Evening Star Newspaper, June 12, 1897, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JUNE 12, 1897-24 PAGES. : ——3 tt} ——5— ———————_ ELEGANT PROMENADE COSTUME. ss or linen duck outing gowns. As it is a guise of fashion, however, which has noth- ing to recommend {t but oddity it will soon be on the wane. It is very different with the bolero, which continues as a useful as well as ornamental article of dress on meny new models—indeed as long as the bicuse is worn the bolero will not be aban- doned. The rage for pleatings strongly affects the bodice, which still retains the blouse form in spite of ail endeavors to suppress its popularity. With the wonderful trans- formations which the blouse assumes we may well say, “La blouse est mort!—Vive la blouse!” “A novelty shows the latter fan-pleated with simulated belt, epaulettes and yoke of cross-barred narrow velvet ribbon. The ekirt shows the eame ribbon trimming at the hem. Although some feshionable ateliers have ostracised the separate blouse and the ultra-fashionable women may abandon it this summer, it has been found so economical and practical that it continues to flourish in spite of its condemnation. For the simpie shirt waist, so invaluable for sporting wear, bright Scotch plaid worsted or ginghams are used as well as finely checked or striped surahs or loui- sines, and linen batistes with a colored silk stripe. The skirt receives the most careful at- tention of the costumer and its unstable form is watched anxiously by his clientele. The fashion of 1830 has returned to us with drop skirts and flounces. Only soft materials like cashmere, foulards, India silks, embroidered tulle, etc., are used for the rejuvenated, old-fashioned ruffles, which must be cut bias. All barre or canvas goods, as congress, grenadine, etamine and the old favorite barege, look well as drop skirts over taffeta underskirts. A new fea- ture in’ the becoming and youthful pleated skirt 1s the stitching of the pleats in front and over the hips, a style well adapted to wash goods, particularly dainty batistcs, printed in soft colors and graceful designs. Of Tan Colored Etamine. Our model for an elegant promenade cos- tume is made of tan-colored etamine over “fraise’ (strawberry) taffeta glace. The blouse bodice is composed of strips of gold embroidered “fraise” taffeta ribbon and real cream-colored guipure lgce, opening at the back over a V-shaped insertion of creamy pleated gauze and adorned in front by two reveres of wide taffeta ribbon edged with a tiny frill of cream-colored gauze and embroidered in dainty-colored silks, gold thread and spangles. These reveres open over a vest of cream-colored tucked gauze, each tuck being edged by a narrow flcunce of real Valenciennes lace and hav- ing two small ruffles of “fraise” taffeta in the center of the front to conceal the close FOR OUTDOOR WEAR Hints on Styles From Eminent Ger- man Costumers. A GOWN OF TAN COLORED ETAMINE Summer Wraps That Give a Finish to the Toilet. BOLEROS aND BLOUSES (Copyright. 1897, by Wm. Du Bois.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN, May 27, 1807. The Irresistible spring weather draws all humanity out into the parks and prom- erades, which are alive with an ever-mov- ing throng of fresh-air seekers—on foot, on horseback, awheel or reveling in the lux- urious ease of the rubber-tired, silk-cush- joned equipage. For all these modes of locomotion fashion has prepared various and varying styles of costumes. The spring wrap, a most important fea- ture of the outdoor toilet and destmed rather as an elegant finish to the gown than to give warmth or guard against Stray and aggressive zephyrs, is made of pleated chiffon-crepe, draped over change- able taffeta lining, jetted, spangled or silk embroidered laces. Jackets light in color and weight retain the close-fitting back and loose front, and comply with the taste of the wearer as regards length. The cloth cape has assumed a strange new form which makes the wearer appear like a huge moth just burst forth from its chrys particularly when the hat is decorated by two algrettes standing high to-right and left like feelers. One model to be worn by an ultra-fash- for able bride on her wedding trip is of tan cloth, cut in serpentine shape very long at the back and shortening at the sides toward the front, where it opens with two large stiff reveres over a vest of plaid | of the bodl . The = 7 ice. he collar consists of ee tee ooite Wicated tales. TUS | “tratsc™” tafkcta, covered with Gasly pleated very high flaring collar fs of tan cloth gauze and a frill ruche of real Valenciennes at the back. The walst is encircled by a wide belt of “traise” taffeta glace ribbon finished tn front by graceful bows and loops. The sleeves are of gathered eta- mine over a tight-fitting lining of taffeta and the moderate puff of the shoulder is draped by bows and loops of “fraise” taf- feta ribbon, while the wrist Is edged with a barrow flounce of cream-colored gauze. The close fitting and narrow skirt of eta- mine over a “fraise’ taffeta lining, is plain, except for the bias