Evening Star Newspaper, October 13, 1894, Page 19

THE SSES STUFFS FOR DRE Many of the New Fabrics Have Black in Them. APEATURE OF DRESS GARNITURE A Wide Latitude Offered in the Style of Wraps. OF THE NOVELTIES | Evening Star. MUST CARRY something in hend. Dame nds forth this peratively. at order. takes no of the You may carry that or not, as » but you must carry some- thing beside. Most everybody chooses to make that something a flower. A long- will bob its head and might be alive, as its in the idiotic new It may be a rose, or us; sometimes it is head of golden rod, and often it neh off of a magnolia tree, cr four perfect glossy leaves at- or a trailer from a sweet honey- If you would be quite up to date ppointments of your street toi- st carry @ long-stemmed flower. man does a cane that how. The arm straight the hand grasping in the middie. It is your Fad ord: T you ple med a that it one, act owner walk a bu ab is « hough wiggles the favorit y stem of ait ashy all the it 4 that the men think fact that a good many sve taken it ¥ rs inst hi ad of ~w weaves in fabrics and swing jong- are nim the fan hus far the ork, bur crinkled goods holds its ous red— ed with ‘Th nd . makes ant gown. ades are extremely popular, are invading the premenade toliets to a markable degr A fa mrting for the red street gowns and cuffs and vests, black isce. Another trimming is row after row of black velvet—the very narrow~put en ruftles of red or black satin baby rib- bon. It takes ribbon to trim the aver. on seme it takes as many every ir When the dusky clr m a delicat work, they : Vividly col and produce ¢ ‘curse, ther len Brown Covert Cloth. treatment, but it is very aliy applied. "This akd_ xo to show, ulso, that the French modistes are not concrolling the menu + of fabrics, for if there is any- thing the French do not like in colors Mets bb They even toach - up: their mourn that we wonidn’t think €f doing relegate biack as much Bm 5 e grief-stricken. Odd as- Bociat colors is made possible by the ger-ral introduction of black. Think of a brie in which the main colors a and brown, with a chevron of block thrown across it. Or one in blue, red and green, Peering through checks made by a raised thread of black It is quite the thing to have all street gowns made with coats and vests. When 80 cawle, the modiste exp order for ac least three Gifferent material to that In this way an economical be maid ° y have ne orrespend, In dre ure bands seem to have the ! Challie and Grenadine. terie in silk or jet is woven ns from two Beads wide more, and forms a rich gown. Black velvet, embroid- % t band: ribbo chat you tally around the tail of you vi call tt a band. It will begin i =of-the-way place and end in a S one with a rosette or a p as though the designer ut of material. But just above it ter Sand will take up the story and Continue it in the saine hap-hazan! fashion mamed with beaded molds, id bands of velvet—aluost tilt ral? 2 hundred yards of trimming have deen ied, then you can stop ff you Wee 4 your gown fintshed. ¥ of the waists are made round- in< and with blouse effect. Women are loth Yo cive up the pretty loose watst, which @uswens the two-fold purpose of hiding 4 rity and concealing adipcese tissue t the watst, while on a weil-formed foram it f ng wef et EO is probable that the round waist worn all sesaor {f not all winter. There like, so that you can sew | EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13, 1894—TWENTY-FOUR PAGES. are a few designs in pointed waists, but they ere nearly finished with a fold at the bettom and have loosely draped fronts. A stylish street gown, made of golden brown covert cloth, has one of the strictly tailor-made waists, being tight and plain, Tt has the cloth and the with a slight point back and front. of plalted epaulettes sleeves and waist are banded in irregular fashion with black velvet ribbon. The skirt is lifted slightly at the side, to be caught with a black velvet bow and a pointed ef- fect in black velvet ¢ to the front from the side seams. The jaunty straw hat is one of the new shapes and is decorated with only a bow of velvet and a buckle. A All in ireen and Pink. pretty challie for a young lady is in dark red with the sleeves covered with b sill ver the fromt of the bodice, shirred at the neck with the full: | thered in a belt. The skirt has a| same plaited very full. The hat ts en | f red and black straw with black | trimming. | new wraps begin to appear one is} le al- struck more than ever with the la jowed In the selection of etyle. the coats made to match the gowns, of | “Why, that is what Is making me so much cou! re so long that they might answer | trouble,” she declared. “Mildred has set for dresses themselves on a rainy day. | h eart on having a white taffeta silk Others are orly great many st unty short jack- ets, notably, those who are tall enough to stand the bobtailed things. Now and then on cool evenings a fur cape is seen. Some | of them are new and a few are remodeled. | All show the military shape, and most of them are longer than last season. A novel cape seen at the opera last week was im- ported. It was rich biack velvet, made in military shape, and came six inches below the waist of the wearer. It was lined with | rose pink satin and bordered on the outside | with ermine about six inches wide with a narrow pointed collar of the ermine. The odd thing about the cape was