Evening Star Newspaper, September 21, 1895, Page 18

18 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 1895-TWENTY PAGES. HOME ILLUMINATION Some Pretty Conceifs in Lamps and . Fireplaces, BLUE DELPY -ALL~ WHE RAGE No More Lace Trimmings on the Lamp Shades. - BANQUET TABLE EFFECTS Written Exclusiv :ly fur The Evening Star. HEN WE GLANCE that hovers over a great city from num- berless electric lights, it is difficult to send the imagination back to the dark times of our forefathers, when the melancholy flick- er of candles was the only ‘light thrown upon the streets and byways of even the . largest towns. An 4necdote that comes to us from those dingy days shows how difficult it was to rouse suffictent public spirit to furnish as much as a lighted candle toward municipal illum- ination. ; A certain corporation—so the story goes— bent upon improving the lighting of the streets, ordered every householder to hang outside his door a lantern. Although the command was promptly obeyed, the thor- oughfares remained in obscurity, and in- quiry revealed the fact that the lanterns were empty. Another, fuller order was is- sued, that the “lanterns should each con- tain a candle.” Once more the laugh went against the promulgators of the law, for while the citizens obeyed the mandate to the letter, pitch darkness still ruled. At lest, an illumination as of glowworms in the tropics appeared in the streets, and fee- ble points of light glimmered over each dcer, in obedience to an order which it was impossible to circumvent: “Every citi- gen to hang a lantern, having therein a lghted candle, over his door at dusk.” ‘We must go still further back to reach the era of the rush- light, painted by ro- mance with many a picture—bands of children gathering rushes for their win- ter evenings, and merry parties clus- tering around the crackling log, while jest and story pass from lp to Hp. Then followed the day when the “dip” was the costly privi- lege of the rich ex- clusively, and the poor passed many dull evening hours brightened only by the glow of embers, knitting and spinning by the sense of touch. ‘The candle we still have with us, and for dinner table {illumination we cling to Its soft, becoming light. The silver and Dres- den china candelabra are always elegant and in favor, but the fancy of the season is to deck the table with quaint candle- sticks of porcelain. Consequently foreign manufacturers, always alert to please American tastes, are sending out very at- tractive ones, some of which are still in seclusion, held in reserve for autumn and holiday purchasers. Austria furnishes a few grotesque specti- mens in glossy, highly colored, very hand- some pottery. A policeman in dark uni- form, with bright buttons, has his brown club in his hand, his belt fastened with @ gorgeous gold buckle over a generous abdominal development,and shows in wide- open eyes his amazement at carrying a candle in the top of his hat. Another per- sonage whose hat has been made similar- ly_ available is a very smiling, patriotic “Uncle Sam.”" A monk, too, has been press- ed into the service, and amiably carries in his arm a brown jug for holding the can- dle. Animals, also, serve us candlesticks. A bear, in rich shades or brown, sits erect, holding the candle bow! with his forepaws. Again, @ blue Delft lion, in griffin’ atti- tude, supports the candle holder. All these. stand as high as an ordinary candelabrum. There are lower ones of Florentine por- @elain, in floral designs, beautifully paint- ed In rich, vivid col- ors. They are mod- erate in price and very strong—unlike the bisque rose can- diesticks, which, though exceedingly pretty, are too frail to be useful. Among the prettiest of these Italian productions are morning glories, pansies and mar- guerites. If one wishes to use them as dinner favors and desires greater vari- ety, a bit of realism ean be had in a little shovel of iron-color sc ssy china, the short handle in wood rcwn. The candle holder has a well-bal- anced position In the center of the shovel, and a match box, excellently copied in pale yellow, leans agair st the handle end of the spade. The quaintest of all candlestick conceits is a recent importation from Hol- lard. It is old blue Delft, in the shape of a house, with {ts tall gable and chimney or- namentally edged with silver. The house is to be lifted from the foundation when the czrdle is burning, and serves as an ex- tirguisher when the light is no longer de- sired. Lamps have lost none of their popularity, and will appear this winter in exquisite de- signs. A low reading lamp of hand-carved brass, with handles, is in graceful old Grecian shape; the shade is of hand-carved brass in an open pattern, lined with glass of turquoise blue. Owing to the prevailing fancy for Hosland blue and white porce- lain, the Chinese vases cf antique blue, which served as lamp holders a few sea- gons ago, have been supplanted by Delft lamps, shaded with round glass globes, softly painted with sails and windmills. Family crests are another favorite decora- tion for lamp globes. The tissue paper and lace-trimmed siik shades have had their day, and in fashion- able drawing rooms this winter white parchment __ shades, free from millinery effect, will find a wel- come.These are press- ed into folds, like a fan, but are made to flare over a light brass frame by a small silk cord,which draws the folds close- ly together at the top. They are im- ported from France, and are beautifully painted—yellow and black