Evening Star Newspaper, October 10, 1896, Page 16

STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 10, 18956—TWENTY-FOUR PAGES, POINTED JACKETS, WRINKLED SLEEVES AND FLUTED CREPE. FOR CYCLE RIDERS Some Costumes Which Are to Be| Much in Vogue. BOLERO JACKETS & ae High Crowned Hats and Cunning | Little Toques. CAPES OF ——s Sp. spon of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, October 7, HE MOST 1896. in all my at the indecision of th fair the bloo: ih truth concer rs. when I si when worn through. precedent t perish without a strug: Here is It is the growing weight of B do. French nutshel the permanence of reform of the century. me that, except very rich, the some time at least continue to wear bifur- cated garb for the exceilent most of them purchased men’ which skirts would be impossib! RE THE THING BOX CLOTH} LORI- ous cycling weather | > year calls | tion anew to} ag | convenient} ve told but the id they were never seen in Lenox or Newport, strangers passing Yet there for them, and their | sie s do not wear them: the | the situation In a = in the realm of fashions that the most correspondent now on the French wheelwomen will for reason that wheels, on | And the | great majority of French women are eco- through the hazy air upon it, glows and flaskes in such a triumph of color as al- most to redeem its formless ugliness. The Jncket Idea. There is almost no limit to the use of the jacket idea in autumn gown design- The jacket is seldom a real one, dis- ted from its gown, but merely a pair } of wings stitched into the side seams and rounded or pointed to jacket shape in front. As pretty a model y isa gem in the cigar-brown tint which has been vocued by the latest royal trousseau in 3 The skirt is simply cut S muslin, confined by a wide biack satin belt and collar. The bolero is sili ed with ecffee colored lace and, ins 4 of being rounded off at the corners, it is brought down to two points in front. Another pointed bolero is shown in a gown of the very laiest Paris cut. It also : ch crimson Ckina crepe, gathered ik at front and sides. The skirt is cut with an apron, trimmed with biack insertion confined by ruchings of k mousseline de soie, running from ti t down to a panel gore on the left and ntinued around the apron as a border. The bodice is gathered black mousseline | under a holero of the crepe, cut to a point and trimmed like the skirt. The belt is a wide satin ribbon, and the cuffs are cylin- de:s of the Chantilly with mousseline edges. Vevhaps the prettiest fabrics of the au- mn are those reddish brown mixtures h present a warm appearance tem- pered with threads of black. and trimmed . If the complexion it, that is the chic combination ay. In its it consists of a tight, wrin- ipe up nearly to the shoulder, where ulous little puff conceals or accentu- t. As it is, it is uglier than the leg- ton sleev of two years age, and inti- inferior to the plain, old-fashioned t swept ‘round the shoulder, cling.ng close all the way. Much use is made of fluted crepe. You see it upon the epaulets of gowns, trimmed with edges of lace. The backs of bodices are made of lines of it, in which case it is generally confined by a broad satin belt. The New Hats. Hats are higher crowned than ever. Some of the new crowns are also smaller in cir- cumference, suggesting the contour of a dice box. There are cunning little toques which have for all decoration pert ribbon bows, itk and satin of gay tint, tortured up inte win cathedral spires, where the bias-cut ends of the ribbon come to lofty points. ‘The wearer of one of these charming heac by monica’ coverings I noted on 23d street today was The divided skirt, built without the dis- rales clad in ee cent blouse waist ron i ft = in silver-gray silk, whereo. Ww: placed = sesh pe a = one ae fiss e ee howy ornamentation of blac! vet rib owing vor. $ s! pon. This was criss-cross : : view of the boulev the Coney Island 5 eee eace at waist and the yles Merrick road to see in plenty. There's a blue—they call them who make about as a3 any one. They ty ed = r blouses and skirts are biue, buttoned leggins are thin biue are blue. Even the tan- le has a blue frame to E is an unmistakable man’s tandem; but when the blue girls up and away, they are as seemly and modest :n appearance as they are chic. When They Are Conservative. Another little witch has a dark blue suit throughout, of blouse and knickers, a red sash with tassels and a red necktie; an- other, a dull red serge, with divided skirt and a short, full-basqued coat, turned back w black. Indeed, the great majority are in skirts. The bloomerites, too, are apt to be quite young and slender girls. Older and plumper riders seem more conservative. An outfit sometimes seen is a tan ridden by a young man and woman, broth- er and sister, apparently, dressed in gray suits, with round caps, and looking almost exactly alike in their close-cut knickers, but for the girl’s coiled blonde hair and her puffy sleeves. The reds and