Evening Star Newspaper, October 23, 1897, Page 15

7 The Princemes ef Bulgaria, Princewrs Ltanof, Radsiewitl, ‘nem, Counteag a Qbetionky of the Court of Reamig, Be IN THE EMPIRE STYLE — " Felix Designs a Handsome Gown for Evening Wear. AND WRITES OF WINTER FASHIONS Season's Novelties Are in the Sleeves and Shirts. FONDNESS FOR DRAPERIES Special Correspondence of The ar. PARIS, October 10, 1897. lays of glowing autumnal colors, nature has clothed herself in gor- reds and yellows and 2ssumes her ‘pect, no wonder that the ns to thoughis of dre © to what will be worn ponderous enough. a radical change in this year's fash- i taken place, then it mani- In these when it ions fests f wii s to past volum to disappear entirely at th Kle goddes worn high and chtest prov- very mue skirt form has a decided tendency . With view to which fashiona- facturers are already turn- ty of whi 2 lie ies. Of course, If in skirt will not tion to the v but will by ting itself garniture subject to evolution triump! house will variety tea trimmed flounces ich much and mou e de soie lend | lmirably. | corsaKe be of and ruche favored laces themselves As to the avor, as it com and permits the fancy tree, Blouse and Vest. While the bou the delight of the thin woman, ure inclines to embonpoint which el¢ t and can be trim med diversely Our m of an empire | grande toilet wil lap to those of our | an readers whose taste runs to the nt. short nd tight round e of shimmering taffeta cf clethed rose-¢. red | with hands of the | tach other over the in- | in orned with a large pearl buckle. founce of real lace runs in ac! ons arcund the hem of the | skirt, anc ened at the ts by pearl buckles nded by wreaths of - Blossoms, so natural in appearance that the of t observer is deceiv avre of the F these sian flower mak- ers’ art. The t bodice f y decollete, and crosses formed being ttached wi we bh uquet of the ap- atin encircles closing on the left side with a earls Surrounded by a wreath of ms. buckle of blossoms. Lace and A triple flour or real lace is wired to obtain the necessary stiffness and forms a fichu-like drapery, which almost con- veals the small puff s of taffeta and falling well from the shoulder, cros over the bi A graceful butterfly be The very long train, resembling a mantle, is a striking feature of the costume. it : A.SIMONSON é 933 Broadway, Ge) 2st & 224 Sts, NEW YORK CITY. The Oldest, Largest and Most Reliable Human Hair Goods Emporium in America. Established since 1858. My stock In fine quality of HUMAN HAIR GOODS, the high-grade of workmanship, the im- mense varlety of stylish designs in various Coif- fures, ernnot be equaled anywhe: The Novelty for the Season of 1807 and-'98 is the MARIE ANTOINETTE COIFFURE, so very becoming and stylish, and with the aid of the famous patented NEWPORT COIL, any lady, without any trouble, will accomplish a perfect Coiffure. ILLUSIVE WIGS, of my make, are the Standard of perfection, as to fine and superior ‘workmanship. Our HAIR DRESSING PARLOR 1s a per- fect Bijou! Numerous artists and experts for hair coloring (in various shades) are constantly in at- tendance. Ap exquisite assortment of HAIR ORNA- MENTS, a specialty: COLORED ILLUST. F. CATALOGUE FREE. MONSON. 21ST AND 22D STS. consists of pale green velvet and is lined with rose-colored satin. The velvet is cov- ered with exquisite hand-embroidered wreaths of apple blossoms and roses with shaded green foliage. The scolloped edge is outlined with a narrow pearl passemen- terie and a tiny flounce of real lace. The white glace kid gloves are short and strictly in keeping with the character of the Empire fashion—as is the coiffure. The front hair is parted in the middle, and forms fluffy curls on either side, while the back hair is combed up smoothly, and done into a high knotted puff, held at the back by a high comb, set with pearls and sur- rounded by a wreath Bf the apple blos- soms. To Lessen the Cost. The magnificent train may be left off; it will lessen the expense fully two-thirds, but will also draw from the dignity of the charactehistic costume. Without the train, the gown will be par- ticularly appropriate for a young lady, and it may be made quite inexpensively by substituting for the real lace a hand- some filmy imitation—specimens of which the large shops now offer in such great abundance and beauty and at comparatively small cost. Taffeta is sold at prices to accommodate almost any purse, and the pearls and pearl buckles and trimmings need not neces- sarily be real. The gown, with train omitted, would also look well made up of thin, white taf- feta, entirely covered with smooth white, or rose-colored, or any other delicate shade of mousseline de soie, or silk tarlatan, but the “s—to be characteristic—must be of and, instead of apple blossoms, would be equally in good tast