Evening Star Newspaper, January 22, 1898, Page 15

Unig oi FELIX ON FASHIONS = Details of the Toilet Discussed by the French Master. STYLISH SPRING SKIRTS AND STAYS Design for a Street Gown of Cadet Blue Cloth. Ses QUERADE COs ed e of The Evening Star. PARIS, January 17, 1998. At the debut of each season the interest- ed observer cannot suppress a slight in- quietude regarding the transformation which Fashion may accomplish In her vari- ous fantasies. Very often in store for u: TUME Special Correspondei he holds a complete change and what is accepted as a novelty one day is rejected as too common the ext, to be reaccepted again directly the mood strikes her. Neverthele: among the nouveautes which the coming spring has engenaered there are some that are sure to implant themselves firmly in feminine favor; there- by gaining a longevity which Fashion's subsequent caprices are not easily able to annihilate. Great interest is manifested in the form of the skirt, which is narrow and tight, and requires absolute perfection in fit. At this point we must call attention to the impor- tant functions of the underskirt, as no gown, however elegant in cut and tasteful in trimming, will prove satisfactory unless the underskirt gives the proper support and foundation. Many of the newest jupons have padded perfumed interlining over the hips and all are male with wires of steel at the back, forming extenders when not worn over small cushions of perfumed wadding. The stays, which are very low and pli- able, confine the waist closely, but throw out the bust and hips with excellent effect. The Madame Pompado: One of our models, “The Madame Pompa- dour,” accentuates the curves of the back and sides, but forms a straight line in front. It is made of black satin at the back, while the bones are daintily incased in striped pompadour brocade silk, which also constitutes the exceedingly chic un- derskirt. The silk on the ivory ground with a stripe of black satin alternating with a garland design of brocaded rosebuds and forget-me-nots, forms the unlined founda- tion of the jupon. The black breadth has inserted steels, narrow and very pliable and graduating in length, the ends of which are held by white silk elastics, the highe: steel extending five inc line, thé other: eq distance of five inches below. gives an elegant exten- sion to the skirt, and. to complete the ef- fect, a full sash of black satin with loops and long wide ends is fastened just below the waist line at the center of the back. This dainty skirt is edged with three point- ed ruffles of black knife-pleated satin. Our second mo¢éel has stays better suited to a fuller figure. They are made of white satin and again match the skirt of white satin with its paddings at the nd back, and is to be worn with rate extender. The pleated and pointed ruffles of white satin are edged with narrow blue velvet ribbon and Valenciennes lace. A Street Gow Our street gown Is designed in strict ac- cordance with the decrees of spring fash‘on It is made cf cadet blue cloth of a light and clinging quality. The skirt is fashion- €d to be worn over hip and back extender, and falls in graceful folds over the founda- tid skirt of cadet blue taffeta. Tne trim- el “Old man, I'm sorry to hear that you and your wife have separated—did any @me come between you?” its of black silk braid, sewn on mble a tunica, the fe:ond row of to rese harrow black silk braid is embellished by an embroidery in black silk. ‘The bodice still hints at the Russian blouse, being full without being baggy. It is made of cadet blue cloth with an inserted vest or agcordeon-pleated white mousse- line de soie over white satin. The collar consists of large tabs of cloth decorated hae ire and forming the epaulettes over the plain leg o’ mutton sleeves. The small Medici collar ‘s filled out by a ruche of pleated mousseline do soie and finishes with a cravat bow of black satin ut the throat. Four decorated tabs also form the basque, which is attached to a handsome belt of blue leather stitched with black satin and closing im front with a buckle of turquoises set in silver. “Harlequin.” Our illustration, which we have’ named “Harlequin,” is appropriate for the time when Prince Carnival holds his Icvees. The skirt consists of soleil p!eated black tarletan over a jining of black satin. The blouse of the same black tarletan is also made up over a tight black satin founda- tion, and the important feature of the gown is the princess overdress, which forms @ es below the waist | short bodice and descends from the waist line in two long pointed tabs on either side, one point finishing with a cluster of black velvet ribbon bows heid by a strass or dia- mond buckle, the other point being decor- | ated with a bunch of black ostrich plumes intertwined with ribbon bows of various | bright and delicate colors. This princess | overskirt is made of large silk carreaux of cifferent colors attached to each other with black velvet ribbon and embroidery. Black velvet ribbon 2nd bows with strass buckles also adorn the drapery of the blouse, while the sleeves consist of an arrangement of | pleated tarletan, black velvet bows and loops and ends of many colored ribbon. A headgear of black velvet is trimmed with velvet bows and strass buckles and black aigrette and plume, and is worn over Yes; her father and mother, three maiden aunts end a grandmother.”