Evening Star Newspaper, May 29, 1897, Page 16

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MAY 29, 1897—24 PAGES. Emile Dom antares Te hatin ct 6 tty, Servia. and Wurterbersd A WARM WEATHER GOWN. GOWNS FOR SUMMER Some Suggestions on a Subject of Interest to Women. FROM A FAMOUS ITALIAN MODISTE Sleeves That Differ and Color From the Gown. in Material FASHIONS AND FABRICS <= (Copyright, 1897, by Wm. Du Bois.) Special Corr-spondence of The Evening Star. FLORENCE, May 15, 1897. ‘The spring exodus has begun. As days grow longer and the rising thermometer hints at summer heat, dwellers of large cities long to follow the natural inclina- tion of all mankind to seek health and rest and simple exercise in budding blos- soming pature after the winter of their discontent. Warm and materials for them are as various as they are beautiful. Bengaline, although classed among summer fabrics, and hav- ing a light effect in modish shades, is rather heavy, and practical only for those fortunates upon whom the dog days have no dissolving influence. It is a plain, round- corded weave of the poplin family, and may be used in connection with any ma- terial, as the feature is one of weave rather than composition. Another heavy material for summer wear is “drap d'ete,” an all-wool fabric, with a twilled face and broadcloth back. It is woven with a twill and finished as a broad- cloth, with the gloss showing on the back of the fabric. It requires sponging before use, as it is well adapted for bicycle cos- tumes or riding habits and plain tailor- made gowns. “Frise” is a pile fabric, in which the pile stands out from the body of the fabric in uncut loops. It is produced by the using of two warps, one of which is fed at a greater tension than the other. The tight one is used in building up the fabric, and the looser one running off the warp drum much more easily than the other, is placed on the face of the fabric in loops. This, of course, has quite a heavy effect, although the cloth is light, and is siderably for trimmings of gown: with some o the “boucle lighter. , and in connection er material. It is similar to for winter wear, but much A Lighter Material. Beige 1s a fine woolen stuff, composed of yarn, in which the colors are mixed. It is often produced using two differently colored yarns and twisting them together, or yarns spun from wool of different col- ors. This material is much lighter than the first named ones, and when trimmed with silk is very stylish. A pretty dress is made of beige of a reddish mauve color, with sleeves of black silk. The bodice of beige describes a flat plastron in one with the corselet belt, adorned with six jet but- tons. On either side the material is full, the gathers drifting toward the front un- der the plastron. The back is flat, with a fold down the center. Flaps of beige are buttoned back over the sleeves of black faille, cut in one piece and puffed at the top. ‘The plain skirt of beige has the flat front and gored side and back breadths, and is hemmed with stitching. % s delight the artistic eye o - turiere by their soft Grantee Gatto Chine foulards make up charmingly, as do chine challies. The word “chine” denotes a printed effect produced by the warped threads being printed in blocks and grouped in the loom in such a way as to produce a pattern. . Of Black Grenadine. Grenadines are great favorites. They are made up over plain or changeable taffeta and can be bought at prices to suit all purses. A model of black grenadine with a satin stripe encircled by a floral design is made up over changeable green and blue taffeta. The close-fitting skirt is given a tablier effect by two rich wide bands of jet running from a point in front diagonally along. the sides and forming an upward point at the back. The blouse bodice of grenadine is drawn loosely over a tight changeable taffeta lining and closcs in the shoulder and underarm seams. It also has two jetted bands like those on the skirt, running in opposite diagonal lines, thus forming a cross over the chest and back. The collar and the close-fitting sleeves, slightly puffed at the shoulder, are of black satin. A ruche of real lace at the hack of the collar ard a belt of wide black satin ribbon, closing at the ieft side with high standing loops, finish the costume. The large hat to match this gown is of green straw trimmed with dark blue corn flowers, green and biue changeable taffeta and a mass of black plumes. ‘Faifeta, which during several seas had a tight hold on fashion's devote: now passed out of