Evening Star Newspaper, April 27, 1895, Page 16

16 FREE FROM LININGS The Feature of Thin Garments for Summer Wear. BLACK AND YELLOW IS POPULAR The Latest Decree in Regard to Wide Skirts. ABOUT THE NEW VEILS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HE WOMAN WITH jhoulders and an am- bition to show them will be strictly “in it” this summer, Such quantities and quantities of thin materials are shown, most of them gauzily transparent, and for once the thinness means something More than to look pretty. It means that women are go- ing to take solid comfort in Swiss and mull and lace and grenadine, and wear them with low-cut linings right in broad day- Ught. My, but it will strike people as an odd fashion, the first two or three that put m an appearance, but after that they will get used to it. In the early part of the century a woman was not fully drossed for the street unless she wes half undressed. Her bodice was disgracefully low, or so it seems now, the sleeves were often open up the inside seam and flowing, displaying the whole arm through a thin undersleeve, and the feet incased In low slippers, minus heels, strap- ped across white stockings were in eyi- dence up to the ankle joints! They must have looked like comic valentines. i. All the thin things are to be made abso- lutely free of linings, and the woman who Weers them will fool you into thinking she has an enormous wardrobe, when, in point of fact, she is only ingentous in arranging flowers and ribbons and lace to suit half @ dozen colored slips over which she will wear her black, or white, or pompadour lace or grenadine gown. Don’t go thinking it is an economical fashion, because it isn’t. The thin thing itself will cost a pretty penny, and then every slip has to be made just so, and the ribbons to wear with each must be up-to-date, and that means not less than a dollar a yard, ard five yards !s a small allowance for one slip, owing to the scandalous prodigality with which ribbons are used. Then there are the hats and boots, and gloves, and parasols, which must match the period—of course you must never think of carrying a Marie Antoinette parasol over a conti- nental hat, and as tor Louis Somebody's hess along with a Dutch bonnet, why, it would be just dreadful. Shut your eyes and imagine you see a woman coming along wearing a grass- green satin gown, low in the neck and with balloon elbow sleeves. Gives you the nightmare, doesn’t it? Well, Just open your eyes and see the mist-like silk mull, black, with a tiny red silk rosebud and three inflnitesimal green leaves—the whole figura about able to cover a silver dime— which is worn over it. Note the pretty out- - lines of the blouse, trimmed with iace and ribbon, the long, graceful folds of the full skirt, with three bands of ribbon at the foot, the broad lace hat, with masses of roses and foliage, the black suede gloves that reach to the elbow; now isn’t that a picture for you? Tomorrow the green will give way to a carnation red, and a-red rose bonnet, and the next day shoulders and arms will gleam marble white from a mass of black; the gloves will be white, the parasol will be white with rosebuds on it, the boots will be white with perforated black fac- ings, and the hat will be white with wild roses running riot over It. The next day and the next you will probably see yet other changes, each more beautiful and more stylish than the last, if that were possible. But the same handsome outside gown will do service for all. That is why a woman can afford to pay $4 a yard for grenadine and $5 for lace. For a thick and thin striped black tissue the iilustra- tion with the foot pleating of silk is very showy. The slip may be of your fa- vorite color. The tissue {s of black, madé quite full in the back and flaring loose in front, with rose pleated black silk at the bottom. The sleeves should be of the slip color or of tissue made over the silk, and. the oddly arranged sash must match the brightest color. The collar is a mass of fine flowers with wings at the back of ribbon like that at the belt. For a black mull gown one displayed among the trap- pings of a new bride’s trousseau is swell looking, yet simplicity itself. The full skirt, unlined, of course, has a foot trim- ming of white lace, twelve inches deep. ‘Tho same lace falls over the puffed sleeves and 13 pleated up around the neck and falls In a ruffle from the belt. The lower part of the sleeve is of the lace alone. The slip to wear under this is bright green wash silk. A bodice in the outfit is of black lace with a Jetted stripe. It has a black satin belt and collar and is to be worn with a black satin skirt. The low necked slip is of black satin. It Is one of the most elegant blouse bodices displayed this sea- son. Accordian pleated chiffon is one of the favorite materials in thin stuffs, and {t makes most effective gowns. Black over yellow satin is a popular combination. Very few women seem to recognize the possibilities in black and yellow,-but it {s one of the very richest combinations known. Black lace and big yellow roses combined on a picture hat will tone up a passe complexion nicely. It would seem that the height of folly had been reached in the width and weight of dress skirts. Eight yards around, with all the linings and stiff things, have weighted the skirts down till half a day's wearing of one of them will use the aver- age woman up. The burden imposed, hang- ing as it does entirely from the waist, Is erough to kill a frail woman, and one who has not parted with her last modicum of sense will refuse to risk her health car- Bring the superfluous material around. No fabric could be manufactured that would hold the gowns out from the feet, 60 a thin flat steel, and sometimes two, re added to the other weight. A woman looks liko a ship under full sail with one of thé wired skirts on. When the wind Changes, though, and the sails flop and get tangled up with Louis IV heels and farie Antoinette ruffles and things there is re to be a