Evening Star Newspaper, January 1, 1898, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 1, 1898-24 PAGES. Comemer to Fler Majesty. the Ques cf Ital. Her Majesty, Queen Maza Dona Pia, Her Imperial Highness, Countemd Ea ‘The Princeses of Bulgaria, Prncenes Levaneft, Radaiew th and Orelinuky, of the Coart of Russia STUDIES IN STYLES] Forerunners of Spring to Be Seen on | the Riviera. NODEL GOWN DESIGNED BY FELIX All Signs Point to the Coming of the Draped Skirt. THE BOLERO TO THE FORE pee ge enee of The PARIS, Dec like a preity rhead great dashe heavily on the asphalt pave- boulevard: hilly blasts | the corners and the wind leafless tree teps of t it to ¥ ly for sp bird of pa mier climes and turn: face to her favorite haunt, th Paris, the pearl of the Mediter- Itiviera, where all i ich has undergone quite a | year, is no longer made ; tal and cut in one and but while ng is tight vow the ¢ is allowed} is. This spring and sum- | nd | toward r Is of hight : aun's yell 1 sur Our model is consistent with all most ap- proved nov-lties of the oming season, and is} 2 on the Riviera by a Russian ar ‘ose blende beauty is the cyno- Ss, as it has been in ety this win tl of this model gown fs a very | licht hell col- | ndmirirg ey tik of the same deli- is plain but for th corate the top, and ¢ nder figure and the over- of heliotrope silk nd back, nd is very h shirred nun’s veii- bodice nt HOW TO CHOUSE GLOVES. And the More Important Matter of How to Wear Them. From the Philadelphia Record. he Fre w s idea of dress is, of cae tion in all its é if must practice economy negleets her shoes and her lov gloves are proverbial. She chooses them with art, she puts them curries them with art, and em with art. puts on her gloves in the them #s carefully as She never would f putting on her or in a street car, or of squeez- ¢ her hands Into gloves several si small and buttoning them with a h This would be censidered a great oves rudely Il that the gloves ow kid on w pudgy poetic nothing more bag. Pe hands ou jarger than tight gloves always m 1 and iner in size by F injudicious treatment. after choosing gloves—nice, for street r and others rin fit for ng and for even- there ts a wa to put them on. is anything that mars a woman's it is a glove with ine seams d all the fingers awr. ‘The first trying on of a glove is the most important, because this gives the glove its which are ase set First shake some powder into each finger glove. Then place your el- bow table, with the hand prigh mb extended toward the thi body of the d after seeing slove is straight with the line glove over that each finger, coax each finger into th of the glove. Be sure in the mean- that the stitching on the back of the Klove thumb, and look once again to is also straight. Now insert the if the ®eams are all straight. If not, pull the glove off and begin again. The seam at th tip of the thumb should be in line with the Taiddle of the thumb nail. Smocth the wrist neatly and fasten the second button before the top one, for then the top one Will not suddenly burst off. A man who was a real dandy of the old School declared that women should put oa their gloves, the first time, in not less than three-quarters of an hour. } skirt. | chronicles of the leading newspape g. The folds thus formed are divided by of narrew velvet ribbon several ades darker than the veiling, and each rew of ribbon ends with a small strass a FI ickle at the point Ke of jetted black A large strass buckle also gathers all the lower ends of ribbon at the front of the waist. ‘The tight silk e is covered with shir- red heliotrope nun's velling, and is capped at the shoulder by an arrangement of heito- trope velvet of the same shade as the rib- ben, Folded heliotrope veiling also forms the standing collar, which finishes in a neck ruche at the back. The bodice is quite tight wrinkled veiling bein bon decoration below the yoke, and the lower point is covered with a Tong, wide sh of k heliotrope velvet lined with silk. at the back, the put on without rib- Various Combinations. this gown will admit of various as black and white, or gray nd vel- hion- Of ex combing ir: ion: in two shades, or bluette with yoke vet trimmings of one of the able shades of red or nt colors for the y), anteuil (helte (blue), Ophelia royal (dark blu treme shades of uck and white is ac much in vogue. Phe i taine nes many fi yellow. ing are rope), castor (purple), pourpre cine and Ves- dy, mbination again se effects will be re- Ing season, but the full- tined the front only, 1 to back will be smoothly gathe din. weman discovers a garment which invarlably lends grace and youthful- ness to the figure she is