Evening Star Newspaper, July 17, 1897, Page 16

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JULY 17, 1897-24 PAGES. Parisiennes for the Nonce Are Quiet in Their Tastes. RESULT OF THE RECENT DISASTER A Tea Gown Designed by Felix, the Famous Costumer. IS POPULAR on DARK BLUE ce of The Evening Star. nt, 189 Win. Du Bois.) PARIS, July 2, 1897. en the late sporting festivities have not been able to lift Paris out of its de- jection over the fearful catastrophe of the Bazaar de Charite. Bright colors,which had reigned before in joyous anticipations of the gay fiower corso, for which exten- tive pre ons had already been made, ad changed to doleful ions, were suppressed, and ¥ gowns trimmed with black pas- sementerie or jet, or black jet ornaments and jet boleros, indicate the conessstons » to the general mourning. It is not surprising that even her garb of sorrow’ the Paris.enne wears with a co- quettishness which is all her own. This is shown in the graceful little black capotes, jet trimmed and adorned with black plume aigreties or folded bands of black velvet fastened with antique oxidized silver buckles. Kuches of black silk gauze and neck trimmings of black ribbon are worn with white batiste summer gowns. Black (Copy ri and white, therefore, come anew to the fore, particularly for the demitoliette. A white moire gown with black silk bolero, jet embroideries, jet buttons and rv garnitures of jet and black tulle, proved so charming a combination, ai combined rropriety with chic in such a becoming mann $ blonde at a re monde re tion, that it ci sd due furore and ad- miration. Among the h are likely to take the fa: of are black and white striped moires, white silk reps speckled wrih black, white and black Pekins, linon either black or ecru with lines of black, a adi vith large black and white en taffeta with > ey wn as a novel- rials of various de- ust be reckoned—tine @nd etamine among woolens, and among washing materials, white pique reps and soft India muslin. Color Combinations. Other color combinations, novel as well as subdued, are found in the use of lilac and silver grey. colors shcws a cloth application on silk, decorated leaf designs in white, white moire lining and full neck-friil with bow and long ends of “poudre de riz” tulle. Dark blue als ascen in public favor since {ts use is no Ionger confined to outing costumes. A beautiful gown of dark blue cashmere veloute has just left our ateliers to be worn by a woman whose typical beauty is in- Getting Sunday Dinners fn the Sum- mer. From Good Housekeeping. There are any number, of things which may be prepared on Saturday. Usually the baking fs done then, and there fs fresh bread. with biscuits and cakes. A pot of deans is prepared on Saturday afternoon and warmed for Sunday breakfast. The desserts for Sunday may also be made en Saturday, and a few are easily prepared and are good cold. When fresh fruit fs to be obtained, nothing makes nicer dessert and is more quickly prepared. Served with rich cream and sugar, any of the berri. peaches or bi anas are Hi pus. Poi may be served In a number of ways which only take a short time if partially prep zred on Saturday. It is customary to have a roast of some kind for Sunday, but this requires hours of attention. If cold meat is not relishe me kind which may be fried will only take a shcrt time to pre- pare. Chickens may be partially fried on Saturday, so that ten or fifteen minuzes on Sunday will fin’ them. Saturday roast may be sliced culd for Sunday even- ing, and the chicken or turkey for a salad may be chopped on Saturday, ready for the dressing on Sunday. There are canned lob- ster and salmon, which y also be en- joyed on Sinday, and wiich are ready. Soups may be cooked on so and reheated for dinner on Sunday As for fresh vegetables, nothing ts so cas! ly prepared as a lettuce salad. The lett. may be washed and picked over in the morning and left in cold water to keep crisp until needed. Most canned vegeta- bles require only ten or fifteen minates to cook. Fresh asparagus, if tender. requires but fifteen minutes, and radishes may be cleaned the day before or in the morniag. ——+e2<—_____ The Rage for Jewelry. From the Londo Truth. What a rage there is for jewelry, mock and otherwise. We know a girl who wears diamond combs in her hair at tennis. Our charwoman arrived in diamond earrrings (price, probably, something like 3 farthings) the other morning; and a retired charwo- ™man of our acquaintance, whose husband is @ postman, had a row of pearls sewn on the edge of the white frilling round her Black cloth jacket when last she called tor food advice and broken victuals. Dut she =a A dainty cape in these! j the herited frem Irish ancestors. The skirt of blue