Evening Star Newspaper, October 2, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 2, 1897-24 GES. HY, DEBUTANTE’S EVENING TOILETTE. FOR WINTER MONTHS |: A Gown Designed for Wear on Dress _ Occasions. “WADEOF PINK TULLE OVER PINK SATIN | ——__ + The Bolero Must Share Honors: With the Russian Blouse. een PARENT MATERIALS} ee by S. M. Baldwin.) ening Star. THE HAGUE, September 20, 1897. with pleasure that we submit to our +fAmerican readers information bearing on the styles to be prominent during the win- ter months. As the gay world is then par- ticularly interested in gowns for dress oc- evsions, we have designed our model in accordance. Its dainty airiness fits it par- ticularly for the wardrobe of thi¢ season’s “bud,” although by slight changes af ma- terials and colors it adapts itself equally well to the belle of several seasons or to the young matron. Pink tulle over pink satin forms the sub- stance of our model. The pink satin foun- ion skirt is covered entirely by a closely gathered drop skirt of pink tulle, which is encircled below the knee by five rows of pink tulle flounces, which reach to the hem } of the skirt. The blouse waist of gathered kK tulle over a tight satin lining, has a S juare decoliete, which is edged over the short full puffs of tulle, which envelop the upper arm. Rows of wide velvet ribbon of a# darker shade than the tulle and satin ex- tend vertically from the back and under the arms of the waist, being there confined by a girdle of a good imitation of pearls and clasp of simili, and from there extend- ing further to the hem of the skirt. Each ribbon is held at the ruffles on the skirt by a butterfly bow of the same ribbon fas- tened by a buckle of simili. The throat is entirely covered by a wide collar of rows of pe: finished the neck by a hand- seme diamond buckle. These high, tight cellars, composed of rows of pearls (or dia- mcends, but pearls are preferred), are a new feature for evening toilets, high-necked or decollete. Dinner gowns with high yekes of unlined lace are seen with this new neck adornment, which replaces the 5 Stiff standing, or ribbon collar, heretofore deemed essential; so the belt’ (if any is .. ¢¥orn) follows the form of the jewel collar, * “except that good imitations are more ad- missibie in the former. Our model presents the advantage of being easily copied in a variety of materi: With a black satin foundation covered by inexpensive black silk talatan interwoven with gold or sil- ver threads, the ruffles must be of the same material and the ribbon must be of black, red, or green velvet. If the black satin fseen on the newest gowns, and best au- under-waist is cut decollete, the metai- | d tarlatan may be made high-necked a collar and girdle of silver or gold will lessen the expense, while not de- ng from the original style of the gown. The revival of the glace mitts, as our grandmothers wore them, only so much prettier and longer, the wrinkled length reaching in fact below the shert shoulder puff, will be gladly welcomed by the long- | suffering woman who has sadiy lost her patience when struggling with her long evening gloves while partaking of some dainty offered at balls, receptions or soirees. Trese mitts are as pretty as they | are practical—they set off coquettishly the ! very finger tips and give room to rich rings. They are worn very wrinkled and in shades to match the costume, being sometimes Tichly embroidered, lace inserted, or be- decked with semi-precious jewels or span- gles. In admiring these costly toilet ac- cessories, we think of the time when Cath- erine de Medici first introduced just such jeweled hand coverings to her wondering court, and Elizabeth of England was the first in her land to hide her ugly hands in priceless gloves, which cost a fortune in those days. Black gloves have lately also made an effort to force themselves in- to public favor; but with poor success. Everything points to a strong season for transparent materials. Chiffons, mousse- lines, gauzes, nets, onstitute evening gowns and trim day dresses. Jet and beautifully shaded beaded goods in designs reflecting floral figures or row upon row of bayaderes, or waved inserting effects, are thorities indicate many strictly new forms of employment on bodice skirt and sleeves, Dotted, sprigged and plain black nets are used over half-worn and new silk gowns, white being especially stylish; insertions of lace are let in the skirt, sleeves and around waist. Te supply a touch of color, there is the folded belt of pink, green, turquoise or yellow satin. Turquoise taffeta as an evening toilet is enriched with a velvet belt and epaulettes of darker velvet and simili