—Life. the powdered hair. Eyebrows and iashes are penciled for the occasion, and black court plaster patches are allowed to lend their piquancy to the face. Black or white glace gloves cover the arms to the shoulders. . = en ee et HOUSEHOLD HINTS A rule for the-delicate “puffs” beloved of Philadelphians comes from that city. As they should be eaten as soon as baked, the other courses of the meal must be planned accordingly. Stir two cups of sifted flour into one cup of milk until free from lumps, and strain if there is any doubt about it. Beat two eggs, whites and yolks separate- ly, until very light. Add the yolks and a saltspoon of salt to the flour and milk, and beat again. When very light, fold the whites in carefully, so as not to break the air cells. Fill heated molds or gem pans half full of thie batter and bake in a quick oven. If all these conditions are fulfilled they will at once begin to rise and live up to their name. Serve as soon as done, and serve with foamy sauce. Peanut wafers are delicious. To make them, stir to a cream one-half cup of but- ter and one cupful of sugar; add three- quarters of a cup of milk, two scant cups of flour into which one teaspoonful of bak- ing powder has been sifted, and a tea- spoonful of vanilla. Turn a baking pan up- side down, wipe the bottom very clean, but- ter it and spread the mixture over it, using a knife to make it smooth and even. Spria- kle this thickly with finely chopped or roll- ed peanuts and bake in a moderate oven until brown. As soon as the tin is taken from the oven, cut the cake in squares, lift carefully from the tin and place on the molding board to cool. Keep in tin to pre- serve their crispness. To make ideal buttermilk griddle cakes, beat into a quart of buttermilk one tea- spoonful of soda, a half teaspoonful of sult and flour to make a rather stiff batter. When smooth and light, bake a 1ich brown on the griddle. A common mistake made by many cooks is to add egg to :ancake batters; but, as a rule, cakes made with eggs are never so delicate 2s those thick- ened with flour alone. Do not have the griddie swimming in grease. If you use the iron griddies, a bit of suet or fat pork, tied in a piece of cheesecloth, and quickly wiped over the griddle without leaving an offen- sive trail of fat behind will de quite suffi- cient to keep the cakes from sticking. A simple but excellent addition to the home dinner or Sunday night supper is riced cheese. Into the bottom of a buttered pudding dish put a layer of boiled, or steamed, rice; over it pour white savce to moisten; then add a layer of mild, grated cheese, ‘another layer of rice, then white sauce ‘and cheese, until the dish is full. Cover the top with a layer of buttered crumbs, and bake twenty minutes or half an hour, in a moderate oven. The addition of cheese to the rice, which consists almost exclusively of starch, supplies the lacking nitrogenous element, and makes the dish an almost perfect nutrient. Rice omelet makes a savory addendum to the breakfast bill of fare, which is too apt to become stereotyped. Add to one cupful cold boiled rice four teaspoonfuls of milk, two eggs—whites and yolks beaten sepa- rately—and g half saltspoon of salt. Heat a tablespoonful of butter very hot in a frying pan, then pour in the mixture, cover and bake about ten minutes in a moderate oven until stiff. Double and turn out care- fully on a hot platter. An excellent calves’ foct jelly may be made from the hind knuckle or hock in Place of the fect. Indeed, many give it the preference, thinking it nas a better taste. in making the traditional calves’ foot jelly, considered specially palatable for invalids, one set of feet or “trotters” are allowed to one gallon of water. This heated slowly and simmered gently will give two quarts of jelly. To the large consumption of watercress in the ‘y of London, says a medical authority, may be attributed the high standard of health in that city. Carefully washed and picked over, lightly sprinkled with salt and eaten with thin slices of bread cnd butter, it affords the best