cashmere, faultless in fit, is abso- 7 The bodice is entirely smooth at the back where it stretches silk lining. The front is loose, ng at the left side by a very iarge + of white satin veiled with exquisite heavy cream colored Irish point. The V- d opening thus, formed at the neck is filleg out by a plastron of white India silk with tucks and narrow insertions ot ish point. The left side of the opening d by a ruching of white Irish point, and the high and flari collar is lined with lace ccvered w A wide folded empire belt of dark blue velvet encircles tne it, finished at the left side wi fer the rever by two simili buckles se ized silver. The plain urmounted by a puff. A long teh chain of rare and exquisite hip gives this costume an as- pect of antiquity which is very pictu"esque. Gayer colors prevail in indoor toliets or “at home” gowns, which our model of a ttests. It is to be worn by an nm a new play to be pre- Next theater season. We tic merits will appeal to hope that iis art American taste A Handsome Tea Gown. The gown consists of white taffeta, tur- quoise blue satin and real lace, materials Particularly well adapted for summer wear. The back and sif2s of white taffeta are cut “prince the back being covered with a wide Watteau fold, which ends in a long train of white taffeta lined with tur- quoise blue satin and bordered’ on the in- side with a flounce of lace. The front opens over an underdress of lace, and has very ar- tistic spiral revers of turquoise blue satin, exquisitely ered with seed pearls, simili silver threads. The skirt 1s folded back, forming revers widening to- d the bottom, and disclosing the tur- auoise blue lining. The underdress flows in loose folds from a small yoke atthe decol- lete neck, and is composed of real Brussels lace over a loose lining of white taffeta. A bard and girdle of turquoise blue satin, following the lines of the yoke, confine the fullhess of the devant at the waist and chest. Both are embroidered like the yoke. Special attention is called to the sleeve, which Is“unequaied in its artistic arrange- ment. White silk forms the wrinkled yet close-fitting arm. and the puff ts draped by a flounce of real lace. The cuff represents the most novel shape, being cut fn one with the sleeve.“and forming a square “patte” of turquoise blue satin, embroidered like the revers and filled out by a graceful fall of lace. Bows ®f wide turquoise blue satin ribbon adorn ihe shoulders, sleeve puffs and hair, the latter being also coiffe, with pearl combs. rrings of large round oriental arls, surrounded by small dia- match the costume in accordance h the newest fad of Parisian fashion- who in these days of rage for jewels a set of earrings to match each par They are worn at home only or with ‘grande toilet,” so they generally dis- play the finest gems in the owner's collec- tion, A Parisienne is very sparing in the play of her jewels, although her jewel case may contain gems of priceless value. To wear conspicuous jewelry on the street is ccnsidered vulgar, and this reminds me of Madame Bernhardt's aversion to wear- ing diamonds near the fece. She contends their sparkle dims by comparison the hiness of the eyes and makes coarse licacy of the skin. She agrees herein famous Madame Recamier, whose tivated the great Na- . and whose unexcelled elvety softness with which she always exquisite pearls wore, claiming that notaing enhanced a fair skin more than the dull pearls, luster of hares her love of “finery” with her The ball gowns of this season are a@ mass of meretricious glitter. When it is embroidery, it has some reason for exist- ing, in the skill of the worker and the artistic sense of the designer. But there is no such condonation for strewing mocl siamends all over a gown, ts there? It 1s quite on a par with our sup2rannuated charlady’s pearls. Ropes are in high favor, loth on necks and round hats. The first sounds rather suggestive of the hangman, does it not? But I refer to pearls. Most of them ure the “Orient,” but as they cannot be told from real ones and greatly aid the beauty of the wearers, why shoul) the latter 1s them for want o: wh the costly daug' You may say thi condemning artificial diamenis rpplies in this case. Not at all. The “gems” that are bought by the gross are flagrantly false and encumber the gown with arti- They do not embellish the wear- only make her “fine,” which is a The pearls are very different. make beauty go mor» beautifully, i very certainly do not belong to the order of decorations that are bought py the gross. +e The Temptation Too Grent. From Life. x Elien—“Why don't you put a couple of oysters on those black eyes o’ yourn?” Tom—“I did. I tried it twiced, but some- furder up how I can’t never get them no than my mout’.’