Evening Star Newspaper, July 25, 1896, Page 22

22 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JULY 25, 1896--TWENTY-FOUR PAGES. OUT OF SARATOGAS INTO SARATOGA. IDEAS IN BLOUSES —__+—___ Some of the Bizarre Effects Seen in Decorated Bodices. ge LATEST EDICTS OF DAME FASHION —__ + — Styles in Capes as Seen at a Fash- ionable Resort. > WHI!’ BLACK AND E HAT Correspondence of The Evening Star. SARATOGA, N. ¥.. July 24, 1896. I SUPPOSE THAT, next to politics, the chief subject of con- versation here, when one wishes to be seri- | ous and improving. is introduced by the in- evitable question: “Have you read How Saratoga Story yet?” I think the question characteristic of the Saratoga frame of mind. Any number write any number of ut Newport, and no genuine New- | porter would bother her head with wonder- ing whether any other person had read them er not. I'm afraid the Newport point of s ss Ameri- well i CHILD LIFE IN CHINATOW The Wiles and Ways of the Youthfal Celestials. Frem the San Frat Wave. It sounds very grand to have breakfast | at 10 or half-past every day, as the Chinese chiidren do, but when you find out that the dinner at 4 is their only other meal, and that they have to get up just as early as if the bell rang at half-past 7 sharp, it doesnt seem so luxurious. Indeed, there is very little in a Chinese child's life that a “Chris- tian kid” need ehvy, unless it’s having a queue to jump ‘rope “with?But down in Chinatown. they. don’t jumpsrepe, or Fol- low My Leader, and King William is utterly So little Mongolian ever drags rain of cars after him, playing ¢ Southern Pacific, or whizzes down s feet on the front axle of a don’t know a game when ometimes you see one boy ther a push, and the other pushes nd they both laugh, which is | dimentary attempt at tag, but | ng really complicated like tag or} tag would be utterly beyond them. enough, and amazing quick = it just isn’t in them to play. eS consist of toddling or run- | “trotting, according to age, up | and down the street. If you invite them in to a Christmas tree, as good people do, | it around it in ‘stolid silence, staring | at everything, but without uttering a | single whoop. They take their toys with Spectful fingers, never offering to get on the floor and try them, and as for | the candy, they want to stuff it into their big red handkerchiefs and run home with it_before they've touched a piece. Perhaps the conditions under which they | live help to make them unchildlike. The S can go to the Chinese public school, ! ani are rather encouraged to grow up, but; the girls! They are shut up in stuffy | rooms, forlorn little women hermits, with bandaged feet, and souls that have even | less chance to grow. Or they are sold as slaves, even when mere babies, and nobody cares whether their feet are big or little, so long as they never get too tired to work. The government tolerates slavery in China- town, provided the slaves are not ill- treated—that is, beaten with sticks and burned with irons and forced to work from dawn till it is nearly dawn again. Then it lets the Suppression of Cruelty Society res- cue them and take them to the mission, and finish their bringing up on a Christian basis. The Chinese resent these rescues | very much, as a slave girl will always bring a good price, and sometimes they fight it out bitterly in court. Once dyna- mite was found in front of the Mission | House, and on another occasion the follow- ing letter of warning rece!ved, written in Chinese: = “Your religion is vain; it costs too much money. By what authority do you rescue girls? If there is any more of this work, there will be a contest. and blood may flow: then we will see who is the strongest. We send you this warning. To all Christian teachers.” : But the rescue work goes on undaunted, and tactful women work their way into Chinese homes, and give a little teaching to the shut-in women and children, who have no other chance for education. It is very amusing to see the little China boys in school on the afternoons their native language is taught. They all study at the top of their lungs, and the teacher can tell by the sound if even one stops. Each learns something by heart—a passage out of Confucius, perhaps—then comes up and stands with his back to the teacher while he recites, a very trying position, for inistakes are promptly and forcibly ‘cor- rected. Children are never spoilt in China- town, and their personal dignity gets little consideration. No China boy ever “sassed his pa,” and they do what they're told like little automatons. The mothers are often prangely apathetic, and don’t know what is to fake a motherly fuss over a baby. Bumped heads get small consideration in Chinatown. When a baby fs so ill that it is not expected to recover, it is often taken down to the undertaker’s and left there to die as best it can, while the mother goes Stolidly back to her household duties. What else can you expect when you know the ‘way she {s brought up and the way she is married? If a Chinaman wants a partic- ularly nice wife, he applies at the misston, and, if his character is found all that could be expected, half a dozen girls are shown to him. He Inoks them over, and “‘spots his girl,” as they say in Pescadero, who generally accepts him on the spot. Once a girl caught some of the American ideas and refused several suitors, much to their astonishment. After persisting in her se formed Newporter looking up from her French novel or from some dull British tome and inquirin; ‘Who's Howells? Some American writer, isn’t he?” And, oh, there is brave gowning under the lisping trees, never more brave than now in their lush green after the abundant rains! ‘There are pretty dresses and constant change and variety often, popping daily out of those vast trunks to which Saratoga