Evening Star Newspaper, August 14, 1897, Page 16

THE EVENING STAR,*SATURDAY, AUGUST A TEA GOWN. OLD-TIME FASHIONS The Desire for | Variety Brings About | Their Revival. > — PROMISE 10 BE QUITE POPULAR Grecian Draperies, Marie Antoinette Fichus and Victorian Bodices. SLEEVES ONCE PLAIN MORE August 1, 1897. HE DESIRE FOR variety has revived many antique styles | which are worn by the up-to-date wo- man with the same grace which distin- | guished her ances- tors. The Victoria cor- sage, par example, is a new-old bodice brought out by the admirers of the Eng- lish queen, in honor of her diamond jubilee. It is glove-fitting, almost seamless and laced up the back, and is a pretty reminder of the costumes of 1830. It will make a graceful evening bedice for slender women in the coming season. The front of the waist Is closely fitted by means of a “princesse” iinins, with an additional deeply arched seam down the immediate front. The decollete is rounded with a deep fall of rich lace from the ed A short puff generally forms the sleeve, but the slender woman prefers to cover her arm first with a tight ng of thin silk e: matching the } bodice in color, then over this a thin fab ric like chiffon or mo ie shi eline de red two-inch puffs, each shirring form- ing a tiny standing frill. This arrange. t covers the entire length of the sleeve, | » effect of the colored silk through above is lovely. At draped over a puff | is merely a bui- | pery of the thin goods, or the lace les the te of the bodice 1 to drop gracefully over the A Handsome Tea Gown. an Grapery is affected a gown. in our e train, and opens in fro: ever an underdress of white satin, em- red with gold and silver an antique d of the und FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Modern Mackintosh and the Useful Golf Cape. n Ex. asively for The Evening Star. The mackintosh of today is a picturesque gurment, but is still suffering for the sins of the mackintosh of a dozen years ago, and refore many women will evade in divers ways the necessity of owning one of th se garments. A thoroughly waterproof vanette in dark blue or brown, with a cape, is a garment which will enable | lor one to wear with safety pretty gown even on a rainy day. There are many oc- casions in the Ives of those of us not | idowed with wealth when we are | ed to wear our best bibs and tuckers l cannot take cabs. Then the m@ckin- h is invaluable. The “rubber” water- Proof ts also an artistic garment in its pres- ent form. Also of cloth, vulcanized with 1 with silk, with one or two with an umbrella to match the lin- of the cape and smart rainy day boots or guiters at the other extremity, a chic tc., a pleasing picture is formed. The f Cape. A golf cape is more than its name sug- gests. The first picture it brings to one’s mind is athletic and picturesque, with field and golf sticks and all the paraphernalia of that popular game. For the fair golfer @ new cape has been devised this year. It a long inner waistcoat, connecting with the belt, which has heretofore been the only means of holding it on. This new waistcoat, or inner garment, buttons down the front and the cape proper nay be thrown back over the shoulders, leaving the arms free for play. Capes made on this model are very businesslike, made of good Scotch cloth of a durable color, without the gay lining of the “double-faced” materials. The golf cape ts also invaluable to those who are lucky enough to be able to linger far from town until golden October has be- come a memory and Christmas itself is ap- proachine: The favorite cape made by a jouse which claims the honor of having introdticed this garment in our country is of dark blue double-faced eloth. The tmner gide is a gay scarlet plaid, which makes a bright spet of color in the hoed and shows with every breeze. Many up-to-date young matrons wear these capes instead of rain coats, and even threaten to wear them in town next winter when the skies are leade2. For Traveling. cular capes for traveling made of light weight cloth and lined with silk are very much worn 3y those who value comfort. ‘There are also fitted traveling wraps which Bive the effect of 4 golf cape in front, but | indeed, will be most favore: favored pouch at the waist, where it {s held by a pointed girdle, richly embroid- ered with gold, silver and turquoises. A Greek tunic of fine butter-colored point duchesse falls in graceful folds from the front and back of beth shoulders and ends in long points. The sleeve is a dainty ur- rangement of rose-colored chiffon at the top, draped over an under-sleeve