loath to discard it is the seeret of the bolero’s longevity. ny new costumes show this little jacket in preference to the Russian blous ch looks stylish on a favored few, but is unbe- coming to mo: A Dressy Costu A very dressy costume is of black The skirt is very narrow eC. satin. and tight and well Five rows of wide, tucks satin decorate the hem, and above th tucks is placed a wide band of white velvet richly embroid- ered with jet and gold beads and sequins. The blouse bodice of black satin is loose and full in front, and border of white velvet embroidered like the band on the This bolero is quite long at the back and rounded in front, ending in two points which meet over the chest and are conn ed by a large rosette of black velvet with a ie of a button set with diamonc eut round at the neck, form- of the fulled black satin’ of the ith a tiny ruche of pulled over the hips. of overlapping ined The sleeves consist y of wide over- lapping of black satin on a tight s becoming looser at the tep so as to form a slignt fullness at the upper arms and shoulde The black satin standing collar ts headed by a black mous- seline ruche. With this costume is worn a little toque of white velvet embroidered with jet and sequin: nd surrounded by a full ruche of black mousseline de sol s plumes stand high on one fasiencd with a diamond ag (E. FELIX, Paris.) RITY IN FRANC clety Women Wh Act as Nurses in Hospitals. From the Century. adies of the highest rank, who seem the most engrossed by frivolous pleasures, will perform heroic acts of charity in the most ‘The Intirmary for Can- ses, containing the most fear- nd loathsome examples of that r sive mala is regularly attended by ladies of rank, who have their fixed deys of duty, when, each in turn, they dress the wounds with their own hands. The Duche d'Uzes, one of the best-known leader fashion, unexpected mann cerous Dis ful of whose splendid festivities fill the is one of the most assiduous, showing an adroit- ness in the exercise of her charitable func- tions which induces her care to be particu- larly desired by the patients. I know great families who, when residing in their country hou » have regular days in the week when the daughters of the family dress wounds and sores among the surrounding peasantry. The mothers in such families repress energetically any morbid sensibility which might interfere with such duties. “What will you be fit for in after life Jf you cannot command your feelings?” I have heard said by a venerable marquise, who looked as if she had step- ped down from the frame of one of the pictures in her chateau. I may quote an- other instance of a lady in a less high po- sition, who took in a wretched beggar child on a cold, wintry night, performing ma- ternal offices as regacds removing the con- sequences of his neglected condition, which were so repulsive that her physical strength gave way and she was taken violently ill in consequence. On my praising her charity, she exclaimed almost indignantly: “What! when our Lord washed the feet of His dis- ciples, you would have me shrink from doing what fs necessary for a poor, wretch- ed child, merely through a feeling of dis- gust.” I said nothing, but could not help think- ing how many would have left the care to others. It must be acknowledged, however, that by the side of acts of heroic charity there is, saving exceptions, a great lack of that genial kindness which shows itself to equals in any trouble by many little friendly at- tentions in England and America—the “cup of cold water” of the gospel, HOUSEHOLD HINTS: The Rage Just Now is All for Turk- ish Rooms, CONSTITUTIONALS FOR YOUNG BABIES A Dainty Dessert That Can Be Made in the Chafing Dish. RECIPE FOR MULLED WINE Written for The Evening Star. The growing predilection for “Turkish rooms" or “Turkish corners” is evidenced by the phenomena: sale of Turkish and In- dian rugs, portieres, brasses and curios of all sorts. Many of the larger department he are now making a specialty of the urnishings appropriate for these, while one enterprising firm in building a modern mod- el flat and furnishing {t throughout for the edification of its customers, dispensed with Kitchen, bath room, nursery or sewing roora, but gave over one of its seven rooms to tie popular craze. The divan, which 1s the chief feature of one of these rooms, is usually built against the wall and is spe- cially effective when made in a corner ex- tending an equal length down each side. ‘This can be wade at home by any man who in wield a hammer. It should stand fif- icen inches from the flogr befcre the cush- icn is put on. On the cushion goes a Kus Ghilene or Bagdad portiere, while