Evening Star Newspaper, April 13, 1895, Page 22

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, APRIL 13, 1895—TW ENTY-FOUR PAGES. LITTLE BOW BONNETS The Summer Styles Will Relegate Them to the Rear. SOME OF THE LATEST HAT SUGGESTIONS The Profuse Use of Lace One of the Fads. TAILOR-MADE GOWNS Written Exclusively for The, Evening Star. | HE VERY NEWEST news from across the pond, where the seeds of style are supposed to sprout, is to the effect that small bon- nets, the postage stamp variety, will be short-lived. In fact, they are not now so much the thing as they have been for a “year past, and for street or visiting are being quite supersed- For church or evening ed by large hats. wear the flower capote will prove popular all season, no matter what French au- thority 1s quoted to the contrary. The cute little ‘bow bonnet, or its half sister, the wreath of flowers, is becoming to most American faces, because the American wo- man is less given to powder and rouge than her foreign sister, and can expose her unveiled countenance to the gaze of the public without fear of her “make-up” being criticised. The broader hat, with its cage-like veil, helps to cover up the de- ception, and that makes it more popular with a certain class. For summer wear, hats are bound to take the place of the good-for-nothing-but- to-look-pretty little head dresses that are dignified by the name bonnet. Sunstroke would be inevitable otherwise, though one could wear a damp sponge on the place that the bonnet does not coyer, but that suggestion will scarcely be adopted. The French authority just referred to says that the Louis Seize hat, or round-crowned, flat and decidedly broad-brimmed chapeau, boldly turned up at the back, is first favor- ite. It is trimmed with broad bows or rosettes of heavy ribbons, clumps of feath- ers or whole posy patches of flowers and yards and yards of lace. The women of French history are setting the fashions in headgear’ just now. You can begin with the Gauls and come right on down the line, taking from any pe- lod the style that seems to suit your needs. You can wear the owls of Minerva or Mercury's wings on your head, not your heels, or you can steal an idea from Flora’s diadem and wear a wreath of roses. You can wear a silken bow or go back to its first prin- ciples and wear the butterfly itself with a wreath of cocoons, indeed, you can do almost anything if you will only be original and not ridiculous. For ideas about new bonnets, here is some “red-hot” information with the true French flavor. “For instance, a neat Ittle gold and silver embroidered ‘coiffe,’ cut in points above the brow and enframing @ bow of white tulle, from which rises an ‘aigrette’ of black paradise feathers, is charming for theater wear. Another one, Lotus,’ is composed of a single pale- blue or pink inverted blossom and has un- doubtedly a very fetching oriental flavor. M. de Montesquieu’s favorite flower, the Hortensia or hydrangea, is also destined to play a considerable role in our colffure, these highly ornamental blooms in numer- ous shades of green, mauvish-blue, flesh color and ® more intense pink being set gen couronne around the waved coils of hair or ‘Huit Restauration,’ which are the lernier-cri of the moment. I may add that ulips, mimosa, geraniums and marigolds are equally much in favor. Of course the acme of chic is attained by the select few who can afford to decorate their bonnets with real flowers and who discard the imitation, on the plea that they look stilted and vulgar.” Now, there is an idea for you. If you want a bonnet that will show exactly what it costs, get ten of the big American beauty roses, such as cost about a dollar each, and make a wreath of them, then stick a couple of live humming birds over the front, and you will be a real sensation for @ time at least, and perhaps longer, unless the society for the prevention of ‘cruelty to animals gets after you. The big hat will be more picturesque than it was last season. It will be largely of lace, or loosely-woven straw, and light weight, but loaded down with feathers, and x lifted from the head by @ band of ribbon or velvet in front or in the-back, in the center of which will be a handsome buckle or ornament of scme kind. Some of the big hats are heavy with jet orna- rientation, and the woman who wears them is going to com- plain of headache, and wender where she got it. Another of the big hats comes down over the ears, with drooping plumes, and has a convo- luted front, with monstrous great bows, the ends embroidered with silver and gold, jet and other gems, and a sparkling buckle to hold it to the hat just above the eyes. The sailor will be worn this season just as it has been for a decade, but it won’t know itself after it gets out of the hands of the trimmer. It must be trimmed, you know, and the wider the trimming sets out at the sides the better. Use lace and rib- bon and velvet, flowers and feathers and buckles; nothing, is too good for a sailor this season, and the more you get on it the better its ugly outline, so trying to the average face, is covered up. This is to be a lace season. A gown builder sald the other day that there would be a “scandalous” lot of lace used, and that {t would trim “everything.” Scandal- ous is an odd synonym for profusion, but meybe it Is all right sometimes, though one can scarcely think of it in connection with the use of lace. The new laces for gowns are lovely. You do not see many of the deep flouncings, but the narrower laces for ruffling and ruf- fles will be the rage, match the wide nets fn pattern. The old fish net that was a torment of soul from the first instant it was donned, fs gone, and in its place comes a coarse- mesh2d Brussels net, dotted like swiss. It very wide and rather costly, but it is splendid in quality and will last two or three