catastrophe. The very last positive report from the French fashion $rop is that all gowns are soon to be made Without lining, hair cloth or steels. Fash- fon always was good at making extremes meet. Taffeta silk reigns supreme, and it now comes in double width. A remarkably < beautiful piece shown in a Washington shop, fresh from tp importer’s ‘case, is a white ground, with a pompadour stripes of J flowers in natural colors. A pale blue ground had big bou- quets of pale pink roses and green leaves, and a laven- der ground had stripes of yellow roses. Extremely odd combinations, but distinctly ‘elegant, and the price will keep them so—till the Patterns come in wash silk; then no- body will want them. ‘The very latest thing in fads is a locket. It must be heart shaped, it must be larger than a silver dollar, and you must wear it on a thin, thread-like chain outside of everything and dangling loose half way to your knees. For the rest your purse and fancy may dictate. Silver, gold, jewel studded or only chased, the more unique they are the better. What goes inside? Well, now, you tell. Some of these lockets haye been made to order and taken away, and then brought back to the shop to be sealed up. From a workman whose lips are not sealed The Star reporter learned that sometimes it is a bit of thin paper full of fine writing that goes inside, and some- times a lock of hair, often two locks cun- ningly intertwined. Twice a pictured face has beer shut inside the gaud and sealed for all time away from sight. It was the Empress of Russia who started the fad. Her locket is a flat, dull, yellow gold one, and the golden chain from which it is sus- pended is a mere thread. Nobody knows what is inside, but it must be something precious, for she guards it jealously, Of course it was ar actress who promulgated the fad in this country. It will probably be short lived, because the slender chain inclines to snap at all sorts of inopportune times, and it would take a fortune to keep up with the meenderings of lost lockets. The new veils are quite fetching. Black with a red dot catches a good many femi- nine fancies, and white tulle is a great fa- vorite. Thin tulle and black illusion lightly dotted are worn with big hats, and are draped under the chin. By the way, the last thing in a big hat is a poke, filled with flowers inside and feathers on the outside. The effect can be seen in the last illustra- tion, as well as the gown made of the dain- ty Marie Antcinette embroidery, white ona cream linen greund. ———— THE MODERN CORSET. For Athletic Amusements as Well as for Dress Occasions, Talk about the “glass: of fashion and the mold of form!” Glasses and molds are not to be spoken of in the same breath with the new corsets. They seem absolutely perfect, so vastly different from the “form boards” and stiff stays of grandmother's youth. Corsets are now made so light and yet so firm that, if perfectly adjusted, they exert no more pressure than the bit of gauze worn under them, which, by the wa: should be the only material to come be- tween corset and wearer, because bands and belts mar the smooth set of the gossamer-like crea- tions. The very newest Ritts in corsets is \Y for ‘the .abnormally XS“ long-waisted woman, and it has six clasps. SS The first corsets had but three. The four- clasp corset was con- sidered a marvel of fit and neatness, and the five-elasp ’ was hailed with delight by the angular woman, who never could seem to make her bodice and skirt band meet with the shorter waisted “threes. Now the six-clasp seems to fill all require- ments, and another clasp would be an em- barrassment of riches. This new corset has the added length above the waist line. The athletic girl couldn’t possibly cling to corsets and do high kicking or hurdle jumping, and she couldn't possibly abandon the stays into which an injudicious moth- er had thrust ner be- fore her muscles were fully developed; so, after many en- leavors, a so-called “athletic” corset has been perfected. It Is cut out on the hips, where ribbon bands are insefed, and is pointed at the bot- tom, back and front. It 1s lower and flat- ter in the bust, and considerably softer than the longer waisted corsets. If worn loose enough, it will not restrict the muscles much, but unless boned very firmly it will hardly stand the strain. The woman who rides wears a boned girdle. It could scarcely be catled anything else, for it is simply a wide band, lightly boned, deeply pointed back and front, laced in the back, with four front clasps. It has the merit of holding the waist flab- biness in leash, and leaves the hips and upper waist muscles perfectly free. The woman who goes the whole length and drops corsets entire- ly wears only the bust supporter, a dainty affair of’ silk or satin, sometimes embroidered and lace-covered, with a {| bone or two In front and buttoned In the back. If one goes in \ for hygienic dressing the last is the corset to wear; but a stat- ue of the modern fig- ure in this piece of mechanism would never be mistaken for a copy of the Venus de Milo. Many women who aspire to be called “good dressers’ make the mistake of pay- ing too little attention to the fit and ad- justment of the corset. eS BALLOON SLEEVES. George Cruikshank Found in Them an Excellent Topic for Caricature. From the Ladies’ Pictorial. My readers will no doubt be as much amused as I have been by the accompany- ing very striking proof thet “‘sleeve-b loonacy” was quite as rife in the days 6 our grandmothers as it ts today, and af- forded an irresistible object for thé satirl- cal pencil of George Cruikshank, FOREIGN MARRIAGES Some of the Dangers and Difficulties in International Matches. THE LEGAL SITUATION IS PERPLEXING The Nuptial Knot Tied at Lega- tions Apt to Be Defective. A OASE IN POINT ——-—___. Written for The Evening Star. UR GIRLS ARE GO- ing off like hot cakes. Foreign no- blemen have been gobbling them up re- cently in unusual numbers. At no time have princes and counts been such a drug in the