browns and tans are cor- rect shades for fall cycling suits. It will be usual this winter to trim them with narrow bands of fur, say golden otter upon tan cloth or black fur upon gray. There is a kind of fall cape or jacket that is ugly enough to be fashfonable. It is made of shot silk—gray or blue with green or rose tint—falling from under the arms to three inches beneath the waist line in a rcw of accordeon pleats all around. This, when the mellow October sun shines belt like lattice work, and was otherwise wn up the bust and along the shoulders in panels inclosing exquisite embroidery. ‘The toque was as fragile as the waist, but that is nothing. There has beeri little “cioak weather” thus far, but some time there shall be, and meantime it is well to remember that the very elegant and dressy effects of last year will be again seen, Smart little capes worked all over with white embroidery in patterns and hung with the furry tails of animals are one variety. Another has gor- gon-like heads of impossible beasts as boss- es upon the bust, and huge festoons of Jet suspended from them. There are British capes of box cloth, double-breasted, with large buttons, revers and high eollars, and heavily stitched seams. Tacre are cloaks and jackets which make a pretty use of } leather garniture. Some of the more fanciful models have a wide frontal flap, opening away over on the left shoulder, with huge arabesques of braid worked thereon and big rosettes of fluted chiffon or what not. Altogether, one can hardly be more bi- zarre than the modes of the season. ELLEN OSRORN. ——_—_+e+—_-____ Force of Habit. From the Chicago Post. The photographer busied himself arrang- ing everything for the sitting. This was to be his masterpiece, he said, and he wish- ed to have every detail perfect. “There,” he said at fast, “that will do nicely, I think.” He took one ‘ast look to see that all was right. “Now! All ready,” he said, in sharp, in- cisive tones. ‘Look pleasant, please.” Then he began the actual work of photo- | sraphing the fractured ankle by the Roent- gen process. Brom Life. ‘THE EXT STEP. HOUSEHOLD HINTS Every housewife ought to mark her bed, table and body linen; yet very few have time or talent to embroider the same, and dislike the common indelible ink way of do- ing it, so the linen goes unmarked. A new and very pretty fad Is to have the name etched on the linen in artistic fashion with the indelible ink, or the initials in mono- gram. It is said that nightly applications of lin- seed oil will soften the most obdurate corn till it can be lifted out without pain. Every mother’s daughter longs for a silk petticoat, yet fancies it out of her reach. Perhaps that is true, yet a very pretty and serviccable one can be made of nothing but scraps. Make the foundation of fine black satine. Face is up half-way on the out- de with black silk from a worn out Pilk dre: For the ruffles you can make use of old taffeta or satin ribbons, pink-ng them at the edge, and you can work three or four kinds of old silk into one rufile without spoiling the effeet. A narrow pinked double ruffle is a pretty heading. The ruffles are really prettier when only an inch and a half wide and very full. The girl who has long, heavy hair should save the combings against a day of need. it is often the case that fine hair does not outlast early womanhood, and one feels much safer when the time comes to eke out one's locks, if the curious can be assured that “every hair” of the neat coiffure “grew on the wearer's head.” The “switch” thus made is much more likely to match in qual- ity, fineness and color, and can be made at very small expen: If you are preparing to wash blankets re- member this advice from an old-time house wife. Have the water just a trifle warmer than the atmosphere. Soften water with berax and use castile or some equally good seap. Very little rubbing on the board, but lenty of water and a constant stirrin bout and pounding is best. Two “suds and two rinses in water of the same heat, then hang in the sun. Never wash any kind of flannels on a cloudy day. Fun for a year and a day can be made for a child out of a picture book, the leaves of which are of colored cambric or muslin with pictures cut from old magazines and newspapers, and helped out with advertis- ing cards. Use flour paste and put under a press or iron it dry. White sewing silk veiling can be washed nicely. Take a strip of muslin as long and a little wider than the veiling and run an ron over the two, pressing them evenly to- gether, then run a white thread through the edges of both and one through the center. Wash in borax or ammonia water well soaped, rubbing very lightly, rinse in clean water, dry and rip from the muslin; spread on a clean, thick clcth and iron. In case of an incipient blaze dash flour or salt on it in good quantit; Either will smother the flames. If they are not directly at hand use a rug, old coat, blanket, any- thing that will shut off the air, but be sure it is big enough to cover the flame or you will get burned. —_——.