Evening Star Newspaper, August 28, 1897, Page 15

YOUNG LADY’ BROCADE SILK DRESS. WHAT WILL BE WORN Practical Information for Fashionable Women From Abroad. —_o___ FROM FRANKFORT - ON - THE - MAIN Noted Costumers Tell What Fash- ion Dictates for Autumn and Winter. THE FANCY FOR SIMPLICITY a (Cmann & Strauss, Frankfurt, A.M.) nee of The Evening Star. TH some [AIN, Aug. 13. form ef color and fabric makes « bid for public favor, some- failing to succeed although indorsed leading costumers, which goes to prove that fair woman is hardly as docile she is ideally credited to be, and re- to be dictated to, even by her dress- maker. If any one can forecast the com- ing s the couturier is expected to do so. Thus aided by samples of fabrics sent us by most reliable manufacturers we will endeavor to give satisfactory answers to the ever important feminine question. “What to wear?” The fancy for simplicity which asserted itself so plainly toward the end of the summer, in direct contrast to the gay and bright color combinations with which the spring had set in, continues for street and day costumes for the fall and winte though for e ing wear gayety and ter is indulged in. One's wardrobe will be considered incomplete without a black dress, and plain, smooth-surfaced goods, such as zibelene, mescovietta and drap dete will be extreme ashionable. As a ich trimming and not_ impairing thei simple ele; cloth called a ground of gold, d with a soft black brocade bronze crescents are set and through which comes a soft golden shim- mer. Borders as Trimmings. cloths have woven borders elvedges, to be used as trimmings, strip being at one end for the trim- ef the skirt, and a narrower strip Many at the a wide ming new a exiending along the other selvedge for the { waist has and sleeves. Another popular style ares of rough black camel's hair lid color for a border. Another fi tle check of raised silk cords ade as the woolen ground. ve of cloth as well as of of the same s! Small plajds in many materials and plain goods with a plaid of long black camel's hair make stylish costumes. | beautiful old-gold shade. The favorite colors bid fair to be blue, red, green and brown. All these bordered goods show that trimmed skirts have es- tablished themselves, and there is evidence that the slightly draped overdress will be a feature of the newest tailor-made gowns. The Latest Gown. The latest gown of this description which issued from our shops is designed for fall wear, and consists of a plain, rather nar- row skirt cut “princesse,” with the low bodice of fine light brown drap d’ete, to be worn over a blouse. All seams are stitched with brown silk, and horizontally across the hips extends a trimming of four strips of darker brown drap d’ete, each strip one and a haif inches in width, cut bias and stiffened with thin linen canvas, and stitched twice at each side with brown silk. The ends of these strips, reaching from the seam of the narrow front gore to the side seam of the back gore, are finished in triangular points, which are allowed to hang loosely over and are adorned with handsome square buttons of cut bronze. Three bands of the darker brown cloth also extend at equal distances around the hem of the skirt, ending at the seam of the front gore, with the same overhanging points adorned by bronze but- tons. The short zouave jacket is lined like the skirt, with a light-weight satin of a The jacket closes on the left side and reaches just below the top of the bodice. The same bias bands of darker cloth encircle the jacket, the point- ed ends meeting and overlapping gracefully at the closure. The high standing collar of darker cloth also finishes with overlap- ping points and bronze buttons. A full ruche of pleated brown satin ribbon of the same shade as the bias bands forms a ruching around the top of the collar and along both sides of the closure. The plain sleeves are very slightly fulled at the shoul- ders. The hat to go with this simple but unique costume is a toque of brown felt. with high brown quills on one side and Fosettes of the same pleated ribbon as trims the collar of the jacket. A beautiful large buckle of cut bronze is bent over the brim on the left side of the toque below the quills. For Evening Wear. In silks for evening wear brocades will prev:il in small figures. A model for a charming gown particular- ly suitable for a young lady is made of a dainty white silk brocaded in a design of ciminutive mountain daisies with pink- tipped petals and tiny green stems. The skirt is made as a Grop skirt over an un- derskirt cf pale pink satin, with a pinked ruche of the same satin at the hem. The fullness of ihe drop skirt is shirred at the top into a belt of white satin ribbon. Two wide insertions of cream-colored guipure edged with narrow ruchings of pink mous- seline de soie encircle the baggy blous which closes on the left side under a large white satin ribbon bow and a rosette of pink mousseline de soie. The standing col- lar with its ruche of pink mousseline de soie at the back is also made of the same ribbon as