Evening Star Newspaper, December 15, 1894, Page 13

eqD: THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 15, 1894— - ART OF DRESSMAKING Some Features in the Designing of Stylish Gowns. INFLUENCE OF TEXTURE AND COLOR Unique Position of Washington in Following No Stated Style. FASHIONS IN TEXTILES ——_+ Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. H, YES; LOVE MY Oren and, though you would hardly be- ¢ leve it, knowing the number of dresses I send out every week, I never design two exactly alike, one of Washington's busiest and best dressmakers a few days ago. “I make a study of each customer and then I build the dress to show to best advantage her good points and to cover any defects or weak parts In her figure. For instance,here is the bodice of @ dress to be worn by a young lady of short, stout figure at her sister's wedding. I put these perpendicular bands of satin trimming down the front to give a narrowing effect. These sloping epaulets of the new blue miroir velvet have no break on the shoul- ders, but fall in straight lines down to the points, and so add height. The sleeves must of necessity be very full to’be fashionable, but they are draped in such a way as to suggest length rather than breadth. “This other bodice is part of the bride's traveling dress. I have puffed in front here this cerise velvet and put these bands of fur across the figure. Her complexion de- mands some color, and the fullness rounds out the uncomfortable hollows that too much stooping cver an easel has produced. The tone of the mink fur combines beauti- fully with the cerise of the velvet, and the Dluet of the broadcloth composing the cos- tui ‘ow, here is part of another bride's trousseau,” she said, as she turned to where her French tailor was pressing and pounding vigorously with a hot iron on a ‘wet towel over the seam of a golden brown coat—and, by the way, this hot iron and ‘wet towel process has much to do with the immaculate “set” of the collars and lapels of the coats, and the absence of the dis- tracting little wrinkles above the darts. Some Stylish Features. “This brown is an imported armure and will be made with a perfectly plain long coat, with double stitched seams and closed to the throat. The skirt has great width, as have all the skirts this season, its full- mess gathered in three very large organ- pipe pleats, stiffened with horsehair lining. A narrow band of marten fur will go round the foot of the skirt and will out- bg hap edi Re the coat. “The visiting dress that accom) les this is also an imported material of ‘k bluish 34 It ig made with slightly pointed and front bodice of the seamless, [ia mipeege pattern. An original feature on Prod the two tapering box pleats from shoulder bo im the back. These slightly of passementerie-trim- med bluet satin on either side of the fronts lieve the somberness of the costume and ve it a more dressy appearance. “The home evening dress in this set is of | age blue taffeta, covered with tiny lecks of yellow and white, The front of the pointed bodice of this ts entirely cov- ered with cream Irish int lace, which, With rosettes of the silk here and there, are the only trimmings on the dress. “And now me show you the chef oeuvre of the trousseau—the wedding ywn. Could anything be richer or simpler an this perfectly ey white motre? The uty of this is all in the fit and finish om in the richness of material. The long In is its only adornment. The bride to wear all this finery has her home in Wy- ming. Yes, I have customers so far away. belleve I have sent dresses to every state the Union. Just two weeks ago I sent two handsome costumes to a lady in In: dian territory. This extensive area for my work is, of course, natural In Washington, “I use mainly the French styles. I have them sent direct to me from Paris, and so lose no time. Indeed, I frequently have de- signs a whole season before the proper ma- fia to make them reaches this country. wish we had as skillful designers here as there are in Paris, and manufactured our own materials for the finest costumes. I Delieve in home production, at any rate, and would prefer to follow American fashions and use American goods. I do not want to disparage what we have now, and there are today eome fine designs In New York, but they have not yet attained the artistic perfection of the French artists. Dress Styles in Different Cities. “To a certain extent, each city has its own characteristics In dress. New York women follow the French fashions direct. The Philadelphia women adopt more the plainer English style of dressing. The En- glish fashions are, of course, the Paris fashions, hut modified to suit the simpler, more severe taste,generally, of the English people. Washington is, in this regard, unique. It follows no stated style in dress; or, rather, I should say, It forms its own modes from a combination of all the others to suit its peculiar functions and its cll- mate. There fs no large city in the coun- try where wemen of fashion dress as brightly in ‘ily as fashionably, ‘on in summer. To on a warm summer ut avenue, ar- y muslins of s me more of a dis- and withal hin of girls they do s day tayed various in t lors. of flowers than anything In this res: shington has more character ¢ nionable watering than of a metropolis. good eye for ‘tistic effect. of the proper mplexion and there are two lifications neces: Y, pecial artists, ell to gre in sele with ting material for a costume texture and tone both influence the general ef “If the nit is to be obtained, therefore, an experienced eye for color and texture must guide the choice of mate- rial. Then, every woman knows how very much her ap depends on the cut and fit of her gown. The draping must be in accordance with the requirements of her figure; pains must be taken in. the sewing, and lastly, though by no meang least in importance, the finishing of every detail must be as perfect as is possible. So, you see the making of a dress requires the occupation of as many specialists of varying degrees of artistic sense and prac- tical utility as the horse shoe nail, whose complicated construction was made famil- far to us in the old childhood’s adage. And s0 to make a harmontous whole I prefer to be allowed to suggest materials for my atrons, and indeed, as you may imagine, ng experience has mai expert. I am sometimes troubled at a piece of goods to make up a year or two old, though It