has given its name. I do not know in all the world a better place to visit, if one would see pretty kaleidoscopic effects and flashes of color day after day, than Saratoga. See the gathering in the forenoon at one of the springs, catch the glinting lights of the afternoon carriage parade, sit out the band concert in the evening, and wind up with a hotel hop in one of those vast fifty-acre af- fairs, and the eye will be bewildered by con- fusing impressions of tints and combina- tions of fabric and flashing eyes and regal forms. New Ideas in Blouses. Mine was, I know, though I'd seen it all before. Yet I retain the memory of some of the prettiest things. There are the new ideas in blouses, as fresh from London and Paris, some of them, as the best that New- port can show. I am not speaking now of shirt waists and blouses, but of the cos- tumes built to match. Bizarre effects in decorated bodices certainly find fav One of the most striking morning gowns the day revealed was made of canvas. The bodice was literally covered with alternating horizontal strips of black velvet gleaming with gems and of frills of soft lace. The sleeves were of the new bell-muzzle, wristed, Ught-arms and puffed-shoulder variety; and oh! what a love of a hat, simple as it was, with its two jet black wings and wealth of lace! Another quaint and pretty bodice effect is produced by knotting a white silk kerchief flecked with yeilow dots just at the bust of a rough blue cloth gown. Below it is a wide belt of black velvet. Beneath it shows a neat white shirt waist with many pleats. Above it are a stiff collar, small black tie and seasonable hat. There is another new bodice that 1s very pretty, and can be worn equally well with any dark skirt. It is a simple little affair of white chiffon, with the bodice front hang- ing loose over a tight black velvet corselet. Across this chiffon froni, which is finely pleated, run a number of horizontal bands of black velvet ribbon, and a few similar bands outline the pleated edge of each shoulder puff. When the girls saunter up and down of an evening they sometimes throw over their plump shoulders pretty little drab capes, or capes of fawn-colored cloth. They look wonderfully cute in contrast with the shin- ing locks of hair bared to the dew. A Gorgeous Ball Dress. The prettiest ball gown I have seen as yet was sufficiently magnificent for a duchess. It was corn-colored yellow satin, with a skirt almost entrain and little fit to dance in. It was richly embroidered with pearls, there were wide lapels of the yellow satin over an antique corsage, and from the square decolletage depended a fall of gold lace, knotted with fresh roses. It made you think of “barbaric pearls and gold.” So did the great gold girdle worn by a slen- der woman over a princess gown of pale yellow—a girdle which was really two girdles, one running fairly straight about the waist, the other drooping in front in Theodora fashion and bearing a huge pen- dule of gold. The whole affair had a splen- didly heavy look. There are many clever women whips seen: in Saratoga, clad usually in garments rather Parisian than British, after the Newport’ fashion, and this fact makes the carriage parade finer as a pageant than anything seen In the city by the sea, and gayer 2ven than the severely correct costuming 0. the autumn coaching parades in New York. A strong favorite among the carriage. wo- men is the carriage cape, and {ts ¢ color is apt to be fawn or a warm gray a tinge of red in it. There is almost no horseback riditiz in Saratoga. There is less bicycling than one would expect to see, with such pleas: virons and perfect roads. A pretty recent addition to a bicycle outfit is a tiny leather toilet bag, strapping on the handle gars and containing comb, brush, powders box and puff and a tiny mirror. 4 ‘The white hat with drooping brim: and high, narrow crown looped with black rib- bons is a rather picturesque thing of: the spinsterhood until she was twenty-three, which is disgracefully old in Chinatown, she gave in and made a very good match. Nearly all the mission girls sooner or later Bo out to little homes of their own, where they love Jesus and have pillow shams, which together constitute the Chinese ideal of all that is high-toned. ———_+e+____ THE WELSH LANGUAGE. Antiquity and Romance of Its Litera- ture. From the London Standard. One Breton investigator has affirmed that Welsh was the language of the Titans, while another has explicitly stated that it was the mother tongue of “Saturn, Jupiter and the other principal gods of heathen antiquity.” Upon ‘so obscure a point we may, perhaps, be allowed to retain our doubts; ner are we called upon to bow with absolute deference to the conclusion arrived at by a more modern Cymric schol- ar that the scheme of Dante's “Divina Commedia” is due to Celtic sources. No one, however, would dream of contesting that to the Cymric branch of the Celtic Ta we owe the origir of the Arthurian le- | gena. We do not know whether it will be one of the duties of the Welsh University to endeavor to revive the real, unadulterated Celtic literary traditions, and to purge and purify tnem from the accretions due to foreign intluence. We should be disposed to say that Celtic scholarship will be more beneticially und more successfully employ- ed m collecting the indications of the in- fluence exercised by the Celtic spirit over the English language, English romance and English ways of thought during the very period when it was supposed to have been repressed, if not wholly destroyed. Criticism, too, will have abundant work on its hands in seeking to separate the au- tnentic form the spurious in the alleged writings of the earlier Welsh bards. In the first year of the century there was published the “Myvyrian Archaeology of