a pile of downy pillows covered with oriental fab- ries or orlental effects, makes it a luxurious unging place. On the wall behind ihe divan and for a canopy over it, there must be eastern hengings; the gay, soft silks of Broussa, a Pi n scarf, a bit of cash- mere from India, muslin from Bengal, a silken veil, a gossamer scarf, anything and everything quaint and curious, while be- neath the overhanging draperies an orien- tal lamp shines dreamily through colored glass. On the walls are Persian fans, gay with peacock feathers and glowing beetles’ wings, caftans, turbans and fezzes, while a formidable arsenal of weapons, ivory- hardled Yata ans, Damascene blades, shining scimitars, Albanian pistols, Circ sian mai! or Mongol helmets, bring with them visions not altogether conducive to repose. On the floor are rugs, Carabagh, hirvan, lustrous Daghestan or soft Bok- aras, while en inlaid Koran stand and the lovely Cairo tables, one fitted up with a coffee service and the other with a Bohe- mian narghile, with smoking tri and tongs of Benares or Maradabad brass, com- pletes a picture which may be enlarged up- on or diminished according to taste or tne length of the pu In one of the helpful lectures recently de- Nvered by a skilled physician to mothers, this sensible advice was given regarding battles’ “constitutionals:” Babies bern in fall or winter should not go out regularly until five months old, and not then if the temperature is 20 degrees or below, or if a strong wind is blowing. In preparing to go out the nurse should get all ready first and then the chiid, in order that it may not have to wait in the house with its heavy wraps on. In wrapping the baby re- member that children do not resist cold as Well as older people, and that the harden- ing process is only suitable for the most robust. ent clothing is suicidal, It f the body that every living only a certain amount of fore spend on the heat of the body, by to it has the ¢ tion, brain and heart look afte! pad lothing should be warm and loose to t in developing natural proportions contours. When the weather ts suitable bables over tive months old should go out twice but before that they can usually Ket quite € on the bed When hi should not ercise enough by laying them and letting them kK. the creeping age he to go on the floor in nd baby-jumpers are not to be s their use tends to distortion and twists the legs, besides, ehild in learning ‘to. wal > child's clothing should be uniformly ributed over the entire body—the un- clothing covering arms and legs both commended, of the spine hindering the summer and winter, though the weight changed according to temperature. The seml-tropical di . however, may 1 #1 exception, as then the child may be al- lowed to go back to nature. Cream chocolate is a dainty dessert quite fit to t before a king,” and one that is always su’ of suce made in the chaf- ing dish If instructions are accurately fol- wed. Before beginning, have everything at hand, as delays are dangerous. The requisites are two squares unsweetened chocolat four rounded _ tablespoonfuls sranulated sugar, four tablespoonfuls hot water; Itspoon of salt; one saltspoon vanilla or cinnamon, two whole exes or yolks of four (whites and yolks beaten separately), one-half cup of cream, one- quarter cup of milk. Cook the ‘sugar, chocolate and water to a smooth shiny paste, without the hot water basin, letting it boll hard. Watch carefully that’ it does not scorch. Add one-half cupful of cream minus one tablespoonful, which should 1 added to the eggs to prevent their curd- lng, and one-quarter cup of milk, and stir until it boils. r the hot water pan and add th carefully, yolks first, stirring very, it thicken: fold the whites in lightly and gently, and cook over the hot er pan ten minutes or longer until spongy. Serve hot or cold with whipped cream, sprinkling powdered Sugar over the top, In an nt cook book yelept “The New Experienced slish Housekeep- er, for the Use and Euse of Ladies, Housekeepe Cooks, — ete.,”" we find among the “pretty shaws” of “ye olden time, directions of how to mak “Take,” says Mistres: is depicted in the front august mien, dre: ance and propri ladies of Cranford, and egg: little tiny kick the appetizin ‘A Mouse-trap. h Martin, who piece as a lady of d with the chaste ele. y that distinguished the “take a pint of cream prepared as if for custards to put into cups; fill your dish and have ready some fine raisins, stoned, or dried cherries. Stick these into the custard and have ready some clear barley sugar (as none else will do); set it by the fire till it dissolves, then draw it out into lengths and cross it, some