Ameri- can market as at present. American girls ought to be warned that they run a good many chances when they marry forelgners. Marriages that are considered perfectly gocd here may be upset abroad and de- clared invalid on all sorts of grounds. If Count de Castellane had wedded Miss Anna Gould without previously obtaining the consent of his father the union would not hold good in French law. Similar restric- tions would follow the citizens of certain other countries wherever they go. Bava- rfa and Wurtemburg have gone so far as to forbid their subjects io marry abroad without consent by the home government. An old English law declared that no de- scendant of George II should be permitted to marry at all without having obtained the approval of the reigning sovereign. This regulation, which now covers a great number of persons, still holds in Great Britain, though it has been evaded in a number of instances by such descendants who have had the ceremony performed on the continent. Laws of a like nature are in force in several of the states of Germany. There is little or no trouble when an American girl marries an Englishman. The ceremony, if performed in this country according to local law, is, as a rule, valid in England, and the converse of this prop- osition also applies. So Miss Letter is all right in any event. But, supposing such a calamity as the death of Mrs. Curzon, her husband, even if he should so desire, could not come to America and wed her sister. At all events, such a union, though stand- ing good here, would not be valid in Great Britain, where brothers-In-law and sisters- in-law are forbidden to marry each other. The same law governs in Germany. The general principle is that no person shall be allowed to evade the matrimonial regu- lations of his own country by going some- where else to be married. ‘The whole question of international mar- riages is complicated by differences in the codes of nations relating to morali In England a union between brother-in-law and sister-in-law {s regarded from the legal point of view as incestuous, while in Amer- ica it is quite otherwise. In many countries of Europe marriages of ecclesiastics are prohibited, whereas here they are perfectly good, no matter whether the ceremony has been performed in this country or abroad. Marriages between Christians and Jews are valid in the United States, but not so in Austria and Hungary. Until recently a similar interdiction prevailed in Prussia. The laws of the United States would only recognize one of the plural wives of polyg- amic Chinamen or East Indians. Legation Marriages. Americans are frequently married at le- gations of the United States in various countries abroad. It is a highly objection- able practice, and our government disap- proves of it. The notion at the bottom of it is to the effect that an American leg: tion is American soil and that on such soil marriages conducted in accordance with United States laws are good. There is just enough truth in this idea to lead people into mischief. It is true that a United States legation is a bit of United State: soil, but that proposition does not the fact that a marriage in any civilized country, in order to be valid, must be in ac- cordance with the laws of that country. In an uncivilized country it is different. There the only laws to be considered are those of the country where the contracting par claim citizenship. Great Britain does recognize marriages of her citizens performed at her lega- tions abroad. But here the case is some- what different. The Church of England is a recognized part of the state and is rep- resented at every legation by a chaplain who is a public official in a sense. He acts as an agent of the government in perform- ing such ceremonies. But even marriages thus accomplished are admitted to be not necessarily valid in other countries, though all right in Great Britain. Obviously it is hardly possible to make such matters too sure. Under date of August 31, 1874, Mr. Hoffman, secretary of our legation at is, wrote to the Department of State at ington, saying that during the pre- vious seven years 150 marriages of Ameri- cans had taken place at the legation—a greater number probably than in all other legations of the United States during the same period. He remarked that, inasmuch as these marriages had not complied with the laws of France, there was serious dan- ger that their legality might be disputed. Massachusetts has declared that mar- riages of her citizens at our legations in foreign parts are good, but she cannot make them valid in France. It goes with- out saying that a married woman ought to be a wife in all countries. Congress has made a deciaration similar to that of Mas- sachusetts just quoted; but it can only be held to apply to citizens of the District of Columbia and the territories. We have no national marriage law, and the regulations of each state of the Union respecting mar- riage and divorce are supreme so far as its own citizens are concerned. A Diversity of La: Not long ago the Department of State issued a circular to our diplomatic and consular representatives abroad, express- ing disapproval of the practice, commonly observed by such officia of giving to perties wishing to be married certificates to the effect that there was no bar, and that they were complying with United States laws governing matrimony. To grant such certificates was obviously an absur- dity, Inasmuch as they must, necessarily, be based on hearsay. Furthermore, the marriage laws of the United States dif- fered so much that no reliable summary could be made cf them. In most of the states, it was added, these laws were un- dergoing frequent alteration. Thus, a merriage performed abroad on a certificate of this kind might be upset, making the children illegitimate. As a matter of fact, the certificate of a minister or consul is practically worthless, though the record of such an officer may serve as evidence that the ceremony was performed. It does not give the