Evening Star Newspaper, September 12, 1896, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 189¢—-TWENTY PAGES. DECIDED CROWNS That is the Feature of the Stylish Fall Hats. NOVELTIES IN RIBBONS AND SLEEVES What May Be Seen, but What is Usually Worn on Bicycles. ABOUT UNDERWEAR Byecial Correspondence of ‘The Evering Star. LENOX, September 9, 1896. HASING THE SUM- mer north from the Riviera to tardy Britain, fleeing from its too ardent ap- proaches to Newport or Bar Harbor, thence skurrying in- land with the short- emng days to drift down from Lenox only when the leaves have fallen—it is thus that the For- tunatus folk rub their magic lamp and have always summer sunshine, but never sum- ™mer heat. Lenox in September is adora- ble, with its still sunny summer days and cool upland nights. Its gayety is abated somewhat by the departure of a few of the younger fry to train for the foot ball teams, but after all not every young clubman is @n athlete, and not every woman would find pleasure in too much of his society if he were. Some of us—alas!—have passed the day when a sophomore seemed so old and wise. Every one knows all about the honey- mocn. No one need to ask whose. The princely Whitney estate Hes away up on the beautiful October mountain, eight miles from a railroad station, but not eight rods frcm every comfort known to civilization. The Adirondack camp, the little cottage, the rising walls of the mansion, the lake, the woods and the wide view are all by is time worn threadbare in Lenox di ion, and even the loves of the richest ec Vanderbilt daughter must yleld place to the eternal, ever-new consideration of the wherewithal we shail be clothed. High Crowned Hats. Chasing the summer means a late au- tumn. We hear forerunners of the fall styles in preparations for gown and mil- linery “openings” in town, but the ten- dency is not to accelerate these over- much. The reports are all of high crown- ed, positive hats, of which three cut of four are to be modifications of the type which ranges between the beef eater and the tam crown, placed on a moderate brim. The absurd style of the double Scimitar shaped paradise plumes has drup- ped from sight. We have ostrich plumes and cocks’ quills by way of decoration, anc far too many stuffed birds and birds’ heads, even to that of the common domes- tic rooster; flowers have had thelr day until another day dawns—and there is a Prompt return to felts and substanual fab- ries. These ara favorite color schemes: Black, with cream or gray; black, with iridescent green not too dark; dark brewn, With tan; golden yellow, with dark green; gray, with dark green, and black, with white, the most striking combination of all. Much use {is to be made, it seems, bra'ds, plain and fancy, in trimming. In most of these chenille cord appears as chief material, combined with heaven knows what; horsehair lace, bias stripes of taffeta or velvet. galloons, raw silk wad- ding and other odds and ends. Huge bows requiring in the tying from two to four yards’ length of gauzy stuff, will be much used. A reaction Is predicted from the Persian and Dresden ribbons to plainer shades, but it may not come to pass. Madame l'Americaine loves to play with her rainbows. A novelty in ribbon is one woven with a broad middle hand of mixed gray or other weak tone, with Inch-wide edges in strong blue, green or brown. As to color, black is a leader, brown stronger than it deserves, and the popular shades of green are the dark grass and clear emerald shades, grading off by insen- sible differences into yellow. Lavender tints, orange, gray, violet and the moss tones all have their supporters. Change in Trimmings. One thing is worth remarking—the trans- parent trimmings that for awhile had everything their own way are expected to vanish as suddenly as they came. The modistes are using them only _occasion- The sober season demands heavier effects. But something of the shape of the quilled velling is retained tr the popu- lar emphatic crowns. There is "othing fiat or insipid about the hat of the season. Except about hats, what is there to say? Nothing save that modes are thus far slow to respond to the changing season. I have noted for description one dinner dress em- Ploying the new‘sleeve masked by small triple capes at the shoulder. These sleeves were close, filmy, creamy and wrinkled to the wrist. The skirt was a perfectly plain cream satin, the bodice a dul! red tone draped to a big bow of the same at the left of the bust, and at the back of the neck another big red bow rises tempestuous. The extreme length Of the sleeves is remarkable. The pointed cuff comes quite to the knuckles, and lace wolleys forth further yet. This, with the unaccustomed tightness of the sleeves, Makes even a plump arm look miles long. ‘The close wrinkled sleeve seems to have @ cert=in affinity for the wrinkled corselet belt bodice, which, in a darker shade than the rest of the gown, is a favorite and plessing mode. Sometimes