a border of old rose point that was laid against the velvet Just back of the ermine and that fell in a ruffle from the ermine collar. It was an elegant garment. A long opera wrap that ts to be worn a young debutante this season is the familiar circular design. ‘The outside ts fine white mohair, and it is lined with pale blue eiderdown. About the | yoke are three very full ruffles of pale blue moire, the lower one falling almost to the waist Ine. It is tied in front with long wide pale blue moire ribbon. thre: ath, and a SCRAPS OF BLACK SILK. | | They Are Well Worth Cleaning and Saving for Future Needs. Never throw away a scrip of black silk. An inch strip of black sill 1s a boon some- times. After ripping up the old gown take three ar four old kid gloves and put them to boil in a pint of water. Let them boil for an hour, strain through a cloth, and put in the liquid a quart or more of hot water and a tablespoonful of borax. Lay your silk flat on a perfectly clean table that has no seams or cracks in it, and rub every inch of the silk with the mixture, till it is thoroughly saturated, and all spots are re- moved. Then fix a tub of werm water, in which put a Hberal quantity of borax, and pick the silk up by the corners and dip it up and down in the tub of water. Dip and dip till it Is well rinsed, then take out to the line, where you have pinned a long strip of cloth about a foot wide. To the dge of this cloth pin the silk by the ex- treme edge, stretching it so that it is not wrinkled and does not droop. Let it drip dry, and {t will need no froning. Do this on a bright day, when there is no wind. Black ribbons may be cleaned the same way, _> Outdoor Exercise. A bright woman doctor said the other day, “exereise Is the best remedy for that | foe to age, corpulency; tt makes good muscle and firm flesh, while it banishes fat. There can be no health of the muscles without use of the muscles, and while phy- sical culture exercises, so arranged as to bring into use all the voluntary muscles of the body are indispensable to those who lead inactive lives, there are few who are ged in active work who would not be benefited by them. Mental influences also must receive great consideration would we grow young instead of o!d, for mental health ts the prime factor In physical health. The latter is not possible without the former.” es Know Your Stomach. If after two or three trials you find that certain kinds of foods do not agree with you, you should stop eating them, instead of trying to find a medicine that will help to dig-st them. What Is one man’s meat - |SAVED FRO |a class, are bargain hunters, and yet one | ot too proud to put them into effect. HOW TO ECONOMIZE The Good Results of Systematic Fall Sewing. M THE RAG BAG acacia aie Advice to Women Whose Means Are Limited. eerie INGENIOUS TRANSFORMATION Writtea Exclusively for The Evening Star. WAS IN ONE OF l the big shops one day last week looking at silks when a familiar voice at my elbow made known the pres- ence of an acquaint- ance who has a daughter just the age of Rose in bloom, and another about the age of Dorothy. “I declare I am that tired I wouldn't know a piece of taffeta from a piece of China crepe,” she declared as she dropped on a chair and began fan- ning herself. ‘Since my husband's salary has been cut from $1,400 to $1,200 a year we have bad to plan every way to dress the girls in the style that they have been ac- cvstomed to; we have lived so close, so far as household expenses are concerned, that there is no possible chance to cut down there. I gave up my summer outing to save the money for the girls’ winter outfits, but even then I'm afraid I can’t get all they want. How much did you say this piece of silk is?” picking up as she spoke to the clerk the end of a handsome white taffeta silk. ‘One dollar and = twenty-nine cents, madam. It is a lovely quality reduced from—" “Mercy! Don’t say ‘reduced’ to me again. 1 don’t hear anything but ‘reduced’ from morning to night. It wouldn't make me so mad, only nothing is really reduced but salaries and the wherewith to buy.” What are you getting for Rose?” she asked me as we moved down the aisle, stopping at the various counters to look at the array of pretty things. othing Just now,” I replied. She is not in need of new frocks, her last season's dresses are not at all mussed, so she will weur them as long as they are presentable. I shall have one or two of the oldest frocks freshened up a little first.” Mrs. Brown looked at me in amazement. “You don’t mean to tell me that Rose will submit to wearing her old frocks a second season! Well, I am surprised What a School Girl Requires. I assured her that I had not consulted Rose. That I consitered a girl just turned fourteen too young to dictate the extent or the style of her wardrobe. A girl of that age is but a child, though she has great ideas of being a young lady. It is always best to consult a child's taste in colors, and well, perhaps, to let her select from among the materials that you have decided upon. Kut I wouid consider it the height of folly to let Rose select her own wardrobe. Mrs. Brown continued to exclaim over my methods. rties. I could make her a very pretty $ out of an old India silk of Katie's, but Mildred declares she won't | have an old made-over dress, You don't | let Rose go to parties, do yor Keep Her 2 Ciriid as Long as Possible. | Now, if there is