pansies, tulips, Poppies ‘and carnations running riot in an ardor of color. A magnificent plano lamp, just arrived from Paris, is a tall, twisted column of -bronze resting upon three firm claw feet, and the light is softened by one of those fluffy shades of green silk which are so much in favor In the French capital, called the “chicory” shade from its faithful rep- resentation of that delicate, curly plant. Although we no longer depend upon the crackling log for lightirg or even heating our rooms, we still value it for emphasizing the charm of our homes and our hospitality; therefore, the fireplace is a very Important consideration in modern houses. With the Popularity of the colonial style {n archi- tecture, colonial mantels fall Into line, of course; and even though the exterior of the building may not be colonial, the hall and ining room are very likely to be on: that order. Colonial mantels in wood are shown {mn such variety, and are so attractive in their simplicity, they find their way Into many rooms that, otherwise, are quite lack- ing {n suggestions of that period. In many cases these mantelpleces extend to the celi- ing and are handsomely carved: but there are no mirrors or “over-mantel” shelves and rails. The kettle hob, so cheeringly associated with old-time fireplaces, is now frequently built with the fireplace, in odd Uttle ecooped-out corners among the tiles. ‘The mania for purchasing old household furniture has subsided. The value of one’s own heirlooms not lessened, but the spurious satisfaction of possessing those of other people has found its level among other —_affectations, since reproductions of the old styles can be had that are perfect in imitation, and, of course, in far beter condition than the genuine antiquities. Such is the case with andirons. They range from those with @ rusty finish, pro- ducing a very ancient impression, as if they had lain neglected for centuries, to the elaborate French style of the empire period, very bright and ornately carved. For mar- ble fireplaces they are often topped with balls of similar marble, held in gilded claws. For the lofty entrance hall of a new 5th averue mansion exceptionally massive ones have been ordered and now await the com- pletion of the house. They are in the form of fluted brass columns tipped with a blaz- ing torch, and smaller torches are below, where the frame curves toward the fire. They weigh 150 pounds, which suggests a feeling of pity for the servant whose charge they will be. —— THE NEW GARB. Some of the Dangers Which Young Women Brave Nowadays. Fror: the Busten Home Journal. “I have just called, Miss Simpson,” said the angry lover, 0 say farewell; but be- fore I say it I want you to know that I discovered your falseness and I despise you for it ‘Why, Billy, what is the matter?” “Oh, you know well enough. Maybe I didn’t pass the gate last evening and see you with your head on another maa’s shoulder. Who is the unhappy man?” “But, Billy, I haven't seen any man but ‘you, dearest; honest, I haven't.” “*No. I suppose not. Then maybe I am blind, deaf and dumb, arid an idiot. May- be you didn’t have company last evening?” “No one, Billy, but my best friend, Emily. No, I didn’t, and I think you are a wretch.” nd you didn’t stand at the gate?” ‘Oh, yes, we did. We were counting the the big dipper—making wishes on “Oh, yes, I suppose I was blind. Now maybe you'll describe Emily to me?” “Why, she had on her bowler, her black blazer suit, a white shirt waist, with a black satin tie, and a white duck vest. You know Emily, Billy.” Billy—“Um-m! I see.” And what might have heen a modern tragedy was averted, and Billy made up at once. ——___-+e+____ A Plaid Gown. ‘There seems to be quite a fancy for plaids of every description’ this season, and they certainly dq brighten up the somber dark blues and browns and greens which so many women affect just now. Of course, the plaid is introduced more in the way of trimming and accessories than anything else. A whole pe dress on a large wo- man always looks a little incongruous. One of the prettiest ways to use plaid is in a blouse waist. But even that is too loud for a woman of more than ordinary stat- ure, so she has to confine her choice to bands of it. A very handsome red cloth gown with a boucle figure of black was recently made up like the illustration, the velvet having a black ground cross-barred with all the colors of the rainbow, not one of which looked a bit faded. A panel of the velvet was applied on the right side and a panel finished with an enormous bow ex- tended down the left side. The band trim- ming of the plaid on the waist and sleeves is both odd and effective. —_>— Feature Receptions. “Feature” receptions bid fair to be a fad this season. As travel is such an every- day matter, women are penetrating into the most singular. places and gathering “relics” of most remarkable character. Of course, these things should be seen by those who will care for them, so the wo- man who owns the curios fixes up a room in her house with them, and then issues in- vitations to the select circle of friends who are interested in the fad. She dresses herself and her servants like the people of the land where she picked up her bric- a-brac, and has some one prepared to lec- ture on the country, its people and indus- tries. Sometimes this may be pleasant and sometimes it might not be. One lady who has just returned from Hawaii thinks she will do the lecture part of the act her- self, but as the native attire of the dusky islanders is of