Evening Star Newspaper, May 9, 1896, Page 18

48 MILLINERY IN A MAZE OF BLOSSOMS. A WHITE SEASON Even the Bicycle Riders Are Thus Daintily Clad. GETTING READY FOR THE OUTING PERIOD Miracles of Millinery as Are Now Displayed. HOT WEATHER IDEAS T PRESENT, GOLF is the word, and thrice as many wo- nm as ever went round the course at St. Andrews or Mor- tistown are getting unto themselves, or have already, got golfing suits which shall be fit for gen- eral outing purposes. Plaids are by all means the favorite prescription of the doetors of golfing fashions, and next to up with bits of red or strong color. The skirt is always short, about bicycling length; and that is a comfort. Indeed a golfing suit can be used for bicycling, and vice versa, to such good purpose that it is no wonder so many of the former are made for non-golfers who do really and truly “bike.” And that reminds me: One of the first things I saw on getting back to New York was a bicycle girl in the park, tightly cor- seted and “clad in white samite, mystic, wonderful;” whereof the mystery and the wonder were these that she looked not only picturesque, which she was, but cool, which she was not, and comfortable, which was absurdly tmposs‘ble. And how her great white picture hat stuck to her head, flap- ping not nor falling, was one of the marvels of millinery, which are as the sands of the sea in number. Yet, it is-a white season. White from head to foot, from the shade hat to the shoes, inclusive. Duck is the dress ma- cerial cut in ample folds. The hats to match are of dead white straw trimmed with pale pink or blue ribbon and high white plumes with silver buckles and of sheli shape, coming well over the eyes in front while sportively kicking up be- “Leaving white, a wilderness of hat tints are to choose from. Black of course is a | favorite with the possessors of a certain dramatic type of brunette beauty. Loose | plaited golden straw, ecru or cream lace, | mauve straw, cream paillason are favor- ite grounds, and there are tiny toques com- posed all of roses sewn on invisible wire bases. Feather and ribbon trimming in combination and plenty of lace adorn the hats of tcday; the stuffed bird or beast abomination is no more, for which relief much thanks. ' Surprising is the popularity of a little toque, as I suppose one must call it, whose shape is very iike that of the old turban of hated memory. The trimming differs, howevef. It no longer closely hugs the hat’s brim, but, as in the example of one coarse close plaited straw, consists first of a band of quilled veiling about the crown, then of a big chou of roses or other flow- ers thereon and finally of a tall bow of wide ribbon. Let the straw be cream or ecru, the veiling creamy white edge with a tiny red band, the chou of pink roses and the ribbon bow creamy white with a slight red band at elther edge, and the combination is pretty enough for the shape of the hat. A more dashing arrangement is in green and black with a touch, a gleam, of gol- den yellow, and this is one of the favorite color combinations of the spring. « Specialty of the Seaso The edged ribbon, the edgirg not always in a stronger color, is a specialty of the season. And when such wide ribbons are used as in some of the recent examples, the edging certainly adds to the appear- ance, if not to the fact, of strength. The crdinary veiling with point iace edging is a case where the appearance is not decep- tive. Such veiling ts very pretty worn in the ordinary way, but it is a momentary fad to work it up, fluting or quilling or otherwise, into the trimming of bonnets and hats. Curious, by the way, how sel- com one hears the word bonnet nowadays. It_is possibly too sedate. They have in Bermuda a beautiful hat straw, made of braided strips of bleached palmetto leaf. It is among the “most beau- tiful materials I have ever se2n, but like most Bermuda industries it lacks the “boom” which a stronger commercial in- stinct gives, and the beautiful braid or plait, fine, yet wonderfully strong, and woven in beautiful open designs, is placid- ly sewn year after year into the British bath-tub shape seen in steel engravings of “The Morning Walk,” A.D. 1837. The hats are hopeless, but why might not the braid be imported—and shaped by northern ex- perts into the modes of the present day? I see how such fine and elastic mesh of cpen plaits would look in picture hats of creamy white, with ostrich plumes and big white ribbon bows and handfuls of pink roses thrown at them and allowed to fall somewhere upon the crown. Secret of the Hat. This touch of accident, this last added rote of whimsy caprice, is the keystone of a French hat or toque and the secret of its success. When a hat is finished, balanced, correct, classical In its lines, it takes life too seriously and falls to attract or inte: est. When a hat has reached this danger- ous stage of perfect but uninteresting beauty, your Paris milliner, head on one side, coneiders how she may add @ dash of piquancy, a touch of coquyetry, which shall say ir hat language to all behold- ers: “After all, I'm only a hat.” It 1s for this reeson and this purpose that the best millirers in the world have so persistently clung to some perpendicular form of crnament, a pompon, an aigrecte or, as row, a perpendicular bow of wide ribbon alternating in about equal propor- tions with the twin plumes uprising from the crown like bickering scimitars. Ho, all ye milliners of Saxon strain, give heed to this example! Grass linen is clearly indicated, as the doctors say, for the heated term which is upon us. Maize