Evening Star Newspaper, November 13, 1897, Page 17

the Iriga GREATER SIMPLICITY This Year's Gowns Compared With Those of Last. ‘wi TWO FAVORED WAIST FORMS An Afternoon Costume Designed for the Duchess of York. MADE OF VIOLET CLOTH Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. DUBLIN, November 1, 1897. Fashion has changed so slowly that we are not aware of the differences until we compare the designs of 1 winter with those of this season. In doing so the inter- ested observer is particularly struck with the fact that the lines and forms of the modern gowns tend to greater simplicity and dignity. This is noticeable particularly in the street gown. We have never favored the absurd exaggerations of the skirt ani sleeve, and we are, therefore, pleased to note that the skirt of three and a half to four yards in circumference is accepted as well by the ultra-fashionable as by the woman who ever objected to exaggeration from principle. The sleeve follows the skirt in its ten- dency to diminish. The puff has almost disappeared, and the classic form for house and street gowns is the leg-o’-mutton sleeve with slight but decided fullness at the shoulder, or the absolutely tight form with the flounce or cap to accustom the eye gradually to the diminution. Thus the making over of a last year’s gown becomes sy matter to the practical woman. An Easy Choice. As regards the bodice form, two con- | trasting and equaliy acceptable opinions make choice easy. We find that the tight, plain waist (plain as to lines, but profusely decorated), as well as the full blouse, are equally triumphant on the field of fashion. The first-named form should be foregone by the tall, over-slender woman, while the full Ru: an blouse broadens a short figure. Mistakes in choice should not be laid to the door of Dame Fashion, who has enough blame to bear as it is. a The construction of these two favored waist forms is as different as the effe they produce. The blouse is made up over a tight lining, so that it really consists of two distinct bodices, the lining serving rather to hold the blouse in place than to be responsible for fit. ‘The plain tailor waist depends completely on the form and fit of the carefully mod- eled lining. The latter is, therefore, far more difficult to construct, and mistakes in fit are not so easily hidden by garnitures or padding. The fullness of the leg-o’-mutton sleeve appears more chic when made to stand out rather stiffly from the arm and is inter- lined or padded by the fashionable dres: maker to produce that desired effect. The basque on these two different bodices likewise differs. While the blouse form favors the narrow, serpentine basque or the long coatlike extension, which falls to the knees, forming an overskirt, the plain watst confines itself to a small, weil-fitting point at the front and back, or, as in some tailor-made gowns, the point in front is rounded and the back is finished in a pos- tillion. Stylish Shirt Waists. The shirt waist has become so abso- lutely necessary an article of dress that, in spite of the attacks made by dressmakers, women cling to it, and the manufacturers cater to this favoritism by supplying the mar- ket with a mass of beautiful textiles serv- iceable for shirt waists. The linen or cot- ton collar is inevitable with the shirt waist, the plain white being worn with multi- colored or plaid waists, while a novelty is shown in daintily striped and flowered ba- tiste. The belt and cravat are also objects of careful selection. The skirt is worn to contrast with the shirt waist; thus the plain, dark skirt goes with a plaid waist, and vice versa. The plain form of the modern costume naturally necessitates heavy and_ rich goods, but the practical woman will find u her new gown hardly costs more, since its construction depends upon quality rath- er than quantity. The market shows a wonderful assort- ment of stuffs and colors. The latter are soft and unostentatious, particularly for street wear. Satin-finished stuffs, as broad- cloth, cheviot, reps and Panama cloth, are seen in favorite shades of dark wine-red. with a bluish tone, greens, dull bluettes and rieb, dark purples and violets. The model, a drawing of which I submit today to the American public, was made in my establishment for her royal highness, the Duchess of Yerk, our future queen. Of Violet Cloth. Violet cloth constitutes this afternoon gown, which in is simplicity requires for its success the art and workmanship of experts in every detail. The skirt is lined with violet shot silk, and is quite plain, fitting closely over the hips and falling in a dectded flare from the knees downward. The bodice fits the figure perfectly and is tailor made, closing diag- enally in front under a ribbon of violet velvet, clesely embroidered with steel se- quins and beads. The seme band edges the points in back and front of the waist. Violet glace shot silk is smocked and form- ed into a square yoke at the front and back, and is finished tastefully with bands of the steel-embroidered violet velvet. The sleeves of cloth are quite tight and are capped by two silk-lined flounces of cloth, edged with embroidered violet vel- vet bands. The wristbands and very high