the simplest character and decidedly abbreviated it is not likely that she will attempt anything in the living picture line, at least until the fad is a few months older. Certainly, these feature re- ceptions will be an agreeable change from the drea: round of teas and luncheons, and one really runs the risk of learning sométhing. That is their chief drawback. oo Great London, From the Quarterly Review. Londcn is perhaps the most eccentric worder in the histcry of the world. Its vast extent of sordid, inartistic bullding, andi its enormous migratory lodger popula- tion; its abundant evidence of wealth and yet its widespread areas of local poverty; its feeble-minded native occupants and the energy of its foreign and provincial immi- grants; the sumptuousness of its western mansions «nd its unlimited extent of squalid homes; its ill-arranged, ill-kept and dirty streets and {ts polluted atmosphere are all exceptioral, and most of them are in their various ways superlative. More- over, London, all its gifts considered, ‘s perhaps the least efficient and least influ- ential aggregate of people on the globe. ‘A population so enormous and condensed is, from sheer incapacity of apprehension. led to take the facts of its condition abso- lutely and without comparison, and to sup- pose that in its special sphere the actual condition is at once natural and necesary. London so completely fills the eye of Lon- doners that they become incapable of measuring the great community or of es- timating its condition and its worth by any outer standard. Hence it is that the chief city In the world falls frequently behind those less important places which are not completely overwhelmed by their own greatness. Petty capitals and large pro- vincial towns compare themselves with one another, to their mutual benefit. They thus acquire self-corscious modesty, and are not left to the assumption that in their respective areas and communities whatever is, or is determined, must be natural and rignt. ———_+e+____. At Nelson’s Tomb. From the Argonaut. In St. Paul's one dy a London guide was showing en American gentleman round the tombs. “That, sir,” sald the man, “his the tomb of the greatest naval ‘ero Europe or the whole world ever knew—Lord Nelson’s. This sarcoughhogus weighs forty-two tons. Hinside that is a steel receptacle weighing twelve tons, and hinside that fs a laden casket, ‘ermetically sealed, weighing two tons. Hinside that his a mahogany coffin ‘olding the hashes of the great ‘ero.” “Well,” said the Yankee, after thinking a@ while, “I guess you've got tim. If he ever gets out of that, telegraph me at my expense.’ DEATH TO INSECTS | Scientific Cultivation of Diseases Fatal to Caterpillars, &. APPLICATION OF THE GERM THEORY Experiments Now Being Made by the Agricultural Department. SPREADING CONTAGION Written for The Evening Star. T HE DEPARTMENT of Agriculture, through several of its experiment stations, is making some inter- esting experiments. ‘The germs of diseases found to be common to insects are being cultivated, and the microbes are let loose, causing dire distress to the my- riads of little rascals which make the Yankee farmer unhappy and which tor- ment every American under his own roof. At the recent meeting of the medico-legal congress in New York the fact that disease germs may be used with unhappy effects for the accomplishment of homicides was pointed out, but whe has guessed that such happy results as insecticides may be had from the came? Experiments in this new sclence are being conducted by Dr. 8. A. Forbes of the agricultural experiment station at Ur- bana, Ill., under direction of the Depart- ment of Agriculture. Dr. Forbes has ex- perimented with caterpillars, seventeen- year locusts and many other insects. A great part of his work has been aimed at the “chinch bug,” which during the sum- mer has committed many thousands of dollars’ worth of damage to the western corn and wheat crops. All insects, of course, have their characteristic diseases and plagues, just as do men. Dr. Forbes has discovered that disease which is most fatal to the chinch bug. Germs of Disease. ‘This is what is commonly known as the “white fungus.” In a few days after con- tracting this malady the insects die, soon after which they become covered with a sort of white mold. The germs, or spores, of this white growth have been carefully studied under the microscope, and it has been discovered how to cultivate them arti- ficially. This may be done in a manner similar to that in which consumption, diph- theris, or other disease germs are cultured by bacteriologists for experimental pur- oses. The culture media must first be ‘cund. This must be a preparation upon which the germs will grow, just as they do in the human body. For breeding consumption or diphtheria germs bacteriologists use a bouillon made of beef broth, gelatine and other food stuffs, which correspond in their compositions to the living tissues of the body upon which the germs naturaly live. The culture media of the chinch bug disorder is found to be a batter of raw corn meal, mixed with beef broth. This is put in test tubes and jars, and the white particies of the disease are sprinkled upon it. Soon they begin to grow, spreading and infecting almost the entire substance. If uncorked among a mass of insects this heavily charged media will, of course, fill their minute breathing organs with the deadly germs, so small that they are not probably distinguishable in the air which these little creatures