seasons, when the commoner nets will go in less than a season. Colored silks and satine slips will be worn under these nets, which will be made up sep- arately, so as.to be draped-with different colored ribbons on different slips, thus making a change in the gown equal to a Bew one. Some of these nets are mag- nificently jetted, and cost “scandalously.” A few choice designs are shown in figured nets, the leaves and clusters of flowers Outlined with jet, and some with cut stee! The cost of them would take your brea away just to mention it. An ingenious young iady who has more time than money got around this fad in a perfectly lovely way. She has some black lace that is old and rich and fine, and she just bought beads gnd beaded that lace herself. It is not a difficult task, and pays, if your time is of no value elsewhere, One of the prettiest uses of lace, and Perhaps the most frivolous, is to put it on petticoats, on the edge of ruffles. The fuffles are made very full indeed, and the lace fulled on them, and the effect about the feet when the skirts are lifted is most charming, but on a muddy day, well, they @re not so pretty then. Lace on bodices and hats and lingerie will be just as plen- tiful and as costly as the purse will per- mit. Positively that is the only thing that will mit the purchase. Lace was never A Traveling Gown. prettier, and never better or cheaper than now, and the imitation is so fine that it is scarcely worth while to talk of the real, even if one can afford it. All the dainty silks and laces in the world will not crowd out the trim tailor- made gown. Those fer the southern and transcontinental trips are being made now, and they are a delight to the eye that loves severe lines. Really, you know, they are the mdst comfortable dress in the world to travel in, because there are no frills and things to get out of fix, and a woman in a tailor-made gown can go around the world and look as well at the end as at the beginning of the trip if she does not meet with some unforetold acci- dent. Tweeds, cheviots and boucle fabrics, in fact, almost any coarsely woven mate- rial is the choice, and there is an inclina- tion to get away from stiff linings, which muss and add to the weight. Some of these gowns are made in three Pieces—skirt, vest and coat—and have two or three waists of silk or satine. Others, the one illustrated, for instance, have a waist, skirt and cape all alike, and extra blouse waists for warmer weather. The cape is usually lined with bright silk of some harmonious shade, but the only sign of trimming on the gown will be stitching and buttons. You may use those two wherever the fancy strikes you to put them. A trimmed sailor or some varia- tion of the English walking hat, with close trimming, is the only headgear permissi- ble with a traveling gown, though you sometimes see over-trimmed big hats on new travelers. If it is the shade of a big hat that is desired, then trim it simply as possible, and don’t wear flowers on a traveling hat. —_———.___. SHE WAS A WOMAN. For This Reason There Was No Occa- sion for Surprise. W. J. Lampton in Detroit Free Press. The sun beat down that blistering after- noon on the little adobe cabin just beyond the arroyo, and on the far side, in the shade, sat two sweltering cow punchers, with a pack of cards between them. It was too hot for even this mild exercise, but it served to keep their minds off the weather, and they played lazily along. At last one of them threw his cards down. “By gravy, Bill,” he exclaimed, “I can't play any more.’ “What's the matter?” inquired: Bill. “Too hot for you?” : “No; ‘tain’t that, though the Lord knows it’s most hot enough for anything. It’s that little girl down there at old Slocum’s.' “What's she got to do with the game?” asked Bill, in surprise. “Nothing much, I guess, but a good deal with me.” “How?” and Bill picked up the pack and began shuffling the cards aimlessly. ‘Oh, I don’t know.” “Stuck on her?” inquired Bill, with a laugh which struck his companion as rather harsh. “Not exactly, I guess. “She's the purtiest thing in this valley,” said Bill, admiringly. “I know it,” admitted the other. “I was down there last night and she was sweeter than ever. “Well,” impatiently, “what are you going to do about it? “What would you advise?” “That depends on what kind of advice you want.” “I was thinking about marrying her.” Bill gave a long whistle and stopped shut- fling the cards. ‘What, marry a halfbreed, and you hav- ing the kind of folks you have back in the east?” he said, seriously. : “I don’t see how I can get out of it hon- orably,” he reluctantly confessed. “Nothing between you, is there?” was the nervous inquiry. = “Oh, no; but you see, I've been going down there to see her for six months now, and she has been kind of expecting me to come. I didn’t think much about it at first, but now, blame me if I don’t think about her pretty much all the time. The last four or five times I’ve been to see her she showed me straight that she thought a lot of me, and last night she told me every- thing, and said if I left her her heart would break and she would drown herself in the river. I can’t stand that, you know, and besides, I'd rather marry her myself than have anybody else marry her.” “She'll git old man Slocum’s property when he goes over the divide,” said Bill, thoughtfully, “and that’s worth a pile.’ “Yes, but I don’t care for that. It’s the girl and my own honorable action in the matter.” They talked until the sun had sunk behind the mountain and by that time it was de- cided that Bill would go with his friend Joe, and settle the business with the girl's father, old man Slocum. Early the next morning they set out and before the sun had reached the hot place in the heavens they were at Slocum’s. “Where's Mgg?”” asked Joe, after they had passed the compliments of the morning. “Oh, she’s skipped,” answered Slocum, with a laugh. ‘Skipped? gasped Joe. Yes; skipped sometime in the night with Pete Smiley, and she needn’t ‘a’ done it, fer Pete was agreeable to me,” and he laughed again. Joe felt something rise in his throat and drop back again like a plece of lead. Bill looked at him curiously. “Gals will be gals,” said Bill, turning to Slocum, “but what we come down here to see you about, Mr. Slocum, is cattle,” and he carried it through nobl; ——__+ 0+ ____ Thinks She is a Canary. From the St. Louis Globe-Democrat. Annie Mayne, a pretty young patient at the city hospital, imagines that she is a ca- nary bird, and all day long warbles, sings, and twitters, much to the delight of the other patients who come within hearing of her voice. A etranger entering the ward would attribute the music to a pet songster in its cage, and to the uninitiated the in- ability to discover the bird hanging about the room has occasioned the convalescing patients many a smile at their bewilder- ment. Dr. Marks thought at first that the singing would annoy the sick, but the wan faces in the ward pleaded that she remain. It breaks up the dreary monotony of wait- ing and brooding, said her companions, and produces pleasant thoughts that cheer the spirits back to health. So Annie was left undisturbed. ——_+e+____ Slow Music, Please. From: the Chicago Journal. GF “Oh, mournful margin! Woeful thought! Sorrow as old as boyhood’s day; The difference 'twixt the fish we caught And the other one that got away!” WHOLESOME WOMEN The Relation of Fresh Air Water to Beauty. IMPORTANCE OF PRUDENCE IN EATING A Bad Complexion Can't Be Cured From the Surface. soeenee 13s EXERCISE. IN THE OPEN AIR =e and Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. LL WOMEN CAN- not be beautiful, but all might be whole- some if they were so minded, and a whole- some woman is worth a@ dozen who are merely beautiful. I saw a woman the other day who might be both beautiful and wholesome; but she fs lazy, and so is neither. She is a wo- man who hates the trouble of going to bed, and then hates to get up. She likes to sleep in a warm room, and is mildly in- credulous of the sanitary value of fresh air. She is extremely fond of the pleasures of the table, and even the pangs of eternal indigestion do not deter her from eating scdden sweets and rich pastry, though they bring pimples and bad breath. She is too indolent to walk as a constitutional, and is upfortunately so well to do that she can ride in her carriage, so it is not necessary for her to walk. With every appliance for “artistic” baths, she dislikes the “trouble” of it all, and prefers musk and heliotrope perfumes to clean water and unscented scap. Her rooms are littered with priceless odds and ends picked up in the marts of the world, making a housemaid’s life a misery, and dusty velvet and silk hang- irgs keep out the sunshine that might ex- pese secrets of housekeeping, keep in the microbes of disease, and exclude fresh air, without which no human being can live long and retain his God-given qualities. In this unsanitary atmosphere of perfumed disorder, this woman, who is too lazy to be beautiful, spends her life. No woman, however handsome when she began it, could long live that kind of a life and retain her personal attractions, and the woman who wants beauty above every- thing else on earth can go a long way on the road to meet it by avoiding the mode of living just described. Cleanliness is next Godliness, but I some- times think that I would like to reverse the order, and I have no desire to seem ir- reverent either, but I don't see how people of uncleanly habits of body can have pure thoughts. One celebrated authority says that the skin is the thermometer of the bedy, showing by outward signs just what its condition is. Another says at greater lergt “The whole skin has a vast drain- age tract under its surface, while the lat- ter is, invisibly, a perfect sieve of minute pores, through which immense quantities of effete matter are being constantly dis- charged, unless these little openings are cbstructed. When such is the case, the pent-up matter is forced in unnatural direc- ticns or else festers_or hardens or remains to disfigure or discolor the cuticle or scarf skin. It is just under the latter that all impurities and discolorations rest, and it is also this scarf skin that in youth often be- ccmes rough, leathery looking, wrinkled and stippled—all because the glands under- neath it are inactive from deranged inner ecndition or a neglected outer one. There- fore, with the assurance of perfect health, the first step toward obtaining the desired soft, satiny skin may be suggested by para- phrasing an old quotation: “Let your first effort be baths! your second be baths!! your third, baths The Bath is the Thing. So, you see, my wistful sister, that if you would retrieve your lost charms or enhance those you have, bodily cleanliness will be the first step toward the happy end. If mothers—I fear that mothers will begin to hate me soon, but really, you know, they are responsible for so much, and shirk so much, that one has to be constantly prod- ding them, but as I started to say, if mothers would only teach their girls from the time the weanlings begin to toddle that bathing comes next to the Bible in the category of necessities of life, there would be thousands of beautiful women in the world where there are only hundreds now. There is nothing in the world whiter, sweeter or smoother to the touch than the alabaster skin of a well bathed baby. If the daily baths—and proper diet—were con- tinued without cessation till the Ghild was grown, it would be as fair to look upon as a piece of sculptured marble, tinted with the flush of life. But mothers begin to feed their babies meat and potatoes and pie before the poor