favo: garnjtures and ur cotton wash goods lawns and mulls ns has has except for linings, derskirts. Transparent like organdies, French are generally made up weather gowns are in demand, | OVer a complete underdress of taffeta, col. ; ored or white a. the goods may require, and to suit the taste of the wearer. Black and white is always fashionable, striking and elegant, and Icoks equally well on old and young. Black lace over white silk has patches of color, yellow, red or green, to add to the color effect, in belt, coilar, choux or bow trimming. Dotted Swiss. Dotted mull or Swiss has again risen to higher uses than window curtaining, It looks particularly well on young girls and we place before the American public today a model made of white dotted mull over white taffeta. The gown suits the slender figure, as the skirt is triple, taking the form cf three large flounces, each flounce being edged with real Valenciennes lace and trim- med with insertion. The blouse bodice is made of Valenciennes net over a clos-fit- ting underwaist of white taffeta, and is so arranged as to make a very slight V-shaped decollete at the throat, while the silk underwaist is cut quite low. This proves very flattering to the neck and throat, as they are veiled by the lace only, and it is cool besides. The unlined close-fitting | sleeve may be made of lace or mull, and is trimmed with three full lace-edged fiounces of mull entirely covering the upper arm and simulating the form of the skirt. The lace bodice is confined at the walst by a folded beit of wide white taffeta ribbon. Straps of the same run from the front of the belt upward to the shoulders, where they form graceful butterfly bows, and ex- tend further along the back, following the line of the decollete, and finally end in the middle of the back by a bow and long streamers reaching almost to the nem of the skirt. This girlish and airy costume is suftable for both out and indoor wear. When worn for the promenade or for call- ing a large white leghorn hat trimmed with white ribbon and plumes and bunches of pink apple blossoms adds to the charm of the toilet. EMILIA BOSSI, Be a an Florence. Justice Tempered by Patronage. From the Nebraska State Jourral. A number of years ago Judge Reuther, an old German, was elected police judge of South Omaha. Now this same Judge had a salocn also, and being of a thrifty turn of mind he did not wish to give up so good a payirg business as a saloon in a booming town, so he decided to wear the white apron and the judicial ermine at the same time. It is needless to say that many amusing com tions arose in his court, and it afforded no end of fun for the in- habitants of the thriving burg, if not for the rest of the state. For instance, some morning the judge would be confronted w'th a motley of drunks. The judge, fresh from the bar, wouid call up one and say: “Vell, vere did you gid dot beer vat you trink?” If the prisoner would say at the “Bode- ga’ or some other well-known saloon, the judge would say in stentorian tones: “Ten tollars und costs—next.” So it would go down the line until one would say thet he got his beer. at the judge’s saloon, and then the judge’s hard look would melt to one of the sweetest smiles, and he would say: “Let dis man go; he is discharged.” The culprits soon found out that it was a gocd idea to get their beer at the Reuther salccn, and it became hard to find a drunk who did not tell the judge that he got his beer at the court’s saloon, but the judge thovght that his trade did not correspond with the tale told by the numerous drunks he had to deal with. -At last, after much joshing, the judge disposed of his saloon and went into a more dignified business. ee It matters little what it is that you want —whether a situation’ or a servant—a “want” ad. in The Star will reach the person who can fill your need. “PEARLS OF rom Lite. You only show yourself at a disadvantage the drawing room door ai ETIQUETTE. and embarrass your hostess if open. nd walk in unannounced. = HOUSEHOLD HINTS If people could be induced to iive within their expenses there would be much ters unhappiness in the world. This applies not only to poor pecple, but those in mod- erately good circumstances, as well. As a general thing, the very poor do live within their means, for credit is difficult te secure, and they are forced to count the pennies. It is the woman in moderate | circumstances who needs some experience lessons in how to take care of the pence when the pounds are hard to get. Many children are afflicted