* ——__-+e+___. ahey bring answers. “Want” ads. In The Star pay because HOUSEHOLD HINT S| SMART: AND DRESSY Some one remarked to a man the other day that he scemed to be as much in love with his wife now that he had grandchil- dren as he was in the honeymoon. “And why should I not love her more?” he asked. “She has been a faithful, loving wife, she has been the best of mothers to my five children, she has made my home brigat for me and,” he added, with*a twinkle of his kindly eyes, “I do not remember in all these thirty years to have seen her in any- thing but a neat dress, though she was her own housemaid for at least ten of those years. You sce, she never gave me a chance to lose my respect for her." Pos- sibly the reason for the unabated love and respect of all those years lies in the last observation. So many women seem to lose respect for themselves after a time. ‘They Regiect themselves shamefully. Any old thing will do for a morning dress. Heads need net be combed till time to dress for dinner. Bathing to keep the skin clear and soft takes too much time, in fact they leave undone nearly all the things that they were so fond of dcing when they were Practiciug all their arts to “catch” a hus- band. ‘The servant who comes into your house neatly clad, and who does her work so admirably the first weck and then lapses into a lazy slattern, appearing in touseled head and greasy dress to answer the bell, who never scrubs her kitchen floors, and wastes the food you buy, very scon loses your confidence and gets her walking papers. A man cannot be much blamed when he finds that he has been fcoled much the seme way in his wife, if he stays out late nights and seeks pleasant company. Neithcr can a womar be much blamed if she sours on the world when she finds that her fine husband only dressed for show to procure himself a housekeper under the guise of marriage, and who is anything but the gentieman he appeared before mar- riage. After all marriage is a game of give and take, and the respect must be retained on both sides, but it is too sadly true that many women are to blame for the alienation of the affections of their husbands for the reasons named. If your eyes are weak and watery in the morning, put the tiniest pinch of pow- dered borax in a tablespoontul of water and bathe them gently with a soft linen rag. Never prcss the eye ball, as that flattens it in time, and brings on premature loss pf vision. The eyes are the tenderest organs of the body and the most easily injured by ignorant people. The eye ,once injured 1s injured for life, so have a care how you treat it. Poor overworked honsemother, don’t try to keep your carpets down all summer. It is ruination to the carpets, and the addi- tional work of sweeping them is more than you ought to endure. It is much easier to oil the floor, and wine it up every day with cold water than it is to drag a heavy carpet sweeper or broom over the thick carpet, kicking up dust and wearing out the carpet beside. Any painter will tell you how to prepare the stuff for oil- ing, and you can do it yourelf, uu can- not afford to hime it done. Clear cold water 1s all that is necessary for an oiled floor to clean it,perfectly. A few rugs will add to the appearance of the room, and these you can make yourself out of remnants of Brussels carpet that can be bought for a song. Fruit is the best of medicine in the sum- mer, as well as the best of food, if you se- lect it carefully, but if it has the least taint of sourness, reject it, no matter how cheap, unless you went io use it for jelly. Over-ripe fraft, however, does not meke good jeily. It will not ‘thicken properly, no matter how much sugar you use. Deal- er8 have a fashion of sprinkling a hand- ful of fresh berries over the day-old ones that have softened and settled down in the boxes, and when you get them home you have a mass of soured, molding fruit. When you find that you have been thus cheated pour the berries into a colander and dash clear cold water over them. Sev- eral quarts is sometimes needed, and this will carry away the mold and much of the sourness. Then put them over the fire with a little hot water, and make into Jelly. Stuffed tomatoes are delicious. Select medium-sized not over ripe ones, cut off a small stice of one end, and scoop out into a colander the soft inside, but do not touch the meat next to the skin. Drain all the juice from the part taken out, then mix with it a teacupful of bread crumbs to half a teacupful of the tomatoes, one ta- blespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and one egg beaten to a froth. Fill the tomatoes with this, put on the top aud bake in a well butt2red pan till dcne. f the juice that was drained off make a thick gravy