ceremony any standing in law. Amefican citizens who get married abroad may select their own religious ceremony, but they must obey the civil requirements of the country. In France and Germany, as well as in Italy, a civil ceremony is ab- solutely necessary. This law was adopted in Germany as a result of a struggle be- tween the empire and the papacy—natur- ally, not without vehement opposition by the ecclesiastics. In France, publication and the consent of the father are neces- sary, with other formalities. If the father is dead, the grandfather must grant hit ajproval. In Germany the corsent of the father must be had unless the intending bridegroom is over twenty-five years of age, or the bride over twenty-four. In France consent is demanded up to the age of thirty, after which a person may marry by giving one month in advance a notice, which must be served on the parent by two notaries. It will be understood that these regulations apply to the men as well as to the woman, If, however, they have been married before, they are free from these festrictions. Officers of the German army are not allowed to marry until they have Gepgaited in the hands of the government certain amount of money. Such restric- tions upon matrimony undoubtedly have a qmarked tendency to promote immoral re- lations. A Cnse of Recent Occurrence. The difficulties which may involve Ss tempts by Americans to’ get'married abroad are illustrated by a cage gf recent ocour- ence. A young lady, residing temporarily In Paris ith her aunt, was engaged to a young man ljving in” Ohio, She was to come home at thévend of @ twelvemonth and marry him; but when the tim: arrives her aunt decided that. she. wanted to s' abroad two years lohger. Obviously, it was not practicable for the girl to cross the ocean alone. So her fiance determined to go over and marry hes in. Paris. He dis- covered presently, however, that he could not marry her under the French law with- out @ year’s previous residence in France. This was too long a postponement for an ardent lover, so he hired a clever youn, Washington lawyer to: find some way ou! of the difficulty. 1 The first idea that suggested itself was to secure credentials of residence in Ohio for both parties and have them forwarded through the. Department of State at Wash- ington to our legation in Paris, where the ceremony could be performed. But it was found that the Ohio laws required a month’s residence to establish citizenship. Unfortunately, the young lady belonged in Iowa. This plan being upset, it was next decided that a residence could be made out for the girl in Colorado, where she had vis- ited her brother. The lover thereupon went out to Colorado, stayed there long enough to make himself a citizen, and procured the necessary papers frem the courts there. These were duly certified by the governor of the state and forwarded to Washington. The lawyer here had them certified again by the Department of State, with Mr. Blaine’s own signature. All difficulties be- ing apparently cleared away, the young man started for Paris. He took the docu- ments to Whitelaw Reid, at that time our minister. Mr. Reid said they were no good. The upshot of the whole matter was that the young man went to London, spent four weeks there, had the banns cried in a church, and in due time went back to. Paris to get his flance. They returned to London together, with the aunt and a maid, and were happily married at last. The affair had been very expensive, but it was accomplished. The Washington law- yer now carries a beautiful silver-headed umbrella as a souvenir of this triumphant attainment of matrimony under difficulties. +o-+—___—_—_. THE AID OF ART. Is Utilized in Remedying the Def- clencies of Nature. The fin de siecle woman wants to look well made, and she is going to If science is worth a sixpence. Some people mightn’t call it science, to be sure, the way women “get together” in their make-up, but if it doesn’t take science to engineer the differ- ent pieces into places and patch up all the seams, it takes something mightily like it, and the bric-a-brac they wear is as in- genious a lot of mechanism as was ever patented. Of course it is all patented, and most of it brings the inventor a lot of money. There is no safer investment for money than a “sure cure for angularity.” Cervantes once ob- served that “every man is as heaven made him, and some- times a ‘great deal worse.” And a very long time before Cer- vantes somebody else said: “Man is fear- fully and wonderful- ly made.” Possibly it is upon these opin- ions that the demand for farm-improvers is based, and, of course, if must be conceded that there is room for improvement in some instanc at. Every little while some devotee of Del- sarte or Jenness Miller;makes a desperate effort to discard the coreet,, then there is a crop of form-improvers, because shoulder blades exert themselves’ to, get up an ex- Hibition, hips fade inte limitless walsts reaching to the heels, busts there are none and bustles likew! Unless a woman wants to be a hideous caricature, she has to have recourse to art: And if you could see the art! It reminds.one of the skeleton frames, out of which the artist in handling mast, built those wonderful imitations of animate nature at tha world's fair. It doesn’t seem to make a bitrof difference on what lines you are built, the deficiencies can be made up now, and when a woman gets on the full coat of.armor she looks like a second Don. Quixate;almo: There was a figure done up in this armor a shop window in Washington recently, and a woman Whose heart was wrung with anguish for the awful lack of tion the display suggested, actually to the author- and tried to the figure re- moved from the win- dow because it so glaringly set forth the deficiencies of the female form, and it must be admi that the tout e ble isn’t prett The form Ing regalia that. is most popular just now consists of four pieces, and the prett shop girl safd that ‘ ald. “Stacks” * of them were is a very