fold, three inches in width, of “fraise” taffeta glace and a narrow cream-colored gauze ruffle which hem it. Li tourine © ee MANN & STRAUSS, Frankfurt A. M.) lined with gre: blue and yellow plaid is filled out by a full ruche of vhite taffeta. Strips of tan cloth the cape and reveres with ser- and are stitched on with The hat worn with this unique ing wrap is a wide-brimmed tan ed sailor with plaid and white silk € nming, from which rise two black lending the odd resem- spoken of above. Another charm- ion for the light summer tollet wrap of silk gauze, ribbon which crosses over the bust end n over the hipe to the back, where it falls in long sash-like ends, The Sacque Coat. Women who favor the sacque coat will be delighted to accept this generally un- becoming but often smart and distinguish- ed looking garment In the newest pique wu nstruments or Toys? Musical | Department will acquiesce in the apprais- ac: SA NE Viel Sas cae Gel Ce | ers’ decision is a matter of doubt. ‘The aa 3 | experience of the last fifteen years or so ty jon by the board of general ap- | has been that mouth harmonicas were rs that mouth harmonicas are must- | either musical instruments or toye, which. ruments and not “toys,” and there- | ever at the time of importation was sub- fere dutiable at 25 per cent and not at | Ject to the lower rate of duty. 35 per cent, is another of the many changes | If ‘ou want anything, t : in the classification of these articles for = “4 Kot esl rele Customs purposes. Whether the Treasury F | Star. If anybody has what you wish, you | Wil get an answer. THE UNCERTAIN FUTURE. rom Life. bw He—“My darling, I ah feel like t. . : = ra erelesene ways aking off my shoes when I ose Pekan ‘ell, E would rather you @id it now than after we are married.” A MILE UP IN AIR Weather Bureau Experte Can Now Study the Upper Strata. THEIR APPARATUS APEACHED 70 KITES Will Be of the Greatest Assistance in Forecasting. MANY CURIOUS ———— HE UPPER AIR IS surcharged with Prophecy as to ap- Proaching weather conditions on the earth’s surface. In the matter of weath- er coming events cast their shadows before meny hours sooner about a mile or 80 above the earth than they do in the disturbed, eonstantly shifting and by no means infallible (for forecasting Purposes) air strata close to the earth, which up to the present time have been the sole reliance of the weather experts in making their predictions. It has only been within comparatively recent years that the weather scientists have thoroughly estab- Hshed the fact that warm and cold waves @re felt in the upper air considerably in advance of their prevalence at a station on the ground beneath. The discovery of this fact led a number of the most progressive among the world’s meteorologists, especial- ly those directly conected with govern- mental institutions for the determination in advance of weather conditions, to grap- Dle with the Probjem of devising means for making weather observations in the upper air—‘vertical” observations, they are term- ed, to distinguish them from “horizontal” observations, made from the domes of weather offices, with which the weather People contented themselves until they learned how pregnant with prophecy the upper air is. In attacking the task the weather people soon discovered how ex- ceedingly fallow their ground was. They tried all sorts of schemes before they hit upon the right one. ‘Tiiey sent up cap- tive balloons, with automatic meteoro- graphs attached, with fizzles only as the result, chiefly on account of a captive bal- loon’s cranky instability, the impossibility of letting captive balloons out to e suffi- cient height, and for other purely technical scientific reasons. Then they tried the plan of turning small free balloons loose, also with meteorographs attached, and with cards tacked to them directing the finders to return them to such and such an and receive a small reward. They got about one per cent of them back. Many were the promising schemes the weather scientists cooked up to conquer the fickleness of the upper air, and many were the baffling fiascos they encountered in their attempts, before they harked back to the dawn of history to borrow a Chinese idea, perpetuated through the ages by the world’s small boy—the kite. The thinj has now been carried to such a point o perfection that the kite, as modified and improved by the brainy men of the occi- dent, promises to soon become the most important bit of paraphernalla in the me- teorologist’s outfit, with the exception of his ordinary meteorological instruments. At the Weather Bureau. The United States weather bureau (which, sans spread-eagleism, is univer- sally admitted to be the most admirable of the world’s weather bureaux) has been in the forefront in efforts to master the prob- lem of upper air observations, and it was practically in the lead in hitting upon the kite as the most practicable device for do- ing the work. Prof. Moore, the head of the weather bureau, could not devote the nec- essary amount of time to the solution of the kite puzzle, and so he turned the in- vestigations