standing collar are likewise embroidered, and ruffles of pale violet mousseline de soie finish both. The embroidery is of exquisite delicacy, and is a fine sample of the art of our Irish embroideries. se aac (ALFRED MANNING, Dublin.) THE THOROUGHBRED HAND. A Few Simple Esseutials for Its Care and Beauty. From the Toronto Mail. A beautiful hand ts, according to general belief, the sign of a long line of ancestors and of thoroughly aristocratic descent. ‘This is partly true, but many unaristo- cratic people are endowed with beautiful hauds, and, moreover, what inheritan has not done, care and attention can easily acquire. Indeed, it is always possibie to beautify the shape and complexion of the hand, be either so indifferent or rough. The hand cannot be preity, however shape- be by nature, if the nails are in y negle he nail has an ex- m, not to say an eloquence, of its for the social status of man or wo- man can easily be detected by the fashion in which it is shaped, cut and cared for. Few people know how to iake proper care of their nails without the assistance of the nd yet with a small amount of ven the uglicst nails can, im a short time, become beautiful. Of course, it is difficult to alter the color and shape thereof, but with some attention they may be considerably improved. To begin with, the hands should always be washed in very hot water, or, better yet, in warm oatmeal water. Falling this, a few drops of tine- ture of bengoin in the waier will add great- ly to the whiteness and softness of the skin, and also conduce to the beautifying cf the nails. When the hands are thor- oughly clean, rinse them in clear warm water, into which a teaspoonful of almond meal has becn thrown. Dry the hands on @ soft towel, and immediately rub them with the following mixture: One part pure glycerine, one part lemon juice, one part rose water. This can be prepared either for immediate use or kept in a bottle for three or four days at a time. Twice a we-k the nails should be rubbed with this varnish: Half an ounce of pistachio oil, 32 grains table salt, 33 grains powdered resin, 83 grains ground alum, 8) grains melted white wax, 2 grains fine carmine. These ingredients shculd be thoroughly mixed over a spirit lamp, made into a kind of Pematum, end preserved in a small glass porcelain jar. It should be epplied to the wall by a tiny wad of medicated cot- ton and allowed to remain for half an hour. The thin membrane at the root of the nail should then be carefully pushed back with the rounded end of an ivory nail file, and the Httle “idle skins’! that often grow at the root of the nail cut away with a pair of very sharp scissors. When this {s done the nail should be polis! with the so-called “diamond powder,” « cwn, small quantity of which is put on a chamois skin nail polisher. The hands are then washed in hot oatmeal water, weil dried on a very fine towel, and finally the nails are polished once more with a soft chamois polisher. By doing this twice a Week the roughest and most ungainly-ivok- ing hands and nails can be transformed into things cf beauty. Ail this, as the fai ones will see, means very little trouble order to obtain the agreeable poss of a “thoroughbred” hand. toe A Grape Dinner. From the New York Herald. A forme! dinner with the entire absence of novelty is often a dread, but if you help it out by a “specialty,” as a certain wo- man does who is noted for her nice din- rers, you will find it is robbed of the formality that makes it a terror to host- esses. s A grape dinner at this time of the year is Seasonable and certainly beautiful, and it pcssesses the wonderful advantage of be- ing no more expensive and a great deal less troublesome to give than the ordinary formal affair. The woman who originated the grape dinner had a man to serve it, but this is not necessary. At one described in the Philadelphia Times, in the center of the table was a big silver and gla§s dish into which were piled grapes of a deep purple and bright green, with an abund- ance of grape leaves upon them. As grape leaves are not always easy to obtain, imi- tation ones can be substituted, for the sake of the appearance of the dish; but at this time of the year a trip to the country will give any one an armful of leaves for the asking. From the dish there extended grapevines, which led to the four corners of the table, each termi- nating with a large bunch of green grapes. The table was set for eight, and under each plate there was a doily in the form of a grape leaf, stitched with green around the edge and veined. The cloth was snow white, as were also the dishes. The guests were served with grape. jeity made in a bunch-of-grapes mold. This was served with the game. With roast came grape sorbet (home made), after which there were ices and cream _in bunch-of-grapes form tinted with pistachio, .Gver the table bunches of grapes were hung from the chandeliers. . : Well Fitiea. ~*~ From Life. Gobang—“His talk ts mostly wind. “Well, what élse can you expect? They say that his wife blows him up every day.” THE EVENING STAR, HOUSEHOLD HINTS Suggestions for the Preparation of the Savory Scallop. A RECIPE FOR PRESERVED CITRON How to Get the Best Results in Cooking