possi- ble appetizer for breakfast. White stains on furniture may be re- moved by rubbing with hot milk and tur- pentine, oil and turpentine, or evsa k sene. Dark stains on wood yield to lic acid. To prepare this, fill a bottle full of crystals, and then fill up with water. Keep the bottle labeled and on a high shelf cut of the reach of children. A paint brush added to the housemaid’s stock of weapons in her tuurney with dust will be found most efficacious for routing that enemy from moldings, corners of the window sash and crevices uf the . base- boards. In_sweening a carpet, remember always to sweep with the pile, and not against it. Agate ware is not suitable for frying or for the cooking of fats. ———. A BRIGHT JAPANESE GIRL. She is Earning Her Living in Chi- cago an Stenographer. From the Chicago Tribune. Kitishima Kata Hasc! or, as she Is known to magazine readers, Otana Watan- na, is a yourg Japanese woman, who lives in Chicago and lays claim to three dis- tinctions. She is the only woman of her race to hold a position as a confidential stenographer in a Iccal business house; she is alone in her determination to follow literature as a life work, and at one time in her newspaper career was the only wo- man allowed to be present at the sessions of the British council in Jamaica. Miss Watanrna—the name means the same thing as Hasche in a different Japanese aialect—has had cnough events crowded into her twenty-one-year-old life to fill a two-volume novel. She was born in Yoko- hama, and divided her babyhood and child- hood years between that place and Eng- land. Her family emigrated to Canada, and in Montreal Otana received most of her ed- ucation. She left there when only sixteen to go to the West Indies as correspondent for a Kingston (Jemaica) newspaper. An attack of yellow fever and its after effects caused her return to New York, which place she left to come here. Although Miss Wa- tanna has English blood in her veins, she is distinctively Japanese in her appearance and her mannerisms, and notwithstanding her extreme diffidence of manner she has very spirited und dashing ideas. Just now her plans are in an unsettled condition, while she is hesitating between a strong desire to accompany the Woman’s Klondike Club to the gold fields in the spring and an opportunity to go to Japan as the corre- spondent of a local daily paper. In the meantime she is earning a weekly salary as a stenographer and writing “specials” for newspupers and magazines. To her other accomplishments she adds that of be- ing a skilked linguist. Ae The Once-Precious Cashmeres. Lady Violet Greville writes in the London Graphic: A few pretty old fashions I note with regret as going out; for instance, th> eustom of cashmere snawls. The queen suIl gives these as wedding presents to her favored proteges, but, I fear m2, they are only laid up reverently in lavender, or at best serve to decorate the table they cover. Time was wh2n to wear a cashmere shawl gracefully, to drape its heavy folds round a fine figure, was regarded as the art of a well-torn lady. The Paisiey shawl, the nearest substitute for the cashmere, was the ambition of every prosperous work- girl, and all Balzac’s heroines; when they reached the zenith of successful riches, counted a cashmere shew] of priceless val- ue in their corbeille Ge mariage. Even their monetary equivalent has diminished, and the tribute of cashmere shawls lost mech of its importance. Yet the custom of wearing shawls had its beauty and it® uses. Unlik> the cape, the shawl possessed a veritable warmth and comfort of its own, as the old Irishwoman who pulls her tat- tered apology for a shawl over her head is well aware of. The Empress Eugenie, a genius in dress, was esp2cially fond of the cashmere, and wore hers with grace and distinction. Yet the shawl is gone, and 1 fear will never return. ——- ee Used No Judgment. From the Chicago Post. “Here's an account of a man who has been arrested for stealing plays,” said the man with the paper. “For stealing plays!” exclaimed the man who was smoking, in astonishment. “That's what the paper says.”” “Oh, well, the trouble with him must have been that he didn’t use any judgment. If he had stolen some of the plays I've seen they wouldn't arrest him; they'd give him @ vote of thanks.” Rees STYLISH COSTUME Popularity of Moire Antique for Af- ternoon Wear. SOME DAINTY COLOR COMBINATIONS Unueua! Dress Displays at Several of the Recent Weddings, JEWELS ARE MUCH WORN > Special Correpondence of The Evening Star. (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) W YORK, January 21, 1598. OOKING OVER some good gowns, ately landed,” I was surprised, in spite of previous knowledge, at the popularity of moire antique