which he had planned over to his meteorologist, Prof. C. F. Marvin, one of the most distinguished and able among the younger American scientists. Prof. Marvin has now been carrying on his kite experiments almost within cannon shot of Washington for three years, and he has solved in aimost every detail the riddle of obtaining perfect weather observations a mile or more above the ground. Prof. Marvin has conducted all his more recent kite experiments on a patch of level, open ground back of the Arlington Nation- al cemetery, near the Arlington settlement. On this patch of ground he had a small shed constructed for the stowing of his ap- paratus, which, to the eye of the layman, appears awesomely complicated and in- velved, the kite itself, which resembles nothing so much as a much-enlarged trans- parency of tue sort carried in political pa- rades, appearing to be the most simply de- vised contrivance of the paraphernalia. The stout reeling apparatus, used for letting the kite out and hauling it in stands at a distance from the shed. “The letting out and hauling in of a cel- lular kite,’ said Prof. Marvin to a Star reporter, in exhibiting this reeling ma- chine, “may be compared.to the launching and the return of a lifeboat through the surf. When a lifeboat gets beyond the surf line and out of the breakers, the worst danger is over until its return through the surf line. A scientific kite en- gages in the most inexplicable antics when it 1s first turned loose in the lower air stratum—the ‘ntangible ‘surf line’—and, al- though it may hang as steadily as a stan- chion in the air a mile above the earth, when we begin to reel it in and get it haul- ed down again to the lower air currents, it immediately resumes the kicking up of didoes that are both maddening and dan- gerous for the kite. At such times the strain on the steel wire holding the kite to the reel is very great, as is indicated by the instrument we have devised for reg- istering the tension. Within a month or so we shall install a small two-horse pow- er steam engine to control the reel, and then the kites may be let out and taken in automatically.” = The Problems for Solution. When Prof. Marvin first undertook the job of making the kite serve meteorological ends he tried nearly all the oddly shaped box kites that have been experimented upon by scientists for various purposes, such as signaling and photographing, for the past dozen years or so, and he found them all unsatisfactory for weather obser- vation purposes. The first of the cellular kites, shaped like a box, was invented by an Australian scientist, Hargrave by name; but Prof. Marvin, after giving the Har- grave kite every possible show to distin- guish itself, found that it wouldn’t do for meteorological uses. By this time Prof. Marvin had become pretty thoroughly in- oculated with kite theories, ideas and’ lit- erature himself, and so, abandoning all the kites devised by his predecessors in the field, he undertook the invention of a cel- lular kite of the shape that would serve the end he had in view. Some of these kites which the weather bureau meteorolo- gist, with the assistance of Mr. 8. A. ter, another -weather bureau sclentist, con- structed were of exceedingly intricate pat- tern indeed, “beautiful to look at, with their side fans and flippers and rudders,” as the professor humorously acknowledges, “oniy they wouldn't work.” From ex- lesign Prof. Mar- leaped at a bound to the greatest simplicity of construction, and thereby immediately struck his metier. The final result of his strivings to make a kite ca- Pable of holding 3 - ments steadily in DEVICES er aE though the kite which hagdbeenjfinally set- tled upon ts something Wke- ten feet in length, and is threaded aB:ovegrwith stout spruce strengthening trusses; if weight is something under. eight poundse and. with the meteorograph attachefl to the kite line close to the kite the whele weight at the end of the line is not more:than ten pounds. Obstactes in tht Way. Another point in scieptific kite flying which Prof. Marvin concluded was a pret- ty sizable one by the tin he®had lost a number of his kites—one $f iif he never saw or even heard of again- the kite “string.” He tried all sorts of éxperiments with different kinds of wite, finally discov- ering to his satisfaction that-thée‘kite string best suited to his purpose is fine‘steel piano wire of about the thickne#s of a pin. One mile of this wire weighs 100 pounds, but aS a kite sailing a mile above the earth has a “sag” of almost another mile in so far as its string is concerned, the actual weight of the wire used in letting out a kite a mile from the ground is something like 200 pounds. The designing of a satisfactory kite for meteorological purposes was, of course, the heaviest task that confronted Prof. Marvin in undertaking his investigation. But when he finally achieved the right sort of a kite he found another moderately big job looming up before him—the combination of the weather observation apparatus ‘all in one connected instrument,with a sufficiently great reduction in the