taffeta is a material to be much used this year. It will bear decoration either in black and green or in rose and pink. ‘The combination dress of iace or other fllmsy stuff over a firmer fourdation“is a prime favorite. Say Indfa muslin over taffeta Urderwear has gone foolish sgain—and pretty—with flounce, tuck, ruffle, gather and insertion. ELLEN OSBOR? re THE FRENCH FRY IN TWO WAYS. They Are So Distinet That All Cooks Should Understand Them. From the London Queen. There are two methods of frying known to experts, rather inelegantly named in English “wet frying” and “dry frying,” or in French by the terms sauter and frire. eth are excellent when used suitably; wken improperly employed, the result Is, to say the least of it, unfortunate, and leads to the waste of good material. The reason why our cooks so often fail to fry success- fully is that they “dry fry” everything, having no notion whatever of wet frying. To sauter, or dry fry, is to cook food in a smail quantity of hot fat and in a shallow | ren. Omelettes, pancakes, liver and bacon, chopped vegetables, cut small, are samples of the sort of food which may be correctly cooked thus. Small pieces of meat end fish may also be saute, and, when carefully dene, are very good, although it is open to question whether they would not be muca more satisfactory if fried in a larger pan, vith a more generous proportion of fat. When saute, articles should be in constant motion, owing to the pan being jerked to keep them from sticking; and they should be turned, so that they may be equally ccoked on both sides. fry is to immerse in hot fat, and it is of which cooks ere so and which first 3 The frying. have plenty of fat; cover the food ail over, so that the heat that is, to shall b conveyed to every part alike above or need it be supposed that jantity of fat thus is extrava- on the contrary, economical, the fat can be used again and aguin. e small quantity of fat that is melted in a fryirgpan gets burnt, and is always thrown out, whereas fat properly cared for reed never be thrown out; it is strained free from any little pieces of bread or bat- ter that may have got into it, is washed when dirty, and can be constantly renew- ed, little” pieces of fat being melted or drained in it, thus keeping up its buik and also its quality; it is never allowed to burn, because it is never left on the hot plate a moment after it has done its work. People who understand frying treat fat Tost respectfully, looking upon it as a household treasure. Not only should the fat used in frying be perfectly dry, but the article to be fried should be dry also. “Nothing {ries crisp that is wet" is a rule in frying. It is by Way of insuring dryness that so many peo- ple flour food that is to be fried just before plunging it into the fat. Usually, also, the food is dipped in batter or egged and breaded before frying. It is well to remem- Ler that egging and breading should be done some time, flouring immediately be- fore frying. To prevent accidents, be care- ful that the pan used for frying is not more than half full of fat. Aiso, when a frying basket Is used (a great ail to suc- cessful frying) it should not be allowed to touch the bottom of the Kettle: neither should the articles in the basket touch each other. Should an accident occur when fry- ing, the best thing to do Is to throw a strip of carpet or a thick cloth on the flame. With many people the first impulsa would be to use water, but this would create steam, which might do as much 1arm as the flame. Fat for frying should, we know, hot before the food to be fried is plunged into ; but it ts requisite to have a clear idea of what is meant by this. The ordinary domestic test is a very good one. Throw a piece of bread into the fat. If it browns immediately, the fat is hot enough; if it remains pale, the fat needs to heat a little longer. And, it may bo added, the smatier the article to be fried the hotter sh ine te, loiter should be It cannot be too strongly insisted wy that for successful frying the temperatare of the fat is a matter of supreme import- ance. When fried articles come to table broken, sodden, uneven and mottled-lock- ing, the probability is that they have been cooked in too ttle fat. When they come to table greasy, the fat has not been hot enough. A good brown color and a crisp dry surface are the marks of good frying. oe _— A Baby Hyena. New York Letter to Pittsbucg Dispatch. The bity hyena s the star attraction at the Central Park Zoo. A hyena in infancy 1s cute, bright-eyed, soft, pudgy and kit- tenish. But it grows out of this in time, and this frolicsome little creature will, a few years hence, be as villainously ugly as he is now delightful. He is a brosuishe hued creature, with a black muzzle, about as tall and as fat as a Newfoundland pup- py. His age is three months-a fact due to the vigilance of the keeper, as her “ma” has shown heretofore a disposition to eat her offspring, having in this unnatural manner disposed. of half a dozen young- € at would have bee 2 ter to the latest arrival YOtRer and eis- ———ee___ No Amateur Wanted. From the Detrott Free Press. She—“Are you sure I am the first woman you ever loved?" He—“I swear it.” She—“Then you may go. obtained some experience, again.” After you have come to me A HANGING. VOTES AT Former Ulinots Candidate Scores a Point Before a Senffold. Wosh. Cor. Chicago Tribune. Representative Hitt told a good story tl- lustrative of early times in Illinois when candidates for state offices took advantage of every opportunity to present their claims before the