Evening Star Newspaper, October 31, 1896, Page 18

ll Especially for Various Articles of Feminine Costume. FOR DRESS TRIMMINGS AND JACKETS Some Recent Novelties for Day and Evening Wear. ABOUT LARGE HATS C OLLARETTES AND neckwear In general have received a great boom from the fact that they lend a dressy appearance to a gown which | would otherwise look very shabby. Novel- ties in fur are very | numerous. One of the cheapest and easiest to copy,which will therefore be. me the most popu- just large enough | . with a fall of lace hin. st any a like this out over frem pas one could | some old ons. a very fin d satin vari | couple of faint pink roses. signs the costumes for the imperial fam- ily of Austria, is provided with this leath- ern jacket, which, however, is so disguised and beautified that one hardly recognizes the material. The skirt, sleeves and wide belt are all made of apple green crepe de chine. Tere are two rows of thread lace afound the bottom of the skirt. The cream leather jacket is embroidered in white silk and gold. It is cut in a scroll pattern down the front edges, which open over a full front of cream chiffoa. At each side of the front the jacket is ‘slashed up as far as the top of the helt, and in the back it is cut out several inches, showing the green belt, with the upper part of the jack- et embroidered in fleur-de-lis. Three rows of pleated chiffon trim the tops of the sleeves, ard over these falls a thread lace collar. The firal touch which none but an artist would dare to add fs a coMar of cerise velvet. The sleeves are yery tight from shou'der to wrist, with a flounce of thread lace falling over the hand. Ermine fur, which had a rest last year, is coming in once more as trimming. As a border for sealskin capes it has no rival, but it is as dress trimming that !ts popu- larity is noteworthy. Tailor-made gowns will be made sufficient unto themselves without extra wraps hy the insertion of an ermine front to protect the chest. Use of Swansdown. Swansdown, than which nothing more sweet and girlish has ever been discover- ed, will trim opera capes for debutantes this winter. The capes are made of white brocade, with white or, perhaps, rose lin- ing. Brocade is the correct thing for opera capes in general if one can afford It. ‘A rose-leaf cape Is one of the novelties | which an uptown store exhibits under glass. The body of the cape is brocade, figured in pink roses, and it is trimmed all around with up-and-down rows of crinkled silk rose pe fastening at the neck with a It is lined with pink satin. The capes described are not so long as opera cloaks were last year, but they are not intended to protect the whole body, such eats usually go in closed car- which do not admit the cold bla: back of the neck the e high, flaring collar. | t celarettes is made | ter bird called greba, | bles the duck. Tne t and very soft sheen that is However, bird, and that seems un- w of the numerous varie- gned to an early death of the mi ry trade. rs very iy into the of various articles of the} y collarette of ypeared at the te leather that was laid over the black in three-inch strips with the bjack strips peeping up betwee: To make this collarette all the more str! ing, the maid who wore it had also pro- cured for herself a white kid bonnet. The kid had been cut in oval tabs and sprin- kled with gold spangles, and was then ckered up into what appeared to be bows which composed the entire hat. A white aigrette was the only other trim- mirg. Leather as Trimming. White leather trimmings are very fash- jonable for taflor-made dressesr, and the thrifty damsel has been known to cut off the tops of a pair of soiled evening gloves to use them on her street dres: This use of leather as trimming has been carried so far as to make whole jack- ets of it. which suggest the leathern jer- j kins of fabled huntsmen. A tea gown, or, more properly speaking, an afterncon reception gown, which was the creation of a Vienna artist who de- sits ‘ | at deal has been said about the thea. ter hat, a a great many cartoonists have used the e hats as subjects of ridicul To determine what manner cf people the are who wear these obstructions to the view in spite of protests, a canvass has | been made among those who know, and it has been found that the majerity of the big hats are worn by women who are only in the city for a short time; and, having no other place to display their newly acquired finery, they wear it to the theaters, im the fond belicf that they are dressed like city folks. Those women, therefore, who do not to be mistaken for “country cousins” should avoid the indiscretion of wearing | “picture hats” to the play, unless they are so fortunate as to occupy a box, which is | the only legitimate place in the theater for such headgear. The small evening bonnets