may ndsome in itself, while if I had been I would have recommended quite fresh, for fashions Imost as often And it is so with trim- ew designs and new materials constantly being shown.” ~ Its Pace is Against It. p me really a tex- From London Ir order to prove the docility of the bull- @og the South Lendon Bulldog Society, which ts holding a show at the Royal arium, has caged one iarge dog with a small cat, and the pair ge with perfect amity—and the cat is uot in- side the dog, either. Nevertheless, we fear the effort is In vain. Until they can breed a new kind of bulldog, with a different kind of face on him, the generality of peo- ple will still credit him with a fearful amount of ferocity. in | as do the | | same results. along together | | habituated to it spasms, | like FOREFATHERS’ DAY. Rock. You have heard of the “Pilgrim Fath- ers,” who, in 1620, selled across the At- lantic in the Mayflower, and made their home in this country and named it Ply- mouth, You have heard, too, of Plymouth Rock, famous for having been used by those first settlers in landing, and on that account visited every year by thousands of strangers from far and near. On a certain day in the year 1742, a hun- dred and twenty years after the town be- gan, the little Plymouth children trudging to school or skipping to play would have noticed a great stir in the place. They would have seen people flocking to the shore and have heard them talking earnest- ly about Elder Faunce, and his request for a “chair,” and about what he was go- ing to do dov n by the Rock. Now, in 1742, when Elder Faunce was a very old man, far into the nineties, a re- port reached him that a wharf was to be built which would partly ccver the rock. Think of it! A wharf on Plymouth Rock! Elder Faunce did think of it, and so anx- jously that he sent down asking that ho might be brought to the shore and have a chair set for him on “Cole's Hill,” close by the rock, and he would then and there identify it as the one used by the pilgrims in landing, and give proof thereof. It must have been an interesting scene men, women and children gathered on thi brow and slope of that hill of sacred mem- orles, looking down upon the actual spot where first trod those pilgrim feet, or off upon the blue sea where only 120 years before lay anchored the Mayflower, soon to sail away to England, watched, no doubt, from that very hili by the little flock it left alone in the wilderness! All this was not very far back, and it was no doubt brought vividly to mind, for the venerable elder, sitting in the chair which had been set for him, pointed to the rock and declared to the assemblage that his mother, one of the first colony, told him the pilgrims used that rock in landing. His testimony was recorded and most care- fully preserved. Removal of the Rock. This remarkable event of 1742 gave the rock a sure identification. Thirty years more brought our country to its second beginning, the period of the revolutionary war, which freed us from England. Here, too, the rock bore its part. The account Says that the Plymouth people were “so pervaded by the glorious spirit of liberty that they resolved to consecrate anew the sacred relic,” and ‘use it as fuel to in- crease the flame of indignation already burning against the mother country.” They declared it should be removed to “Liberty Pole Square,” in the center of the town, “where it would be continually in- spiring the citizens with thoughts of free- dom.” Many yoke of oxen stood ready to draw it, when, lo and behold! the rock split across! This ‘calamity, however, was de- clared a sure sign of a coming separation from England, and the upper portion, weighing some two or three tons, was con- veyed in triumph about a quarter of a mile, to Liberty Pole Square, now Town a. t was no doubt the enthusiasm of those revolutionary times which moved leading Plymoutheans to form an “Old Colony Club,” in 1769, a few years before the war. From the formation of this club came the first forefathers’ day celebration, on the a of December of that year. There were resses, a procession, cannon firing an @ public dinner. ir Restored to Its Old Pince. But another change awaited our much revered traveler. It occurred many years after the revolution. By this time the country had grown old enough to appreci- ate its beginnings and all connected there- with, and it came to be said in Plymouth and elsewhere that “Forefathers’ Rock” should no longer abide in the market place, ‘mid the common doings of the common crowd, and that the vacant space in front of Pilgrim Hall, a building which treasures innumerable pilgrim relics—cabinets, arm- chairs, pewter platter, weapons, books, dishes, pictures, needlework, cooking uten- sils, etc.—that here would be the most fit- ting resting place for “the noblest relics of them all The second removal took place on Inde- pendence day of 1836. The citizens formed @ long procession, headed by the children of the schools. The rock was afterward inclosed in a symbolic fron or into which were wrought the names of the “forty-one” Pil- grim Fathers who signed the original com- pact in the cabin of the Mayflower previous to landing. Fifty years later that ruler of human af- fairs—public opinion—decided that the only proper place for the rock was on top of the unmoved portion, just where it was first landed upon. And thither it was conveyed without ceremony, and there it now re- poses, protected with a high railing, with gates, which are left open during the day for the entrance and exit 6f modern pil- grims, whose number is legion, over 15,000 names having been registered at Pilgrim Hall during the July, August and Septem- ber of "D4. ——_+-e+____ OPIATES FOR CHILDREN. Present Danger and Subsequent Evil ef Quicting a Child With Dru, From the St. Louis Republic. Love of stimulants is inherent in very few children, but is a case inculcated dur- ing infancy; and not alone by nurses, but by mothers, who, through ignorance or in- difference, run terrible future risks for sake of a little present quiet. It is in the medicine that the harm lies. No matter what the ailment may be, the remedies are near kin, drops, cordials, paregoric or laudanum, given with the intention not so much to cure as to soothe the child and in- duce sleep. The prime factor of all these compounds is opium. Now, opium itself is a wonderful medicine, but a skilled practitioner hesi- tates