Carrots. SUBSTITUTE FOR SAUSAGES Written for The Evening Star. The savory scallop is again in market, though epicures declare that ft is not at its best until January and February. At that time the portion called the tongue is full and of a bright orange color. ‘The scallop industry in the United States is not a very old one, as until about a quarter of a cen- tury ago its value as a food product, was scarcely recognized here. Five years ago the United States government awakened to its evonomic and commercil value and set about collecting statistics of reczipts at the various markets. The scallop is a skort- lived mollusk, arriving at maturity and dissolution in two years, in its natural cle- ment, but dying within two days when re- moved. The scallop seldom arrives in its natural state in the New York market, as the dredgers have the pernicious hubit of soaking them, with the idea of makirg them piumper and whiter. This 1s the ex- plana.ion of Why they are so difficult to fry, for as soon as heated they flood the pan with water, chilling the fat in which they are to be cooked. bs ‘They may be fried with thin cut slices of bacon or in butter, but in either case must be drained for an hour or two in a colander after washing, then dried as thoroughly a8 pessible in a cloth before attempting to ecok them. Dust with flour and pepper, but do not add the salt until they are cook- ed, as that tends to extract the juice. Have the frying medium—bacon fat or butter— very hot, and serve on a very hot platter with very hot plates, and eat at once, ac- companying them, if possible, with baked potatoes and watercress. They snay aiso be cooked with anchovy paste, lemon juice and parsley, adding the paste and lemon juice afier the scallops have browned. Cook a little longer, add minced parsley, give that a few moments, and serve. This meth- od is a popular one with devotees of the chafing dish. Fcr the housewife who dotes on home- made preserves, the green and white cit- ron still holds itself in abeyance. Preserved citron makes a handsome and delicious sweetmeat, especially when pre- pared with ginger, lemon or raisins. In this form it is frequently served with cus- tards, blancmanges or ice cream. Pare of the green skin, cut in halves and remove the soft part. Then cut the fruit into dia- mends of any fanciful shape desired. Weigh the fruit, and to every six pounds ef rind allow a quart of water and a quarter of a pound of ginger root well washed. Cover closely, set on back of range and steam for two or three hour: not allowing the water to actually boil At the end of this time remove the rind from the water, and throw into very cold water while the syrup is being prepared. Make a syrup allowing five pounds of sugar to the six pounds of fruit, and an- other pint of boiling water added to the water in which the citron was steamed. Remove the ginger root from the water, and when the sugar is dissolved, add th fruit. Cook slowly for neariy .an_ hour, then skim out the fruit and spread upon platters in the sun or by the range until firm and almost cool. Now add to the syrup one pound of Malaga raisins secded, two lemons sliced very thin, taking care that no secds go in, and a few tiny strips of ginger root, simmer slowly until quite thick, return the citron to the syrup and cook fifteen miautes longer. Pack the rind in jars, pour over it the syrup, and when quite cool, tie up. * Although Americans as a rule hav. shown themselves indifferent to the clain of the humble carrot—claims long recog- nized and appreciated by man and French housewives, the published resul of recent experiments conducted by expert connected with the United States Depar ment ot Agriculture may induce the pro- gressive housewife to give the carrot a rial. “Although,” declares the repor “carrots contain less nitrogen than pot toes, they are found to contain relatively more alpuminoid nitrogen, and therefore to furnish more matter available for bulid- ing muscular tissue.” In regard to the best method of cooking, the following conclus- ions were deduced from actual experiment. First, that in order to retain the greate: amount of nutrients in the cooking of car- rots, the pieces should be large rather than small. Second, that the boiling should be rapid, in order to give less time for the solvent action of the water to act upon the {cod engredients, and third, that as little water as possible should be used; and if the matter extracted be used as food along with the carrots instead of being thrown away, the loss of 20 to 30 per cent or even more of the total value may be prevented. In this connection the German method of cooking carrots is to be commended. Cover with boiling water, add one teaspoonful of sugar, but no galt. Boil until tender, then season. To the family who are fond of sausage, but forego its allurements owing to the uncertainty attendant upon its composi- tion, or because they object to pork, the following substitute is recommended: Buy a shank of beef and boil slowly until very tender. Chop fine and season as for saus- age, allowing to every pound of the chop- ped meat ore even tablespoonful salt, a scant half teaspoonful sifted sage or sum- mer savory, as