—__. A Chicago Novelette. From the Chicago Dispatch. CHAPTER L At 10 o'clock in the morning the cashier of the wholesale leather house of McMurtry & Co. was seized with cramps. It was the first symptom of those distressing collapses which followed so swiftly and which made the heat of the past forty-elght hours such a deadly thing. At noon the bookkeeper gasped and suc- cumbed. Both men were sent to their homes in car- riages, and the crippled establishment was left to get along as best it could. CHAPTER II. At 1:30 o'clock the stenographer announc- ed that he must go and put ice on his head or his dissolution would follow. He was given permission to save his own life. A rag could not have been Iimper. At 2 o'clock the three salesmen suddenly succumbed together. They attributed it to some soda water, of which they had in- cautiously partaken. Mr. James McMurtry was now left alone, save for the presence of one small office oy. oP resently he arose and put on his hat with a determined air, ‘Tommy,” he said, “I guess you and I had better go to the ball game, too.” WHAT WOMEN WEAR When They Go to the Club or Attend __e Meetings. UP T0 DATE IN LAS? YEAR'S CLOTHES Hats and Gowns Which Are All the Style. COLORS IN RIBBONS HE FIRST WEEK in October marks the opening of most of the fashionable wo- men’s clubs. Here the members meet to give vent to their pent-up “views” upon the serious topics which have been ruled out of conver- sation at the pleas-* ure resorts of sum- mer and early au- tumn. No woman is supposed to think In summer time, and !f she does, it is the height of bad taste to say so In company. Even in the winter, when everybody takes up the serious things of life, it isn’t considered good form to dis- cuss them at a social gathering. Hence the club 1s a necessity, more so for women than men, because women have not the op- portunities of the hotel lobby, the billiard and smoking rooms of men’s cafes, and that ever ready political auditorium, the corner of the street. In general, however, unless the club is crganized for political purposes, all ques- tions cf politics are ruled out. Sorosis, which is the best known woman's club in the country, does not allow any dis- cussion of either religion or politics at its meetings. This sisterhood meets on the first Monday of every month from October ull June, inclusive, and discusses some im- portant theme of public interest at each meeting. Last Momday was their first assemblage of the season, and the subject was the broad one of philanthropy. The ladies he- gan to come in at high noon and devoted the first hour or so to friendly greetings after the summer separation, after which they ate luncheon together preliminary to the afternoon's discussion. A Stunning Costume. There seems to be some difference of opinion as to the proper style of dress for these occasions, and as this particular club is quite cosmopolitan in its member- ship, it furnishes a good average of fashion in costumery. Many of the ladies come in their ordinary street gowns. An extremely stunning costume was worn for the first time this season by a young woman who led the discussion of philanthropy. It was made of blue cloth with trimmings of vel- yet and braid. The skirt was ornamented with a scroll pattern of the braid running up in two lines in front. The bodice, which Was tight-fitting and made of velvet, had an overjacket like a short Eton trimmed with braid. The sleeves were tight, with very small puffs at the top. But the most stunning part of her costume was the hat, which was of blue felt, with black trim- mings. The crown was very high, and had straps of velvet around it, fastening with tiny buckles at one side. Six ostrich feathers stood out like a fan beside the crown, and one dropped over the hair underneath the brim. The fashion of putting feathers on the under side of hats is gaining in favor. Os- trich plumes are generally used, but a hat with an immense bunch of cock feathers hanging over the hair and even brushing one side of the face was worn by another speaker on the topic of the day. Some ladies, especially those who read papers or furnished music, were dressed very elegantly, either in their visiting gowns or in fancy waists. In speaking of fancy waists, however, it is necessary to say that the newest ones usually have a part of the material of the skirt inserted somewhere as trimming. It is, therefore, a very good idea in making a skirt that is to be worn with separate waists to make an Eton jacket to match the skirt, so that it can be slipped on over any fancy chiffon or silk waist, thus giving the effect of a whole new suit every time one changes her skirt. Lace Pieces in Jacket Form. Lace pieces to be put on in jacket form over any dress are now being sold at very moderate prices. One can buy a pretty bolero of handsome Russian lace in cream or black at prices ranging from $3.75 to $7. These can be worn over dark