the belt. Another small pink 1nousseline ruche forms a V-shaped decora- tion at the neck. The crinkled sleeves of brocaded silk have a narrow flounce of brocade and a ruche of pink mousseline at the pointed wrists, and are capped with a wide flounce of brocaded silk and two nar- row ruches of pink mousseline de soie. (OLLMANN & STRauss, Frankfurt A. M.) Highwaymen From the Lond Standard. There were to herses belonging to high- waymen which were famous in their time. One of them belonged to the celebrated keight of the road, Paul Clifford. He was called Robin, and was Irish. In color iron- y, he was reputed by judges of horse- fiesh—and there were some who were quite ompetent to give an opinion, if not more sc, as eny of the present day—to be absolutely without blemish, and to be sec- end to none. Another fdmous horse, or ther mate, was Black Bess. Her owner, k Turpin, or, to give him his correct ame, Nicks, committed a robbery in Lon- Gen at 4 o'clock in the morning, and, fear- ing discovery, made for Gravesend, ferried Horses. across the river, ang appeared at the bewling green in York the same evening, having accomplished his ride of 300 miles in sixteen hours on one horse. At least, so Says the leger.d, and this is certain, that on his trial he was acquitted, the jury considering {it impossible that he could have got to York in the time. King William III had a favorite horse called Sorrel, and it was this animal which stimbled over a mole hill and threw its which accident resulted in his th. An article on favorite horses would incomplete without some mention of ine pets of the two greatest generals of the century—Wellington and Napoleon. ‘The former's was Copenhagen. At Water- loo the duke rode him for seventeen and a half hours, without dismounting, and when @t last he did get down Copenhagen was muster, de: quite playful. This horse died at the age of twenty-seven years, and was buried with military honors. Napoleon’s horse at Waterloo was a white Persian charger, called Marengo, a horse which he always rede because his soldiers could easily recognize him thereby. This horse was taken, after the battle, and his skeleton is now preserved in the United Service In- stitute at Whitehall —___+ e+ ______ _ An Old Crocodile. From the Los Angeles Times. One of the most interesting specimens in the British museum is a crocodile more than 2,000 years old. It is a big, well- preserved specimen, and on its back there is a whole family of little crocodiles. Years before the Christian era the Egyptians worshiped crocodiles among their animal deitiés, and many specimens were kept at great expense in their parks and royal gardens, where they were at- tended by priests and given all sorts of dainty morsels for food. When these erceodile gods died they were embalmed and placed in the tombs along with the mummies of other sacred animals. This particular crocodile was prepared by dip- ping it in wax and pitch, which rendered it hard and shiny, and it lay in one of the pyramids century after century, until the Egyptian government dug it out and presented it to the British museum. ——— If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you will get an answer. THE OVERWORKED AMERICAN FATHER. His day off in August. From Lite. THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, AUGUST 28, 1897424 PAGES. HOUSEHOLD HINTS Public Laundries May Do Away With Monday Trials. TENTING CLOSE TO NATORE’S HEART Armenians Make Perfect House Servants in Boston. USEFUL THINGS TO KNOW ‘The question of erecting public laundries where any woman may go and do the washing for her family by the payment of a few cents is now agitating the minds of the Citizens’ Union of New York. The same subject was broached last year by the association Yor improving the condition of the poor, but without definite results. This plan of having public laundries where the admission fee secures the use of tubs, @riers and all the conveniences with which the place is supplied is by no means im- practicable, as the scheme is in full and satisfactcry operation in many large European cities. At St. Marylebone, Lon- don, a public bath and a public laundry under the same roof were opened last year by the Duke and Duchess of York. The laundry is divided into a washhouse, dry- ing, ironing and mangling rooms. The washhouse is divided into seventy-four compartments, in each of which ure two tubs with hot and cold water, scrubbing- boards, pails, ete., with four steam wring- ing machines under the charge of a special efcer. The drying room is heated by flues from two large coke furnaces, and is furnished with seventy-four separate dry- ing horses. Two steam mangles, a large ironing table, two gas stoves for heating irons and two radial drying horses make the ironing room complete in its appoint- ments. The whole place is ventilated with large air-exhaust fans and ligated by a lantern roof. A beautiful bit of life in Arsadie comes from twenty miles up in the Santa Cruz mountains, where a party of college pro- fessors and their families are camping for the summer. The description of the al- most illimitable space, the perfect freedom and the sweetness of unfettered :iving en- joyed by these sojourners so “close to na- ture’s heart,” comes most appealingly to the tired mother cooped up with herychil- dren in the close rooms and artificial at- mosphere of the overcrowded summer hotel, where the children’s hands seem “against gvery man and every man’s against them.’ “We have a most beauti- ful camp here among the great red woods,” writes the chronicler. “The climate is so perfect—no rain, of course—that we all sleep out of doors on the ground. In fact, we have only one small tent as a dressing room. We are on the bank of a beautiful mountain stream, in which we take our daily cold plunge. There are no campers for miles around, so we have taken full possession of the forest. One part is the parlor; another, with tin dishes dnd oil- cloth table, our dining room. Near the spring is the kitchen, with a regular camp stove. The library is in a hollow redwood tree, where Dr. E. nas made some shelves, and in his usual methodical way cata- logued the library of thirty-three volumes. The tree ts large enough for half a dozen persons to stand in comfortably. Today the men are all off trout fishing. All the children are so good and happy here, that we are convinced the forest life is the natural life for them.” A new way of serving the ‘arge soft peaches is to cut them in two, that they may be eaten out of the skin with a spoon. Always serve d doily with peaches, as there is no fruit stain so difficult to re- move. An old housewife’s superstition used to be that if the peach stains of one year were laid aside until the next when the peach trees were in blossom, the com- bined action of sun and grass bleaching would remove the stain. The modern housewife, however, feels that a year is too long to wait on a venture, and, with characteristic promptness, attacks the of- fending t with renewed apolications of javelle water or chlorate of lime until it disappears. . In preparing mashed potatoes, remember that the potatoes should be just done, and no more. Do not let them wait until you are ready to mash them, but pour off the water and mash at once if you would have them light. If they need to be kept hot, Set on the back of the range or over hot water, covered with a coarse meshed towel that will allow the moisture to escape. If treated in this way they will keep sweet and light an hour or more; but if they are covered close, they will be heavy, dark and strong flavored. During the last eight months between 100 and 200 Armenian refugees, unable to find work in their own trades or profes- sions, have gone into situations to do housework, and Miss Blackwell of Boston, who found them positions, has yet to re- ceive the first complaint’ from any em- Ployer of dishonesty or any serious mis- conduct, even in the case of those who Proved unsuited ‘to the work and had to be sent back. A year’s experience with one of these men, who arrived entirely ignorant of our language and customs, enables one to subscribe most heartily to Miss Black- well’s recommendation. Never was help more satisfactory. Wonderfully quick in movement, strong and active, and rarely needing more than one showing, always cheerful, willing and obliging, honest be- yond all question and devoted to his em- Ployer’s interests, he has preved himself almost invaluable. In the kitchen neither grit nor stickiness mars the fair cleanli- ness of Philip's dishes; no smelly milk pan or greasy: dish towel betrays the sloven, while his pots and kettles smile approval at thelr treatment. Economical by nature, his potatoes are pared without a bit of waste; coal and kindling are used with discretion, and the soap is never left to waste Its substance in dish pan or clean- ing pail. He is the first to rise in the morning and the last to leave work at night. Nor does he confine his attention to the kitchen alone. He cleans the porches, tends the flowers and chickens, gathers the fruit and vegetables and runs the lawn mower. He has already made great ad- vance in speaking the language—and in the evenings has learned to read and write. Nor ts Philip a notable exception. In Tur- key the best house servants one can pos- sibly find are Armenians, owing to their capability and trustworthiness; and in this country the housekeeper, willing to make a new departure and give them a trial, bids fair to find her reward in a satisfactory solution of the vexed “domestic problem.” Sometimes in preserving the sirup begins to rise so rapidly that there is scarcely chance to remove the kettle from the stove. In this emergency a few teaspoonfuls of cold water thrown in will cause the sirup to subside immediately. So objectionable are the odors of cooking in a house that many of the fashionable city kitchens are being elevated to the top floor, where the steam and odors may pass directly into the air. A “lift” is worked at stated intervals by the man who manages the furnace, while a dumb waiter supple ments the carrying power of the “lift.” One