little creatures have teeth to chew with, and follow up that diet with candy and coffee, swectened to sirup, and pork and pickles, pretzels and cheese, and other messes, burdensome to most adult stcmachs, and when the child breaks out with boils and eczema, and has convulsions and chills, colic, and bowel complaints, they always declare that they have not the slightest idea how in the world it all came about. The doctor could tell them, though. He knows that no surer way of augmenting his bills could be devised, and he tells them, too, that the sallow dead-looking skin needs baths and rubbing, along with attention to the diet. The overloaded stomach causes a sulky liver, and when the liver goes on a strike it deranges the whole system. This condition in a child ought to cause serious concern, especially when of frequent cccurrence, but it doesn’t. A mother will say, “Oh, she will outgrow it in-time,” but that is seldom the case, and when she gets ready to come out, she begins to hunt “skin invigorators,”” “beauty foods,”” lotions, washes and ointments to revivify a skin which tells only too truth- fully the tale of a disordered life. After trying everything advertised and recommended by her friends without effect she takes to cosmetics to cover up her life- less blotched skin and make herself pre- sentable, and the last stage is worse than the first. Of couse if one can’t have an “old master,” one must be content with a chromo, and unfortunately chromos are much more plentiful than the master- pieces. It should not be so, and it is not so necessarily. Qaite a Transformation. «I am reminded of a case that illustrates most forcibly my ideas of the importance of attending to one’s bodily health and cleanliness, if one would develop the high- er type of physical perfection. It 1s the case of a young girl taken at the age of twelve from a home of squalor and filth. She was sallow and gaunt and wolfish looking when rescued, and though not morally bad, she was absolutely ignorant of all ideas of personal cleanliness or any other attribute of culture dr intelligence. I thought her almost a hopeless case. Three years later I saw her again, and was astounded at the change. She was yet quite sallow, but her skin was clear and wax-like, and her gray eyes softened in expression, and no longer inclosed in red-rimmed lids; the scrofulous taint in her blood seemed to have disappeared, her un- Kempt black hair was most becomingly arranged in glossy braids, and the slow moving sullen girl had grown to be as quick and fight of foot as one could wish. The lady into whose hands Pepita had fall- en is—well, you might call her a “crank” on the subject of hygienic living, and for once in her life, having an excellent sub- ject. she was able to put all her ideas to work fcr exemplification, and Pepita’s im- proved appearance justified all her theo- Ties to the utmost. She put the child under the water spout, the first thing. Not exactly, but meta- phorically, and at stated hours each day the “flushing” process was continued, till all the bad outside was pretty well washed off. Meantime, she attended to the depart- ment of the interior. She gave the girl fresh, wholesome food, and all that she could eat comfortably, at regular intervals, and set her liver to doing its proper work. She insisted on regular hours for retiring and for rising, for exercise, and for work and recreation. In fact, Pepita’s life got to be as methodical as clock work, and now —why she is almost the prettiest girl at eighteen that I ever saw. And I believe that soap and water worked the reforma- tion. Soap and water in conjunction with @ lot of common sense rules well executed. Regular Habits Are Important. Too many women labor under the impres- sion that a bad complexion may be cor- rected from the surface, when in peint of fact not one case in ten can be helped one {ota without a physician’s prescription to start the internal organs to doing their proper work; then bathing will do the rest. Sowmetimes it is the heart, some- times the liver, often the kidneys are in bad condition, and nine times out of ten the digestive organs are impaired. If you happen to be ailing from any one of these you may*be sure that unless you have re- course to enameling to cover up your blotched skin there is nd cosmetic or lotion made that will help you in the least til you have set the skin sewers to do‘ their work in the proper way. It is very hard for those who are busily engaged to be regular in their habits, but if the old division of time could be adhered to it would simplify matters greatly. “Eight hours’ sleep, eight hours’ work, eight hours’ play,” would, if followed strictly, make a much happier world, but eight hours’ sleep i§ imperative for a woman who hopes to retain any symptom of good looks after thirty. If she can’t get it altogether, then she ought to take it in such slices as may suit her conven- fence. She wil find that more sleep will render her less nervous, and, of course, she knows that nervousness is a foe to good looks. Good looks have so many foes. A nap of ten minutes in the morn- ing, say at 10 o'clock, and another in the Spee will freshen her up wonder- ‘ully. Have regular hours for eating, particu- larly if you suffer from indigestion and sour stomach, and avoid “nibbling” be- tween meals until you have corrected the indigestion. You will find after you have your stomach in a healthy condition that you will not be wanting to ‘chew’ some- thing all the time. When you discover that certain foods disagree with you, leave them alone and eat something else. If you will persist in teasing your insides with things they don’t like you may ex- pect that your face will Soon show it. Of course, if you want to pay that price for it, in the language of the boundless west, that is your own funeral. But if you are