Evening Star Newspaper, September 4, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, ». TAILOR-MADE GOWNS. Make Their Appearance Earlier Than Usual This Year. BOLITANS AND NEWMARKETS REVIVED Two Ga ments That Combine Com- fort and Elegance. = —_ FALL FASIIIONS their a pre the curious public efore to combine welcome th com- rein- e or Newm: is styli of € ermany as dessus” is th, violet satin. ia front it is like a glove. All the skirt falls in rk, the veen velvet ble for ant coat is trimmed black satin rosettes se bunches of violets, and the ele- will rm mhole of her h a bur pre ak also of black vel handsome h is lined It is loose nt lining at fold issuing nding from the m of the garment. . in bishop form, is quite large «i is gathered into a cuff elab- red with passementerie of rdle of is under th hort jacket {s very varied in form. couse jacket, the reefer and the Eton equally by fashion, and epied i ! ! LINCOLN AT GETTYSBURG. How He First Wrote His Famous! Speech. New York Tu f the n of the y at Gettysburg and Mr. ; fi address, delivered on that occa vyember 19, 1863, Gov. “ began ying that there had much diseussicn to how and when address was written, and he contin- “I can tell you ail about that. Of course I was there, and the President and his st had arrived and were at the Soon after his arrival, as we were around in the parlor, Mr. Lincoln thoughtful for a moment or two, then said: ‘I believe, gentlemen, the ittee are expecting me to say some- « here today. If you will excuse me I | Ko into this room here and prepare it.’ After a thme he returned, holding in his hand a large, yellow government envelope, he had written his address. gentiemen,’ he satd, I want to is to you to see if it will do; and down he read it to us, and then “w for your criticisms. Will tt do? io you say? several spoke in favor of it, and one or ommended it in strcng terms. ‘Well,’ © the President, ‘haven't you any criti- cis.ae? What do you say, Seward?” Mr. Seward made one or two sugges- . bearing on some slight verbal ges, which I believe Mr. Lincoln in- corporated. ““Now if you will allow me, gentlemen,” continued the President, ‘I will copy this looked on which are made in weight to suit the comfort of the wearer. A jacket to be worn independently of the gown is in fer form, tight at the . «nd double-breasted in front. It is le of dark ravy blue cloth, with rever: nd cuffs of dark maroon cloth and soutache. The sleeves are an im- leg o” mutton, and large gilt buttons ly enameled in red and blue serve ments as well as far use. h the exception of the jaunty cape boxcloth, untrimmed and_ Strictly the cape has become decidedly stead we have raked up the past ed the old dolman and placed it before the public in a new and Improved style, made of richest matertals, bedecked with embroid passemente: collar and edging of ostrich plumes or glit- tering with incrustated, for evening 3 in form the old-fashioned y Si “It is only when quite passed away that we are able to take an unprejudiced view of them, and we can but wonder when ours are subjected to unbiased criticism wheth- er they will stand the test as well as do those of long ago.” Rich Trimmings. The desire for glitter is by no means de- clining, since the trimming of outdoor as weil as indoor garments shows interwoven gold or silver threads, precious stones. These garnitures are ten combined with fur trimmings, as fur plays an important role in the new winter styles. As black will be the color par ex- re this fall and winter, sable and iskin will also rank foremost in fur trimmings. The tails of the Rus will make exquisite trimming for seal or velvet garments. They are, of course, very + @ set being seldom sold for less but American sable will be found itute in this capacity, as it is Ve and is put to no severe test nilla will be used as much this winter as last, as the color is approved of by Parisian taste, which would just now envelop the whole world of fashion in a ‘ian sable Chi ver fashionable and beauti- and will go well with any color and adapt itself to any form. A Stylish Fall Gown. the woman of fashion generally he- the autumn with a tailor-made gown, we send today a suggestion for a dress which meets all the requirements of the m. Tt is composed of strawberry se) colored broadcloth, and is richly decorated with silver embroidery and seal- skin. The skirt is lined with fraise satin, and is quite plain, with but one front gore, sides and back being cut in one, and gathered into box pleats at the A narrow strip of sealskin edges the t the back, while the trimming at at consists of a pointed plece of fraise-colored silk, richly embroidered with silver thread and edged with sealskin. The close-fitting jacket of fraise cloth opens with a square revers over a vest of pleated white mousseline de soie. The high, flar- ing collar of sealskin discloses at