with mental dyspepsia, unknown to their parents. They go to school all day, and have “study” hours every night. They eat with a book in their hands, and sleep with them utider their heads that they may utilize the first daylignt moments in study. This is hot wise, it is not kind. The child has split- ting headaches, it has weak eyes, it grows round shculdered, it gets peevish and cross grained, nervous and sickly generally. In fact it has mental dyspepsia from an over- dcse of books and study. The common re- sult is a dullard when the child has grown up, through pushing it too hard, and biast- ing its mental development. If you do rot huve something worse, a weakling with no constitution to withstand anything will be the ultimate result. Celery, as usually brought to the table, is a disgusting object. It should be scrub- bed, literally, with a brush kept for that Purpose only, in clear, cold water, and, if unable to crisp it in an ice box, stand ina cool place in ice water. Wiited celery is an offense to a cultivated taste. Not a single wn or specked spot should appear on ‘nen brought to the table. Detail in a woman’s dress tells more than the whole ensemble. One of the com- monest mistakes of the home dressmaker is to put a light cambric belt or silk belt on her dress skirt. The woman who does that is bound to go around looking as though she was dropping to pieces, be- cause that light belt is sure to slip down and show beneath the outer one of leather or ribbon. Always cover the outside of the belt with a piece of the same goods as the skirt, then the slipping is unnoticeable. The very nicest belt for a dark dress skirt is the regular belting that costs about fifty cents a yard. Have the skirt “whipped” right on a silk belt that is exactly the color of the material. Then, if you have the belt tight enough, you can cover the fastening in the back with a bow of ribbon, and need no other belt. . It is simply shocking, the little attention that is paid to the hang of the present day dress skirts at the foot. It is com- mon to see an elegant tailor-made skirt at least three inches shorter in the back than in front, and the effect is ludicrous. It shows the lining of the skirt in the back as you look at it from the front, and is un- graceful in the extreme. Very largely this drooping of dress skirts in the back is the fault of the wearer, who does not know how to stand propertly, or to walk cor- rectly. Here is a bit of advice from an eminent physician which is worthy of emulation. “There are comparatively few diseases, outside of contagious ones,” he says, “dur- ing which repose and a proper supply and management of nourishment are not of vastly greater importance than medicines. Abstinence from all food during what is recognized as temporary physical exhaus- tion or great mental strain or excitement is urgently advised, unless, of course, the body has previously been seriously under- nourished, in which event easily digested liquid foods, which experience has shown to he well suited to the patient's physical personality, should be given hourly, or oftener, in very small quantities, until restoration of energy is assured. It is one of the commonest and most mischievous of blunders to provide a hearty meal for any one who is excessively weary, and a little reflection will show why this is so.” Something that a friend who makes it cails “fruit jumble’ is appetizing and pretty to look at. Pour over a box of gela- tine a pint of cold water and let it stand for thirty minutes. Then add a pint of boiling water. Stir in one pountl of gran- ulated sugar, the strained juice of three lemons and two oranges, and then strain all through a fine strainer. Moisten a mold and put in the bottom a layer of grapes, and almost cover them with a lit- tle of ‘the gelatine and let it cool. Then put in a layer of candied cherries, ‘sliced benanes or sliced oratges and pour on a littie more gelatine. A layer of chopped almonds adds to the flavor. Make the lay- ers of fruit thin, and you will be immense- ly pleased with the result. Eat with cream or not, as you like. It should stand in the ice box for at least two hours, before , serving. Watermelons will soon be here, and a recipe for watermelon sherbet is in order. Try this. Scoop out the entire center of a tine ripe melon, remove every seed and chop pretty fine in a bowl, adding a cup of granulated sugar. Pack all closely in the ice cream freezer and turn for a few mo- ments; then serve in glasses as you would sherbet. A woman hates worse