preferred. Mix thoroughly and crowd into cotton bags, wrung out of salt and water and dried. The 5 or 10-cent salt bags are about the right size and may be utilized in this way. Tie the bags tightly and keep in a cool place. When needed turn the end of the bag back and slice and cook in spider until brown. Shoemakers are now frequently called upon to fasten two little strips of rubber across the sole of babies’ shoes at the hall of the foot. This is done to obviate the constant tendency to slip back that attends the babies’ initial efforts at learning to walk. Every one who has noticed a baby taking {ts first erratic steps from chair to chair, slipping back until the little soles are worn almost as smooth as glass, and has felt his own ankles ache with sympathy at the strain, will count this idea worthy general adoption: When in the exigencies of “light house- keeping,” camp or invalid cooking, a few slices of crisp brown toast seem desi able, a fair substitute for the usual “fire of coals” may be found in a clean sheet-iron spider, heated very hot over any kind of a flame—gas, kerosene or wood. Do not use butter or any fat during the toasting pro- cess, but spread lightly with butter when finished. In the carpet stores the newest heavy in- grains are patterned both as to design and color after oriental rugs; while the Wilton velvets and body brussels have blossomed out in trailing vines and nosegays of rose- buds, pink and white, on effective back- sroanee of castor brown, deep green and old rose. The latest popular accompaniments to the cracker and cheese course are old-fashioned preserves—citron, ginger, peach or ornage. A Profitable and Pleasant Habit. From the Philadelphia Public Ledger. Miss Willard asks: As you sit around the evening lamp can you not resolve that you will commit to memory at least a verse a day from the best of poets? I shall never cease to be thankful to Prof. William P. Jones, my earliest preceptor in the Wo- man's College, at Evanston, who asked all of us girls to form this habit. Indeed, he made it a rule for his rhetoric class, and would give us scraps that he had cut from the newspapers of the day and say: “Learn that; it will be a gem laid up in the casket of your mind.” This became so’ much a habit that I have now pinned to my bureau @ little collection containing seven of the best sonnets ever written, some of which T am committing to begga and upon oth- ers I am refreshing the knowledge I al- ready had. Goethe said that a civilized person ought every day to hear a little good music, see a fine picture and learn a few words from some reasonable mind. previously J GOWNS AT A MATINEE Where the Women Could See as Well as Be Seen. SOME WERE VERY WELL DRESSED And From Them Ideas Can Be Had of New York Fashions. NOVELTIES IN JEWELRY ———_>--—— (Copyright, 1897, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, November 10, 1897. HIS IS THE STORY of a matinee. There were three or four men present, prob- ably; there was one within my range of view. But such a twittering flock of women! There were women young, women still young and © women young-looking. There are no other known varieties of women. In the department stores they divide Delft ware, whose address ts supposed to be Hol- land, into “Delft,” “real Delft” and “gen- uine imported Delft.” There was “standing room only” at the matinee, and not much of that; women have hung on to cat straps so long that sitting is becoming, by heredity, almost un- natural to them. The sound of the women was that of a cloud of sparrows settling into a spruce tree at sunset; and the sight of them—who said “poultry show?” If all hats are cov- ered with plumes, most necks have little furry heads with beady eyes and pointed noses. peering from ynder them, so that the prospect of lively times on the chicken roosts is a good cne. _There may have been a play, but these are the things to which I’pa‘d attention. The new shake amounts to a competitive examination in gloves and hands. When two women standup to éach other, wrist to wrist and fingers to fingers, the little, faddish sway. to and fro, tick, tock, like a clock pendulurn, as ordained’ by fashion, gives just time enough for measurement and observation; everybody near ts fully informed who wears 5's and whose number. is 6 3-4; also who has new gloves and who has economized. Novelties in Jewelry. The jewelry novelties that women are wearing this autumn are in part as fol- lows: Large round lockets to hang below the waist; these have glass faces and carry focr-leaved clovers. Slides for the pet dog collar of black velvet ribbon. Hanginiz from the slide is usually a heart-shaped locket, on which fs a lizard, or a sprawling turtle In green olivine. Muff chains in oxi- dized silver or in white enamel, with the links connected by emeralds or turquoises. Gold curb chain bracelets fastened by dia- mond padlocks, each padlock holding a golden key. The novelty in manners this season ts the eagerness with which milliners and dressmakers mob women who are wearing novel gowns from which they can get fresh fdeas, and the complaisance with which some well-dressed women regard the inno- vation. Such dress inspection is easier at the