to give It to a child because its re- sults are impossible to foresee. While 10 drops of laudanum scarcely affects one child, it might, and often has, killed an- other. Paregoric {s Iaudanum and camphor, with two other ingredients, and while not so dangerous, yet it possesses great possibili- ties for evil. Drops and cordials are much like paregoric, only stronger, and soothi sirups also contain opium in some form. I do not imply that these medicines should never be used for children, On the contrary, paregoric, especially, is essen- tially a child's remedy. But it takes a mighty sensible mother or nurse to tell when it is necessary to be taken. To put a child's crying down to hunger or illness is tradition of the nursery that has sur- vived many a better theory, and bids fair to outlast many more. A little discipline, rightly applied, often effects a rapid and lasting cure for unexplainable tears. Ba- as a general thing, do not need medi- cines other than pure air, cleanliness and nutritious food. The oniy time when a mother is really excusable for drugging a child is when one sleepless night has followed another ks. Few babies sleep well until their second year, and when a mother has no one to believe her, and, moreover, has both hands full of work through the day, it 1s no wonder she acts against her better judgment. Though did she but know it a harmless nerve sedative will serve the pur- pose far better. Bromide of potassium put up in a few grain powders, dissolved one in a wine glass of water and given the child through the day and evening, will insure good, healthy sleep. {f the dose is too large the child will become languld and break out in pimples, but no harm will come of it. After a couple days’ treatment stop giving it, but put the child to bed at the same hour in a cool, dark room, and very likely he will fall asleep from force of habit Habit is the keynote of successful train- ing for children. Regular hours for meals, regular bed hours, regular exercise! A regular bed hour strictly adhered to will do more to encourage sleep than medicine. A warm bath on retiring and a dark, cool room are better soporifics than opiates. Opium taken in any form produces ihe A little stimulates and seems to impart great vitality and brain power. The nerves are not rasped by little things and the system seems invigorated. A mod- erate dose to those unaccustomed to its use is almost certain death, while to those convulsions and Children given become stupid, stolid and sickly, dull in lessons and uninterest- ing in conversation. A taste for liquor seems to follow as a matter of course, and the result in many cases is Just what is seen every day. No terms are strong enough to inveigh against this practice that has sapped the strength and life of many a child and killed off many more whose deaths have been attributed to spasms and teething complaints. complaints _ resuit. opiates continually e of the Adventures of Plymouth The “Procession of Kniv. DINNER CUSTOMS. Often a Puzzle. From Harper's Bazar. At an informal dinner not long ago the question of the “procession of the knives and forks” was discussed at length. Be- side one’s plate is always placed, in for- midable array, a number of knives and forks, and in these days of luxurious bo+ longings and ingenious devices, these com- mon articles of every-day use assume unique and inconceivable forms and shapes and often puzzle the most experienced “diners out” as to their various purpose: To one accustomed to novelties of this sort it is sometimes extremely difficult to know which fork to take up, and the only way to avoid making a mistake and caus- ing self-embarrassment is to keep one’s eye on the hostess and follow her lead. The forks should be so carefully and systemat- ically arranged that all one has to do is to use them in rotation, beginning at the one next the plate, or at the one farthest from the plate. In certain western towns the rule is to “eat in,” expressed in their local vernacular—that is, to begin with the oys- ter fork, which is at the head of the line, and to tako them as they are placed, which is presumably in the proper order. If the dinner is a long one, and consists of maay courses, it is a mistake to attempt to put sufficient knives and forks for every course on the table. This makes too much of an array, fills up too much space, gives a clut- tered appearance to the table and is entire- ly unnecessary. Especially difficult would it be to do this if one’s outfit of smal! sil- ver were limited, as is very apt to be the case, particularly in a moderate-sized household. For ice cream, forks are uni- versally used, although it is 2 good idea to have a spoon also, as some persgns still prefer it. Charm of Individuality. It is delightfully refreshing to go to a house where the hostess has not changed ker mode of serving dinners, but still ad- heres to what are now called “oid-fash- fored” notions, such as having butter with the bread, the meat carved on the table and vegetables placed on the table also, with home-made ice cream and cake, or a good home-made dessert, nuts and raisins, and a glass of fine old Madeira, and vari- ous good substantial dishes, which we are rowadays accustomed to seeing replaced by French entrees, sent in from a caterer. To have individuality in one’s manner of living is quite as distinguished as doing ex- actly as one’s neighbcrs do. Unfortunately there are only few women who have the courage of their convictions, but those few are generally much admired and respected, provided, of course, they do not carry their ideas too far. It has been my privilege to dine in Philistine New York at houses where the dinners weré announced at 6 o'clock. They were served by a venerable cid butler who had lived in the family twenty-five to thirty year: The silver used was family plate, and everything very simple, but elegant. Absolutely no at- tempt at display of any sort was made, nor was there any effort to emulate the richer neighbors. Good talk, refined man- ners and sweet simplicity made the even- ing a delight, and gave one a sense of cecrrfort and repose which is uncommon in cur rush-and-tumble city life. The care of silver {s an essential part of the education of the waitress or butler, and nothing adds so much to the beauty of a dinner table as brightly polished plate; it also reflects credit upon the housekeeper. It is unwise to allow a