from this belt depend long wide sash ends. A charming costume in pearl and green empioys this device, and includes also a rather odd cape, which ‘s worth describing, for al- though it is in the main a perfecily plain : of sober and serious fabric, it reaks forth in front into riotous exuber- ance of two rounded bey, pas one over the other and each edged with lace. The dress also flowers in the bodice above tha green satin corselet belt into dainty sprigged muslin, edged with lace at the collar. A picturesque shade hat with a decided crown goes to make this costume beautiful with its dark green felt, velvet bands and @pray of foliage. A Bicycle Costume. It is not—should not be—necessary to Gay that it was not worn by a Lenox girl, of but a pretty bicycle costume passed through here recently worn by a city girl not “in soclety,” though she may not know that. It was simple—just a pair of Turk- ish trousers in the bicycle gray worn cver golf stockings and low shoes, a dainty steel blue silk waist with stiff white collar, bow tie and corselet of dark blue satin and the tiniest little fraud of a round-cornered lolero jacket it has ever been my lot to see. This was topped rather tamely by the usual flor hat with three quills. The girl was ery pretty, and the costi enough to cause a sigh of regi passing of the bloomer, which is at its best a sp.en- did garment, and at its worst a fright. The true divided skirt is worn by the so- clety girl who wishes to appear courageous, but more usuai still is a too-long skirt in blue or dark gray, a fairly long jucket to match, with broad white lapel ja white belt and a batiste or soft sill waist with stiff white collar. White gloves would go with such a snit, though ( myself find them intolerable. Underwear shows the--what is !t? “Re- erudescence,” I believe !s the word—of the ways of years ago. Less silk is to be worn, more batiste and lawn with lace edgings and insertions. Doubtless sili will retain its vogue when worn beneath very thin, close-fitting sowns, however, for no other material !3 quite so accommodat- ing. But the rule remains as stated. Somehow the old-fashioned lingerie seems more feminine and lady-like. ELLEN OSBORN. —— HOUSEHOLD HINTS A noted physician says that ft ts all but a crime for a mother to give her baby tea and coffee. Neither of the drinks can pos- sibly do the child any good, and the first drinks are sure to cause disagreement, the child is the worse for them for se: days, and, in fact, until the system gets to the place where it can assimilate the new “drugs,” for such they are. There are men who say that good, strong coffz2 acts upon them like a drink of whisky, and that it stimulates them to renewed mental action. The woman tea drinker declares that she feels “all gone to pieces” till she gets her cup of strong tea, and it fs quite common to arrange for strong draughts of both if one is called upon to sit up far beyond the usual time, for the purpose of keeping one awake. From this it ought to be c clusive evidence that tea and coffee are not fit for children to drink, and It is a mooted question whether they are really fit for human use outside of the drugs and med- icines that are found in the “doctors’ books." Of course it is the abuse of things that makes them harmful, and most peo- ple abuse the use of tea and coffee. The newest theory concerning coffee now is that its unrestricted use brings on early loss of sight and total blindness. If you want to keep the flies and gnats from around the abode of your pet horse just set a saucer of cobalt and water on the tioor near the animal. The flies and gnats will drink tse water, and you will be sur- prised to find that they are ali gone ia a _ few days. One says so who has tried it. - Den't try to bathe with stingy litle wash cloths. The very best kind of a wash cloth is made of rough crash toweling. The Square of the cloth will answer. Hei on both edges, and boil till all the brown comes out of it. It takes right hold of the dirt. A sponge is not a body cleanser at all. It is too smooth and soft. Pretty gift wash cloths are made by crocheting large Squares of coarse white twine in the com- mon one-thread stitch, and putting a pret ty border about the edge, in scallop fash- ion. Many people do not know it, but for baths in hard water common sal soda is the very best substance for “breaking” the water. It is kind to the skin and is whitening. In fact, is much better for the flesh than borax or ammonia. ‘The woman with the headache is a crea- ture to be pitied. Generally she could help it 1€ she would, or rather, prevent. A headache is simply nature’s revenge for some crime against it. It comes usually from over eating, under eating, or irregu- Jar eating, which causes indigestion, and gases on the stomach cause pressure on the brain, and that causes the very worst of headaches. The next commonest all- ment is weak eyes, and necessity for glass- es. Perhaps my lady wonders why