weight of such a] Paratus to permit of its hanging on to the ktte wite, near to the kite, without break- ing it. This work he has now accomplish- ed. His wire is capable of resisting a tug of 200 pounds at either of fts ends, and the weather scientist has so ingeniously com- bined the observation apparatus, and iight- ened it in the process of combining it, that he has a tugging margin of 100 pounds to spare—that is to say, the kite and the meteorological e@pparatus combined exert a pull of over 100 pounds only on the wire under ordinary conditions. The automatically registering observa- tion apparatus which ‘of. Marvin has several times sent above the clouds since May 1 has operated with clock-work pre- cision, and the resulta have been eminently satisfactory. All that he has to do is to “set” his instruments before the kite, with the meteorograph trailing a little under- neath it, begins its upward filght, and the fine needle pens attached to the apparatus do the rest, charting the weather condi- tions on the blanks continuously from the beginning of the ascent until the kite is hauled to the ground, the duration of an ascent lasting ordinarily from four to six hours. When the kite is hauled in the weather scientist pulls out the automati- cally inscribed charts from the. meteorolo- gical apparatus, and thus he has a perfect Picture not only of the state of the Weather a mile above the ground, but of its conditions at every intervening foot of the kite’s upward and downward flight. Therefore, it being a scientific fact, as stated at the beginning of this article, that a change in weather conditions makes it- self felt at a considerable distance above the earth a long time before the warning is given in the lower air strata, the fore- caster, with the aid of the kite observa- tions, ‘will in the course of a few months, AT A LONDON GARDEN PARTY. LACKING IN TASTE English Women Spend Lavishly on Their Clothes. season” it is to a republican observer a striking lesson on the advantages of a monarchica: system to see how the con- sciousness of noble birth can sustain women against the misfortune of being unable to take part in personally conducted dress- making expeditions. I have a theory that excessive tight lac- ing is more common in London than it would be if blouses were sold in sizes. However, I have not meant to imply that the time and money lavished on the toflet are altogether misapplied. There are too many French milliners and modistes here for that, and, thanks to them, rich stuffs are cleverly handled even more often than they are spoiled. A few examples: An evening drees prepared for these weeks of jubilee functions is of a soft powder blue brocade patterned in a quaint de- BUT RESULTS ARE NOT ALWAYS GOOD London is Behind the Times in sign of golden yellow. It is cut as a singu- when the use of the kites becomes gen- Many Ways. larly graceful empire gown with a broad eral, be transformed into a personage of belt of gray blue velvet. The short bodice almost absolute infallibility. —___e___ of yellow brocade embroidered with moon- light beads fs cut in a simple square at the neck and has loose elbow sleeves. For a State Ball. For a state ball is a dainty dreas of sun- pleated white satin with a soft overdress of white chiffon frilled about the hem. Some little distance below the waist are two Crowned With Success. The meteorological apparatus which Prof. Marvin has succeeded in ebmbining for his purpose ascertains and records of itself the four cardinal points of weather obser- vation, the basis for forecasting, namely, the temperature, barométricak pressure, GOWNS FOR THE JUBILEE (Copyright, 1897, by the Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. LONDON, June 3, 1897. wind velocity and humidity. — + OWHERE ARE | groups of trimming, made up of silver em- In making their expefiments over at women young so broidery set with diamonds and bordered Arlington, Prof. Marvin amd Mr Potter do old; nowhere are | top and bottom with ruches of white chif- not necessarily pay any ‘attention to the 3 fon. A similar trimming is used as a bertha on the bodice. Into the narrow waistband of black velvet a red rose is tucked, and at the back there is a very wide sash of white satin ribbon with broad ends reach- ing to the ground. A smart little garden party frock is of a petunia tinted foulard patterned with white in branching sprays. A narrow ruche cov- ered with one of lace finishes the hem of the round skirt, which is trimmed in front with two deep apron points of lace gath- ered full and edged with ruffies. The blouse waist has a lace front and the sleeves are bewilderingly complex affairs of lace and wheel ruffies. The large ‘white straw hat has a soft full crown and is trimmed pro- fusely with lace and roses. A second dress for a similar occasion is of red and white printed muslin made up over- white glace silk and made more at- tractive by a kind of spot embroidery car- ried out in crimson silk. The skirt is al- most covered with lines of cream lace in- sertion set on with a slight dip in front and bordered