servant ever to lapse in this respect; sho should have a certain day set apart ¢ach week for clean- ing the silver, and this should be dore thoroughly and cheerfully. Hot water and plenty of soap generously and regularly used will lessen the labor of rubbing, and each night, when the table is laid for din- ner, the knives and forks and spoons should be wiped with a fresh chamols. With this constant attention silver may be kept looking almost like new. Styles in Glass. Glass, too, must not be neglected, and tumblers or glass of any sort should not be placed upon the table without first be- ing polished with a fine linen glass towel. Cut glass 1s not seen so commonly as for- merly. It has latterly beer. the fashion to use different styles of glass for each course or for cach kind of wine. A tall, graceful green hock glass made in Germany fs nice for Sauterne, a delicate Venetian gldes for champagne, a quaint old English glass for sherry and water tumblers or goblets of Bohemian or Austrian ware all go to make a table look odd and “dressed up.” Sets of china are no longer necessary; each course has its own individual style. ‘There is an endless varlety from which to choose; and even with a small amount of money one can make a very pretty selection. For breakfast and for luncheon, on the con- trary, sets of china are used, and nothing can be daintier or more suitable than the old “willow pattern’ or the pretty and delicate Dresden designs. soe REAT ORGAN. NEW YORK’S The Largest on the Continent Recent- ly Erected, From the New York Herald. Workingmen put the last finishing touches on the great organ in St. Bar- tholomew’s Church last week, and the work of construction on this mammoth piece of muscical mechanism, which has occupied the last fifteen months, ts now complete. The organ in St. Bartholomew's {s not only the largest organ in the city, but the largest church organ on the con- tinent. If the echo and stage organs of the huge affair in the Auditorium of Chi- cago" be included in the estimate, that in- strument contains a slightly greater num- ber of stops. Otherwise they are about equal in size. Neither of these instruments can com- pare in point of the number of pipes with the monstrous contrivance which was con- structed and put up in Sydney, Australia. The Sydney organ has, however, been only a moderate success in its genera! features, while in some of its radical departures it has been a practical failure. It is safe to say that in the brilliancy of its effect, in its magnificent tone and in its marvelous consiruction as well, the completed instrument in St. Bartholomew's takes rank with the two or three finest organs in the world. To readily appreciate all the varied ca- pucities of the completed organ, its deli- cate shadings, its superb tone mass, and the magnificence of its crescendo peals needs only that {ts manuals be swept by its organist. But its unique mechanical con- struction and the varied devices and means by which its effects are achieved are re- vealed only by a careful examination of its almost bewildering details. ‘The construction of the organ involved at the outset a problem often met with and rot always successfully overcome—namely, that of buflding up from an old founda- ticn. St. Bartholomew's already contained a fine organ placed in the gallery in the rear of the church. When it was decided to enlarge, it was determined to build two other organs on either side of the chancel and to bring all three divisions not only into perfect harmony, but under the con- trol of a single key desk. This last was attained by a wonderful system of elec- trical coupling, which has been applied to the entire key, pedal and stop action. A Successful Development. The idea of building an organ in parts and locating it in different portions of the church is by no means new. Neither is the idea of applying electricity to the action instead of the old fashioned and clumsy mass of levers and rods. But the new organ represents a successful development of both of these ideas perhaps beyond any- thing hitherto attempted. ‘The largest division of the organ Is plac- ed in the gallery immediately above the main entrance, and contains what is tech- nically known as the solo organ, together with parts of the great, swell and pedal organs. The chamber at the south of the chancel contains the entire choir organ, and another part of the great and pedal organs, while the third section, located in the chamber on the north chancel, con- tains the pedal dulciana and part of the swell. The console, or key desk, is situated in the choir underneath the south chancel dl- vision. This latter is, on the whole, one of the most wonderful things which I have ever seen. Perhaps only an organist can fully appreciate its possibilities. Tpere are four key manuals and eight-seven™speak- ing” stops, twenty-three couplers, nineteen adjustable combination knobs, and twenty pedal movements. This key desk has con- trol over a total of 5,550 pipes. FOR CHILDREN’S STOCKINGS. Toys That Are Not Only Ingenious, but Cheap. “Never were there so many amusing tin mechanical toys before,” said the proprietor of a shop that deals largely in playthings, “and they are astonishingly cheap. You have no idea of the variety we have for 5 and 10 cents each, and for a quarter quite elaborate toys may be purchased, such as the climbing monkey that is the rage just now, and from which the inventor is likely to clear quite a handsome forturie. “There is 2 jumping jack for only 5 cents, whose grimaces are fast bringing him into favor. He is of tin, you see, and is painted in motley colors. With one hand you grasp him firmly by the waist from the back and with the other hand push up and down his high hat. This works the mechanism, and his arms and legs move rapidly, and his eyes roll wildly. He 1s really very comical. ‘We have frogs that jump when they are wound up, and grasshoppers that hop, and dogs that walk, for 10 cents each. This kangaroo, that, with life-like hops, goes down his inclined board, is only 15 cents. His moving is entirely a question of nicely calculated balance, and a zoologist, who saw him the other day, declared that he had the real marsupial motions. This performing bear costs a quarter. When wound up he beats cymbals and plays a tattoo on his drum at the same time, and with great energy and determination. A very similar bear appears in this toy