voters of that state. “This particular incident,” said Mr. Hitt, “occurred during the administration of my father as sheriff of his county. ‘There had been a dispute, probably of a political char- acter, between a couple of shoemakers and cne of them wes cut so badly with a knife that death resulted from his Injuries. After a lengthy trial his slayer was convicted and sentenced to be hanged on a certain day. “This occasion was seized upon by a num- ber of the country people to make a holl- day, and excursions were organized to go to the county seat for the purpose of wit- nessing the execution, A knowledge of this fact was conveyed to the governor of Illinois, who was a candidate for renomina- tion. He thought this would be a good op- portunity for him to make his appearance as well as a speech before the crowd, set- ting forth his claims for renomination. “Meanwhile a movement had been inau- furated looking to the reprieve of the con- demned man and petitions were in circula- tion throughout the crowd, when the gov- ernor was escorted to a stand which had been erecied not far from the scaffold. “Preparations for the execution were go- ing ahead, and the prisoner was sitting with his clerical adviser not far from the scaffold. Without wasting any time the governor proceeded to enlighten his au- dience on every conceivable topic which he thought would tend to his advantage, but he made no reference whatever to the prep- arations for the execution, which were going on in his presence. “His attention, however, was invited par- ticularly to the scene by an occurrence at the foot of the steps leading up to the stand from which he was speaking. A couple of rustics, evidently just married, and on their wedding journey, were among the most in- terested of the governor's audience. While listening with open-mouthed astonishment to the pearls of wisdom falling from the mouth of the great man above them the gtoom was approached by a deputy sheriff, who was circulating the reprieve petition. When it was made known to the country- man that his signature was wanted to the paper to be presented to the governor he felt highly honored at such a distinction, and was about to do as requested, when his wife tugged at his arm and said: ‘John I don’t think I would sign that paper. Just think how far we have come to see this man hung. If you put your name to that document there will be no hanging, and it will be such a disappointment! “This speech was plainly audible to the governor, and it recalled him to his sur- roundings, for he made a great hit by an- nouncing from the platform the reprieve of the poor wretch who was quaking in bodily fear only a few feet distant from the spot where he was standing. So the anx- iety of the bride to witness an execution undoubtedly had its effect in securing the object for which petitions had been circu- lated throughout the crowd. ——_-e+____ Pheasants and Thunder. From Nature. The effect of thunder, or the firing of cannon, on pheasants is very curious; either of these sounds starts the cock birds crowing as if In deflance. Mr. G. T. Rope, writing to the “Zoologist,” says that at a place between five and six miles distant from the garrison town of Colchester he has heard pheasants close to him echoing each repo-t of the artillery practicing there, and has on many occasions noticed the same thing. The crowing sounds more like the answer to a chailenge than the ex- pression of fear. Mr. J. ¥. Harting points out that the observation is not new. Gil- bert White remarked a century ago that the pheasants in his neighborhood crowed when big guns were firal at Portsmouth and the wind was blowing from that direc- tion; and, says Mr. Hartiog, Charles Water- ton also, in his “Essays on Natural Hi tory,” makes the following remarks on the subject: “The pheasant crows at all seasons on retiring to roost. It repeats this call often during the nizht, and azain at early dawn; and frequeatly in the day- time, on the appearanze of an enemy, or at the report of @ gun, or during a thunder storm.” ——+e+. Me Fulfilled His Contract. From Tid-Bits. Some time since a well-known barrister, on taking possession of a house in a fash- donable West End row, unwittingly bound himself to paint the whole exterior of the dwelling. On finding what an expense he had made himself liable for, he remon- strated with the landlord, ‘who stmply smiled and declared that the bond must be fulfilled. Thereupon the wily barrister caused the whole front of the house to be painted in strips of vivid green, yellow and pink, greatly to the chagrin of his fashion- able neighbors, who were tenants of the same landicrd. In vain iid the landlord storm; the barrister tenant threatencd un- less the bond were canceled to have the back of the house painted like a rainbow, With huge black spots covering it at in- tervals. Result—Agrzement canceled. MAKING FINE CHINA, How the Work is Done in Worcester, : England. From the Boston Transcript. Close beside Worcester cathedral are the ugly workshops and tall chimneys of the porcelain works. When we watch the thrower molding on his magic wheel the plastic clay we are filled with wonder at his skill and ask ourselves whence came the clay which takes so readily any form the potter wills. The flint boulders found upon the plains of Brittany in France, feldspar from Cornwall and Sweden, bones from America, vesides other things, all pay tribute. These unlikely constituents are calciied and then ground exceedingly fine in mills. The grinding takes from twelve hours to six days. It {s a sight worth