buttons, Silks with a narrow black stripe have belt and shoulder bows of black velvet and a fichu drapery of white net or chiffon. This is a pretty manner of remodeling svring gowns for house wear during the all. Since the modern skirt has lost its sim- plicity, silk evening gowns will look well with fronts and panels of mousseline de soie worked in silks, spangles, beads and Jewels. The designs are floral and jet; pink and green are prominent effects. The bolero no longer reigns supreme, since it Is compelled to share honors with the Russian blouse. Yet the former bids fair to remain with us a long time yet, par- ticularly for evening wear. A tea gown of white and turquoise blue changeable taffeta has a tiny bolero of white kid em- broidered in pearls, turquoises, gold simili and coral in Byzantine pattern. It is de- signed for a bride, and is very much ad- mired among the many exquisite gowns which constitute her trousseau. QL A. Vocets The Hague) A RAINBOW IN THE MOONLIGHT. A Perfect Specimen of This Rare Phenomenon Seen at Nahant. From the Boston Evening Transeript. The great lunar rainbow seen from the heuses on the cliffs at Nahant and along Marginal road on the night of a recent =freat_storm was, on the word of an 3 ‘tronomer, a most unusual, as it was a most splendid and impressive, sight. Halo rain- bows about Lady Lunar or bits of rain- bow on “the little clouds sailing around the moon” are not uncommon, but a fuil bew spanning the heavens is not often seen by night. It needs a full and brilliant troon and a smart shower. The one which hung in the heavens above Swampscott ach Bluff showed with peculiar ra- ross the water to the people ct whose backs were to the big bright moon that came out of her fiyirg storm clouds long enough to show a quar- ter hour of the phenomenon. The red and blue in the great bow were fairly pro- nounced, the orange was fainter and it re- quired help from the imagination to distinguish any of the other four prismatic colors before the rainbow began to fade. Then‘ the most distant right end of it glow- ed with increasing yet “ineffectual fires.” Ii a “rainbow at night is the sailor's de- light,” ‘tis surely the solar baw which is so often seen before sunset. The astron- omer who has never seen but one full arching moonbow in his observant career notes that the chances are few indeed for mortals to observe this glory of the Lady Luna. In the first place, there must be a full moon, and there are only about thir- ty-six chances: in a year, a tenth of the chances to see a solar rainbow, and these may be quartered by the fact that most people are rot up all night, as they are an day. If there were quite as many moonbows as sunbows proportionately ; and this is improbable—we have only onc- fortieth as much opvortunity to observe them. % Constantia—“Oh, Uncle Burleigh, it's perfectly wonderful! She told me the most extraordinary things about myself! She said I was born a twin, and lost both my parents at the age of five, and Inherited an Sir Burleigh McGarel, G. C. B.—“But, to the best of my recollection, none things are so.” ~' es Constantia Se @uzzied.) “But isn’t that extraordinary t enormous fortune from a very fair man! Jost! what makes it HOUSEHOLD HINTS A Few Simple but Valuable Princi- ples of Domestic Science. SUGGESTIONS FOR LATE PRESERVES A Recipe for Old-Fashioned New England Gingerbread. FOR THE SICK oS COOKING The preserved fruits cf Constantinople have long been celebrated, not orly for their luscious flavor, but for their perfect form and beauty of colorirg. A pvimt in their preparation may serve as a peg for western housekeepers ‘to herg new ven- tures on. Several hours before the preserv- ing proper, the frults are carefully peeled and dropped into a large jar of cold water, in which a double handful of lime has been dissolved. This renders the fruit firm and compaci, so that it does not break during the cooking process, preserves the color in all its original beauty and at the same time is a certain preventive of the entrance of germ life. A rich sirup of sugar and water cr honey and water is ther made, and, when boiled clear, the fruit is dropped in. About five minutes before removing the fruit from the fire, a small bunch of rose geranium leaves is dropped into the kettle. The richer preserves aesigned for holidays are put up in small cut glas with pa- pers pasted over the top, while the sweets for every-day use are placed in earthen jars, resembling the old Komar amphorae. ‘The choicest sweets are those made from the “‘fishne,” or sour cherry, the grape, or rose leaves; while for the commoner use, various fruits are used in combination. A favorite mixture is