of wrinkled point duchesse, with a full flounce of the same beautiful lace at the el- bow. A narrow ruching of gathered rose- colored mousseline de soie edges the bro- caded silk train, and a full ruching of the same finishes the back of the high neck. Marie Antoinette Model The days of Marie Antoinette “are re- called at sight of the dainty fichu which decorates the waists of thin summer gowns and kouse dresses or sacques for autumn irdoor wear. A beautiful gown for a young girl Is made of sheer rose-colored India mull over an underskirt and tight waist lining of rose-colored India silk. The silk underskirt is finished simply with a wide hem, but the mull dropskirt is adjusted over the hips by shirrings, and is decorated at the hem by two finely pleated flounces edged with narrow black silk lace, and a black silk lace insertion. Above the ruf- fles are several rows of black silk inser- tion, the mull being cut eway underneath. | The close-fitting round waist of rose-color- ed mull cver an India silk lining has a large fichu edged with two flounces edged with black lace and insertion like those on the skirt. This fichu is draped gracefully over the shoulders, and the low, square decollete of the bodice, the ends crossing in frent and attached on each side of the black velvet girdle by rosettes of black velvet ribben. A black veivet ribbon with an old-fashioned locket encircles the neck. ‘The elbow sleeves adhere to Marie Antoin- ette modeis by fitting the arm closely and finishing at the elbow by two flounces of rese-colored mull with black lace and in- sertion. As this gown is particularly adapt- ed for garden parties, a large picture hat of fine black straw with black nodding plumes and a wreath of pink roses under the brim is a most suitable accessory. Plain Sleeves Returning. Dame Fashion is slowiy but surely lead- ing us to the plain sleeve, devoid of extra fuliness on the shoulder, as many fall models show, although an extra breadth of shoulder is still attained by epaulettes or ruffles on street gowns, and the possess- ors of slim arms will be glad to learn that the unlined wrinkled sleeve of mousseline de sole will add to the size of the arm in many of the new ball and evening toil- ets of next winter. Silk brocades will relcomed with old-time fervor for even- ns. The patterns will not exceed a dium size, and wili be greatly in floral roses with stems and leaves, ¢ forget-me-not sprays on a cream lies of the valley in natural hues . the last named, . as gray still after a reign of two sea- in brocades will be lace dark satin on a tions of lace, span- gles, goid embroideries, beads and gems will be as much as ever employed in the elaboration of skirts, bodices and millinery. holds its light surface. in the back have pleats conforming to the line of the figure. The latter are not very long, seldom coming much below the waist and are cut even shorter in the back. Smart box-coats of broadcloth for cool days or for driving are made with collars of velvet and bright brass buttons of me- dium size. A very becoming one. was made of white broadcloth with revers and col- lar of black velvet. Another more startling was made cf red, with green facings. it is to be hoped this latter coat will only be seen on very cool days, for red, although pepulac, is very warm to the eye of the beholder, and in dressing it is the onlooker we are ‘pposed to consider. A tan coat with large white pearl buttons was a more ordinary garment than either of the others, but very stylish. Hats for Early Fal Hats begin to indicate that the summer will soon wane, and all the bright, light creations for wear with diaphanous draper- jes are for sale at half price. In their places are darker straws and more sub- stantial trimmings. One heliotrope straw was trimmed with dark purpie and paler lavender net, put on in a fluffy pleating which seemed intended to modestly con- ceal the fact that there was a difference in th» size of the brim and the crown. In the side there were dark wings, just the shade of the hat. Even more fetching was a golden brown straw with green satin ribbons and brown wings. The trimming on this hat also seemed designed to make it the same size from the brim to the edge of the crown. The feathers on the left side, however, gave character and dash, and the whole effect was dask and hand- some, quite suitable for wear very late in the fall White sailors are almost a drug on the market, and those going out of town now are buying dark straw, either blue, brown or green. A few sailors are shown of mixed