throughout with fine lace frills. The bodice and sleeves are crossed by a-similar insertion of iace arranged to fcrm a yoke and also serving as epaulettes on the close sleeves.. Round the waist there is a wide soft sash of white chiffon. The white muslin garden hat is trimmed with roses and white ostrich plumes. To Wear on a Houseboat. A novel dress for a houseboat entertain- ment 1s of green and white checked can- vas made very full over a separate founda- tion of green silk and trimmed round the hems with three narrow frills of <ream lace. The tepmost frill is headed by nar- row white satin baby ribbon drawn up very closely after the manner of the old French ribbon embroideries. The bodice is edged with the same white ribbon and trimmed very prettily with cream lace. The white satin bolero is cut square and covered with lace, while in front there are some novel irsertions in the form of diamond-shaped pieces of white silk tucked and finished with lace edging. Below the bolero is a folded belt of cerise satin fastened at the belt with a long silver buckle set with dia- meonds and rubies. The neck is set with silk ruffies and bows of cerise satin. For rather more formal wear is a prin- cess gown of a delicate silvery gray cash- mere elaborately braided with fine silver cerd and small silver sequins. The long lines of braiding start upon the bodice and reach half way down the skirt. Between the rows of braiding are stripes of inch- wide moire ribbon. The sleeves are odd and original, with puffs at the elbows. For the rest they are quite tight-fitting and cre ecvered with ribbon and embroidery tc cor- respond with the skirt trimming, Of Turquoise Blue. A dress of turquoise blue glace silk shot with white must come in also for consider- ation. The skirt is lined with pale mauve and trimmed with a graduated flounce of accordion-pleated silk beaded with chiffon. The bodice has a loose front of cream net covered with an applique of pale yellow lace, the design outlined with smali steel sequins and jeweled with large turquoises. At the throat the bodice is cut in a small square edged with a narrow band of mauve velvet caught with diamonds. The epau- lettes are of the embroidered net with its applique of lace and sequins, while the waistband is of the blue glace silk. The bonnet accompanying this dress is «om- Posed entirely of pale pink roses. A visiting dress of pale biscult-colored moire is quieter but elegant, with its plain skirt and bodice of turquoise chiffon shad- ing to green. A transparent bolero of black net edged with cream lace and turquoise glace is further ‘trimmed with an embroid- ery of jet and steel beads. The de>p wais band Is of black satin fastened with tur- women old so young; nowhere do women dress so well; no- where do women dress so glaringly ill; nowhere is there 60 little feeling for art; nowhere is there such a painful yearn- ing after the artistic. ‘These sentences are @ warrant for Bed- lam, and yet they express the truth to a stranger trying to understand London. I have seen Englishwomen punting on the ‘Thames, and Englishwomen at the state balls in honor of the jubilee; Englishwo- men at the afternoon teas and Englishwo- men at the Academy exhibition and in the New Gallery; Englishwomen on Pall Mall, and on the continent, and I have found them, always great, incomprehensible. They make innumerable blunders, they know none of them. They are happy because they believe themselves infallible. They are not sensitive, and cannot see the gulf that yawns between their sailor hats and their “art” gowns that are Botticelli filter- ed through Burne-Jones. They never see themselves as others see them, because they do not care for any judgment not English. They are rosy-cheeked, angular, of tired eyes. They believe themselves “five-meal, meat-fed’”” women, while they are exhausted nervously as any victim of “Americanetis.” They play tennis all day, dance all night, look used up, and pity the physique of other nations. The French are fussily anxious as to details, Ameri- cans are frankly imitative, but the British are supremely themselves, thoroughly self- satisfied in all contingencies. Therefore the British, sailor hats, poke bonnets and all, are to be envied. They can never feel humiliation. I have mentioned poke bonnets. They are among the most wonderful things in England. Women who can wear them and not feel themselves the butts of ridicule are born to be the mothers of great men. One cannot contemplate them without understanding why Great Britain feels herself invincible. There were several at an art exhibition this afternoon. They had crowns a foot or thereabouts in length, and they were shaped like an hour-glass, with one flare about the face and another quite clear of the head and some distance be- hind. There was one all in white and one in pink and one in heliotrope silk and chif- fon. This last was worn by a woman fa- tigued with living, sallow under her pow- der, and wrinkled. It was trimmed with white feathers that stood assertively erect upon it, and it looked—quite as it ought, I