composed of egg plant, cut in small bits, ripe figs and grapes. Frequently squash or tomatoes are added to the melange, with the results most sat- isfactory to the favored participant. a On no one thing is the comfort of an in- valid more dependent than on the careful making cf the bed. Anything that makes a eper restless takes so much from his strength. The bed to be perfect should support all parts of the body equally. Wire springs and a good hair mattress do this. The covers should be light, warm and washable. Woolen blankets are preferable in these respects to all other coverings. The sheets should be at least two and three-quarter yards in length when finish- ed, that they may be tucked in under the mattress and at the foot. This is specially important for nervous pecple, to whom a& wrinkle or a movement of the sheet may mean the loss of a night’s sleep. Blankets should be put on with the opening at the top that part of the cover may be easily turned back if the sleeper is too warm. The pifiows should not be filled too full, and the © should fit loosely. If the patient is at all sensitive to cold, both sheets and pillow czses should be of cotton, as linen chills. In putting on the upper sheet, leave the lower pert a little loos for the feet, and the upper part long enough to turn back over the blanket. The counterpane should be the same length as the sheet, to fold over; but the blanket not so long. If the patient is very ill, the lower sheet should be pinned in place, and a draw sheet laid across the bed, reaching from the shoulders to the kn@€s. This can readily be changed if desirable. With the pouring out of the treasures of autumn, spiced grapes again become a beneficent factor to add to the housekeep- er’s store of “good things to eat.” Select grapes with thin skins, and if not entirely ripe, so much the better. The last few pickings of the Isabellas are especially good for this purpose. Press the pulp from the skins and cook the pulps in one granite or porcelain kettle with a little water until the seeds separate from the pulp. Cook the skins in another kettle with a little water until quite tender. Poss the cooked pulps through a colander which holds the seeds, and add the strained liquor to the skins. Now measure the grapes and allow to four pounds of the fruit two pounds of sugar, one pint of cider vinegar, and cinnamon, cloves and allspice to taste. Cook on back of range until rather thick, and if the glass cans have all been filled, pour in an earth- en jar. These keep indefinitely and prove & delicious and piquant accompaniment to the Sunday roast. In the matter of milk supply New York has occasion to feel that she is abreast of the times, and that her system of milk in- spection is now as near perfect as possible. Milk permits are granted to venders of milk with the understanding that they re- main in force during the pleasure of the board of health, which revokes them on the second trial and conviction for the sale of “adulterated milk.” This phrase means milk containirg more than 88 per cent of water or fluid and less than 4 per cent of milk solids, or less than 3 per cent of fat; milk drawn from animals fed on dis- tillery waste; milk from which any part of the cream has been removed, and milk from cows kept in crowded or unhealthy places. That this system of inspection has been of immense value may be gleaned from the fact that in the samples of milk tested in 1895 39% cases of adulteration were discovered, while last year the in- spection and test showed only 233. To any one in whose breast there still lrger haunting memories of the topogra- phy of the genuine old-fashioned New Eng- land “card gingerbread,” that flourished during the early part of this century, there will come a feeling of thankfulness for this family recipe, handed down for several generations from mother to daughter: Two cupfuls of Porto Rico molasses, one cupful sugar, one cupful drippings (or half buiter and half larc), one cupful cold water, a dessertspoonful ginger, one tablespoonful soda, and flour to make @ rather soft dough. It may be baked ag of old, in sheets about two inches thick, barred ‘crosswise with the sharp edge of a tin, or rolled into cookies. In either case, it will be found an admirable concomitant to the morning cup of coffee; or an assuager of that “aching void” with which the small boy commonly returns from schcol. To make whole wheat bread—the quick process, as taught at Pratt. Institute Cook- ing School—add to one pint of thin oat- meal porridge one pint warm milk and two compressed yeast cakes dissolved in a little lukewarm water. Beat well; add again two rourded teaspoonfuls sugar, six