of it as small as a thread; let the custard be cold in the dish before this is put on. Garnish as you please.” Mulled wine, that favorite bedtime drink of our grandmothers, taken to ward off in- cipient colds, is again in order when com- ing in chilled trom exposure. It 1s also a most efficacious stimulant. Put into an earthen bowl (do not use tin on account of the acid) three cloves, one inch of stick cinnamon and a grating of nutmeg. Cover, stand In a pan of hot water, and simmer for ten minutes, not allowing it to boil. Add one-half cupful of claret and serve at once, sweetened or not, as desired. This may be varied and made more nutritious by heat- Ing the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and the yolk to a cream, adding one table- spoonful of sugar and’ pouring into the wine. In some cases cloves are prohibited, although the best German recipes call for oil of lemon and cloves. If the fat begins to foam in cooking cro- quets, fishballs or doughnuts, it is a sign that the temperature fs too low. Stop ie frying for a few moments, and pull the kettle to the front of the range until the proper temperature is reached. When the fat begins to smoke, drop in a bit of bread. If it browns while you count sixty with the ticking of the clock it is hot enough for doughnuts and potatoes; but for croquets, oysters and fishballs, it should be hot oneal to brown the bread while counting orty. In frying croquets, roll In bread crumbs; but in baked craquets, roll the last time in well-buttered erumbs. One of the latest useful additions to the carver’s equipment are light, portable carv- ing tables, which can be brought to the carver’s side when the roast comes in, and be carried away when the serving is com- pleted. Although graceful in appearance, a sliding leaf coming from beneath makes surface sufficient to hold both the platter and the pile of plates. All beans and leguminous vegetables should be cooked with the cover half off the stew pan in order to be digestible, FOR THEATER WEAR Costumes Are More Dressy and in Brighter Colors. BIG HATS REGARDED AS BAD FORM Dainty Silk Blouses in Combina- tion With Plain Skirts. See BONNEDS AND WREATHS (Copyright, 1897, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, December 30, 1897. HEATER DRESS IS being modified in op- posite ways. In cer- tain parts of certain New York houses the obligation to remoy one's hat ts recog- nized almost as gen- erally as it $s in all London theaters, and there yesults a near- er iupproach to the English mode of at- tire; that is to s: the more claborate ungement of the hair produces, by sym- pathetic action, a richfr att more showy bodice and a more brilliant display of Jew The time is not yet, pear when the orchestra chairs of any New, York theater will offer the dazzling’ parade of a hight class London show, Where full evening sof the costly ayd. magnificent sort re considered appropriate only for box roat the grand op is required by rhoicer seats of the bale iting of the hat ny; but the dis- st the trend of On the other hand, the fact that at the theater one produces one’s effect seated is leading the economically minded section of the public to do away to a con: ent with the playhouse dress a plete costume and to substitute the the: blouse, which can be worn with a skirt not fresh enough to fear dusty aisles and crowded passages, Roth these departures tend to the embel- lishment of the the: If one affords nothing new but « blouse. noblesse oblige it be @ benutiful blouse of f stuffs and radiant in color. So that, all, the two modifications contradict ¢ other with less violence than might have heen supposed. The people who are spend- ing more money and the people who are ding less money than formerly unite in paring more brilliant cyening colors, and they group, as seated, into more effective pictures, Abating a Nuisance. I do not mean to say that the hat ques- tion is settled; but at the b ew York theaters the ha pn So consid- erably abated that the big hat joke needs revamping, it should be prought out in a new and up-to-date edition, A majority of women occupying seats at good houses retain their hats until th curtain ri it is customary then to re- meve the hat and place it cn the lap; this is inconvenient. ‘Tne women who wear the digg hats are, unfortunately, the most apt to keep them en ut public sentiment against the hat has gained so much ground that the woman who, being requested to bare her head, refuses to do so must be an exceptionally bold and steadfast spirit. Women who wi spect and headgear ter very pretty paths of flowers. Of course, there is always the theater bonnet, but the flower