inhale. The bugs will in the course of a few days die of a Pesti- lence, more fatal even than is the small- pox to us. 3 Distributing Contagion. Dr. Forbes has adopted a novel plan for distributing contagion among healthy in- sects at work in the corn and wheat fields. All over the country infected with the chinch bug plague he has, through the pa- pers, requested all farmers desiring to rid themselves of it, to send him by express as many healthy insects as may be captured and placed in boxes, These after being ex- pcsed to the disease-covered batter were slipped back to the farmers, who were in- structed to keep them confined until dead of the disease. As many other living bugs as might be caught were placed in this same “contagion box” until they showed signs of the disease, when they were liberated into the fields to carry the plague to the re- mainder of their healthy neighbors. The Agricultural Department has record of ex- periments in this line made by hundreds of farmers with amusing results. Many agricultural scientists predict that the experiments open a wide field for a new science, which will bring benefit to the garden and household as well. Professor Cc. P. Gillette, in reporting from the sec- tion of entomology at the recent meeting of the association of agricultural cglleges and experiment stations, referred to the work of Dr. Forbes as marking one of the most valuable advances in economic en- tomology. Not Dangerous to Men. But would we suffer the danger of con- tracting for ourselves one of those dis- eases, from the mosquito, for instance, which deals directly with our blood? En- tomologists have found that the diseases of insects are not dangerous to men, al- though disease is frequently carried from one man to another by flies and others of their kind. This latter point was recently demonstrated before the Royal Society, London. Common house files were placed in contact with a cultivation of disease bacilli. They were afterward allowed to escape into a large room, where they re- mained undisturbed for a certain number of hours. When afterward captured they were made to walk over slices of sterilized potatoes. It was found that at each point where a fly made its track on a potate there were growing the deadly germs of the same disease. The result of this experi- ment was meant to demonstrate the danger of eating fruit from open-air stands, pre- viously exposed to insects which may have only a short time before had their feet in contact with evil germs. Foreign doctors have likewise been in- vestigating the strange case of a woman who recently died of septic erysipelas brought to her by a fly whose mandibles, doubtless, had been buried in a sore on another person only a short time before. In both of these cases, however, the in- sects were not found to have contracted the disease themselves, nor would any danger be offered to man by any plague of the insect world. Some farmers experimenting co-opera- tively with Dr. Forbes not only take live bugs charged with disease and distribute them in the fields, but take the dead car- casses found in their boxes and place them around on leaves and branches of the trees destroyed. In some cases the cul- ture media itself has been placed on plant life, which method is, of course, more ex- pensive. Looking further into the future, why need this new science be confined to the destruction of insects? Why not exter- minate snakes, rats, mice, and other larger enemies to the happiness of the ruler of beasts in the same manner? ———_.>—__ Ministers Forbidden to Trade. Brom tho Chicago Chronicle. Danish and Nerwegian Methodist minis- ters in this conference must hereafter es- chew all cecular business, in obedience to resolutions adopted at the conference in Milwaukee. The action in reference to trading created considerable surprise, and was taken owing to reports that a number of ministers had lately engaged in dealing in real estate and mining stocks, and it was feared this worldly diversion might cause them to neglect their spiritual af- ‘airs. ———_+-e+______ Didn’t Know the Language. From the Atlanta Constitution. Poet (to farmer)—‘“See what a beautiful Prospect is unfolded in yonder billowy neon. and, hark! the voice of the plow- an Farmer—“Yes, he’s been a-cussin’ of that mule sence daylight, and it’s one o’ them German mules that used to pull a beer hee and he can’t understand a word o der BEAUTIFUIC NURSERIES The Cleveland Balflf'at the White House and Gif Gables. Apartments for fuU Infant Royalties of Russia—The Guild Children and Their Handsdéni@ Surroundings. a an From the Upholsterer. ‘We read a great deal about the Astor par- lors, the Van Rengselaer reception rooms, the Rockefeller halls and fireplaces, but we do not hear much of the nurseries, excepting the occasional references to that abode of the Cleveland babies. The manner in which their moral and artistic sense is being en- couraged by Mrs. Cleveland in the rearing of her youngsters is well worthy the emula- tion of every parent in the country. From the earliest minute the little Cleve- land girls were born their eyes were allowed to rest upon the choicest works of art; and as soon as they could point, their tiny fore- fingers were directed toward Madonnas and shapely angels and the softest of cloud heavens. ‘This Is a very curious phase in the life of a woman so surrounded by politics, wealth and worldly matters, but her children will certainly grow with the religious instinct dominant, and, moreover, with the mind so