good term, be- anese straw at that, naturally come under the hea brac. The straw stacks that build out the bust are raolded like a well-shaped form, and are covered with thin muslin. The’ straw is Lut a single thickness, and is deftly mold- ed into shape, as a straw hat is made. The Mp pads are rounded out and fit well over the front and back of the hip, and the two are fastened by straps that pass over thé shoulders and are anchored in the region of the shoulder blades by means of buckles: and pins. Over this business the back piece is fitted and fastened mainly by_pins. ‘Then the bustle, a few bits of bamboo caged in muslin, is adjusted, and you would be surprised to see what a shapety woman the objects will turn out when draped with a lot of tailor-made stuff. But they don’t look pretty in a shop window. A rude man looked at them quite a while one day, and then his curiosity couldn’t stand it an- other minute, so he went in and asked what they were, and they told him they were newly invented life preserver: And he_belleved and went off wondering ;What in the world “they were selling life preservers here for. There are hip pads of down, and cute lit- tle silk-covered lace- trimmed bust extend- ers of the same kind of stuffing. Some of = the bust” extenders are made of wire, and if they had handles would look lke egg beaters. Others are stiffened and shaped bobbinet. A comi- cal delusion for hips ‘and bust is made of rubber. You blow them up like the tire of a bicycle, and when they are anchored down they have much the effect of real flesh, but sometimes the) cark pops out, or a pin punctures the thin rubber and ‘the consequences are so oyerwhelmingly em- barrassing that few womén care to wear rubber forms. " The dressmaker who understands her business does not leave her customer to buy forms, but builds her gowns over cushions, placed where’ they will do the most good. In the hollows under the arms, cver the bust, across the shoulders, pads in the skirt and pads inthe back. The very last thing in the shape of an im- prover is a sleeve extender, made a good deal like a base ball mask, only it is to be strapped to the arm to bold out the super- fluous goods wasted in sleeves. ——_—-—— Joshed Again, x Farmer Sassafras—‘‘Sufferin’ beans, "Liza! ef thet ain’t one o’ them ‘livin’ picters’ you an’ me’s read on in the noozepapers!”’ THE EVENING STAR has a Larger Circulation in the Homes of Washington than all the Other Papers of the City Added Together, because it Stands Up Always for the Interests of the People of Washington; Contains the Latest and Fullest Local and General News; ‘and Surpasses all the Other Papers in the City in the Variety and Excellence of its Literary Features. It _ Literally Goes Everywhere, and is Read by Everybody. It is, therefore, asa Local Advertising Medium, without a Peer, Whether Cost or \. Measure of Publicity be Considered. THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, APRIL 27, 1898—[WENTY BAGES, PROPOSALS. eS PROPOSALS FOR CoAE, ICH AND WASHING towels.—United States Commission of Fish and Fisheries, Washington, D.C., April 13, 1895. Sealed P Is’ will be received by the undersigned at this commissioa until Thureday, the 9th day of May, 1895, at 2 o'clock p.m., at which time and place they’ will be opened in’ the presence of at- fending bidders, for furnishing such coal and ice as may be orde-ed during the fiscal year ending June 80, 1808. Bids are also invited for wash towela, “The right 1s resérved to reject any and all bids, to waive technical defects, and to accept any part of any bid and reject’ the other part. Blanks for proposals, with specifications of the re- quirements to be met in respect to each article, end also the estimated quantittes probably to be Fequired of each, will be furnished on application to the disbursing agent. HERBERT A. GILL, Acting Commissioner. ap13,15,18,20,27&my4-6t PROPOSALS FOR ICE AND FOR WASHING Towels.—Navy Department, Washington, D. April 18, 1885.—Sealed proposals, indorsed *‘Pro- posals for Ice,"’ and addressed to the Secretary of the Navy, will be received until TWO O'CLOCK P.M. THURSDAY, MAY NINTH, 1895, to supp!y the Navy Department and its various bhreaus and offices in Washington (nct including the navy yard, navy pay office, naval hospital or naval ob- servatory), with ice during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1896. The ice to be supplied must he the best quality of northern tee, oF ice equal thereto, lid, clear, and free from snow or other impurities, and must be delivered daily in such qenntiten as may be required at the offices jesiguated. Also, at the same time and place, sealed proposals,’ indorsed “Proposals for Wash- ing Towels,” and addressed to the Secretary of the Navy, will be recetred from parties regularly engaged fn such business, for ws the towels of the Navy Department’ and ite vi bureaus and offices including naval observatory) in Wash- ington, during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1896. “The department reserves the right to re- Ject any or all bids and to waive defects in pro- posals. In case of a tic in the bids the proposals fo be accepted will be decided upon by lot. The bidder whose proposal is aceepted will be required to enter into contract and give bond, with two or more satisfactory sureties, in the penal sum of two hundred dollara with the contract for ice, and fifty dollars with the contract for washing towels, for the fuithful fulfillment of the contract. Bids must be made in duplicate upon forms which will be supplied upon application to the depart- ment. H. A. HERBERT, Secretary of the Navy. apl3,20,27&my6 PROPOSALS FOR STATIONERY AND MISCEL- Taneous “Supplies. Navy Department, | Washing- .C., April 18, 1895.