theater, and there is still a certain de- corum about it in the evening; there was almost necessity for the reading of the riot act in the vestibule before and after the matinee. Blouses and Hats. The matinee blouse is of pale blue or pink moire velvet. Black and white plaid velvet is smart also. The matinee belt is of gold, galon pat- terned, with a chine design in flowers; or else it is of white leather, and oxidized sil- ver studded with amethysts or emeralds. he matinee hat is hike a large pie, with a nicely crimped crust borne on the slanied hand of a waiter; a meatpie, with a big puffy uppercrust, it would be, probably. it is not admirabie. ‘he matinee hat tilts sidewise, the siant producing an incongruous effect on certain young, innocent types of faces, as if a Ma- donna were trying to look rakish and fail- ing miserably. The matinee hat carries birds of sucn size as to tempt carving. The invitation to “dark meat or light” threatens to pop out at any time. The “pok with a feather boa thrown ‘ever the crown is a variation. The boa is brought under the chin and hangs in long ends. The matinee muff is small up to date; not yet well developed, possibly. The Matinee Gown, The matinee gown js pretty. As the mat- ihee audience is all women, the gown is not “all fer "im!” Not yet are the costumes such as women wear when they desire chiefly to pique other women. There are few extremes. The most, definite descrip- tion possible is exact, though it sounds in- definite; one sees ju&t wHat one would ex- pect to see. Yet I found novelties and some that stood out with startling distinctness. Two or three good and really origiaal dresses are described. A rather tall girl of soft peachy coloring and with heavy brown hair wore one of the simplest dresses noticed; it was at the same time the mosteremgried. It had the effect of being a pence gown, but was not so really: A dqtible ‘¥ow of buttons of rough pearls exte 7from the bodice down upon the s héiped the illusion. The material was 4 vailver gray cloth. The bodice was a pouching very slightly and cut low, over a yoke cf white crepe lisse Iaid-in fine gathers. The top of the blouse was trimmed with scrolls of nar- row white ribbon, outlined with mauve baby. ribbon. “These scrolls formed flat epau- lettes over ‘the tight v white glace: silk, ti covered with tiny. puffings Of crepe lisse <A band of the white and mauve q the it of fe-was lost in-large lease sibbon serous reat nette beauty. The skirt was of peculiarly graceful cut, and was trimmed with: four ruchings of blue gray chiffon, set quite near one another, in front, but sweeping up the skirt in curves behind. Down the front, from throat to ground, fell a central panel of cream guipure. There was a narrow waist belt of blue gray velvet drawn through a paste-buckle, and there were epaulettes of guipure, ruched with chiffon over the tight guipure sleeves. At the throat came an immense bow of white chiffon, and at one side of the bodice a bow of coral velvet, giving a color of great piquancy. Blue gray velvet was called upon for the teque, which was trimmed with chiffon, violets and cstrich feathers. A dress which suggested the possibility of a revival of the polonaise was of fawn- colored cloth, with incrustations of rich embroidery simulating a long polonaise upon the skirt, which was plain other- wise. The pouched bodice was made with a double collar, the lower one jeep enough to be like a small bolero, the upper one reaching out into epaulettes on the shoul- der. Both collars were heavily embroid- ered and edged, as was the skirt embroid- ery, with a line of fur. A standing coilir at the throat was fur-edged also. To fin- ish this toilet came a toque of periwin«le velvet, with a tuft of violets at one side, and above it an aigrette of the same flower. Old Rose Cloth. A prominent toilet in a prominent box was of old rose cloth with a close-fitting bodice of old rose moire, striped broadly across with black satin and green velvet. The bodice front was a vest of gray cloth, studded with steel and bordered on either sfde with Persian lamb; to edge the Persian lamb were bands of gray-green velvet sewn with silver. The waist band, of old rose velvet, was caught with a steel slide. Below the belt the Pei n lamb znd velvet were continued behind and in frent in_ square tabs. The matinee wrap appeared short, as a rule. Oftener than it should. it took the form of a Russian blouse jacket worn by a stout woman. ELLEN OSBORN. Se ORIENTAL WOMEN WEAVERS. None Can Surpass Them in Making Tapestries and Carpets. From the London Mail. The somewhat popular conception of the criental woman is rather erroneous. It is that of one»who is destined to a life of utter luxui Yet the simple truth is that the large majority of women in the east work quite as hard for their daily bread as do their sisters in the west—aye, even harder, for, as a rule, married women in the west are supported by their husbands, whereas In the east married women are, as a rule, constrained to support not only themselves, but also their husbands and children. This statement applies especially to the thousands of women in Turkey, Persia and other countries of the orient who make a living as