Wales,” a collection of the most celebrated works in Welsh literature from A. D. 500 to A. D. 1400, under the editorship of Mr. Jones, Euward Williams, known local- ly as dward of Glamorgan,” and Dr. Owen Pugh. But though seventy-seven poems are there ascribed to Taliesin, Mr. Stephens considers that fifty-seven of them are demonstrably spurious, and that only {welve of them are probably genuine—that is to say, belong to the age to which they are attributed. Few scholars, however, would be prepared to challenge the asser- tion of Renan that the sixth century was the golden age of Cymric literature, though its first epoch is usually taken to start from still remoter times, and to extend to the date of the Norman conquest. But it is not till the Chronicle of Caradoc, a some- what dry record, recalling in its general scheme the more famous Anglo-Saxon Chronicle: To the same period belongs the chronicle of Geoffrey of Monmouth. But, as, though a Welshman by birth, the Bisn- op of St. Asajh elected to write in Latin, we presume that his labors, however in- teresting and important, would not be claimed by true Welshmen as a portion of Celtic literature. —____+ e+ —___ Visiting Cards. A Paris correspondent writes to one of ‘the London papers: “It appears that the sovereigns and their families are the larg- est consumers of visiting cards. These convenient pieces of pasteboard are usei in every class of the social scale, and I have known men servants and waiters to use them. Cards are useful in paying vis- its, and still more useful to avoid them, and there is nothing surprising that the total number exchanged every year in clv- ilized countries should be estimated at about 600,000,000. An authority on the sub- ject tells us in the French Stationer’s Re- view that the Prince of Wales has two sorts of cards. On one for home use is written ‘Albert Edward,’ on the others, for continental use, ‘Le Ut de Galles.’ The German emperor and the Emperor of Au: tria, according to a purely German custom, print on their cards a part of their nu- ™merous titles. They are an exception. Sov- ereigns will send cards to hundreds and to thousands of persons every year, in fact, to almost everybody. They are the politest people in the world, and keep several sec- retaries to send their congratulations or re- grets broadcast. The greater part of Hu- ropean royalties order their cards in Paris.” moment. ELLEN OSBORN. THE HYGIENE OF THE EMOTIONS. How the Worry of the Mind Af; the Body. : One of the new discoveries of hygi the fact that in the emotions we nave within ourselves an effective means of sui- cide. If the emotions are not progerly restrained and regulated the body ma: be slowly but, surely worn out, even itaout the sufferer himself suspecting what the secret canker is. Dr. M. L. Hoityook shows the importance of keeping our o0d- ily expenses at or near our physiological resource: Many persons whose habits of eating, drinking, dressing, bathing, ete., are unexceptionable, are so extravagant in their expenditures of vital force that they e is are always below par in health. This is characterized as physiological extrava- gance, immoral bodily conduct. There are times when the bodily resources must be freely spent for others, as in emergen- cies, sickness, etc., but after the strain is over the powers may be recruited by rest, sleep, recreation and food, and no special harm ensues, If this is not dene there may be danger of a permanent break- down. The nervous forces are spent most rapidly through the emotional nature. The pleasurable emotions are love, hope, joy and peace. These are health-giving, and if not in excess, not exhausting. The painful emotions are fear, hate, anger and Jealousy. These exhaust the vital ferces in two ways. They diminish the genera- tion of energy in the body by interfering with digestion and assimilation of food, and they also consume rapidly and to little purpose what energy is produced. There is much ill health which cannot be traced to its true cause unless attention is turned to these painful emotions. It has of late been found that fatigue caused a temporary change in the blood, and a healthy person who is inoculated with the fatigue poison speedily exhibits all the symptoms of extreme relaxation and ex- haustion. In the same way the evil emo- tions, and especially anger, produce sub- stances which are very pvisonous, and if Senerated in quantities large enough they might destroy life. Even in ordinary quantities they lower the vital tone, and Waste life’s forces most extrayagantly. Hate and jealousy are also most danger- Ous emotions to encourage, and there is no knowing how much il! health has its chief cause in a slow, chronic fear which si- lently corrodes the nervous system, and not only shortens life, but renders it less effective. Dr. Holbrook, while admitting the difticulty of finding a general remedy, insists that the only true cure for the dis- ease of evil emotions is to practice self- control and substitute the better emotions faith, hope and love. These all con- serve health; they are to the mind what ir, light, exercise and temperance are to the body. -~co0 IN THE CITy. Geehaav Had Been to All the Restau- rants, but Misses One Tiling. From the Detrolt Free Press. “So you had a good time at the city last spring?” said the summer boarder. “Yes, sirree,” replied Mr. Elihu Geehaw. “Me and Mehitabel had about the finest time we’ ever struck. We was on the go all day an’ half the night. It was about the excitinist three weeks we ever put in.” “I suppose you went to the theaters?” “Every one o’ them." “And to the churches: “Visited ‘em all an’ heard preachin’ in most of em.” “No doubt you took in the fine restau- rants?” ase Smith's, Carver's, Tippums’, Sky- “Et cetera?” “Um; I dunno’s we did. Joined, a