see- ing, those powerful mills racing round the deep trough (made out of stone from Derbyshire) welghted with heavy blocks, churning eaclr material, for each Is ground separately, into a thick white cream. When finished, the liquids are strained through fine hair sieves, and all particles of iron withdrawn by means of magnets. ferent ingredients are then mixed together in proper proportions and kneaded into the required consistency, and then the clay is| ready for the thrower. The art of molding clay has become much more exact since the employment of plaster of paris molds. After the thrower, with the help of his wheels, has roughly shaped the clay into what is term- ed the “lining,” it is taken off the wheel, and put into a plaster of paris cast, which, in turn, is placed upon the whirling wheel, and the “lining” is then deftly molded to the exact shape. As plaster of paris ab- sorbs moisture quickly the lining is soon firm enough to be handled. It is then “turned” like ordinary wood or metal, and has handles, which have been molded in plaster of pai fixed by the same clay. It was always a puzzle to our minds how the handles were induced not.only to stick on to the jugs and cups, but to bear the weights of the same cups and jugs when full of liquid. The porcelain is then ready to be baked. For this it is packed in fire- proof baking dishes called ‘“‘seggars” and supported on every side by powdered cal- cined flint. These seggars are made to fit exactly one upon the other, although they are of different sizes and depths, and they are ar-anged in columns side by side in the oven. This oven is then bricked up and eight fires are l'ghted and kept burning for ferty-eight hours, night and day. The oven takes four days to cool and then the contents are unpacked and are ready for a variety of processes. Most of the china is glazed, an operation requiring care and skill. The articles are bathed in the Mquid glaze—a muddy look- ing broth—and the greater part of the superfluous glaze shaken off. But it is impossible to free them perfectly; besides, the fingers leave marks which have to be removed after the glaze has been dried in a hot room. Women and girls are employ- ed for this work. The ivory glaze is a deli- cate salmon pink before it is baked, the white a dark drab.. After it is glazed, the pottery, for the second time, is packed in seggars and baked. After this the colored china is painted and baked again. The gold is also baked in. Few people know that the gilt on china is the purest gold that can be bought. It is ground with mercury and turpentine into a black looking paint and applied with a fine camel’s hair pencil. Boys are trained for this work from fourteen years of age, it being nearly impossible for older People to acquire the accuracy of eye and hand necessary. It is a great drawback to the production of artistic pottery that the coloring 1s totally different in the paint, to the result after burning. For instance, gold paint is black before and dull gold afterward; the brightness is produced by polishing it with an agate. Other colors are obtained from metallic oxides; iron gives red, cobalt, blue, etc. An ingenious tiger trap.—Fltegende Blatter, The dif- | LAND AND THE BOERS, Some British Opinions as» Gathered From Press Utterances. From the Literary. Digest. There is no longer any reason to doubt that a war against British rule in South Africa will be Waged before the end of the nineteenth century unless the British gov- ernment can resist the British people. The rising of Matatefe has had most unexpect- ed results. It Was, at first, looked upon as really serlous,.and even chauvinistic En- slish papers spoke of the advisability of ac- cepting President Kruger’s offer to assist in quelling ¥.'\But subsequent reports give color to the German. view that the rising is to be used as a cloak for the landing of troops which :could be used against the Transvaal. The refusal of President Kruger to go to England: 1s looked upon as an in- sult by many Englishmen, and with very few exceptions the British papers clamor for annexation of the Transvaal. The Morning Post, London, says: “President Kruger must be shown that | England will not allow any prevarication, while if the Boers are determined to fight, it were well they should understand that, although we have no wish for bloodshed, should they take up arms against the su- zerain power they will be met with a force differeat from that which they have Aerto been called upon to face.” The Sheffield Telegraph says Mr. Cham- berlain must “transmute his brave words into deeds, and that quickly, else the coun- try will show him that its patience is ex- 8 The Scotchman, Glasgow, says if the Boers had not beaten Jameson the Matabeles would have remained quiet. But Jameson left for Johannesburg on account of Boer misrule, therefore the Transvaal must be annexed. Letters said to be written by Englishmen in the Transvaal, reiterating the story of the hundreds of Boers killed in the fight with Jameson, are published in full; but Viedkomet Bodenstein’s offer to Pay $5,000 for proofs of such stories is ig- nored. “I know a spot where twenty aro buried,” says one of these writers. Money, London, asks that Portugal be forced to sell Delagoa Bay to England, ac- cording to treaty rights. Every English paper ignores the fact that Germany dis- putes England’s supposed rights in this matter, and hopes that Delagoa Bay will soon be annexed to shut the Transvaal from the sea for good. ————+e+. MISHAP TO A SMUGGLER. A Cab Runs Over Him and Betrays an Ingenious Device. Paris