seeking to clean up your system and begin living properly you will take heed of all such warnings. You must know that exercise of some kind is absolutely necessary to perfect bodily health, and that a healthy mental cordition depends upon bodily health. Ex- ercise in the cpen air is best, and brisk walking the very best. If you don’t seem to have time for regular exercise of that kind take it when you can, and substitute for its lack Indian clubs or dumb bells. Lower your windows from the top, so that you will have plenty of fresh air, and take ten minutes’ vigorous exercise with one or the other. Finish up the performance with some high kicking, and after a bath and a good rubbing down you will feel like a new being, and your blood will be circulating properly. You must not expect to see great changes in a week or in a month after beginning to reform. It may take two months; it might take six. Even then you ought to feel thankful it does not take a year, when you have spent twenty, perhaps, tearing down one of God’s noblest structures. And do pray take warning by your own awful example and when little children come to you rear them in the belief that to mistreat the body in any manner whatever is a crime! And it is a crime, for the mistreatment of the body may end in the murder of the soul. SENORA SARA. ——_— “A TALK TO NURSES.” Dr. S. Weir Mitchell Shows Them How They Can Best Attafm Success. From the Philadelphia Ledger, There was not sufficient seating capacity in the assembly room of the College of Physicians to accommodate all members of the Nurses’ Berefictal Association, who had gathered to hear Dr. 8. Weir Mitchell's “Talk to Nurses.” His discourse was a plain-spoken, yet kindly arraignment of the defects of nurses that had come under his observation, and a definition of the qualifications necessary to be cultivated by those wh2 would seek the ideal standard. After outlining the proper relationship that should be recognized @etween patient and nurse, he referred to causes of com- plaint preferred against some nurses by invalids. One nurse used-scent,” another related the peculiarities of a former pa- tient—a pointer as to what the present one might expect, &c. “A worthy nurse will know where her functfon ends,” continued Dr. Mitchell. “I remember the counsel of my father, early in my professional life, which was to ‘let patients make friends with you—not you with them.’ ” Dr. Mitchell said he was loath, in a sense, to talk thus unreservedly of the obvious failures connected with the small decen- cies of life, and he looked forward with dread to the day when the nurses might prepare lectures to physicians. Theoreti- cally, any one is gompetent to nurse any case or malady, but only the few are equal te the proper care of certain kinds of in- valids. A peevish, worn-out patient is the test of a nurse. He recalled one case where four nurses were overcome by the exas- perating crotchets of an invalid, and yet were succeeded finally by one who was equal to the emergency. Then he animad- verted upon those affilcted with hysteria, the opium habit, &c., and the gentleness, tact and firmness necessary to govern such cases. The ideal nurse must posses talents of heart as well as of head. Her aim must not alone be to become superior, but to help others, and thus she will finally help herself build up what is called character. She contracts good habits, which, by sec- ond nature, become great savers of energy and effort. To attain the ideal a nurse must also cultivate manners, personal re- finement and social conduct. Upon these points he laid great stress. She should also learn cooking other than in a per- functory manner. It is a qualification every woman should possess. No matter what her future may be, it never comes amiss. Had he known perfect nurses? Yes, sev- eral. Then the lecturer resumed his de- pictions cf the requisites desirable—good health, education, a knowledge of the hy- giene of house and home, control of tem- per, a sympathetic nature that uplifts, a self-respecting, good woman, &c. ‘There is a high ideal,” he said. “Try to reach it.” Especially should she have some distinct religion. There will come many a day when she will want it. . REPUBLICANS IN MISSOURI. ‘Their Chances of Success in the Com- ing Contents. “There are four candidates: Francis, Bland, Stone and Vest—himself to succeed Senator Vest,” remerked, to a Star report- er, @ prominent democrat politician of Kansas City, who is just now in Washing- ton to aid Controller Eckels in selecting a receiver for the Bank of Kansas City, just failed, ‘but if you want my square, honest view, it is that none of them will get it. I don’t think the coming colleague of Sena- tor Cockrell will be-a democrat at all. It looks cloudy for the Missouri democracy next time. I expect the ixepublicans will walk off with the legislature and the gov- ernorship. The governor will undoubtedly be Maj. William Warner] Representative ‘Tarsney’s predecessor in Congress from the Kansas City district. There is almost a certainty that the republicans will nomi- nate Warner, and I‘feel no more ‘ioubt of his election that Ido that I'm alive. As for Vest’s successop, it wilisbe Chauncey I Filley of St. Louis. “The trouble arises from the rent and torn condition of the Missouri democracy over silver. In the cities of St. Louis and Kansas City a strong gold, sentiment pre- vails, but out through the state in the smaller towns andi country districts the people are plumb wild for silver. In a state convention the silver;element would probably be the stronger..and the state ticket and platform of the democratic.party next time will be for free silver. I rather look, in fact, to see them name Dick Bland for governor. But Warner would beat him. All of the gold democrats all over the state would vote for Warner and against