than anything else the cleansing of the bread pan or bowl af- ter having made up a “batch” of bread. Unless absolutely necessary to put~ the bowl away at once, fill it with cold water and let it stand for an hour. By that time all the hard particles will have become softened and fallen to the bottom of the bowl. The practice of putting the bowl and molding beard away unwashed, in the flour bin, as so nany do, is most rep- -rehensible. The tiny particles will work off into the next lot of dough and ferment in the raising, and often spoils a whole bak- ing of bread, while the baker is wondering what possesses the stuff. Absolute clean- liness should always be observed in attend- ing to bread, cake or pastry cooking to ob- tain the best results. It is asserted that a coating of vaseline is the best thing discovered for keeping eggs fresh. Coat them well and put them in a jar, with layers of salt to separate, and fill the jar well to the top, then cover tightly. Turn the jar every few days to keep the yolks from settling to one side. ‘The eggs may be packed in a box. This is a simple way of treating them, available to every housewife, and she may well take advantage of it when eggs are so cheap. SNEEZES INTERRUPTED COURT. Everybody Was at It and There Was No One to Say Gesundheit. From the St. Louis Globe-Democrat. The case of John H. Vette against John C. Obert was on trial in Judge Haughton’s court yesterday. During the process of the suit the lawyers had a tilt over the admis- sicn of certain evidence, and the following Cialogue ensued: “Your honor, the assertion that was just made by the—ec-cachoo—on my—ec-cachoo —is absolutely—ec-cachoo!”" < “Your honor, I—ec-cachoo—sir, statement made by my ec-cachoo!” Judge Haughton admitted the testimony and the witness proceeded. “Well, it was just this—ec-cachoo—I said to Mr. ec-cachoo-cachoo—and he said to me—ec-cachoo-cachoo-cachoo!” At this point nearly every one in court was sneezing. Luwyers, clients, jurors and witnesses joined in a sneezing chorus in which sneezes of various quality and a wide range of tone and discord were min- gled. The pompous, ponderous sneeze of Constable Hand was a most effective basso that gave strength to the chorus, while the beaxtiful treble of Count Fredick von Gereke rose clear and sbrill above the minor notes. The jurors formed a perfect scale of notes, extending over an octave and a half and forming a melodious ac- companiment to the general burden of the grand, sweet song. Naturally during this outburst of Wag- nerian solemnity court was interrupted. Judge Haughton rapped for order, but the only reply was from a big German butcher, one of the jury, who, with his magnificent, tenor, sent his voice upward in a~series of trills, runs and cadenzas in what was prob- ably one of the most beautiful collection of sneezes ever heard. Then dropping, with a series of grace notes, to the lower reg- ister, he ended with a movement in rag time, in a five-flat finale that would have done credit to Sousa’s Band. At this moment Judge Haughton looked through the open door into the back room, where Tom MacAleavy was unconcernedly rolling and breaking, in front of an open window, the supply of tobacco which he in- tends to take on his fish’ fine to the AFTERNOON IN HYDE PARK, JUBILEE FASHIONS London Women Are Preparing for the’Great Celebration. GOWNS ARE LOUD AND COLORS VIVID Royal Blue is Popular, Though Lighter Shades Prevail. ON PARADE IN HYDE PARK (Copyright, 1897, by the Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Corr spondence of The Evening Star. LONDON, May 19, 1897. ONDON IS A- quiver for the dia- ond jubilee. The hotels are full, the streets are full and John Bull's heart is full of joy at such a streak of” luck in trade. We wear “rec- ord reign” hats, Vic- torla capes, jubilee shirt waists, queen's tartan gowns and diamond shoes, and, —. \ 7 clad in all these gar- ments of ‘loyaJty and royalty, we prepare to celebrate throughout “the empire of the queen.” > London ‘fasiifons have a curious signifi- cance this, spring. They..are bolder and more eccentric than Parisian styles. “One who is. fresh’ from the ‘avenues of the Champs Elysees'§ struck with a wonder- ing péreeption of the frivolity of Hyde Park, whereby the sense of the ludicrous is enormcusly tickled, Paris is all red and purple, but even with these flery tints lighting up every street horizon all is nice- ly adjusted, balanced. Hats are as small as they are scintillarit, and the giddiest thing about a woman is her petticpat, which