or light materials and are very dressy. They are also made of embroidered chi‘fon, spangled net or any decorative material used as trimming. Even narrow lace -nay be sew- ed around a bodice in bolero form, as the jacket effect is the essential object. Jacket fronts of thin material suggest the ruffled shirt fronts that men used to wear in colonial times. Fronts of chiffon have chiffon ruffles edged with lace running crosswise and covering the entire surface. These will be worn all winter with cioth dresses, to brighten them up. ole lace or chiffon bodices are pre- ferred, however, 28 the Eton jacket 1s more fashionable than the Louis style, and as it is short in the back there is need of an underbodice with a presentable back as well as a front. Whether the jacket be a long or a short Eton, there is sure to be a wide belt worn with it. This belt is sometimes a fitted velvet girdle that may be pointed or rounded in front. Some of them look as if they had been wound around the waist several times and were then fastened at the left side, running up to a point as far as the bust line. Wide ribbon of embossed velvet is being sold purposely for these belis, and is also being used for all kinds of trimmings. When it is wide enough it serves very well for jacket fronts. Sometimes it is put on in a bolero effect along with a front of itself. Plaid ribbons are still worn, but they come in darker tints than last season. A dark green ribbon has cross streaks of faint pink and blue. The bows for stock collars have four loops and two ends, and are quite large. For Neck Wear. Stock collars themselves are very high. Indeed, the longer one’s neck appears to be the better, from a fashionable point of view. It will not be many months before we shall be striving for a willowy, up-and- down effect, instead of that fluffy sem- blance of breadth which has beef our chief pride until recently. It 1s not a‘consummation to be desired, however, for we canont all have necks like the swan, as did the beautiful Josephine and other beauties of the serpentine order, and there is.a great deal of difference be- tween being slenderly willowy and positive- jy skinny with no fashionable means of concealing the fact. As 1 was saying, collars are very high, and plain ones are not admissible. There must be a bit of lace quilled around the edge, or a Mary Queen of Scots ruche standing out ground the chin. This ruching is pleated white mousseline or lisse, and is sold by the yard at sixty-five cents for the best. For a ribbon Stock collar, the up-to-date girl takes a plete of four-inch lace, doubles it, and gathers it around the top edge of the ribbon, making it full width at the back, but narrowing down to less than an inch in front. To make last year’s dress look “timely,” to speak in newspaper parlance, rip out the large sleeves and cut off about four inches all around the puff; this may be used to form a bolero trimming or a wide belt, or both. Then take the sleeve in at the inside seam until it fits the arm moderately well, and after you have put a ruching or a frill of lace in the top of your collar you will be surprised to see how much you look like the dummy models of the newest styles that you see in the down-town store win- dows. What to Wear on One’s Head. It is in her hat that a woman takes the keenest delight, if ft is new, or suffers the sharpest grief if it fs unmistakably old. For this reason she is apt to buy her bon- net first and trust to luck for a dress to wear it with. The hats at the club were of necessity new, or made over, as straw hats are out of the question in October, and no one was so far influenced by the subject of discussion as to deny herself the pleasure of fresh autumn headgear. Some of the hats were sufficiently elegant to obstruct the vision at the best of thea- ters. One was of green velvet with a high crown. It was made entircly of velvet, shirred in puffs all over the hat. The trimming consisted of ostrich feathers of a slightly different shade of green, with Paradise aigrettes to match. Cut steel was seen on many of the hats, but this is more often seen in the evenin: Evening bonnets are made almost entirely of velvet, puckered and puffed In very bunchy fashion. They have cut steel or- naments in the shape of buckles and butter- files, with frills of cream lace and clunps of aigrettes. One white evening hat had a brim that was entirely covered with tiny white os- trich plumes set flat, side by side, with their ends just peeping over the edge. These feather wreaths ar quite popular, and are sometimes used alone as brims, without any other support. They are nothing more than ordinary chicken feathers fastened to- gether and dyed. Feather edges appear on the ribbon that is used for loops on hats, also upon the neck ruching for capes. Ruching is a very neces- sary part of one’s wardrobe. There is a va- riety that is made of several flounces of velvet-edged ribbon pleated together in box pleats. This sells by the