straws, orange and blue, etc., and in spite of their conspicuousness are rather favored for early autumn wear. The fe- dora, however, is the most popular hat for traveling and out-of-town wear on ocea- sons not ceremonious. Of dark blue straw, trimmed with white chiffon and white wings, or of brown adorned in a similar manner, they make one think of boats, trains aad all the happy means of getting away Irom town. ‘Phe Popular Fedora. It is stated that the felt fedora is to be narrower and higher in brim this fall, but so far theve is not much change in those which have been seen all summer. For bicycling they will always be the most satisfactory shape of all, as the wind can- not catch chem oa easily as a sailor. A re- nowned firm cf %etters are selling a hat which they deb “sumbrero. is exactly the round share with the wrinkle in it worn Sehool girls and boys ia3t winter. But the brim is quite wide and curls upward in a way ch toa youthful face. It {fs strictly for tdoor sports and comes with an elastic already attached In spite of this it does catch the wind. But its becomingness mukes one forgive this. z: 14, “1897-94 PAGES. Saborate. ‘buckes are more worn with smart 4 Trova Paris metallic ribbon; 5 gilt buckle he:d_dowm by three long gilt ins, Plata ik belts af have gilt buckles, while narrew silver or gilt have the Rus- sian enmmel- buekles; or there are the FCcoco patterns, set with large stones. Very few rhinestone bei seen, bi the Ripresen® Nartéw belts are still pre- ferred to the wide:ones; and there are for- tunately.,some contrivances for keep- ing. the skirt and belt together which are quite ortiamentaf,' and, if possible, accord with the>belt butkle. “a 5 BEAUTIFUL MRS. EATON BRIGHT RIBBONS IN VOGUE Flowing Sashes Are Dainty and Pretty With Wash Materials. The Corselet is Worn, but im a Dif- ferent Shape—Sash Ribbon of Old- em Days is Again in Favor. From “Harper's Bazar. Belts and sashes play an important part in the summer costumes this season, and consequently the thin gowns suitable for midsummer wear are daintier and prettier than ever, for the thin sheer materials are vastly improved by the lavish use of rib- bons. Frills and furbelows are a marked feature of this season’s fashions, and they always seem to need floating ends of rib- bon to set them off to advantage Never before were sashes so cheap and in sach vartety of coloring. The prism cclors are spun out to a most wondrous degree, and the shades of coloring are al- most bewildering. To run the gamut_of the reds, purples and greens is in itself a mighty task, while of the plaids, stripes and other fancy ribbons there is no end. The Girdle Still in Favor. The girdle or corselet still finds favor, but is not the same shape nor size as that worn last year, in consequence of the full blouse front that is so marked a feature on tals year’s gowns, which does not per- mit of a girdle betng worn in front; so at the back the belt is high pointed or round, as desired, but in the front it-is narrow and tapers to a point. Satin girdles made on the bias are the most popular, for they fit better and can be drawn more tightly around the waist; the smooth effect, too, has given way, to the A Beminisoenoe ofthe Early History of This City. O'Neal's Tavern, Which Afterwards Became the Franklin House—Pat- ronized by Many Famous Men. Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. The writer was born in January, 1908, within a hundred yards of the tavern—as all hostelries were then called—kept by William O'Neal. I knew the family well, was a schoolmate of Mrs. Eaton, her two brothers and next younger sister, at a school kept by Thomas Gunton, the father of the late Dr. William Gunton, and I now have two of Mr. Gunton’s receipted bills against my father for tuition of His three oldest children. These bills bear date in 1817. Mr. O'Neal was a Pennsylvanian by birth, probably of Irish ancestry, but, as he had not the slightest brogue, it is fairly Presumable that his descent from that na- tionality was remote—perhaps three, four or more generations. He was a large man, of imposing appearance, good-looking, friendly, given to hilarity, now and then prefane, and sometimes permitted himself to use language not entirely polite. His family consisted of his wife Rhoda, much esteemed by a large circle of acquaintances, religious, and very charitable; two sons, William and Robert, and three daughters, Margaret (Peggy), Mary and Georgiana. The sons died before reaching mgnhood. Margaret was married young to Mr. Tim- berlake, a purser in the navy, who