Evening Star Newspaper, September 5, 1896, Page 13

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 1896-TWENTY PAGES. 13 AUTUMN FANCIES What an Observer of Fashions Saw at Lenox. SOMETHING NEW IX WRAPS Most Popular Fali Hat Will Have a Medium-Sized Brim. FEATHERS AGAIN Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. LENOX, Mass., September 4, 1896. B UTIFUL OLD Ienex was never in mood roads are in their splendor of perfect condition, when the gardens of the cot- tages are preening their autumn colors and the streets are waking to their life with the opening of the season. I ought not to say “streets.” Lenox has only roads. There are here no traces of the urban. There isn't a big shop in the place. There isn’t even a “place.” The post office is such a on might be found in any cther rural | eross r¢ settles ni Hke th ‘There are a few little curio and knick-knack shops, stowed aw in private houses often | enough. There is a railway station, but it fs a ramshackle affair and three miles awa I will tell you a secret. None of the cottagers wants it nearer. In their car- riages they can cover the distance quickly enough, aid it keeps away the crowd. Many of the cottagzers use the new and fine station at Stockbridge. They drive to the shops in Pittsfield or send to New York. Thus the place retains its rural charm in spite of what is the most extra- ordinary collection of country houses in America. The cottag Newport have! father the suburban character, but here is each princely dwelling Zp 7! perfectly amazing lease of life In the black- and-white combination. White cock’s feather with dyed black ostrich plumes make a very much admired effect. The most popular hat shape of the early autumn will be without any question a medium-sized brim, fiat or nearly so in front, but flared on the left and behind, with a full wide cap crown of moderate height, not over three inches high. ELLEN OSBORN. HOUSEHOLD HINTS. Sprinki+ unslacked lime around the dark corners of your cellar to absorb the damp- ness and kill disease germs. It isn’t a bad idea to keey a box of Ime sitting in the cellar or in any damp cleset or room. Hew many times have you spanked the children in the past week because you were cut of temper, rather than because they realiy needed it? A cheaper and purer sirup than you can pessibly buy is made of a pint of granu- lated sugar and just enougs water to keep ic from burning witle the sugar melts. Beil three minutes and «lo not stir. An excellent palliative for large burns is found in dipping old linen er fine cotton cloths in m:Ik and binding loosely on the j burn. Then put over that a thick layer of cornstarch, waich dampen with milk, poured on #3 fast as its dries. No scar will be left and the burn will heal rapidly. Don't let rots of gocds, scraps and shoes le around on closet floors; make wall pock- ets of brown denim—the cheap quality—or of old gunny sacking and tack on the Is, in which siore away your odds and It will be much neater, handier and more economical. If the baby has to have something to ease the pain of coiic give it a few drops of aregori th accord:ng to the directions on bottle. You knew then exacdy what e giving, and you can’t be sure of if you give soothing sirups. It is simply criminal to give a baby opiates such as are found in all so-called soothing sirups. Never leave vegetables, fruit or cooked inclosed by Ks} water and a clean rag. mcats in a tin vessel over night or any lersth of time, as there are poisonous sub- stances in the tin which are highly danger- cus and often poison whole families. When your fine table cloths drop into holes and are beyond using that way any \nger cut the better pertion into squares end hem for every-day napkins. These should be on every table, rich or poor. Children who learn the little nicetics of fe while at home get along very much bet- ter when they get cut in society. An excellent brvsh for velvet, felt hats and creased 1ibbon and silk is made of di: cura ostrich tips. Bench them tightly | together and tie. ‘he very best cleanser for leather is cold Don’t have the rag AND NOW AUTUMN IS HERE. own broad acres—300 of them, 540 or 1,000— with barns and grazing catt’ Ler of the f in the one places acres of land world five hundred act f three from the post office will sel! for more than five hundred times as much as one acre on the main street. The bigg2r the plot of ground the more it is worth per acre The splendid estate bought for young Harry Payn> Whitney by an indul- Here is fine gent papa caps the climax. scenery, here are pretty woodland lak here are hundreds of laborers working Like t 3 to produce such quick trans- formation as would have defied Aladdin. "There are 7,000 acres of mountain land in the estate. Of course, no cothmanding mansion is yet reared on these Whitney in- acres, and it will have to be a palace. deed to exceed the wonders of the Sto! place, or the Lanier p or half a dozen | others. In the meantime young Whitney | and his bride, formerly Miss Vanderbilt. will love in a cottage. Some Fall Garments. It is the very beginning of the Lenox season, but these breezy Knolls stand 1 feet above the sea and there is chill In the air. As if by magic, the appearance of the women has changed and to the fluttering finery of the silly season succeeds good stout and even fur cloth. There are new things in cloaks and capes every hour. The English and unlovely box driving coat, with its enormous c¢ sleeves, still di figures the and finds excuse for its ugi It is y s Well away from the edges, by wide col by big buttons, no more than two on a side. New bicycle coats