of the practical advantages of this arrangement is the saving of gas bills, there being more than an hour more duy- light here than in the basement kitchen. In making soup stock allow a quart. of water to each pound of meat and bone. The emergency box is a great institution in some houses. It usually stands on the shelf in the kitchen by the clock. It is best if of wood, and in it you will find the tucks for that ripped-up place in the oilcloth, the nail for the loose board in the floor, string for the bundle, buttons for boots, shirt waists, collar, trousers, gloves, a pair of old shears, that yet have a good edge, sticking plaster, glue, slippery elm, chalk, two or three whalebanes, an awl, darning needles, tape measures—in fact, anything and everything that you find tossing about and that you know in your heart empty, for you are thing to put in it. Teach everybody about the house to save all the string that edines fifto it, Start a bali and wind each pew of string on that, Don't tie it, but just don. When about as big as a base ball begin a new ball. Keep these balls for ready reference all over the house. . You have no idea what a convenience they soon become, Complexion recipes @re m&ch in demand just now. Here is the very latest, and cer- tainly one of the néWest: Equal quanti- ties of pumpkin, gourd and watermelon seeds, peeled, which means that you are to use only the hearts. Peel and slice cu- cumbers, take out the bulk of the’ seeds, and chop them up with the melon piths. Pour on sweet cream to make a, paste and stir it for five minutes vigorously. Rub a little on the face at night ‘after you have hones your face, and let ‘it remain over night. The greasy stains made by heads on the paper back of the eouch can often be re- moved without trouble by mixing pipe clay or fuller’s earth to a paste with water, which apply in a thick plaster to the wall paper. Leave it there to dry, and when always finding some- brushed off it will be found that the clay |. has absorbed all the oil. gone apply it again. ‘Vaseline and lamp black mixed make a good shoe black, better than the liquid stuff you buy, but always put it on and set the shoes aside for the blacking to dry in for at least twenty-four hours. Then rub the shoes well with a flannel cloth, otherwise the dust will gather on the If not quite all -teather and make it grimy and gray. Just as good a way as any to clean wil- low furniture is to make a good strong soapsuds of some nice white soap, with Plenty of borax in the water. Use a clean scrub brush and rinse in cold-water, then place in the bright sun to dry. It may yel- low it a little, but that is not a bad fault. To boil apples, and they are better than baked ones, get them well of a size, wash and core. Put evenly in a tin pan, pour over them a cup of water and let them cook for ten minutes. Then nearly cover them with boiling water, fill the holes where the cores were with sugar and pour two cups of sugar to a dozen apples over the top of all. Let the apples cook till done, turning over once. Pour off the juice and put it over the fire to cook to a jelly. Then pour over the apples. A sin- Ble clove in the boiling juice gives a de- Helous flavor. It is said that a good way to keep flies from specking gilded frames is to_ boil onions and dip a cloth in the juice and rub the frames. The odor is short lived and the flies avoid the frames for weeks after their unique bath. Never wash black hose in water in which white clothes have been washed, because the lint will stick to them and soon make them look gray. The best way to wash black hose is to take them by themselves and wash in ammonia water with some good soap. Rinse in very blue water and hang wrong side out, in a place sheltered from the sun, but where they will dry quickly. Always shake and brush stock- ings well before putting into the water and turn all colors wrong side out. Then if they have a mind to streak the streaks will be on the inside, where they will not show. ——— BABY SAVED BY LIGHTNING. A Lion Killed Just It Was Ready to Spring Upon the Child. From the St. Louls Globe-Democrat. Lightning and blackberries come together in the coast region of Tesas. The people there, as a rule, aréi:mote partial to the latter than the formér. One exception to the rule exists therd’ todiy, however, in Mrs. Pennington of Blum, €reek, who says that one timely stroke. of the !ightning has done her more good''than all the blick- berries in creation Could”possibly accom- plish. Just behind the Penningion home is a small clearing, in which,the blackberries grow large and sweet andé in abundance. One day Mrs. Pennfrigton’ went there to pick some berries for supp#r, and took her little baby girl with ‘her. “The baby grew tired in a little. while, -and™the mother ar- ranged a bed of dry.leaves for it under a sheltering sumach bush. In a few :sinutes the child was asleep, and ihe mother re- sumed her berry picking. ‘It was an cp- pressively hot day, when the air was full of electricity and not a breath of wind stirring anywhere. A squall