The train, of course. is very expensive, but the cost could be diminished if it were made of cheaper velvet, or of a good qual- ity of velveteen, or faille, upon which the deft fingers of the artistic Americaine may ply her brushes and paint in delicate colors hs which would cost a great time and money to embroider. . FELIX, Paris.) ee HIS FOOLISH PRESUMPTION. The Young Lady Taught Him That He Had Made a Mistake. From the Cleveland Leader. o," said Evangeline Glendenning, as she looked down at the floor and nervously twisted her slim little fingers; ‘no, Alfred, I am sorry, but it cannot be.” Alfred Doncaster had soved the beautiful girl from the moment he had first seen he and he had fondly believed that she lool ed upon him with more than ordinary ta- vor. But now his hopes lay shattered, and the future stretched out black before him. The strong, handsome young man sighed, and was silent for a long time. At last the sweet-maiden said: ‘Try to be brave, Alfred. » how I am bearing up.” He turned toward her in wonder, and id: Why should you bid me do this? What have you to bear up under?” Alfred, if you only knew!” “Evangelire!’ he cried, catching her in his arms and holding her in a strong em- brace, “you love me! Ah, darling, you can- pe hide the truth from me! Tell me it is so."” Look at me. he said, “I love you, Alfred.” ‘O heaven,” he groaned, “this is terri- ble, terrible. Oh, if you ‘only hated me me! Then my fate would be less e was frightened, and drew away frem him. “Why,” she asked, “do you want me to hate you?" “Ah,” he answered, “I might bear my own burden, but how can I survive know- ing that you, too, suffer?” “Yet, why should either of us suffer?” the trembling girl inquired. “Evangeline,” he almost hissed, “do not jest with me! Why should we suffer! Are we not doomed to everlasting separation and misery? Are we not to be—” “Oh,” she interrupted, “you're not going to let a little bluff stop you right at the start, are you? Did you want me to tum- ble into your arms the first thing, as if I had merely been waiting for the word? You must be new at this business.” Then she became so angry that it took Alfred Doncaster nearly seven minutes to win her back again. ——+e2—___ House-to-House Housekeeping. From London Truth. Why should not a staff of servants be organized to do, at any rate, the rougher part of the domestic service in, say, fifty or a hundred federated households, just in the same way that a single staff could be organized to cook their meals? Why should I not pay so much a year, either to a bona- fide co-operative society, or to a private speculator, to have my beds made, my floors scrubbed, my knives and boots c’eaned, and other stmilar work performed at stated hours every day and every week? The agency which undertook to perform this service would organize its workers just as do other. agencies which at present undertake to keep our gardens in order, to clean our boilers, sweep our chimneys, or clean our bicycles; and the labor diffl- culty which meets us in domestic service as at present organized would consequently be eliminated. Dora De Witt’s Long Ride. From the Kansas City Star. Dora De Witt, who left Kansas City, Au- gust 22, to ride a bicycle to New York and back, returned to the city yesterday. She made the trip from here to New York in nineteen days of actual riding. On her re- turn she rode from New York to Chicago in fifteen days. She contracted a severe cold in Chicago and came home on the train. Her best day's ride was 130 miles and the poorest only fifty miles. She averaged eighty-five miles a day. Miss De Witt only had one bad fall dur- ing the trip and she was forced to shoot cnly one dog with the revolver she carried for the purpose of protecting herself. HOUSEHOLD HINTS Things to Remember in Oaring for Kerosene Lamps. HOW 10 PRESERVE FINE FLANNELS The Linen Closet Now Must Be Redolent of Sweet Perfume. A HALLOWEEN SUGGESTION ee Written for TLe Evening Star. In buying lamps or oil remember that the best is always the cheapest in the end. A well-filled, carefully trimmed and clean, odorless lamp adds much to the attractive- ness of a table. Clean burners and wicks are essential to clear iight. The metal holders should be boiled in salt and soda and water every few weeks, for heated metal gives out a foul odor. The wicks be- come clogged by the paraffine in the oll, and if long in use should be occasionally washed, boiled and dried. If soaked in vinegar they are said to give a clearer light. The wick should never crowd the tube. If too tight, pull out two or three threads lengthwise. When first lighted, do not turn very high, as the flame is apt to increase. Never turn low and leave light- ed. Never light a half-filled lamp that has been standing any length of time. Lamps should be cared for in the morning as