have made their ap- pearance which e very simpk t neat, with their wide collars and quite full skirts falling over the hips. They are meant to button up snusly in chill weather and have a natty look. ‘A noticeable feature of many of the fall wraps is thelr use of white straps and tabs by way of decoration. A superbly fitting traveling cloak will, for instance, fasten or appear to fasten with a simple big button at the right shoulder. It will be dark gray or rough brown or other substantial color, with trip! titched white collar and cuffs, and no break below them in the long lines of the garment except for a white strap ng out for three or four inches at the aist. Only a woman with a fine figure can stand such a garment. When They Play Golf. It ts all golf. gviding of dashing four-in-hands has al- ways been the particular fad in Lenox, but the “bit maulies” of bent wood, the Craig- enputtocks and other things with outland- fish names and shapes are in every fair hand nowadays. Rough tweeds appear most often on the putting green. The cut fs a shade shorter in some cases than in the spring, but not so short as the extreme bicycle skirt, though the two costumes marked by_ he: have much in common. Plaid is still com- mon but by no means obligatory. Indeed, mixed woven goods are quite as popular, and the ‘Ss considerable use made of brown cloth with tan or drab. Natty little capes that can be thrown over the player's shouiders—until {t gets warm, and then over the caddy’s—are worn, and the head- gear !s generally elther a tan or Glengarry | Donnet, though Alpine shapes in colors to match the suit, and trimmed with bright quills, and even shade hats of moderate brim, are worn. The shade hat is, how- ever, considered rather too much of a com- promise. What a harvest of coin the com- plexion specialists will reap next Novem- ber! It is the charm of Lenox, as it is of New- pert on week days only, that one is free to do as she pleases without fear of the ob- server Here it Is the pleasure of half the girls to saunter about in their golfing sults much of the time. Really, for a glimpse at more formal garb one is indebted to the younger matrons, or to peeps at things not yet worn. As to hats, which are always interesting, there is evidence that the up- ward growth of the crown has stopped at just the right point. The piquant and pic- turesque modes of the moment are far more beautiful than the flat disk of a year or so ago. The paradise plumes are very expensive and hardly usual. Cock’s plum- age, aigrettes and even the head of the bird are used upon fancy hats, so that even the chopped-off and hitherto worthless head of the table chicken may have its vees. Flower trimmings pass away with the summer. They will still be worn, of course, but less than now, and there is a : arivi a thi Cornisse Ohne et Oe) are ctable, aid whet sold ab aucttonjeee | to trapping smugglers only to fail, too wet, and polish the shoes with a bit of flannel till they are dry. Don’t pull your gloves off by the fingers. Turn them wrong side out, then straighten the fingers and blow them up and lay tight- ly aside till they dry. Then fold and put in your glove box. Mend rips the first stitch that breaks by turning the glove wrong side out and sewing with cotton thread; silk tears the kid. Common bottle shoe polish 1s excellent for brightening up an old black straw. Brush well first, then apply as for polish- ing shoes. The best corn eradicator in the werld is a shoe that is long enough to let your toes le at normal length. Try it and see. ‘The woman who wants to get and keep a pretty skin has got to have an easy con- science, sleep well, eat carefully and never fret, the easiest medicires in the world to take if the woman is methodical and con- scientious. —— DIAMOND SMUGGLING. Professionals in the Business Find It Ensy. From the Buffalo Express. Diamond smuggling from Canada to the United States is harder to stop than the illegal entry of Chinamen. An occasional brilfant seizure of smuggled jewels by treasury officers always gets into the news- papers. The failures the public seldom hear of. Yet the records of the Treasury Department are full of the history of months and even years spent by the bright- est of the government agents in efforts to catch and convict diamond smugglers, and nearly every case has failed. For years thousands of dollars’ worth of gems have come into the United States without paying duty, and by far the greatest num- ber have come by way of Plattsburg, N. Y. Government agents have devoted thou- sards of dollars and their best ee an today the older agents fight shy of a detail to this class cf work, and look upon at- tention to it as time thrown away. To | the younger men in the service there is always a temptation to take up this work. In addition to the glory of making a brill- iant capture the selzing officer gets 25 per cent of the value of the goods seized, when they are forfeited and sold. Diamonds erally fetch somewhere near their value. Urged by these considerations the officers new to the service enter upon their inves- | tigations with ardor and zeal, only to find | themselves up against insurmountable ob- stacles at the end. The key to the whole situation is found ir the fact that diamonds are on the free list of Canadian customs regulations. The | meporter is presumed to make a declara- j tion of his imports, whether free or other- wise, but this rule is not rigidly enforced as regards goods free of duty, and many importers of precious stones take an ed- vantage of this laxity. The diamond dealers in this country have brokers in Lendon, Paris, Vienna