with butter, salt and: pepper and a little flour and pour over the toma- toes when served hot. Sometimes the children are cross and de- velop signs of summer complaint when there seems to be no reason for it it all. ‘The cause will often be found in the drink- ing water. Dripk only distilled water, or such «8 has been bolle and bottled. ‘The cure is sometimes marvelous. Eggs that are to be used for cake in sum- mer are very much improved for frothing if put in ice water for fifteen minutes and beaten on an ice-cold plate or bowl. There is one infallible way to select good flour. Press a handful of -it and it will stick together in shape when the hand is unclosed, and will have taken on the wrin- Kies In the skin of the palm. When kneaded into bread it will not be bluish white, but 2 rich yellowish tint, and it will not stick to the hand. If it is sticky when made into dough it is poor stuff. Left-over fish is often a drug in the kitchen larder and remains to sour before being thrown out. Try this. Pick the fish free of bones and skin. Butter a baking dish and spread the bottom with the shred- ded fish. Salt and pepper the layer to taste. Sprinkle over this a thin layer of fine bread crumbs, then another layer of fish, and bread crumbs for the top. Beat two eggs to a froth, and stir into a cup of milk—to a quart of fish and crumbs—and pour over the mixture. On top put two tabfespoonsful of butter well spread around, and bake till done. It will answer to put the butter in the second layer of fish. Half a cup of cream makes it richer than using all milk. Serve hot. : This is a meat pie fit for the gods, and was a favorite of Mrs. Henry Ward Beech- er. Boll half a dozen medium-sized, mealy potatoes, mash very smooth, then pour on them half a cup of rich, sweet. milk, salt and mix in flour to make a dough that will roll nicely. Roll a_half-inch-thick layer for the baking dish, butter and put in. Cut your nice juicy steak or raw beef into inch equare pieces, and line the dish. Over this slice thinly one or two raw potatoes, and if you like, one small finely minced onion Salt, pepper and lard with a tablespoo: ful of good sweet butter. Add a teacup of water, sprinkle a little flour over the top, and put on the upper crust, making it at least an inch thick. Bake an hour and a half. Of course, you must watch the, oven carefully to keep the crust from burning. A griddle on the bottom of the cven, and a pan of water on the grate, will aid materiaNy. A thick brown paper over the dish will be added protection. The oven should be a little slow. Alas, that so few women recognize the fact that one gown well made is worth three badly put together. It is always poor economy to buy the really cheap: woolens, that is, those that are half shoddy, and that le and shrink and do all sorts of horrid things. On the other hand, the ex- nsive organdies, swisses and French lawns are the poorest of economy, because they do not launder, they have to have silk and satin accessories to make them presentable, and are awfully expensive in the long rup, The pretty cheaper lawns are always to be commended, for they have some body to them, the colors are generally fast, and they do not lose their shape. There is just as mucit economy in buying a good article that will last two or three seasons, and really more, than there is in buying a cheap article that will last but one season. It is said that the circular dress skirt is ing out, and for the sake of symm: ft is to be hoped that the rumor is ieue, There never was anything so caricatured as the circular skirt. The most difficult thing to make, and-the hardest thing to fit, every woman who could use a needle made them, and then went around looking as — she was deformed, with her ‘dress up to her ankles in front, drag- ging the ground at the sides and hitched up in the back. So few women seem to look below their lean bes Py ort toe a gown hangs or : details this mark the well-dressed woman, Frank—‘Some genius in Birmingham Billy—“Why, that's old. ‘ve worn-the = a 's ‘worn-them ever since my wife learned to ride a bike,” A Costume Designed for a Yachting OF EVER SERVISEABLE BLUE SERGE Would Be Quite as Effective at a Seaside Resort. GOWNS OF GREEN DUCK Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, July 14, 1897. YOUNG WOMAN wko was married two weeks ago with the scent of roses and of clover drifting in at the church door is by this time smelling salt instead of flow- ers. She is spending her honeymoon cruls- ing along the Atlan- tic coast in prepara- tion for which delight ih her yachting gowns ZUG claimed more atten- tion than all the rest of her trousseau. ‘The most serviceable of these dresses is at the same time the smartest. It was chosen board