a regular part of the routine work. Fill within a half inch of the top, trim evenly just the charred part of the wick —using sectssors kept especially for that purpose, or rubbing off with a bit of paper. The chimneys do rot always need wash- ing. By breathing lightly down the chim- ney and rubbing with a tissue paper, a handful of waste or a clean, soft, cotton cloth, they can be kept bright and cledr. Never wash in warm, soapy water, as chimneys thus treated crack easily and take on a cloudy surface that no rubbing can eradicate. Never clean with the pat- ent brushes or bristles on a metal holder, as they scratch the glass, and the chim- neys break. Chimneys were formerly tem- pered in the manufacture, but are now sold so low that this precaution is omitted. They may be tempered at home by put- ting in cold water and bringing to a boil. Then cool in water. Cold water and alco- hol give chimneys the highest polish. When the lamp is filled and trimmed, rub and dry every inch of the bowl, fixture, handle and base, that no trace of kerosene be left to soil the hands of the “lamp-lighter,” and turn the wick rather low, to avoid the capillary overflow, With the “putting on” of winter flannels the annual battle royal for their preserva- tion in their natural size bezi1s with the laundress, and “line upon line, precept upen precept” becomes the order of wash day. Emphasize the fact that the dust should always be shaken from flannels be- fore washing. Fut in a tub of warm suds, to which a tablespoonful of borax or two tablespoonfuls of houschold ammonia has been added. Use the best quality of laun- Gry soap, but do not rub directly on the flannels, nor the flannels on a board. Never use yellow soap, on account of the resin. Squeeze in the hands, sousing frequently, and rubbing specially bad spots in the hard. Wring lightly without twisting into another tub of weaker suds, being careful to maintain the same temperature to avoid shrinkage. me temper: If you like a little bluing, it may be to this water. Wriag as dry as pos- sible without twisting, and dry as quickly as possible in the open air, never allowing them to freeze. Before quite dry take i and roll in a clean cloth, and ircn scon with 2 moderately hot iron, dependiag mestly upon a good deal of pressure. For colored flannels have fresh warm suds, that no lint may adhere to them. Thus treated, flannels will remain soft, elastic and of normal size. A most deiicious vegetable soup that com- mends itself to housekeepers when the “stockpot” is empty is this, glvea by Miss Parloa: One pint of white turnips cut in cubes; one-half pint of carrots cut In cubes; ore pint of potatces in cubes; one-half pint of leeks, the white part; one large onion, one clove of garlic, one eschalot, one tablespoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, one- third theaspoonful of pepper, two quarts of water. Cut the onions fine and cook them slowly with the butter for half aa hour. Then add the boiling water and carrots, and cook half an hour longer. At the end of this time add the turnips, potatoes, sea- soning, and cook an hour. If you have parsley or uil, add a teaspoonful ten minutes before serving. The soup {s im- proved if some bones or trimmings of meat be added. A most delicious cream vegetable soup is made by rubbing a portion of this soup through a puree sleve and adding milk and a little salt to it. It should just come to the boiling point and be served with fried ed bread. The days of our great-grandmothers are coming back to us, and the dainty house- keeper is rot satisfied unless her linen closet is redolent with the sweet, fresh fragrance of lavender. Scented beds are a great fad in England also. While sachets of lavender laid in press ané bureau drawers, in oaken chest and linen cleset, are the usual means of imparting this fragrance, the lidified per- fume made up in the form of “‘sweet bafis” (grandmother's fashion redivivus) will be fcund more satisfactory and lasting. The rule for this, as given oy an expert in the art, is to mix a quarter of a pound of crushed lavender flowers with ten drops of ofl of lavender and make it into a dough with a little gum tragacanth. Knead this into balls about the size of a marble, roll ir. powdered orris root and put in a ‘tight tin’ box to dry. A supply of these may be made and be kept on hand in a closely corked bottle, to replace the old ones when their pungency has vanished. In laying in the winter’s supply of coal, remember that the white ash coals are hard and slow burning, and are, therefore, better for range, cooking stove or furnace use; while the red ash, which ts soft and free burning, making a lurinous fire, is bette~ for the grate. Preparatory to put- ting coal into the cellar, close ‘all doors opening into the coal cellar, and close and cover