was coming up rapidly from the east, the lightning was showing dimly on its upper edge, but Mr: Pennington was apparently oblivious cf the approach of the storm, glad only that the baby slept so well and gave ner so Httle trouble. But it was not the storm alone that threatened danger. At the very cdge of the thicket, and only a few fect from the sleeping baby, its eyes gleaming, its head laid flat on the ground, and its tail lashing its tawny sides, a huge Mexican lion was crouching ready to spriag. For a moment it dug its hind paws nervously into the ground, and ‘then it Jeaped into the air. It fell dead only a few inches from the sleeping baby, just_as a loud peal cf thunder caused Mrs. Pennington to look around for the safety of the child. The baby awoke, looked up and smiled. a A FIELD OBSERVATORY. One in Use in the German Army— Better Than Capttve Balloons, From the Philadelphia Record. The military authorities of Germany are concealing their operations with the great- est care, and without the indiscretion of one or the other of the intimate friends of some of the officers nothing would ever be heard of what !s going on in the inner circles. Thus it was possible quite recently for the German army to surprise the world with ‘the fact of its adding within two years past more than 1,000 rapid-firing field guns, none of the other countries hav- ing the slightest idea of the contemplated move until it was fuilly effected. Now the Revista Artilerei, a military paper pub- lished in Bucharest, Roumania, is inform- ed that the German army adopted eighteen months ago a very ingenious system of field observatory, intended to replace the captive balloons when the latter are not convenient. This field observatory is a comparatively simple apparatus. It re- sembles very much the folding ladders used by the fire departments and consists of a long ladder in three sections, with a platform conveniently erected at ‘the top. ‘The ladder is light, takes but little space, is easy to handle, and in short is thorough- ly practical. While two army balloons are provided for each German army corps, each regiment of infantry will have its field ob- servatory. At the present time, when in- formation as to the surrounding country is wanted. and captive balloons are not within call, men are detailed to climb a high tree or to some other favorable point of vantage, which at any rate is a slow and unreliable method. In the new ob- servatory an officer steps up on the plat- form and is then slowly raised until the full extension has been attained. It is evi- dent that this simple contrivance can be of great utility in active-service. 2904 —— Building a Lake im Kansas. From the Topeka Capital! = One of the crying needs, of Kansas has always been some convenient large body of water which could furnish the people a summer resort nearer than the Rocky mountains or the great lakes. This -need we have always felt was hound to be sup- plied some day, though nobody had sup- posed the time was 5; es ted hand. Yet, here it is: A ‘compafty of ‘capitalists is at work now in southwest Kansas digging a canal end leveling off thesbody ofa lake fourteen miles long by eight wide, which they propose to fill with the excess water of the raging Arkansas. erybody knows that ‘the surface of’ that unostentatio stream to be sprinkledtin the summer to lay the dust, but camparatively few peo- ple realized: what a tremendous underflow it has. As we understand it, the summer resort company referred to intend to tap this Qidden supply. They will turn on the underMiow and furnish enough water to af- ford fishing, boating and bathing facilities for the whole state. y Ee UP-TO-DATE WOMEM Early Birds Oan Now Select Their Winter Plumage. CASHMERE HAS COME BACK AGAIN The New Fabrics Are the Most Ex- pensive. PRINCESS AND _ KILTS Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, August 27, 1897. To have the choice of winter and fall dress goods one must even be as the carly bird and return to town when the great re- tail firms are showing their novelties in this line. The old reliable broadcloths come first in price and stability, and promise to he much worn. They range in shade from dark to pale in every known color. Hunting green, “Napoleon” blue, wood brown and cardinal are prominent among those shown at this season. Red promises to be worn during the winter quite as much as during the summer, and it is richer in cloth than in light-weight summer goods. White broad- cloth and ladies’ cloth also promises to be much favored for reception gowns at home. These cloths range in price from $3.75 down to $2 per yard, and are, of course, double width. But the first cost of the cloth next winter will not be the only item to be considered besides the price of mak- ing, as trimmings will be used extensively, and will bring up the total to a handsome figure. We have been hearing that cashmere had returned to favor, and there is not the slightest doubt about it. The cashmere of the present is & little softer, a little heavier and a little finer than the fabric