once in a while at least is more or less veiled. Parts never quite plays the Umit. It always seems as if she had been there before and knew perfectly well just how far it was any fun to go. But Lon- don is different. The fin de siecle swing gets more and more giddy here and Jane Bull loses her head, and her taste, a deal quicker than Jeanette Crapaud. A taj starched Englishwoman, for no amount of English rain will ever get the stiffening out of English backbones, hits one’s funny bone hard when she walks out under a tilting hat whose feathers shoot as many ways as the three legs of the Isle of Man, and whose flowers bioom in all the colors that flowers never dreamed of, not to men- tion a few that are possible. It's a cure for chronic melancholia to see an “hon- orable miss” on a millinery tear. In Honor of Royalty. Naturally, the favorite color is “royal” blue, and, naturally, in England, this tint 1s applied oftenest to roses and carnations. But once used to such little eccentricities, London is much more tolerable at present than commonly, and much more bright and cheerful in its holiday dress of “record reign” modes. London dressmakers are making skirts narrow and altogether dis- tinct from their linings. Bodices are cut with a slightly baggy front, to show an under-bodice at the neck of white mous- seline de sole or some stuff that {s thin. All trimmings are calculated to make the shoulders of the width of an athlete's and the waist of the circumference of a doll. This combination is peculiarly Eng- lish and would kill off any other nation. But the English climate has developed a constitution that is water-proof and other- wiso tough, so that English girls seem able to take a prize fighter's exercise and still lace to the traditional “figure of a lady.” Skirts are heavily ruffled. A few over- skirts are seen. Gold is the most Iberally used trimming. Turquoise is the altnost universal tone. It is proper to wear with any and every sort of dress a white belt or @ green bolero studded with all manner of jewels. Blouses are made with a frill either standing up or turning down over the high neckband. Washing silk bodices have a full back and ‘front and open on the left side under a cascade of lace. For the fronts of dresses one woman in every six wears pink lisle trimmed with butter- colored lace. : i AVietoria Tarta: In Hyde, Park today I noticed a girl in a foulard gown. printed with the Victoria tartan, which has a white ground with red and blue:gtripings. The skirt of this dress was rounlf at the bottom and quite simple, except for twp, double rows of black velvet ribbon. wn about it, not horizontally, | | | | | | | were placed about one-third of the distance down from the waist and were quite nar- | row. The bodice was a.blouse with short basques appearing below the black velvet belt with its antique silver clasp. It opened upon an elongated front in white lisse, and was trimmed with double rows of velvet set around it at short intervals. At the neck was a thick frill of white lisse, below which was a deep collar of the dress ma- terial cut in battlements and forming epaulettes on the shoulders. The sleéves were almost skin tight, and like the collar were trimmed with velvet ribbon. The hat was of red straw of the shade of the red in the tartan. It was coarsely plaited and yet so soft that it had been bent and twisted as if it were only ribbon. It was turnea up at the left side with a mass of white roses, and was trimmed on the right with bows of plaited red straw, from which looked out loops of dark blue ribbon. The girl carried a tartan parasol, and wore red gloves and a bunch of red roses. Another very noticeable and quite pleas- irg dress w:s of pink foulard with a pat- tern cver it in mauve. This was worn by a very slim ard very blonde young Briton with a lovely fresh color, and was cut as a princess frock with a deep flounce at the bottom of the skirt headed with a figured mauve ribbon. The bodice opened on a white chiffon front and turned over with deep cape-like revers veiled with ecru lace and finished with a tiny ruffle of the same. A broad sash of mauve ribbon bound the waist and tied on the left side of the front with ends that reached nearly to the ground. Twists of pink velvet finished neck and wrisis. Her hat was a riotous pink straw running over with mauve orchids. Gowns of Khaki. A new material in Lordon is the very coarse linen called khaki and familiar tor years as the uniform of Tommy Atkins in India and other hot parts of the empire of the