she has re@ hands. If she will loosen her stay Strings she will solve the difficulty without trouble. Tight corsets are said by the phy- siclans to be the cause of both swelled hands!and feet, and that many cases of sore and painful feet are absolutely cured by the patient buying larger corsets. If the soreness arises from other causes they can generally be removed by outside appli- cations. Hot alum water is good for per- spiring feet. Nearly always, the feet will be made easier. by hot water baths. The water must be painfully hot and kept so for ten or fifteen minutes. If you imagine that the new house Is too damp to go into, test it with lime. Place a pound of lime in the house and shut all the outside doors and windows. Leave twenty-four hours. If on weighing the lime ft {s found that it weighs so much as 1 per cent heavier you may be sure that you are inviting pneumonia and croup and bronchitis by going into the house. A nice way to cook veal cutlets that are quite thick is to cut the veal in large cubes, then dust with salt and pepper. Dip them into beaten egg yolk and white, and then in cracker or bread crumbs, and fry in but- ter and beef suet till a iight brown. Make a nice brown gravy with milk and flour of the fryings left, pour over the veal, and serve very hot with nice, hot, very short baking-powder biscuit. Boiled veal will make this dish nicely. e Don’t let your servant use salt on your carpet. You know that damp salt on your table cloth makes it stick, and what else can happen to your carpet when it is put on it thick? It will rot and discolor it in a very short time. Cheese biscuit fit for the palate of Eari Li, and warranted to make you dream of yellow dragons and seashore creatures of the deep, are made as follows: One-quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, one-eighth of a pound of good butter and quarter of a pound of flour are the ingredients. Work these together into a@ cream with the hand and roll very thin. Cut into round or square biscuit and bake in a quick oven a very light brown. It is a foolish habit that some women have of making gelatine jellies and then putting them away uncovered. When a doctor of scientific bacteriology goes to work to propogate his mites of misery he puts them in gelatine, and they live and thrive and invite all their legion of rela- tives to join them. When you pour the Jelly in the glasses or dish, cover with pleces of unbroken tissue paper and you are safe. When the white stone china dishes you use about the stove get brown, scour them with brick dust and shaved soap, THE CHIC, THE SWEET AND THE BLOOMER GIRL. MYSTERY OF A RUBY. Story of a Gem Sold to a Jeweler in Jamaica by a Coolie Woman. From the New York Sun. Toward the close of the year 1883 a coolie woman who had recently disembarked from , an Indian emigrant ship entered a jeweler's skop in the seaport town of Montego Bay, in Jamaica, and offered a large, peculiar- locking stone for sale. She was evidently utaware that any peculiar value attached tu it except as a curiosity, and readily partied with it for a small sum. The jeweler himself scarcely realized the irrportance of the transaction until, after the application of severe tests, he found humseif the possessor of what appeared to be @ ruby of extraordinary size und great value. His good fortune aimost overwhelm- ec him, but he was a shrewd and cautious man, a German, and kept his secret. His business, ulready a prosperous one, having increased, he removed to Kingston, the chiet town, and, taking his brother into partnership, established himself there. One fine morning a few jonths later he took a steamer to New York, ostensibly on a business trip. ‘The jewel went with him. Arriving there, he obtained reports from experts on his treasure. All assured him He then cautiousiy opened negotia- us With tne deaiers. The result was al- st beyond his hopes, but not entirely to bis sausfaction; the highest sum offered for his ruby was enormous, but not equal to what he considered to be its actual valu He led for oth xperis, but, sull r London, had reports fro: and obtained other offers, aining unsatistied, he return- He was now keenly alive ‘of his possession, and was by no means inciiaed tv part with it for a sum below its actual worth. In the meantime his business affairs in Jamaica had become complicated, and the branch bank in Jamaica of the Colonial Sauk of London was threatening him with bankruptcy proceedings on accouat of over- due bills of exchange. Once more he s. ed for London with the ruby, and, in order to stay the bankrupicy procezdings unul he could find a purchaser, and as security for his debt, he deposited the stone with the bank. It is stated that, prior to the bank's taking over the ruby as security, the stone was once more submitted to an expert, and his report was satislactory. This, however, is denied by ihe bank oft ciais, and in the iight of subsequenc events the denial is important. Unable to