the throat a standing collar of pleated white mousse- line de sofe. The sleeves are a narrow leg ©” mutton in shape, and the cuffs, like the revers and decorations of the jacket, are oe aay cmc mmroidered) silk edged with seal- skin. (ULLMANN & STRAUSS, Frankfurt A.M) off,” and again withdrew and made a copy ’ continued the governor, “if I had td wit enough about me to have begged of him that yellow envelope, what a trophy it would have been. How much it would have been worth to some of the ladies’ fairs which a little later began to be held to raise money for the hospitals and the soldiers. But I did not think of {t then.” 1 suppose this ought to put at rest the question as to when and where this won- derful address was written. I have given the above account in almost the exact words of Gov. Curtin. Lightning Kept the House Vacant. From the Loutsville Evening Post. Not far from Hodgenville stands an old house which has a wonderful power for the attraction of lightning. It is in an un- used field, surrounded by shrubbery and undergrowth. It is only the frame of a once costly dwelling, and has been stand- ing there for forty years. Strange as it may seem, it has been ‘uck by lightning every time an electrical storm has visited that section. The house was erected by a well-to-do farmer years ago, and was intended for a dwelling for his family, but had to be de- serted on account of its habitual subjec- tion to lightning. It has never since been occupied. During a thunder storm one per- petual flash of lightning plays about the old house. On a dark night, and during a storm, a more beautiful scene could not be found. The whole sky and earth around the old house {fs brightly illumined by the lightning. The house has been torn away, strip by strip, with each bolt of lightning, until now only a small portion-is left stand- ing. So far as is known, no fatalities have ever occurred in the house. HOUSEHOLD HINTS New Ways to Ease the Domestic Grind. NOTE THE WAY THAT BABY GROWS How to Meet an Emergency and an Unexpected Guest. A DAINTY OMELET —— + Writien for The Evening Star. While the majority of “city folk” are be- ginning to turn their faces homeward, away from sea and mountain and homely farm house, for those able to remain yet longer in the country through September and early October, there is yet the “best of all the game.” The chofcest fruits are ripening now—Juicy melon, the gold and purple plums, mellow harvest apple and spicy grap, while luscious peach and pear turn soft cheeks to the sun. In the woods the scarlet barberry with thorny fingers seeks entangling alliances with the passer- by, and the rich-fruited elderberry speaks to country children, at least, of pies and cordial. The air is full of the sweetness of the ripening buckwheat and garnered grain. The cat-tails in the meadow are Just dry enough to be gathered and soaked in cil under the guidance of scme careful elder to be planted in front of the porch to illumine the night with their fiar torches, while the acorn cups and saucers@| furnish infinite delight to small people on woodland heusekeeping intent. All along the roadside—the flame-colored bit weet Winds in and out among sup- porting branches, and bursting milkw pods reveal their gossamer treasures. Hap- py the mother who can lead her chi among these riches of the autumnal se son, teaching them, with wide-opened, ob- servant eyes to “keep record of the changes by which nature marks the ebb and flow of the great ocean of sunshine which over- spreads the earth.” Three times a day, twenty-one times a week, and a thousand and cight times a ar, is the table set in nearly every home in the land; practice enougn one would think for every one to become perfect in the art. Yet, in some houses the lesson "ms never to have been learned; and cloth and dishes might have been fired at the table for all the order or symmetry visible in their arrangement. While with some people the “gentle art of dining’ re- selves itself into mere feedings, with the majority the purity of the table linen, the cleanness of the glass, the brighiness of the silver, and a general air of order and daintiness’ are Is if “good digestion waits on app Make the table as bright and dainty as possible. There is no excuse now for ugly, plain china, when you can_ get dainty things for the same price. Pick up cups und saucers here and there, and pretty in- dividual sure, plates for dessert. Food, to be is necessary for the body; but as e not mere animals, we should have as pretty things about us as possible. In setting the table a thick sflence cloth or cotton-flannel should be placed under the tablecloth, to deaden the sound. The table linen should be as fine as the purse allow Poor, sleazy damask never looks well, and does not pay; while good table linen al- ways looks well, even if darned. In set- ting the table the