walk- ing across the floor and pushing a pig, whose hind legs he is grasping, ahead of him. When wound this yellow and green parrot stoops over on his stand as if to take a cracker, and spreads its wings and tail. Some of the new playthings are work- ed like tops, with the aid of a plece of string that is wound about a knot, and when pulled off starts the little wheels in motion. This very dignified lady is worked in this way, and, when wound, will walk quite a distance across the floor. “The aquatic toys are very clever. We have a number of boats of a variety of builds, and these are always popular with paddles instead of wheels is newer. ‘The machine is kept afloat by two air-filled cylinders that look like miniature buoys. When wound up he works his treadles and starts off most energetically across the pend. Some of these are tandems and have two figures to work them. “We have whole sets of doll kitchen furnt- ture that sell for as little as 5 cents a box, and I have never seen dolls nearly so cheap as they are this year. Here are some lovely French dolls that open and shut their eyes and have exceptionally pretty hair; they are elaborately and very stylishly dressed, too, and stand about eighteen inches high. They only cost 98 cents. A very few years ago they would have sold for $4 or $5. “For 1 cent a little bisque doll may be bought, with real blonde hair hanging in a long braid down her back. Here are some colored ladies at the same price to attend her. They also have real hair. There are, in fact, so many cheap toys this year that a child's Christmas stocking may be filled to his or her entire satisfaction for 50 cents, ard with $1 to spend Santa Claus may be quite extravagant.” — TALKING UP TO HIS LEVEL. The Society Bud's Mistake in Convers- ing With Her Literary Caller. From the Buffalo Express. ‘There is a young woman over onthe west side who has been in society but a portion of aseason. The other evening she was at a function and she was introduced to a yeung man who has had some success in Uterature. The bud stood more or less in awe of him after she learned who he was. The literary young man was much im- pressed with the beauty of the bud, and he asked permission to call. This was given him. The next day the bud got to think- ing over the function and remembered the request of the young man. She went to a girl friend and said to her: “L met Mr. L— at the ball the other night and he asked me tf he could call on me. I told him he could. Now, I'm awfully worrted to think what I shall talk to him about. Of course, he’s a literary man, and he will not care to talk society and all that, and really, I don’t know a single thing I can converse with him about that wil Interest him, and I do not want Bin to go aw bored. What on earth shall I talk abou! The friend sympathized with her and told her that she might talk about’ Ulstory or some such thing. Filled with this idea, the bud went home and boned up on his: tory. A few nights later the Hterary man call- ed. He was ushered into the parlor and the bud came down In a few minutes. “Good evening,” he said. She bade him good evening. “Awfully hot, isn’t it?” She thought that it was. ‘There was some more conversation this original strain, when he suddenly launched out like this: “What a delightful party that was the other evening, wasn’t it? I don't know when I have enjoyed my- self more. Everything was perfect. There was no crush. Just enough were there to make it enjoyable. The music was deiight- ful and the refreshments superb. Really, T shall often think of that ball as one of the most charming I have ever had the — of attending in Buffalo. I think that——" During these remarks the bud had wig- gled about nervously on her chair. She was on the point of interrupting half a dozey times, and could refrain no longer. With a fierce Httle laugh she broke in: “Oh, yes, but wasn’t that sad about Mary Queen of Scots?” The literary man gazed at the bud in blank amazement. Seeing that he did not answer her, the bud continued in a theat- rical manner: “They cut off her head, you know The symposium broke up just here, and to this day the literary man thinks the bud crazy, while the bud hasn't an idea what to think about the literary man. - see German Beer Mug Craze. These quaint tankards are Interesting both from thetr antiquity and beauty. The Teuton, unlike the American, did not con- fine his love for art to picture galleries and museums, but brought it into his datly life —uniting beauty with utility in his house- hold. The beer mug became the preserver of traditions, wise sayings and family deeds, as well as affording scope for purely decorative fanctes. ‘Though only of stone, yet wrought by the hand of the artist, these old mugs have outranked more pre- tentious material in beauty of design and execution, their chief charm being the sharpness and decision of the cutting. ‘The ware may be divided into two classes —gray and brown, or fine and common stone, the fine striking fire from flint; that called Gros de Fiandre, why, nobody knows, as it 1s a strictly German product and never saw Flanders, is susceptible of the most intricate and frogtlike carving. ‘The white ware is from the Rhine, Cologne, Coblentz and Holland. ‘A common form of the early jug had a bearded head opposite the handle. Gray beards or Bellamum they were called, in derision of a fat cardinal of that name, who, giving offense to the dissenters in the lowlands, was thus perpetuated in stone, and has now become an object of eager search to the enthusiastic collector. Armorial bearings, emblems and tro- phies of the chase, medallions, mottoes, gnomes, bead and scroll work, figures and quaint inscriptions, were the favorite dec- orations for the old German tankards, nor must the famous Apostle mugs of cream stone be forgotten, especially as the mod- ern shopkeeper does such a thriving trade in spurious Apostle mugs painted in oll colors; in fact, since the American craze the thrifty German has sent over beer mugs in shiploads; the most of them rough and coarsely made, with none of the artistic qualities of the real mng to recom- mend them. ‘he collector must be wary, and trust the evidences of his senses more than the glibness of the bric-a-brac dealer, and if he cannot tell ofl paint from enamel he will fall a victim to one of the most common frauds. While none of the very rare mugs are on the market, there is