Bland. Warner would carry the cities of St. Louis and Kansas City by tremendous majorities. Thus is the Missouri democracy divided. “If the silver men make the platform and ticket the gold democrats will vote the re- publican ticket. If the gold democrats should be strong enough in the convention to build the platform and name the candi- dates the silver democrats will vote the populist ticket. In either event it would bring republican success, which brings me around to the statement again that Maj. Warner will be the next governor and Chauncey I. Filey the next Senator from the state of Missouri. I don’t like it, but it can’t be helpea&” WOMEN’S BICYCLE COSTUMES. Some of the Designs Favored by Riders.of the Wheel. It has been a long time getting to that point, but bicycle riding, after being as commer as driving in this city for years, has now become a fad, and the swell set is going vigorously to work to acquire the art. It is pathetically funny to see some of the fat old dowagers trying to manage a wkeel, than which there is nothing inani- mate on earth that seems as nearly ‘‘pos- sessed’ or as given to doing the unexpected thing. One can tear a horse’s mouth with the curb, if it gets “heady,” or beat it with the handle of the whip, if one’s un- skilled horsemanship makes one ridiculous, but a bicycle can cut up didos till kingdom come, and the only safp thsng to do is to dismount, if it has not already accom- plished that feat for you, and wait ill your temper has “ cooled, because the angrier you get, the wilder the machine will behave. But when sweet sixteen mounts the_ wiggly thing, and spins down the asphalt- ed avenues of this ideal city of the bicycle enthusiast—well, that’s different, you know. You look after her and smile, and think a lot of sentimental things, and, when she takes a header, run to snatch her from un- der a horse's heels; yet five years ago you probably stood on the corner and openly reviled a woman who would make “such an unscemly exhibition of herself.” It was in Washington that women first rode bicy- cles, and they had to undergo a sort of martyrdom, but the delightful exercise at- tracted one and then another, first as a healthful exercise, with small ‘expense at- tached, and then as a mode of getting about rapidly, and lastly as a method of relaxation, whieh physicians consider bet- ter than medicine for overworked nerves. Now there are thousands and thousands of riders in the national capital, and other cities e taken it up as a fad. The lat- ter won’t get the pleasure out of it that the Washington lover of wheeling will, how- ever, for nowhere else on earth are there such splendid avenues for the delightful exercise, Since society has taken up wheeling, It has become expensive. The pretty de- partment clerks, who have been riding a wheel for half a decade, got along very well with a machine that cost from seventy-five to one hundred and twenty-five dollars, and found no diffi- culty in riding -to of- fice in neat tailor- made gowns, blazer suits, and on special occasions in light lawns, or white duck. They didn’t tumble under carts, or lose their nerve and get tangled in the wheel on the approach of a fire engine, in fact, they very seldom thought of danger in connection with their accustomed attire. But a fad has got to cost money, or it wouldn't be a fad, hence silver-mounted wheels, and ‘wheeling gowns” fearfully and wonderfully con- structed, on “safety” lines, half way be- tween a Mother Hubbard and Turkish -trousers. Nobody could call the creations pretty, and when the unshapely legs. of some of the riders are exposed in tightly laced gaiters it is a sight to make gods weep and men scoff. There is a really neat wheel- ing costume, however, well suited to those who ride for pleasure or amusement only, and one that is, on the whole, rather pic- turesque. It consists of a moderately full skirt, which comes almost to the ankles, a loose waist, a close-fitting jacket, belied down behind, Turkish trousers, and high boots and overgaiters. This costume is the popular one in the Michaux Cycle Club in New York, and seems to be the favorite among the swell set of young wheeling women here. With this, a small close hat or cap is worn, and the hair should be smoothly and carefully arranged, so that it will not tum- lle down. In this costume a lady might appear anywhere,but while the second ex- ample of long belt- ed blouse and Turk- ish trousers fasten- ed at the knees is considerably worn, it is not graceful nor pretty, and it is ques- tionable whether any but sensation seek- ers would don it. Men do not admire that kind of a rig, whatever women may think of it. The third figure is a little better with regard to skirts, but the tight waist is not a good feature, and the fourth example is loudly impracticable. West End young ladies who are devoted to wheeling have very pretty costumes, but none of them, so far at least, wear unem- bellished trousers. Some kind of a skirt is worn in every instance. Miss Brice, who is a dainty little lady at all times is par- ticularly prepossessing in her bicycle cos- tume. Miss Cameron, Princess Cantacuzene, the Misses Wallack and Mrs. Henry May also have handsome bicycle costumes, ekirted, of course. The prevailing color for wheeling frocks is dark blue, with self stitching. Dark green finds some favor, and brown or gray is acceptable to some. Such a costume should be made of firm woolen fabrics, always be quiet in color, and the skirt should not be lined or stif- fened, If possible turn the hem on the outside and fasten down with rows of stitching; leave the inside of the skirt per- fectly smooth, so that thfere will be noth- ing to catch and throw the rider. If you have any desire to be considered a greceful rider of the wheel lay aside your tightly laced corsets and get a pair that are