cloth must be put on perfectly true and ever. Place the center ornament, and put the plates the proper distance apart. Many think approximately near quite suffi ; but the spaces should be perfectly accurate. If the eye is not true, measure for a few times with a yard- stick, until the eye is educated. Knives and spoons should be placed at the right, forks at left, having the handles just reaching the edge of the table, the knife with the sharp edge in, and the fork turned down. Tumblers should be placed at the right, and at the point of the knife. The napkins, if fresh, can be placed in the plate, or at one side; individual butter or bread plates at left. All food should be placed in proper position and kept there during the meal. Service should be as ss as possible. Large dishes, like . should be carried in the hand on a folded napkin in passing, and small dishes on the tray. The weiter should stard at the left of carver, and all service should be at the left of the guests, as less likely to interfere. While statistics, as a rule, are the dryest of reading, a notable exception is found in the data connected with the advent and growth of King or Queen Baby. Every mother, especially the one brand new to that responsible position, is bound to find more of interest in the’ tabulated reports of the average age at which the first tears are wont to flow, the first teeth peep from their rosy setting, the first taken quite alone, or the first intellig word fall from the pretty lips, than ev the most glowing reports of the quce: jubilee or the sagest dissertation on the eastern question. To the young mother, then, these facts, furnished by an authority on child lore, are offered with the cer- tainty of approval. The average weight at birth, says this student of the child, is seven pounds, and its weight at the end of the first year twenty-one pounds. The length of babies increases during the first year half an inch a month, while the weight increases a quarter pound a week. The average child holds up his head at three months, sits erect at four months, is able to creep at eight months, walk with aid at eleven, and quite alone at fourteen. A baby begins to imitate sounds at eight months. A baby never sheds tears until it is three or four months old, as the tear glands do not develop until then. The hair and eyes change color with age. The eyes of new-born children are usually blue, but about the sixth or eighth month they be- gin to change the color, growing lighter or darker. The hair perceptibly darkens between seven and fourteen. The age of teething varies, but the earlier they appear the easier. If by the end of a year none have appeared, the delayed den- tition signifies poor nutrition. The incisors generally come seven to .twelve months of age; the anterior molars, from twelve to sixteen; the canines, from sixteen to twenty-four, and the posterior molars, from twenty-four to thirty. Bottle-fed babies are usually later in this respect. Girl babies develop in all respects more rapidly than boy babies. To almost every housekeeper there comes, socn or late, the trying experience of find- ing unexpected guests at the door when the cupboard is almost bare. In this emergency it is well to know that a delicious soup may be speedily achieved, using the accommodating white sauce for a foundation, and adding whatever may be on hand—canned tomatoes, peas, beans, celery or asparagus stalks, or even cold mashed potato, for seasoning. Make the white sauce by the regular formula: One level tablespoon of butter, one level tablespoon of flour, one-half tea- spoonful salt, one saltspoon of pepper and one cupful milk. Combine salt, pepper and flour. Have the butter melted in the sauce- pan, stir in the flour until smooth; then add the hot milk gradually, stirring for ‘five minutes. Thin to consistency required and add any pulp or seasoning desired. If celery or asperagus stalks are to be used, cook an hour or two and pass through a sieve. If only mashed potato is at hand, add a cupful to the butter and flour, before combining with the milk, and season with a little celery or parsley. If tomato, add a pint of strained tomato to flour and but- ter, and thin with milk. Lacking a regular ces poacher, a fair mubstituie may be found in the metallic rim of a fruit can. If this be placed in @ saucepan of boiling water, the egg bro- ken carefully into {t, will retain an ap- proved circular shepe. To prepare a delicious dish of tomato ani spaghetti a la Italienne, the directions given are to break one-half pound of Ital- jan spaghetti into pieces, put it into two quarts of boiling water over the fire, add one-half tablespoonful salt and boil twen- ty-filve to thirty minutes. Melt one ounce of butter in a saucepan, add one fine chop- ped onion, one-half fine green pepper with- out the ceeds; cook six minutes; add one- half can