level teaspoonfuls shortening, one rounded teaspoonful salt, and whole wheat flour until you can stir it no longer with the back of a knife. Cover lightly and set to rise. When twice its bulk, divide into small loaves, and again set to rise; then bake in a mcderate oven about forty min- utes. A nutritious and appetizing jelly to tempt the capricious appetite of an invalid—who rebels at broth and gruel—is made in this way: Take a quart of strong beef broth, without a particle of fat, and clear with the white and shell of one egg, as per bouil- lon. Season as you wish, with=celery seed and thin shavings from a half lemon; or with cinnamon and other spices, and’ set away to harden. Turn out on a pretty dish and serve while cold and firm. “Live and learn” was never more true then in the science of household econumies. Many old housekeepers have yet to dis- cover that egg shells dried and kept in a cenvenient receptacle near the kitchen sink will be found useful in the cleansing of carafes, bottles and vinegar cruets. Crush fine, partially fill the bottles with warm soap suds, add a handful of the shells, shake well and rinse. To remove stubborn rust spots from steel, put ofl and quick-lime on and leave for ev. eral days. Then rub with oll or rotten stone or Bristol brick. A strainer should never be wiped after Washing... Wash thoroughly, scald and hang up to dry. 3 —+-_—_—_ A Delicious Omelet Soufie. From the Ladies’ Home Jouroal. For an omelet souffle, separate six eggs, measure and sift three tablespoonfuls of pewdered sugar. See that the oven is hot and have everything in readiness. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth. Beat the yolks of three eggs; add them to the whites; add a grated rind of half a I ‘the and a tablespoonful of AFTER THE THEATER. TO DEFY THE COLD| Furs Play an Important Part in the Winter Wardrobe. COONSKINS WILL BE FASHIONABLE But Sable and White Fox Will Hold First Place. USED FOR TRIMMING GOWNS (Copyright, 1807, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, September 30, 1897. OONSKIN WILL take rank this win- able furs. Conspic- uous in a furrier’s exhibit of samples is a coonskin loose-fit- ting long coat, dou- ble-breasted and fas- tening with large pearl buttons. It has an enormous storm collar and a rich bro- cade lining. It reaches to the ground. Thig coat is put forward as the extreme novelty for carriage use and for traveling. Said a lady to whem the‘ garment was shown: “Not any, if you pleate. I’ve stumbled over stubby, ring-tailed coon- skin rugs ever since I was a child. Years ago one of our boys went south" hunting and came home with an ‘extraordinary number of coonskins, which he insisted should be made into rugs as. a lasting tes- timony to. his skill as a sportsman. He never had been known to hit a barn door at short range, and symptoms of revolt appeared in the household. These were smothered promptly and all the money on hand appropriated. Coon rugs stared us in the face till they reminded me of the multiplication table. In the end the truth came out that the hunter’s deadly weap- ons were the long bow ané dollar bilis. Thank you, there's one fashion in furs that I shan’t follow.” The sudden popularity of the fur has caused an advance in the price of coon- skins; but for thpse unattracted by the novelty sealskin, mink and broadtail will be as desirable as ever. Once more lace is used to contrast its cobwebby loveliness with the warm depths of fur, while jewel- ed belts will zone the waists of all those whose tastes—and purses—allow them to pecent this pleasant edict of Dame Fash- ion. Richest of AN. The leading fur this winter promises to be sable, richcst and most exquisite cf them all. A striking novelty in the way of a short shoulder cape of sable is made with an upright ruffle collar, with head, tails and paws nestling in the fur all around. A very full ruffile of real lace, as yellow old ivory, is set inside the fur vollar, and ends in a double jabot under the chin. The lining is an exquisite pink brocade. A longer cape reaches below the waist line. It has a storm cellar, to be turned up or down, and fastens at the throat with a hook and eye in diamonds. It is edged all about with a fringe of bushy sable tails. As a trimming for sealskin coats, sable wili be more highly valued than ever. It will also trim and line cloth driving coats and velvet and brocade evening mantles. By far the most beautiful cloak I have seeit this season was thrown on last night after the theater. It was worn by a tall wo- man, whese pink-and-white youth was wonderfully set off by the forget-me-not blue procade, over which were scattered clusters of pale