which have been worn so long are not quite in fashion neat ot passive rane | this season. The correct thing is a small hat trimmed with jet or gilt and a bunch of aigrettes, or a pair of slim feathers. Gilt embroidery and spangles are much used on | these hats. One with a. four-inch crown embroidered in gilt had a feather-edged brim, a jet buckle and a couple of small feathers standing up on the left side. This style of theater headgear has an advantage in addition to that of being small, in that, being a hat and not a bonnet, it can be worn to matinees, as well as evening per- formances. The large velvet hat with high bell crown has been christened the Marie Antoinette. One of these which is decidedly artistic has a flounce of Renaissance lace fallin; on the brim close up to the crown on the | right side, and a cluster of feathers grace- fully poised on the left side. A bunch of yellow roses is perched on the right side of the brim on top, and another underneath the brim or the left side. These high-crowned hats, by the way, are ily trimmed and are very fetching. A pretty fancy in trimming is to put feath- ers underneath the brim on one eide nest- ing against the hatr. Indeed, home mitli- nery is being made more and more simple by the introduction of ready-made hats and trimming, which need only to be put to- gether with only a few stitches to make a very presentable hat, and that woman who has an eye to the number and rich- ness of her gowns, as well as her hats, will do well to devote a little time and atten- tion to the art of millinery. >_— HOUSEHOLD HINTS Housekeeping isn’t such a dreadful task if the work is done systematically and properly. No kind of work is altogether agreeable; it all has ‘‘spots” that we would | rather avoid, and so & is with the care of a heuse. If one cannot afford well-trained servants, none at all is best. A poor ser- vani is a torment and a nuisance, and very few women have patience to take a raw, untrained girl and make a good servant of her. It is much easier to “Keep house” if one has conveniences to work with. and that young couple is sensible who begins furnishing by buying a good stove for the Kitchen, and the necessary utensils for kitchen and dining room, leaving the parlor to the last. Yeu can live comfortably with- out chromos of fruit and flowers, and plaster angels and things, but you can’t live without the real fruit, and broilers and skillets. Brooms soaked in hot salt water for an hcur, when new, wear better and are not so much inclined to break. One careful “house mother” who likes to garnish her meat dishes with bits of green, ter and summer, and who wants it and her salad seasonings perfectly fresh, raises them herself in small boxes and cans in the house in winter, and has a small bed for them in the garden in summer. She has chervil and parsley in one small hox. She has tarragon plants in another, and makes her own tarragon vinegar, thinking nothing else so fine fot salads as the tiny green leaves. She has a can of chives, just a pinch is so much finer than onions, you know; a bit of thyme, sorrel and mint in cans finishes her kitchen garden. She is never at a loss for seasoning for meats and soups and salads, and a :neal at her house is something to look forward to, though she is most economical. A mother should not live for her children, but with them. She should keep abreast of the times in reading and enter into the bet- ter brain life of her little ones, leading them up step by step, instead of lazging behind them and considered by them to be more of a servant than companion.. Most men who have achieved greatness in the eyes of the world give to their mothers the credit for their start and stimulus. Most frult stains can be removed with boiling water. Hold the spot tightly over @ bowl or basin and pour the boiling hot water directly on the stain and it will usually disappear. Soap, lye and other cleansing fluids will generally “set” the stains Irreparably, so you must look after the stains before your linen goes to the laundry. Most ink stains can be removed with lemon juice. Apply directly to the stain be- fore putting water on it. Saturate with the lemon juice and leave it to dry. Rinse in clear cold water, and apply the lemon juice again, and repeat the operation about. three times. This will leave a yellow spot, which the direct application of liquid am- monia and then hot water and soap wiil quite remove. One of the very latest cures for insomnia is three teaspoonsful of sugar in a cup of boiling water. Some people can’t take hot. water “straight,” but can take it with a tablespoonful of milk, or the sugar. This is said to be an excellent remedy for. a felon before the pus has formed: Fill a glass with equal parts of salt and crushed ice. Into this thrust the finger with the felon on