the registers with paper. If the coal is thrown into the cellar through a shute made in the side of the house, protect the sices of the house by pieces of carpet or burlaps tacked on. A clever suggestion for a Halloween comes from the Wells College girls’ fertile brains. Last year the “fateful eve” was observed at the college by a party whcse personnel was made up of the ghosts of many cele- brated people. After a march through the halls, which were fantastically decorated and dimly lighted by jack-o'-lanterns, the sheeted things gathered in the darkened reading room and laying aside their “gib- bering,” listened to a reading from Bulwer Lytton’s “Haunted House.” This was fol- lowed by dancing, refreshments and fortune telling until the hour when “churchyards yawn.” Every owner of a granite pan or kettle has soon or late to bemoan their tendency to “spring a leak,” and their own inability to repair the damage. ‘‘Necessity,” in the mountains, at least, ‘is the mother of in- vention,” and a farmer’s wife way back among the Catskills has proved herself equal to the occasion. When the orifice appeared, that threatened to make her ket- tle as useless as the “rift within the lute” she took a brass rivet, such as harness makers use for mending harness, ham- mered it gently in the hole, and the deed was not only done, but well done. Mutton suet fs one of the simple remedies which should have an honored place in every family’s medicine closet. For chap- ped hands and lips, or for cuts and bruises, it is always useful. The suet may be pro- cured at the butcher's, tried out at home, and while still warm poured into little jars or molds to cool. Turn out and wrap in tinfoil. Camphor ice may also be made by meiting a small piece of camphor gum with the suet. ~ A common fault with scrambled eggs is that they are cooked so hard as to be tough and indigestible. If a tablespoonful of milk or water be added for each egg, and the mixture cooked only until creamy, stirring meanwhile with a fork, the result will be a@ dish both appetizing and wholesome. Serve with buttered toast. ALWAYS OF INTEREST Fashions Furnish a Fascinating Topic for Conversation. PRECEDENCE OF SERIOUS MATTERS | What Stylish Women in New York Are Wearing This Fall. RUSSIAN COATS AND BLOUSES (Copyright, 1807, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, October 21, 1897. GROUP OF Wo- men were sitting in the ladies’ smoking” room of a big hotel. They were not smok- ing, but had fled for refuge from a “pa- per” on “Ancient Art As Practiced By the Inhabitants of the *Moon.” This paper was being read, in an BZ adjoining room at Va the monthly “social” meeting of a wo- man’s club to which they belonged. ; “It is very instructive,” said a small per- son in brown, “but I &m tlérd. Mrs, Up-to- Date, what is the newest thing in clothes?” “The freshest fact have,” said Mrs. Up- to-Date, “is that Miss Lives-on-the-Wheel has let her skirts down. E saw her in the park this morning.” Miss Lives-on-the-Wheel looked guilty, but defiant. “Yes, I, know,” she said, “I vowed I would never ride in a dress that came below the kneés, bit I didn’t count on these new tartan’ stockings. The min- ute I saw them I planneg,a cycle skirt to come to the ankles.” “It's too bad,” she went on, while the other women tried to look sympathetic; ‘I rode in bloomers ih the beginning; they are so safe and so comfortable, and for a little time they were really recognized as the fit and proper costume for cycling. But when everybody began to ride, bloomers were used in such a way that they got a black eye. It nearly broke my heart, but I put on skirts, with most other women. I had them short and they were not such a great iding, especially when women n to have the sense, as I thought it, to leave off leggins, and stiff high boots and to ride, with free ankle action, in stock- ings. “But stockings are the death of short- skirt riding. When you see bright scarlet and blue and green plaid legs out on the roads, wheeling is too much of a free va- s and even the women who are n tan and gray and black, are going to feel themselves a part of a con- tinuous performance outfit and take to bi- cycle dresses as long as Englishwomen’s. Another Way. “I'll make a bet with you, Mrs. Up-to- Date,” wound up Miss Lives-on-the-Whceel, energetically; “next spring we will all be riding in skirts as long as walking dre: and struggling to look pleasant and think we like it. If our "Arries and ‘Arriets will make barber poles of their legs, there is, for the rest of us, another way “Long or short, Miss Lives-on-the- Wheel's bicycle outfit is always the neatest on the road,” said Mrs, Up-to-Date, in a conciliatory manner. “She was wearing a rough gray and black mixture yesterday, warm-looking and just the thing for cold weather. The skirt and coat both