little more than a girdle, and adjust them easi- ly; then you will get some comfort out of wheeling. Never lace your boots to a skinfit about your legs and ankles, for that im- pedes the action of the muscles, and will make you lame, if it does not spoil your pedaling. For the same reason the long overgaiters that come to the knees are objectionable, because they are clumsy if loose and uncomforta- ble if tight. One bicycle enthusiast re- marked the other day that her “outfit,” including wheel and costume, had cost her nearly two hundred dollars! And she won’t get half the fun out of her expendi- ture that the girl in her modest blazer suit, sailor hat, mended gloves and easy shoes will. —————— The Old Tune. From the Chicago Record. From out a windless realm {t flowed, Fragrant and sweet as balm of rose; Upon fts breast soft sunlight glowed, ‘And still it glides where the jasmine An old, sweet tune of other days! Full of the tints of the autumn time; Scents of russets and August haze Gathered and fell like thoughts in rhyme. blows. ‘May never again that once-loved tune 1 Fall in my heart as a stream that flows! Let it run as it will, like a vine in June, ‘Fragrant and sweet as the summer rose. —EUGENE FIELD. -—see- - Hush Money. From the Chicago Intcr-Ocean. “What is thfS hush money I’ve heard so much about?” “Er—well, it's the kind that speaks for iteelf.” === Phyllis—“‘Have you seen that tovely sou- venir spoon Maud brought from England?” Reggie—“Yes; I saw him out walking with her yesterday.” The Late Emperor Wilhelm I. ¥% OF GERIIANY, ERSONALLY ac- knowledged the merits of the Gen- uine Johann Hoff’s : Malt Extract by a let- ter, and appointed Johann Hoff as Councillor of Commission, and decorated him with the’ order of the crown. As Beware of imitations. The § Johaun Hoft’s Malt Extract has this s ‘on neck label. Sole Agertts, New York. Eisner & MENDELSON Co. genuine ‘ignature gar “9 Some Suggestions That Will Help ‘Women to Have Stylish Gowns. Fashion is a stern mistress and shows few favors. A woman with long limbs and skinny frame, who happens to have money and position, gets en artistic idea about disguising her unlovely lines under flowing draperies, and befcre you knew it a lot of other women, alike skinny, but without the art ideas, have piled on the flowing skirts till the width of material flapping around the ankles becomes a burden, and then some creature sug- gests steels in the bo.tom of skirts, and forthwith steels be- come the fashion. If fashion would only be kind to thick and thin alike! But she won't. She only rec- ognizes one at a time, and never reaches any happy medium. The plump woman is in eclipse at present, under the wide skirts with their steel bindings, the stubby little Fi- garo jackets; and the perfectly ebsurd squat little bonnets, and if she is lacking in ability to adjust her attire to suit her proportions, she is not a bit pretty to look at just now. If you doubt that statement, just look around you and see for yourself. Then there is the woman who knows how to make a print hang like a peau de sole, but scarcely has the money to spare for the cotton, to say nothing of the silk. Her artistic soul is racked with longings for flaring skirts and flounced sleeves, Marie Antoinette fichus and Napolecn bonnets, to say nothing of the hundred and five acces- scries that are deemed necessary to the perfect toilet, and she knows in her soul that all she can afford is a pair of nice gloves and new walking boots, without which she would feel not dressed at all, no matter how fine her other feathers. Now, while fashion is arbitrary and cranky, and seems to bend all her efforts toward in- venting styles which only the rich can af- ford, she really does have sensible streaks eceasionally and present some economical as well as pretty designs. The Star pre- sents four examples for ‘“‘made-over” gowns, every one of them stylish. Almost every woman who makes any pre- tension to dressing well has in her ward- robe one of the light-weight wools. Very < likely it is drabbled around t he bottom, frayed, and possibly streaked and soiled in spots. Rip it and pick clear of threads, brush and shake till every bit of dust is out of it. Then look it over for spots and streaks. If it seems hopeless, take it to “the dyer’s, and if it is a good piece of material it will pay you to spend a dol- lar and a half that way. If the colors are fast—and vou can test that by washing a scrap of it—cleen it yourself. Get soap bark, and put your goods in water and wash, dry in the sun and iron damp with @ moderately hot and very heavy iron. From the wide upper part of your old skirt you can get enough to make gores for the flaring lower skirt of today. It will take three’yards of velvet'to make like the design. The wide band at the bottom allows for piecing the old skirt down, and if there are any discrepancies at the top of it, the chic little ripp’e to the bodice covers that. The vest and the big puffs are made of some soft, pretty material that will har- monize with the dress fabric, if you have not enough to make the sleeves of the same. The back of the bodice may have bands of velvet or not, as you like. The hat, as you see, is almost the shape of last year’s turbans. Take the Prince of Wales plumes off your win- ter hat, separate them and spread them out over your old turban, letting them curl back over the hair, and put two loops of the dress velvet in front. You can see for yourself that it is a pretty street dress, and a deft-handed girl has fashioned her Easter gown after it at a total cost of six dol- lars. She made it herself. If you have an old black silk and a light or bright cashmere or Henrietta cloth, a charming visiting gown could be made like the next design. The belt, back of the bedice and big sleeves are made of the light fabric, and that would