it and keep it there till nearly frczen. Withdraw, and when sensation re- turns to it, do the same thing again, four or five times in succession. It is almost sure to destroy the felon in its incipiency. For a cold in the head, snuffing dry borax as one would snuff will often give instant relief. A tablespoonful of borax in a pint of hot water, snuffed when at blood heat, is also good. For odors on the hands, dash a little sugar on the hot stove lid and hold the hands over the smoke. THE MUSIC OF NIAGARA. Harmonies and Rhythm Cataract. From the Trinity Record. Organist Eugene Thayer has published an analysis of the music of Niagara Falls. He says: “It had ever been my belief that Niagara had not been heard as it should be, and in this belief I turned my steps hitherward. What did I hear? The roar of Niagara? I heard nothing but a perfectly-constructed musical tone clear, definite and unap- proachable in its majestic perfection, a complete series of tones, all uniting in one grand and noble unison as in the organ.” Mr. Thayer then described at some length the compound nature of a given tone, and illustrates the overtones or partials of the lowest C of the 32-foot pipe of the organ. ‘Then he continues: “I had long had a suspicion that I should hear all this at Niagara when her wonder- ful voice should first greet my ears. It was just as I had supposed. How should 1 prove all this? My first step was to visit the beautiful Iris Island, otherwise known as Goat Island. My next step was to stand on Luna Island above the central fall and on the west side of the American fall ploper. I went on the extreme eastern side of the island in order to get the full force of the larger fall, and sat among the rap- ids. Next I went to the Three Sisters Island. “With more or less variation of pitch at these and many other points I heard every- where the notes of the chord G, only four octaves lower. “I arrived at my conclusion both theoret- ically and practically. Let me first call at- tention to the third and fourth notes—D and G. “The ground note, G, was so deep, so grand, so mighty, that I never could real- ize it or take it into my thought or hear- ing; but these two tones, only four octaves lower, were everywhere with a power which made itself felt as well as heard. ‘But, it will be replied, these two notes Were too low to be determined by the sense of hearing. How did I determine their pitch? “I first caught the f the Mighty harmonic notes abov: them that were definite in pitch, TAato counting the number of vibrations of these lewer two notes, easily determined their distance below. “And here comes a cu proves that Niagara ives a tone a rear. The seventh note, the Ey onine tenth, was of a power and clearness en- tirely out of proportion to the harmonics ag usually heard in the organ. “Were the tone of Niagara a mere noise this seventh note would be either weak or cenfused or absent altogether, “What is Niagara’s rhythm? Its beat is just once per second.” ae A eee WAS BRYAN’S PROTOTYPE. rious feature which Aristophanes’ Ideal Demagogue and the Nebraska Candidate Compared. From the Chicago Chronicle, Aristophanes, the greatest of the Greek comic poets, must have had William J. Bryan in his “mind’s eye” when he com- posed “The Knights,” which chiefly pays the comedian’s compliments to Creon, his ideal demagogue. His prophetic vision gives the world the following perfectly frank and transparent view of the modern blatherskite, the most flippant der of all the ages, not excepting even his ine famous prototype, Creon himself, who heretofore stood without a rival nae. Close around him and confound him, the confounder Bete! nhaes voniaeli bie casa ae him, rummage, Overbear lin, and outhawl im; bear. him down wy Uke burst ‘et Wunder: “Robber! harps! sink of under? aT on ge and cheat!"* Rogue and Oftencr than I'cun repeat it, has the rogue and villain cheated, Close round him, left and right; spit upon him, spura am] spit at bim spurn and smite; eB stan ——_+2+—____ Love Never Dies. From the Indianapolis Journal. “Does love ever outlive the honeymoon?” asked the girl with the dreamy eyes, “Outlast the honeymoon?’ screamed the lady from the lake. “Good gracious, child; I have known it to survive the divorce.” . ECONOMY IN HATS Headwear That Seems Designed to Be Copied at ‘Home. THINGS NEW AND NOTABLE IN FUR Cape, Coat and.Long Cloak When the Wind Blows Chill. FASHION’S FALL —— Correspondencs: of the Evening Star. NEW YORK, October 28, 1896. F CONTRADIC- tory propgsitions both are often true. A scarcity of money makes fashions ec- centric and extrava- gant; it also makes fashions simple and economical. Either statement can be proved by itself out of the shop windows. Neither statement taken separately* ex- presses the situation. You must admit both for any comprehen- sive view of things. If there is a tendency to spend little that tendency ‘must be corrected by such a boisterous shake-up as shall make today’s clothes impossible tomorrow morning. In normal times clothes age by degrees; in hard times they become grotesquely anti- quated in a night, else they would be worn forever. For this reason chiefly have sleeves had their bubbles pricked, have skirts acquired overskirts, have bodices crept up toward the armpits, have princess dresses begun to writhe and turn their long tightness, have coats acquired Watteau folds in the back, haye capes grown out in kerchief-like ends to curls about the waist, have hats shot up into mountain-peaks in the crown, have ostrich trimmings been “cut,” instead of sporting their old feathery plumes. A woman in yesterday's clothes would feel today like Rip Van Winkle just brush- ing the sleep out of his eyes. Hard times JRiAKS have made the ‘modistes shake ‘the: kalei- doscope fast and furiousty. Score one for the clever folks who know that to dress correctly is a necessity, whereas to eat butter on one’s bread is a luxury. But the shield has two sides. In hard times the home dressmaker and milliner sprout like weeks after a raffl: They can't be killed; the sellers of cloth and ribbon by the yard: wouldn't allow it, and so there must be fashions adapted to the every-wo- man-her-own=gown-maker idea. And so, side by side with this fall's extravagance, is the fali’s simplicity; and, springing from the same root, if you ple for people must be made to buy. To this end clothes must be different; to this end also not all clothes, but some clothes, must cost little, being makable at home. Fashion takes muéh, but'd Ifttle’ she concedes. Problems of the Amateur. No amateur can fit the princess gown. There {s a citadel not to be stormed. A good many deft women can cut overskirts, and the double draperies, which take more eloth than the full, straight, hard-to-be- adjusted-dressmaker folds we have ‘been having. Tight sleeves are easier for unpro- fessional scissors than balloons, but the new short bodices are about as impossible as the old, long-waisted, tapering ones. shion gives what she has to, feather’s weight more. It is in millinery that the rare com- plaisance of the social tyrant is most to be appreciated. Home millinery, if a wo- man has any knack for it, pays better than most domestic industries, because the results are big in proportion to the labor. Some of the new hats seem especially de- signed to be copied at home. There are models, and bright, dainty ones, every- not a where, whose clilef dcoration, standing on its heag abgiit the crown. The ones. re The ribbons are froad, and are shot blue and green, or brown and red, or brown and yellow, or some degp, rich tone with a whitish mist upon the surface—this is one of the new th: ingribbon. They are gathered at one » the other stands up full in a flare. They have a little velvet fold for a base to,grow tn, or perhaps the brim is covered wih vell folds, as later on will be described.. On the left side the rib- bon ruffle is finished with a rosette and the before-mentioned binds or plumes. A rope loosely twisted out of velvet. , About Veil Folds. _. The veil folds with which many milliners are encircling hat brims are described by their name. -Black or white lace, with per- haps a length 6f ribbon, ig jaid easily about the hat as if it were the full edge of @ veil, and sometimes droops a bit from the brim to complete the illusion, Such folds are readily arranged by the amateur, and are among the most useful of the case- ments which have come of bad times. But there.are. better days coming, and fashion leans more to luxury than economy.. Some..of.the new dress bodices are cantante enough to have been thought a ‘an opium dream. The root idea, Lelio novel is that of vest or = with a short jacket or cape, or rangement fastened only at the stoulase seams and loose under the arms. .A broad folded sash comes up to meet the which buttons oftener than rot on t! i THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, Og OBER 31, 1896-TWENTY-EIGHT PAGES. drawn-out type which has been the teal of the last few seasons. A goed example of this tendency appears in the traveling dress of a November bride. The material is a heavy brown boucie cloth, with a skirt about four and a half yards round. The feature of the bodice is the square-cornered jacket coming just to the bust. This starts on the right shoulder, and is carried over to the left, where it turns back in a pvinted rever to show a gold brocade lining. The jacket is edged with a black silk cord, below which one catches, now and then, a glimpse of gold. The neck finish is a black choker collar with a flat collar of antique lace through which shines gold. Loose folds of black silk make a broad