com- mitted suicide a few years after his mar- riage. Some years after his widow married Gen. John H. Eaton, a guest in the-hotel, and Secretary of War under Gen. Jackson. From this marriage there were, I think, two daughters. After Gen. Eaton’s death his widow remained single many years, in fact, until her grandchildren were nearly grown. Her home was then on I street, two cr three docrs from 20th street northwest, in a handsome three-story brick house, a piece of her father’s property. This house was previously for several years occupled by Don De Onis, the Spanish minister. Married a Dancing Master. Mrs. Eaton’s granddaughters were mak- ing their home with her, and she, desiring to give them all the advantages of accom- plishments, employed an Italian dancing master to teach them at her home. This professor's name was Buccagnint, he was much younger than his employer, and his frequent Iesson calls at the home of the young ladies gave htm opportunities to learn a great deal as to Mrs. Eaton's cir- cumstances. In a little while there srew up an intimacy which enabled him to find out that his employer was the possessor of several. pieces of valuable real estate. Thereupon, he commenced to make pro- fessions of attachment, the result of which was that the widow was entrapped, and, though many years his senior, she married him. He soon persuaded her to place all her property in his control, and not a great while after he left for-his native country, from which it is said. he never returned. There were other gross misdoings of his, but that may be passed over now. This statement I. received from an old friend who was a lifetime intimate acquaintance of the O'Neal family, and whose father was for a great number of years a tenant on a plece of the family property, adjoin- ing the Eaton home. Mrs. Eaton, as she is now always called, being thus abandoned and despoiled of all means of support, sought a boarding house, Mrs. Cudlip’s, on the south side of Penn- sylvania avenue, between 3d and 4% strects northw Some of her connections pro- vided for her. There she died. Her burial was in Oak Hill cemetery. Some time be- fore her death she called upon the friend before alluded to, and asked him to ac- company her to Oak Hill, with a view of selecting a lot in which to place the re- mains of her father and family, which were to be removed from “Holmead’s bury ing ground,” at the head of 20th stree! where the family had been interred. To this friend, after an inspection of Oak Hill, she said, “Yes, I think this would be a nice place to stay in.” How like her that expression i An Attractive Woman. She was universally regarded as a very pretty woman. She was gay, lively, quick to perceive, and not slow to reply; could be sarcastic; was brave, fearless and com- bative. All this from her girlhood up. How vividly this writing recalls her tomy mem- , especially in her younger days! I have a clear recollection of her many pranks and lics when at school. Mary, O'Neal married one of the Ran- dolphs of Virginia. Georgiana married the Rey. French 3. Evans, a minister of the Methodist Episcopal Church, well known in the District, and greatly respected. He filled several of the appointments jaere made by the conference of the church, and was several years in one of the depart- folds, which are certainly much more grace- ful. ‘Everything this season must be made to look loose and graceful, even though in reality it is tight-fitting. On a lawn gown of white, with bunches of lilacs and pink roses, the girdle is of bias satin in folds of Hlac and pink the exact shade of the flowers. This girdle at the back Js pointed and quite high; in front is a narrow point finished with double ro- settes. ‘A black grenadine gown has a girdle of black satin, which at the back fits like a corselet, quite plain. At the side seams it begins to taper down, and just at the waist- line in front fs not over an inch wide. it is contended by dressmakers who study the lines of the figure that girdles of this shape are much more becoming than the ones which are of the same width both in the front and back. Sashes Go With Big Hats. With the picturesque fashions of big hats and floating draperies, sashes must needs once again find favor, and not only are they to be seen on the gowns made of wash materials, but also on the heavier fabrics. One smart style is of mousseline de sole, made cf the width of the goods, and long enough to go around the waist and tle in the back in a small bow, but with long floating ends, which are cut bias and trim- med with