trained to the things that are truly artistic and beautiful that they will feel little in- terest in their mature years for the tawdry, the crude and the commonplace. ‘The nursery in the White House is neces- sarily a circumscribed one. Its old frescoes cannot be altered without doing vandalism to tradition, and its woodwork must be left in straight lines and stately curves. Never- theless a small row of Bible texts, with cheruble pictures, has been tacked around the walls of the White Mouse nursery, and long, twisted Bible verses, Ike the scrolls at a country meeting house, are looped along for them to decipher as they learn their letters. z But at the Gray Gables home the nursery has been planred full of all things beautiful for children to learn. One side of the room has a broad fireplace, in which, however, a fire never burns, but which Is filled with a marble image of two children and a shapely lamb. This symbolizes the text, ‘Whoso giveth so much as a cup of cold water in my name.” And to the lamb hangs a child's tale of the Lamb of the Bible. The Bedtime Stories. At this fireplace Mrs. Cleveland seats her- self at night for the bedtime stories. Upon one end of the mantel there stands a vase of exquisite Dresden, filled always with flowers, which the children must gather for them- selves, and upon the other end Is a clock by which they learn to tell the time. They are allowed to trace the hands with their fingers, and so they pick up the art of time-telling quickly. In the middle is a set of building blocks, each one a church, Noah's ark or steeple. Above this mantel is a Madonna with a child. This always interests the little ones, who demand constantly new stories about the beautiful lady. ‘This work of art is in relief, and is of exquisite workmanship. It is set in pale buff brick, which forms the entire fireplace. This nursery is artistic. Its five windows are planned so that one overlooks the bay, another the flower garden, a third a lawn, a fourth a picturesqud winding road, and a fifth is flower clad.“ It is sixteen by eighteen feet, and is altogether’ideal for three small girls. This Madonria-Hke Interior, with the spiritual names of tha children, makes the hour spent there by the visitor elevating. In the average’ famfly of comfortable means a baby méans ‘about $175 the first year, including {ts:admission fee, and with- out counting in the fregcocs of the nursery or the silver spogn that is placed in its mouth—just nice garments and a snug turn- out, without bays to drive. Nursery. ef Royalty. But to measure‘the money already spent by the young Czatina 6f Russia would re- quire many sets;of. figures. This royal apartment is not aismall dainty white, dark- ened one, to which little beruffied additions are made day by tay, and into whose calm recesses the most interested of all in the coming-event flees for prayer and silent thought when matters of the world trouble. ‘The walls of this room have been set with ruby stones, large, bright and beautiful and almost as valuable as the gems of that name. They have been placed in pattern around in a field of mother of pearl, and this bordering extends far downward from the celling. It is met by a dull gilt metal, wrich continues to the floor, being set with colored pictures in glass and semi-precious stones. The cradle is of most delicately tinted mother-of-pearl, seemingly without break or piece. Its outside glistens like the sun on @ cool day, and its shades in the deep places are like moss in a brook. There must be a row of precious stones around the cradle’s edge, upon which the favored baby fingers will take their first worldly grasp. They are in all colors, with the ruddy touch of the ruby predominating. This cradle is a gift from the Dowager Czarina Dagmar, the widow of Alexander, who will be a xrand- mother. A jeweled crown is held aloft by angel fingers. The Infant Goulds. A nursery nearer home, but not less in- teresting, is that of the Gould children, who have so much money that nothing is denied them. Their nursery is a remarkable affair. The one at Furlough Lodge in the Catskill mountains is thirty feet square, with a fire- place which, though not very tall, could easily accommodate as large an oak log as an ox teara could draw along a winding road. Logs in this fireplace are placed in Abe Lin- coin log cabin style, familiar to every wo- man who has “pieced” a quilt, and they are piled up until you beg the caretaker to put on no more, or the crackling will terrify the youngsters. But it does not. Young Kingdon Gould dances merrily after he, as the eldest of the family, has touched a match to the kin- dlings, and Jay, the next in age, stands ready to touch another should not the roar- ing begin soon. The other two stand back and admire. This fireplace has great iron chains in front, to keep the children from falling in and the logs from falling out, and its fire dogs have names given by the chil- dren, while the great cushioned settle in front of which they sit is named for the different quarters of the globe at which they spend their year. “Cowes” is the eastern corner, with “Vigilant” next it. The far western corner is “’Frisco,”" to which they pay a visit every year by train in the grand annual tour to “Texas,” which Is one large, comfortable end of the settle, and “Idle- wild,” the private car, is the long seat along which they slide. In the home nursery in the magnificent city house there are legendary subjects everywhere. Around the fireplace yachts sail. The floor