one thing more than an- other that 1 am striet about, it is that | Rose shall refrain from everything that | savers of society. I want to keep her a} child as long as possible, and she can't be a child in thought or action very long if she ts permitted to spend half her time at parties and the theater and opera. She has her music, dancing lessons at home, her French and German and her school studies. That Is as much as she can manage at one time. When she has an hour to spare from these I prefer to have her taking a run with the dogs or a stroll in the park, a street car ride or a brisk walk—something to liven her up and give her new thoughts. Mrs. Brown, having been a slave to the whims of her daughters all their life, studied the memoranda that she had mede, and, striking off the new bonnet, which she reeded badly, selected two pairs of the flimsy silken things, at $2.50 a pair, for her ycung daughter, who will throw them in the rag bag and demand new ones as soon as the first hole appears. She has never been taught to darn a stocking. How to Practice & my. I wonder what theré is degrading about practicing economy that makes so many women shun it? They say that women, as woman can willfully waste more in a year than half a dozen men. There ure so many ways in which a woman tan savVe, too, if she has the right ideas of economy. and . sometimes think that the knack of plan- ning and making over clothes ts born in one, just as all other artistic ideas are—for the renovating sense is an art as much as knowing how to harmonize colors on a bit of canvas. After the house cleaning is out of the way, a woman whose finances need cosseting to make them come out even should get to- gether all cast-off garments and the passe gowns, coats and wraps, and study them carefully with respect to the needs of the family. If it 1s possible to set apart a room removed from the family for this work, I think it is best to do so. Into this room I would gather my work basket, with a full supply of thread, both silk ‘and cotton, needles, pins, beeswax, buttonhole scissors, hears for cutting—and be sure that both are sharp—buttons of every kind that are commorty used in a house where there are chiidren, cutting table, sewing machine, gown form—every woman who does her own sewing should have one, for they are invaluable—and all the other little acces- sories of the sewing room, that cost but Uttle, last a lifetime and are invaluable for saving time. Economy in sewing demands the proper tools and a convenient place to do the work in The Fall Sewing Systematically Done. In this room, for certain hours each day, I would settle myself until the “fall sew- ing’ was completed. It is not advisable to spend day in and day out there, for that is wearing, and not as much will be accom- plished as though you spent half a day at the confining work and then rested your- self at some other kind of labor. After you have got all the old clothes be- fore you, look them over carefully and study their capabilities. If there are little boys, look over the father’s cast-off trousers and coats. If the father gets good all-wool clothes, there are grand possibilities in them after they have got too shabby to wear in office. Rip them up carefully and brush them clean. Sponge them carefully is another man’s polson, ts quite true. Some people can eat all kinds of vegetables and enjoy them when to others they cause the keenest discomfort through indigestion. So it is with fruit. Grapes are rank poison to some Systems, yet you hear some people al- ways crying, “at grapes, they are the fruit of the gods.” Bananas, so cheap and com- mon, and by some accounted next to meat, are undoubtedly the cause of continued in- { diges uf the children and grown | peop! city. There are some foods {that certain stomachs cannot assimi- inte, and when you persist in eating them, t is like overloading a horse. Some day | you will pile too much on, and then there | will be @ break down. a The Ideal Popular Leader. From the Speetator. He is one who counts no public toll so As idly glittering pleasures; one control’ A rag a gee TE moldy tious but ent onder started, ane cr ata Nor crowned with titles less er) ‘Pran havcam greatness; la limpia- can hurry bts retard; te 5 living sti removed ve alone virte, wisdom, power, and press them with a héavy iron while they: are yet damp. Then get your patterns and lay them on carefully. You may be able to get only a plain litte kilt for the smallest one out of a pair of trousers, but one of the’ cast-off silk and wool shirts will make a handsome blouse waist, and out of the old colors as red and browh, or black and red, green and blue, a cortfbination sanctioned by art, but not by Me-2lue and brown, and so on. For these made“over gowns you can find on the remnant counters quantities of braid, galloons, beading and season-old em- broideries in silk ahd woo! that will make them daintily pretty. Then the last sea- son's hat can be dustedand brushed, damp- ened and pressed witha hot iron and fur- bished up with a bow of velvet or silk, and the only thing that remains to consider is the coat. Girls right out of things so that the coat ts“a weighty consideration. If lest season's coat ts’ good, but too small as to sleeves and ¢ollar, and, perhaps, too short, just get — velveteen that will har- monize with the cloth’and make sleeves and collar of it. If the garment