finu a purchaser willing to give his price, the jeweler applied for further advances on the security of the stone. The bark agreed, but prior to handing over money decided to have another test de. ‘The stone was submitted to a fa- inous jeweler of London, and the result vas surprising. He pronounced the jewel te be merely paste and absolutely worth- jess. On this report the bank returned the ruby to the owner, refused the advance, ard cabled insiructions to the Jama branch io press the bankruptcy proceed- ings. This was done, and the jeweler was declared bankrupt and forced to leave the country. At the present day he is ving in ope of the American states, merely a workman, and practically a ruined man. The jewel returned by the bank was un- doubtedly an imitation, and but a clumsy imitation at that, but here the mystery of ase arises. The stone bought by the Jeweler was undoubtedly genuine. Experts of the highest repute declared it to be so, and dealers emphasized the opinion by of- fers of hard cash. But the stone as finally tested was merely, as the expert stated, colored paste. That the original stone was stolen and an imitation substituted appears to be the only solution. How or by whom the substitution was effected has never been discovered. ‘The bank officials were able to exonerate themselves from all respon- ‘bility in the matter, and the Scotland Yard authorities declared that the theft cculd not have occurred while the stone was in the possession of the bank. If stolen, the ruby has never reappeared on the market, and its mystery seems as far from solution as ever. soe —- - THE MODERN LIBRARY. The Librart: '» Scope of Knowledge ust Be Broad. From the Philadelphia Record. Few people, much to the chagrin of the fin de siecle librarian, realize what there is in the public ltbrary from the educational standpoint. To too many of the older ones it's “a place to get a novel,” but nowadays librarians corsider the handing out of a book of fiction as the least of their duties, Indeed, they're expected to be at least per- ambulating directories of all that's in the encyclopedias. And the questions asked them! Here are some samples from the reference book of the Drexel Institute li- brary: Anything from ‘Where will I find an account of Solomon” to a desire for “Gladstone's opinion of woman suffrage,” with requests for the “history of English ballads,” ‘‘how to learn the address of a friend in the United States army,” “a de- sign for iron gates,” ‘something about transcendentalism,” “the origin of Thanks- giving,” and any amount more, by the way. And it is of interest to know what sort of books were taken out of this same library on one of the hottest days. Here is the Ust: Philosophy, sociology, natural science, 2; fine arts, 2; literature, 2; fiction, 14—a pretty good showing! Outside of fic- tion, and not a few of the devotees of fic- tion are untrained youngsters, literature and the fine arts are in most demand in this library. One has but to look about to recognize the frantic desire for knowledge on every side, in too many cases absolute- ly pathetic. The University Extension idea permeates even the juvenile domain, and from some public libraries in this country books are sent to schools, selected by one “who knows what children like, as well as what they ought to like.” For instance, when @ child is studying the history of the French revolution, Dickens’ “Tale of Two Cities” but makes it the more vivid, and is accord- ingly supplied. “Black Beauty,” which de- lighted us all, tc, thanks to some kind- hearted instructor, on this list. How very wise are the children who elected to be born this last quarter of the nineteenth century. —+o-+_____ Lendon’s Flower Bill. From the Philadelphia Times. The sum that Londoners spend in flowers amounts to considerably over $5,000,000 every year. It fs no uncommon thing for $2,500 or $3,000 to be laid out in flowers for decorations at @ single reception, and in some cases the floral decorations for one evening have cost $5,000 and even $7,500. When Lord Rosebery was married (which ceremony took place in March, one of the worst months for flowers), 10,000 white roses were used in decorations. At Sonn ee covert Garden last year 2,000 plan of the valley were imported from the south of France at KY cost of 2 shillings a dosen sprays; and one of the balls given by the late Col North, when he first came to the “Nitrate King” the flowers ‘ont $o0s0b8 ANY BOY €AN DO IT What One Youngster Accomplished With a Set of Tools, A WINDMILL THAT-18 WORTH MAKING Some Scraps of ‘Lumber, a Few Tools and a Little Patience. WHAT IT WILL DO ——“>+__ Y FATHER HAD A theory that a boy should be furnished with tools rather than toys; and he was quite right, for as a result of put- ting his theory in Practice I had more toys than any ten boys of my set. Be- sides, because I made for myself what a boy naturally wants, my toys were ten times more interesting than any that could be