wreath 1s at once newer and srraller. To arrange the hair for this coration, bring the knot up to the d, then twist about it a oms of the most becomin; : few extra ones in the most telling spot at the side. If flowers are worn on the corsage they must be of the same kind. Jeweled Dresses. The theater dress is jeweled. Beads, tin- scl, mock and real gems are worn every- where, but show to especial advantage in the glare of the play house. Tor full dress, box wear, net gowns, glittering from neck to heel with beads, are much used. I noticed two last evening. One was black net, covered with trailing vines in jet and gold; the other was white net, draped over white silk and incrusted with gold in scroll designs on skirt and bodice. Pink-tipped white roses were fastened to corsage and hair. ¢ ¥ For orchestra wear, the dress must be cut high, but must be smart enough to match the fashions and passions, the satire and attire, the wit, Worth and women that make up the modernisociety play. Some of the most dressy frogks are of deli- cate silks or handsome,.brogades em)r3id- cred with chenille in jewel flower pat- terns. Others are trimmed ‘4&th fine,- flat silk braid in white or gold, pat on in elab- borate embroidery patterns" and studded with jewels. Velvet dressds are treated with heavy embroideriés in floral scallops. The handsomest clot: resses for theater wear have guimpes and sleeves in heavy lace outlined with chenille,’or they have insertions of yellow or cream white silk to form cne side of the waist with decora- {long of jeweled braid.’ & In Light “Gray. A very light gray suede cleth dress was worn on a recent occasionby a woman well known in New Ydrk society. It was crossed from bust to hips with a trellis of gray and silver braid, and had a coat with square revers showing a tucked front of fuchsia-colored velvet The theater blouse, as I have hinted al- ready, is one of the most important items in the wardrobe of a woman who has to look smart on comparatively little money. With one skirt of good cut and in decent condition, two or three blouses give a variety of attracilve theater toilets. The newest styles for a comparatively simple blouse is glace silk or Liberty satin made with groups of fine box plaits up and down the front; in the spaces between the plaits are set frills or puffs of chiffon. Another notion is to cover the front of the blouse with a check or trellis pattern, carried out either in a lace insertion edged with baby ribbon or in groups of tucks. The blouse which keeps up with the ex- tremes of the mode is almost guiltless of neck decoration. It is finished with a severe ring this win- band, only slightly softened by a suspict of a frill behind. This mode is unbecoming to many young women and to all old wo- men—middle age, you know, has been abol- ished—and should not be adopted until su time it may become absolutely ne sary. Thenter Blouses. The® most lovable theater blouses are covered with gauzy over-blouses, jeweled till they sparkle like cobwebs spangled with dew. A pretty cxample of this sort worn by a preity girl a night or two She was blonde and her blouse w ven. The chiffon of which it was com- d was a labyrinth of gathers and rac! nd the lace applique of its a flower design of white chiffon, rh blossom shining with a tracery of © Hettes about a central diamond. A handkerchief drapery of lace offers one of the most novel blouse arrangements I remember seeing. It belonged to a cerise silk blouse which was encircled with tucks from neck to waist and from shoulder to wrist. A yoke eff was produced by erossway tucks. he lace peuched over the waistband and was drawn up at the left side into a great knot with ends. An erhanging frill of lace softened the tucked frill of the collar. An Effective Device. A fichu effect of chiffon tied in a loose bow across the front of a blouse is an ef- fective device seen It fllustrated pale blue and mauve. in five tucks at the was finished with a Me velvet, covered with cre for some people, I have in a bolero blouse of The silk wa laid yoke, and the neck ici collar of mauve m-tinted guipure while chiffon frills we set inside the rresponding with the chiffon short bolero was of velvet, ih guipure The only noteworthy evening wrap that I have seen this week is fitter, probably, for the or n the theater. It is of paie blue brocade, flowered with and is long enough to cover the hips It has a high Medici collar, lined with frills of blue chiffon and is trimmed with groups of wide silver-tinted chiffon rutile beaded with tinsel. ELLEN OSBORN. of Soups. anton, question of the he From the W When th tion un's Home Ce test nutri- at the smallest