Dispatch to the London Telegraph. Near one of the gates leading into Paris an old man of stout proportions was seen @ day or two ago wending his way, wher a cab, driven at great speed, approached, and, as the man paid no attention to the warning cry of the Jehu, he was knocked down, and the vehicle passed over his body, to the consternation of the Spectators. A crowd gathered round the venerable individual, who lay on the ground, not in @ pool of blood, but in one of ofl. The hero of this misadventure, who had only been slightly stunned by the shock, soon rose to Bis feet, with profuse thanks for all the sympathy and compassion which his accl- dent had elicited, and then, disregarding further offers of assistance, began to shuffle off as fast as his legs could carry him. One of the eye witnesses of this curious scene went up to an employe of the octrol and gave an account of the episode, upon which the official, running after the victim of the accident, extended to him a polite invitation to rest in his offes. “I assure you that I am ‘not hurt,” ex- claimed the old ‘gentleman, who displayed Sreat anxiety tb 'take himself off. “So much tHe’ bette: replied the em- Ploye, “but I want to have a little talk with you all thé Same.” ~ Some.gentle force was required to induce the corpulent Uné to enter the office, but once there he ‘Was made to undress, when mystery was soon explained. He had be- tween his walstcoat and his shirt a skin receptacle whith was capable of containing from six to seveh Nters of liquid. On this particular occaston tt had been filled with oil, and, while it Rad saved th> bearer from severe injury, ft ‘had betrayed him, and he was removed! ta the depot at the prefecture Police amid the laughter of the peopl who had witnadses the incident, PeoPle A quantity of teceptactes of the kind de- scribed have been found at his dwelling, and another individual has already been ar- rested on suspicion of being an accomplice. It need scarcely be added that the oil was thus introduced into Paris with the object of evading the octrol dues. As a matter of fact, all sorts of devices are employed by persons who make a specialty of this fraud, but it is not often that a culprit is detected in these tragi-comic circumstances, —+ eo The Last Resoure Fiom the New York Weeldy. Desperate Husband—“Do you mean to say you would object to a divorce from such a woman as I have described?” Minister—“I_ would. In our church mar- riage can be dissolved by death only.” “Very well. Please direct me to the near- "est gun shcp,” he was found t0’be almost a skeleton. The‘ STAR, SATURDAY. MAY 9, 1896¢--TWENTY-FOUR PAGE FOR JUNE BRIDES What a Woman Wears When She Says “I Will!” ARTICLES IN THE BRIDAL OOTEI? Bridesmaids’ Gowns May Match, but Variety is More Elegant. GIRL GRADUATES T HERE IS NO REA- son to suppose that ‘the blushing groom who names the day this last leap year of the century will choose any other season than the monta ef roses for his wedding day. Perhaps it is not fair Ff to assume that all i the June weddings if are leap year wed- ~ - dings — indeed, it is more thaa likely that those which are solemnized in midsummer were orissinally contracted for before the dawn of '96—b all the same, tradition has it that privi- leges may be reversed every four years, and we, therefore, decide that they are so. But. as I have said, this will probably not change the marriage season, when all the world is a-bloom with roses and sweet bridesmaids; and June will be as merry with weddings as she is radiant with girl graduates. Indeed, the girls are not few who will merely exchange their simple commencement for more elaborate nuptial gowns, and thus, as it were, do up educa- tion and matrimony in one week and done with it. Both the gradvation and the wedding gowns have been planned together, how- ever, if the bride is to leap at once out of college into matrimony. The graduating dress is growing simpler in proportion as the number of college students increases, for the sentiment grows more and more democratic as the average student grows poorer. So considerate do college girls be- come that the rich ones refuse to take ad- vantage of their wealth to outshine their less fortunate sisters. This year the gowns | will be simpler than ever before, if such a thing be possible. } As if to compensate for the lack of adornment on the graduating gown, the | wedding dress is made mere elaborate. In | neither case is a decolletage permissible. If the wedding takes place in the evening, | the guests may dress in as elaborate even- | ing dress as they see fit, but the bride has | her collar up to her chin, and even higher | in some cases. | The Materials Used. The mst elegant materials for a wed- ding dress are satin de Lyons or white faille, but it isn’t every bride who can af- ford such ,luxury. Some content them- selves with white silk or cheap satin and tulle. Others are married in their travel- ing dresses, but since it has become allow- able for people in moderate circumstances to disperse with the wedding tour and the traveling dress is itself superfluous, the wedding dress is a necessity, and the bride#® assuming, however misguidedly, that mar- riage comes but once in a lifetime, goes for all her father is worth to get the very best wedding dress that can be had. The bare material for the gown of gowns is more expensive than formerly, because it takes more yards to make the skirt. Twenty-two yards of satin is not too much for a tall and stately bride. Then there is | the veil, which may be mace of tulle, cost- ing from $1.25 to $2.25 a yard, or real lace at any pr’ce. The veil is f-ur yards wide to start with, and four yards in length should be all that the state fest bride should require. It is draped cornerwise, with a -crown or tlara like arrangement about the head. A small detachable veil is removed by the maid of honor and laid on the altar at the conclu- sion of the ceremony. At some weddings the bridesmaids wear short veils reaching to the waist, in which case they usually dress alike. Sometimes two dress in one color and two or three in another. Where there are many brides- maids, as at a ceremony where nine dam- sels attended the bride, they arrange them- | selves in threes or fours, according to the whole number—though odd numbers are considered preferable because they are tra- | ditionally luck: After all, it is really more | elegant and in better taste to have no set military uniform for the members of the | wedding party. Handsome costumes of | Dresden silk or elaborately trimmed gla taffetas are correct, or even fluffy combi- nations of tulle or chiffon with satin are allowable, though tulle and satin rightfully belong exclusively to the bride. The Wedding Hat. It is difficult to define a wedding hat as distinguished from any of the rest of the much-trimmed headgear that is worn now. Big, white roses, orchids, tulle, foliage, pink rosebuds and paradise aigrettes are a few of the trimmings that may be combin- ed with immense bows of ribbon on one hat. It 1s enough to say that there never was a better year for weddings, so far as millinery is concerned. Almost any hat is a wedding hat. For ordinary wear, if one cannot afford the perishable tulle she may substitute frills of accordion pleated mull, which is as short-lived as the other, is also cheaper and therefore more easily replaced. Another temptation to extravagance in wedding paraphernalia is the dainty under- clothing hung up to tempt the frivolous- minded woman who has not entirely su: cumbed to the severity of bicycle bloomers and jersey sweaters. In proportion to the rest of one’s wedding finery a suit of pret- ty and elegant underclothing, tncluding chemise, drawers, night dress and skirt, can be had made to order comparatively cheap. Thirty-five dollars will pay for a set of fine nainsook trimmed with Valen- ciennes lace and insertion. White or Dres- den silk is preferred by many for the skirt. A graceful combination of chemise, cor- set cover and short skirt fs called the “Marguerite.” It looks very much like a child’s dress with low neck and ro sleeves. The waist is short, empire style, and is drawn in to fit the figure with a satin rib- bon. The skirts are valled ankle length, but do not reach far below the knees. This style is very cunning and especially becom- ing to a short figure. About Underwear. The rew dimity underwear is dainty and has a bridal look about it. One made of blue would do very well for the “something blue” which is ccnsidered necessary to the4 bridal toilet. The same material is used for night dresses, chemises end other un- derwear, and on account of its cheapness it would serve for a sert of second best suit in the bridal trousseau. Wedding stockings are white silk and can be bought for from $2.50 to almost any price, according to the amount of embroid- ery used to ornament them. Wedding shoes are really slippers, or at | upon little sufferers. ——— Highest of all in Leavening Power— Latest U.S. Gov't Report Royal Baking Powder most, ties, made of white kid or satin. They cost from $3.50 up. Gloves for brides are of white suede reaching to the elbows, and by the same token the sleeves of the gown are usually short, or if not, they are quite tight below the elbow. One of the prettiest presents for a bride is a souvenir scrap book for the preserva- tion of pieces of her bridal gowns. Each page is decorated with some dainty design and an inscription added appropriate to the particular gown which is represented there. white linen or silk bindings at $ and $10 each, but they may be made by careful hands. The inscription in one book for the page meant to preserve a sample of the wedding dress reads: “This is the gown in which she stood, When she went to the altar and said she would.” The form of invitations to weddings does not vary much from year to year. It is perhaps a litle more elegant to “request the honor of your presence” than the “pleasure of your company,” or even to “invite you to be present.” Envelopes are oblong and not souare. Otherwise, weddings are very much “go- as-you-please affairs,” in spite of all their pomp ard ccremony. Any maid who can devise some new and original way to be married is admired for her individuality, provided she carries it off with eclat and is enough of a leader to set the fashion. But it must be admitted that the limita- ticns of matrimonial bliss begin to show themselves during the preparations for the nuptial ceremonies, and the brides who succeed in being original are few. —___- e+ TRAINED MOTHERHOOD. The Maternal Instinct and the to Have It Intelligent. From the New York Dispatch. In hinting that there is anything wrong about motherhood as it now exists I am conscious that I go counter to one of the strongest opinions of the human race. It is claimed by the majority that motherhood is an instinct, and that, as such, it is suffi- cient to its purpose and needs no education. Need | I shail try to prové that civilized mother- hood is much more than an instinct, and needs the highest education. It is neces- sary for the mother to understand human- ity culture, and also to