faint expression of disappoint- ment crossing his face, “I guess we et aroue everythin’ else thet ever Was cooked.” But,” he re- 00. Oyclone Cut Down Alimony. From the St. Louis Star. Loutze Schultz has a divorce suit pend- ing against her husband, and he was under crders to pay her $4 a weck alimony. He has not paid her since May 18, and when cited in court today made the defense that his house was damaged in the cyclone. He was ordered to pay his wife $300 for arrears & alimony and attorney's fees, but the alimony was cut to $9 per week. THE SUMMER GIRL A Clever Selection of Costumes for Different Ovoasions, SUITED 10 EACH, (NDIVIDUAL STYLE Some Idea of “tha Wardrobe for a Season's Campaign. - A GREAT VARIETY ae The summer girl who is clever uses dis- crimination in the choice of the gowns she Wears, selecting them not only with a view to their appropriateness for the occasion, but also with reference and deference to the taste of the gentleman who esccrts her. Some men have a fondness for the stun- ning girl; some prefer the piquant style, with ruffies and frills and lace; others like the dreamy maiden, with soft draperies on her lissome form and a far-away look in her eyes. There are many variations upon these types, each of which sooner or later finds {ts affinity in some masculine soul. There are some girls who are natural types of one kind or another, and these wculd do well to accept the fact, and Ge- velop themselves to the utmost in their own particular lines: Sara Bernhardt, tor instance, is a good example of the lithe and lissome style that looks best in cling- ing draperies, and she is also an exampie Gf the woman who lives up to her best lines and is true to her style in. every particular. She will not use a play in which she is compelled to wear gowns unsuited to her style. ‘Yhis particular style, by the way, is going to be exceedingly fashionable the coming season, because it is the best suited to the large waists which have at last triumphed over the traditions of the mediaeval French courts and the modern stage. The waist, or, rather, the dividing line between the upper and lower parts of one’s dress, will come higher up, after the empire fashion, and the Louis XVI, compressors will be seen no more. A vivacious maiden would do well to avoid this style, as she will be sure to do something out of keeping with the charac- ter at some inauspicious moment. She will be safer in rutties and lace, for this kind of girl is expected to do unexpected things and nobody is ever shocked. Different Styles of Girls. Perhaps it is the fluffy girl, too, who Is most universally popular. At least such is the result of some inquiry on the subject among many types of men. ‘The diapho- nous fitittering maiden finds her way into the hearts of scholars and writers as read- ily as she charms the society swell or the nglish lord. Most men will tell’ you in confidence that they are sfraid of the tailor-made girl. She is coo severely correct and faultless, and they feel uncomfortable when she’s UDU IES ee SO ee Young men who are fond of sports usu- ally like a girl whd can participate in their enjoyments without Interfering with thefn by the display of 'femninine weakness. Said a young Princeton fellow who was questioned about his taste In summer girls: “I like a girl that {s up-to-date—one that can ride a bic¥cle;-qp-a horse, or swim, or steer a boat.” Such ‘@ girl Gagaity wears blazer suits with shirt front® and mannish ties and stunning revers. /Her hair ts always slick, and it does much about the ten- drils on the les, thotigh if the locks be naturally curly {t 18 a great advantage, especially when éne fs out for-a sail. in general, a young. college man, who has not ledrnel to distrust himself and never thinks of being ‘afraid of a girl, is likely to admire i stunning. girl with a certain “go” about*her that dannot be ex- pressed in any teak. than by the use of the slang phrasg. }That maiden, then, who had a fondness for athletic college men ~and what gir} has fot?—if she is confident that she can carry off the part, will find it advantageous to cultivate an interest in yachting and aceustom herself to the tor- ture of stiff collars, mags But fortunately for the butterfly maiden who couldn't look mannish if she tried, all college men are not sporting fiends, and there is plenty of chance for her to shine without the accomplishments and the fetching ccstumes of her sister sports- woman. The girl who gan embody the characteris- Ulcs of all three styles in her own person with equal success 1s a remarkably clever young woman, and yet there are many who do. This is the kind of girl mentioned at the beginning—the one who adapts her- self to her surrourdings, and more particu- larly, to the, style of man she is. with,- A Varied Wardrobe. To do thjs requires a wardrobe. that is as varied as the sporting girl’s parapher- nalla. First there is that stunning jacket with white revers to be worn to the boat when Tom comes down from his camping trip with the college fellows to spend a week or two at “the shore.” ~The loos fronts are Iined with white, and there is a jabot of white lace down the front. The ripple basque is quite long, otherwise the maid would look old; as it is, she looks fetching and stylish, with her white leg- horn hat and white parasol, Of evening gowns she must have five or six, for whatever she does she doesn’t want to grow monotonous and come to be known as “that girl that wears pink to hops.” Pink 1s a very good coler in moderation. She has a pink brocade with the sleeves off the shouiders and jeweled straps to support it. She also has another pink gown which is so veiled with green organdy ina Persian pattern that it is hardly recogniza- ble. This gown, which is merely lined with pink silk, has three