still a very good sup- ply to draw upon, thanks to the German custom of putting aside a mug after a short use, the connoisseur never resting until he had a mug for every day in the year, and a few extra ones for holidays. re 4 NEW MEXICO BAD MAN. Traits of the Real Article and Those of the Man Who Tries to Be Bad. From the New York Sun. “Bitting in Bob Young’s saloon at Pueblo with that gigantic ‘old-timer,’ Davenport, once of Cimarron,” said the western sur- veyor, “he entertained me with some quaint and tragic episodes of New Mexico life and death tn the 70's. One was about @ Thanksgiving day. In the afternoon the cowboy contingent came in to town to cel- ebrate the day. They were showing the effects of the loads they had made it their first business to tocumulate. One fool- ishly drunken fellow from the range, who had got separated from his gang, had strayed into this saloon, and was bracing himself upright, with his elbows upon the counter. None of the men playing cards or drinking quietly at the tables paid any attention to his veporings. From time to time he jumpea up and kicked his heels to- gether to make his spurs rattle, and an- nounced in defiant tones that he was ‘only @ cowboy, but he was as good as any man living, and if any man didn’t like his talk he might go to hades.’ “That fellpw isn’t a bit bad, though he tries to be,” remarked Davenport, con- temptuously. ‘The real desperado doesn’t behave in that sort of way. If you want to know how a genuine shooting man acts take Clay Allison of New Mexico. We'd be standing, for instance, in Lambert's bar- room at Cimarron drinking. There were plenty of men in those days who would be too glad to take Allison's life if they could only get @ sure drop on him, and he knew it; but he would stand there quietly talk- ing with me, to all appearances as uncon- cerned as to danger as we are now. Only as he drank and talked you could see that, without turning his head, his eye—he had an eye like cold, chilled steel—was taking in the movements of everybody who went and came in tae bar room. He had an old grudge against Reinhart, the sheriff, and it was commonly supposed that this’ feel- ing would lead to the death of one of them. At sight of Reinhart Allison’s bad blood would get to working, and he would say to me in an undertone, so full of intense hatred and purpose that it was appalling: “*Do you see that man? I’m going to kill him today.” “**Well, a man In my place needed only to say the wrong word to bring on an en- counter then and there by which Reinhart would lose his life, for he was no match with Allison in a man to man pistol scrap. His only chance lay in his having his sher- iff's posse about him. Allison lHked me, and I knew that the only way to turn him from his purpose was to appeal to his better nature. So I would say to him: ““That's all right, Clay, so far as yot and Reinhart are concerned, but there’ another thing to be thought of. Just lool at those who are dependent on him. He's yot a daughter thirteen years old and two little children, a boy of five and a girl of seven, to whom she has to act as a mother. Think what will become of them if you kill their father.’ ““‘Well, that view of the case would take the idea of killing Reinhart from Allison's mind for that time, and the day would go by without any trouble, “Speaking of Clay Allison reminds me of how he called me to a standstill mighty sudden one night at Cimarron. He had come into town after dark, and put up at Lambert's and had gone to bed early. No- body locked their doors at night In New Mexico in those days, but depended for safety on their firearms. Some of us boys were drinking and skylarking late that night in the bar room, and in dodging away from my comrades after a scuffle I ran into the hellway, upstairs, and bolted into the first room I came to, supposing it to be empty. At my first step across the threshold I halted at the command of a stern voice that came from the bed in the corner of the room. “Stop! Stop right there!’ 1 recognized the voice as Clay Alli- son's. “For God’s sake, don’t shoot I managed to gasp out. ‘It's Davenport.” * trike a light and show yourself, but don’t you move from your tracks,” he said in a voice a little less savage. “I struck a match, and Its light showed me Allison half sitting up in bed, just as he started up at the sound of my ‘bursting into the room, both his hands grasping the butt of a cocked revolver that pointed straight at my head. Of course, he low- ered it then, and we settled the matter of my waking him with a couple of drinks. But it was well I hadn't taken a second step into the room before he knew who I was, for I should have caught a bullet from a pistol that never missed. TH see a ENGAGED GIRL. How Soctety Insists on Placing Her in a False Position. From the Philadelphia Press “She should be labeled, ‘Lass,with care,’ says the wovld-be-funny gnat in “Alice in Wonderland.” He might have been speak- ing of the engaged girl instead of Alice, so appropriately does the phrase fit into the common notions regarding her. Usually to echo Bunthorne’s wail, “O, hollow, hollow!” over our social conventions is to give bat- tle to windmills powerful enough to blow Don Quixote, horse, lance, armor and all, up into the air, never to come down again; yet when I look on the engagement as It is popularly understood, then remember that we still have some happy marriages, I find the strongest proof of a divinity that shapes our ends, repairs our blunders, and holds back our misguided feet from the pit we are wildly anxious to struggle into. Else what would ever become of the en- gaged girl, and that essential but minor adjunct to the mise en scene, the engaged man? From the moment the ring is seen spark- ling on her hand, the “fortunate-unhappy” damsel, the object of her juniors’ admira- tion, her sisters’ cynicism and her contem- poraries’ blended pity and envy, is cribbed, cabined and contined in a set of petty re- strictions, survivals of the unfittest part of barbarism, if we only knew it. Long ago, when life was with beautiful sim- plicity divided equally between fighting and courting, public opinion naively assumed social intercourse between the two sexes to have but one end—that of love-making. The or its remnant, lasts today, under widely different social ‘conditions; ‘conse- quently Juliet, from the day she is labeled neee, Please Do Not Handle,” is