were braided with black very effectively. Under the coat she wore a scarlet silk vest or blouse; that was the only touch of bright color about her. She had a little black cap and black shoes and stockings.” “It seems to me,” said the small person in brown, who had started the conversa- tion, “‘that nobody nowadays talks any- thing but bicycle. Mrs. Bore-em, who Is reading the paper, has a dress that looks quite novel.” . “Yes,” said Mrs, Up-to-Date, “Mrs. Bore- em always brings out a costume when she is brought out on the program. The one she is wearing today is of old rose cash- mere. Did you notice the length of the skirt? It has a decided dip in the back: all the dressier models are coming that way. Skirt and Bodice. “But the newest thing about that dress is the way the skirt is cut down at the top in front and bodice is cut up, to correspond. There is a pleated front of pale green taf- feta that shows below the belt and a little way above it and looks as if it had slip- ped down from where it belongs, unless you happen to know that it is quite the thing at present to have decollette skirts and guimpe or bertha hip pieces. It’s not such a bad freak, but not one to last long. Skirt and bodice have white applique trim- mings and there arg full’ pleatings about the hem. Z “Mrs. Haunt-the-Skops, * have se the new brocades?” Zorereen “Yes; they are capital; qliite the best ma- terials brougnt out thfs fall.” Mrs. Haunt- the-Shop bent forward in her chair. “The moire velvet is lovely endugh to go down on one’s knees to it.” Some of it is striped with pink or blue ieee ona white ground. But the prettiest piece of goods I have see: Se one ce cponee brs telles, thick and soft aise 3 a pale green." ssa design On white “There is a women inside, to the righ the president's chair, who is wrenting a beautiful brocade, hahdsome enough for a reception gown,” said the small person in brown. “It is a silver gray, satin, figured in the same color. Thé skirt is demi-train and has a wide pane] of cream guipure on each side of the frant. The back of the skirt is trimmed with narrow ruffies, and the front with guipure ruffles above gauze. The guipure skirt panela run up on the bodice and make fronts, opening on a vest of white mousseline. There is a straight collar ruched with mousseline and fastened by a lace jabot. That's all, I guess, except a violet velvet toque with black feathers. “Tell me, Mrs. Up-to-Date, what do you think of the Russian blouse?” Originality in Detafis. “I think,” said Mrs. Up-to-Date, “that, as in the case of everything that everybody wears, it is necessary to have originality in details. The prettiest blouses I have seen are those belonging to smooth cloth dresses, where the cloth is worked in open- work embroidery; but good work of that kind is very dear. You-can trim with lace and fur. I have seen one costume of that sort in a very pale gray cloth, verging on mauve; it was most elaborately embroid- ered and trimmed with guipure and sable.” “The girl who sang before Mrs. Bore-em’s paper has a very good Russian blouse,” put in a good-looking matron of fine figure; “She has no more voice than poor Mrs. Bere-em, but that black and white small- checked tweed was cleverly managed; did you notice? The blouse has revers, belt, collar and cuffs, all of black velvet, with a piping of turquoise velvet. The bodice pouches only a little; the worst of a good many Russian blouses is, they are positive- ly baggy. There is a pretty vest and a cravat of blue chiffon. I didn’t notice the skirt very particularly; I think it has a band of black moire, piped with turquoise.” Blouses and Coats. “There was a handsome Russian blouse in a theater box opposite me last evening,” the small person in brown contributed to the discussion. “It was made of green and cerise striped silk, with revers and finish- ings of black satin. The skirt was nothing but a yoke of the stripes, with three wide flounces of black set on below; two flounces were satin, the middle one velvet.” “I like the Russian coats better than the dress blouses,” said a tall blonde with heavy pale yellow hair. “My sister-in-law has one in hunter’s green. It has revers of cream-colored satin covered with jet em- broidery and Jet ornaments around the armholes, simulating a bolero. The fronts, the basque and the collar are edged with chinchilla. It is made with box pleats in the back over a draped belt of velve “The coats are good,” said Mrs. Up-to- Date, “but did you notice the cape the president nad on this afternocn? It was black velvet, cut pointed in front; early Victorian, you know. It had a high collar, a boa and four rows of skunk for trim. ming.” “See here, Miss Mum, you haven't said a word this hou “Miss Mum” was a roly-poly brunette. “I am too busy fixing over my old clothes,” she said, “to know