is too short put three bands of the velyet around the skirt, the lower one being the widest, the piecing down being faced up on the under side with a band of satine the color of the cloth. " SENORA SARA, SOMETHING OUT OF NOTHING. How to Prepare a Dainty Luncheon With Few Materials. The test of a good housckeeper is to make something out of nothing, and this is how one woman managed it: Two women friends came to visit her on Monday, of all days in the week. And they came to stay for lunch! “They ain't a bressed thing in this yer house to eat but braid an’ that skinny lit- tle chicken what we's a stewin’ for we alls,” announced the cook, and there it was just a half an hour to lunch time. This house- keeper was equal to the occasion, however. She sliced half a dozen thin pieces of “braid” and set Jule to toasting them, She got out the small pudding dish, buttered it, and cut into it about a pint and a half of bread crumbs—little chunks—and then beat two eggs to a froth, put in with them half a teaspoonful of salt, a pint of sweet milk, a few drops of flavoring and three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and after stirring well, poured the mixture over the bread crumbs and set the dish in the hot oven. She found half a teacupful of boiled rice and a teacupful of mashed potatoes in the cupboard. These were sooy mixed together and made into cakes to fry in the skillet. There was one big potato boiled with the skin on, on Saturday. In a moment an egg was bolling, and that potato was being transformed into salad. Just then she thought of the pudding. It was browned beautifully, so she took it out, spread an inch of plum jelly over the top and the white of an egg beaten to a froth over that, sprinkled some sugar over it and set it in the oven to crust slightly with brown. Then she turned her attention to the chicken. It was small, but she dashed some hot water in the pot, so that she would have about a quart of liquid, and put In a heaping tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper. She arranged the slices of toast on a platter, thickened the chicken gravy a little, poured it over the toast, and lifted the chicken into the middle of the platter and set it in the warming oven to soften while she got the rest of the lunch ready. For the pudding she made a dip of butter, sugar and water and a few drops of flavor- ing. The rice and potato cakes were fried a crisp brown, and the salad with the dish garnished with sliced egg, a glass of cur- rent jelly, the chicken on toast and black coffee, topped of with the other dish of “braid” pudding, made a lunch fit for the queen. But you can easily see that the situation was discouraging to a novice in the beginning. —_— WHEN IT’S TIME TO PAPER. How to Get Old Paper Off and New Paper om the Walls. Probably you are talking about papering your house. If there is paper on the walls now be sure and have it removed before beginning to repaperi Physicians say that papering old wali without removing the old paper is a prolific cause of disease. And then you can't make a pice job of it if you have not nice smogth wal Make a strong solution of soda water, and have it boiling hot. Apply it to the papered walls with a whitewash brush, and the paper will almost peel off ttseft ‘in half an hour, though a second applftation is sometimes necessary. If the #4 are stained from a dark paper or any: other cause have them washed with soda water and soap and dried before beginning to put on the paper. If you don’t you ‘will’ havé thé new paper ail Stained. Fleur mukes ‘the best paste. White glue is an excellent addition and some alum. Have the paste a little thicker than cake batter, afd be sure that it is awell cooked, boiled. Run through g sicve before using so that {t will be free of lumps. Melt your glue in warm water and mix your flour to a thin batter with cold water. Have a big fron kettle two-thirds full of boiling water, and into this stir the batter very slowly, letting it cook as it goes in; then lastly add the glue. Let the $ boil for ten or fifteen minutes, COVERS FOR A COMFORT. How to Utilize Old Cotton Clothes That Are Past Wearing. When it comes to cotton goods, rost housewives throw old clothes In the rag ba® and then go and buy material to cover comforts. Take your old print and ging- ham dresses and rip them carefully epart— children’s frocks, too—and then have everything washed and starched. See that they are all ironed and folded smoothly and will not be In a muss when you get ready to work at them. Select three or four of the sets of pieces and tear them in strips of, say four to six inches wide. Sew pieces of like kind together evenly, till you have them the length of a comfort. Then sew the strips together tn alternating stripes, sew on the machine, and before you know it you have covers for a com- fort. The better part of old pillow slips and sheets will answer niccly to go in these covers, or if you like them darker, there are cotton dyes that are easily used. It is uch an economical way to use every scrap ef old wrappers and dress skirts, ‘The thicker gingham skirts can often be best utilized in making kitchen aprons, ——__ THE BEST TONIC. Avoid Poisonous Compounds and Save he Money for a Vacation. I wish I could make tired, nervous wo- men believe that what they reed is Proper exercis2, amus>ment of an innocent na- ture, end rest from ceaseless