weavers. The whole civilized world appreciates their handiwork, for none can match them in making tapestries, cerpets and other gorgeous products of the loom. This is the age of machinery, but no machine has yet been invented which can do the marvelous work of these orient- al weavers. Yet many of these women work for pitiful wages. After cleaning and preparing the wool and shaping it into a lovely piece of tapestry, all they receive is the equivalent of from two shillings to four shillings a week. The woman who can earn seven frances is considered a Croesus, and her husband esteemis her so much that he never dreams of beating her. The money is always paid to the husband, and he invariably appropriates it. They are very womanly, these weavers. Of gossip they are fond, and while they are at work their tongues are consiantiy going. Perhaps this is one reason why they have so obstinately refused to herd together in factories, where the constant whir of machinery, ‘not to speak of the survelllance of a ‘foreman, would very probably compel them to keep silent. In order to fashion a first-class carpet or piece of tapestry, the weaver must not only have a memory which will prevent her from mzking the slightest mistake while copylig the design, but she must also possess a lively imagination and a thoroughly developed artistic sense. For the first-class weaver does not copy, she creates. She invents her own designs, she combines the various tones, she chooses the dyes and the shades, and, finally, she obtains those effects which seem so charm- ing to us of the west, and with good rea- son, WOMEN STENOGRAPHERS. All in the Employ of the City of Chi- cago Discharged. Mayor Harrison of Chicago has discharg- ed from the city’s employ all the young women stenographers in the various city departments. One reason assigned for his action is that in going and coming from lunch the young women were wont to congregate in the corridors and allow their spirits to effer- vesce in giggles and small talk, much to the disgruntlement of the sober-minded politicians, Another reason put forth is that none of the young women support families and that the work should be given to people who have a house full of relatives to look after and provide with daily bread. These reasons, the young women say, are but excuses, and they point to the fact that all day long the corridors of the city hall are filled with little knots of men in the employ of the city, who laugh, talk and smoke to their hearts’ content, while a group of girls is rarely seen. They also say that the fact that one of their number has a widowed mother and two younger sisters to support was no security from the headsman’s ax. The real reason, says the Chicago News, for the mayor's order is said to be that a lot of hungry politicians have been hound- ing him for jobs for some of their follow- ers, and seeing a number of young women employed in the hall conceived the idea of having them discharged and men put in their places. The civil service list of eli- gible stenographers includes, it is said, only the names of women. The city ofi- cials can claim the right to choose between male and female help, it is asserted, and there being no men eligible a demand can be made for sixty-day men to take the Places of the discharged stenographers. One of the young women who received her walking says the next thing she expects to see Is the discharge of all the scrub-women and the employ of voters in their places. ——+or—____ He Let Her Have Them. From Tit-Bits. is At a dinrer party the coachman had. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Proper Thing to Wear in Gowns and Hats At the New York Horse Show the the Season— Flounced Skirts. a for Rest of Several years ago a woman who lived west of New York—exactly where does not matter—was ambitious to attend the horse show. Her daughters had reached an age when they, too, took an interest in the af- fairs of the world and joined with her in coaxing paterfamilias to engage a promi- nent and expensive box at the auction, which always occurs over a week before the opening of the show. Gowns had been ordered in Paris some months before, as the three women knew they could persuade the one man of the family to fall in with their views. All went well and merrily, and Monday night, the first night of the show, found them occupying one of the best and most conspicuous boxes to be had. They had expected to be observed, had had provided themeelves with elaborate and beautiful gowns, and rcund them and be- fcre them they saw the same. But the gowns which they observed were made with high, close-fitting collars, while their own gowns were decollete. Very slightly cut out at the neck, it is true, but by far the most conspicuous gowns at the show. They had moral courage, those women. They did not flinch, in spite of heightene: cclor and rather anxious eyes. They sat out the whole evening, but they did not leave their box and rove about the crowded floor, as is usual, neither did they go dow stairs to look at the beautiful animals, w are, in fact, the center of the show, but a center so hemmed in by bipeds that one can only get a glimpse of them by going to their stalls