queen. Khaki is being made up for tenris, golf and cycling dresses in its orig- iral ard useful yellow and for smarter wear in checks, tartans and all manher of dyes. A khaki gown cn exhibition at one of the best houses is striped diagonally brown and red and is arranged for wear over a 3eparate skirt of brown taffetas. The round skirt is trimmed with three rows of rather wide green riboon, while the bodice is composed of red khaki in | Solid color with a square of brown silk at the neck laid in fine pleats and edged with a twist of green ribbon. The bodice is rather a lcose blouse and is trimmed with rarrow brown ribbons puckered into frills and put on in circles. This dress, which is meant for country wear and garden parties, is accompanied by a hat of brown straw trimmed with poppies. In Light Shades. Promenade, visiting and carriage dresses are in surprisingly light colors, considering the struggle it is in London to keep clean. A costume of which I made note yesterday at the fashionable driving hour was of a delicate gray silk, with heavy embroidery upon the skirt in gray, green and gold. The close-fitting bodice was hidden under a bolero of green velvet with large square collar, faced with white and embroidered like the skirt. Cuffs, pocket ornaments and wide draped belt were in green also. The hat was of gray straw with roses and foliage. ‘A pale green cashmere gown was per- haps the prettiest I have seen. The skirt was very narrow and untrimmed. The bodice was of green satin, veiled with open- work embroidery in gold, pink and steel. Down the left side of the bodice was a fall of kilted green chiffon with a narrow lace edging and fastened with gold enameled buttons. Over the shoulders was slung a short cape lined with pink and edged with heavy gold embroidery. Other costumes are of gray cloth lined with red silk, with vest of white chiffon; black canvas laid over shot silk and cut up at the side to show a fulling of white silk tled together with velvet. and dark blue cashmere worked with Russian colorings of red, yellow and gold. For very thin dresses for June wear the favorite material is string-colored canvas over green. ELLEN OSBORN. ——~——_ England and Russia. Benjamin 1. Wheeler in the Atlantic. Many believe that Constantinople has been systematically fortified against the English to the west, but not, at least by land, against Russia to the east. A Rus- sian army can enter Constantinople with- out great difficulty. When the question of forcing the Dardanelles with an English fleet was agitated last winter the English naval authorities estimated that of the nineteen ships lying at Saloniki six must be sacrificed to do it. The cards have been stacked for Russia. It looks today as if the ultimate occupation of Constantinople by Russia were a foregone conclusion. What has England to say? The matter concerns her. It seemed for a time that the discovery of the route by the Cape of Good Hope would provide an evasion of the eastern question, and free her from the necessity of worrying about the Aegean. But the opening of the Suez canal has changed things, and, as if by jealous inter- position of geographic fate, drawn the is- sue back to the old fighting ground in the eastern Mediterranean. If she is to hold India and Australia, England must control the Suez canal and its approaches. If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you will get an answer. but with,an gasy dip to the front. These ab Only rounded! not heaping ones, spoonfuls are required, of Ceveland'’s BAKING PowDER.. SNUFF BOX IN HAND Some Young Men of Fashion Now Take a Pinch. SAID 10 BE QUITE THE FAD Steadily the Insidious Habit is Spreading Around Town. SOCIETY WOMEN WHO SMOKE A young man, with a Van Dyke beard and a carefully cultivated bored look, held the curious attention of the ground floor portion of a theater audience between each of the acts the other evening. He sat alone, ennul, ia a lower box. He did not leave his seat once during the entire perform- ance. When the curtain descended on the first act he slowly arose to his feet and reached back with his right hand Zor the left coat-tail pocket of his evening coat. From this pocket he produced a large, sq.are, oxidized silver snuff box, artist- ically chesed and beautifully wrought. His actions were calmly deliberate. With lis left thumb he touched a small mother-of- pearl spring button on the side of the box and the lid flew open. Then, with the practiced manner of a Henry he slowly dipped the forefinger and thumb of his right