sash, over which the jacket edge falls. Latest in Princess Gowns. A gray cloth dress just finished for the horse show illustrates the latest in the princess gown. The bodice is corded round and round from the throat to the waist and below the waist to the hips. At the hips the skirt is gathered on, nearly all its fullness being drawn behind. The close sleeves of this costume have double capes over the shoulders and are corded to the wrists, where they open in a flare. A walking dress in brick-red face’ cloth recognizes theclaims of the overskirt with- out fully honoring them. Black braid is thrown about the skirt in a bold Greek fret. just about where the overskirt of bygone days used to end. A black and white vest and a little brick-red toque finish a warm and bright-looking costume. Another edition of the princess gown ap- peared at an afternoon club meeting. It was of powder-blue cloth, with a square bib bodice coming up over a puffed chemis- ette of cream mousseline, iridescent passe- menterie, in blue, and gold-edged bib, sleeves and skirt hem. Blue satin bows were sect each side of the waist to relieve the hip line. It’s odd how shy we fight of the princess outline au naturel. For Evening Wear. Evening dresses are not numerous yet. I have seen one in a rich cream-colored bro- cade, over which were strewn roses caught ledsély together with knots and ends of ribbon. The ribbon effect was startling In its boldness, raised as it was in heavy black velvet woven against the ground of the material. The skirt of this gown was Ught-fitting in front and over the hips. Three godets appeared behind. The .:uirass- shaped bodice was cut low and sleeveless, with bunches of pink roses on the shoul- ders: .-In,furs I have seen several things that are new. The little sable capes with edges of ermine that have one long end to cross the bust and tuck in at the side of the waist, and as demurely pretty as a Puritan kerchlef. Some of the new coats in white fur embroidered with steel and edged with lace are decidedly interesting as. experi- ments, whether or not this treatment of fur finds favor permanently. There is a good deal of soft gray mouffion that looks smartest combined with black velvet, in a scalloped cape, for example. Ermine and sealskin are used together constantly, a notable example square of sealskin, which is turned into a cape by the simple expedient of cutting a it from the middle to one corner. That gives a cape pointed front and back and on the shoulders. The flaring collar is lined with ermine and ermine strips are carried down the front. If there is any- thing more novel in wraps than the models cited, it is to be found in a carriage cloak of ribbed pink silk with cape-like sleeves, edged with wide cream lace. A deep flounce of the same lace is arranged about the shoulders, and is broyght down on the left side to fasten under 4 satin bow with long ends. The beauty of this cloak is thought to rest in its side fastening. The neck fin- ish is a frayed-out ruche of the material, = ELLEN QSBORN. a EE YANKEE DOODLE. Merits of the National Tane That Still Survive. From the Philadelphia Record. The superior court of Boston has handed down a learned opinion in which “Yankee Doodle” is declared to be not a sacred tune. From the musical standpoint the dc- cision of the court cannot be impeached; for scarcely another nation the world over bas such a trashy song among its national airs, Rut despite its cheap musical effect, its slangy words, and even its British origin, “Yankee Doodle” will always be to every patriotic American a truly sacred tune—sacred with the memories of the rag- ged Continentals who marched and fought and bled and died to its lively strains from fife and drum. Dr. Frederic Louis Ritter, who himself gets out of patience with ‘the music of “Yankee Doodle” in his valuable work on “Music. in America,” relates, nevertheless, an amusing little anecdote in which the redoubtable Macaroni, with a feather in his hat, makes a characteristic figure. In the year 1838 the St. Cecilia Society sougnt to establish a public appreciation of class- ical music in New York. When a small band of seven or eight musicians one nigat attempted to play in the theater a part of a Haydn symphony the “gods” in the gal- lery cried out: “Stop that noise: give us ‘Bonypart Crossing the Rhine,’ ‘Washiag- ton’s March’ or ‘Yankee Doodle. At the close of the revolutionary war the love for military airs was quite inten: Not only was “Yankee Doodle” favorite, but the Franklin-inspire ira,” “White Cockade,” “Fren. “Hessian Camp ‘Duke of York's March,” “Baron Steuben’s March” and many other marches almost proved byt heir over- whelming numbers that, as Dr. Ritter ex- plans, “{ighting was still in the air.” Bill Billings, the Yankee composer, who livent- e. Ss bar aed