is in wood, placed in chrysan- themum pattern, the flower of the autumn, when they are ip.towp, and the walls are covered with intgresting objects, like cars shrieking their Way through valleys and children driving 'elks harnessed to country carts. All of these call for thought and in- structive story. If these young financiers are true to they, training they will go to their work well,equipped with plenty of ready knowledgé,, In preparing a Hursery like this a million- aire mother may, casuajly issue an order for $1,000 worth of frescoes and next year all redone in new subjects. But it is due to the comfort of the ayerage small-pursed mother to state that instructlye results can be ob- tained from inexpensive material and the small inhabitanté of the pursery will be equally content. ; + Fashion iy Hair. With the incoming ,brocades of impos- sible figures and'the other pompadour ef- fects the hair must be worn pompadour. Wave it evenly all over the head, then comb {it out and puff it back in an im- mense roll. It is untidy and not at all retty, but it is “smart” looking. The ack hair is arranged in a simple wide knot, rather low on the back of the head, to accommodate the new style of hats which have a good deal of trimming under the back of the brim. Hair ornaments are as gaudy as possible, silver and gold filigree set with colored stones or with tops of rhinestones. Side combs, back combs and pompadour combs are all worn, and all worn at once. It is but a step now to the coach and four and the ship in full sail coiffure of @ century ago. As such things were worn once, there is no reason to suppose that they will not be worn again, if some foolish woman happens to feel like forcing them upon the fashionable world, and has the power to do it. There is no accounting for freaks of fashion. LONG PARISIAN WAIST. As fhown in a Handsome White Broadcloth Gown. A woman who has been fitted for her winter gowns in Paris says that they do their fitting over there quite differently from what they do it here. She was ex- tremely interested in the manner in which the French dressmaker gets tae long- waisted effect. “Of course the first fitting was only the silk lining,” she says. “After It was all fitted, except the top of the dart seams, the shoulder scams were cut, ap- parently, four or five inches too wide. The fitter then tcok out the pins which held the seams and began to pull the waist down as hard as she could pull until there was little more than enough left cn tha shoulders tu make the proper scams.” She thinks that American dressmakers do just the opposite, pulling everything up, and consequently they flatten the bust and get not only a short-waisted effect, but the seams cannot curve as well to fit the figure. ; ‘An illustration of the long tapering French waist Is found in a beautiful white broadcloth for early autumn wear. The skirt is made with panels of the cloth set on over the moderately flaring breadths, over which is laid a Vandyke effect in rews of silver passamenterle. The odd revers are edged with the same and lay back, exposing two puffs of ivory liberty silk.’ The same effects worked out with black beaded passamenterle would be quite elegant. The sleeves may be as large a mandolin shape as you have cloth to make them. ® ——— 3 SATIN AS A MATERIAL. ‘The Cape is Likely to Be Worn During the Winter. ‘The woman who want to select her party gown while the shcps are opening all their pretty fabrics, and before they are pulled and hauled cver by the multitude, yet is undecided as to the material, will make no mistake if she selects satin. Get it bro- caded, in colors, in stripes, In itself, if you like, or get it plain, as thick and lustrous as you like. There. 1s nothing handsomer than plain satin that will “stand alone,” ag our grandmothers used to say. As an illustration to fashion {t by, here is one of tho embroidered ones. A plain thick pale green satin, embroidered with fine green beads, with applique palm leaves of lace. finished with a garland of roses. gown that was worn by one of the ladies in waiting on the queen at a recent court function, and is certainly pretty enough for some nimble fingered American girl to copy, in iiberty silk, or surah satin, with an arrangement of some of the fine imitation laces appliqued with pearl beads of the color best suited to the fabric. One Isn't inclined to fall in love with the fall style of jacket. Their chief excuse for existence seems to be for the purpose of exaggerating the gown sleeves over which they must de worn. AH the jackets shown yet are short—bunty, one might call them, with box fronts,-and they are awfully try- ing to a woman who is not Junoesque. The seams are all strap- ped, as well as the edges and the bor- ders of the pockets, winch are made without flaps, and are square or round, as you like. They all have revers—im- mense ones, which reach to the widest part of those very wide sleeves. These coats make a woman look top-heavy, and if the skirts widen to match them the streets of the city will have to be widened to accommodate two women who wish to walk abreast. Women do not take kindly to the coats, because it is hardly worth while to build up sleeves just to have them crushed, and the cape will be with us all winter. Here is one of the jaunty new ones, of accordion pleated satin, with rose-pleating of the same about the neck and a-handsome ar- rangement of jet coming to a point, back and front. ———.