worry, in- stead of drugged nerve tonics. There is not such a tonic sold that does not con- tain the germs of pols.n to some systems. Most of them have arsenic in them, and that is a poison that should be adminis- tered only by one’s family physician. Oth- ers are full of opium and morphine, while they all have liquor as a part of their com- position. They ought to be labeled body and mind destroyers, instead of builders. The common drug is arsenic. It is cttica- clous in skin diseases and malarial fevers, if used by a skiliful physician, but is dan~ gerous, indeed, if tampered with by those who do not know its power. It makes the complexion lovely for tawhile, eradicating wrinkles, because pyffs up the flesh in a dropsical marnef, but when the system is once full of it, a slight overdose will Polson one, and deathoin that manner is sald to be most hopribie. Just let all ton- tes alone that are ,notyprescribed by your family physician, ,and, spend the money for car rides and ant hire. Get you a new dress and go off 4o some friends for @ month's visit. Jyst quit work and go to bed and rest there gor a..week. ee Dress Shiel and Buy the best stockihet Linings. dress shields and then wash them jeften In lukewarm soap suds and soft:water, pull them in shape and dry in {he sun. Save’ all your old dress linings, afid' wash them and stif- en, then be sure ta iron them’straight, to use for the garments of the little ones. You ean seldom use old linings to advantage in @ gown for an adult, as it is of importance that lnings hold their i wi i WOMAN AND LABOR Man’s Recognized Competitor ‘in the Employment Market. ° CONDITIONS RUINOUS 70 BOTH SEXES Universal Organization is the Reme- dy That is Offered. aoe Seana LOCAL SITUATION eet eae TS THE Written for The Evening Star. The woman's cause is man's. They rise or sink together. Dwarfed or godlike, bond or free; if she be small, slight-natured, miserable, how shall man grow ?—Tennyson. The shoeworkers of New England have for a long time been complaining because women are crowding into the factories in large numbers, while men are, in conse- quence, being forced out upon the streets. The excuse given for their employment in preference to men ts that they work for about one-third less wages and turn out just as good work. Organized society today is surely called upon to settle more knotty prablems than ever before in its history. Especially is this true of the industrial situation, and the question of female dabor is one of the most serious pressing for solution at the present time, if we except the greatest of all prob- lems just now—that of getting work of any kind at any price. Too long have men looked upon woman as an inferior being, only fitted to perform the labors of the household, with little or no compensation if a wife, with the merest pittance of re- muneration if a servant. She has not been considered a factor worth noticing in the labor world. There have been some avenues of trade open to her for many years, but she was usually employed to do what the men were pleased to term “woman's work,” and, no matter what her condition or the wages paid for her labor, the other sex did not, as a rule, trouble themselves much about her. But with the introduction of machinery to do the work of man it was discovered that less muscie was required to handle the work, and why should not women be em- loyed to do the work instead of men? Man himself had established the custom of pay- ing woman iess for the same amount of equally as good labor, and the average employer was not slow to take advantage of his opportunity to reduce the labor cost in production, and thus either add to his profits or give him a leverage over his com- petitor in the markets of the world. This change has been gradually taking place, until women have now become the recogniz- ed competitors with men for employment in a large majority of the mechanical arts or trades. Skirts and flounces have not only invaded the editorial sanctum and counting room, but In a majority of retail mercantile pursuits women are found to be quite the equals of men as clerks or salespeople. In the more laborious walks of life they are fast displacing the sterner sex as printers, binders, watchmakers, wire workers, box makers, shoewor! tailors, buttonmakers, ¢elegraph operators. &e. and it is only a few years sin sive nail mill near Pittsburg displac y all the men in their employ and re- placed them by women at about one-half the wages formerly paid. Organization for Women Workers. Wageworkers with their eyes open have been watching the progress of this move- ment for several years with a great deal of interest, but it was not until a com- paratively recent date that any concerted action was taken looking to a remedy for the evil—for evil it had certainly become. A few of the leading men of thought in the labor movement determined that women should become organized the same as men, and as an organization demand for the sexes equal pay for equal work. ‘This was opposed at the time by ny men even in the ranks of organized labor. “. pman isn't worth as much as a man,” was the usual argument. But when the man saw his position as clerk or bookkeeper taken from him and given to a woman, who did his work ju: as weil for much less money, he very readi- ly came to the concluston that “the woman Was just as good a man as he was,” and today all thinkers in the