yard, and is used for capes, or simply for boas to wear sep- araiely. These come in many colors, but are chiefly black, green or bine. Very few flowers are used, but such as are seen are made of velvet in rich hues of red or purple. Velvet geraniums and Sweet peas are the prettiest of these. Fur appears as trimming upon some of the sample hats in the stores. Nobody has worn it yet, but then it is still early in Oc- tober, and Indian summer is yet to come. —___ ++ — GIRL THAT LOVED A PEELER. THE Followed Him on His Beat in a Cab With Refreshments. From the London Dally Ne' Some men are born lucky, and ex*Police- man Thomas James Macfarlane is one of them. Macfarlane has just retired from the metropolitan police force, after three years’ service, with a “good conduct” certificate, and he leaves the force because of the ac- quisition of riches by his marriage with an Irish lady residing in Lindengardens, Chis- wick. She is, according to the Richmond and Twickenham Times, a lady belonging to a wealthy and historic Irish family, claiming, on the maternal side, descent from the ancient Irish races of the O'Neills, the O'Hagens, and the O'Donovans, the first of which claim in early days an unbroken line of kings in Ireland for some hundreds of years. She is said to possess important estates in Ireland, which she has made over to her husband, so that the ex-Chis- wick policeman has now become an Irish landlord, ‘The story of the introduction and court- ship, as described by the local newspaper, is interesting. It is stated that Police Con- stable Macfarlane first attracted the atten- tion of his future wife by the manner in which he acquitted himself in stopping a runaway horse in the High road, Chiswick. A casual acquaintance soon sprang into fast friendship. The lady herself admits {t was a case of love at first sight. But as soon as her friends became aware that a policeman was paying his addresses to her, they tried by all means within their power to stop the acquaintance, and even went to the length of reporting Macfarlane to the commissioner. The policeman, how- ever, was not to be denied, and the opposi- ticn, as in all true love affairs, defeated its object, and brought the parties closer to- gether, with the result of an early mar- riage. 1t must indeed have been a pleasant experience for Macfarlane, when out on a long tour of duty, as well as a source of amusement and profit to the Chiswick cab- men, tu be followed on his beat, as it is said he was, by his sweetheart in a hansom laden with refreshments; or, if by chance she felt indisposed, the servant would, it is further stated, be sent on a similar errand. Both have now left Chiswick, and intend, it is believed, to lead a retired life in the w of England. Mrs. Macfarlane, prior to her marriage, was Miss Kathleen Badham- Thornhill, and was born at Castlekevin, near Mallow, County Cork, which for gen- erations was the seat of the Thornhill fami- ly in the south of Ireland. She is highly accomplished and has a graceful figure and handsome features. What is, as some will think, more to the purpose, she has in- herited a considerable fortune. Up to a few years ago she was a well-known figure in Dublin society, never missing a state ball or concert. The Badham-Thornhills are a well-known County Cork family. NO MALAGA GRAPES IMPORTED. Vhe Ones Called Malngas Are Almer- ian Grapes, a Dealer Says. From the New York Sun, “The grapes that are sold by the fruit dealers of this country as Malaga grapes,”* said a commission merchant, “are not Mal- aga grapes at all. A genuine Malaga grape is the rarest grape that ever came to our markets, and is nowadays really never seen here. It is a grape so tender and deli- cate that it will not stand shipment well, and importations that have arrived here in good condition had to be disposed of al- most on the moment if the importer hoped to realize on his venture. The Malaga grape crop Is nearly all utilized for raisins and in the making of that Malaga wine connoisseurs talk so knowingly and unc- tuously about and have never seen, much less tasted. “The white and pinkish-white grapes you buy héte as Malaga grapes grow in the al- most inaccessible mountain regions of Spain, in the district of Almeria. Uniike the Malaga, the Almeria grape is the hardiest grape that grows. It is like the region that is its netive svil. Taat region is wild and primitive, with a lusty people Inhabiting it. The vineyards are fifty miles back from the sea, without a road connect- ing them with outside communication. The intermediate country is infested by wild beasts and still more savage outlaws, and tourists have not yet ventured to include that part of Spain in their wanderings. Only one American has ever yet ventured into that isolated region, and that was Charles Goodsell of this city. “The average grape crop of the Almeria district is nearly half a million barrels of forty pounds each—the squatty, tub-like receptacles the grapes come to this market