—__. PASSION FOR JEWELRY. The Latest Fad in Wearing These Glittering Ornamen Really one begins to wonder where the craze for silver and gold, imitation of pre- cious stones and frenzy for glitter and show is going to end. The shops are full of little tricks to catch the atteation of the beauty lover and snare the pennies— actually, the pennies, for it has xot down to that. In a shop the other day two ladies met and the older of the two said to the younger, “How sweet you look in that white serge, and what beautiful dia- mond studs. My dear, you must have struck it rich this summer.” And the younger lady remarked with a jaugh, “Why, do they really look like dii monday I paid just 10 cents each for em.”” The older woman said she was going home to pawn her nearly $10,000 worth of diamonds, as it was simply senseless to keep them in the house when $ would bu: her just as handsome looking ones, whic! she could wear without the risk of having them stolen. The very latest fad in jewelry is to string all the trinkets that you once wore on a chatelaine on your long opera chain watch guard. Stick the watch in the belt and let the other trinkets swing below, to catch in everything catchable. Among the numerous adjuncts of this watch chain curiosity shop is the smelling bottle, cal- endar, pencil, purse and bon-bon box. If you have a Trilby heart, a paper knife and a pair of scissors, you might hang them on too. ——— Proof of Progre: From the Chicago Post. 5 “Woman is making rapid progress these days,” said the man in knickerbockers oracularly. “Bo you've been run over, too, have you?” returned the man with a courtplaster on his face. ABOUT JAPANESE WOMEN They Are Said to Be Good and Charming. And Have Been Sadly Misrepresented by Travelers Who Have Had Only | California Corset Parlors, 527 11THST., H.W. COR. FST. a Superficial Kaowledge. A Ge Guerville in Hlustrated American. Nothing in Japan appeals more charm- ingly to the stranger—man or woman—than the sweet and graceful maidens in their beautiful and picturesque costumes of bright-colored silks. The Japanese claim— and not without reason—that nine-tenths of what has been published about the sweet daughters of Nippon is absolutely untrue, and was written by men who know but very little of Japan and nothing at all of its women. I remember a long conversation I had on the subject with one of the prettiest and most charming ladies of Tokio, Countess Inouye, whose father-in-law is one of the great statesmen of Japan. “The conversa- tion having turned upon the subject of Jap- anese women, she exclaimed: “Oh, you foreigners are really too amus- ing when speaking and writing about us. So much fun I had reading Pierre Loti and Edwin Arnold! droll.” if what do you reproach them?” “Reproach them? Why, to be talking of what they know absclutely nothing. Just see Pierre Loti, for instance. He comes here, spends a few weeks en tete-a-tete with a dancing girl of the very lowest class, whose language he cannot speak, who laughs at him and thinks he is the queerest thing on earth—and who after that goes and writes books about ‘Japan- ese women!’ The worst is that foreigners reading these books will come to the con- clusion that we are all like Mme. Chrysan- theme.” “But Sir Edwin Arnold speaks in a very different manner.” “Oh, yes, but he does not know much more. He only knows half a dozen charm- ing little ladies, and he is too much of a poet to ju them asa man. He loves them as he loves nature, and would not possibly speak of them in every-day prose. He drapes them in the veils of poesy, and dreams he is in heaven surrounded by an- is. It seems £0 foolish to us.” very writer on the subject seems to have a different opinion—so different, in fact, that one would be inclined to think that there are several Japans in this world. There is but one, but it contains several classes of women whose conditions are very different. We laugh at Japanese women dressing in foreign clothes. Certainly they are not as graceful as in their own costumes, for they do not know-how é0 wear the occidental dresses. The wearing of unfamiliar gar- ments cannot be learned ih a day. Let the American girls try on the Japanese dresses without the help of a competent costumer, and see what they will look like—to Jap- anege eyes. And now a few words about the morals of Japanese women. It is generally be- Meved in Europe and in America that the morals over there are very low: It is un- doubtedly due to the ridiculous and most unreliable stories which globe trotters de- light in telling their friends. There is not in the world a more moral people than the Japanese. These globe trotters know absolutely nothing of the Japanese women of the middle or upper classes, and during the few weeks they spend in Japan they only meet the geisha girls, whose business it is to sing and dante and sell their smiles. But such @ class of women is to be found in every country, and they are far less de- graded in Japau than they are in Paris, London, New York or San Francisco. There can be no comparison. These women in Japan do not live the life ef dirt and mis- ery, the disgustingly vicious life of the un- fortuuate women of the Quartier de Batig- nolles or of Dupont street. They are well dressed, well fed, well taken care of, well treated. They are comparatively well ed- ucated, and are all good musicians. They could not become geisha girls unless they knew how to play on the samisen, sing and dance. They all have excellent manners. Most of them are sold by their parents, who, of course, belong to the very lowest class of