labor movement, of whatever branch they may be members, are ready to admit that if the men do not want to see the standard of wages reduced below living rates they must take a hand in the work of organizing the women and securing for them the same consideration they would expect to receive for them- selves. No honest employer can object to paying the same amount of money for a like amount of work, whether the workers wear trousers or flowing skirts. The value is in the labor done, and the sexes should eeeaty compensated for doing it. The t¥pographical union for many years held out aguinst the admission of women as members; but they saw the folly of con- tending against the inevitable, and wisely concluded to make terms with both the women and that other even more danger- ous competitor—the typesetting machine. And there are few union printers today who would care to take the back track in either case. But the shceworkers and the printers, and all other trades now suffering from this kind of competition, have only themselves to blame. A woman has as much right to life as a man, and, under just conditions, is a legitimate competitor. If the organized trades had adjusted themselves twenty-five years ago to the changed conditions, and taken woman into their societies and as- sisted her to better her own condition, she would readily have assisted them in turn to maintain living rates of wages for their labor. No person objects to good pay for labor done. But so long as women were told that they were inferior and in- competent, and not able to earn as much as their male competitor, it is not to be wondered at that they have been induced to wet work at a lower rate of compensa- ion. an The Situation in This City. This question of woman in the industrial Pursuits has a local phase peculiar to Washington, and of especial interest just now to Washington people. When the Hon. Carroll D. Wright of the department of labor made his investigation and report on the condition of the working women in jarge cities he does not seem to have con- sidered this city in his calculations, Per- haps it was because Washington no factories where women are employed; yet, in proportion to the number of persons en_ gaged in industrial pursuits, there are more women employed in Washington than in any city in the United States except New York. For what are the government de- partments but workshops? Some women prefer to have it said that they “are in of- fice” rather than that they “work for the government;” but the employment is the same. Further than this, outside of gov- ernment employmen® there is no city in the Union in which the same grade of intel- ligence is employed at so inadequate a re- muneration. Speaking on this subject the other day, a New England manufacturer said to the writer that he knew of no place in America where so large a number of women of mature years and a high order of intelligence and virtue could be employed at so low a rate of wages as in Washing- ton. School teachers and graduates of fe- male seminaries come here, expecting to obtain employment with the government. Some of them get it. Others accept tem- porary employment while waiting for the other, and hope against hope, and often never get beyond clerking in a store or per- forming some kind of office work in one of the numerous pensign agencies or real estate offices. eo 19 same discrimination against woman because of her sex. Universal Organization e Remedy. True, there are some women who draw salaries of the higher class, but they are few in comparison with the hundreds or | thousands of cases in which a woman at a lower grade works beside a man drawing the higher salary and often does more work of a better quality than is done by her male neighbor. The reason given for the dis crimination here is that the woman docs not vote. And yet the departments are sup- posed to be governed by the principles of merit alone. What a farce! The remedy for this evil—the ruinous competition between the sexes—ruinous alike to both men and women—is to be found in universal organization. “Equal pay for equal work” should be the slogan, and Women who are so situated as not to be obliged to earn their daily bread should take a hand in the work of helping their less fortunate sisters to better conditions and better compensation for labor done. Women and girls who toil long hours in illy venti- lated workshops, factories or offices will not elevate the race when they become the mothers of our coming generation of men, to whom shall be committed the guidance of the ship of state. How important, then, that their surroundings should be improved! Tennyson was right—“The woman's cause is man’s. They rise or sink together. Dwarfed or godlike, bond or free; if she be small, slight natured, miserable, how shall man grow?” A. M. DEWEY. ERO acts DRESSES FOR SCHOOL, What You is Require to Make Them Presentable Always. There is always a question of how many dresses a schcol girl should have. I think that she can very easily get through the winter with four. Many girls have only two at a time—one for school and one for every other purpose. Two good wool frocks, one of lighter weight than the other, for warmer weather, are all-suflicient for the schooi room. There fs altogether too much of the dress parade spirit abroad among young misses, who vie with each other in “show- ing off” at school. Then