ship before the anchor was up and the sailor boys proceeding to “walk her down to Mother Carey when she feeds her chicks at sea.” It is not necessary to con- clude that there is nothing new under the sun if it be stated that this preferred gown St. % | for wear when good byes were said on| FOR SUMMER YACHTING PARTIES. three or four blades and two or three han- dies. Duck an@ Drilling. Green is a very good color for a water dress, either for seashore wear or in the country, and sailcloth is a good material. Duck and drilling are the most service- able stuffs for the hottest of the weather. A very successful dress completed lately had a skirt of sea green duck turned up at the bottom with white linen edged with braid of a much darker green. The blouse was of fine white cambric with a broad fiat sailor collar edged with green ribbon. It opened in front upon a vest of white net run with green ribbons. It was worn with a broad white ribbon belt and a white sailer hat trimmed with wings. Such a costum: is not m2ant for wear on ship- board when “she's snortin’ under bonnets for a breath of open sea;” but for an after- noon fete on a yacht or for a water picnic it is cocl, pretty and has a sufficient trail of seaweed. Blue linen makes up well also. It can be hal this summer very fine and shecr and combines excellently fo> the purposes of the water gown witn ecru linen or with white. White flannel with no touch of color but a small blue cord at the seams is finding great favor in highly influential quarters, made with an Eton jacket usu- ally. I have seen the colors reversed in importance once or twice and recall a par- ticularly effective dress of bright blue flan- nel corded with white silk very sparingly. ELLEN OSBORN. THE WAGES OF THE MAID, Why Natt ‘Born Women Object to Domestic Service. From Harper's Bazar. The wages of the maid are larger in some cities than in others, and in some parts of the same city they vary according to the comparative wealth of the residents. But everywhere the wages of women en- | gaged in housework are relatively larger than the salaries earned by women in branches of business involving no more skill or capacity than is required of the domestic assistant. It must be remember- ed that in addition to her weekly or month- ly stipend the cook and the waitress, the | Parlor maid and the seamstress have also Gn is of navy blue sdrge. It is true that no fabric ever was woven to equal a thor- oughly good serge for water wear, while as to build and finish the design that 1 shall describe to you can be turned into an altogether commonplace affair if you like to ebuse it so. But it is quite as easy and altoge*het more satisfactory to make it the smartest gown of the season. Dress- ‘es. with such strongly marked class charac- teristics as yachting costumes must follow perforce certain main lines of trimness and consistency from season to season, but for this very reason the thousand and one de- tails in which freshness and originality are possible are magnified in importance and insisted upon. A Moderate ‘Skirt. The skirt of the costume introduced with so much formality is cut of the Englisn walking length, that is @ trifle shorter than is usual with us. It is built to hang straight in front and at the sides. Nar- rower skirts have their disadvantages In a wind. The back Is almost flat at the top, but sets out in folds at the hem. ‘This par- ticular skirt is silk lined. Many women consider this ttem an unnecessary expense for an outing gown, while others take the position that the lining of a water dress is apt to be much less of a stranger to the compeny than the linings of its more de- mure and decorous closet mates, and there- fore it must be presentable. Two very nar- row foot frills of navy blue silk are set just inside the hem. Their advantages are not disputed even by women who frown down the silk lining; in whose absence, by the way the bottom should be faced up with a more than commonly deep hem. The skirt is trimmed with black silk braid, worked in a smart design on either side of the front at the waist and running up the seams from the bottom. The bodice is a vest of white poplin, cut to cross over in front and fasten by the left side with six small gold buttons. It 1s edged with just a line of gold braid. Heavy white silk would be an equally good ma- terial, while some tastes might prefer white flannel, or, for the sake of eoolness, white pique. A’ stock collar and tie constitute the throat finish and at the waist comes a broad belt of navy blue, white and pale blue ribbon. If it's not tco late to say it, pale blue pique, instead of white, wouldn't make a bad vest, but red should be avoided. There has been so much red of late that pretty soon