and Amsterdam who buy for them regularly. By far the greatest number of the purchasing houses are located in Paris. Dealers in New York who make a business of evading the customs laws and the duty have a regu- lar system of running their goods into the country. The jewels are sent to Mon- treal by parcel post, and held at the post office until called for. There the agent of the purchaser or consignee secures them and takes what seems to him the best and safest method of running them across the border. In the long run the smugglers have found the shortest and most direct route the safest, although they must run the gauntlet of the custom house at Plattsburg, and of late years the cus- toms force on the New York frontier has been greatly strengthened. In ten years there have not been half a dozen notable selzures of gems smuggled through Can- ada into the United States. In 1885-6 the treasury authorities made a determined effort to stop this smuggling of diamonds by way of the Montreal post of- fice, and the Canadian customs officials extended to this government every aid in their power. The case was placed in the hands of Special Agent F. D. lowells, now dead, who was then stationed at Platts- burg. He was a big, round-shouldered, en- ergetic fellow of great courage and consid- erable detective skill. A special agent at- tached to the New York office with a wide acquaintance among Maiden Lane jewelers was detailed to work up the case in New York. One diamoné-importing firm, with branches in London and Paris, was then doing an extensive business in precious stones and underselling its competitors. Reputable importers who paid their duties suffered greatly frem the competition of firms which smuggled half their stock and evaded the 10 per cent duty, and they were always willing to ald the government with any information obtainable. From these firms and from special agents stationed in Europe information came that the dia- mond firm referred to was consigning large quantities of precious stones to “fontreal. The agent of the firm was followed to that city by Howells, who visited the post of- fice and saw him receive a package. It was consigned to the firm, was “declared,” and was sald to contain precious stones valued at $20,000. Certain that the agent would leave for New York, Howells watched the outgoing trains and entered the sleeper for New York attached to the night express to find his man the only other occupant. As the train left Plattsburg, Howells stepped over to the agent and demanded the packag>. The man, without any appearance of sur- prise, blandly denied having any contra- band articles about him. He declined to be searched, however,and dared the special agent to touch him at his peril. Howells, whose resemblance to Grover Cleveland, both in face and figure, was marked, took the agent by the shoulders, laid him on his back in the aisle and sat on him while he searched him thoroughly. The man had np sign of a diamond about him. Horrified, Howells lifted the man to his feet with the most profuse apologies. A sult for damages against the government and himself stared him in the ‘aze. Strangely enough, the agent accepted the apologies without further protests and did not pursue the case. Later, it was learned that the firm had been advised of Howells’ movements by an employe of the Montreal pest office, and the cgent had passed ihe package of stones to another man, who had carried them to Windsor, crossed’ the river and shipped them by express from Detroit to New York. For eighteen months work on these cases was continued without diminishing the in- flux of smuggled stones. Two or three ar- rests and seizures were made, but the im- possibility of identifying absolutely indi- viduals and unset gems rendered all efforts nugatory. Two or three times what were considered good cases were worked up, but while it could be ascertained easily that jewels consigned to a firm entered the post office at Montreal, all trace of them was lost after that. The government finally re- laxed its efforts, and only spasmodically since have efforts been made to head cff the Inflow of diamonds by way of the Plattsburg trail. When pursuit on the Plattsburg route becomes too hot, the trail changes to St. Albans, to Niagara Falls, to St. Stephens, and at times to Detroit. It never leaves the settled lines of travel, however. There are no detours through woods and swamps, no hiding by day and traveling by night. The dangers of the customs service are less dreaded than the perils and discomforts of unknown routes. In short, as an old, well-trained smuggler put it, “the custom service is looked upon fs an annoyance, not a real danger.” gad ee WOMEN AS AD.-WRITERS. Has Been Accomplished by Two Washington Girls. From Womankind. The dafly papers of Washington city print better advertisements than the pa- pers of any other city in America. I mean the average is higher, and I think any ob- server of advertising will agree with this statement. This is a result, very largely, of the work done by The Star ad.-writing bureau. This institution has reduced the writing of advertisements for the retail trade to a scientific system that gives ad- mirable results. Associated with the bu- Teau are two young ladies, Miss Carrie V. Riordan and Miss Nannie G. Hungerford, both of whom started as typewriters, but by close application and studying the meth- ods of advertisers and reading all *he var- ious advertising journals they rapidly de- veloped into ad.