narrow lace, either white or black, put on quite full. On a gown of flowered grenadine made over a green lin- ing the sash, of pale green chiffon, is trim- med with narrow black lace, and is so long and wide that it quite covers the back of the skirt. Sometimes these sashes are not tied in a bow, but in a simple knot, which is pulled small, and then the ends hang loose. Surah sashes are also made on the same plan as those just described; the ends are not cut blas, but round, and ‘then they are shaped so that, narrow at the belt, they spread out to the full width of the ma- terial. These are worn on the canvas and grenadine gowns. On a pale gray a sash of white surah with a narrow ruffle of Valen- ciennes lace is most charming and effect- ive. Sash Ribbon is Used Extensively. Sash ribbon, such as was worn in olden days, has again come in favor, of medium width and in queer old-fashioned patterns, like the old silks. Bright plaids and checks abound, but there are also the plain taffetas and gros grains. Moire is not so much in nents of the government. He was a very Interesting preacher, and held in great es- teem by his different congregations. The location of Mr. O'Neal's hotel was at the intersection of Pennsylvania avenue, I street and 2ist street northwest, and It was the resort of many prominent public men. Gen. Andrew Jackson, Gen. John H. Eaton, the cranky, remorseless John Ran- dolph of Roanoke, and many other noted men in public life were patrons of the house. The “Franklin House,” it was called, and a large ornamental swinging sign was suspended in front of the main central entrance, having a painting of Franklin on each side. After the death of Mr. O’Neal the prop- erty was purchased by John Gadsby and greatly improved. Mr. Gadsby successful- ly ran the house for several years, then moved to what is now the National Hotel, and opened that house under the name of Gadsby’s, and as he was a noted hotel man, he did a very lucrative business there, en- abling him to change the old Franklin House into four or five handsome resi- dences, as they now appear. This property is,.I think, still in the possession of the Gadsby degcendan ithe Newtons, Mc- Blairs, and ‘the childken of William Gadsby, a son of Jofin. 2 Many erfdrs have’ teen published as to Mr. O'Neal's name, ‘It being given out as Patrick. By his intimate friends and the boys of thé locality’ he was dubbed Billy O'Neal. 46 = fashion at present, but, with satin, is some- what in the background. The Liberty satin, however, is considered extremely smart, and ts to be had in many colors. Made sashes are, as a rule, more satis- factory than those that are tied each time COSTUMES AT A NEWPORT GARDEN PARTY. silk. The two large buttons are red with silt filigree rims. The very small girl in figure 2 has on a pink pique sacque, with sailor collar. This little wrap has a plain, loose front. There are three seams in the back, making it fit into the figure. The full sleeves are gath- ered to a band, and a frill of deep white embroidery edges the collar. The flowered French flannels look well made after this little sacque pattern. For boys under three it is also a good style to follow. White pique, flecked with red and trimmed with red embroidery, would make a jaunty Httl jacket for a boy. A plain or.a Russian Diouse in plaid or navy blue is the best Wrap a boy of four or five can wear with his pleated pique or linen skirt. The two young men sailing boats illustrate the dif- ference between the two styles—the Rus- sian blouse buttoning at the left side Blue serge reefers, with sailor collars braided in white, are old favorites for both girls and boys. Many of the newest a smartened by a band of scarlet on o and sleeves. A pretty model for a long coat is shown in the fourth illustration. The material light-weight wool goods, a bronze s: ground, with tiny skips of red. orange, green, black and paie blue. It costs but nts a yard. The skirt is gathered to a straight shallow yoke, and then smocked with pale blue silk in three rows, which forms a short waist. A fancy black and pale blue braid passementerie trims the collar, pleated shoulder ruffle, and turn-up cuffs on the full loose sleeves. Made of China silk in a pretty Hgbt blue. this coat AT A GARDEN PARTY Some Stylish Costumes Recently on View at Newport. ADVANTAGE OF STIFFENED SKIRTS Color Runs Riot on the Beach at Narragansett. GOLD AND SILVER TINSEL (Copyright, 1897, by Bachellor Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEWPORT, R. L, August 11, 1997. URELY THAT WO- Mis S= is wearing “Ss ‘tilter? ” I looked up un- comprehending. “That one in cream muslin all over flounces, with shrimp pink showing through.” “Yes,” I answered without enthusiasm. “It’s a pretty dress, but she walks with a curious swing.” “There, you notice it! responded my companion triumphantly. “I knew she had a ‘tilter! Still my face was blank, unintelligent. “Tilter!’ Skirt extender for the back! Horse hatr! The old-fashioned kind! Til- ter! Why, you must know!” We were walking on Bellevue avenue and had noted an interesting variety of new wrinkles in dress, in deportment and in tints of complexion and hair. But the “tilter” was a revelation. It is “next,” though, logically. The late summer skirts and those for wear when the six weeks prophesied by the katydid have slipped by are cut to demand support behind. The half-fitting front is disappearing. The new models are tight in front and at the sides and full in the back, the fullness laid in two or three double box-pleats usually. My companion, who was a_vivaci young person from Chicago, said that tne lady in the “tilter’ had cheeks “pink enough to eat,” though the brighter shades of Newport cheeks often suggest to me somethirg indigestible. The tilting lady wore a very delicate embroidered muslin with small flounces about the foot of the skirt ard tipped up behind. Under the muslin was a pink silk slip and the same color lined the blouse bodice, though the sleeves were transparent and only gather- ed. The blouse opened on the left side un- der a lace ruffie. It had a high rufiled col- lar and was finished with the new sash, which is a wide scarf of chiffon, pink in this instance, tied with short bows at the side of the ‘waist and with ruffled ends hanging to the ground. There was a large white satin straw hat trimmed with pink There are dozens of dresses like except in detail, on the avenue every but no. one has the swing, the side- wise movement, the extra-emphatic muz- mur of silk rubbing harder than common against silk that betrays the presence of the “tilter,” and marks this costume for attention as far as it can be seen. It is not a graceful dress, but it is assertive enough to make other dresses look as if they had undergone a limp sea change. Stiffened dresses have an advantage in the struggle for existence, in that they seem to lend distinction. However, in fashions we are ruled by Siamese twins. The “tllt- er” has been used two months in Paris. r it, a It is not safe to assume that we are going j to take to it seriously until there. comes word of its adoption in London. For an Outdoor Function. At a garden party yesterday where were displayed a number of extremely pretty gowns in the current styles, Miss Anna Paulding, a niece of Dr. Depew, wore a checked grass lawn in red and cream color. The material, half silk and half linen, was particularly delicate and effective. ‘The skirt was bordered with half a dozen little frills of fine cream lawn, set close together in front, but just a little separated and tilted up behind. The bodice was of cream lawn, also set into tiny tucks, as were the sleeves. An extremely short bolero of the checked lawn was fastened at the left side by a little lace frill. Miss Van Alen, a granddaughter of Mrs. William Astor, wore a grass lawn cut in a polonaise style, the plain underskirt of ecru silk, tre polonaise of grass lawn checked with ecru and blue and having the little squares separated by dark blue lines. The underbodice and sleeves were made of tucks alternating with lace inser- tion. The polonaise had one rever turning over on the breast and of the turquoise blue tint of the checks in the lawn. It fastened at the side and was arranged as a blouse bodice in front and behind, with a sash of turquoise blue. Miss Anna Sands wore a pale green mus- lin with scroll embroidery in black chenille edged with Httle ruches of cream lace thrown tpon the skirt in garlands. The green sash had ends of this scroll work and was edged with green velvet ribbon. The Of Pink Muslin. would be most attractive. A very servi able long coat has the skirt gored at the costumes really “excitant.” There is a riot of color, a canopy of glowing sun- shades, a murmur of dlaphanous materials not drowned even by the murmur of the sea. One of yesterday's successes was a soft gray grenadine over rose pink. An- other, a white silk with fine stripes of blue, a blue parasol and a round French hat trimmed with blue chiffon: a bolero of escurial lace and a sash of turquoise blue were accessories not to be forgotten. A pale blue gauze embroidered with