pink roses, with green leaves. The roll collar of sable was fin- ished inside with frills of cream-colorea lace, and was continued down the front im long, narrow revers. The lining througu- out was sable. A Blouse of Seatnkin. The Russian blouse, or “moujik” jacket, is as new as anything in sealskin. A few days ago I saw one of the handsomest cloak models in New York try on a number of these usually becoming garments. The “moujik” jacket is pouched back and front, and calls for a belt to be worn just above the short basques that ruffle about the hips. The most effective of those displayed was fastened by six large oxidized silver buttons, set with torquoise, and was fin- ished at the waist by a turquoise and silver bell drawn down to a Bernhardt point in front. There were seven inches of basque to add warmth, and there was a tabbed collar. The blouse fronts opened at will, and were likely to be kept open most of the time, since when turned back they gave a pretty point de venise front liberty to ap> pear. The glossy black broadtail is used for mess jackets, for Russian blouse.coats and for long loose coats. Always it ts-a strik- ing fur. In the blovse form an interesting example pouches slightly over a‘black vel- vet belt, which is threaded through glitter- ing steel circlets, and fastens with a great crescent set with gray pearls and emer- alds. The little tabbed basquet suggesis the presence of a lining of. grayisilk shot | with green, the levely evénesvént color showing again at the left si@e, where the coat fastens in a series of tats over pleated silk, which ruffles into freédoni where it gets an opportunity. OF; ° There is a good deal of chftichilla in pros- pect, combined usually with’ sealkin, with gray velvet sometimes. Sonie people are waxing eloquent over a - sealfkin cape owned by the French dancer who has taken possession of New York. It*is‘sald to have a high frilled collar of chitichilfa, held in by a twist of gray velvet #nd & diamond crescent. It has epaulets also of the lovely gray fur. Chinchilia/ and ermine pure white and pale gray, ig.an experiment that in one or two instances at least has been thoroughly successful. ‘Trimmed With Mink. The usual- amount of mink is on the market. I have seen some smart tight-fit- ting, half-length coats trimmed with it. One in fawn cloth has a high mink collar, with three mink tails hanging down under the chin. I do not care for this fashion particularly; it looks. too much 9s if one had swallowed the animal. However, the coat in question has wide bretelles of mink that’ begin on the shoul and taper to the jeweled belt, from surpassing in beauty and in value even gray fox, never more highly”-valued. A noteworthy evening wrap is of dark green satin, brocaded with splendid lily blossoms in pale yellow and white, These are re- lieved by black-green foliage. The cloak is made with a great flat collar of ermine, edged with white lace. The wide sleeves have ermine bands and drooping lace ruf- fles. There is a sumptuous lining of er- mine. The muff of the season is big. It is drawn up at the top into a satin bow and a cascade of lace. Inexpensive shoulder capes are made entirely of mink or sable or Persian lamb paws. These are iined with brocade and finished with lace or ribbon. Ruffle collars in mink; twelve- talled necklets in the same fur and white- tipped fox boas to set over dark coats are among the mest rovel fur accessories. Fur-Trimmed Dresses. I have seen a few fut-trimmed dresses, green tweed and Persian iamb being one oi the best. A theater “party that burst into a restaurant last night for supper brought some good gowns. One, of old rose silk, was slightly trained. A band of Jeweled lace insertion edged the skirt be- hind and ran up on either side of the front to the waist Mne. Across the bottom of the front was a line of sable. The blouse bodice of old rose velvet was’ cut with a large square yoke of silk outlined with the jeweled insertion. The yoke was prolong- ed into epaulets, edged with sable. There was a high collar of unique shape made entirely of insertion and standing in @ flat ruffle of old rose ribbon. The large hat cf old rose velvet was trimmed with featacrs. A second costume was of fawn-color cloth, with the lower part of the skiri sprinkled with irregular spots of green vel- vet. A green velvet blouse, corselet belt and sleeves of cloth and a voke hat of brown felt, faced with green and trimmed with upstanding feathers, completed tbe outfit. A pink face cloth dress was charming. Its skirt was trimmed with bands and bars of golden Lrown velvet. The bodice was tucked round and round, and was fin- ished with a velvet belt ané