flounces around the bottom of the skirt, all edged and headed with white Valenciennes lace. The waist is very low on the shoulders with a flounce each of organdy and wide white lace around neck and over sleeves. The sleev: are nothing but a collection of flounce: one above the other, and they are not trim. med alike; one sleeve has a sprightly green bor at the tip of the shoulder, and the other has a little three-corncred tab of silk flounced with white lace. The. green ribbon which finishes the wyst hangs in a long end to the top of the flounces on the skirt. Her foll—for every clever belle has one— wears a blue and white brocade with blue and silver tinsel waist and turquoise chiffon flounces for sleeves. Her beach gown is lavender and white plaid flannel, and she doesn’t forget. the rhapsody-inspiring empire gown. Then there is the green dimity with Dresden ribbon trimmings for veranda wear in the morning, and a;.dett Uttle challie with rose buds in it, THE latter has a green silk yoke and coftar ‘with lace edged points and a bow at the Nick. This she wears upon her afternoon iimbies along the bank of a laughing brobk, where it is just possi- ble somebody my, Bra her perched on a log that bridged fhe 2 tream. Her leghorn hat ts covered With jtoses and purple vio- lets with a fan Ugw df at the back. fe She has many other hats, among which is a green straw, With o sort of basket crown and a wide brim that turns up high in the back and {8 bdnked with white roses and green leaves. There are roses on top, too, and nodding white clovers. After all, this is Orly the beginning of her wardrobe, Without a word sald about her bronze sfoes, her linen parasols, fancy lingerie, gloves, stockings and all the rest. It 1s merely a te Hon to the young wo- pink ribbon set high man who wants {o the rage with every- body as to what sie will have to do in preparation. a NO FAT WOMEN THEN. All the Gainsborough Beauties Were Just the Same in Figure. From the Nineteenth Century. Sir Joshua, Gainsborough, Romney, the men of genius who embody a brilliant epoch of English painting, have certainly rendered the grace end charm of woman- hood in a quite unequaled manner. But grace and charm are not everything. f consider that an ideal of womanhood which is founded almost exclusively on grace and charm is a very poor ideal. And not only is their ideal a very filmsy one, but the way-in which they allowed it to swallow up the individuality of their sit- ters is fatal to the highest portraiture. There is an astounding sin-ilarity of type throughout the whole school. Were none of their innumerable female sitters ever broad-shouldered? Had they none of them big, firm mouths and square jaws? They cannot all have been slim and dainty. Had none of them the magnificent robust type of the Venus of Milo or of the women of Titian? ¥ Indeed, we may go much farther. Some of them must have been fat. Do we ever find a stout woman in the painting of this school? And some of them must have been short and squat, and some of them must have been downright ugly. But we never see them. I am aware that there is the most extra- ordinary and even uncanny power of adap- tation in the female form to the prevailing fashion, but it is not unlimited. For in- stance, it is now the fashion for women to be tall, and it is remarkable how many of them contrive to be in the fashion; but there are exceptions, . +o+——_. S$ FACTORY GIRLS. JAPA They Work for Little and Keep Forever at It. From the Chicago Times-Herald. Japanese factory girls are divided into night workers and day workers, the work- ing hours being generally twelve, but when time for tiffin and so forth is taken away the real working hours do not exceed eleven. It is not, however, infrequent for girls, when the business of the mill is pressing, to work extra six hours or 80, and, as on such occasions they are paid extra 8 sen, they are not much averse to subject themselves to such tremendous overwork. The regular holidays for girls are about five or six days per year; also a week beginning from the latter part of the year to the beginning of the next year. And then every week, when machines are polished and cease running, girls can enjoy a few hours’ rest. Though such is the strain which the factory work demands of them, the number who work uninterrupt- edly for a year or even two or three years is not small, and there are some grown-up girls that are in a factory above twenty years. They enjoy a monthly salary of 10 yen, keep a household of their own, and can, as a Japanese gentleman put St, “even afford to maintain their husbands. The sick rate of girls is very small, only four or five girls per day, out of about 1,700 girls employed in one large mill I visited. Generally in €ach mill a regular Physician is on duty, and examines and prescribes for girls who feel themselves in- disposed. When a girl is absent on ac- count of sickness she is allowed a half of the lowest limit of wages; that is, 4 sen a day; but when her confinement has been brought about through the discharge of duties, as for instance, injury sustained from machines, then she is entitled to the full amount of her wages till the time of her recovery, and even a certain amount of consolation gift upon her recovery. The maximum charge for medicine is 3 sen per day, and when, owing to the long confine- ment, the bill of medicines reaches a com- paratively large sum to the means of a girl she is allowed to pay it by install- ments after she has recovered health. But when the factory doctor declares the case incurable then the mill will undertake to pay the expenses which the girl has in- curred on account of sickness, and will also provide her a traveling expense. It is said, therefore, that for one girl returned to her parents in that way her employes