pink rosebuds was tempting. It was worn with white low shoes and a rose pink parasol. Yellow and white gauze draped over blue was one of the best combinations, worn with a brown and white hat, blue and yellow flowered parasol and whité shoes. Dotted mull suits abound, as a matter of course, but split up usually in various combinations. For example, a pretty girl who is out one day in a bright silk bodice covered with gauze or chiffon and worn with a dotted mull skirt will appear the next day with a pink silk skirt and a bodice of dotted mull. Grass green silk covered with embroidered muslin is the most popular wear of the moment, though white silk covered with black lace or net runs it hard for position. One prophecy for autumn to be made with confidence is that gold and silver tin- sel will be more general than ever before. ELLEN OSBORN. —s FOR BREEZY DAYS Smocked Clonk. side seams and laid in two double pleats in the back. Blue, red and white shepherd's check goods are used for its construction. The deep stole sailor collar and cuffs are trimmed with three rows of navy blue yel- vet ribbon, the skirt being simply finished with a hem. This coat is an excellent de- sign for pique or heavy crash. Shepherd's check will be found an excellent material for children’s knock-about coats. The choice of colors is wide, as it comes in green, brown, black, blue and white. Braid or velvet ribbon may be used for trimming. But the principal point in its favor.is that it washes like gingham. ——__ MES. GASKELL’S HOUSE. HILDREN ARE sensitive to changes in the weather than we elder mortals, and the breezes that we hail with delight are apt to cause them discomfort, unless they have a good supply of light wraps in their wardrohe. These little wraps should vary from a heavy pique reefer to a Mother Hubbard or Gretchen cloak that will cover them up to their toes. Any light wool material, plain or checked, in pretty coloring, will be found suitabie for Jackets or long coats. The French flannels that come in scarlet, dull green, rose and navy blue, sprinkled with rose buds or daisies, make bewitching little wraps for the tiny tots, and need only to be pinked out on the edges for trimming. The empire is the most popular model for short jackets, whether they are of wash arlotte Bronte and Her Family. _—e From the Woman at Home. The house which Mrs. Gaskell's name has rendered famous stands in Plymouth Grove, @ broad thoroughfare, pleasantly planced with trees, which leads from the suburbs into the city of Manchester. The house ts of gray stone, commodious, double fronted, with a gravel carriage drive sweeping round to the front door, tall trees forming a screen from the road, with a pleasant gar- den at the back. When Mrs. Gaskell first made it her home, in 1849, it stood in semi- rural isolation; now houses abound on every hand, and the wamears pass along the road. There still live Mrs. Gaskell’s two unmarried daughters, Miss Gaskell and Miss Julia Gaskell, ladies who are keeping up the traditions or their celebrated house in a delightful manner, and to whose kindly courtesy I am indebted for the privilege of becoming acquainted with its contents and literary associations. Never surely were biographer and biogra- Phied more closely connected in the public mind than are Mrs. Gaskell and Charlotte Bronte. To mention the one suggests the other. It was during a visit to Sir James and Lady Kay Shuttleworth, at Briery Close, near Windermere, in the autumn of 1850, that Mrs. Gaskell’ first saw the au- “Jane “a litte lady in a black silk gown,” who sat and “worked ay and hardly spoke.” Before the visit ended the two became fast friends, and the following year Charlotte Bromte paid the ble visits to Plymouth orth the house and its many a kindly mention in In 1853 she cam time passed a week under Mrs, 's hospitable roof. It was pleasant to sit in the drawing room where she had sat, and listen to Miss Gaskell as she cal her childhood memories of the visit. material or wool, as it is easily made and | Miss Gaskell told me that the impression inmates have her letters. th Two Empire Coats. is stylish in effect. This jacket has two] which she retained of Charlotte. Bronte flat box pleats in front and at the back— | w. datsty, Leino crantuch oop those at the back are laid close together, ain tm appearance, alight t= iow and it ts fitted by means of side seams. A| with tiny hands and fect: very large crap deep sailor or pointed collar, or a small} Cyes, silky brown hair aud a che tang turn over collar and epaulettes may be| manner. At