for dressy afternoon wear. Heavy silks, with Body ‘to them, are what''a majority of well-dressed women have pinned their affections to. These silks are required to be of solfd color, black by preference ‘and. moire antique very especially. Perhaps wine color ranks next to black; the old-fashidned shade, old enough to belong to the days “when blue was blue,” as a woman said despairingly the other day, “and nobody’ asked whether you meant ciel or peacock or powder or which one of twenty 6ther‘kinds.” Wine-colored silk can be had figured; few other silks in daylight tints can. “My Gear, they are not worn," @ devoted dress- maker remarked the Uther Yay in a that- settles-It tone. Of coatse hot. How can you figure goods if, you embroider and flounce them? Even in fashions there is a certain hanging together of things. Black silk, relieved at throat and waist by any becoming bright color and made to glisten like the sun rays by a jeweled blouse front; dark blue slik brightened by collar and sash of pale blue velvet, wine color set off by blue, or dark green con- trasting with straw color or pale gree! all these are accepted and desirable com- binations for calling or carriage dresses or for afternoon receptions. At a Musicale. At the house of a ceriain society leader, who gives musical afternoons and calls them, after the Freneh manner, matinees, there was an immense crowd yesterday. ‘The program was an excellent one and the dining room furnished a pleasant retreat to those who tired of the dulcet sounds of Fano or voice. The guest of the after- noon, a young French countess, was elab- orately dressed in pale gray silk and made the millinery hit of the occasion. Her gown was cut in the princess mode and was laced up the back,. where it was tight- fitting. In front it was draped in loose folds across the bust, the drapery being fixed at the left-han@ side by a knot of er- mine and white satia ribbon. A narrow band of ermine edged the bottom of the skirt and also the yoke of the bodice, where it outlined a guimpe of white lace over white satin. The tab-like epaulettes were also of ermine, as were the points of the long sleeves. A pale gray velvet toque with sweeping white plumes was the fitting accompaniment of this costume. Second in point of the attention it at- tracted, perhaps quite ‘as beautiful, was < costume of powder-blue cloth, embroldered with fluted velvet in two shades of darker Llue and hemmed with chinchilla. The smart Robespierre coat “of the same mate- rial yas held in with a jeweled belt of tea- rose satin antique; it had revers of the satin gathered near the large chinchilla collar, with kerchief ends run in and out of the two straps that fastened the coat across the front, the straps themselves be- ing held by old French enamel buttons, set in paste. ‘The white silk blouse was trim- med with fine embroidery and;Breton lace, and was fastened at the side with small paste and turquoise buttons. A chinchilla toque, on which was perched a tropical bird with brilliant blue plumage, finished this toilet. Rage for Jewels. At one or two of the fasnionable restau- rants, both at dinner time and when the theaters close, you have a chance of in- specting the best modes in the city for cer- tain festive uses. At @ corner table at one such resort the ot! night one of the dozen women who spend fue most money on clothes of all the society people of the eest was to be seen in a ich and stately black velvet robe, the®entird bodice studded with diamonds. Brilliants were clustered closely below the waist and, made a broad stripe of light down every Seam. A young married Iady who sat at the same table wore u princess gown of a deli- cate silver gray. moi riale, trimmed with sable, and hav! of white lace ovex.w: light blue ribbon aba ing to be much ¢ studded with opals ‘Two orsthree wi 58 have been made memora side the immediate f; displays. At one thi ia. She had a eck, as is com- and this was nds. ring the week to circles out- unusual dress of the bride wore a splendid cds wine-colored Velvet, the tablier was richly or- namented with gu! embroidered with gold and sfiver, chenille in shades of" + the tight bodice was also embi and had epaulettes and jabot of white lace ‘worked with dia- monds. A small capote completed the dress, with crown of raised gold and white aigrettc and feathers, sf Tn Blaelc \Sitic. The mother of the bridegroom was in ‘Mack silk, with half low blouse and upper skirt cut out: in " set off with flower embroidety-‘fa: multicolor shades. The underskirt was black moire. Belt, long ruched sléeves.and hanging sash ends as with fine | with black tips and with black velvet un- der the brim. . Among the guests was a_ beautiful amethyst-tinted