suppose, since no one joined me in staring at it. conditions of wind-or wéathér, for the whole effort in conducting. thet investiga- tions has been to deviseJe@ kitd! that will not only maintain its stability and equllib- rium under perfect conditions, but a work- ing kite capable of beingsused''every day for observation purpeses—éven when a cy- clene is in progress, or @ heavy rain or snow. storm—and this is the: sort ‘of kite they have succeeded in meakingy The per- fect self-control of the Marvin kite in the high winds of a great altitude f# the point that proves its perfection ang consoles the meteorologist for allyof his earlier flascos. ti The expense of establishing .a (kite obser- vation system throughgut ithe entire: coun- try at all of the 150 weather offices would, of course, be considerable. Such a thing is not contemplated under the present ap- Propriation for the work of:the weather bureau, but it is not unlikely that within a few mcnths at least twenty of the larg- est stations will be supplied. with the nec- essary paraphernalia for making kite ob- servaticns. It is not expected that the Kite observations are to entirely revolu- tionize the present admirable system of forecasting, but it is confidently exvected (the fact, in truth, has already been com- pletely proven by Prof. .Marvin), that the kite observations will not only enable the forecaster to make his predictions many hours sooner than he can make them from “horizontal” observations, but that the “vertical” observations shall furnish daia so, thoroughly reliable as to approach- ing weather conditions on the surface of the earth that under the new system the forecaster will find it almost impossible to err. ——.__ Written for The Evening Star. Ten Years, Ten years have passed since ‘neath the sod I gave my darling to her God; My eyes surcharged with tears of love, Which Time will crystallize above. . ‘Ten years of weary, wand’ ring care Have lashed me with their fume and fret, And I'm not happy anywhere, Because my soul cannot forget. Her vanished voice and golden curls Entrance my troubled heart today, When I behold the “boys” and “girls” ‘That loved her when she laughed at play. JOHN A. JOYCE, They Took Advantage of Their Op- portunity, From Fliegende Blatter. Are Very Gorgeou: Women at the preparatory jubilee func- tions are very gorgeous, when they have no “art” leanings. Englishwomen who take to nothing worse than texture get on famously, because such considerable num- bers of them have money enough to have textures better than most other people. It takes a particularly swell -ball in New York to bring out anything like the display of magnificent evening wraps to be seen six nights out of the seven at each of twenty or thirty London The quality of New York may be equally good, even better, but the quantity in London is overwhelming. It is the first requisite of a successful painter in London to be able to do satin, for if he is to live, he must paint gowns. The spring exhibitions in Paris are all women without clothes. The spring exhibitions in London are tlothes that might as well be without women. There are ft dresses and reception dresses. enough on the walls of the galleries to dress the windows of the smart shops of any city but London. And yet with all this devotion to the toilet London is queerly careless and be- he times. It does a bigger but remains an unrealized ideal is evident from the fact that in experience blouses take the attitude of the unintroduced toward their wearers. Without that cordial relations can be estabi! 1% cn dren, but there is great danger in that companionship, especially so if the dog has! been permitted to run at large. Dogs and! cats carry bacteria on their tongues of | most unmentionable character, and the’ habit that both creatures have of licking! the faces of those they love ts well known. ‘They carry infection in their fur, also, 80) animal playmates for children are not the‘ best things in the world, all conditions con-" sidered. If you have no ice box, a fairly good way to keep butter is as follows: Put the" butter in a porcelain bowl, and set thist bowl in a soup dish which is filled to brim-} ming with cold water. Turn over this so that it will sit on the edge of the soup! plate in the water a large cheap unglazed! flower pot, which has been dipped in water, Lay over the top of it a folded wet clot The constent evaporation of water oozing, through its pores will keep the butter sev- eral degrees cooler than the outside tem- perature. The flower pot must be kept wet all tne time. The papers have been full of the “solar; plexus” knock out, but there are very few, women who know that the way they flop down to rest, after a full meal or a hard! day's work, gives them nearly as bad a knock out in the end. Doubling up as you Ne down interferes with digestion, circula-, tion and respiration, because of the un+ natural pressure against the great gang-} lion of nerves, the solar plexus, situated{ below the diaphragm and behind “he sto-' mach. This pressure makes you nervous. d cross, and your rest