the well-known psalm tune “Chester,” feather or a bird of twa, is a ribbon ruffie | had written many inspiring patriotic hymns. As has been said: “One secret, no doubt, of hots so trimmed usually broad felt | the vast popularity Billings’ works ob- tained was the patriotic ardor they breathed: and his tune ‘Chester’ was fre- quently heard from every fife in the New England ranks. The spirit of revolution was also manifest in his ‘Lamentations Over Boston,’ his ‘Retrospect,’ his ‘Inde- pendence,’ his ‘Columbia’ and’ many other pleces.”” But “Yankee Doodle” has yet survived the best efforts of all the old-time “Yankee psalm tune smiters" and “cornstalk fid- dlers,” as the British soldiers sneeringly styled them. As a melody it has little be- plaited. ruche mayoreplace the ruffie, or @| Yond simplicity in its favor; but there is a quaint, direct and incisive character about it which redeems it from vulgarity. In its own rollicking words: It suits fcr feasts, it suits for fun, And just as well for fighting. ‘The tune of “Yankee Doodle” is certainly of English origin, and is not older than the middle of the last century. Tradition as- cribed the words to one Dr. Schuckburg, a surgeon in General Amherst’s command during the French and Indian war. The British regulars made a butt of humor of the colonial contingent. According to one account, “Dr. Schuckburg recommended the tune to the colonial officers as ‘one of the most cclebrated airs of martial music.’ The icke took, to the no small amusement of the British corps. Brother Jonathan exclaimed ‘that it was Rpoee Se eh days nothing was heard provi camp but. the air of ‘Yankee Doodie.' ————_+o+____ Made a Change, From the Detroit Free Press, “That Mr. Flighty appears to have come being aj CRIME IN PARIS Thugs and Bullies Who Make the Streets Dangerous at Night, THE AIM 10 GET MONEY WITHOUT WORK Development of the Souteneur Into the Highwayman. ss PHASES OF a ee -LIFE Correspondence of The Evening Star. PARIS, October 20, 1898. T IS NEXT TO IM- Possible to make the tourist believe that the streets of Paris are dangerous at night. The broad thoroughfares are so well lighted, the population seems so mild and gay, there are so many cabs abroad, and we of Anglo-Saxon blood have such disdain for all the Latin races that the suggestion is laughed down indulgently. “These little people, cannot hurt themselves,” says happy Young Arrerica out on his muscle, “much less us.” Yet a glance at the local news in any morning paper will reveal strange things. Every morning paper in the gay French capital will have a half dozen_ exciting faits divers, which people read and soon forget. And robbery with violence goes on nightly in the Paris streets to an ex- tent that would surprise the dwellers in @ much more dangerous-looking capital. Doctor Lombroso, the criminal student, has expended a great deal of Latin in tell- ing how the professional thug and’ bully of Paris comes to exist. According to him, it is a matter of blood. The wretch was born so, coming into the world as a criminaloid, just as some men are born idiots. Plainer people, however, including the Paris police themselves, are skeptical of such an explanation. To them the evo- lution of the Paris bully is a simpter mat- ter. He is not born, put made. The cir- cumstances of Paris life have made him. How He Becomes Criminal. A thriftless and drunken workingman will have habits that are constantly throw: ing him out of work. He looks around for a means of support more congenial to his temper. In the present state of French morality his first step is to drive his wife on the street. ‘Then he sends his children out to beg or steal. Mean- while he listens to revolutionary and an- archistic speeches in the wine shops where he drinks in the daytime end at the club meetings of his feliows at night. These fill his heart with animosity against the rich, familiarize his soul with violence and Present to his conscience an excuse for crime. Only one thing is now needed to complete his own and his family’s educa- tion. This soon comes. One or other of the children is almost sure to do something which is punished by a term at the house cf correction. Or it is the father who is sent to prison. Now direct and scientific lessons are added to his own and his children’s amateur ex- perience, and henceforward he and his family and his children’s children will be- long to criminal Paris and will wage war on the ordinary members of society. After crime has once got in a family in this natural and easy way the apprenticeship of the thug and bully is mainiy the work of women. 