peau-de-soie gown, ar- ranged with black and emerald embroi- dery, and with old Brussels lace on both skirt aud bodice. A becoming velvet toque of the same shade as the gown was trim- med with white ostrich feathers and shad- ed chrysanthemums. To enhance this costume was a handsome emerald green velvet and ermine cane, draped with lace. 1 have seen a.number of pretty mat- inee costumes within a few days, promi- nent amcrg them one of pansy purple cloth, with square yoke, sleeves, basque and tablier in white lace. The white lisse blouse of this dress had its fellness caught up with a row of large pearls, so as to expand in the middle into a double jabot. At the waist was a sash of Roman rib- bon. In the hair, when the hat came off as the curtain rose, appeared a cabbage bow of pale yellow silk. Stylish Frocks. Other interesting frocks were: Item—A blue-gray cloth dress, the bodice braided in black and finished with white satin pipings. The small collar, cuffs and plas- tron were of tucked white satin, and the finishing touches were given by a jeweled kelt and some large siraw buttons. Item—A black cloth skirt, braided from top to bottom with narrow black braid- ings set horizontally; this with a Russian vicuse of dark-red velvet banded. perpen: dicularly with sable, fastened with large paste buttons and belted with gold; these with a black velvet toque, trimmed with sable teils. Item—A dress of dark green cloth with trimmings of chinchilla and a green vel- vet toque decked with primroses. Item—A slate-gray cloth dress with plain skirt and a tight-fitting coat bodice made notable by the arrangement of black vel- t worked with a trellis design in fine silk braid which did duty as trimming. ELLEN OSBORN. —— The Philosophy of Color. From the Philadelphia Ledger. Some one, associating colors with sounds, describes scarlet as resembling the «.are of a trumpet, and the idea is by no means in- apt. The trumpet is effective at a distance, perhaps cheerful and inspiriting, but heard near, startling, disturbing, and, if constant- ly repeated, distressing to the nerves, as red is to the eyes when persistently before them. Therefore, all things considered, it is really best to take thought regarding the matter, when tempted to purchase a fash- fonable red coat, cape or gown, and to con- sider whether or not you will be likely to irritate your friends and tire your own op- tics by the continued contemplation of an unlucky purchase. Above all, never think to tone ddwn aggressive red by combining it with black, for it will only serve to bring the vivid color into greater prominence. For certain uses a red house gown is most ‘desirable, and, trimmed with black velvet, it may not be toned or subdued, but it cer- tainly proves a most becoming dress to al- most any type of woman of suitable years who dons it. It looks warm and bright and cheerful on cold, gray winter days, but for general wear or hard wear, on any one but a child, it is not admirable, however fash- jonable it may be. Exception must of course be made for some of the handsome “dress” toilets and waists in reds of vari- ous rich tones designed for special evening wear, —_—+e+______ Danger in Veils. From the New Yerk Tribune. A service has been done to women gen- erally by Dr. G A. Wood of Chicago, in tests made by him with systematic care to determine the danger, if any, in the wear- ing of veils. For this purpose he selected a dozen typical specimens of the article and applied the ordinary tests of ability to read while wearing them; and these tests showed that every description of veil af- fects more or less the ability to see dis- tinctly, both in the distance and near at hand, the most objectionable being the dot- ted sort. Other things being equal, vision is interfered with in direct proportion to the number of meshes per square inch, and the texture of the material also plays an important part in the matter. Thus, when the sides of the mesh are single, compact threads, the eye is much less embarrassed than when double threads are used, th» least objectionable veil, on the whole, be- ing that which is without dots, sprays or other figures, but with large and regular meshes made with single and compact threads. Dr.” Wood pertinently remarks that while eye troubles do not necessarily result from wearing veils—for the healthy eye is as able as any other part of the body to resist legitimate strain—weak eyes are injured by them. A Ridiculeus Fashion Craze. From Harper's Bazar. The fashion of wearing aigrettes and feathers in the hair in the evening has be- come such a “craze” that some of the girls are rebelling against it. The are at Jast opening their eyes to the fact that a fash- fon which is carried to such an