there won't be any. A Nautieal Sacque. With skirt and vest belongs a sacque coat. The reefer is corstitutional, but the sacque is newer, smarter and not less nau- tical. It is long enough barely to cover the waist, and in the trousseau example I am talking about it is lined throughout with white sjJk, which is turned back in front ‘in squ@re-cgrnered revers. The re- vers, it ought taitbe said very definitely, are cut in ore with the fronts. The flat collar is a trifle Harrower than the revers and is faced, with navy blue silk edged with white. Here again there is room tor a difference gf opinion. Velvet might be used for the collar, but it is hot looking stuff In summer. The sleeves are close- fitting except, just,at the shoulders. They have silk cuf ed with white top and bottom. If a blue vest were chosen in lieu of a white one the jacket finishings might or might not be of blue also. A repeat of the skirt braid abt To complete this outfit is required a white or navy. blue sailor hat with a band to match the,belfribbon and some smart vhita wings. “Now Wt is fot given to every woman to go yachting, either for a honeymoon trip or on any Other more prosaic occasion, And that is where the particular beauty of this very trim gown comes in. It is not an extreme type but would be quite as effective on the board walk of a s side resort as on shipboard. Indeed I can recommend it very confidently as one of the most fetchirg toilets possible for any sort of seashore wear. One change only might bo’ advisable. The thermometer runs higher on land than on the water, and for July and August the vest could be reserved for cool days, and elther a stiff fronted shirt or a silk or muslin blous: substituted for other occasions. With a éctted muslin blouse in blue and white or in white only an ideal costume could be evolved for river boating. A more dressy: affair in sflk would arm one cap-a-pie for a of water excursions. The owner has &@ white serge skirt to wear with the jacket, as well as a variety blouses, but worn a8 contemplates so ears across the revers. | Frum Harper's Bazar. board and lodging, both excellent of their kind. A thrifty woman in service needs to spend very little on herself beyond what it costs for her clothing, her car fare and, in case of illness, her doctor's bills and medicines. As against domestic service the chief objection, so far as intelligent women are concerned, does not le in the amount of the wages; it is probably due to two con- siderations that it finds so little favor in the eyes of native-born Americans. One objection, and a strong one, is that it in- volves a loss of caste, of social standing; that women of fair education and respect- able position in the community feel that they descend a step when they become household assistants in any paid capacity. A second objection which servants urge with much reason is’ the lack of personal freedom which their work entails. They have no clearly defined hours in the smail household where one maid, or at most two. may constitute the force, and their work 1s never done. It is always overlapping, and in ore way or another its loose ends are being unraveled. They must ask leave to go out; they must return at a certain hour. ‘The saleswoman, the factory opera- tive, the dressmaker’s apprentice, the skilled needle-woman, even the charwoman and the laundress, are privileged to go home at the end of the day, and may em- Ploy their evenings as they choose. It would seem that there is a measure of reason in this complaint of insufficient in- dependence, and the remedy is in the hands of the mistress. Where there are several maids there should be an understandin| that one or two of them shall be on dut: in the evening, but that they may arrange among themselves the manner of their .go- ing out. Where there is only one, the raistress ought to lighten for her the bur- den of restraint. ‘A housekceper owes to fellow-residents in her town and in her immediate neigh- borhood a certain degree of unselfish con- sideration. If the scale of wages for the maids on her street is at the rate, say,.of $12, $14 and $16 per month, she must not raise it in her household to so much higher an amount that comparison will cause dis- satisfaction. As a rule, the wage-payer must consult the convenience of other Wage-paying people around him, and the Wage-earner must accept the conditions of wrase-earning in the locality where he or works. applies to every one else. v ae ee ~coo—__ Paper Clothing. According to a French paper journal, the Japanese have for a long time been making underclothing of their finely erisped or grained paper by pasting the sheets to- gether at the edges so as to form large Pieces. After the paper has been cut to a pattern