hand into the box and carried the pinch to his right nostril; the joy pro- duced by the deep nasal inhalation that foliowed was pictured on his countenance. | D‘pping again with the same digits of the same hand he pleasured his left nostril in the same fashion, his face assuming the same expression of critical enjoyment. He snapped the lid of the box shut with a ficurish like that of a pianist striking a resounding chord, and replaced it in his left coat-tail pocket. Still standing he rcached back with his left haad to his right coat-tail pocket and produced there- from a large purple silk handkerchief. He raised the handkerchief to his face with a wave of the arm like the sweep of an or- chestra conductor’s baton signaling “atten- tion!” air of wearled triumph, like a Roman em- peror satiated with the populace’s acclaim, he replaced the handkerchief and resumed his seat. It was all over. The several hundred persons in the pit who watched the operation were on pins and needles for snecze or sneezes which they confidently expected would follow; they wanted him vo sneeze; they were unable to remove their eyes from him they were so anxious to see*him sneeze. But he did not sneeze; he did not give the slightest indication that he feit the remotest desire to sneeze. Nor did his eyes even become watery. Plainly he was a finished snuff-taker. Reviving an Old Fad. The Star man who saw this ha4 noticed during the past few morths that a great number of the members of Washington's Jeunesse doree had harked back to one of the milder vices of their ancestors, and took snuff with the eclat and the manifest relish of a Thurman. But he was not pre- pared for the revelation that was unfolded by an F strect tobacconist whom he ap- proached on the subject. “Snuff-taking?” said he. with a surprised inflexion. “Why, I though everybody knew that the taking of snuff is becoming the greatest fad of the hour among the large class of young men who have time to de- vote themselves to the cultivation of man- ner. That’s what it amounts to originally —an opportunity for the display of manner; for a graceful chap who is inclined to be an attitudinizer can work in as much stage business in the handling of a snuff box as can a coquettish woman with her ian. But snuff is almost, if not quite, as insidious as cigarettes, when the habit of taking it ts once formed, nor does it take very long to form it; so that about nine-tenths «f the men who, in pursuance of the fad, started into the snuff-taking business for the op- portunities it gave them of assuming the ranner of their ancestors—those that have them—have become so confirmed in the habit that they would find it a grievous hardship to knock it off. A snuff-taker of a few month's continuance in the habit be- comes so thoroughly nicotine-inoculated that his system just fairly yells for the powder short and frequeat ‘ntervais. Any man who has ever used the things knows what a hard job it {s to stop smok- ing cigarettes. Well, I've been told by several of the snuff-takers who have got- ten Well into the habit, and who before gettirg into it had accomplished the task of abandoning cigarettes, that they would find it a whole lot harder to give up the inhalation of tobacco powder through their nostrils than they had found the breaking off of the habit of inhaling cigare:te smoke through their lungs. The Habit Here. “I first noticed the beginning of this snuff- taking fad here in Washington about a year ago. I had heard several months pre- viously that the thing had broken out in London, and then in New York, but I did not take much stock in the reports. But when a procession of young fellows with nothing to do but to keep from thinking began to stroll in here and ask for all sorts of snuffs that I had never even heard of, it set me to thinking. I was unable to fill their orders, for I only had in a small quantity of the ordinary Scotch snuff that is once in a while called for by persons. The daily demands for dif- ferent kinds of snuffs continued unabated for some time ag ae I finally ome oes — snuff catalogues. I was aston! in that nearly two hundred different varieties are manuf: ranging in price 80 cents a pound to $20 a pound. When I to fill my snuff customers’ orders and I now do al- ge i i & s i ef I i 38 i i fy i ‘ its i B i 3 H § i i: & a8 G i gt FH 4 A apparently in the last throes of | Then, gazing about him with an | | One of them, however, a Mterary chap, had a more satisfactory answer. He said he believed the snuff-taking habit had been revived