—Sealed proposals, in duplicate, addressed to the Secretary of the Navy, and indorsed “Proposals for Stationery and Miscellaneous Supple ”’ will be received at this department until WO O'CLOCK P.M. on THURSDAY, MAY NINTH, 1895, for fu such stationery and supplies for the Navy De- partment, including the naval observatory and the hydrographic office, in Washington, during the fiscal year ending Jun 30, 1890. Blank forms of proposals giving the necessary information will e furnished on application to this department. ‘The department reserves the right to waive de- fects and to reject any or all bids. Contracts will be awarded only to manufacturers of or a ular dealers in the articles to be furnished. H. EKBERT, Secretary of the Navy. ys FOR FUEL, PROVENDER AND ICE for the United States Naval Observator avy Department, Bureau of Equipment, Washington, D.C., April’12, 1806,—-Sealed propotals, in dup ) uddressed to the Chief of the Bureau of Equipment, Navy Department, Washington, D.C be Feceived at this bureau until’ TWO O'CLOCK P.M. on THURSDAY, MAY NINTH, 1895, and publicly opened immediately thereafter, for the supply of the following articles: Fuel, Provender and Ice, to be delivered at the Us y, Georgetown Hel +., in accordance with the specifi- hich, with blank form of ee als and iustructions to bidders, will be su upon ap- plication to this buresu or to the superintendent of the naval observatory. ‘The bureau reserves the right to waive informalities and will reject any or all vids not ccueidered tageous to y will be re- formance of the con- ef of Burewt. the government. Rexpoasible secur quired for the faithful tracts, PE. CHADWICK, apl3,20,27&my6 PROPOSALS FOR FUEL—OFFICE OF THE superintendent of the State, War and Navy De- partment Building. Jed proposals in dupll- cate, indorsed “Proposals for Fuel.”” will be re- celved at this office until TWO P.M. on THURS- DAY, MAY NINTH, 1895, to suppiy the State, War and Navy Department building with fuel during the fseal year ending June $0, 1896, as follows: 5,00 tous of extra hard white ash ‘fur- nace coal, 25 tons of white ash stove coal. All coal must be of best quality, free from dust or {inpurities, and inspected by 'a person who shall be designated by the superintendent, and to be weighed upon the government scales in the court yard. 100 cords of hickory. wood, 50 cords of Spruce pine wood. All wood to Ve of the best quality, and inspected by a person who shall. be inated by the superintendent. The hickory wood to be sawed in three pleces and measured after it is sawed and delivered. ‘The coal and wood to be delivered at the State, War and Navy building and stored in the vaults by the party or parties to whom the contract or contracts may be awarded, at such times and in such quantities as the convenience of the office may require, re- serving the right to order as much more or as much leas of either coal or wood as may be re- quired, at the contract price; also the right to re- fect any or all bids, or to accept any portion of any bid. The successful bidder to furnish bond in the sum of $5,000 as a guarantee of the faith- fal performance ‘of the contract. THOM WIL- ISON, Chief Engineer, U. 8. N.. Superin- 1p13,20,27,my6 SAIS FOR MISCELLAN ITE} Office of the Superintendent of the State, Wai and Navy Department Buildinz—Sealed proposals in duplicate, indorsed “Proposals for | Miscel- laneous Items,”" will be recelved at this office until TWO P.M. on THURSDAY, MAY INTH, 1805, for furnishing this office during the fiscs Soar ending June Jo, 1806, with soap. rus Sponges, paints, oils, towels, crash, nails, screws, ete., ete. Schedules, forms of proposals and all necessary in tion can be obtained upon ap- plicati 1OM WILLIAMSON, Chief Es eer, U. perintendent. _ay/13,20,27,ms )POSAL . DEPARTMENT OF AGRI culture, Office of the Secretary, Washington, D. ( April §, 1895. Sealed pro in duplicate, sub- ject to’ the usual conditious, will be received by the Secretary of Agriculture until 2 p.m, Thurs- day, 9, 1895, for furnishing the U.S." Depart- ment of Agriculture and its several branches, dnr- ing the fiscal year ending June 30, 1896, the full ing suppli fonery and duplicating supplie: fuel, ice, laboratory supplies, lumber ‘and pack" ing "boxes, painters’ supplies, plumbers’ material, ts’ Inaterial, forage, flowerpots, seed pockets, card tags and hog rings, Hardware, tele- graph supplies, instrument supplies, maps and map frames, flags, cleaping carpets and ‘washing towels, sehold and m at draya and paper. Full inforn ules and nks, can be obtained upon application to the Weather Bureau. Persons up- plying should specify the class of ‘articles upon which they desire submit bie Bids must be to the Seeretary of Agricul- MORTON, Secretary. INTERSTATE COMM CE COMMISSION, Washington, D. C., April 12, 1895.—Sealed_ pro- posais will be received at this office until 2 o'clock p.m., Monday, May 13, 1895, at which time and lace they will be opened in the presence of attend- ing bidders, for furnishing the following classes of supplies during the fiscal year ending Fune 30,1898: Stationery, ice and such miscellaneous articles as may be ordered. Bids are also invited for the pur- chase of waste paper from the commission and for washing towels. Iids will be considered on each item separately. ‘The right is reserved to reject any and all bids, to waive technical defects, and to accept any part of any bid and reject the other part. Blanks for proposals, with specifications of the requirements to be met in respect to each arti- cle, and also the estimated quantities probably to be required of each, will be furnished on applica- tion to the secretary. Responsible security will be required for the faithful performance of the cot tracts. By the Commission. EDW. A. MOSE) Secretary. apl3,15,20,22,27&my6-6t PROPOSALS FOR ICE, FUEL, FORAG AND for washing towels.