much about new one: Skirts that are trimmed so much are handy for poor people. I have just taken a fawn- colored cloth skirt that was a little soiled and trimmed it with heavy sloping lines of black velvet, from the kip down. Then I put a lot of velvet on the bolero. You have no idea how much it is freshened. Nothing but Fashions, “I have taken all of my summer waists, silk ones, I mean, and covered them with chiffon to wear this winter, evenings. They will be out of style next summer and I mean to get the good of them.” “That is ell very well,” said Mrs. Up-to- “for a clever person like you. I saw velvet toque this morning—here 5s. Bore: n. d your paper so much, dear; it was so very instructiv The tall blonde and the small person in brown went away together from the club meeting. “I get out of patience, don’t you,” said one, “with people who can talk nothing but fashions?” “Yes, indeed; they are tedious. What shall I have my dressmaker do with a piece of primros€ brocade? I’ve got some sable fur and turquoise embroidery.” ELLEN OSBORN. es sing in the English Schools. From Harper's Round Table. In former times much of the discipline was administered by the head master. A certain Dr. Keate, who was head master toward the middle of this century, is cele- brated for his floggings. A characteristic instance occurred when a very popular boy, named Munro, was dismissed from school for refusing to be flogged. At the next “ab- sence,” when his name was omitted from the roll-call, his friends set up a shout of “Munro! Munro! Beco! boo!” In punish- ment for this they were told to come daily to an extra absence. This they decided not to do, and also determined not to be flogged for it. Keate very craftily waited until after “lock-up,” when the boys were scattered in the various boarding houses, and then sent the assistant masters to fetch them for punishment in relays. Some of the boys tried to organize resistance by shouting from the windows: “Don’t be flogged! We haven’t been flogged!” but the relays kept coming in to Keate until after midnight, and all but two of the boys were flogged—over eighty in all. According to tradition Keate was positively fond of us- ing the birch. On one occasion, it is said, the names of a batch of candidates for con- firmation were by mistake sent to him on a “pill” like that used for reporting beys for punishment. The boys tried to explain the matter, but Keate only flogged them the harder for what he considered an irreverent trick to escape punishment. All this hap- pened in the time when the boys lived under “dames” in the boarding houses. ——_+0e. Leaves Better Than Lightning Rods. From the London Echo. The green leaf is the best conductor of electricity—thal most powerful and des- tructive of all the forces of the earth. To guard our homes and public bulldings from its destructive action, we erect our light- ning rods, whose sharp points quietly drain the clouds, or, failing to do this, receive the discharge and bear it harmlessiy to the earth. But ages before Franklin pointed the first lightning rod to the storm, God has surrounded the dwellings of man with a protection far more effectual than this; for since the creation of organic life every pointed leaf and blade of grass have been silently disarming the clouds of their de- structive weapons. A twig covered with leaves, sharpened by Nature's exquisite workmanship, {s said to be three times as effectual as the metallic points of the pest- constructed rod. And when we reflect how mary thousands of these vegetable points every large tree directs to the sky and con- sider what must be the efficacy of a single forest with its innumerable leaves, or of a single meadcw with its countless blades of grass, we see how abundant the protection fiom ‘the storm is, and with what care Providence has guarded us from the des- tractive fo ce. ———_+e+—____ If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you will get an answer. | I | HERE is a maid, of whom 'tis said She’s bright yet unassuming, Though shapely arms and other charms Might make her quite presuming. But she herself, the saucy elf, Smiles at the praise allow’d her, Andsaystheglowher bright checksshow All comes from using Powder— It’s in the cakes her mother makes, ‘Tis Cleveland’s Baking Powder. |FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN What to Wear for Golfing and Wheel- ing. One Costume Does for Both if It is a Correct One—Shoes The tremendous popularity of golf has made a suitable skirt, at least, a necessity and the economical woman uses the same suit-for golf that she dons when she mounts her bicycle. The consequence has been a desire to make extremes meet, and as for golf, one is not obliged to wear an exceedingly abbreviated skirt, the bicycle skirt has had to come down. Smart bicy- cle