in. That makes about 10,000 tons of grapes that are transported these fifty miles be- tween the vineyards and the wharf ut Al- merla on the backs of donkeys through the mountain wilderness. The vineyards are all-small holdings of the n.ountain peasants, and yield about five tons to the acre. The usual price received for the grapes, delivered on the wharf at Almeria, packed in barrels, the packing being done at the vineyards, is nine cents a pound. The cork dust in which the fruit is packed .jis taken to Almeria on the vessels that bring away the grapes, and is sold to the grape growers, who varry it over the moun- tains on their donkeys on their return trips. “The harvesting of this unique crop is done during August. The vessels which transport the grapes across the sea cannot reach the Almeria wharf because of shal- lcw water. They lie at anchor half a mile or so off. The grapes are carried to the vessels in rowboats of antique pattern and small capacity. The Almerian grape grow- ers and handlers savagely resent any ef- fort to introduce improved methods of transfer. “The grapes begin to reach New York about October 1. This market har-dles about half the crop, or perhaps 200,000 bar- rels. The importers sell to dealers only by auction, which sales are held on stated days, at the Produce Exchange, from Oc- toker to April. They are cataiogued and sold for what they are—Almeria grapes. They do not become Maiaga grapes until they reach the hands of the retailers. These grapes are the nearest to being im- perishable of all the fruits that grow. I have had them scund as the day they were picked from the vines in Spain more than a year after they were picked.” The Last Touch, From Larks. “Now, gentlemen and ladies,” said the street fakir, exhibiting a bottle of his fa- mous hair restorer, “this preparation used externally will insure a full suit of hair to the smoothest pate in the crowd. But re- member this one necessary precaution: When the hair is once grown, then take a couple of doses internally.” “What's thet for?” asked the prospective purchaser “To clinch the roots,” replied the fakir, as he handed down the bottle and pocket- ed two bob. TBE “APENTA” HUNGARIAN BITTER WATER, from the UJ HUNYADI Springs; under the abso- lute control of the Royal Hungarian Chemical In- stitute (Ministry of Agriculture), Buda-Pest. 4y18-s18t SCHOOL GIRL APRONS Devices of Ingenious Mothers to Pro- tect the Children’s Clothes. DESIGNS THAT ARE PRETTY AND USEFUL When They Can Play to Their Heart's Content. TO GUARD AGAINST DIRT Little maids will be little maids, you know, and a romp is more to their taste than keeping their clothes neat and clean. At recess games of tag, to say nothing of an occasional tumble, will make sad havoc of the dainty braid and gilt buttons and velvet and lace-trimmed gowns. It is far wiser to reserve these for dress-up and make a simple little wool gown or two and stacks of pinafores for the school outfit. Then you may rest assured that your Little maid will be dainty and neat until warm weather. These little gowns should be made with a full skirt, gathered on a straight body with loose coat eves for the wee maid from four to seven years old. Her elder sisters’ aprons are low-necked and sleeve- less; so a fancy yoke and big puffed sleeves of silk or plaid and a collar of ribbon may be added. In making the pinafores the choice is not restricted to white muslins and lawns. Any of the soft ginghams in tiny checks or stripes of pink, red or blue and white, are charming when trimmed with colored em- broidery to match. The grass linens, in plain tan or with dots and lines of color, make an ideal school apron. ‘The Uttle kindergartener, as pictured in the accompanying sketch, wears a dainty pinafore of white dimity, scalloped on the edge. It 1s very simple in its construc- tion—merely three widths of dimity gath- ered on a pointed yoke, while deep ruffles form elbow sleeves. A frill of embroidery finishes the neck. The next model—for an older girl—is of fine checked muslin, It has a full skirt and waist gathered to a belt. A trimming of blocks, edged with narrow lace, gives a pretty touch to the round neck. The short ruffle sleeves are also edged with the lace. Red-striped grass linen is the material used for an attractive apron. Its construc- tion is similar to the checked muslin, with the exception that the neck is cut square ard it has no sleeves. The only trimming is a deep neck frill of scarlet embroidery and a belt of scarlet ribbons. Such an Absolutely Pure. Acream of tartar baking powder. Highest of all in leavening strength.