of a few years ago, and promises to make the most artistic and becoming gowns, and can, of course, be combined with almost anything. It is a mistake to use it for walking gowns, however, and the woman who only invests in one dress for street and reception wear— and her name is legion—had better choose a heavier material. New, but Not Durable. One of the handsomest new fabrics is called syballine. It is soft and quite thick, and has a finish l.ke old-fashioned camel's hair, only the hairs are longer, and the weof of the garment, instead of being a hard twisted diagonal, loéks soft and smooth like broadcloth. It comes in every shade and is rather expensive, and would scarcely be as durable as tweeds, serges or cheviots, One can fancy it would be rather forlorn after a good wetting. But it is most beautiful to behold, and one in red, quite a bright red, which was shown to me would make a magnificent gown for a cold day. Many of the new goods have striped bor- ders. This is not only beautiful, but economical as well, for the saving In the expen:e of Luying trimming will be great. Bedford cords, only slightly modified from their old rep, are in full favor, ‘with a bor- der composed of five rows of ribbon of the sz7me shade as the goods woven in near the border. This is exceedingly smart. The width of the goods 1s exactly the length of a skirt, so that disposes of the whole ques- tion of trimming the skirt in the simplest way. Many of the mo@els, however, have a princess effect, the border coming from the shoulder diagonally across the front of the gown to the edge of the skirt, then go- ing around it on that side and in the back, thus leaving an underskirt effect on one side on which there is no trimming. For Drapery Effects. Cashmeres, with borders, are very hand- some and capable of much more manipula- tion into draperies of different sorts than the Bedford cords. Both of these fabrics are in the darker colors to a great degree, dark browns, blues and heliotropes, with now and then a gray, but a somber gray If the bordered goods are dark and w try looking, not so with the plaids which one sees on every hand, and which are to be worn made up Mtoe gowns of nearly every variety that a plaid is capable of submitting to with any degree of adapt- ability. These plaids are quite large and simulate to a great degree the Scottish clans tartans. One beautiful model is made with a real kilted skirt, but by the ingenuity of the modiste’s ‘t it conform: to the model of the now fashionable ski and is narrow about hips_and flares gradually toward the bottom. Kilted skirts are scmething of an innovation, and it remains to be seen whether they will be popular. In all the new gowns, be the material plaid or plain, heavy or light, the pouch effect for the bodice is the most favored. Checks Are in Favor. Checks vie with plaids in favor, and al- though not so widely spokea of they will be preferred by women who feel that their height is net equal to carrying off a plaid gown. Not pin checks, but checks large enough to be called small plaids. They are shown in blue, striped with black and green; fawn, striped with brown and black, and greens of different shades, striped with browns and blacks. For traveling, street or walking gowns they can scarcely be ex- celled. They are durable, stylish.and suit- able. Basket cloths and grenadines have been so popular that among the new consign- ments of goods may be seen these mater- ials in a heavier quality. A coarsely woven, heavy basket cloth of dark blue, com- bined with red, is a striking and becoming gown. Heavy, double-faced cloth for golf capes or bicycle suits has been worn for some time, and there is little change promised this fall, except that many wheelwomen will prefer small plaids to the plain goods worn so long. For three dollars and a half a yard one may buy a dark blue, black or dark brown cloth, with a gray plaid on the other side, for the interior of the suit, which will make a skirt which de- fies the efforts of anything except a cy- clone to disturb it, and which will come triumphantly through an ordinary rain with a dry wearer inside of it. In silk and wool very handsome plaids are shown. One firm is very proud of its assortment of uncut velvets, which show a beautiful background of some gay color, keliotrope, grays, brights, blues, etc. These uncut velvets make handsome carriage and reception gowns, but seem rather out of place for a street dress. MABEL BOYD. Vegetation in Coastal Alaska. John Muir in the Century. The wilderness presses close up to the town, and it is wonderfully rich and luxuri- ant. The forests almost rival those of Puget sound; wild roses are three inches in diameter, and ferns.ten fect high. And strange to say,-all this exuberant vegeta- tion is growing on moraine material that has been scarcely moved or modified in any way by postglacial agents. Rounded masses ef hard, resisting rocks rise everywhere along the shore and in the woods, their FOR Walking Dress Will Be Longer wear gray silk with triple rows of black vel- vet ribbon. running