physical cost comes up for consideration, it is just here that the soup subject claims attention, its range of merits emt tween a mild ring all the possibilities be- imulant “(merely) and a very condensed form of nourishment. Soup is your table diplomat. appetite tte or It can the to come, cravin follows. , dear house- for good things fying all inw ferent as to w Never make the mistak keeper, of serving either to your family or guests a nourishing soup when you h a good dinner. If you do, be sure that all that follows will fall short of ap- preciation, No matter what delightful sui- prises are in reserve, they will bring you no glory; the praise accorded you will be perfunctory. Even at dinner, howev there will be oppertunities for serving your best soups, but keep the secret to yourself—it will be when the dinner itselt is slim or faulty. ou val your ch T, allow a greasy soup pear on your table. ‘The regular “soup- a er’ has a faucet near the bot Where the clear soup, without any may be drawn off. But the vessel univer- sally used is a large granite or porcelain- lined pot or kettle, and with these the grease must be differently managed. The best way is to strain the soup and let tt stand over night, when al! the fat n be lifted in a hardened cake from the top. But if stock is required for use the day it is made the required quantity must’ be taken out, chilled and skimmed. In an emergency, when there is no time for cool- Ing, take out twice the quantity needed and skim, and skim, and skim—till no more fat is to be scen—then draw blotting or »ping paper over the surface to take up the last chance particles left. = ee = Polishing Precious Stones, From the Philadelphia Times. The first thing ne in polishing a precious stone {fs to slit it; this is done by means of a thin sheet-iron disk, placed in a horizontal position and made to revolve by very simple machinery. Diamend dust is applied to the edge of the disk, and sperm oil Is dropped upon it from a can, If properly managed a very small quan- tity of diamond dust will last all day, and not much of it will be lost. In order to prevent appreciable loss, a table with a raised cdge all around it is provided. The diamond dust used in polishing stones is made from bort, or cheap, coarse diamonds. After being slit, the stone is ground on horizontal wheels of lead, brass or iron, and sometimes of wood. These wheels are called “laps,” and the workman who cuts and polishes stores in a lapidary, from the Latin word lapidarius. Lapidaries acquire Breat facility in shaping and _ polishing stones, and from a given pattern are able to produce any object required with great dexterity. Diamond, emery, agate or cor- undum powder is spread on the laps; grad- ually the powder becomes imbedded in the ps and the stone yields to them. ‘Tho stone is held cither with the fingers or by wax in the hollow at the end of a stick, and Is pressed sgainst the revolving laps.’ For the last polish the laps are cov- ered with cloth, leather or hard brushes. The facets, or flat surfaces that give bril- Nancy to transparent stones, are cut by means of a horizontal grinding wheel, by the side of which is placed an upright, club- lke piece of wood. Into this heavy piece of wood, in different places, a rod is stuck, at one end of which the stcne is fixed with cement. As the wheel revolves the stone is pressed against it and a facet is cut; to make a new facet, the rod holding the stone Is simply siuck in another hole in the club-like piece of wood and is thus given a new inclination or angle. o A Bridegroom’s Boutonniere. From the Philadelphia Ledger. A very beautiful flower for a gentleman of fine taste to wear is the gardenia. The effect of it on a black sult is especially good. Our florists should sell much of this magnificent flower for this purpose, At most weddings the bridegroom wears in his buttonhele a spray of orange blos- soms. 4 few sprays of lily of the valley make a ‘good buttonhole, not only for this purpose, but also for balls and dinners. Pansies, as a rule, look well in photo- graphs, whereas roses would form a blotch on the dress. Roman hyacinths, nicely a1 ranged, are very handsome and showy, and violets, if not in too big a bunch, are very handsome and tasty. ————-ee____ Mamma—“Ethel, what do you mean by shouting in that disgraceful fashion? See how quiet Willie ts.” . < Ethel—“Of course he’s quiet; that’s our game. Ho's papa coming home late, and T'm you.”