—War Department, Supply Di- vision, Washington, D. C., April 13, 1895. Sealed proposals, in duplicate, subject to usual conditions, Will be received here ‘until 2 o'clock p.m., Thurs: day, May 9, 1805, at which time they ‘will be opened, for furnishing {ce, fuel and forage, and for washing towels for the War Department, its bu- reaus and offices, during the fiscal year ending June 80, 1896. Blank forms of proposals showing items and estimated quantity of ice, fuel and forage re- quired, and also estimated nutuver of towels to be washed, will be furnished on application. The ice, fuel (coal and wood) and forage to be delivered at the War Deparment, bureaus or offices, in Wash- ington, for which required, in such quantities and at such times as the convenience of the department may require. Proposals for washing towels should state price per dozen, Proposals must be on blank forms furnished by the department, and securely inclosed in sealed envelopes indorsed on outside, “Proposals for Ice,” “Proposals for Fuel,” ““Pro- tor Forage,” “Prope for Washing Tow- ."" respectively, and addressed to M. R. THORP, chief of supply division. — ap13,15,20,22,27&my6-6t PROPOSALS FOR PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHIN Department of the Iaterior, General Land Office, Washington, D.C., April i3, 1895. Sealed pro- posals will be received at this office until 2 o'clock p.m., Thursday, May 9, 1895, for photo- Nthographing and printing: 15,000 copies more or less of the map of the United States, and 20,000 copies more or less of the maps of the land states and territcries prepared -in the General Land Office. Specifications as to the cMiracter of the work, size of maps, quality of paper, may be procured at this office where specimens will be exhibited to bidders, who must satisfy themselves as to all re- quirements. At the same time and place pt will also be opened for photo-lithographing and printing such copies of township plats and other official plats constituting part of the official records of the office as shall be required during the fiscal Fear ending Jane 30, 1896. Details and samples of the work to be done will be exhibited to bidders on application. A certified check for five per cent of the amount bid must accompany each proposal. Bonds, with approved sureties, fr faithful formance of the work will be required of the co: tractor. The right 1s reserved to waive any de- fects or reject any and all bids. Proposals must be made in duplicate and addressed to the com- missioner of the general land office, indorsed on t envelope ‘Proposals for United States Maps,’ “Proposals for State and Territorial Maps,”” or “Proposals for Reprodueing Township Plats,"" as the case may be. All proposals will opened at the time apd place sbove stated, and bidders are invited to. be Present at such opent S.W.LAM- OREUX, Commissiover, _ap18,15,20,21,27&my6-6t PROPOSALS FOR STATIONERY AND NIS- celiaueous Supplied.—War Department, Supply Di- vision, Washington, D.C., April 13, 1805. Sealed proposals, in duplicate, subject to usual conditions, Will be received here ‘until 2 o'clock p.m., Thurs: day, May 9, 1805, at which time they will be opened, for furnishing stationery and miscellaneous supplies (consisting of brooms, | brushes, | soaps, towels, etc.) for the War Department and its by- Feaus and offices during the fiscal rear ending Juno 80, 1896. Blank forms of proposals showing items and éatimated quentities of stationery and miscel- Janeous supplies required will be furnished on ap- 6 must be on blank forms fur- by the department and securely inclosed in envelopes indorsed on outside of envelopes, ihr” Seationetr apd “Proposals for iscell ,'" respectively, and address- Mt MH THORP, chiet of supply’ division, ap13,15,20,22,27&my6-6t z — RN _ 50 years’ experience in treatment of all RAILROADS. SOUTHERN RAILWAY, (Picdrsont Air Line.) Eehedule in effect April 21, 1895, All trains arrive and leare at Bennsyivania Passenger Station. 8:00 A.M.—Daily—Local for Danville. Connects af Manassas for Strasburg, daily, except Sunday, avd at Lynchburg with the } and Western, daily, 11:15 A.M.—Daily—The UNI’ STATES FAST MAIL carries Pullman Buffet Sleepers New Yorlg end Wasbington to Jacksonville, uriting at Chare Jotte with Pullman Sleeper for Augusta; also Pulle mun Slecper New York to Mentgomers; with colt~ nection for New Orleans; connects at Atlanta with Pullman Sleeper for Bit e ‘Tenn. and Kansas Citys eee Alas Memphisy -M.—Local for Strasburg, daily, except Sune P.M.—Daily—Lvcal for Charlottesville. 10:43 P.M.—Daily— WASHINGTON AND SOUTH; WESTERN VESTIBULED LIMITED, composed Pullman Vestibuled Sleepers and Dining Cars, Pulls man Sleepers Washington to Asheville and Hi Springs, N-C., via Salisbury, New York to Me pbis via a New York to New Orle yla Atlanta and Montgomery, and New. York Tuimpa via Charlotte, Uolumbia and Jacksonville, Day Coach Washington to Jacksonville. Parlor Car Columbia to Augusta. Dining Car fzom Greensboro to. Montgomery. TRAINS ON WASHINGTON AND OHIO Die 9110 A.M, daily, 4:32 33 P.M. Sundays VISION leave Washi ept Si MM. only, for Hound Hl, and’ 6:38 Bat daily: for eto P.M. daily, exce don. Jteturning, arrive at Washington 8:34 an 3:00 P.M." daily from ound Hil, ana . daily, except Sunday, from Herndon only. ‘Through trains from the south arrive at Wastiings ton 6:42 A-M., 2:10 P.M, aud 6:30 P.M. dallyg Manassas Division, 9:45 A.M. dally, except ‘Sundayp and 8:40 A.M. dally from Charlottesville. iekets, i tng (ar reverration and informatiog a1 ennsy lv Bue, and at Pennsylvania allroad Pasecnger Stat W. H. GREEN, General jendent W: A” TURK. “General Passes T agent. ap22__L. S. BROWN, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept. PENNSYLVANIA RAILR STATION CORNER OF SINTiT_AND B STREET 5 EFFECT APRIL 21, . 10:80 A.M. PENS XLVANIA” LIMITED—Pullmag ping, Dining, eee Observation Care rg to Chicago, Cincinnati, Indianapolis, St. Louis, Cleveland avd Toledo.” Buftet "Parlor Car to Harrisburg. LINE.—Pullman Buffet Parlor 10:30 AM. Fas ir to Harrisburg. Dining Cars, Hare Fsburg. to Pittabrg: oF 204 8:40 P.M. CHICAGU AND 8ST. LOUIS EXPRESS, Pullman Buffet Parlor Car fo Harrisburg. Si ing and Dy Se. Lous, Cincinnati, rile cago. 710 YM. WESTERN EXPRESS.—Pallman Sleep Dining ‘Car to Chieago. TS TAUNE ‘0 Cleve 7:10 P.M. SOUTHWESTERN EXPRESS.