bought, and time and again the whole gang came over to play with them. I have said that the things I made were interesting to the boys; in some cases they proved interesting—altogether too in- teresting—to the whole neighborhood. This was especially true of the big windmill that I made and mounted on a post and rigged with a clapper. Indeed, it made such a sensation that I was ultimately compelled to take it down, This windmill had a spread of nearly eight feet, yet it was very easily made of material such as any boy can get; and now I shall try to show you just how to make one for yourself. I advise you, how- ever, to set it up in some place remote from the haunts of men; mine was too near the center of population. First, get a short, plece of pine scantling about four inches” square. Select a part that is perfectly sound, straight-grained and clear of knots, and saw off a piece four inches long, making a cube (fig. 1). Carefully split (or saw) the cube through the diagonal of the sawed end (see dotted Une, fig. 1). This will give two pieces shaped like the roof of a house (fig. 2). Smooth the split faces and fit them to- ether crosswise (see fig. 3), so that the ridge pole’ of the one piece will run at a right angle with the “ridge pole” of the of the hub point in opposite directions, and follow the line of the grain of the wood. The sails will be found to stand at exactly the right angle. Tne windmill proper is now complete. To mount it on a vane that will always tern to face the wind, take a piece of two- inch scantling about six feet long. In one end fix a long iron bolt of a size to fit the auger hole in the hub (see fig. 6). Make the vane by laying down three laths in the manner indicated in figure 6 and nail across them thin strips of board, just as in mak- ing the sails. Nall this vane to the scant- ling in the manner shown in fig. 6; 1f the scantling is notched to receive it, the ap- pearance will be reater, but this is not Necessary. Next, smear the projecting part of the bolt with tallow, slip it through the hele in the hub, and screw on the nut to Prevent its slipping off. Now hold up the whole machine in its Proper position (see fig. 7) and find the point on the shaft where it balances, At this point bore an auger hole straight down through the scantling to receive the bolt or spike which is to serve as a pivot when the vane swings with the wind (fig. 6, a). Finally, drive a bolt into the top of a stout post six or eight feet high, set your ma- chine upon it (fig. 7), and your windmill is mounted and ready for work. It only remains to give it something to do. My own scheme was as follows: I found an old call-bell, and fastened it upon the side of the shaft (fig. 9, a). I then mounted a small hammer upon a stout screw as a pivot (b) Ina proper position to strike the bell. The spring was given by a rubber band (c c) passing around the handle and fastened at c. On the triangu- lar ends of the section of the hub next to the shaft I nailed two small cleats (d d), with the ends slightly projecting and rounded. As the windintil revolved these projections struck the end of the hammer (fig. 9, d) and caused it to beat furiously. In fact, it made such a continuous and clangorous tintinnabulation every windy night that it disturbed the sleep of the whole neighborhood. Several times I found that the bell had been torn off by some angry and impatient hand, and hurled away to a considerable distance; but I always hunted through the adjoining back yards and gardens till I found it—boys will do such things—and carefully repaired the damage, so that the nuisance began afresh. At last the complaint became so loud that my father interposed, and all these clever contrivances were summarily suppressed— to the great disgust of their inventor. And now it would be a fine instance of the irony of fate if some of the boys who read this sketch should give me the benefit of my own device. The Kind-Hearted Young Czarina. From the Philadelphia Times. Few women who are suddenly given the power that has been thrust upon the czar’s young wife would pass through the trying ordeals incident to the first years of sov- ereignty with the dignity, grace and as- sured knowledge of responsibility that be- trays Itself in the grave face of the beau- tiful czarina. Her latest undertaking is the study of the Russian laws. ‘How can I be expected to assist In the government of a people,” she is said to have declared, “when I know nothing about their laws?” Thereupon she ordered the law books to be brought to ner and began to read dili- 2 PLANS FOR LARGE WINDMILL WITH TRIP HAMMER. Nall them firmly together in this position with wire nails driven somewhat aslant. You now have a block with four triangular and four square faces. This is to form the hub. With a half-inch bit or auger bore a hole exactly through the cen- ter of the block, from the middle of one “ridgepole” to the ralddle of the other (see dotted line, fig. 3). This