around the skirt at intervals. Each row is caught tiny steel opens with application of guipure lace and nar- colored chiffon, this toilette, and is and white ospreys. putting in their annval first appearance. charming example is of white brilliantine, cut in princess style and edged along the cpening from shculder to ground with a tiny frill of dark green ribbons looking out from under ecru lawn guiptre. The same decoration is carried round the hem and about the white zovave, which is covered with a jet lattice work, and which rises at EARLY AUTUMN STREET DR’ cESSES, FASHIONS FOR FALL Some Striking Costumes Worn at Swell Newport Casino Hops. COUNTRY AND CITY Than Those of Last Year. MATERIALS AND COLORS ee (Copyright, 1897, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, August 24, 1897. The Casino hops at Newport are much More brilliant than earlier in the season and are evening dresses seen this summer. N John R. Drexel, who is one of the most beautiful of the younger matrons, appear- ed the other night trimmed with violets knotted with cream colered ribbons. Mrs. Royal Phelps Car- roll, artistic in design, wore pale yellow satin with sequin embroidery on bodice and skirt seams. Mrs. was dressed in white satin embroidered with small bouquets of lilies of the valley exquisitely worked. wore black tulle some dark red roses on the bodice gave a touch of color to this very becoming toil- ette. One of her daughters wore rose- colored satin with trimmings of pink em- broidered chiffon. Mrs. Elisha Dyer, jr.’s, costume was pale blue satin with costly lace Gecorations. gowned Chine edged with a quaint silver border- ing. butterfly gowns were cut with square de- colletage and tnat the skiris were even more iirily beflounced than is usual with afternoon bringing out the handsomest Mrs. in olive green tulle whose gowns are almost invariably Vanderbilt, Cornelius ir.. Mrs. Calvin Brice embroidered in silver; Mrs. Edith Cushing was in pink embroidered crepe de It was noticeable that most of these dresses. For Country Wear. successful costume for country early September is of French A very in with a folded bodice satin waistcoat buckie. an The over ivory A big black hat complete: trimmed with roses Another smart gray dress just put in commission is of China silk scattered over with pink rosebuds. The basque bodice is arranged with epaulettes of string-colored lace. iarge white leghorn hat, wi r ee we with sprays of and yoke pieces It fs worn with a soft puffings of white chiffon. Still a third costume of the same color is a traveling dress not yet quite finished for a young girl who will be a The material is minutely and azure blue. completed with a loops of blue caught with filagree silver discs. The bodice is of sky blue chiffon, accordior pleated and having arrangement of fine ‘oque to match is trimmed with and silver-colored chiffon. a September pride. pale gray mohair, patterned with crossing lines of ‘gray satin The top of the skirt is folding belt and wide a loose bib cream applique. The At a Country Club Brenkfast. But September will not offer us gray days entirely. A country club breakfast at Southampton yesterday brought out a great deal of blue. One handsome costume worn by a matron who is a perfect brunette was of royal blue satin striped with white. Bands of cream applique bordered fronts of the bodice, overlying a cream satin frilled vest. A blue straw toqve ac- companied this dress with decorations of white roses. the Quite a novel gown worn on the same oc- casion was of dark and light blue foulard, with the skirt made in three flounces edged with deep borders of filmy batiste embroid- ery in cream and blue. skirt, upon which apparently it opened in front, was a panel covered half way up with batiste ruches, finishing to the waist with puffings and rows of embroidery alter- nately. the treatment of embroidery and clustered puffing: set round and round. shoulders were small epaulettes of pleated batiste. The broad Tuscan hat was trim- med with pink roses and blue and white chiffon. A simulated under- Blouse waist and sleeves repeated Upon the The blue streak is continued in the latest thing, for yachting, an eminently trim, trig gown of princess cut in blue serge. The bodice opens on the left under an edge of gold braid twisted in anchors and chains, and this decoration is continued to the bot- tom, of the skirt and again about the hem. A triple belt of gold braid, stiff naval epau- lettes on the shoulders and a white yacht- ing cap with gold band complete the most severe and the smartest water dress that has yet appeared. Street Costumes. Street dresses for early autumn wear are A A this c the throat in a Medici collar. velvet hat is intended for and is trimmed with crimson roses white paradise plumes. Another demi-seasor, walking dress °s of green silk with white figures. The skirt is finished at the nem with alte: frins of green and white gaaz with a band of green embr The fronts of the folded bodic with bands of gauze em»roi: and black and o7 white chiffon, with ruffies of