collar-like top of brown and pink figured silk. This a'so had velvet garnitures. ELLEN OSEORN. YELLOW FEVER INOCULATION. Dr. Powell Offers to Submit to Inocu- = lation to Prove His Theories. From the Los Angeles Express. Dr. Thomas Powell, who came here from Columbia, Mo., last fall, and who, to de- monstrate his theories as to the cause, prevention and cure of disease, was inoc- ulated with the germs of tuberculosis, diph- theria, glanders and other virulent dis- eases usually attributed to bacteria, has addressed a communication to the state board of health, which meets tomorrow to consider precautions against yellow fever, as well as tuberculosis. He proposes to demonstrate the falsity of the current theory of disease in general by submitting under the surveillance of representative physicians to the introduction into his own system of the most virulent germs known to bacteriologists. The doctor ex- presses himself as emphatically desirous of a test with yellow fever germs, and of having all possible precautions taken against’ any opportunity for deceit on his part. a Blonde Indians, From the Obio State Journal One of the mysteries of Mexico is pre- sented by the Maya Indians, who inhabit the Sierra Madre mountains, in the lower part of Sonora. They have fair skins, blue eyes and light hair, and students of ethnology have always been puzzled to account for them. There is a tradition, however, that these Indians are the de- scendants of the crew and passengers of a Swedish vessel wrecked on the Mexican coast centuries before Columbus discovered the new world. But this tradition is found- ed on nothing more substantial than a folklore tale current among them that their ancestors came over the big salt water hundreds of moons ago. The Mexicans have never been able to conquer this people. Nominally, indeed, they are under Mexican rule, but really they are governed by their own chief, and whenever the Mexican government hus in- terfered with them they have taken up arms, getting the best of the scrimmage every time. Their nearest Indian neigh- bors are the Yaquis, and these two war- like tribes have reciprocity down to a fine point. Each helps the other when the Mexicans attack them. The Mayas live principally by the chase, although they cultivate some corn and garden truck. The men are large and well formed, and some of the women are remarkably handsome blondes. a Tofl Gates in Philadelphia. From the Philadelphia Press. Brooklyn, N. Y., spreads over the adja- cent country a good deal as Philadelphia does, and like this city, Brooklyn has in- cluded within its limits quite a number of ancient toll roads. Here the likeness ceases. Brooklyn has bought up the fran- chises of these turnpike companies and abolished the toll gates. This relic still survives in Philadelphia. In the suburban Portions of the city the toll-gate keeper still levies tribuce on all who pass that way, unless they walk. ————— Pinzza Amenities. From Pack. “TJs your sister’s husband coming down over Sunday?” “No; it’s too far.” “Too far! Why, the charm of this place is its accessibility! “Yes; but my sister is a widow.” NEW YORK CITY. The Oldest, Largest and Most Reliab! Human Hair Goods” Emporium in America. Established since 1858. UP-TO-DATE WOMEN FOR How the Tea Gown May Be Made Most At- tractive and Becoming. Neglige Costumes That Are Designed for Home Wear—Dainty Matinees —The Latest Modcis. Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. In these days of waists of cotton in sum- mer and silk in winter for everyday wear, much Is said and written about the import- ance of a “trim” appearance at the break- fast table, tiimness evidently being cor- sidered out of tne question without a high collar and a snug belt. The use of the tea gown is also carefully explained, until that beautiful garment is relegated to or.e’s boudoir, or whatever pretentious or unpre- tenticus name is applied to one’s private apartment. The tea gown has been abused, no doubt, and a neat shirt waist at a break- fast table is a refreshing sight, but there are other garments more alluring. There has been something of a revival of tea gowns among the fall openings. This may be due in part to the possibility of having a tight sleeve once mere. For it must be confessed that very bouffant sleeves and a very bouffant gown make al- most too much of a good thing. So every tea gown shown has a sleeve fitted to the arm to the shoulder, where it is capped by lace, silk or whatever scheme of design has beer carried out on the rest of the frock. Very rich materials and very delicate colors are the rule, as of old. One rather novel model had a yoke and sleeves of yel- low