know that the main duties of motherhood come before the child | is born. Our idea of motherhood is largely the care of children in sickness, the waiting but when mothers understand their business, children will not be little sufferers. Scientists calmly claim it as a necessity that four children should be born in every family if the human ra is not to diminish in numbers, because fift | per cent of all children die before they are five years old. Of what? Mainly of pre- ventable diseases. Who should prevent them? Their mothers. But do we have any <cnvocations of mothers to consider mea- sles? Mothers take it for granted that children must be sick, and devote their strength to nursing them. All that one-half of the race can do in its great business of enild rearing is to lose half our children! We are continually told of the superi mothers of great men. If the superiority of the few great men is due to the great- ness of their mothers, to what is the in- feriority of the many small men due’ If women are responsible for the status of the race, they are responsible for the gambling, drinking, stealing men, as well as for Washington and Lincoln. Motherhood needs to be educated. But who reads books about the care of children? The school- ma’ams. Again, in thousands of years ought not mothers to have learned the best way to dress a baby? Yet the average mother stil clothes her baby in a long dress, in spite of instinct. The baby trips upon it— we have all seen them. The “instinct” of some "nothers has taught them to wind up and swathe infants. Other mothers do not do it. Which is right? Some mothers tie up a new baby in a flannel bandage, and then walk the fleor with a erying child and say all children have to have the colic for three months. Any of us would have the colic under such circumstances. Woman's position, at once above and be- lcw, with “bosses” above them, and chil- dren and servants below them, has been the most trying possible. No one can main- tain exact justice under such conditions. Men have been useful to each other, but women have not, until lately. Women enter upon the greatest function of life without one day’s preparation, and their mothers let them, because they do not recognize it as a business. We do not let a man practice as a doctor or druggist, or anything else that Involves issues cf Ife and death, without training and certifi- cates; but the life and death of the whole human race are placed in the hands of ut- terly untrained young girls. I am not dis- paraging the noble devotion of our present mothers. I know how they struggle ard toil. When that tremendous force of moth- er love is made intelligent, fifty per cent of our children will not die before they are five years old, and those that srow up will be better men and women. A woman will no longer be attached sol2ly to one little group, but will be also a member of the community. She will not neglect her own on that account, but will be becter to them, stronger and of more worth as a mother. So Much to Learn. So much to learn! Old Nature’ ways Of glee sae with rapt amaze To study, probe and paint—brown earth, Salt sea, blue heavens, their tilth and dearth. Mirds, grasses, trees—the natural things: That throb or grope or poise on wings, So much to learn about the world Of men and women! We are hurled Through interstellar space a while Together, then the sob, the smile ds silenced, and the solemn spheres Whirl lonesomely along the years. So much to learn from wisdom’ Of early art and ancient lore, So many stories treasured long On temples, tombs and columns strong, The legend ‘of old eld, so large And eloquent from marge to marge. So much to learn about one's self: The fickle soul, the nimble clf That masks as me; the shifty will, The sudden valor and the thrill: The shattered shaft, the broken force it seems supernal in its source. And yet the days are brief. The Shuts down before the waking eye Has bid good-morrow to the sun: ‘The light drops low, and Life 1s done. bye, good night, the star lamps bern: So brief ‘the time, so much to learn! —RICHARD BURTON. ———+ e+ Would Have Guessed as Much. From the Chicago Post. “She married a blind man,” he said, evi- dently admiring her self-sacrifice. “I would have guessed that he was blind if he married her,” she returned, evidently not at all impressed with the self-sacrifice idea. ———--+00_. On Their Guard. From the Philadelphia Record. Hax—"I always shake hands with Skinner to keep him from picking my pockets.” Jax—“So do 1; and I always count my fingers afterward. These scrap books come in either | <== HOUSEHOLD HINTS It is all very well to take the children out airing, but don’t let your maternal pride in Dorothy’s pretty arms or Ronald's fat lege lead you to bare them to the sun and alr just yet, for it grows cool toward evening, and five minutes in a cool breeze might give the children their death of cold. It is best to be on the safe side; it will save you @ doctor's bill and much anxiety. Lemonade is so cooling and refreshing, but it is not easy to make quickly. Have Some in reserve. Squeeze the juice from a dozen lemons into a glass jar. Strain to free of sees and pith and pour into the juice in the jar all the sugar it will soak up, then set in a cool place. A tablespoon- ful of this in a glass of ice water is de- lictous. It will keep a week in a cool place. A single seed in it will ruin the flavor. Sometimes beds get inhabited without the consent of even a careful housekeeper. The animals carry in clothes so easily that they may be looked for anywhere. One careful