-writers and manage their own lists of houses. Miss Riordan first.gaw lght in Washing- ton in 1878, and after a thorough schooling, took up typewriting and became an expert in taking dictation from Mr. Willlam A. Hungerford. She -absorbed much of his terseness and versatility and quickly grad- uated into a full-fledged ad.-writer, and now handles quite a number of firms, cov- ering various lines of business. While the bureau does not permit it to be known who writes the advertisements of any particu- lar firm handled py them, a number of her ads, have been published weekly in Brains. In ‘addition to ad.-writing, s Riordan looks after Mr. Hungerford’s correspond- ence, and handles the rate book, supplying estimates when desired, and is well ac- quainted with the various magazines, weeklies and dailies throughout the coun- try. When asked if she thought the ad- vertising field offers any induceement to women, Miss Riordan said: “There is no reason why women should not be as successful in the advertising field as in any other. I believe it peculiarly adapted to women. Woman is the power behind the throne, and it is acknowledged that nearly all advertising, directly or in- directly, appeals to women. Who knows better than a woman what kind of an ad. would most interest her sex? Womea know the different kinds and qualities of dry goods, notions, etc., and are also familiar with men’s goods. It has been a source of wonder to me that more women have not embarked in the advertising field, as I pre- dict a brilliant future in the next few years for the woman ad.-writer. Natural- ly she must adjust herself to the conditions surrounding the business, ever ready to ‘give and take,’ and asking but a fair field and no favors. Miss Hungerford was also born in Wash- ington, in 1874, and is a graduate of the Washington Collegian Institute, and a sis- ter of Mr. Willlam A. Hungerford, s0 comes by her ad.-writing proclivities hon- estly. In addition to writing ads. for a number of houses, she has charge of the checking department of the agency. She has an easy, natural style and can grind out “fashion articles” for dry goods and cloak houses with the ad.-points so con- cealed that the unsuspecting shopper is caught as readily as the wary bass at the hands of an expert. She also keeps the ad. “scrap books” filled with “morsels” from which the other nine writers of the bureau dine often and heartily, which accounts, in @ large measure, for the telling ads. that emanate daily from the agency. Miss Hun- gerford said, when asked about women as ad.-experts: “It has been acknowledged that litera- ture opened a wider, more pleasant and more profitable field for women than that of any other, and since {t is further ac- knowledged that ad.-writing ts the most Profitable end of literary work, there is no Teason why women should not meet with abundance of success in this vocation. A great deal has been written about a wo- man’s intuition, and {t is very generally What recognized as an important factor in every line of thought and action, and I can see no reason why a woman's intuition cannot. be applied to the advertising field in pro- ducing that style of advertisements which would have the most effect upon her Bex, who are recognized as buying three-fourths of the world’s goods.” A : Artistic Ability. From the Baltimore Life. Pallette—-‘Has young Dauber any artistic ability?” Mahistick—‘“Well, I’ve seen him draw a cork with great success.” _ MOTHER-IN-LAW LORE The Navajos Make @ Serious Matter of It. SHE MUST NOT SEE, HER SON-IN-LAW rar Novel Method of Obviating the Unpleasant Custom. MARRYING THREE SISTERS UST WHY A mother-in-law should be regarded as a pro- per subject for witti- cisms, often time worn and thread- bare, is not clear. Surely if any one is entitled to the re- spect of a man it !s the woman who has raised and educated the woman of his choice. This peculiar mental attitude, vague and indefinable, had its birth in the far distant past, and in an early stage of culture the underlying sentiment which preduced it had its expression in certain well-defined customs—notably in what one may term the mother-in-law taboo. This curious custom is found in Africa, and also in our own Indian iribes. Among the Nevajo Indians of northeast- ern Arizona a man cannot under any cir- cumstances speak to or even look upen his mother-in-law. Should his eye rest upon her even for a moment the superstition is that he will by accident become blind. It seems impossible that such an idea should be actually held by a large number of peo- ple. The law must be -broken repeatedly by accident without the payment of the penalty. Yet the idea is current today, and is In full force and effect, exercising an ap- preciable intluence on the social conditions of the people. Ponies for Wives. There are many laughabie and some pa- thetic incidents growing out of it. Marriage is by purchase in this tribe. It is a simple matter of paying your money ani taking ycur choice, oply your “money” is always horses; for the rite of marriage has passed or is passing from a commercial transac- tion into the ceremonial stage, and an of- fer of a certaim number of horges for a bride is a formal proposal of marriage. Anything of a horse kind Is a horse, be it @ s.perannuated old charger or a yearling colt. The commercial side, however, is not entirely lost sight of; the horses are in- spected and approved before the transac- ticn is consummated. On its face this custom would imply that Women occupied a degraded position in the tribe; such Is not the case. Tie Nava- jos are not an agricultural people, their farming operations are limited, and of re- cent origin, and the young women very seldom work in the fields except at