times, when strangers were used as a finish to the jacket. The wash | not present, and she was at her ease. she coats are made of plain light biue and pink | would become quite impassioned in con- pique, or white with colored figures, and are | versation, using her hands to accentuate trimmed with Hamburg embroidery her remarks. Miss Gaskell recalls hearing Miss Bronte describe the acting of Mme. Rachel, whom she had recently seen in London, and in order to illustrate some at- titude of the actress Miss Bronte clinched her fists. The aroused passion which thrill- ed through her fragile body, and the tion of clinching the fists, made a lasting impression on Miss Gaskell, then a tiny child. She had also a vivid recollection of Mr. Bronte in his last years, as she accom- panied her mother to Haworth when, after Chariotte’s death, Mrs. Gaskell visited the moorland parsonage to gather materials for the “Life.” Mr. Bronte was confined to his room at the time, and Miss Gaskell rec the vivacious manner with which he re- ceived them and what a picturesque figure he made sitting propped up in bed, his snowy white shirt showing up his hand- some face and fine head. He talked inces- santly, telling story after story and spin- ning yarns like a Napier, full of point and vivid) coloring. “It was easy to wnder- stand,” said Miss Gaskell, “where the Bronte sisters got their genius from.” Miss Julia Gaskell had also a story to add re- garding Mr. Bronte. “When my sister and I were visiting in the neighborhood of Ha. worth parsonage,” she said, “we had oc casion to go’ into a little jewelers and clockmaker’s shop there, and the owner of it told us that old Mr. Bronte, who was then in a dying condition, had sent his pistol to him to have a new spring put to the trigger, which would enable him to fire it off more easily. Mr. Bronte, I should ex- plain, had a very violent temper, and was in the habit of firing off a pistol to relieve his feelings; and even in his dying state he could not abandon the habit, and had The two young ladies of eight, in the first illustration, wear stylish empire jack- ets with thin white gowns. The little bru- nette’s jacket is dull blue camel’s hair. The sleeves are small leg o’ mutton, with- out trimming. Dull blue satin ribbon, they are worn. The belt should be sepa- rate and have some stiffening, and then the sash ends can be attached. Two-inch ribbon is also in style. When it is used the ends are put on to the belt with rosettes or flat loops, which hang straight | down. These are now seen on many of the foulard gowns, and~are made either of black or white ribbon. re Belts and Buckles. : Belts of bias satin, tied in front, or, tath- er, at one side, in the loops called elephant’s ears, are becoming to almost. all figures, but look best for stout women when pulled dcwn in a point: only very slender ‘figures look well with: them pulled in tight at the waistline. 7 - Belts and buckles have lost some of their pularity; and while the severely plain leather belt with harness buckle is best with shirt waists, the fancy ribbons with | that in the confusion the coal scales let One of the daintiest dresses seen on the/ polka dotted in white, is quilled around the lawn was of pink silk muslin patterned] collar and the shoulder epaulettes. Four with tiny bunches of pink rosea. This skirt | white pearl buttons fasten the jacket. The was finished at the hem with a double fri | CO@t worn by the blonde is shorter, and is It has algé been sald that Mr. Gadsby re- moved fromthe Franklin House to the site ncw occupied by the’ Metropolitan. This is untrue. Gadsby never occupied tn Wash- ington but?'the two’ places named above, He came here from Baltimore, where he kept a number one ‘house on West Balti- More street, not fat from the corner of Light street. I have often heard my elders say that his Baltimore house was not cx- celled, if equaled, anywhere. W. W. B. —___. ‘Am Exciting Race. From Truth. \ “Watch me rattle off cyclometer. - Sr "ll bet you even money I can rattle off thousand before you do your hundred, even if the gas is turned off,” shouted the gas meter, excitedly. 3 ‘Whereat everybocy became so interested sent to have the trigger made B e i E J } century,” said the EFEF F i if 2 & e i i 3 gE eg fil 1,850 6s of coal get on to the load be- fore they: tallied up the ton, and it was even rumored that two Chicago aldermen i I i F F to =o ——+o+____ Krew His Busincas. “what is the meaning of all these Iad. ders leaning ageinst, the trees?" “His excellency is ¢oing to have a boar hunt tomorrow. ,