in the basement. It does not seem probable this year that even a Sandwich Islender could make the mistake of going to the horse show in an evening gown or anything approaching it, se often has the point been emphasized. Yet not long ago some one living not very far from New York was surprised when told that all gowns worn there must ap- proximate a street costume—no matter how ecstly or elaborate they might be. “Some semblance of a bornet is always worn, though women who own beautiful jet and steel coronets have in past years combined them with a ribbon or a flower and made a bennet which would pass mus- ter, as one in a Catholic church, where wo- men are not supposed to appear with heads vncovered—following the precepts of the Apostle Paul. And, althcugh the bonnets this year have a little more substance to them than they have had in the near past, still this week many have appeared, spe- cially designed for the event of which New Ycrk makes so much, that are little more than a bit of velvet and an osirich tip or two. Wraps Match Hats. Coats and capes to be worn at the horse show must either be very handsome, and rot very warm, so that they may be kept cn, or plain enough to be left in the car- riage or in the coat room. The probabili- ties are that many of the new hats and capes to match will be seen. These have teen mentioned before, but grow more in favor and beauty with each succeeding week. Exquisite combinations of velvet end lace, and often fur, are used in these rich looking capes, which add much to to the breadth of the shoulders, but little to the warmth of the costume. A hat, toque or bonnet of the same velvet, gen- erally with curling plumes, crowns the head of the fortunate pcrsessor. This tas been a week of unexampled ac- tivity in the production of new gowns, as well as in the exhibition of new import: tions, and some of the styles which ha been promised have actually appeared been worn, or will be seen in the boxe the horse show next week. The very, very newest is the triple skirt. One must pe tall and slender to support it at all. I consists of three wide flounces, and some times, besides that, an underskirt, which shows undér the lowest flounce. Often the flounces are cut longer in the middle of the back and front than they are on at the side. This gives the effect of pointed Greek overskirts, once so popular and graceful. Sometimes there are five flounces. A re- cent importation had five, edgéd with bias folds of silk. The ficunces themselves were of black broadcloth. The coat was not bloused at all, but gathered into a pointed girdle in front, and a white chiffon vest and collar gave a touch of brightness to the whole costume The princess gown has also been seen. It had been heard of and talked of, but it never appeared, and one began to be doubtful of its tangible existence. Almost all of the imported princess gowns make a pretense of being something else. Either they are bloused in front over a belt, or they have straps in the back, broadening out into folds, or they are belted. None of them proclaim themselves boldly in their true character. Popular Separate Waist. Although there will be many beautiful and rich costumes worn at the coming focus of all eyes next week, the separate waist will not be thrust into the shade. Most rich, beautiful and varied basques and blouses to wear with dark skirts are being prepared. Cerise and magenta are no longer new, but in Velvet they show to such advantage and light up so beauti- fully that many bodices are made of them this year. Bright greens are also magnifi- cent in rich stuffs. Everything is trimmed with lace cr white chiffon. No gown is all one color and somber as that makes it. If lace is not used some light, bright silk 1s, and white chiffon, white satin or white muslin de soie vests form part of nearly every gewn worn. So much stress is laid upon wearing apparel for the horse show, as it forms an index to the winter which lies before us. By -observing the gowns there and afterward in the supper and coffee rooms of a hotel frequented by the butterflies of fashion one kuows just what one should wear at receptions and small dinners. Gowns worn at this function in the after- neon are, of course, less elaborate than those which appear after society has dined and wined and then enscorces itself in the boxes to watch the show of bipeds quite as much or more than the show of quad- rupeds. MABEL BOYD. —— es HOW SOME PEOPLE LIVE, Queer Ways of Eking Out Insufficient Regular Incomes. From Cassell’s Saturday Journal. In the struggle for life, which is so keen at this end of the century, come people re- sort to strange expedients to get bread and cheese or to increase a pittance to a comfortable income. Inspector Living- stone, who was formerly in charge of the police at the law courts, tells a tragic story of a poor and briefiess barrister who fought a long and grim battle with fate, and was beaten in the end. In the early hours of the morning he worked as a mar- ket porter at Covent Garden, and then at | cially after the Book Free Our book of 400 selected re- ceipts by practical housekeepers, for ee housekeepers, will be mail to anyone on receipt of stamp and address. CLEVELAND