incur the loss of 20 yen or so. The majority of cases of illness consist of lung trouble. In some mills the operatives organize what may be called a mutual relief society, with a certain fund, which, in large mills, can obtain as receipts in the form of contribution of officers and operatives a sum of a little less than 250 yen in half a year. In engaging opera- tives factories generally advance to them traveling expenses, to be refunded in two years. But when the girls go through the service of three years, their employes will give them, by way of parting present, one- half the expenses needed in going back. The majority of the girls are engaged through the medium of agents, to whom the charge of 20 yen is to be paid at first by each girl, and also the monthly charge of 2 yen, all through the term, the latter being the charge for acting as ‘security of girls. This respcnsibility undertaken by agents must prove highly convenient for employers, and the latter are, therefore, More inclined to get hands through the me- dium of agents. At present, owing to the activity of various industries in the inter- jor, every mill finds it difficult to secure the services of operatives. +o +—_____ GEN. PIERCE YOUNG'S DARIN His Share in Capturing 2,500 Head of Cattle, From the New York Times. Some years ago the general was relating some of bis experiences in the war. He had been asked especially to tell of the capture of the corral of cattle, which Gea. Grant had brought together as a base of supplies for his army, on the Chickahom- iny, in 1864. This capture was one of the most brilliant and successful raids of the war, in which Gen. Young had played a gallant and conspicuous part; but through- out the narration q casual listener would have thought that he was relating the in- cident to show how magnificently Hampton had conducted the affair. The conception and plan were Hampton's. It was arranged that a picked body of 500 cavalry, under Hempton, should sweep around to Grant's Tesr, capture the corral, and drive the cat- tle into the confederate lines, while Gen. Young slould hold at bay any federal trcops that might come to the support of the corral guard. The scouts had gathered every detail of information needed. They knew the exact location of the cattle, their number, the number and quality of the troops on guard, the relative position of the great army of Grant, and how long it would require for him to dispatch assist- arce tu the guard when attacked. Hamp- ton relied upon Young to keep back the en- tire army, if necessary, until he could get the catile out of reach. As cattle have to be driven slowly,and over fairly good coun- try, it was necessary for Hampton to drive them quite close to the enemy's lines, maix- ing the risk very much greater. Everything worked smoothly until the cattle had becen captured. The negro guard were soon disposed of, and the cor- ral, consisting of 2,500 head of cattle, was shortly being driven toward the confeder- ate camp. ‘To reach the rear of the lines Hampton and Young and all of their troops had been in the saddle day and night, and had ridden fifty miles almost without a halt. Despite the fatigue of horses and men a forced march had to be made by Hampton, while Young and his weary cavalrymen had to face the entire federal line and “draw their fire” until the raid- ers were out of harm’s way. General Yeung accomplished this in most brilliant style. He stretched out his 2,500 troopers into so long a line that it seemed as {f nothing kss than an army division could occupy the space. By rushing from one point to another a considerable body cf bis men and concenirating fire on the fed- eral advance he succeeded in keeping up the deception. The federals “expected mementarily to engage the confederates in force, and 80 advanced cautiously, feeling thelr way. The dashing cavalry officer was playing Napoleonic tactics in minia- ture. Before the army of Grant realized that it was putting forth Its glant strength against a handful of daring horsemen Hampton was safe, and the spectral lines of the grand army of confederates closed up and galloped away, having completed the most reckless foray of the.war. “The federal cattle,” added the general, “formed the basis of our supplies for the rest of our campaign.” ———— A Very Social Whale. From the Portland Press. Capt. Beal of the schooner Charlotte M. Beal. at this port, reports that he was be- calmed for thirty-eight hours, during about twenty-four of which time a whale made things very lively for them. Suddenly the whale, at least sixty feet long, and a fine specimen generally, rose out of the ocean and manifested a decided disposition to cultivate their acquaintance. During sev- eral hours it remained alongside, frequent- ly rubbing its sides agairst the schooner. Capt. Beal tried to take soundings, but his fourteen-pound lead was taken inside by the whale at once. At last, to the great relief of all on board, the whale went down, and when it came to the surface started off rapidly. Capt. Beal is an old sailor, but this was his first experience of the kind. ———_+e+—___ The Ruling Passio From the Detroit Free Press. “My dear,” said Mr. Simple to his wife, “I dreamed last night that I was in heaven looking for you.” “And did you find me, dear?” “No; they told me you were at the bar- gain counter.” a FASHIONS FOR MEN The Proper Neglige Costumes for Mid- summer. Knickerbockers and Scotch Stock- ings Are Still the Proper Combina- tion — Hats and Shirts. From Harper's Bzzar. While midsummer and early autumn are in their full the average man thinks poss!