there should be one frock as handsome*as circumstances will permit, for street and church wear and extra occasions. Such a dress should not get very shabby in one season, for it is not at all to the credit of a young girl to see her every day in public haunts. Then, if it ts possible to have a pretty little party frock, made of challie or cashmere, with lace and ribbon trimming, such a dress may be pro- vided for the rare evenings when a schooi girl may be permitted to lay aside her books and take a peep into the society world. Such a frock !s not a necessity, and a great many women famous in the world’s history for their beauty, wit and grace never had a rarty dress until they were “presented.” A young French matron recently visited one of the higher grades in the public Schools. After she had been seated a mo- ment, and she had taken in the array of fashionably-attired young masters and misses, she turned to her companion with the remark that It seemed to be a fete da. She looked her surprise when told that it as not, and then she solved the problem by saying: “Ah, it ts, then, a school of young millionaires. They are indeed quite gorgeous, but—hopelessiy bourgeoisie if one is to judge by thetr clothes. Is it not so?” ee TO DECORATE bDooRs. tle Methods nes Art by Which Their Pla May Be Improved Upon. From the New York Herald, Doors make the bane of many a woman's life. Architects and bullders of apartments seem to consider them the one essential to | success, and we who must furnish the rooms are confronted with the problem of how to} hide their ugliness from sight. They are} ever present and they are numerous enough to inspire despair, but they can be con- quered and they can be made to do effective work. The removal of the door proper and the substitution of curtains ts an old, familiar and excellent method of solving the Prob- lem when there is no need for the seclusion which a lock means. But often the door must be closed, yet its hideousness seems to Spoil the room. Then ingenuity is required and real genius is necessary to success, In a tiny flat that is sorely overburdened with exits and entrances this plan has been taken up and followed with great success. In one room a bookcase backs up against the door, In its original state as a back- ground it was not to be tolerated. The transom was knocked down to a horizontal position. It and the door were draped with soft, dull-toned silk, a few bits of bric- brac were placed upon the shelf and a fine painting of an interior was hung over the drapery and against the door. In place of a horror it has become a unique bit of decoration and is considered quite a triumph by those who know. Another door leads from the bed room into the next beyond. It is securely closed and locked. The transom is covered with a bit of purely decorative painting and a hand- some triple mirror hangs against the main panel of the door, It was ugly at the start, but so far from being an objection has be- come a dignified element in the furnishing of the room. In another artistic home palm leaves have been made to form a screen and effectually cover an objectionable door. In this case the decoration is in the hall. door leads into the small library beyond and is of ne- cessity closed, as the space is needed and a second entrance ail that is required, e palm leaves — a aoe effect and a | perfect background for the quaint high chair Pst stan ds against them. —se0- — VASES FOR CUT FLOWERS, A Relation Between Them Which is Being Slowly Understood. From the New York Times, To the average person a bunch of flowers in @ vase must be harmonious and beautiful under all circumstances. The artistic and educated taste knows that it is quite as easy for the combination to be most un- pleasing. In a paper on the relations of vases to the cut flowers which they will hold a writer in Garden and Forest shows quickly that the subject is worthy of consideration. “A flat, circular dish,” he says, “ls needed for water Hlles, and, as the flowers are in this case large, the containing vessel must be ample in size. not merely to hold the flowers, but also to preserve @ proper sense of propor- tion, Tall spikes require tall vases, which shoulé@ not be cylindrical, but should be sensibly wider at the top than at the bot- tom. Roses and flowers with compara- lively short steme require low, broad ves- sels, flaring at the top, so as to admit of the graceful drooping which is s0 attractive with both leaves and flowers. Not more than four or five differently shaped flower vases are really necessary, the types of form being either flat or low circular ves- sels, which may be widely fluted upon the edges to break the too great uriformity of a plain circular rim, or round vessels which spread more or less as the sides rise from the bottom, and which may also be widely fluted at the top. All forms which bulge below, or which are tn the smallest degree bizarre In shape, must be rejected. “If, with the Japanese, we consider a single beautiful flower enough at a time, narrow containing vessel may be used. The Japanese use a piece of bamboo, which, from its irregular surface, loses the stiff- ness of the cylindrical form. We have no bamboo to use, and imitations in giass, china or earthenware are, like all tmita~ tions, offensive to good taste. Flower vases should always be of some opaque material, should be impermeable to water, and