not expected to dance with other men, to re- ceive them as callers, or to accept reason- able attentions from them. - So far from mixing with other people in soc y, and thus gaining valuable side- lights on one another's characters, thé “dead-to-the-world”” young woman and her young man illustrates La Salle witty sa: ing that “Love is an egotisin of two” giving up thelr evenings to an unlimited solitude a deux, which in a brief engage- ment is only to be expected, but In a long ong frequently becomes a perfunctory tie under which Romeo chafes, as in the case of the young 1 vho broke his engage- ment because “‘she treated him like a sery- ant-girl—gave him only his Thursdays and every other Sunday off.” To the vexed question of long engage- ments Mr. Augustine Birrell contributes a suggestion in his mild observation that “Of ali the wrongs women suffer at the hands of men that of not marrying them is the one they say should find it easiest to forgive.” ‘Ihis, a new and neat varia- tion on the pins which “have saved a gre: many lives by not being swallowed,” answers the common objection to the pro- tracted betrothal. The matter is self-regu- lating; would not the man who kept a girl waiting a year, month or day longer than was necessary be a still worse inve: ment as husband than as fiance? It may paradoxically be said that her loss is her eternal gain. The same may be said of the much- croaked-over modern tendency to break engagements which tn older times would have been carried out to the bitter—often very bitter—end. People get considerably muddled in talking gf the sacredness of the marriage tie and that of the engage- ment tie in the same breath. They haven't the slightest connection, An en- gagement is not, as many people seem to think, a mere conventional delay to satisfy proprieties und get the trousseaux ready, but a probation during which Romeo and Jullet test the strength of their affection before what Rudyard Kipling grimly calls “the ‘long-as-ye-both-shall-live’ curse from the altar rails” yokes them into a plow, from which there is no looking back. Society has nothing to lose, save possibly @ pretty spectacle and a ‘slice of bride cake, that it should so acrimoniously ob- ject ‘to people's pleasing themselves in a matter that only concerns themselves; in- deed, they must do so if it is to give tho marriages at which it assists by its pres- ence even the brief guarantee of the cheap jeweler, whose stock I once saw labeled with unconscious sarcasm: “Wedding rings, 25 cents—warranted one year.” TWENTY-FOUR PAGES. A Story from Georgetown Which Will Interest Everyone. “I bave been affiicted with nervous debility ‘for several years, trembling on the slightest excite- meut, and suffering the greatest mental agony. I was in constant fear that something was about to happen to me, and was unable to obtain the proper amount of sleep and rest at night, woke unre- freshed in the morning and experienced a constant gloomy depression; the hts of my weakened powers were ever present added to my despon- dency, which was aggravated by the consciousness that my follies and excesses alone were responsible for my awful condition. My nervous shattered and my will power and aml gone. 1 had so often failed to obtain relief, either from many physicians who had treated me, or the advertised remedies I had purchased and tried, that 4 at last reached the conclusion that suicide alone could end my troubles. ‘Thank God for my salvation, which came lke an inspiration. After having read of the many wonderful cures perform- ed by Dr. Walker, 1 concluded to make one more effort, ai t to him and placed myself in his hafds. 1 am happy to say I commenced to mproy from the very first day, and. my improvement since has been steady and continuous. My nerves have wholly regoined their former strength, and the trembling, which almost entirely incapacitated me at times from my work, has entirely ceased. I sleep well and wake refreshe my inind has re- gained its cheerfulness, and life is again filled with hope and ambition. 1' cannot speak too highly of Dr. Walker, and cheerfully recommend him to all persons afflicted with disease. I reside at 8832 KR street northwest, Georgetown. Have lived in Washington fifteen years, and am by trade a plas- terer. ‘Signed: “ROBERT L. JOHNSON.” 3. L. Brower, Bsq., a gentleman well known in the District, whose word is as good as his bond, says: “I have suffered from aggravated constipa- tion, piles and kidney trouble for seventeen years, unable to obtain permanent relief. A friend per- suaded me to place tayself under the care of Dr. Walke:, and bis trectment was wonderful. From the very first day my improvement has been steady and continuous. My home is in Milesburg, Centre county, Fennsyivania, but I am at present ‘residing at 27 E street northwest."’ No less remarkable than the above are a hun- dred other cases that might be cited illustrating the unprecedented success of Dr. Walker in the treat- ment of all disorders of the brain and nervous system, diseases of the skin and blood, catarrh, asthma, consumption, dyspepsia, malaria, rheuma- tism, neuralgia, hemorrhoids, diseases of women, joss of vitality, and all affections of the lungs, throat, heart, ‘Iver, stomach, kidneys, bladder, bowels ana other organs. Young or middlo-aged men suffering from the effects of their excesses should consult Dr. Walker, who has been the means of restoring hundreds of such unfortunates to health, strength and happiness, Dr. Walker may be consulted free of charge, personally or by letter. His well-known ganitarlum at 1411 Pennsylvania avenue, adjoining Willard’s Hctel, 18 open daily for consultation and treat- ment.’ Uttice hours, 10 a.m. to 5 p.w.; Wednesday and Saturday evenings, 7 to 8; Surdays, 10 to 12, Charges for treatment very low. All interviews and correspoalenee sacrediy eon. fidential. No cases made public without conseut of patients. It —we've prepared this little lst Of leather articles prices. Remember, with us “leather is leather."’ We don't handle the cheap, poor sort of goods, for half of it is not leather at but te simply made to look it. This ts a leather store, and there are no lower prices for same quality of goods in this elty. PA Shopping Bag Free With Each $2 Purchase. —Shopping Bag 1s of seal grain Teather, with satin top. Pocketbooks,25c.to$8 all Jeatuers—sterling silver mounted. Card Cases, in all leathers, ‘sterling. 