harvest | Most of the wealth of the tribe is in | ume. sheep and horses, principally the former, ard the sheep belong exclusively to the wo- men; they are their personal property. Morcover, descent and inheritance are in the female line; the children belong to the mother and are members of her clan, the father has no rights in the matter. The purchase money, or rather purchase horses, are of no direct benefit to the Parents; payment Is made to the uncles and brothers of the bride in certain pro- pcrtions. Should domestic troubles arise which are due to some fault of the woman, the horses are returned, but should the fault lie with the man the woman can and does return to her people; in that case the horses are retained in her family. Many Mothers-in-Law. The mother, therefore, has no direct in- terest in her daughter's marriage, but the interest arising from maternal love might often complicate or even make impossible the usual procedure, and as people in prim- tive society always seek and use the most direct means to an end, the possible ill ef- fects of maternal affection upon established ways and customs were reduced to a mini- mum by the establishment of the mother- in-law taboo, which gradually grew into a fixed custom or law. What harm could an {rate mother-in-law do if she were abso- lutely prohibited from speaking to her daughter's husband? And on the other hand, what show would a man have if lett unprotected to the mercy of three or four mothers-in-law, for polygamy is commonly practiced in the tribe? Some such law is an actual necessity in primitive societies. The complications brought about by this peculiar condition are many and various. An accidental meeting, for example, is very awkward to both. If other Indians are present, frantic warnings to hide him- self are shouted to the max, and if he is on horseback, he will strike out as if for his Mfe. The woman is warned and threatened, ard, if possible, hurried off and concealed bebind a rceck or bush. If no way of es- cape is possible, the man drops down upon the ground, huddled up into as small a space as possible, and drawing his blanket over his head, remains thus hidden until the danger {s past. Should a woman who is @ mother-in-law catch a glimpse in the distance of her daughter's husband, she will dart off to one side of the road like a frightened rabbit, and crouch down behind some bush, or grovel on the ground while the man passes by with his face turned away. Even in those cases where, for good cause a separation between man and wife has taken place, the taboo still remains in full effect. The position of the man who has several wives, and has, perhaps, dis- carded two or three—not an unusual case— ard has half a dozen mothers-in-law, who might crop out in the most unexpected places, ts certainly not an enviable one. The boasted freedom of the savago is to him a cruel myth, for, be it remembered, he most firmly believes that should he so much as look upon the mother of one of his women, the results will be most disastrous to him. She Must Keep Away. The sympathies of the people are with the man, and every effort is made to protect him from the baleful influences arising from the proximity of his mother- in-law. Should he visit a house where she is, although it is her own, the woman must retire when he is seen ‘approaching, and be miles away, such is the law and such the practice. An old woman was seen in the vicinity of a hogan, or house, late one night in the winter, when the cold was extreme. Her hair was as white as the snow upon the ground, and she was so old and feeble that she could not stand upright, but crawled upon the ground, mumbling “‘bes kaz, bes kaz,” (“it is cold, it is cold"), and feebly gathering some sticks to make a fire. She was but scantiiy clothed in a single blanket and must have suffered greatly. Inquiry developed the fact that her son- in-law was in the hogan, and that she could not g0 in there, even though she knew that to remain outside meant death to her. The only way to save her life was to make the man leave the house. Some of the side effects, as it were, of this custom are peculiar. The silversmith of the tribe, a man of high intelligence and a leader among his fellows, wealthy, and wishing several wives, apparently devoted much thought to the problem. His busi- ness brought him into contact with many thousands of Indians, and he was unwilling , to place himself in a position where he might be compelled at any moment to drop everything and run for shelter. He solved the problem in a way which was very sat- isfactory to him by marrying three sisters. Marrying the Old Lady. Another method, even more peculiar, is shocking to us, but to the Indian appears not only proper, but an easy solution of a perplexing problem. It 1s not at all uncom- mon for a Navajo to marry a woman and her daughter. Of course, he takes the mother, usually an elderiy woman, first, and the daughter next, although the nego- tiations for both are carried on at the same time. By this expedient he obtains the wo- man he wants with no mother-in-law ap- pendage. In hiz eyes, all women are to be cher- ished, not from any chivalrous regard for the sex, but because the old women assume largely the care of the children, and be- cause all women, young and old, are weav- ers, and the well-known Navajo blankets, the manufacture of which is now a consid- erable industry, are made by the women. When a woman dies her man does not speak of what she has done for him or the children that she has borne him, but only that she was a good blanket weaver. He mourns the loss of a valuable