skirts, therefore, are made only five Inches shorter than the skirt ordinarily worn, and if there are a number of acci- dents during the next six months from skirts catching in guards while wheeling Dame Fashion must shoulder the blame. The union of wheeling and golf suits means, also, that the divided skirt has had its day. The circular skirt, too, has been relegated to the past, as it was found to sag on both sides after being worn a short time. The skirt worn by women who play golf a great deal and ride a bicycle once in a while Is a straight, five-gored skirt, with one front and two ‘side gores and two straight widths in the back, laid in two pleats. But the true devotee of the wheel, who looks upon all other pastimes as slow, will sfill wear a divided skirt, at least eight inches shorter than her dre choosing the make which experience has shown to be the most satisfactory on the wheel and the least objectionable off of it. These divided skirts are often quite ex- pensive, as they are usually patented, and often the patent is in the hands of some high-priced tailor. Generally, however, it will be found that he allows some !ower- priced firm to make his s taking a royalty from them, and ligent search one can save many dollars y thirty or more, as the best tailors do not make bieycle suits under $45. Many women have been quite succe with home-made bicycle suits, following a good pattern and having a seam der their own eyes. This is not greati; ommended, for cloth requires a tailor’ ish, but if it is done be sure and have the cloth sponged first, as the vicissitudes of outdoor sports are many; keep several very hot irons on the stove and have constant pressing the order of the day. Even then the lining is apt to be unsatisfactory A straight skirt has no incentive to stay in place during a wind storm, and leaden welghts add greatly to the heft of cloth So an ornamental and sensible fashion has been devised. The skirts are stiteh d round and round for eight inches up from the bottom. This has a quilted effect and is said to keep them in ptace quite effect- ually. Real Cont With Pockets. The bicycle coat is made of the same ma- terial as the skirt, and is at least two inches longer than those worn in the spring. Instead of a fly front it is double breast=1, with large bone buttons in evidence, and numberless little pockets for the many strange pocket pieces which have become necessary to the up-to-date woman since she took to the wheel. Corduroy, cheviot and tweeds, as well as very heavy cloths, are used for these coats and skirts. The three first named are ge erally preferred at present, as the heavy cloths, although beautiful to look upon, have been found rather warm, even in fall or in winter. The most popular suiis this fall are made of a smooth, dark cloth, with a small check of black and dark green, and are seen so often that one begins to fear bicyclists are not pining for originality of design. The golf skirt is generally made of chev- jot, and one of the fetching red i: with brass buttons is considered nec to complete the uniform, for uniform it is, and proud are the devotees of the game to wear it. For the waram days which are sure to come under climes farther south than the metropolis during the next three months corduroy waist with a skirt of mixed gocds or of some small check is espe beccming and comfortable. If one prefers, however, to wear a jacket, it will be found necessary to wear a cotton waist when the mercury mounts. Flannel shirt waists are very much in vogue, but should be made with less material than those wor: with other costumes. Sweaters are no longer fashionable, they were never particularly smart, but the sen- sible bicyclist will not let this deter her frem having one if she has found it the best waist for riding. As ail coats for either golf or other out- door sports have turn-over collars, the dressing of one’s neck is a matter of par- ticular care. Stocks of gay plaid are very comfortable, hunting stocks which require no collar, but do require, so it is said, the teuch of an Englishman to make them look presentable. White collars with string ties, also of plaid, are much worn, and plaid rib- bons which go about twice and tie in front, in the manner of a stock, are bright and pretty. Ascots are among the newest and therefore most worn ties. “Any color, so it’s plaid,” is the order of the day in ties. Shoes Strong and Spiked. ‘The golf shoe is a matter by itself, and a serious one, both as to chgice and price. The soles must be spiked or barred, either with leather cr brass. The most approved shoe is about two inches higher than a walking boot, with a thick sole studded with leather and reinforced vamps and toes. They fre russet or brown in color, and wog to the inexperienced woman who thinks to wear them with ordinary flimsy