—Tit-Bits, FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN A Gown That Wil! Answer Both for Dinn: and Balls, Intended Especially for Women Whose Parses Are Not Long—Some Timely Faxhton Hintn, cw For the next both matron and maid will ¢ to an extent which make st one ball and one dinner gown ute ne ty. It will, therefore, be cheering news to those whose purses are depleted by the holida constantly at a lower ¢ in view of the demands of society, to know that one gown may do service for all even- ing functions by the addition of sleeves and a guimpe to a low-necked gown. Low-necked gowns for dances have only an excuse for a sleeve, the airlest trifle of 2 puff, while a dinner gown is incomplete without a very long sleeve. But the long sleeve ts s made of the airiest and thinnest material possible its fixture on any sort of a gown Is an easy matter. Even velvet gowns shirred muslin dc sole sleeves, through which the arm plainly to be scen, while all light gow s in keeping with their dain If you have a relative whose belledom began late or rly in the seventies beg from her a silk gown of the Terhaps you will be surprised to fin how excellent was the quality of silk wo by the girls of those a. We yh more silk gowns than cur mothers ha but they will not be in as good condition tt ever our daughters wish to borrow them. The more of a bygone day the that is, vivid blue or a vivid H be more sat Dine or a pate green, from its ample folds a round bodice, am over th hips, flaring flounced ar the bottom, that this should br long enough to touch in the back. Make dress of net, muslin de soie, or any nspirent or semi-transparent material and a most up-to-date gown is the resuli Whatever material is used the waist of the overdres th a ful fr back, over th of the sole is art. skirt may flowers, spa terials now A Transformation, wns of this sort may, of course, t transformed from ball to dinner gowns t the addition of a pair of shirred sleeves ot the muslin de soie or net, which should fit the arm closely. Guimpes of the net or muslin de soe, finished with a collar or ribbon the color of the silk, are also worn, since {t has been decreed that a dinne gow except on the most forma a collar. Tt must needs be absolutely require a High-necked gowns on many occasions wh sidered good form her not at all mean that low-necked gowns are ing out, only that they are not nece ry function—excepting the th night. wis left in ious is generally made or slightly bloused effect, while the though full, is drawn smoothly silk, Tiny puffs of the net or cap flk form the sleeves. If muslin de used a sun plaited skirt is very If net is the favored material the be trimmed with satin ribbon, sles or any of the bright ma- n favor. very formal dinner to low-necked gown. this winter » not con- his does re worn th family po: s in which the the r use Only rounded spoonfuls are required, of heaping ones, combined mirast to Vivid a hue. Moire in pa lor with some other shade in direct it, is much worn. Poplin also ix seen, and nothing could be more beautiful than its silky folds, nor than the beautiful figures whteh can be shown in relief upon it, al- though the color of the ground and of the pattern are the same. Velvet has the same popularity afte but is more nightfall as it has by day, suitable for dinners or recep: atin ix a if readily S supplying ons than for dancing gowns it favored material and lends to a le pattern, its rich the place of elaboration. Trimming is in such high favor, however, on all evening gowns that if one is consid: ering where It is best to spend the largest part of the sum laid aside for an evening gown it is advisable to choose a lexs ex- pensive material which will readily lend it self to the elaboration of yards brilliant’ paste buck! Anything and thing, in fact, which has glitter to it for adding o: nt to the gowns asions, MABE designed for festive o . BOYD, ANE “is Carter In Seribner's t deal hes been said women of the lower « e fields, nd felt about sses working in and of the hard manual labor illed to perform. In the light of the fdeas that women should be dell- and refined physfially, doubtless the ad backs, hard muscles, and heavy, knotted frames of peasants we see appear liscordant and unseemly, Fisherwomen at Dicppe or Whitby, we know, and along- shcre everywhere hold their own against town councils when they dictate the policy f town governments, In mo ts of dan- when the sign I-gun summons the pop- ulace to scenes of danger, then these wo- Sand mothers of the fisher- man the lifeboats and breast the going to the rescue of Ut rela- tives In distr Yet these fierce, strong women scarcely fill the modern idea of what xo od should be Now, how ry he fad that women oroad-shoulderd, and di ve recently hing: of the wider education of our hi and healthy modern girls, the ques- ton arises among the