and produc- tive machine. The Navajo womea mature early and also fade early. Girls are usually sold in marriage at fourteen or fifteen years of age, but they are often “reserved” when but nine or ten years old by a part pay- ment. Eventually, as civilization pro- gresses, no doubt the sewing machine plan will be introduced, and a man will be able to pay for his wife in monthly install- merts. On the Navajo reservation there are com- peuratively few squaw men—white men who Marry Indian women and thereby attain certain rights in the tribe. In such cases the usual price 1s $5), paid in cash to the brothers and uncles of the woman, and not in horses, which constitute the sole and exclusive legal tender when the transaction is between Indians. Very much higher prices than this are sometimes realized. In one instance a white trader offered $300 in cash and goods for a young woman, and a grass widow at that. The offer was declined, her people wanted $350, and had the man not died at this point in the negotiations the sale would have been made. With the Squaw Men. To the squaw men the mother-in-law taboo is not a matter of firm belief as it 1s to the Indians At least, not at first, but they are ready subscribers to the doc- trine. When a white man marries an Indian weman he nearly always discovers that he has married her entire family, male and ferrale, to the extent at least of prov: ding food for them, and he is not loath to adopt @ custom which, aside from its other ad- vantages, reduces the number of his new family. But were it otherwise, and the white man cherished and honored his mother-in-law and considered it a privilege to converse with her, this example would have no effect upon these Indians. They have long ago reached that stage in be- lief when adverse examples have no effect, where they think that a white man may do the most grotesque things, things which would be fatal to an Indian, such for ex- ample, as eating fish, and without effect upon himself. To the Navajo the evil effects which would follow any intercourse with his mother-in-law are as certain as the rising and setting of the sun, and he | governs himself accordingly. ee GOOD TEETH OR NO JOB. Match Factory Girls Must Visit a Den- tist or Lose Their Positions. From the New York Herald. Many of the two hundred employes in Howard Gould's match factory in Passaic are girls. It is well known that contact with phosphorous is detrimental to health, and physicians assert that its action on the tceth will in time destroy them and leave the victim a sufferer from neciosis, a dis- ease which affects the muscles of the neck and jaw. Some time ago several of the employes began complaining that their teeth were rapidly crumbling away. The match factory managers investigated and discovered that the fumes from the phos- phorus worked the trouble. They tested several ways of purifying the air in the work room, but the trouble continued. Then they decided cn more stringent methods. An order was fssued commanding all employes to have their teeth examined and filled if necessary. An official dentist was appointed. While some of the girls complied with the order many did not, and the managers were again confronted with a problem. They read of a case last week where a match ccmpany had been sued for big damages by an employe whose health had been rvined, and they immediately decided on a new plan. When the girls and the few men went to work last Monday they found a big notice pasted on the door. It read: “The following employes have not com- plied with our former orders in regard to taving their teeth examined by a dentist. Unless they do so before September 10 and present a dentist's certificate to that effect they will be immediately discharged.” The notice contained a list of the employ- es who had rot called on the official den- tist. It caused great commotion among the girls, who think {ta hardship. ‘The superin- tendent declares the order must be obeyed. is eee A Suggestive Question. Frem Lerdon Spare Moments. “How did De Coursey Fitzalan, the actor, come to change boarding houses?” “His lahdlady got personal the other morning.” “How was that?” “Well, she was particularly pleased with her breakfast, and she asked him how the eggs struck him.” == ONE OF THE From Life. “I am sorry you stop crying and act like a man.” yunetureq your tire, dear, PENALTIES. 2x pas but if you wear those togs you must Pretty Costumes That Are Devised for Their Use, SUITABLE FOR OUTOF-DOOR WEAR Boys Are Considered as Well as the Opposite Cex PRACTICAL SSS N IDEAS OW THAT THE autumn months are coming and the littie folks’ wardrobes need replenishing, mothers are iooking about very anxious- ly in scarch of ideas as to the fashioning of the little gar- garments. Feathers and furbelows have gone prett much out of fashion, and Puritan simplicity has taken their place. But even simplicity needs some variety. Dupont Circle is a reat place for the little ones, and from 4 till 6 the little folk may be seen walking demurely by their nurses’ sides or playing gaily in and out among the trees and benches, all unconscious of their pretty gowns and faces. One, especially, I remember, a winsome little lass of four er five, who ran skip- ping here and there, rope in hand, in a dainty gown of pale blue dimity. It was a simple little frock made with a guimpe effect, by the full white front. Straps of the materi- al were fastened vy small white buttons across the front and two of the same kind across the shoulders, together with the broad white hat, trimmed with the broad loops of pale blue taffeta, finish this dainty outfit. A