'duention of a Souteneur. A young boy, for instance, grows up in narrow lodgings on the outer boulevards, or in some other crowded quarier. Life is promiscuous there, and no ideas cf morality of any kind cloud his spirit. He grows up clear-sighted on one point—he must stick to his own and’ fear no conse- quence, except from the police er some one stronger than himself. Quarrels, ob- scenity and blows are of daily occurren j around him. fe knows the disorder | life of his mother and the drunken vio- | lence of his father. He s | sisters leaving their home, such as it is, and returning from time to time, well dressed, and treating the family royally with money gained cut in the world of the rich—gained from the enemy. He thus knows from the start that money can be had without work. Soon he sets to trying for himself. s his grown-up Wo- il give him money for services easi- ly rendered, and these services are of a nature to train him thoroughly for the bat- tle against the police ard “the rich.” He begins by being an advance scout on his own side. Beginning the Trade. “I was thirteen years cld when I began the trade of souteneur,” a young prisoner said to a man who has studied all the Phases of Paris crime, not from books, but among the criminals themselves. “When I came back from school one evening I found everything upset at home. My big sister had come to see my mother with one of her girl friends, who took me to one side and asked, ‘Do you know if the quarter is safe? We are coming around this evening.’ “I answered that I didn’t know what she was talking about. She explained to me that I would only have to give warning when the policemen were in sight. 1 did what she wished, and that night she gave me twenty cents. I didn’t go to school the next day and played with my mates until night, when I began again, like the night before, to give warning, running up the moment I saw a policeman. The next thing for me to do was to learn by sight all the officers, and then I got money from every one of the wamen. I had playmates who did the same thing as myself. “Once in the daytime I stole a leather belt from the bazar of the Hotel de Ville and was arrested. I don’t wish to go back home, because my father beats me when I don’t turn over to him half of what my sister gives me.” Duties and Leisure. “This if the beginning of the trade of souteneur, or woman's bully, which has ccme to prececupy the minds of every thoughtful statesman in Europe. In Ber- lin the severest laws exist against the men who live on the money of depraved women; Leicester Square in London knows them well; but it is Paris where the trade most fiourishes, and here it is the regular ap- prenticeship to every other form of vice and crime. When young, the souteneur watches out for the police. When he ar- rives at man’s estate, he follows the poor girls along the street and proiects them in case of danger, or he uses them as a de- coy. 1f he loses a mate, by death or acci- dent, he must find another. In the mean- time he has many idle moments, waiting by néght for his companion, drinking by day with others like himself, cr desperately looking out for money while his mate is in prison. This leads to all manner of thiev- ing and cheating, and sooner or later to violence itself. During the past twelve years the courts have condemned more than two hundred of these souteneurs to death or to hard labor for life for the single crime of murder. A number of these assassins were under eighteen years of age; two were but fifteen, and a companion three years older had killed an old woman and afterward a po- iceman. They had to be kept in irons for the whole voyage vut to the convict scttle- ment of New Caledcnia, Might Attacks. After the police have made thelr periodi- cal raids on these women of the outer boulevards, it has always been noticed that there is a perceptible increase of night at- tacks on belated wayfarers. The soute- neurs, being deprived of their breadwin- ners, have no resource left but robbery. Work is always out of the question. Their commonest prey ts the workingman who has been spending his wages in drinking resorts. But any tipsy individual, the rich- er the better, will serve their turn. #Thcy have plenty of courage when they imagine they are stronger than theh’ victim, but they dread the sword cane and the revoiver > Absolutely Pure. Acream of tartar baking powder. Highest of all in leavening strength.