observant, why work- ing in fields or carrying burdens fs, after il, such ak om to the int woman more than to the peasant Too much labor at toll s break down xes. But Disraeli spoke of s of the ntler, if not the weaker, nd when, Monte Sacro, L saw women swinging the ith br swe 4 eutting the : > Mountain sides with t Sickles, and then filling up tall, pannter- Uke straw baskets, which they bore away on their yulders | filled sruss for the cat all, in their pr men of Varallo ter or more they worked, and bright’ and Ks spoke of healthy toil — es fag Affernoon Whist, vem the Philadelphia Press. rnoon whist clubs generally termf- with a social half hou and “refresh. ments, Th latt vari, Hi most sa eatabl are thin bread nd wiche: and olives for the first cours with fces and cakes for the second. If chocolate is served it she i be passed during the first course, with whip- ped cream, but if coffee is preferred it shovld be served last in mi ses. Bon- and salted nuts rm yers t et luni unless onc ‘ps a bu trained maids, he buffe: E ion of enterta passed to the castest to man- er and well- luncheon solves for women of tess it w mended ifice one to nd white 5 eree vrawct gown, There is a good deal of work about one replied: It, but Its beauty will repay the weayer. | 1 NaS always just ¢ ne when she The gown should be made of white, and : hous: yut one sh quite plain, The richer the ma- | domestic.” Many wo: prevented t more successful it will from offering any of their fyi whet! tion, the atin, silk or wool be the founda- “fect must needs be striking. Black and White. The figures in the lace shawl must be cut out and appliqued to the gown, whether rear or far will depend upon the taste of urer and the size of the shawl or the of figures in the design. There , of course, be some sort of method about applying them. Then they should be cutlined in jet. This is a stunning way to make an old white cashmere into a modern ball or dinner gown. Black alone is now so popular that a black taffeta of most modest cost will do duty on all occasions the winter through. It may only be the quality used for linings. Made with fuffles about the foot of the skirt, lafd on either straight around the skirt, or apron front shape, with a square- cut Jow-necked bodice, finished with ruffles of taffeta or lace, or muslin de soie, one has the foundation of half a dozen’ cos- tumes. Different sashes, roman. stripe, plaid, or some bright color, will give a gay aspect without any other change. Combin- ed with soft white lace and a black and white or all white sash or belt it is a new gown entirely. While sleeves of soft, trans- parent black make it into a dinner gown, and a guimpe of black to match the sleeves, relieved at the throat by a white or bright ribbon collar, gives a gown for the theater hospitality because of ans. A collation where the guests and even help themselves must perfe informal and jolly and may be mana at small outlay by any housewife who wishes to show hospitality to her friends. Often a good occasion presents {itself for this kind of a luncheon, as w theater arty has been planned « g meal with courses would be un ee — French Women as Business Helpers. From the Century. In the families where the any business the wife becomes his best clerk, and usvally his cashier. The wives are excecdingly intelligent and acute, ex- tremely sharp at driving bargains, and ac- curate in keeping accounts. y are their husbands’ purtners in every sen: of the word, and ut is wonderful to see how they acquit theniselves of such a multiplicity of duties. Self is completely gnnihilated; and it weak health is mentioned, it is never an impediment to what they hav do for their children or their hust but ts mentioned only as a disagreeable accom- paniment to a necessary fatigue, without an idea of using it as an excuse for short- comings. ‘ather conducts to eee Meal Time, All Time. or a concert. Dancing gowns for young girls are made of the gay Royal Stuart tartan in silk or silk muslin. The effect of this especially bright and beautiful plaid on a young, radiant girl 1s most charming. Dancing Frocks. Dancing frocks for girls out of their teens are often of the brightest shades, scarlet itself scarcely being considered too From the Eddyville Tale. A countryman presented himself at the clerk’s desk in a hotel, and, after having @ room assigned him, inquired at what hours meals were served. “Breakfast from 7 to 11, luncheon from 11 to 3, dinner from 3 to 8 supper from 8 to 11,” recited the clerk, glibly. “Jerushy!” ejaculated the country. man, with bulging eyes. “When am I a- going to git time to see the town?” —~} THE USUAL CEREMONIES,