the different parts are sewed to- gether and hemmgd, and the places where the buttonholes are to be formed ure strengthened with calico or linen, explains the American Manufacturer. The material is very strong and at the same time very flexible. After a garment has been worn a. few hours it interferes with the move- ments of the body no more than do gar- ments made of fabric. The stuff is not sized nor is it impermeable, but even after it has become wet the paper is difficult to tear. When an endeavor is made to tear it by hand it presents almost as much resistance as thin skin used for making gloves. Parting. fe AKO FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Proper Thing This Season in Parasols and Umbrellas. Belts Are Narrow and Harness Buck- les Are the Favorites—Chatelaine Bags—Other Toilet Requisites, Written Exclusively for The Evening Star, Paras have undergone a radical change since last year, and this will be hailed with rejoicing by the woman who unites a desire for present styles with a moderate income. The elaborate, chiffon- covered creation has had its day. It may be seen marked down at every bargain counter. The parasol of the present is a plain coaching parasol, and by judiciously choosing the shade one may be made to do dcuble duty, or even quadruple, where one cannot have a hat or a parasol to match every gown. This does not mean that parasols no longer match gowns. Many are made every summer to go with a particu- lar costume. The blue and white combi- nations so popular this year are generally accompanted by hats and parasols in har- mony, if not an exact match, but it is not obligatory. Changeable taffeta parasols much used, and the combinations seem more alluring than ever. White parasols with a hemstitched hem look very cool on these hot July days, and tempt those of us who had bravely decided to forego this accessory to our light gowns to indulge in one. This hemstitched hem may be seen in other colors, but looks best in white. Tucked parasols are also seen in many shops, changeable red taffeta silk with tucks of white laid on it being shown in one of the most exclusive shops. Such riking combinations, however, show!d not e purchased by those who cannot afford to lay them aside when tired of the novelty and brilliancy of shade. Gros grain and moire parasols are seen very often, and have a more staid look than the taffeta. They are more suitable for the chaperon of the summer girl than for that interesting damsel herself. Umbrell::s grow thinner and thinner and the handles smaller and smaller, until one wontlers what will support them over one's head on a rainy day if they continue to grow more modest. The favorite umbrellas are of dark changeable, green, blue or red silk, with a smooth, straight, wooden han- dle, finished with a tiny round knob of silver or of mother-of-pearl finished with silver. Of course, this modesty of design makes the very best sort of an umbrella within the reach of a not too weil lined purse. are still Belts and Buckles. Belts are still very narrow, though wo- men who consult the dictates of good sense, as well as fashion, wear a belt of the width which best suits their own particular style. Monkey skin leather, with a gold buckle exactly like a harness buckle, is being shown by jewelers, and is the belt of the hour. But for shirt waists less expensive leather belts answer the purpose very well, and give a finished appearance without the expense which is involved in following the fad of the hours. Whether. in leather, sil- ver or gold, the buckle is much plainer than last year. The gold belts with jewels set in cach link are very beautiful. One model shown with huge sapphires is designed to be worn with a silk waist with blue stripes, and another with large amethysts matches ex- actly the dainty waists with lavender and white stripes. These belts, however, should not be worn with ordinary shirt waists or with simple cotton gowns by those who study good taste. Chatelaine bags matching the belts from which they are suspended are more used for bicycling than for ordinary «ccasions, though it seems it is a sensible fash- ion and one which should be followed at all times. There is no contrast in leathers of different colors or materials. They simply antagonize each other. Yet alli- gator bags, shaped more like a pouch with @ narrow mouth than the old square style, are worn, while alligator belts are no longer seen. Silk ribbon belts are not as popular as they were a short time ago, and their wan- ing popularity is doubtless due to the-fact that one cannot suspend from them the skirt supporters which have reformed the back of the shirt’ waist. These little skirt supporters, which, by the way, are prettier in-oxidized