of tomatoes, one-quarter cupful fine chopped mushrooms, one teaspoonfu! salt, one teaspoonful sugar and a quarter teaspoonful pepper; cook twenty minutes. When the spaghetti is done, drain in a col- ander, take four ounces Parmesan checse, or grate four ounces American cheese, and put the spaghetti in alternate layers in a dish with the tomatoes and ited cheese. Place the dish for a few minutes in the SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 1897-24 PA oven and serve. The cheese may be omit- ted, if objected to. Macaroni may be pre- pared in the same way. ¢ © In making a hard pudding sauce, add sugar gradually to butter,“and it will get smooth much more quickly Use five times the amount of butter in sugar. Add at the last one teaspoonful white of egg or a lit- tle cream. If a pink sauce is desired, a little currant jelly or strawperry juice may also be beaten in with the butter and su- gar. ’ If a child is restless in its sleep. it is well to remember that it wiil often refresh and quiet it to turn it over. The oft-quoted sentiment that no woman should be allowed to marry until she can bake a perfect loaf of bread, make a good cup of coffee and broil a steak, might well be enlarged to contain a light and delicate omelette as well. In the: best regulated families emergencies arise when the knowi- edge of how to quickly stir together an omelette becomes of value, while in camp- ing or yachting, or in charge of the capri- cious appetite of an Invalid, that knowl edge is enhanced tenfold. The following simple directions, though intended originally for the chafing dish, answer quite as well for the camp skillet or the shiny kitchen spider, provided the: are as clean and smooth as a generous plication of soap and water will niak them. Allow to each egg one tablespoon- ful of either milk or water, a tiny speck of salt (not much, as salt toughens,) and pep- per. The secret of a light omelette lies in the beating of the eggs and the foiding of the whites and yolks together. Add salt to the white of egg and beat stiff, but not so dry that if breaks. Beat the yolk unul lemon colored and thick. Put one ta- blespoonful for each egg in chaf- ing dish or buttering the sides of the dish first. (not stir) the whites into the yolks, the simple reason that the white slips out of the bowl easier. Stir in the milk, just cut through, lift up and Fold fold over, keeping it ir cells may not be | the blaze, while you spre mix- ture even n the thin wooden. s} st to worl Let it remain over the blaze unul slip together, then set over hot waier pan. The more slowly it is cooked, the more delicate it will he, and the more digesti?tle. The plain omelette may be varied from time to time by adding minced chicken ham, tomato, parsley or checse, allowin one tablespoonful of minced ry ore-half tablespoonful parsley or min two tablespoonfuls of oraage pulp. Tnis should be spre: thus forming the center when folded over, Although the mustard 2_benefi- cent institution in its way, it should neve be m strong nor left on long ¢ h to blister the patient. If, howev: should happen, a little sweet cre. or other fruit over top, the omelette of ou on a eft cloth and laid on the surface will be found both soothing healing. In giving a large luncheon, one wai is required to every six peopie. crumbs are to be removed after the salad It is considered ostentatious to set. the table with more s n is required for four course: be brought sert silver finger bowl: FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN the silver ni in with each course. ‘The des- hould be brought in with the Obange in the Figure Has Beon Emph atics Declared. ly One Result of Outdoor Lite — The Proper Styles in Corsets and Flow to Wear Them, ee Written Exclusively toc The Eve The women of the coming winter will wear a great many waists with pouch ef- fect, and even her k or wool separate waists, with a snug-fitting: front, will look slightly broader just above the waist line and slightly wider across the hips. Not in the waist, which is visible, will the differ. ence be found. It Hes in tue corset, wh is invisible. Athletic games and outdoor ¢poris have been modifying the hour-glass figure for some time past, and now the change is em- phatically declared and established. Paquin and other artists who make a study of exquisitely robing the human form divine refuse to fit over any corset which has not a “straight” front and a “sudden’’ hip. This would suggest the idea that the front steels are perfectly straight, but an ex- amination of the old style will show t they were always straight to the wais line, only curving beiow. They still curv slightly over the abdomen. change is in the bust gores, which start from the waist line, thus leaving plenty of room for the expansion of the diaphragm, a very important part of the human frame in these Gays of