hole Is to receive the bolt or pin on which the windmill will revolve, and it must be bored with con- siderable care, both in order to get it straight and to avold splitting the block. The rest is easy. Four sails are needed. They are all alike, and each is made by laying down two laths (four feet in length) so that they spread from about two inches apart at one end to a foot or more at the other. Then nail strips of thin board across, as shown in fig. 4. There is noth- ing better for this purpose than the thin slabs of cedar used in making light canoes. The hub, you will remember, has four square faces—corresponding to the “‘slopes of the roof” of the two pieces of which it is composed. Firmly nail, or screw, to each of these faces the small end of one of the sails, in the manner indicated in fig. 5. Observe that the sails on each section other. gently. As, however, the Russian laws, from their vast prolixity and exceeding great number, are an unknown quantity, even to the most profound Russian law- yers, it may reasonably be doubted wheth- er the empress will encounter much suc- cess in her latest campaign. The inten- tion and the wish are there, however, and they speak eloquently for the czarina’s patriotism, intelligence and goodness and kindness of heart. The Empress of Rus- sia is not much of a leader of fashion in the ordinary acceptation of the word—that ig to say, she is not ambitious of earning the reputation of being the first gentle- woman in Europe in the same sense and in the same manner in which George IV was in his day the first gentleman. This is a plank in her platform which is neither un- derstood nor appreciated by smart Russian ladies, who, as a rule, are interested in little save what concerns their complex- jons and their dress. One fashion, how- ever, the empress has inaugurated—the fashicn of nursing her child. Formerly it was the invariable custom for the chil- dren of the empresses of Russia to be left to the charge of nurses. The present czarina, however, has changed all that. A CRUEL SPEECH. eo OT Sena to adopt bloomers, can you say such horrible Paris, People can’t tell us epart. DRESSES FOR GIRLS Appropriate Oostumes for the Cool Days of Autumn. WHAT 70 CHOOSE FOR THE MATERIALS Styles That May Be Followed in Making the Costumes. cgi. AND PRETTY The treacherous September days have arrived at last, when the cool evenings come stealing upon the warmer ones,making the little folks shiver through their thin summer garments and the ever-watchful mothers decide at once to provided some suitable clothing for their restless lttle ones. Challies, albatross, rough woolens and the like are particularly appropriate for little folks’ wear, and there are many very pretty ways of fashioning them. For the little maid who can affect the empire style the following would be most becom- ing: Let the broad full folds of the material— and dainty figured challie would be very appropriate—be brought down from the shoulders, cross- ing, kerchief fashion, to make a slight V- shaped neck. And have the waist short, close up under the arms, in fact, and tied about by a band of some pale shade of ribbon, with a rather small, though full, bow in front. Bows of the same kind fastened on either shoulder, to- gether with the full clbow sleeves and plain full skirt reach- ing to the ground, finish this dainty little evening gown and give a quaint little air to the wearer. For the less sedate little maiden, how- ever, other styles must be devised, and for her a most charming little costume can be quite economically made of some soft, creamy material; al- batross or silk would do nicely. Let the neck be cut low, either round or square would be pretty, the square especially so on ac- count of Its novelty, and edged about by a broad band of some darker shade of vel- vet; a deep, rich crimson would be pretty, and make quite a striking con- trast against the white. The sleeves, of course, must be full, and finished off at the elbow by a band of velvet; and have, falling in full folds from the shoulder, three overlapping ruffles, of varied lengths, and finished off by the crimson edging The skirt may be perfectly plain, or, if preferred, trimmed with a broad band of the velvet, while around the waist should be worn a band of crimson velvet ribbon, ted in two corresponding bows in front. each with long crimson streamers. A dull buff-colored silk, trimmed with black or a rich Browalpaleet would be equally pretty, and with this brown slippers and stoc! is should be wo: i aa Another pretty costume for ou can be made of old rose henr: Let the dress itself be made M bard, with a full gathered yoke and high collar; the lat- ter may be either of the old rose or som: darker shade. Mak: the sleeves full, with a rather deep cuff, tdoor wear tta cloth er Hub- of some darker shade of velvet, edged with lace. Then make to fit over the shoulder a triple-pointed ruf- fle, finished off like the cuffs, by a band of velvet