BAKING POWDER CO., 83 Fulton Street, New York. 10 o'clock adjourned ty his chambers in the Temple, donned wig and gown tended the courts, waiting day af to grasp the = ers as unknown to the less as he had their gpportunity, but none presented itself to him, and in hope ever deferred his race was run. A Some rk, who re matrimon: ad_ properly counte the cost, and found it dificult to run ¢ & modest household on £ . got over the embarrassment by » ) coffee stall nea eld Market in the early morning. e kept his truck in the neighborhood, but brought down his stock of comestibles from his home in Town. Fortunately, his wife, who did her best to help on the ente A capital plain cook, and his mutton pies and buns had a great reputation in the market. He Was generally cleaned out by 8 o'clock, and no one would have thought of ide him with the smart young man, sil and top-coated, who two hours later cross- ed the Strand to Somerset I A rising author who is now sought by the publishers, but had a particularly hard struggle to find plance, tided over the worst period by acting as a broker's m: un- declares that rid, Taken as a whole, he found it a m: pleasant experience, but he he wouldn't have missed it for the for it has supplied him with material for numbers of sketches and short stories. A Christmas story which brought him a lot of praise, for instance, was a chapter from that experience and’ well rved the encomium of “very realistic critics. A friend of the writer, who r what the police reports call “a v cratic appearanc cellent manners, a income to pay for th himself and family o from the ition ex- tions in Belgravia and Mayfair. Chance threw him in contact with the manager of a detective agency which does a great deal of business of this kind, and his first job was, in fact. simply as a night's diversion at the invitation of the manager aforesaid. But so pleased was the lady of the hi with his appearance and obliging court that she made special mention of it to the manager, who accordingly proposed to my friend that he should accept regular paid employment. He was nothing loath, and now has engagements almost every night during the season. Another curious case is that of a non- conformist minister in the south of London who doubles his slender salary by the profits of a flourishing photography busi- ness on the other side of the Thames. Orig- inally he took up photo; as a pas- time, but, acquiring considerable skill in the work, was pestered by people who wanted to get their portraits taken on the cheap. So he determined to gain instead of lose by his work, and, taking convenient rooms at some distance from the se of his ministerial labors, set up as a “photo- ic artist” under another . his ter acting as his assistant. ed him, a ‘ore the secret promising a bus stood in no awe of deacons or church, though, indeed, the former have taken a very sensible view of the matter, and admire rather than con- demn his enterprise. ———_-+e+ MAN WHO WORE A DAISY. Girls Laughed B use It Was of Cloth, but It Had a Story. From the Chicago Times-Herald. They were giddy girls of the kittenish age, and being out on a lark without chap- erons they spoke their thoughts aloud and made game of every one and every. thing they saw, on the principle that all was fish that came to their nets. One pazsenger on the elevated railroad particularly amused them, from the fact that, although it was the month of bleak November, he wore a white daisy in his buttonhole, a fine specimen of the ragged edge variety. It was conspicuous from its size, and the girls regarded it as a lesiti- mate object of sport. Not being deaf nor biind, the man who wore the modest flower with the yellow heart grew embarrassed over the attention he received. At last one of the girls made a discovery. “It isn't genuine,” she suggested to the others in a loud whisper. “Ww. " they trilled in chorus, “Yes, it’s a cloth daisy! By this time the man upon whom all eyes were focused was ready to leave the car. Before he went he touched his hat to his tormenters. “Yes,” he said pleasantly, cloth daisy. My little daughter, who is an invalid, made it and pinned it on. She asked me to wear it, and I had not the heart to refuse her. I hope I have your permission?” A group of shame-faced girls sneaked out of the car at the next station. a The Princess Wouldn't From the London Star. There is a good story about the Princess Victoria of Wales and the Duchess of Dev- enshire’s fancy dress bali about which the smart world raved in the summer. The princess was like many other distinguished ladies, approached with respectful induce- ments to sell the dress she wore at the ball to the manager of a theater. The reply was lovely The princess did not, she explained, feel inclined to sell the dress for two reasons. First of all, it would makg a beautiful tea gown, and then if she Cid sell the gown she would not herself get “this is a Her Dress. Mrs. Chugwater—“Josiah, I canned those ‘gocseberries three years ago. How do they taste?” ~ Mr. Chugwater—“Well, they’re no worse than when you put them up. You can’t spoil the darned things by canning them.” —Chicago Tribune. SS THE PROCESSION OF THE SEASONS, From Life. tas