deep-breathing, out-of-door women. The new corsets are much shorter from the waist line up, and from the waist line down they are modified as to length in front and radically changed as to length over the hips. ‘The hips are not much more than two or three inches long, and this gives the effect known as the “sudden” hip, which will be much needed to carry off the skirts of the coming season. For bicycling various short coi are shown, all in the new shape. The best model 1s of elastic 1s only about thre inch wide, and eight or ten picces, horizontally, with the bones set on proper intervals—about three in each clus- ter—make the corset. These corsets are used for golf, tennis, rowing and ever: form of physical exercise, as well as eycling, riding alone excepted. The perfection of fit of a riding habit makes it necessary that there should be a perfeci-fitting corset underneath. pepular riding corset is covered with in eituer tan or gray, and its severity keeping with the rest of the costum For Evening Wear. It has been demorstrated that short cor- sets are better for evening gowns also. The new evening corsets are many of them simply bodices of four rows of wide sat! ribbon, and are about ten inches wide in front where the steels are set on. The empire corset 1s 10t a novelty, but its comfort and dzintiness have made it permanency. It 1s very short, nothing more than u very wide belt, although care- fully fitted and boned. Women of slender, firm figure can wear it under loosely fitting waists without any further support. It is generally worn, however, with a cen- tury, or brassiere, as it is more often called. The century matches the corset. There is lttle strain on these short cor- sets, and they are made of the dainttest materials. Lace and insertion, with rows of pale blue baby ribbon, formed one which was particularly tempting. The brassiere to accompany it was also of lace, insertion, and besides the ribbon run through the insertion was bound on the lower edge with pale. blue silk. A brassiere is a bust and sheulder sup- port, constructed cf a beautiful combina- tion of lace and ribbon. 1 It is a sad but true fact that no good corset is really inexpensive. They range in price from $6.50 to $1501, The stays at the latter price, ef course, are studded with diamonds, and have: gold clasps. A corset which will be the perfection of fit to the end of its days will cost/somewhere in the neighborhocd. of $10 or: $12. It is warranted not to break at: the: waist line, ro matter how severe the strain if prop- erly worn, Properly worn, means lgged up with a six-yard silk corset Tac! and loosened every time the stays are’ taken off, and not laced again until they, have been put on and pressed down to the waist line. More good stays are spoiled hy being worn above the true waist line than ip any ch other way. MABBL BOYD. ‘ —q~—_—_ Reciprocity. From Life. “Pop,'I wish you wouldn't smoke when I am around.” “Why not, Willie?” “Well, I don’t when you are around.” ———+e+___ Tho Gold Cure. From the Rochester Union and Advertiser. A man writing from Dawson City, -near the Klondike gold diggings, says: “Beer is 560 cents a drink. I have quit drinking.” This is an impressive example of the eff- cacy of the gold cure, Frank—‘Some genius in Birmingham has invented a buttonless shirt.” Billy—“Why, that’s old. I’ve worn them ever since my mite learned to ride a bike.”—Boston Trav- jer. the} DAINTY DINNER DAMASK New Designs and Styles That Are Artistic to a Degree. 7T Indications That in te Table Lincn is Regaining the Refined Elevation of Former Days. Written for Th INTEREST in the liner closet is no longer considered an out-of date virtuo, for Madame la Mode has now turned her attention very toward table k and its dec- oration. As a species of fancy work, the idery of table has been for linen many years a favor- \ = form of dainty needle work: but for the last decade it has been limited almost exclusively to center- pieces, while the tableciotn has be nearly conesaied beneath the + themums, violets and f that have been a conspicuous feature of the dinner table. ‘These are often very pretty and artistic, but if the same time and labor were spent in embroidering handsome initials or mono- gtams on rich damask tablecloths napkins, the result would be more nently satisfactory. One fas! who: unrival ew York and Newport din style and outlay, never per- siik upon her table, not y of the Ifnen. She h throughout the 5 atin covers and silk em- the pen- broiderie eulum of endpoint initials, m E been restored to its high colonia Barly Yet there is old orate ornamentation of the early stages of its exisienc very autin the t the dining table was rarely left uncover after the m ages t sumed the mest sumpiuous ch accorc With the love of coior th: prevailed. Turkey were most in use and were of such gre; they were often provided with oth: the table carpets then at Hampton Co re neh I visitor, w pear nd other pre this was in Sha 4 ote, in “Taming of t w Tur n pearl, Valence lework.” The covering for these table Hnen, embroidered and fringed with icence, and to them we trac: tablecloths of the pi time. ours are not edge ice sd with vy. Ss inlaid with Ven or satiny spots that might ared to pearls, and the: 0. dam: » rich and glossy it mak plainest dinner seem a fe . Only the Be ould Be Bought. It is true economy to purchase the best quality of table linen. Not only are the patterns more beautiful, but it wears bet- ter, and when it does come to a darning stage it still retains its elegance and dig- the nity. But the new designs of the more ordinary ver great v s and c zag st in demand s old pat been revived. Among these eratil r of pe single fleur de lis, “Jardin of towers knotted with pattern, small wild flowe Luncheon cloths dam with a border of deep, shown in k, made round to suit round tables, plain heavy lace. are not so much admired, howeve! of the usual square shape that are hem- stitched and inserted with two rows of the strong Venetian or Ru las Again, the lace may be inlaid, which means the linen follows the flowers and of the pattern. To do this the lace nly basted over the damask and by the edges of the pattern with that onhole stitch. Then the overlaying of the tion are neatly ciipped off and the damask underneath Is cut away. Attractive and Realistic. There is a wealth of imagination in the The designs are very ; lotus leave istic in size, gigan- tle pansies ficent poppies. A dis tinct novelty in damask patterns is rare, but one has come from the looms this sea- son that is perfectly charming—a bunch of leng-stemmed re nrowh diagonally FASHIONS AT LENOX Gayeties of Society Life Among the | Berkshire Hills. | NEW GOWNS FOR EARLY AUTUMN | Tea at the Club House After a| Game of Golf. FOR ATHLETIC FAD IS ‘, Mass. mber 2, 1897. | ROM TIME | immemorial there | have been goldenrod dinners and lunch- eons at Lenox to \ usher in the autumn. Some of the prettiest | of e entertain- ments have taken place this season at the goif club houses, where woodbine climbing over the broad porches and | slowly turning from | n to crimson, s to the brilliancy of | ry occasion. Recently a tea was 2! on the heels of an afternoon on the links | and attended by many who never yet have | succumbed to the fascination of the game. The large, low reception room of th horse was hung with scarlet berries and trailing vines of th: cematis. filled the wide huge vw: club wild white | y and deep rea S stood in every nook and low ribbons looped bac! > curtains and the place wa the soft, brilliant hues of September. ‘The s Wore flowers in profusion, as is the | n’s pleasant fashion, and the younger | had decked themselves with jeweled belt buckles in the shape of bicycles, or golf or tenris or yacht club to their individual bents:; for Lenox hi cording rody at if not a 1 s one fad in athieties, choice assortment. There a great deal of blue in the women’ ses and a great amount of cream and brown. Some of the frocks were corded on the hips, after a style that prom- | ises to be much in vogue this autum These skirts were gathered in to the waist and arranged, in most éases, with hem trimmings. Other gowns had guipure laid around the foot cf the skirt or about the hips. The bodices were more intricate than We have yet seen and very much trimmed, crossing over the front and closing at the seit under a frilling of chiffon or a lace abot. At the Golf Cian. singularly smart gown was a gray mo- rorn by Mrs. Morris K. Jesup. It ed over a skirt of red and gray shot silk and had three panels of silk | ng at the bottom. From the wai came a succession of perpendicular which were r. ucks, peated on the shoulders of the full bod The beit kad a large sil- ver buckle at the back, while lace epa lets made a graceful bodice trimming. Mrs. Burton Harrison an original and very becoming combination of mauve a= across the cloth. checks, sea shells and other riking designs’ may please the fancy of the moment, but the liren that ¢efies time and fashion, that is worthy to become an heirloom for granddaughter brides to value, is the fine double damask woven in wild roses, clover morning glori been loved alwa the flowers that Many families whose wealth is of long stand! have had their » linen of one patterns throughout genera schilds are a notabl fulness: an “all o ers, with large daisic is the only one ¢ ading linen house of New York has fur- shed to a distingu Knickerbocker family the same pattern during more than half a century—sprays of wheat and feath- ery grasses In Washi ions. The Roth- > example of this faith- pattern of field flow forming the bord, y them. The the southern y crest woven in nd napkins, but when hotels adopted that idea to the extent oe name or initials it