25e. to $4.00 Bill Books, in all all, lke leathers « Letter Books. Cigar Cases, leathers, from Cigarette’ Cases, all leathers, from. 7c. Purses, in all leathers + Be. 01 Books, in leathers, from... Writing Tablets, “in all leathers,from. T5e. Shopping and Chate- laine Bags, in all 7.00 5.00 t all leathers, from... 50c. Dress Suit Cases, in all leathers, from. 3.98 Silk Hat Roxes.... 3.75 ‘Tollet and Shaving Casos,all leathers. Qe. Shaving Mirrors... 75¢ Music" Roll ail leathers - BOc, Match Cases, all leathers. + Be. Gur Ticket Gases... 10¢, Playing Card Cases. 50c. Scissors and Cases. 1.00 Drinking Cu + Be. Drinking Flas ; 50c. Photograph Cases, 2 4 pictures... TSe. to B. Name free on all Leather Goods. Kneessi, to to to to to to 4.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 4.00 1.50 5.00 8.50 ' Dying of Consumption. Whose Fault is It, “Judge Ye?” Scores of people in this city are dying of Con- sumption who might be cured by Dr, Shade, 1232 14th et., as was Drs. Phillips and Patterson, Mr. Brown, 1408 Corcoran st.; Mrs, Welbor 308 Sheridan ave., Mt. Ple Mr v. Mrs. Bender, 6th who declare that Dr. Shade cured th ly physi But it seems that some people would rat by thelr proju- dices and die under a so-called regular doctor than to be cured by a so-called irregular physician, “So mote it be.” Office hours, 9 to 10 aam., 1 to 2 and 4 to7 p.m. Consultation free. aid-42a (Flour At Unheard-of Prices. Following our usual fashion of ‘‘cut- ting,” we will quote prices on the lead- ing brands of flour that cannot be dupli- cated anywhere: URY'S BEST. C7Geruine Elgin Creamery’ Butter, CENTS pound. .T. Redman. ’Phone 192 950 LOUISIANA AYE. dl4-3od A Bunions & Corns Pak: JREMOVED, 2c, BACH. th feet put in good order for $1.00. PROF. J. J. GEORGES % 80 4 Specialists Parlors, 1115 Pa. Se a 8 to 5:30 p.m. Sundays, 9 to 1. a11-104 > At Ramsay’s four watch cleaned for $1; All our work warrant tr 1221 to GAB HEATING STOVES AND RADIATORS AT REDUCED PRICES. Agercy tor Welsbach Light. di2-6t* 1104 Connecticut avenue. watch matnspring, for one year. FOR TWO DAYS ONLY WE SELL #0. GHOS GRAIN, S8ATIN-! EB RIB. BON FOR 100. PER YARD. SUITABLE. XITHER FOR FANCY WORK OR DRESS. ‘TRIMMINGS. WE HAVH A LOT OF VEATHER AND FANOY FANS WORTH WH VILL SELL AT 480, Dolls. BEFORE YOU BUY YOUR DOLLS GIVE Us A CALL, As YOU WILL SURELY BB SUITED, IN PRICE AND STYLE. ALSO’ VISIT OUR HANDKERCHIEF AND UMBRELLA DEPARTMENTS, AS WE HAVE 4 LARGE AND FINE ASSORT- MENT OF EACH. MANDKERCHIEFS FROM 80, UP, Trimmed Hats. WE HAVE DIVIDED WHAT TRIMMED HATS WE HAV® LEFT INTO THREB LOTS, AS FOLLOWS: LUE 1.—#15 HATS FOR $6, LOT 2—$9 HATS FOR $4. : Lor 8.—-$6_HATS FOR 939 F St. N. W. OPEN EVENIN' NCIN OPEN F 'GS COMMENCING DEO. 17. Pt tt Re Get the Best. THE CONCORD HARWESS, . LUTZ & BRO., 497 Penn. ave., adjoining National Hotel. tt Sa nh tee Rw ee | C. Auerbach’s | Saxony Wool German | Hand-knit Jackets, «| Better Than Ever, | $1.49 Up. \ | At Auerbach’s New {Domestic Sewing [la- | chine Building, | LN, W. Cor. 7th & H. jf ace oma I There Isn’t A Lamp In Lampdom —that isn't here—in our elegant display rooms—unless it is the poor sort, for we don't handle them. You cannot af- ford to skip ux—if you are buying lamps, Ee. Brooks Co. 531 15th St. N. W. d13-30e0 aa “All the World Loves a Lover,”’ Aad all the world A loves Beau- ty, and un- Free conse {ously does it homage. Nothing is £0 ab- sorutely perfect or beautiful as the bea ty of the human nd It ts 9 duty, personal and individual, “to look ‘one’s best; certainly to erad- feate disfiguring blemishes that sclence hes found a way to re- Consultation. ce, move. If ycur face has any of these, why not call at the Mertz building, corner F end Eleventh streets, and have a talk with DR. HEPBURN, SPECIALIST IN ALL SKIN DISEASES? a13-28e0 Boys and Girls have a gay Christ- mas Tree, Giees Balls, Tirsel, Snow, Dolls, Gilt Toys, Crepe Paper, Fancy Peper, ‘Favors, Cotton. Ani- mals, Masks, Flags, Gold Paint, Metallic, Christ~ mas Cards, Candy Boxes, Cornucopias, Cap Mottoes, Tetcles, Green “Moss, “Frost Cloth,” Candles, Scrap Pictures in everything, Angels, Doll Heads, 7 n27-im* PSOE iGas Heatin Stoves, $4 —we have them for as much as you wish to pay—but all the best viilue for the money, Gas Radiators, $10 3B and Taylor's Fireplace Heaters, up. We keep all stoves bought of us in repair one year free. Cr Oov'a, Tubing, Te. ft. up. Gas Appliance Exchange, 1428 N. Y. Ave. om ORASASAL AA LARA RAE MAA AAAR — Se eeeeNeeeem™—es (f PhysicalCulture (Corset Co.’s RLACK CORSETS FOR CHRISTMAS. PSOS0 90: A s Black Corset, A $5.50 mae of real whale. bone, in — ehort * lengths. A 50 Cor- Corset © eit Neve" sSucea to $3.79. For $3-79- (Tirs.Whelan, Mgr., . Any Corset bought for Christmas can be fit- ted aud exchanged af- ter the Holidays. 1107 G ST. NO BRANCH. M (Hassocks. A large variety to select from. Sub- stantially and stylishly made up. Prices range from 35 CENTS up. Rugs—ali grades—all styles. Just an iden from our magnificent ‘showing—a splendid JAPANESE RUG, 8x6 feet, only $2.25, Makes a sensible Christ- mas present. The Houghton Co., 1214 F St. N. W. 14-200 WY You’ll Need Every Gown You possess during the Xmas gayeties. Perhaps ou dainty gown that is solled—if so, send it here. We'll make it as fresh and “new” as the one you've just received from the tailors—no in- jury to delicate fabric, nor change Iu color. Drop a postal. -Wagon calls. Anton Fischer, 906 G St. aid-10d Cleaned Fine Ball Dresses Si'Syca. We make a specialty of cleaning and dyeing fine ball and ev dresses, No fabrie too delicate. New process of dyeing by which cotton mixed goods are dyed as jet black as all wool, Try Drop @ postal. Spindler’s, 12TH ST., ONE DOOR ABOVE F ST. TAPEWORM Removed, with head, positively in two hours. Ne iu; no fasting; written guarantee. Specialist blood and nerve diseases. a1i-6te Dr. G. KROEGER, 920 B st. aw, Late of Anton Fischer, 413-94 RUPTURE PERMANENTLY CURED. NO DETEN- tion from business. We guarantee to cure all cases we undertake. NIA INST! Rooms 84 and 86, Metzerott building, 1110 Rw. ‘a10-1m* BOOKS, STATIONERY, Holiday and Religious Goods At lowest prices. H. G LANCASTER, 7th st. aw, ai3-3t* Buchanan BGros., SCIENTIFIC OPTICLANS, 1115 F st. Gold ginsses bought for presents will be fitted free after Xwas. ae a pl7-lm SGTION OF TOYS, HOLTMAY GOODS reread AAD a CLOCK, EVERY WN’ " 411-10¢ SAMSTAG, 5Sié Oth st. awe