Martha has a machine oil can which She loads with gasoline, and uses plentifully about bedstead, mattresses and clothing. It is sure death to any kind of vermin, and will not soil the most delicate ma- terial. The odor is its worst feature, and that soon passes away, but it must not be used where the Nght is burning, or where there is a fire. Try a teaspoonful of cornstarch to a cup- ful of salt before filling the salt shakers. You will find that the damp weather will not affect the salt in the least. Mix well. Fresh bread well toasted over a slow fire and eaven dry is much better for a delicate Stomach than the fresh bread or hot bis- cuit. Every girl who reaches the age of sixteen and who is dependent upon her father or some relative for ber living should have an allowance. It may be very small, still give jit to her, and say to her that ft must last her till that time @ month hence. It will be but a short time till you will find the girl becoming something of a financier. It will make her calculating, careful and she will buy with greater judgment, since she knows that there is no possibility of “coaxing” more out of her * ” It is well to ex- ercise a little oversight of the spending of the money at first, but you will not have to keep that up very long Keep the glue pot handy, and when a piece df furniture shows a loose round or a shaky joint, mend it at once with some glue and set aside for a day to harden. An excelient second to the glue pot is varn can and good brush. It is sur- prising what a woman can accomplish in the way of garnishing wp old furniture. It isn’t hard work, either. If you need | new cushions, beautiful art cretonnes and silkalines are selling for a song, and a few yards of these used in covering the old cushions will give your neat room quite an up-to-date air. Have a care about the cleanliness of your refrigerator. They very easily become fouled, and the servant who likes to clean one isn’t born yet. Every morning of the world the refrigerator and ice box should be wiped out clean and dry with a clean cloth that has been dipped in ammonia water. Once a week a thorough scalding should be administered, using boiling wa- ter with ammonia fn it. It is impossible to use an ice box constantly and not drop tiny specks of cream or butter or of meat, and within a few hours decay sets in and the odor taints everything in the box. The very dampness of the box becomes slimy within twelve hours. If you will watch this you will find that you can keep the milk sweet fully six hours longer, to say nothing of the wholesomeness of all the other things in the box. Don't go about cleaning the silver on your tortoise shell combs as though you were cleaning brass candlesticks, because you will ruin the shell. You must brush the ailver very carefully with a chamois- skin pad, and do not touch the shell mean- time. Make a pad by taking a stick with a pointed end, to which fasten a bit of cot- ton. Over that put a piece of chamois and then rub the silver with that. It is quite a distressing matter for some women to get a new pair of boots wet, be- cause it almost ruins them unless they are very careful. Get the shoes off before they begin to dry, and rub them with a flannel cloth till you have got most of the moisture out of them. Saturate the cloth with coal oil and spat the shoes till they are wet with it. then take a small clean cloth and rub the boots till the oil is well soaked in, then fill them with oats—button first to the top—and shake them down till | the shoe takes its natural shape, then set away to dry for about two hours. Then empty the oats out and give the boots a vaseline rubbing, fill with the oats and set de for a d They will look like new. Oats are so cheap it is a worder that so few women use them for keeping the shoes in shape and for taking the dampness out of the leather. They come next to the last for preserving the shoes in shape. ees An Extra Strat From the Detroit Free Press. “You couldn't give me a little arsistance today, could you?” said a bedraggled-look- ing woman with an old shawl over her head, and whose face was not an unfamil- iar one at the office of the Helping Hand Society. “State your case.” “Well, we're dreadful pore, an’ times is hard, and you know there’s nine in the family. My ole man don’t have stiddy work, an’ we're out o’ coal an’ flour an’ kerrysene, an’ the rent comes due tomor- row. We don't have but four dollars @ week regular income, an’ this week we're under an extry strain. “Indeed! How is that?” “Well, you see t's the week o’ the Meat Market Clerks’ ball, an’ our Lily May has had an invite, an’ she's got to have a pair 0’ white kid slippers an’ white kid gloves an’ a bunch o° flowers to wear, an’ you know well as I do that there won't be much o’ them four dollars left after Lily Ma: all rigged «ut proper.” 0+ A Good Rule, From the Somerville Journal. Proprietor—“I noticed that you were rath- er short with that lady who was in just now. I want you always to treat a cus- tomer with the utmost courtesy, »o matter how small and insignificant the purchase in any case may be. What was that lady after, now?” Clerk—“She wanted a one-cent postage stamp.” ee His Preference, From Vanity. Miss Peachblossom (to her brother)— “What do you think is the most stylish color for the bride?” Brother Jim—Well, I don't know much about style, sis, but for myself I should pre- fer a white one. From the Fliegende Blatter. AFTER EFFECT OF THE STAGE ART. How the actor Wendel pays for his nightcap after he has been acting the same night as Mephisto— Charles d’Moor—