lost favor in private re. A coat of arms, a crest, a monogram or initials delicately embroidered in white or colored cottons are the ornamentation con- sidered quite desirable now. Monograms and initials mey be large or small, hroad and trailing, or arranged to have a square effect, according to personal taste: but as it is customary to let them follow the style for stationery, this year they are small and placed within a frame-like circle. On the tablecloth they should be near the center, though not so near as to be hidden by the flowers; on the napkins they should be in a corner, not too far from the edge. To gratify a fondness for color, a combi- nation of rose, pale blue and deep purplish red may be safely used, as all these lovely shades are furnished in embroidery cottons that will not fade under the most vigorous washing. .—_—— Where She Kept Her Money. From the Chicago Chronicle. It was on the 1 o'clock ear of the State street line early Monday morning. The car, which had been bowling along quite rapidly, was hailed by a belated female at 29th street. The driver stopped, and the young woman, who was not by any :neans beautiful, jumped aboard the car. She took a seat among the sleepy men insi¢s, but the next moment she jumped up again, blushing furiously. She went out on the back platform. and whispered something very confidential to the conductor. The latter began immediately to grin. The car was now at 30th street, and the conductor Jumped off and ran ahead. “Now's your chance,” he called to the girl, and she jumped off and dodged around a corner. The car waited. “Hurry up, there, lady!” called the con- ductor. A moment later ied girl came peck care- fully rearranging her skirts, and carrying @ $1 bill in her hand. She was blushing more furiously than ever. ‘The conductor rang the bell to seven and took the lady's fare, giving @ handful of small coins. “What was the matter?” asked an in- quisitive parsenger on the back platform. “Oh, nothin’,” replied the con- ductor, “‘cn’'y some wimmin uses deihr stcckin's fur pocket books, and sometimes it’s incom, enient.” It matters little what it is that you want qrwhether a situation or a servant—a “want” ad. in The Star will reach the person who can fill your need. cloth with a rounded yoke of sky blue slice. Bands of ecru lace ever the blue silk were carried round the armholes and | ‘ke, and zppeared again on the sash and t the hem of the skirt. A capital dress was of black China crepe, with the skirt rather full on the hips. The bodice was trimmed with jet and Chantilly insertion. There were long | tight sleeves, with frills on the shoulders | of black chiffon edged with a frilling of white lace. This crnamentation was re- peated at the neck and hem, six ruches surrounding the skirt, each with its white | edging. A large white hat was worn, with | white plumes. A hzrdscme young married woman from Philadelphia wore a pretty dress of green nun's veiling, which is, perhaps, of all ma- | terials for day wear, the favorite just at present. It was made up over green and blue shot silk, which came glinting through. It had been woven with a border of green, blue and a thread of gold, and this was used to edge the basque, and in wide bands on the skirt. The dark blue straw hat worn with this gown was trim- med with blue and succory follage. Tailor-Made Gowns. Some of the best of the new autumn tailor dresses are sported by young women who have not forgotten how to walk since they learned the wheel. Curious as it may seem, there are girls who are capgble yet of tramps among the Berkshires. One of these seemingly misguided creatures wears a blue and ecru frock of the small shep- herd’s plaid that promises to be the one thing every woman will think she must have this autumn. The skirt of this dress is rather full, but with all the bulk behind. A band of cream-colored cloth runs down each side from the waist and is strapped with tabs ef blue and gold braid. The bodice is a smart casaque, or basque jacket, belted with a blue ribbon and edged all the Way around with cream cloth and blue and gold braid. It opens on a blouse of cream- colored chiffon. There are tight sleeves starting from under flat epaulettes, and a brown straw hat set off with a mass of cornflowers is worn. Another dress that has been seen one or two bright mornings is of mignonette-color- ed cheviot, with scrollg of gold braid dis- posed in a new fashion on the waist, the’ a trim belt with a gold buckle and tight coat sleeves, undisguised by epaulettes or other shoulder pieces. With this outfit ap- Pears a green straw hat with sprays of goldenrod and towering white plumes. Intended for Croquet. No longer ts it beneath the atbletic girl's dignity to have a special gown for croquet. A young relative of Mrs. Potter Palmer wears on the lawn a dress of fine soft silver gray wool cut to show