pretty costume for the fair-haired little damsel can be most effectively and economically made of white muslin, though some pale shade would be _ equally pretty. Let the waist be perfectly simple, just gathered in at the waist and at the neck, with fuil sleeves reaching to the clbow, and finished off with a broad ruffle of embroidery. The skirt must be perfectly plain to go with the general sim- plicity of the whole outfit. Then make to fit over the waist a low-necked bodice, with shoulder-straps of some gay or dark material; red velvet would be especially pretty. Lace the bodice down the front and back with cord of a color to match the velvet. Something must be prepared for the warmer days also, and for the little ones with pretty neck and arms the following would be most becoming. Any shades of erial would be pretty, a soft buff silk, ‘especially, if the little one could Wear it. Let it be made slightly low in the neck, with large full elbow sleeves, finished off by a broad band of ribbon to match the silk, and tied in a double bow on the outside. The neck may be prettily finished off by a broad ruffle of the material, which should be sufficient!s full to give the little one free use of her arms. A full soft silken sash, tied in a big butterfly-bow, completes this very dainty evening dress, though a narrow band of ribbon of the same color, tied around the little one's head, adds a quaint air to the whole that is extremely effective. But the girls are not alone in their dainty clothing. This year, more than ever before, the mothers are endeav- oring to do justice to their boys in the way of clothing. ‘There 1s always the sailor boy in his full blouse and long trousers, but this year eyen they have been added to. In ad- dition to the duck trousers and full blouse, a loose tie is worn, fastened in a rough sailor's tle, with two ends, and dark blue braid across the chest- Piece, at the wrist and around the trous- ers’ edge give a truly a marine air to our little navy boy. White canvas shoes are al- most entirely worn with this costume. Scotch plaids are again coming in. One little lad of four was seen the other day in a regular highland costume. His kilts and shirt waist, of course, were white, the latter being of some thin material and the former of duck, but the broad plaid sash tied loose- ly around his waist, together with the necktle, cap and socks to match, gave a@ truly highland air to the bonnie little lad. > vS MARRIAGE. A DAUGHT! The Sense of Loss Parents Feel When Their Girls Are Gone. From Household Words, The departure of a son from beneath the paternal roof does not present any specta- cle of desolation. Masculine life has, from infancy, an individuality, an independence, an exotism, so to say, which is essentially wanting in female existence. When a son abandons his parents, to create for himself a separate interest, this separation causes but little interruption in their mutual rela- tions. A man marries, and still maintains his friendships, his habits and his filial af- fections. Nothing is changed in his life; it is only an additional tie. His departure is, ccnsequently, @ mere simple separation; while the departure of a young girl, become the wife of a few hours, is a real desertion —a desertion with all its duties and feelings still fresh about it. In one word, the son is @ sapling which has elways grown apart from the trunk; while the daughter has, on the contrary, formed an eesential portion of it, and to detach her from her place is to Tutilate the tree itself. You have sur- rounded her youth with unspeakable ten- derness—the exhaustless tenderness of your paternal and maternal hearts; and she, in return, has appeared to pour forth upon you both an equally inexhaustible grati- tude; you loved her beyond ail the world ard she seemed to cli g to you with a pro- portionable affection. But one day, one ill- omened day, a man arrives, invited and welcomed by yourselves; and this man of your own choice carries off to his domestic eyrie your gentle dove, far from the sofi nest which your love had made for her, ard to which hers had clung. On the mor- rcw you look around you, you listen, you wait, you seek for something which you cannot find. The cage is empty; the tune- ful linnet has flown; silence has succeeded to !-s melodious warblings; It does not come as it did only on the previous morning, fluttering its perfumed wings about your pillow, and awakening you hy its soft ca resses. Nothing remains but a painful calm, @ painful silence, a painful void. The chamber of the absent darling offers only that disorder which is so melancholy for a mother to contemplate; not the joyous and impatient disorder of occupation, but that of abandonment. Maidenly garments scat- tered here and there; girlish fancies no A Strong Endorsement. From the Democrat, Atlanta, Texas. LINDEN, Texas, March 21, 1896. ‘This is to certify that my wife and son suffered from dropsy—my wife afflicted for six years and my son for two yi that time I re- sorted to every remedy known to the medical pro- fession in this section of the country. In my gicat anxiety ard desire to alleviate thelr suf- fering I ccrsulted two eminent doctors im New York, and veral months’ trectment I could disccyer no visible improvement, rot saying any- thing for their recovery. in Jefferson, Texas, some two years since pened to mention the condigion of my wife and son to a leading physician aad druggist. He y Dr. Williams’ Pink ills for People. After couside persuasion I re- atly consented to do At first 1 two packizes and by the time one packug been taken T saw a marked change for