extreme ceases to be an attractive one, in the first place, and, in the second, that the slaugh- ter of birds must be something terrible to supply the demand. To give some exam- and corsage | ‘her curls, and one on each side. ples of what is being done in the way of killing birds, at a large ball the other even- ing one girl wore as ornaments (fancy call- ing them ornaments!) three blackoirds, swith spread wings, one in front nestling on Another girl wore a large and entire bird of para- dise, with sweeping tail, at ong side of her thead; and stilt another had, dfrectly’ on top ‘of her head, a tremendous marabout atgrette, big enough for a hearse plume, in black and white. -If she had only known how unbecoming it was! But it is the fashion, you know! oo _____. More Royal Wheelers. From the London Mall. The ranks of the women bicyclists abroad have recently been added to by no fewer than thre@ royal personages, one of whom is the Empress of Russia, who learned to ride during a visit to Darmstadt. The Princess Leopold of Bavaria, the eldest. daughter of the Emp2ror of Austria, has taken to the wheel on the advice of ‘her physician, and the Princess Frederick Au- ‘gustus of Saxony is now engaged in’ her first efforts, the King and Que2n of Saxony Laving, after some persuasion, their ion, given were of black meusseline de sole. A tuft | €ugust permission to their royal daughter of roses was worn on the right shoulder. ‘The four bridesmaids wore skirts of pale roce-pink moire velour, with: bodices of Holland has been ot icked chiffon and Jong chiffon. sashes. ‘Their hats were of pink velvet, trimmed to cycle. But the tale that has been going the rounds with regard to. the young Qu2en: contradicted. young majesty, it is cycling for women. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN and Early Spring. Re a Little Ahead of the Times —Materials and Colors, Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, Jafuary 20, 1898. No sooner nas the rush of the holidays subsided than the shops bring forth the new linens and cottons, in order that the thrisiy woman who takes time by the fore- lock may begin the summer gowns which are to be of home manufacture. As soon as she has replenished her household linens the up-to-date woman turns her attention to the spring sewing. The new shirt waists appeared this week, and do not look as summery and unsea- sonable as they might were it not for the fact that nearly every woman has worn cotton shirt waists, more or less, during the winter months, protecting herself from pessible colds by a tight-fitting woolen waist under the cotton. Nothing is fresher <nd more trim-looking for a woman who has duties to attend to about the house than a clean cotton waist, be it summer or winter. Cotton waists are especially con- venient also when one is to be out all day, with a thick cloth coat and skirt. The coat clips easily over the cotton, and there is no bulky, overdressed feeling to contend with, although it is quite as warm with the little weolen underwaist just mentioned. Of course, thestyles for a whole summer of shirt waists can hardly be said to be de- termined with positive accuracy. But those now on sale are only at the most exclusive shcps, and it is certain that all the large wholesale -houses have already manufac- tured the cotton waists in which so large a number of American women spend their visible summer hours, that we almost e withovt fear of contradiction that ypical” American garment has been ced, if the “typical” novel has not. For Slender Women. One thing is certain in the new garments. They are all on the side of slender women. Everything is bayadere. Women who have outgrown the time when stripes going rcund them like those on the coat of a cenvict are beconing had best foreswear shirt waists, in the latest materials at lecst. Ribbed cottons running round and round, tucks large and small, all horizon- tal, pin stripes pursuing the same dizzy circle, all point to the triumph of tae wo- man who has already had everything her way this winter with the prevalent Russian bicuse. The sleeves are quite disappointing. One had almost looked for the return cf the next-to-nothing fullness at: the top, such as we had when shirt waists first came into vogue and only a few very smart and exclusive people wore them. But the sleeves are rather large as compared with the latest models of bodices from Paris. There is no drooping fullness, of cours but they are gathered at the top with ma- terial enough to keep them standing out there, and they do not touch the arm an: where. The cuffs are straight and gen- erally of the material of the waist.