off a fine | novice fire could net display rm ¢f a croc personal, it dees ation to x Weddin At a pretty yesterday in grown church a younger sister of wore a most effective between et of t blue silk stripe figured with roses in a with <1 s XV « e skirt was edged with narrow rues of the same material. It opened j left to let in a panel of pink stlk laid ray” pleatings. Pink velvet ro: below hip ¥ closed The is China made a yoke of the finished A toque was worn, ccvered w A reception > worthy of worn ir arton Herri a few a It was of green and pink with groaped flounces; wo bottom of the skirc and on The bodice was a ou sted pouch, of green silk turned over with br wis of guipure, Mt belted with er velvet and had S with epaulett »mposed of of Treen velvet r LLEN OSBORN, —-—__— NEW OCCUPATION FoR Woman. pus Duties Dixcharzed by Mrs. Warren Neal ef Neal, Mich. From the Philaduptia Inquirer. Once new and startling oceupa- tion has 1 for the new woman. It is that of game warden, and the woman | who @ herself by making this | brand-new >is Mrs ren Neal of Neal, M appointed fame wa © county not long since trom appearance of thing will attend to the duties of her off i esslike manner. The duties of game warden are of such | a nature t ma men would not care to undertake to fll the place, but Mrs. Neal is a plucky Mttle woman, and she has no fear wh not being able to over- all ob A game warden is sup- to ‘ over the county and sharp lookout ators of the > and fish laws. nd Traverse nty, of which control, nsely wi :, will be k andies a gun like an ex od is a skillful woodsman, every inch of the territor sh has to pa 1. In order to ma her way through the dense growths in the fer- land as easily as possible, Mrs. Neal hos adopted a costume modeled after the much- 8 to the she has no desire te ting the pace for the she told the writ rews a by and she knows 1 ile Mrs. Neal says thi be considere new woman. thought every man ought to dres: ording to her own ideas of rt, though for the life of her she could not see why any woman should want a skirt when hunting or row- ing. It really appears as if Mrs. Nea! ts sort of woman that has a mind advan¢ ex along sensible and ith-giving Hines. She usually makes a trip over the entire county once a week. When out after the violators of the game law she rides over the country on “back, and when she comes to a lake a boat, and, with a steady, pidly cov- ers her territory made up of watet She carries a rifle on all of t trips, nd woe to the evil doer caught napping, for this plucky came warden ts a relentiess pursuer of ail lawbreakers, and she has brought mat them to Justice During May the state game and fish war- den’s department prosecuted 1 alleged violators of the law and convicted ninety- six, growing out of 149 complaints. This breaks (he record for any previous month in the history of the department. AML but of the convict were obtained jon of the fish laws, and the majo w established by Mrs. thi vic of these cases Neal. Her skill with the rifle is something phe- nomenal, the and she drops her quarry with ease of a professional Nimrod. Mr. who is an enthusiastic sportsman, co taught his wife to be skillful with Last July when they e 1 long the revolver. | in the upper lake region camping he in- duced her to try her hand with the rifle. He declared that a woman who could | shoot so well with a revolver would with a_ dead shot with the Now, rifle shooting re- . a steady hand and wrist ystem that rally the practice become larger weapon. quires a good ey and a control of the nervous very few women possess. Ge at a target. Mrs. Neal's first taget. however, was a glass bottle thrown in the air, and at a third shot she struck the bottle, a surprisingly good atiempt. Mrs. Neal’ kepi on practicing, and now is so expert that she can hit the glass bottle nine times out of ten. In addition to her other duties, Mrs. > carries the mail three times a week Traverse City for Uncle Sam. = Sob A Chance Mecting. From the New York Weekly. First Farmer (at railroad “You're a farmer, too, eh?” f Second Farme es; been farmin ood many year: SfirstFarmer—“That £0? Glad to meet ye. Where is your farm—in the flood dis- trict, the drought section, the grasshopper region oF the cyclone belt?” — If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you will get an answer. August in Scotland. From Punch, Bag Carrier (to keeper)—““What does the maister ask that body tae shoot wi’ him for? He canna hit a thing!” Keeper—“Dod, man, I daur say he wishes they was a’ like him. The same birds does him a’ through the season! IMPERIAL HAIR REGENERATOR. or con. jon of —_ streaky, DLEACHED. or GRAY t cau - made beau ful, glcesy and natural by one application of Imperial Hair Regenerator. do not affect neither nor crimpipg. Iucompar- able for the CARD ce account of its clenuli- Rees and durability. station) —