just about use up the skirt of a common gown, and the skirt and front of the bodice are made of the darker material. If you want a bonnet to match this dainty gown, take your last season's flat, cr your little sister's, cut off the brim in the back or turn it up against the crown, stick a lot of perky ribbon bows on the outside and several bunches of flow- ers, and put a wreath of flowers inside; then fix it to tle under your chin. As the skirt is rather fuller than usual, it looks particularly well made of soft fabrics, and, of course, you know that almost all the cashmeres and Henfietta cloths, if all wool, will launder as well as muslin; so it would be easy enough to fix up such materials into this graceful gown. For a light silk gown that has got much soiled about the foot, an arrange- ment of lace bands 1s pretty. The wide creamn lace that comes so very cheap, and is so handsome, is used, with rosettes of ribbon, and if you have to piece the skirt much, you can make the entire front of lace, letting the bands set over on it with the ribbon rosettes. Of course, you could use the old bodice, as it is entirely covered by the cute little lace jacket, closed by rosettes. You might make the sleeves of some bright silk and cover with lace, or, if you have enough of the silk, just have the lower part of the lace. For an evening frock, one that is pretty and graceful, you can utilize one of your old silks after this fashion. Cut the neck down square, and cover it with a blouse effect of silk tissue or lisse or lace. Finish it around the ncck with ribbon and lace, puff some of the material over the sleeves and fasten at the elbow with ribbon bows, and make a ribbon belt. The skirt is sim- ply made and is without trimming, except the long ribbons caught with bows close at the foot. Some skirts have five of these ribbon ends, the longest being in front, and graduated in length around the sides. — Disqualified. From the Chicago Record. “You sey you are never sick?” inquired the impresario. “I never had a sick day in my life,” re- plied the lady who was ambitious to go on the operatic stage. “Then, madam,” replied the impresario, “I must discourage your hopes. You can never become a great prima donna.” € Lo BEST quatiry BOSTON BAKED BEANS. An exceptionally savory dish 10¢. for any meal. They're choice, 3-lb. Can. carefully selected beans, pre- pared in the most approved Bos- The most delicious and re freshing beverage. This is an ton manner. excellent quality, unfermented Orange and non-alcoholic wine, most Wine. reasonably pri S ly priced at 20 CENTS CALIFORNIA WINE . AND FRUIT CO., 1205 G street. "Phone 1641. apl2-28a MT TTT ° For the best-written advertisement relating to our Hat and Men's Furnishing business, g not exceeding 50 words, received before April 80, we offer: As first prize, 6 best Shirts; prize, Silk Hat or Umbrella; third Prize, one dozen E. & W. Collars, JOSEPH AUERBACH, t for John B. Bpecial Agent a JB. Bteteon & On, 623 Penna. Ave. MRE nee | eee ee eeeanneenennnnenee a Shampoo WITH ’ Pine Blossom Soap. An absolutely pure antiseptic Soap, pos- sessing powerful curative properties. It both cleanses and heals. Will effectually cure Dandruff. It softens the skin and is superior for shaving. Price 25 Cents, AT ALL DRUGGISTS. Foster Medicine Co., Baltimore, Md. ; 42d12r-9 ARARARARRRRRRRARRARRRAA WITMER’S, 1918 Pa. Ave. —special prices—and of an unusual sort are being quoted all this week on Gro- ceries and Wines. Our 88c. Coffee— @own to 84c. Our locally famous 3- year-old Va. Claret, 70c. a gallon! Fin- est Tomatoes, Gc. can. We sold 200 cases of them last week. Potatoes, 90c. @ bushel. California Fruits, 15¢. can. Orders promptly delivered any- where. aplz-2sa That Crowning —— BEAUTY, The hair—needs constant attention in order to keep it in perfect condition. If it’s faded, thin or lusterless, a wash is needed. GOL- DEN BACK HAI WASH above all othere— not a dye, not a patent concoction, but a preparation which imparts a soft, fluffy ap- rance to the hair, and positively cures ndruft, Used for ycars with unvarying suce cess by the nobility of England. Mme. Worth, 516 oth St. Bair Dressing Parlors. apl2-20d Relief That’s Reliable Can be bad for any foot ailment by_under- ‘olng our painless treatment. As Chiropo- Sists. we're unrivaled and assure the most satisfactory results in treating corns, buniong and other foot sorenesses. Small charges for attending feet regularly. PROF. J. J. GEORGES & SON, 1115 PA. AVE., Chiropodists. Hours—8 to 6;’Sundays, 9 to 1: apl0-10d traw ailors —the most useful all-round hats for la- dies ever invented. Of course you'll have ‘one this year—everybody will—but surely you're not going to buy the common kinds When you can get the “fine sort’ here 20 cheap? Beauties at $2.50. Willett&Ruoff’s,go5 Pa.Av. A New Spring Gown 1s the all-absorbing topic just now. Lots of ladies are not buying at present. They send their last season's gowns to us and have them cleaned. We em “new.” mak look fresh and Anton Fischer, 906 G St.. apl2-104 Scotch Zephyrs —choice new patterns, im delicate shades of pink, green and blue, All qualities— low prices. (LEADER — Linen Lawn (40 inches Wide), choice patterns, 12%c. yard. - J.B. Nalle, ioe" RTO HOOE, BROS. & 00. ¥ 8. ap9-204 1328 Do You Paint? If you do we want you to know that we have a full stock of Painters’ Sup- plies, Ready-mixed Paints, Floor Stains, Varnish, etc., for either inside or out- side work. Quality all right. Prices all right for = Geo. F. Muth & Co., 418 7th St. N.W., Successors to Geo. Ryneal, jr. aps-244 Take Your Clothes Off ‘The shelf—(your last summer sult, we mean), Send them to us. We'll clean them in the most thorough and satisfactory manner. Modest cba $1 for cleaning and the best results assured. L. H. Posey. 1110 14th St. Men's Suits. al2-10d HEH LIT oe oe oe oe oe