—Latest Uniled Stetes Government Food Report. Rorax Baxixe Powper Co., New York. which gentlemen are forced to carry in Paris when they stay up late. The Trade of Bully. The Paris bully’s favorite weapon ts the knife, which he invariably carries. He is also strong at the French boxe, which includes a very murderous kind of kick- ing. The women who support him look to him for their protection alike from tipsy losfers and the police. When the money is rot forthcoming from his p in crime he demands it, or even forces .t from her At 2 o'clock in the morning certain streets of Mcntmartre and along the outer boulevards afe often vocal with the shrill cries of women and their soute- neurs et.gaged in their interminable qu: rels. And the souteneur's one final argu- ment is the knife he carries, Sometimes he has to be the principal actor -hims«it, when his companion fails to bring him money. Then he uses her as a decoy for some well-to-do simpleton that wanders alone through the Paris streets by night. She manages to lure the victim into some side street. Then the souteneur appears, and, as the French say, makes the sim- pletoa “sing.” When everything else fails force will be used to extort money, and here again the knife is the last argument. Doing His Work Alone. When his companion is in prison, as often happens, the souteneur can no longer drink and play cards in the wine shop while waiting for his money. He has to take up the trade of robbery along with others like himself; and, as he grows older, this becomes more and more the occupation of his life. He long since ac- quired a taste for dangerousiadventures, with orgies ef drunken vice. Now the woman is a mere decoy for him, and no longer the principal actress in his exploits. But he keeps to the belief, which every Frenchman seems to have, that it is the woman's duty to support him. A few years ago a souteneur, sixty years of age, mur- dered his companion. He was astonished that his defense was not received. “I am too old to work. She was my support for more than forty years. I found out she was workirg for me against her will, ani so I killed her.” A Sad Case in Point. Only lest week a man thirty years of age and well dressed was beating brutally @ young and pretty woman near the church of Notre Dame de Lorette. It was in the evening, when many persons were passing by. Some of them interfered and disarmed the man, who complained loudly aid impudently that they were meddling in his household affairs. “This woman is mine,” he cried. “She belongs to me and I have the right to punish her with my cane as much as L wish.” The unhappy creature simply wept, while drying with her handkerchief the’ blood which flowed from two deep wounds in her face. The policemen brought the cou- ple to the commissary. He at once reco; nized in the brutal fellow a man named Sugere Callot, a souteneur by trade. He was iiving in the rue d’Athenes with this pretty girl of twenty years old, Jeanne Bouvier. He obliged her to bring him every day -from twenty to twenty-five | fran When she had not money enough for this, he beat ber cruelly. She was so terrified by his threats that’ she did not dare to complain and still less to leave him. How the Girly Become Free. Sometimes, however, the girls tire of these parasites and give them up to the police. In such cases it is their ambitic to have their fcrmer lovers given as heavy sentences as possible, in order to secure themselves as long as possible from v gearce or the man’s release. The habit is to lay some plan of crime, inform the police and have the unsuspecting bully caught whiie in full preparation for the act. The fury of these criminals when their companions try to escape from their clutches is naturally without bounds. The whole apprenticeship of their trade hos left them with but one idea of a woman’s duty. When the woman fails they apply their own law to her case. It is more ditti- cult to ascertain what ,the women think of the metter. The mere protection at- forded them explains much in certain quar- ters of the city and among the very low est classes. Here the wcmen really necd protection from the gangs of loafers who infest the outskirts of the great city and the manufacturing suburbs. In the better sections, however, the souteneur’s work is rather to give moral support and com- fort. A young girl who had taken part in a murder, in which she unwillirgly served as a decoy, expressed her happiness at being arrested. “I_am glad to be delivered frem that man. He would have Killed me some day.” She was asked why she had not quitted him before; in case of need she could have denounced him to the po- lice. Her answer shows the consolations of which the female heart is capable, and it throws a bright light on the mysteries of Paris crime. “During the daytime I was so lonely that 1 was glad to have him near me. He was company for me. What should I have done with. ut him? And then, I despised him in my heart and it gave me pleasure to think that he was still more ignoble than myself.” STERLING HEILIG. a Difference in Degree. From the New York Times. Tommy—“Uncle John, what's the differ. ence between a honeycomb and a ho: moon Uncle John (a crabbed old bachelor)— “Considerable. Honeycombs that I've seen are made up of little cells; but some honeys moons I've heard of were big sells.” a eee Mushroom Costume. From Fliiegende Blatter. In remembrance of the summer of 1808