silver-than in eny- thing else, need a stiff leather belt to keep them in place. Card cases and pocket books also have fallen victims to the monkey skin craze, until one is tempted to get them in eny- thing but this skin, so as to be a little different from the rest of the world. “Real” rhinoceros and elephant hide pock- et books are shown in a few shops. The leather is very rough and uneven, some- thing like the roughest alligator, only with less even corrugations. Accessories to the Toilet. Fans are so monotonously and uniformly our Japanese neighbors are mak- in that style, and a noted Jepan- house in New York shows thovsands all short, until one wonders wheth- - lady in the cherry his Silesian estate at daybreak, he found blossom pictures did noi start the fashion herself and we get it from her. Of course, the up-to-date woman must have each and all these accessories to her toilet. Yet, if her income be small, she can economize as to variety, get a good quality which will last a long time, and not try to have the design used cniy by those who can afford to follow the passing whim of an hour. A well-selected para- sol will keep its freshness more than one season. A cood leather belt will be fresh next year, while a pocket book of real ther will be unworn at the end of a ear’s continuous gervice, both summer and winter. Chatelaine bags ure only worn by those who have much to carry or who have no pockets at all, and it pays to get a good hag in the first place, us it will last for year. The life of a good silk umbrella is not of the longest, yet even they should stand two winters’ down- pours if of good quality, and one will have m of good articles, though few in number. If one feels a little envy of those who are able to vary with every nod of Dame Fashion’s head it should be remembered that families never think of altering their beautiful and expensive garments to conform to the whim of the hour, but wear from one generation to another their costly furs and heavy silks. ———.—__ KEEPING THE HOUSE COOL. le Care Intense Summer Heat m Be Greatly Modified. “How best to keep the house cool in sum- mer is a grave problem,” writes Mrs. S. T. Rorer in the Ladies’ Home Journal. “Dur- ing the hot months the house is much more livable if artificial heat can be cut down to the minimum. Use the stove early in the morning, prepare certain foods that will keep well, and avoid the necessity of a big fire during the rest of the day. Bare flooors are very much more pleasant in summer than straw matting, although the latter is preferable to carpets or rugs. Where one can command a water supply the house is measurably cooled by reducing the temperature of the pavement and grounds around by copious sprinklings. A goodly stream of new air should be allowed to sweep through the entire house morning and evening. The hot air of midday will condense quickly on cold walls and cause mold or dampness, consequently it should not be allowed to enter any portion of the house. All the rooms in the house should be kept scrupulously clean and neat. “If the outside temperature is not appre- ciably lower at night than during the day it is almost impossible to keep sufficiently comfortable to obtain necessary rest. The sleeping rooms may be cooled by placing in the center of each a tub two-t fuil of cool, or better, icewater. This will ab- sorb the heat of the room in a few hours, and will be found particularly helpful where there are children. If the heat con- tinues during the night the changing of the water will preserve an even temperature in the room. Air your cellars at night when it is possible. Close them at nine in the morning ‘and they will be cool and dry the entire summer. Exceptions to this rule are on windy days, as the rapid motion of the air does not allow condensation. Keep the cellar perfectly clean and fresh. Frequent coats of whitewash with plenty of lime are of the greatest value in summer.” ———_+ + Written for The Evening Star. “Traumlied.” (Dream-Song.) Away with care! Let silence remgn, And o'er me, sweet sleep, steal again; Let memories of the long ago Pour through my soul their sunny glow. Fair forest flowers, ‘Covi drops of rain, And golden hours ‘Are come again! I wander down the beechen glade Where oft-in childhood I have strayed By a On waves of bila my senses swim Inte a land of shadows dim; Each friend of boyhood pow appears And smiles, as in those by-gone years ‘The misty dawn, ‘The sunbright noon, ‘The emerald lawn Lit by the moon, Are by remembrance glorified, With not a shade nor tint denied. ‘Thus calmly sleeping, let me die; ‘Yea, thus Lreathe ont my last, deep sigh, At some bright midnight, when the vale ‘Low echoes to the nightingale. m5 ‘The f i i rf i : i i ll