- lly but Httle about feshions or fabrics. He secured his warm-weather wardrobe early in the spring, and he ts a bit conserv- ative about making new investments until the frost and the nipping air positively ferce him. And yet this between-the-sea- sons time is often a period of perplexity. We know that summer is an excuse for wearing all sorts and conditions of garmeats, so long as they are sightly ard comfortable. In the last few years a slow but sure revolu- tion has been effected, and the neglige which was thought proper and fit in the early nineties would not be tclerated now. The source of this change has been the rapid popularity of the transplanted game of golf. It has had also a powerful aid in the wheel, and both combined have given us a most raticnal and smart lounge cos- tume for the season of outing. When golf was first introduced it was thought neces- sary to wear heavy tweeds, Shetland walst- coats, Highland gaiters, sweaters and thickly lined Norfolk jackets. The severe climate of the coast of Scotland, where golf is in its glory, the frequent showers and cold winds, made such garments practical there, but in the temperature which pre- yails from Bar Harbor to the Chesapeake they are decidely ridiculous and uncomfort- able. The latest and most popular golf sults are made from brown Holland or lin- en. They come in three pieces—“knicker” trousers, short sack coat and waistcoat. The last in very warm weather may be discarded. The trousers button below the Knee and are met by Scotch long hose, the tops of which are turned over, but not to show the bare leg, as some golf enthusi- asts would make you suppose 1s the “‘cor- rect thing.” If linens are not liked, then a thin tweod of brown or gray can be worn. And this suit is nct for golf alone, but is adaptable for wheeling, walking, hunt- ing and, in fact, for an all-round neglige. The English, borrowing an East Indian term, call it “mufti,” and now the word is \ery generally used throughout Ameri Morning Costume. Another very pleasing and fashionable morning attire frequently seen at may be also of duck, double breasted. bottoms, and tan or russet shoes worn. A narrow-brimmed, rather high-crowned straw hat with a black ribbon completes this costume. if morning or lounge suit must be worn, then choose a shepherd's plaid in grays or a light brown tweed. These morning sack suits have rather short coats—one would almost call them jackets—with waistcoats, if in the same material, cut in the no-collar style, and trousers a la peg-top. The but- tons should be of horn. The brown linen weistcoats which were imported from Eng- land in the spring have become very pop- ular, and give a little touch of picturesqe- ness to the costume if used instead of those matching the coat and trouser: These three classes of costume comprise the best character of neglige, and although a man would hesitate possibly at going to a garden party or a luncheon in knicker- bockers, he wculd be very well dressed if he wore either of the other two, or the blue serge or always popular and smart flannel lounge. The frock tall hat are out of place, e: dings and very formal affairs, anywhere in the United States from May to ctober. At Newport, which is the most fashionable watering place possibly on the Atlantic coast, the top-hat Is becoming a rarity. At all the hotel hops and at the smaller watering places, except on the occasion of a ball or a formal dinner, the Tuxedo or dinner coat is being worn. A narrow black sik tle has taken the place of the satin. This tie has square ends, and is adjusted in a simple bow. The other novelty of the summer, and one which will be in vogue until Thanksgiving, is the double-breasted white pique waistcoat worn on formal afternoon occasions, with the double- breasted frock coat, and even with lounge sults. This waistcoat is cut moderately V shaped, with a collar, and has a double row of smoked pearl buttons. Shirts. The carnival of color which was prom- ised in the early spring was perhaps nipped in the bad by the inclement May and June. Colcred shirts are almost universal, and those with unstarched bosoms and large buttons have become very popular, but the hues are subdued. the chrome yellows have disappeared. As in the cloths of the season, brown seems to be the favorite color, and stripes are yet the fashionable pattern. Dark blues and bright but not too glaring pinks and laven- ders are also in favor. The collar in vozae is the all-around turn-down, and a small bow siik or of cotton remains the fash- ion, Even these are seen much more in the old favorite dex >, black, rel or green backgrounds, with tiny dots, scents er figures in white. The --otton s are in blues, browns, lavenders and pin to match the shirts. The Madras combination is also fashionable. but, being a trifle glaring, it is not seea on very well- dressed men. hs traw hat has zone, and with it the straw Alpine. A few Pan- ama straws were fashionable in the begin- ning of the season, but the straw bas a black ribben, bit high of ercwn. The russet shoe holds its own, although the black leather is seen more in too much care, and they are not made for walking in the sands or on dirt roads. In England a very popul has been called the university, in honor, possibly, of the races. It is practically the same as is always fashionable in this ecuntry | several kings were bitter enemi the smart watering places consists of white duck or flannel trousers and a black serge sack coat and waistcoat, or this last arti- he trousers should be turned up at the The apple greens and | narrow of brim and a | town, | Black leather shoes in the country require | ir lounge suit | — A KING TO BE THE GROOM. And the Bride a Tailors Daughter= WUll Wed in the Fi New York Letter to the Baltimore American, Fourth avenue is to have a royal wedding in November, when Miss Ella Collin will become the bride of Ou-valea, King of the Jilka Islands, whose subjects are partially reformed cannibals. The Jilkas are in the New