satin, covered with heavy lace of a large pattern. The rest of the gown was of striped, pink, yellow and white silk. The stripes were narrow. The selvedge of the silk was used at the top and the silk Was set on to the yoke with a wide piece standing out, narrow in the middle of the front ard back, and growing wider toward the shoulder. The effect was that of a sti quillirg of silk, standing up on the ycke. The silk was quite full back and front, finished with a short train, and only slightly confined by yellow satin ribbons coming from under the arms and knotting at the waist. The effect of the quilling would be better if there were no ribbon at all, and the gown hung full tc tLe hem. Another Model. A pale blue cashmere had a bias dart, which made it fit closely to the figure un- der the arms, but it hung full from the neck to the floor, both back and front. ‘The Watteau in the back, as is the case with mcst of them this year, was shirred into the neck and quite concealed the back of the gown, being as wide as the shoulders of the wearer. This is not quite as grace- ful as the double box plait, but one imust ave a change. The shirrings so poular during the sum- mer still continue in favor. One lovely gown of pale gray cashmere was quite full back and front, and shirred from the neck to the end of the arm socket. This confined it enough in the back, but in front it was held in place by ribbons of gray satin. A great number of gowns are shown with yokes and sleeves of one material, and body of another. A very handsome one had yoke and sleeves of lavender satin, tucked in inch tucks. The tucks began at the top ef the collar and continued to the end of the yoke, and proper fitting in such a case is not an easy matter. The sleeves, like all the tucked sleeves popular at pres- ent, fitted the arm rather snugly. The rest of the gown was made of light weight wool crepon, of the same shade of lavender. To avoid the old Mother Hubbard effect of shirring on the yoke with a neat little heading the crepon was cut pointed back and front, caught up.over the shoulders of the satin, and a fall of lace took away the severity of the sleeves and added to the trimming of the yoke. In the back the full- ness was gathered into a double box plea:. A white crepon tea gown was without a high collar, and was cut slightly square both back ard front. The fullness was held In place by three rows of shirring, and a full ruching of lace filled in the very modest opening at the back. This was not confined at the waist line. Decidedly Smart. A pale pink of bengaline silk was cut V- shaped back and front. ‘The back had a shallow Watteau plait. Coming from this plait and confining the fullness in front was a wide girdle of heavy lace. A nar- rower width of the same lace finished the neck, and the whole gown was quite as smart as one would be apt to see in a day's journey. Matinees are very dainty, and have one great point in their favor. If one has an engagement soon after the morning meal and wishes to be nearly ready, and yet not don the heavy cloth waist at once, they ere dainty and pretty, and quickly doffed in favor of the more formal bodice. The new models are generally tight-fit- ting with a full front, in imitation of the pouch effect. Many of them are of taf- feta or soft thin silk, with insertions of Valenciennes or other lace. The full fronts are jabots of the goods, seemingly length- ened fronts, which are allowed to drop in careless but graceful folds from the neck to the waist line. When purchased they are extremely expensive, on account of the novelty of the models, but a good dress- maker or a woman with clever fingers could easily fashion one, as they are sim- ply the old-fashioned dressing sSacque pat- tern, tight fitting, with insertions of lace, and a generous amount of lace and silk al- lowed for the pouch or jabot. The sleeves, which are alternate rows of silk and lace, are capped with a fall of lace, and there is @ row of lace around the short basque be- low the waist line. A Breakfast Garment. An olf model, but one which is always Lecoming, is a matinee quite 26 or 28 inches long, tight fitting in the back, and the full- ness in the front confined at the waist by a gay-plaldsnow so times made up into house gowns, or tea gowns, but the-question then comes to the the practical mind of them up to“wear in the house alone when quite suitable for out-of-door matinees [ART AND ARTISTS Mr. Hoburt Nichols has not been paying a great deal of attention tu painting dur- ing the hot weather, but has begun one jJarge canvas of a scene ng the canal, | out of which he hopes to m n exhibi- tion pietu * * * The National Sculpture Society