—Lalest United States Government Food Report, Roya Bakine Pownrr C ew York. apron is especially becoming to a Httle blonde, while one of tan and bright blue would be charming for a brunette. The Little tot shown above wears a pinafore of white sive plain tan grass Tinen trimmed wit embroidéry. It Is slightly fitted in t seams 2nd has two box.pleats from nec hem both in the front and back. A br collar, turn-over cuffs and a belt mu as jaunty a little pinafore as one could wish. aS ES IN THE DRY Goops EMPORIUM. A midsummer qui ber's dry goods emp terday. Mr. Gerber clerks were drow 4 upon Mr. Ge ium in Sayville ye 1 his half a dozen or the arrival of closing time. Two young women were pawing tentatively an assortment of silks. Gerber’s big cat sat in the doorway ing for a breeze with his whiskers. It, was a culm and peaceful scene. Enter a small mouse upon the peaceful scene, a mouse with a sad lack of judg- ment. It scurried yor in full : head clerk. the two cus- with whoops of n. Tom, "em, ed the head he . bot m ning the cus- nd fog m which y this i bol ast in t Tom also. with lageard f¢ Phe mouse, a morass of When he emerg- trailing t 1 with fur m was He for themseive the y upon arted hastily th leaving Ww i a stock of wat tern, THE WALES FAM Albert Edward is Getting Old, His Wife Looks Young. In a London letter Miss Jeannette Gilder tells how casy it sometimes is to see mem- bers of the royal family. She read in a rorning paper that the Prince and Princess of Wales and the Princesses Maud and Victoria were to attend the thirtieth anni- versary of Dr. rnardo’s home at the Albert Hall, and thither she went. There was a very mixed crowd in front of the hall when the prince and princess Grove up in a brougham, with no gua about so far as she could see, except the ular police force that would atte » gathering. The pr were dressed as any ¢¢ might be who were spen: e afternoon in town. ‘The prince removed his hat when the crowd began to cheer, but he ed rather bored and stolid, while the princ: smiled mechanically. Ap old woman with but a gin-soakei face and filthy garments took off her old hat and shook it inside of the carriage. The p reely noticed it, but the prince ck involuntarily. Inside_ the people who had paid from 75 cents to $2.50 for the priv- ilege of being present, and it was an- nounced that these making gifts to the cause of not less than $25 might hand them to the princess herself, an opportunity of 's availed themselves. little spec acquitting “not unlike a Boston- Gilder His whiskers are ing gray, and feet are rev es, but the r, havin his hair n, and the ing themselves about ks the sa ino & though r, and no gayety, even when she smiles. Miss Gilder the daughters of the 1 jook exactly alike, having rather heavy faces and wearing their hair, as their mother does, in a heavy mass ove their foreheads, an ugly arr suggests much false hair. simply, and do not wear big sleeve by the way, Miss Gilder says, are doomed, if Hyde Park is any guide to fashion. ++ SANKEY’S MOST F. MOUS HYMN. The Sudden Inspiration From a New! paper Poem. From the Outlook. At a great gathering recently in Denver Mr. Ira W. Sankey, before singing “The Ninety and Nine,” which perhaps of all bis compositions is the one that has brought him the most fame, gave an ac- count of its birth, Leaving Glasgow for Edinburgh with Mr. Moody, he stopped at a news stand and bought a penny religious paper. Glancing over it as they rode on the cars, his eye fell upon a little verses in the corner of the page. urning to Mr. Moody, he said: “I've found my hymn.” But Mr. Moody was busily en- geged and did rot hear a word. Mr. San- key did rot find time to make a tune for the verses, so he pasted them in his music scrap book. One day they had an unusual- ly impressive meeting in Edinburgh, in which Dr. Bonar had spoken with great ef- fect on “The Good Shepherd.” At the close of the address Mr. Moody beckoned to his partner to sing something appropriate. At first he could think of nothing but the Twenty-third Psalm, but that he had sing so often; his second thought was to sing the verses he had found in the newspaper; but the third thought was, How could it be done when he had no tune for them? Then a fourth thought came, and that was to sing the verses ar. y. He put the verses before kim, touched the keys of the organ, opened his mouth and , not knowin where he was going to come out ished the firs! He took a long breath, and wonde could vhe second the same way. He tried it and succeeded After that it was easy to sing it. When he finished the hymn the mecting was all broken down—the throngs were crying and the ministers were sobbing all round him. Mr. was the most intense moment of his life. Frem that moment it was a popular hymn. Mr. Moody said at the time that he had never heard a song like t It was at every meeting, the world. Whi of Scotland a short time later, Mr. :ved a letter from a lady at Mel nking him for singing the ve ten by her s That sister was He wished to but Mr. Moody ins and Mr. Sar y pired him to sing that nd t : and was soon going ov believes that God seng with such eff, be His. ++ — - Not Very Advance From Tit-Bi Young Medical Student (to charity pa- tient)—“I think you must hav —a—some kind of a fever, but ovr class has only gone as far as convulsions. I'll ¢ in again in a week, when we get to fevers.