Hebrides, about 1,200 miles east of Australia. Miss Collin is a red-haired young wo- man, with eyes as blue as the kind of skies that poets sing. Literature has given noth- ing to express the richness of the redness of her hair. When I saw her today she gave me the privilege of guessing her axe. 4 ligured it at twenty-two, and was abund. anuy smiled upon, ‘The queen to be is the daughter of P. Collin, a tailor, with whom sie lives at No. 37 4th avenue. In religion she is a Lutheran. Otherwise she is at present an ordinary young Americi Ouinalea is in the ¢ weman, too, and is the He will en He expects her to make a hit with his sub- dects, who, being ardent admirers of the setting sun, try to imitate its glorious col- ors by dyeing their own hair with red oc hre and other crude coloring. They revere red hair, and will worship the wealth of it that their new queen will bring them. The only red hair they have in the kingdom is artificial, and’ they will guest of his future father-in-law. vemain here until after the wedding, w he will carry his bride away to Jilkas go down on their knees to any that does not require a fresh coat of paint or two every few weeks. Oumalea, in spite of his royal title, is a king to whom even a populist couldn't ob- Ject. He has no privy purse, and works at the king business for glory. He is not a king from choice He either had to get inte the business or to be made into stew or hash or somet of that sort, and be eaten by his present subjects. In they Would not have hesitated to have ured him raw, While hailed as king in the Jill New York Oumalea 1s plain Mr. In Lexington county, 8. C., wh born thirty years ago, he is Col. John F. Hobbs. When much younger he went to Australia to seek his fortun: wners of ihe sugar plantations the the best work out Hebrides, They used to hire them from their differ- ent Kings, agres to serd them back after the cane was all in. The subjects of the nid of the natives of the New accustomed to eat each other up wh happened to meet. ‘The Australian gove ment made many r-istakes, and sent subje f one king to another king. § may Ss were caten without salt or « Consequently the kings refused to let out ir subjects, unless the Austra antee] to get them back to the! kingdoms. The government ns Kuar- proper ‘d Mr. Hobbs to visit tac New Hebrides to arrange a system by which mistakes might be avoided. On his way over the half rater on which ke was sailing was wrecked, and he was pitched up on the beach, with barrel staves and other debris from the deep. He had landed among the Jilkans. rs be- tore some white men had been landed there in a similar way and had been with considerable difficulty, on ac sted unt of the salt in their Systems. The Jilkans do not like flesh that has been fattened on salt. The king saw Hobbs and adopted him. He had several broils on with neighbor- irg kings at the time, and he and his war- riors used to go out and have hand-to-hand fights with the enemy. Most of these broils were draws. Hobbs taught them some of the gold ick tricks of civil tion, ameng them being that of strategy. One day he sent a handful of warriors out to meet the enemy. With a much greater ferce he hid behind a convenient corne’ The enomy saw the handful of warriors and attacked them. The warriors fi pursued by the enthusiastic enemy. Then the army behind the corner fell on the cuemy and gave them a terrible thrash- ing. Ti Strategy gave Mr. Hobbs great and when the king died he was clect- €d_to sit upon the throne. He has spent most of the time since jn ligg. He has brcught much pros- ity to his subjects, and has partially converted them from cannibalism. They sull insist, however, on eating Chinamen and other persons who do not eat salt. King Hobbs has known the Collin fam- ily for some years. The courtship in which he has won the promise of Miss Leen a long one, but cne without She told me this morning that the wed- ding would be held in Novembe She said: “The king is a Lutheran, too, and the ceremony will probably be’ performed by a minister of our church, It will be a quiet affair. Maybe he will bring some of his subjects over to witness jt, but I cannot tell yet. We will probably go to his king- dom on our bridal tour She said, however, that they.would prob- ably not linger arovnd the throne long. “You sce,” she said, “he bas not many te to look after. He is king ourse, but he gets no salary for reigning, and it is quite likely that he will settle aha go into business in New York, only going over to see how things are running in his domains occasionally.” sat oe — Sex of Trotley Cars. From the Electrical Review, The silly season is on, and it is to possess a special intensity this year. A large number of electrical men are more than usually affected, and several have de- veloped soft spots in their craniums of really alarming proportions. One of the afflicted of these stopped a F Broadway on one of those sweltering last week, and remarked, excitedly: “Have you heard the latest?” a man and his wife and their son were waiting at a street corner in Brook- lyn for a trolley car. Presently they saw one coming. The ‘Here he comes! The woman said she" comes!’ The boy said, ‘Here Now, who of the three was “Well, who?” asked the Review man, as he took’a firm grip on his umbreila “The man,” replied the silly one. “Why?” \said the Review man, as he stepped back a pace and got re to swing his weapon. “Because it happered to be a mail The umbrella swished through the air, but the gibbering idiot saw it in time, r dodged, and dashed off, cackling to himself. From Life. She—“It seems rather hard, dear, trip,” “But, darling, you will never know the difference. it will be just like living in a Pullman car.” that you can’t afford to take me on a wedding In the little flat I have engaged