announces @ competition for a first prize of a second prize of $2 to be civen by T. Kelly of New York for the best des for a sun dial. The competi sculptors only. ° x * Mr. A. B. Griffith took a short trip to Warrenton recently and did a little sketeh- ing while there. He brought home a water- * color scene of an old Virginia home at twilight. Behind the purple of the trees surrounding the house the evening clouds gathering in the sky, and he h. dled the yellow and green eff. water in the foreground very « x * Miss Alice Willoughby brought full portfolie of interesting sketche East Gloucester, Mass., where she spent the entire season. She devoted her atten- tion mainly to scene arves, around the w al especially s ng schooners against a bac ray wharf buildings. Of this material } there is an endi vari at Gloucester. * * * The Corcoran Art S mence work on Mcnuay, number of applications for cate that the school wil full as its working capacity will conv ently allow, as most of the former stu are returning, with the addition new ones. The night cla: will open on the first Monday large ber. There wili be little chang | courses offered or in the instructi Andrews being assisted fore b Lillian Cook in the drawing and water cclor classes. Prof. Andrews is hoping to j introduce a new feature into the work ot | the art school this fall in the shape of jc>hibition of the summer work of the nts, mestly, of course, of the wate Such an exhibition would sp interest, being an opportunity the display of individuality and originality, such as the work of classes cannot afford, * * .-* The first important exhibition of the sea- son at Mr. Fischer's galleries will be ope ed October 15, when he will show a fine cellection of carly English paintings. A keen appreciation for early Englisn art is growing abroad, and the demand for the best examples is uncimintshed, tb ers from the Pender colle, sold in London, bringing $75,000, $49,000 and $18,000, respectively. * * * Mrs. Senator Hansbrough, who, as Miss May Berri Chapman, has achieved a more than local reputation by her work beth as a writer and illustrator, has returned to the city, and, with her interest asd ability, will doubtless enter largely into the artistic life of the city. * x * Mr. E..F. Andrews has just returned from Europe, where he has been all sum- mer, having a gocd rest and seeing the important exhibitions. In London, in com- pany with Mr. V. G. Fischer, he saw that of the Royal Academy, which he considers was not up to its usual high standard, but he s much pleased with the international exhibition in Munich. * x Mrs. E. F. Andrews has worked steadily all summer at Lake George, and brought back a collection of sketches which speaks volumes for her industrious and «arnest study. Near the ond of her stay there she heid an extubition with Miss Moore, the daughter of Commodore Moore, at the la ter’s home, where rare and beautiful o jects of art from all over the world formed a charming setting for the exhibition of pictures aud for the afternoon tea which Was In progress meanwhile. A novelty was the hanging of sketches outside in the strong Jight of the large veranda, where the outdoor work could be seen to the best advantage. Mrs, Andrews’ summer work is entirely in water color, end her outdoor sketches show a great deal of atmosphere and sunlight in them. Many of these studies are bright with masses of flowers, targies of wild flowers in fence corners, or bicoming plants in garden nooks, and one of the most finished sketches, cne in which the values are very good, is that of a lecy carrying a red sunshade, who has stopped her walk in the midst of a mass of bics- soms. The scene has been carefully studied, and the handling is very free and simple withal. A wood interior with a tiny stream 1d broken footbridge in the foreground is satisfying in color 2nd com- position, and a scene at twilight of gray recks touched with misty violet shadows is in strong contrast with a hillside road that lies beneath a flood of sunlight. The sky is exceilent in this last, as also in an vnpretentious study of a i rm barn, which is very simpie x74 direct. Mrs. Andrews found the sketching material about Lake George fairly inexhaustible, and so fascinating that sne is hoping to have a country house of her own in that region another season. Soe ** Althougk Mr. Harold L. Macdonald hes ‘been in the city most of the summer, he has not devoted a great deal of time to painting. He has had a couple of por- traits on hand for some time, which are now well advanced. BEAUTY w DISTRESS Ma in atherwise beautiful woman is in dire Gistrese tecause ber halr is GHAY, faded. strcaked or BLEACHED.