the silk carried about the armholes end finished with frillings of gauze ribbon. A white Leghorn hat is to be worn with garlands of roses and heavy dark green foliage. Dressenx to Be Longer. The indications are that street dresses fcr the autumn will be longer tha: several seasons. There has been a rev are edged ed in green tion in London in this particular. Last spring walking skirts were much shorter there than here, but now trains tked about seriously. diess than those a soft creamy brown cloth, with skirt fillings of silk of a somewhat darker shade. The full bodice is arranged with three raches of ecru chiffon set across from «| shoulder with up and down pleats of the | silk below. There are rather tight ruched sleeves. This dress is long 2nough to lie on the ground behind. The vividness of August colors is mod- ified for later wear. e and green will be much in vogu tember. An- other combination to be continued in favor is black and white glace, her #reen with eit or light blue glace at the : tone to pink and mauves that s that proach to red will remain among the best worn shades. The newest reds for autumn are glowingly brilliant, but the tints yet soft and not trying. cht Silks. Comparatively light silks will be worn later than usual this s 1 from present indications. and fol- lowing them, checked tweeds a vigorous campaign. At a party a few 4d: dainty toil st ith narro: 3 green s gauze edged with w The tight-fitting bodice op with small revers, showing green gauze and guipure. / worn of black gauze and ro: Plainer, for autumn t is a skirt of navy blue cashmere, with a idouse hod.ce in white grenadine ze, striped with very narrow black’ vely There are long sleeves to match, plain but rather full at the top. To this costume is added a short jacket in navy blue with small basques and open in front. Tea gowns are of all seasons. A new and very attractive one is of vhite silk with angel sleeves. It is drawn close :nto waist, showing a blue sash and a vlue p tron worked with silver. By the way, silk sashes of thre: yards in length are a good purchase just now. They are pretty certain to b used all winter as decorative additions to ail sorts of evening gowns. ELLEN Os: Women in the Professio Helen W. Moody in Scribner's, Hundreds of college-bred women have been, and are, capably and efficiently en- or four RN. gaged in teaching, and a few have gained | @ certain distinction as presidents and pro- | fessors in colleges for women, but no great | and original educator has come from among | them. Occasionally a determined young graduate gets a foothold in a newspaper office, and usually keeps it with credit to | herself and her higher education, yet the few women editors of eminence have not been college-bred, and there is nothing to be gained by concealing the fact that the college women who have undertaken jour- nalism seem, as yet, to have had no in- fluence in sweetening the flood of sensa- tional and nasty print for which the news- paper women of the country must be: their share of discredit with the news- paper men. The number of college women who have taken up medicine is considerable—sume of them, no doubt, from a real love of s and some for love of a career. Whi! work has been able and their suc ss un- doubted, it is just to say that they have not contributed originally mnedical science. There are a few women coll in law, in literature, in fhe pulpit other professions, and their helpfulne enthusiasm have been especially notic in educational and philanthropic work. In all these fields of usefulness the work of college women, “taken by and large,” has been good, honest, competent work, about like that of the average industrious ma but it has been derivative, not creativ complemental, not brilliant: offering litt opportunity for sex celebration on ihe part of those enthusiasts who believe that women have needed only a diploma and a ballot to be brilliantly equipped for con- quering all the world that men have left unconquered. —$—$_—$_$_———____ She Had Him Cowed. From the New York Journal. While stopping one night at a farm house in Missouri a traveler was astonished to see his hostess walk up to her husband about every fifteen minutes and box his ears or give his hair a pull. In the morn- ing the guest, seeing the woman alone, asked an explanation of her strange con- duct, and her reply was: “You see, stran- ger, me and the old man has been fightin’ for ten years to see who shall boss this “ere ranch, and I have jest got him cowed, but if I should let up on him for a day he would turn on me again, and my work would all go for nothin’.” It matters little what it is that you want —whether a situation or a servant—a “want” ad. in The Star will reach the person who can fill your need. scored and polished surfaces still unwast- ed, telling of a time, so gone, when the whole region lay in darkress beneath an all-embracirg mantle of ice. Even in the streets of the town glaciated bosses are exposed, the telling inscriptions of which have not been by the wear of elther weather or travel. And in th