—Pullman Sleeping and Dining Cars to St. Louis and Sleep- 102) PAL PACIEIE Exbi eS man 3 -M. PACIFIC XP} —l Car to Pittsburg. - oe A-M. for Kane, Canandaigua, Rochester and ‘tfagura Falls daily, except Sunday. 10:30 A.M. ‘for Elmira and Renovo, dails, except ‘or Will: rt daily, 3:40 1M. 7:10 P.M. for Williamsport, Kochester, Buffaio and Niagara Falls daily, except Saturday, with Sl ing Car Washington to Suspension’ Bridge 1040 FAL. for Erle, Canandaigua, Rochester, Bute Mia; Fs 1 Vash ington to Elmira. i Gaaaeoks = FOR PHILADELPHIA, NEW YORK AND THE 4:00 P.M. “CONGRESSIONAL LIMITED,” all Par- Jor Cars, with Dining Car. from Bultimore for New York daily, for Philadelphia Regular at 7:05 (Dining Car), 1:20, ore Car), ane 11:00 (Dining Car) 2:20, 6:40, 10:00 and 11235 P. = lay, 7:05 (Wining Car, 7 00, 11:00 (Dinkng FERS SMe HENS, 815, (a:b0, 6:40, 10-00 . For Fhiladeiphia only, Cast Express, GUA week-days” Express, and 5:40 P, For Boston, without E és = pind, 349 'P.aL rT rereebaccreea: herictir tod ‘or Baltimore, 6:25, 7:05, 7:20, 7:50, 9:00, 10: 10:80, 11:00" and 11:90" AM ie18, Sui, SAR 220, 4:36, 5:40, 6:05, 6:40, #0, 11:15 and 11:35 P.M. On Sun- 200 Limited), 200, 9:05, 10:30, 11:00 A.M., 8:40, (4:00 Limited), 4 10:00, 10:40 and’ 113 A.M, and 4:33 P.M. For Pepe's Creek Line, daily, except Sunda} For einapelis, 7:20, 9:00 and 11:50 A-M., and 4:20 M. , except Sunday. Sundays, 92 aad 4:20 PM ee Atlantic Coast Line. Express for Richmond, Jack- sonville ard Tampa, 4:30 A.M., 3:30 P.M.” daily, Richmond and Audota, PAE auiiys~ tatehe amond only, 10:57 AM.’ week-days. commodation for Quantico, 7:43, A.M. > and 25 PAL weeedaye ns a) AM. dally For Alexandria, 4:30, 6:35, , 11.50 A.M., 12:50," 1:40, 3:20, 6:15, 8:02,"10:10 and 11:29 P. 4:30, 7:45, 0:45 AM., 2:45, Taare Alexandr save Alexandria for Washi ‘Si, 9:10, 10110, loss A 8:28, 5:00, 5:30, 6:13, 7:00, and ‘11:08 P.M. ‘On Sunday st 6: A.M., 2:15, 5:80, 7:00, 7:20, 9:10 and 10:52 P. Ticket offices, northeast corner of 13th street and Pennsylvania avenue, and at the station, Gth and B streets, where orders can be left for the checks ing of baggage to destination from hotels and res- idences. 8. M. PREVOST, J. R. Woop, ses Manager. General Passenger Agent. BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILROAD. Schedule in effect Jan. 6, 1895. Leave Washington trom station corner of New Jersey avenue and C street. For Chicago and Northwest, Vestibule Limited trains 11:25 a.m., 8:00 p.m. For Cincinnati,’ St. Louis and Indianapolis, Vesti- buted Linnited 3:90 p.l Express 12:01 agit, For Pittsburg and Cleveland, express daily 11:25 a.m. and 8:35 p.m. For Lexington and Staunton, 11:25 For Wincuester and way stations, For Luray, Natural Bridge, Roanok, Memphis, and’New Orleans, 11: eeping cars through. 24:20, 5:00, 6: 8:36, and 11:85. p. (9:00 45-minutes), x: 22:20 (00 4 $, 6:80, 28:00, 59:00, Fi 10 and 8:86 a.m., 12:15, 4:28 ptm. Sundays, 8:36 a.m.,e4:81 p.m. For Frederick, bY:00, ¢11:25 a.m., b1:15, 04:30, ‘05 p.m. F points, €6:00, 8:00 285, "a7 205, For Wa hington Junction and way points, b9:00, 9:50 a.m., b1.15 p.m. Express trains stopping at rincipal stations onl , 5:30 p.m. »- OY. BLUE LINE sR NEW PHILADELPHIA, All trains illuminated with Pintsch light. For Philadelphia, New York, Boston and East, week day: 10:00 Di Car), (2:00 Dinit 8:00 ‘Sunday it Ing Cap, 8:00 18:00 Dining Car, r, open for passengers 10% 6 mee Parlor Cabs on I day t For Atlantic Ci aul noon, Sundays, + ¢ Except Sunday. x Express trains. Baggage called for and checked from hotels and residences a7 Union Transfer Company on orders left at ticket offices, 619 Pennsylvania Avenue n.w., New York avenue and 15th street, and at depot. CHAS. 0. SCULL, Gen. Pass. Agt. R. B. CAMPBELL, Gen. Manager. ft CHESAPEA! AND OHIO RAILWAY. Schedule in effect March 4, 1895, Trains leave daily from Union Station (B. and P.), 6th and B sts. ‘Through the grandest scenery in America, with the handsomest and most complete solid train serv- from Wasbingto tee west, from LY “Cinclonat! and St, 1 Special" Solld Vestibuled, newly Equipped, El SMignted, Steam-beated Train. Pullman's fi {eeping cars Washington to Cincinnati, Indjangy fleeriNl Ge Louis without change. Dining from Washington. Arrive Cincinnatl, 8:00 a. ‘7 [baianapolis, 11:40 a.m, and Chicago, 5:30 p.ui} the § 34 a.m. rf Car), 6:00 Dining Car), jeeping Car, open at 10 o'clocl 4 (9:00 a.m. Dining t. Lou! p.m. st 10 5 . V. Lim- ited.” A’ solid vestibuled train, with dining car iiman Sleepers for Cincinnat!, Lexington a] and Pole without change. Pullman Sleeper wWasbe Jaxon to Virginia Hot Springs, without’ change, Meck days. ,Gusereation car from Hinton, Amit Y 250 p.m. ; 6:00 pth. 5 Sere ndjanapolis, 11:20 p.in.: Chie 6:56 a.m’; counects iy NDAY.—For Old Point DAILY.-'Peprese for Gordonsville, 2:2 -M, DAILY.—1 fOr jonsville, Chasiottesitc, ‘Waynesboro’, Staunton 2nd princi fal Virginia points, daily; for Rictmend, daily, ex- - © Ponmen “ocations, and tickets at company’s of- Penusylvs avenue. fices, 613 and 1421 pivagia avert mbé General Passenger Agent. “DENTISTRY. Nothing Experimental About our method of painless treatment for ailing teeth. It is entirely scleutific—per- fectly harmless and bas proved eminently successful whenever used. The advice and attention of a skilled practician assured every patron. Extracting without pain, 60 cents. DR. GRAHAM, 307 7th st. FREE DENTAL INFIRMARY, st. Dw. daily from 10 to 12 a.m,, p.m. No charge except for mage inl mh11-140 On the down grade of quality and price whe cheapness ceases to be economy. Our claims | superiority rest on superlative service and not om price—but the association system enables us ta adopt fees which private practitioners cannot af- ford for the best grade of work. Read our ad. on local page. Extracting, 25¢.; with Zono or gas, BOc. Jeane ‘7be.; fillings, 75e. up; gold crowns, $7:605 t teeth, U.S: Dental Association, 4030-tt COR, 7TH AND D STS. N.W. = ——= AFTER reliable specialist, Dr. Brothers, 900 B en; consultation free and strictly confidential,