with a lace edge. Shoulder straps of the velve! deftly fastened in dainty bows at the yoke, together with the lace-cdged band at the hem, finish this ef- fective Mttle gown, which would be most becoming to cither the light-haired or dark- haired little damsel. For a somewhat dressier frock than a Mother Hubbard an extremely pretty littl: gown can be fashioned out of some rough woolen goods. The dress itself must be perfectly plain, just full in the waist,with n elbow d a wide skirt. So the dress Now cut to uch for self. fit over this a large, many-poinied collar- ette, finished off by @ deep, full rufie of embroidery and a band of delicately shaded ribbon about an inch wide. The collar must be of the same shade of ribbon with two dainty little bows at efther side. This, to- gether with the broad ribbon waistband, lkewise finished off by bows in front, com- plete this very girlish little costume, which would be especially pretty for autumn wear in a sunny brown with darker trim- mings of brown velvet. Following the styles of collarettes—which, by the way, are to be much in vogue this winter—the following little frock would he pretty. This, too, may have for !ts base a perfectly sim- ple gown, only iet the sleeves be puffed, with a close-fitting sleeve from the el- bow down, where it should be finished off by a turned-back cuff, edged with a narrow lace ruffle. Then make to fit over the waist a generous yoke with two square lace-edged flaps over each shoulder, and two of the same kind, only longer and growing gradually narrower as they turn away from the yoke, to draw in at the waist by a buckled rib- bon belt. This and the lace-edged standing collar add the finishing touch to this s:yl- ish little outfit, which makes not only a pretty, but a very serviceable little autumn costume. —_>—___ THE NEW WOMAN. She Sprung From a Desire to Be In- tellectually Attractive. One of those “emancipated” women who @re said to be abroad in the land, but who can’t be distinguished by men from any other wcmen, writes as follows: “Without going into all the dry details of the relationship of the sexes in primitive times and among uncivilized peoples, we may just take the broad facts which are known to and admitted by every one. Wo- man has, of course, always been and el- ways must be man’s physical inferior—and in times past she has been actually if not literally his slave. She has been the toy afid sport of man, with one, and only one, chance of asserting herself. “This has been the exercise of personal charm, which has enabled her to move in man the passion called love, and thereby to secure an ascendancy over him. The love of power, which is common to both sexes, has been hers, and realizing that she could only be powerful by arousing the senti- meutal passion In man, she has put forth all her endeavors ‘to find favor in his sight,’ as the old phrase has it. “Now, as one of those women to whom men apply the scornful term ‘emancipated,’ I should like to point out this important fact, that our sex is gradually beginning to recogutse that it is ignoble to seek for ad- miration simply for its doll-like qualities. We have not lost our vanity—though we are no vainer than men—but we are now aim- Gladness Comes wit a better understanding of the transient nature of the many phys- ical ills, which vanish before proper ef- forts—gentle efforts—plcasant efforts— rightly directed. There is comfort in the knowledge, that so many forms of sickness are not due to any actual dis- ease, but simply to a constipated condi- tion of the system, which the pleasant family laxative, Syrup of Figs, prompt- ly removes, ‘That is why it is the on! remedy with millions of families, and is everywhere esteemed so highly by all who value good health. Its beneficial effects are due to the fact, that itis the one remedy which promotes internal cleanliness without debilitating the organs on which it acts. It is therefore all important, in order to get its bene- ficial effects, to note when you pure chase, that you have the genuine arti- cle, which is manufactured by the Cali- fornia Fig Syrup Co. only and sold by all reputable druggists. If in the enjoyment of good health, and the system is regular, laxatives or other remedies are then not needed. If afflicted with any actual disease, one mzy be commended to the most skillful physicians, but if in need of a laxative, one should have the best, and with the well-informed everywhere, Syrup of Figs stands highest and is most largely used and gives most general satisfaction, ing at winning admiration in worthier fields, namely, in intellectual walks. “We shall still pride ourselves on our g00d looks when we have them; we shall a do our best to dress well and tarte- uly; hall still look forward to wife- and shall not lose our maternal in- , but we shall no longer allow our features and our gowns to dominate our doubtedly we are ‘emancipated.’ All fields of activity are being opened to us, and the men who now sneer and gibe at us for will soon come to see that we are more companionable, and possess more lesting attractions than in the days when our faces were our fortune and when @ few wrinkles ond gray hairs announced the end of our reign. “To put my arguments into a nutshell, my contention is that the prevailing passion of women has been the love of admiration, because it has become an hereditary tn- stinct of the race that in personal charm lay our only power. Now that we are at last allowed to cultivate our intellects, and put them to practical use, our bid for pow- er wili be on what I consider higher ground: ————_-+e-— GETTING ON A GOLD BASIS. The Tribulat! From the Boston Transcript She was hurrying through the streets down town, with a flutter of anxiety im every line of her new gown, when she encountered a frien ing an old gown and a peaceful express “Oh, come with I can’t stop # second,” said the anxious one, flutter! and the other turned and hastened slong beside her. “I have thought of novhing but stocks for two weeks, or I should have written to you. I hope you are for a gold basis.” said the anxious one. of n we met?” “Cantaloupes What were you thinking J the woman in the olf gown. “The very nic ye “Goodness! How esn you think things a & Ume as this? £ Come with me er. I supp you go into the y that chair and wait for The anxious @ flight of stairs in a safi and her friend saw the her expensive mulous the red, the owner was serene. ou 5 " she explained, sitting own to rest am n devermined to go om a gold basis. ow 1 have to take care of my 0} and gold Is so safe. I have sold out all my stocks, and am turn- ing my properties into gold as fast can. I have just put the money gold, for my Blank & Blank into safety deposit, and now I can breathe @ minute d the amouw “Good gracious! You don't mean you have sold that. It’s the safest thing in the United States.” “How do I know what is safe? Iam sure of gold. “And you don’t mean a little thing like yeu has been carrying ail that gold throug the sireets of Boston? Don't ever dare Jo such a thing again. Give me that haud- bag. “i suppose St wasn't safe. I had a good deal of trouble getting it ail in gold, She told a tale of going al of gold, and how she had been ady 1. wo to the treasury. The i lady y expected to be praised for her ce and foresight in getting herself a gold basis, and did not relish being laughed at. She could not tell at first whether or not she had had her luncheon, her mind was so closely bent on finance, but she accepted at last an urgent plea that she take a bite in a cool place, where ladies lunch in peace and comfort: and there it transpired over the mushrooms that not only had she had no luncheon, but her breakfast had consisted of a hasty cu of coffee, taken in the depths of the coun- try before rushing for a train to ceme up to Boston in her eagerness to get on # gold basis. There was really no possibility of getting the gold lady’s mind off tinance. Not even @ cordial mention of the coming in of small dress sleeves roused more than passing ripple of interest. - y are to be very small, said, with a far-away look. “Don't you think it would be @ good plan for me to sell my houses? I have though! too, it would be better to get rid of th piece of ground out in —— county. I should feel so safe if {t was all In gold.” “For heaven's sake, don’t sell real estatel Better keep it and look for a gold mine on it; that would be a great comfort to you, and you know gold has been found in Som- erville lately “Oh, It’s all very nice for you to make fun of me,” said the gold lady. “Blessed be nothing!” returned her friend, giving the waiter the silver to pay for the luncheon. “I hope you don’t mind my pay- ing for these m rooms in silver?’ “Let me pay!” The gold lady fished tn her purse and found nothing smaller than a $10 ecld picce. “Thank you,” she said, smiling helplessly. appeared that she had her reo et to the country, and her friend nd put her on a car for the station, cents o pay her fare. “Good-bye,” said the gold lady. “I know you think I am foolish to do as I have Gone, but I am so glad to have met you. The woman in the old gown went thoughtfully on her way. The luncheon had cost 75 cents, the car fare 5 cents. She had left in her purse 53 cents tn silver. Her Siang. Written for The Evening Star. She'll stun you by her beauty And ber talent and her wit; But every other word of hers Must be that oft-used “Nit.* She'll tell you in the sweetem votes That's almost heard to sing, How if she just could go abroad She wouldn't do a thing! Her stately mien and carriage Admiration would command; Yet everything this maiden does Is done to beat the band! And as to golf-she'll say to you (This lass who's just turned twenty), Just @rop ber at the links, and what ‘She'll do will be « plenty! But stil I love her dearly, And I vow we ne'er shall party For with all her anti-Engiish, She's a winner from Uie heart! DAISY L6ABEL JOYCE