the ter, I continued the ise of them until tw sor boxes’ had been tuken, when, to « uprixe and great joy, my wife and soa had fully wered and are today in tine hh ay Too much cannot be suid of Dr. Williauws’ 1 certainly & great boon to eu! y, and 1 take great pleasure in offering this testimonial. In correction vith this I will state that two of our 4 iysiciaus treated my Wife aud son. JOHN MILLER. ass, to Bed) State of Texas, coun: Jeun Miller, ot suimeril om nis get, ming Dr. Wail Vink Villx i of the Peace. of th feeling dist anes sf nel, 4 such as seroful fonts of Wenkiwers cure in all longer prized; chairs heaped with half-worn drawers left partially open, ed to their remotest corners; a bed in which no one ha pl; a crowd of charming trifles, which the girl loved, but which the young wife despi ad which are littered over the carpet like the feath- ers dropped by the the hawk made the timid bird its prey. Such is the depressing sight which wrings tears from the mother’s heart. Nor is this all, from this day 5 upi uly the second place in the affections of her de- Farte] idol; and even that merely until the happiness of maternity shail have taught her whom she weeps to assign to her one still lower. his man, this stranger, un- known a few months, i) may be bul a few weeks, previously, assumed a right over affections which were once almost entirely her own; a few hours of fle and it amed, tenderness . ino ufficed to effac ty long of watchfulness, of care, and of self- abnegation jand they have not only rent ay her ri first and best be- loved. but her of the filial cares: n, and adored pp s m she kas herself given t thing is left t er emotions f she docs not m th Nature and rese the obligation on her, and her heart must decide whether it will cc her joy er her trial; but in either cz result to the mother is the ne. Nor can that mother reproach her with own this painful preference, for she has reared her in the conviction of the desirability of marriage; she has herself offered to her son. Ard, th to wish th example in her own pe fore. far from ventur kst one should restore to ber al ol nd hatit may her husband, mother Is bo’ contrary, to that they may ev. hn other, even at the expense of her own happines soe MISS BIRD IN CHINA, Amid Many Dangers She Traverses @ District Hitherio Unexplored. From the Londen Mrs. Bishop s perhaps better known to English readers as Miss Bird, has re- cently described in a Sho newspaper her latest eastern journ h took her through parts of the province of Szu-chuan, unknown to European travelers. Leaving Shanghai on January 10 last she traveled up the Yang-tse by steamer to I-chang, and then: y hous to Wanhsien, where M river and traveled by to Pao-ning, in Szu impressed by the beaut the country, the size pearance of the farm he was much fertility of isome ap- being esr hous remark: ‘oal was in gre cance. Along the read the people ex- ited great hostility, but the officials j all_ they could to protect her. From Pao-ning she went, by abun: in the northwe piain of Cheng-tu, the capital of the prov- Ince, she met with very bad treatment, be- ing attacked and stoned by the mob, ‘One large stone struck her on the hes flicted injuries from which she su! ter her return. The Cheng-tu nother marvel- ous example of fi y and wealth. Mrs, Bishop says she never saw anything like it anywhe She traveled for eleven days s - plain and found St irrigated in ance in every part. It ms that ages ago—it !s not known when—a n who has had e grandest temple in China ters of the Min river { they fertilize the whole pl such an irrigation system be neither floods nor droug’ ected to his memory dt n and that t K is at the base of t hills, is e ter for the trade of Northern Thibet Thence Mrs. Bishop went up the Min river, which Chinese consider the Yang-tse, to Wei-chau, and, turning Li-fan-ting river, reached the town of th thorities from name. Here the could to convert Mantsze country bey however, and found semi-indepe to China, but are ruled by Their appearance is quite Caucasian, men and women being very They live in lofty store how which resemble feudal cast! every village there is The customs are those of the Chine: a di different ople are rigid Buddhists, and the signs of their reli are everywhere. Mrs. Bishop found them friendly and hospitable, and thelr coun- try, as , indeed, as the whole country after leavi mbina ft Sx w a branch of the Min, on the Teukushan mountain, and, crossing a pa r 14,000 feet high, de: pe R ri an affluent of the € Gold river. Owing to troubles between the tribes here, the bridges on the Rongkal w broken down, and she was unable to ¢ out her intention of perfo the teen days’ journey down to Gold of the post road to Lhasa. movs quantities of nitr found oa this route; the riv of emerald green, ard of torre considerable On her return Mrs. plain of Cheng- Kia-ting, and t beautiful country to Chung-kin, where, except abong the found a hostility to foreig tonished her by its in doubt that the peop! do realiy believe that for or tear out their eyes, and elsewhere she saw children wear red cross, on green ground, as a c against foreigners. It s ms that the paid to the French missions losses in the riots has lar resentment. Shi desired to protect fe Mrs. Bishop has made full notes of her journey and taken a number of graphs. She went from Shanghai to in search of rest; and thei bay a second visit to Corea. Frozen $ jean living at Denver observed bubbles sent adrift when was about 14 degrees bi froze and fell to the groun¢ of ice, When the temr the bubbles would from change of temperatu air could not be ascertain