~The yckes are made without points in the back, simply for a change., for it is not as pretty as last summer's two-pointed effect. The collars are all high and do not turn over at all, as did those of last summer. They meet in the front, which means that they will be very warm when the mercury mounts, and will wilt rapidly. A few of the collars have a linen cord running about them to relieve their plainness. All the new collars call for a narrow satin tie. But it is probable that many of the waists will be worn with the separate stocks of satin, silk, ete., which are so becoming and so popular, although yet new. Of Generous Dimensions. The encifcling stripes take away necessity for making the waists as f the reign of the Russian blouse would led one to suppose they would be when first they appeared. They are of generous dimensions, however, and are a little lon- ger from the collar to the waist than is absolutely necessary for a snug fit. They really do droop slightly, but this must be said with reserve, for they are not bloused, and one would not wish to be the innocent means of spreading such an idea. The tucks above referred to are both wide and narrow. ‘The narrow ones some- times reach from wrist to shoulder on the sleeves and cover the waist from the neck to within a few inches of the waist line. These tucks are about half or quarter of an inch apart, and are a boon to tzll, slender women, ‘but a snare to the vi majority who only reach the height ¢ Rosalind. The wile tucks are even more trying. Either four or five, made like box pleats, are put on the frcnt of a waist, and take up a great part of it. There is an element of frivolity in the the M as maid specie a | Bie Retin ek Heer | at tor walking.” white pique shirt waists. Many of them are made with collars and cuffs of white embroidery and fasten on the right side. with a ruffle of white embroidery conce ing the buttons. Although pique is always associated with severe outlines, this de- parture from its usual tailor-made effect is rather fetching. The Favorite Materia So far none of the flimsy lawns, mulls, ete., have made thelr appearance in shirt waist domain, and it would be a blessing if they would confine themsclves to dainty little gowns and leave alone the field be- longing to heavier cottons, which are to be worn with cheviot, flannel or white duck skirts, But when summer appears in her splendor no doubt the very thin materials will be vsed for everything, al- though it is doubtful whether they will be-as popular for sitirt waist manufac- ture as they were last year. Pin stripes of green and white, or greet and lilac, watermelon or blush pink, pale and ¢eep blues, and many smart effects in white and ecru are the colors most used so far. The prices are prohibitive, but those of us who are to be lucky enough te seck Florida during the next month or so cannot stop at that. For in that de- lightful clime, where winter is forgotten, one must have shirt waists to wear during the middle of the day at least. And by March they will be needed all day. But ss lucky mortals who expect to stay in this region of alternating fog and snow can srap their fingers at the great cost of the “‘irst” importatiors. Get a patte:n Which yeu know to be absolutely correc’ Engage a seamstress who can follow that patiern implicitly, even though she be slow and Geliberate, and then buy shict waist lengths from the exquisite new cot- tons which are a scurce of envy to every beholder as soon as January arrives. Re- member during Lent that “charity be- gins at home,” sew a few days each week for yourself, and the first warm days cf May will find you serene and independent in the consciousne:s of being somewhat ahead of the times. MABEL BOYD. —_——. -—_ A Hint. From Harper's Barar. chancel, 5 church rolls do not show that Mrs. AfeKin- ley was a member of Christ Church. Young housewives may depend on Cleveland’s baking powder. It does the work just right every, time. «have used Cleveland's bak- ing powder over 25 years—it aever disappoints.” — Mrs. B.F, WAS FAMOUS IN ITS. DAY Brooke Hall Seminary, Where Mre. McKinley Went to School. Once a dent There. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. MEDIA, Pa., January 19, 1808. » ‘The good folk of Media, the county seat of Delaware county, Pa., pride themselves on the fact that the wife of the President of the United States was once a school girl in their village. Media is buflt on an elevation of nearly 500 feet above the level of the Delaware river, which is about seven miles disiznt, and has a population variously estimated by the inhabitants of from 2,000 to 4,000. It is a desirable place for schooling, and there are educational institutions in the village that are known throughout the country. Another thing that t average Media citizen prides himself cn and de- lights in telling strangers abovt is the fact that there has never been a saioon in the place. More than thirty years ago Mrs. William McKinley was a student at Brooke Hall Seminary, Media. She was then Ida Sax- ton, and the thought of some day becom- ing the first lady of the land had proba- bly never entered her head. At that (ime the young man destined to be President of the United States and the idol of her af- fections had returned to his home in the little town of Poland, Ohio, and was be- ginning the study of the law and fitting himself for the life that has been such an illustrious contribution to American his- tory. Ida Saxton was then a girl of eigh- teen. Brooke Hall was at that time and for Many years after one of the best-known schools for girls. Its reputation extended to every state in the Union, and the roil contained the names of students’ not only from the United States, but frem foreign ccintres. Miss Eastman, the principal for more than a third of a century, died a few years ago. An effcrt was made to centinue the work of the school, but the interest lagged, and today the stztely old building is used as a boarding house. Feonilics from New York and Philadelphia spend the summer there. A more beautiful place for a school would be, indeed, hard to find. The grounds are a veritable Arcadia. If they were pleasant thirty years ago they are doubly so now. Then ‘the trees were young and the branches gave little shade. The Brooke Hall grounds embrace about eight acres, and extend from Wastington street, one of the main residence thoroughfares of he berough, to the Pennsylva railroad track uth. Brooke Hall, which was named after H. Jones Brooke, the founder of Media, is on the summit of the grounds, and’ is of stone with a pebble-dash covering. It i a plain building of three stories, with a big, wide porch, after the southern planta- tion style, extending along the scuth and east sides. The south porch is 110 feet song, and was intended as a place for ex- ercise when the weather was unfavorable. It was along this roomy old piazza that Mrs. McKinley, as a school giri, marched with her companions. There was a large school room on the first flcor, opening off from which was a large play room, where the girls used to dance on Wednesday and Friday rights. There were also on this floor rooms for recitations and practice. East of the hall- Way were the parlor, Nbrary and a number of smaller rooms. The second and third ficors were divided mainly into bed rooms. There were also a few recitation rooms and zooms for piano practice. A few unim- portant changes have been made in the interior, otherwise everythirg looks as it Gid_a score and ten years ago. Through the southeast corner of the grounds there runs a little rivulet. Span- ning this and leading to the railroad sta- tion is a rustic foot bridge. Down a scme- what steep embankment, at the rear of the seminary, a winding path leads to the old spring house, where pans of milk were kept for cooling. ‘On the walls with’n are to be found still undimmed the names of many former students at Brooke Hall. Among them are the names of Ida Saxton and Mary B. Saxton, her sister. Media a third of a century ago was a small village. The population was less than a thousand. In favorable weather the students took a walk every day under the chaperonage of Miss Hettie E. Gault. Usu- ally they marched around the court houre square, and sometimes out Washingion street ast. Miss Gault still lives in Media, and she is not forgotten by her old pupil now in the White House. She is an avow- ed candidate for the Media post office, and has the indorsement of Mrs. McKinley, which may not be devoid of influence with the administration. Among the girls who attended Brooke Hall at different times was the present Mrs. John R. McLean of this city. Kate Chase, caughter of Chief Justice Salmon P. Chase, and who married Gov. Sprague of Rhede Island, was also a student at Brooke Hall. So were the wives of Maj. Gen. Wheaton and Maj. Gen. John Brooke and former Representative John Findlay of Baltimore. A Gaughter of Gen. Daniel Sickles of New York was a Brooke Hall girl James MeKniff, the borough marshal of Media, was the chore boy about Brooke Hall during the time Mrs. McKinley was there, and he remembers her well as a school girl. Christ Church, where Mrs. McKinley worshiped while at Brooke Hall, is a stone edifice of pleasing archiiec:ure, the walls of which are clad with ivy. With the exception of a slight alteration in the he interior is ul ‘The Catherine of Russia’s Musical Watch, From the London Sun. ; The Emperor Napoleon I had a watch which wound itself by means of a weighted lever, which at every, step which his maj-