people, to individuals who make it @ business to give them the needed eduza- tion, and later hire them out by the hour, the evening, the,day, the week or the month. Their “proprietor” lodges and boards them, and gives them the money necessary to buy their pretty clothes. Strange to say, girls of this class who have met a man who took enough fancy to them to buy them back and marry them have uniformly made the best of wives. Many Japanese ladies now prominent used to be geishas. To have a “past” does not prevent a wo- man from getting into society, provided she actually behaves well. Even the women of the low class, whose morals are loose be- fore they marry, become honest wives as soon as they belong to a husband. Japanese women do not care much for love—passionate love—as it exists in our country. In fact, it seems unknown to them, and I have come to the conclusion that it’s on account of all of them having uniformly dark skin and hair. It is a well- known fact that a man with light hair will most naturally fall in love with a brunette, but seldom with a blonde, and vice versa. In spite of the many stories circulated in their clubs and other places by men who have left a great deal ef money in Japan, I can affirm that the women of that coun- try thoroughly dislike foreigners, and have never heard yet of one of them being in love with one of us. Strange as it may appear, a kiss is an unknown thing in Japan—not unknown to the gay maidens of Yokohama, Kobe or Na |, who have so much to do for the amusement of foreigners—but unknown to the Japanese in general. A lover never kisses his sweetheart—a mother never kisses her child. it mistake Ah! Ah!—it is more than NOTICE IMPORTANT FEA- TURES OF CALIFORNIA COR- SET— The extreme LONG WAIST and HIGH BUNT woman can get a corset that will ft in at WAIST LINE and BUST OF CORSET will be where HER BUST IS. ‘The medium length waist woman can get a cor set that will LENGTHEN the waist ONE INCH and REDUCE ABDOMEN 4 INCHES. The short stout waist woman can get a corsct that will LENGTHEN the waist TWO INCHI and REDUCE ABDOMEN from SIX to TEN inches. = The CALIFORNIA CORSET FITS, WEARS AND 18 COMFORTABLE. ‘We fit every corset, and if we do not accomplish all we claim you will not be expected to buy. PRICES, $1.50, $2.00 AND UP. We also make to order at from $4 UP. ‘ OUR GOODS ARE NOT SOLD IN STORES THEY CAN ONLY BE BOUGHT FROM OUR PAle California Corset Company, - 527 11TH ST. N.W., COR F ST. tt WORLD'S FAIR BIGHEST AWARD. MIPERIAL CRANUM 33 UNIVERSALLY ACKNOWLEDGED he STANDAR! and the BEST Prepared KOOD For INVALIDS and Convalescents, for Dys- peptic, Delicate, Infirm and Aged Persons. PURE, delicious, nour- ishing FOOD for nurs- ing mothers, infants and CHILDREN. id by DRUGGISTS everywhere, Shipping Depot, JOHN CARLE & SONS, New York. mylé-s,tuéth, ly BED ROOM SOI 3 ss Volapuk, the universal language of love. You can kiss any Japanese girl. She will not object, for she cannot possibly under- stand what you mean. She will only think, “What queer people these foreigners are!” Japanese women have three recreations— smoking, singing and dancing. They smoke most gracefully, as they do everything. This habit was introduced into Japan by the Spaniards some 150 years ago. Japanese girls, however, do not smoke cigarettes like the belles of Andalusia, but pipes, the daintiest little pipes, beautifully orna- mented, ,and holding just enough tobacco for one or two puffs. And now what of that reputation for beauty which the Japanese women are en- joying—again, thanks to the stories of globe trotters? The fact is that there are fewer pretty girls there than in America, and I have not seen one that was beauti- ful. The most one can say of a Japanese beauty is: “How pretty she is!’ or “How cute!” One could never think of saying: “What a beautiful woman!” And yet the Japanese girl charms every one. She does rot charm by her so-called beauty, but by her originality, her grace- fulness, her gentleness, her kindness, her sweetness. She is the best-natured woman in the world, the most affable, the most po- lite and the most amiable. ——_-¢ee ____ Dividing the Baby. From the Philadelphia Press. A country newspaper reports a brief col- Icquy between a woman and her lazy hus- band. She was busy, and the baby was crying, and the man, so far as appears, was doing nothing. . e said, “I wish you would rock 819-821-823 7th wt. mw., bet. H and I sts. wel6-64d “Oh, bother,” was the answer. “Why ° should I rock the baby?” i “Why, because he isn’t very well, and I have pens Bete to do. — es of * him belongs you, anyhow, and you A of hen Nattans’ Dis- ovght to be willing to help take care of | 4 er ei Taare feed to, rg fe le “Well, half of him belongs to you, too, a < a = and you can rock your half, and let my en ae makes the nicest dressing half holler.” ——_—_—__+2+—____ He Kept Off Her Train. “Yes!” sighed the opera manager; “we had a pretty rough season every way. But what took the sand out of me was the row between de Recker, the leading tenor, and Squachi, the prima donna. You know what an awkward stage presence de Recker hes? Well, he stepped on Squachi’s train thirteen times during one performance, and the next night she came on as Marguerite, bloomers. ‘That came mighty near break- us” . Mason’s Fruit Jars, Qts., Per Dozen, 6oc. In green tint glass. In pure white class we * © offer half-galion sizes at 95c. dozen! * [7 17-n, Wooden Preserving Spoons, Frait * Fillers, Paring Knives—Se. each! TcGartaghy’s,336 Pa. Av. S.E. on20-140