will be without! avail. When you want to rest, really andi truly, pile the pillows up at your back ao! that every part of the backbone seems to/ have support, stretch out your limbs, let your murcles loose and rest without think-/ ing. That is the only way to get perfect! rest. A well stretched hammock is a boon to many nervous women, its gentle sway: ing motion soothing them wonderfully. Indigestion is superinduced quite often by,. the very bad habit Americans have of! drinking as they eat. Ice drinks, so com mon in summer, arrest digestion till the liquid becomes heated to the proper tem- perature, and disturb the flow of the gas-; tric juices. Tea and coffee, thought to be so injurious to a weak digestion, lose half, their terrors when they are taken after the meal is over. The natura! liquid for the dissolving of food is the gastric juice, but it is given no chance when liquids lik iced tea, hot coffee or lemonade are swal. lowed by the quart. Buttermilk, internally, or externally ap- plied, is a splendid thing. That for drink- ing should be sweet and not three hours from the churn. Its pleasant acid is agree- able to a jaded stomach, and cooling to the blood. That which is a day old is the be: cosmetic. Applied after a day's run on @ bicycle, it will cool the skin and allay ir- ritation. It ts said to be an excellent anti- dote for tan. The face should be gently sopped with it till the skin is moist and tender, then a fine bit of old linen must be used to rub the dust and grime out of the pores. After that is done apply and do not wash off till morning. A young lady who has a face like a lily, with La France roses on her cheeks, says that she has perfect digestion, but is her marvelous complexion by keeping on her toilet table a jar of soft water in which great big juicy slices of cucumber are soaking. She washes her face in the water, using a thick slice of cucumber as a wash cloth, rubbing her face and neck with it. Salsify is nice if it is properly cooked, but it is a horrible mess as served on most tables. It should be boiled about hour, and drained, and cut into inch bit Then put it back in the pan and pour over it enough cream or rich milk to more than cover. Salt to taste, when the milk has boiled up once, and put in a generous lump of butter, into which has been worked enough flour to make a nice cream-like gravy. That is the best way, but it may be treated as a salad, often boiling, and be served with vinegar and oil, or any, simple salad dressing. Peaches that are too tough and green to slice for the table are delicious when stewed. Peel them carefully and wash free of the fuzz. Stick a clove in each one, cook till tender and sweeten almost to a sirup. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Cutting Down the Sleeves of Last Year's Shirt Waists. New Ones Are of Thinner Material, wi Detachable Proper Thing in Ties. Collars—The Written for The Evening Star. ~f The up-to-date woman with the moderate income has been struggling with ner last summer's wardrobe. and has emerged tri- vmphant, but exhausted, after some ex- cessively disagreeable bours. To cut the collar off last year’s shirt waist, make a buttonhole in the collar band and wear the latest collar and tie is an easy matter, But when it comes to ripping out a starch- ed sleeve and taking cff a starched cuff, life assumes a serious aspect. It must be ccne, however, if one would be strictly en regle. The shirt waist sleeve is cut in one piece, and after taking it out has been ac- ccmplished it is easy to cut it off at the top and a little at the sides, taking care to slope it properly <nd_to make it no smaller at the cuff end. Then it must be tucked into the cuff with three tucks in- stead of being gathered. The difficult mat- ter of putting the cuff on comes next, and it is wiser to soak the starch out of this obstreperous piece of linen before attempt ing it. When all this is accomplished the waist may be worn with a proud conscious- ness on the part of the wearer that she is not behind the times. There is no erticle of dress which re- quires more attention than the shirt waist, if one does not wish to look like a dowdy. The ordinary dumpy garment, with untidy belt and vague tie, is enough to make the smart woman forever forswear this most useful garment. Properly made and worn, however, they are a delight and give a look of trimness and neatness to most women. This year shirt waists are made of thin- ner materials. Organdies, lawns and dim- ities vie in favor with each other. The de- tachable collar of white linen is worn in almost every case, and the favorite tie is of black satin, tied by the wearer, the edict against made ties for women was ts- sved some time ‘This black satin tie is a complicated affair, as it must go twice pensive. match the ribbon in the hat is often worn. ‘We are going back to the old days-of “matching things” in spite of the glaring combinations to be met with on the streets. . The hunting stock is much in fevor for bicycling, golf or traveling wear. As or- dinarily tied it gives the neck an unfinished in if