Lisle thread stockings, dear to the heart of the dainty. They require heavy merino stock- inge, or at the very least a heavy cotton er silk. Bicyclists are divided between very high boots, golf stockings and ties and boots of the ordinary walking height. Many instructors insist that the ankle mo- tion must not be interfered with, and this makes the golf stocking the only possible one for cooler weather. High gaiters are often worn instead of high boots by those who are net committed to the golf stock ing. It all seems to be rather a mi of choice. The noble game of golf is hampered by gloves, but bicycle gloves are earnestly recommended for every one. Dogskin or chamois gloves, and especially those made from deerskin, and known as “mocha” gloves, are considered the best. It should be borne in mind that they shanld be at least two sizes larger than those fcr ora Ginary occasions. MABEL BOYD. — MODERN CORSETS, ter | From Harper's Bazar, The French corset, most artistic an@ nearest to the natural form, has very deep bust gores. If the inserted vamps are not there, the gored seams are cut to make that effect. In the special models which claim to be becoming to stout figures the gore runs down to the waist-line without any secondary gores, thus forming the pc culiar V shape shown in the cut. The fu ness comes directly over the base of the lungs, or, rather, solar plexus This ts the type of a singer's figure. The plexus is the erious reservoir ter of nervous strength, and it is @ curious fact that no figure looks poor and feeble if it shows a well-rounded fullness t this point, directly eath the end of the breastbone. The new models of French corsets have a sudden spring or curve below the waist-line, somewhat like the hips of the well-known Mrs. Noah of Noah's Ark. This springing viva- curve is repeated in all of the new skirts. It is required by the belted set, in some cases but nine inches deep. either a long or short gore. It is wo it n for riding, evening dress, bicycling. swimming, or any “fatigue uniform. well adapted to the lissome shirt w cause the ends of the whalebone too much in evidence. The third model shown is the English style of corset, which is cut with two shor breast gores on either side, setting th bust as high as possible, producing a lo slim waist. With the exception of the English m all of the new corsets are built on the lin of the new ideal figure, which is draped with girdle, sash or belt. All modes now, it 1s ist, be- are not % except the loose jacket, show the waist-line in full vie In every gown there is this lin Woe to the igure which by reason of flesh or squareness does not accommo- date itself to this sine qua non! The French design, particularly in the shorter corsets, is best for all of the fluffy, frilly» French gowns, and, as I said before, it sets nearer to the natural figure. It permits the grace- ful slope of the bust and shoulder, and 1 that means throws the head in a pose mon jeserene and dignified. But it does not look quite so well as the English model for trim reefers, jackets and tailor gowns. The English model is trim and natty, smart and stylish, but apt to be a little weoden at the same time. This gives square shoulders; it distorts a drooping bust, mak- ing it flaccid and shapeless instead of youthful. It thrusts the arms away from the figure by means of the long whale- bones. and A woman comme it faut will have her corsets made to order or fitted to her figure, for a stylish, well-fit- ting corset and shapely petticoat al- ways give an inde- scribable air of cle- gance to the simplest gown. The high bust and long waist, or the low bust and short waist, the full figure or the slender figure—these are the chief varieties of ready-made cor- scts. But in real life no two figures are alike; there are numberless other changes of measurement, such as the curve of the breastbone, the ribs, shape of the shoulder blades, set of backbone into the pelvis, every part of the bony frame, as well as the viscera and flesh; in some the waist line is curved, in others straight. The same kinds of ready-made corsets are different each year, so that no special make can be relied on. The up-to-date corset-maker adapts his cut more or less to the prevailing mode, but yet fits the figure perfectly. Such cor- sets wear better, and always looks a great deal better. —_->—— Stimulus to Exertio: From the Philadelphia Record. “Yes,” safd the man, “I realize that cycling is a great thing. I used to be slug- gish before the cycle craze, but now I'm spry and energetic.” “I didn’t know you rode.” “I don't. I dodge. ——e0—_____ If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you will get an answer. ————— =a “Now, then, Patrick, s' and bring them: to the notice they will make a sensation.” i “Shades of Cotton Mather, read those signs!”