in England among the swells over there on account of the immense revival of interest lately exhibited in the men and the literature of the last century and the | early portion of the present century—the when snuff-taking was at its height. instance,” he said, ‘the world has | been inundated during the past two or three years with Napoleonic Mterature, in whi the Corsican’s personal characteristi have been dwelt upon with a good ¢ more insistence than his campaigns. ii Bonaparte was a confirmed snuffer, and I think the constant repetition of this fact | has created a great many snuff-takers Again, there has of late been an immense mount of stuff printed concerning Lord Byron, the great English poet, who made things warm all over Europe “in his hot youth, when George the Third was king.” Byron possessed, among many other ami- able weaknesses, the snuff-taking habit, and in the recent Byronic Mterature this fact -has been widely spread. Now, every young man has hiv Byronic pe during which he worships that noble sybarite and his works with the devotion of the old Greeks to their Zeus; and so Byron also is perhaps responsible for a good deal of the modern snuff-taking. “I got into the habit myself,” this Mter- ary chap went on, ‘out of curiosity. In poking around among some of the effects of one of my great-ereat-grandfathers, 1 came across a very old and very beautiful gold-wrought snuff box. The find set me to wondering what the fellows of the last cen- tury could have found in the snuff-taking habit to give them pleasure, and, as I had tried everything else, I resolved to iry snuff just for the purpose of finding out if th was anything in it. I had the box f with some snuff that was recommended to me by a Russian fellow who has used it all lis life—and there you are. I've been or dering it in five-pound lots and er since, couldn't well get on without it. In this ccuntry I think the revival of interest in the American revolutionary period has had a lot to do with th Women W moke. “And while we're on the subject of fads,” continued the purveyor of nicotine, “I want to tell you that the cigarette-smoking habit among women is no longer a mere fad, but a settled thing. Women are smoking cig- | aveties, and a whole lot of them, too. Ther don’t walk in here and carry a box of their favorite brand of cigarettes out into the street under their arm; of course thy don’t. Not a dozen women come in here in | the course of a week. Nevertheless, I sup- ply a considerable number of Washington ladies with their cigarettes. | “swith hardly any exceptions they are women of wealth, and matrors, both young and old, and they smoke their cigarettcs with the knowledge, and if mot the ap- proval, at least with the acquiescence, of their husbands. On probing the thing, you will generally find that these Washington ladies who enjoy their cigarettes in their | boudoirs—for scarcely any of them, I un- | derstand, smoke elsewhere than in their | own chambers—have spent, and still con- tinue to spend, a considerable portion of their time in the old country. I've been told confidentially by some of them that they look forward with eager anticipation to the time when American women may be permitted, without outraging convention- ality, to smoke openly with their guests, as they now do in England and some of the other countries of Europe, notably in Rus- sia.” snuff-consuming fad _—— An Interesting Conversation. From Answers. Sir A. Suilivan went to see Rubinstein at his hotel in London. The Russian com- poser asked him to step out on the bal- cony and smoke a cigarette. They sat down, twisted their cigarettes, and puffed the blue clouds into the air. After a long pause Sir A. Sullivan ob- served: “You are a great admirer of Beethoven, I presume?” “Yes,” said Rubinstein. “And Wagner?” “No,” was the reply. Not another word was spoken. They rocked themselves in their chairs and smoked away. After a very long time Sul- livan said: “] think it is time for me to be going.” “Don't say so,” said Rubinstein. “Stay bit longer. It is so nice to talk to you.” Sullivan stayed, and went on rocking himself into the small hours of the morn- ing, when he got up and said: “I must be off now. I think we have chatted long enough.” teh. “Half-past “Strange how quick time flies in pleasant company!” —____-+«-+____ If you want anything, try an ad. in The Star. If anybody has what you wish, you FOR : THIRST You get more thiret- quenching power, with aless amount of fluid, by drinking 8 (Sparkling Kolafra) than from any other