not coarse in texture. It should also be with- out ornamentation of any kind, and of a — and uniform tint of color.” ing to orange,” coming next. “Opaque white” vases usually present too strong a contrast, and all colored glasses are to [A WOMAN’S FAD ew) Pillows That Are Souvenirs of Places and Events. The Spoils Brought Back From a Summer's Outing. - - RICH WITH ASSOCIATIONS = Written Exclusively for The Eyot ing Star The woman with a fad has just back to town with a glorious co! up ail over the United States, an faa. “If you'll come over to my house,” she said yesterday, “I'll give you a cup of tea, and I'll tell you all about it, Souvenir Spoons, and cups, and autograph tea cloths are quite out of fashion, you know, but ff you want to be absolutely correct a met have—sofa pillows.” And she has sofa pillows. They are strewn all over her altogether engaging house thick as the leaves in Vallambrosa There are sofa pillows, and divan pillows, and enticing big cushions on the floor: square pillo and diamond-shaped ptl- lows and round pillows; big pillows, little pillows, fat pillows, lean pillows: pillows with as many ruMfes as a dancer's pettt- coat, and pillows severe and plain; pillows of every imaginable color, texture and de- gree of beauty, and the pretty owner of them all, curled lazily in thelr midst, actu- ally plans others. “Every pillow that you see here. Says proudly, “has a story and reason for being. Most of my pi souvenirs of the places I have visited, of people I have met. It is a much more reasonable fad than souvenir spoons, and 80 much more comfortable, you know. You can’t be sentimental about a cold bit of silver or gold, but hing tn the very idea of a pillow that suggests day dreams, and if my pillows could talk they'd tell you more interesting things than you can read in a week. They Have Associations. “Now, this one,” and she indicates a cushion covered with a gorgeous bit of real Chinese. brocade, “is a souvenir of a visit to the Chirese quarter when we were in San Francisco last year. I bought the silk of a Chinaman, who swore it was a bit from the trousséau of a mandarin’s bride. This plain yellow pillow with the setting sun in bullion thread is my Cali- fornia state pillow. This gray one, with the silver arabesques, t# Nevada. I em- broidered these gold wheat heads on t je blue silk, while I was on one of th rms out in Dakota, and the big whit m that deep blue pillow #tands for From New Orleans I have this small pillow, with the crescent in one corner. The stik—ian’t that delightful old ashes of roses color a thing to dream of?—was given to me by a dear old lady, who wore it tn the days when women endured prunelia | gaiters and white stockings. The magnolias on my Florida pillow were embroidered for me by a dear little lame girl in Jacks: ville, Those half open is mean Georgia. I am especially pi of my Vir- ginia pillow, and the woman who gave me the brocade it is covered with, told m it was cut from the iain of a gown her great, great grandmother wore when she danced the minvet with ‘Light Horse Har- ty’ Lee, “You remember those ugly terra cotta flags with white Y's on them that wi i So any of the buildings out in Chicag: last year, don’t you? They were the Chi- cago emblem, I believe. Tats pillow ts cov- ered with one of them. I have several pil- low covers from the fair, but I haven't all ct them done. There's a linen one from th Irish village aud one from the Javane: village, and one is a kerc Vienna wore. Brother Fred got me that, and he says there's a romance to it, but a man can deceive any woman but his sis- ter. Autograph “The Quaker gray pillow is Phila und the brocade with the little oval k is Boston, the only town in the country where you can't get beans and brown bread properly cooked. I daresay Boston cooks in Holycke’s day cooked beans well, but they haven't improved at all gince, and in ing, as Gautier says of love poetry, ‘to remain at the same place ts to wo back.’ That bit of thick, stiff brocade, so evidently a very late pattern, typifies New York to me. I can fairly see the Fifth Avenue Church parade every time I look at that. “A Vassar girl gave me the pink and gray pillow. The orfnge and black one is from Princeton, the crimson a gift from a Harvard glee club man, end the blue Beall, who used to be on the Yale base ball nine gave me, A woman I know, who has play- ed golf—you mustn’t sound the | when you say it—in Scotland, did those thistles. And do you recognize this signature?’ She held up a small brown linen pillow, with an autograph outlined in black across it—an autograph that is most often signed to things of infinitely more importance. ‘There were several autograph piilo and one of them was that of an actor famed alike for his ability and his egotism. “I met that man in New York last spring,” caid the pillow’s owner. “He was pleased to be very gracious, and on hear- irg somebody refer to my pillow fad, he sald that he’d like to contribute to it. Fancy my surprise—and, my dear, my dis- gust, too, 1 admit—to receive this pillow cover, which an occompanying note assur- me that the actor knew I would be glad to have it, as it was made by himself from a brocade dressing gown he has made fa- mous in one of bis plays. Fancy! A man who sews and does autographs tn outline! “This identical pillow belonged to poor Rosina Vokes, and Mounet-Sully used this, A theatrical costumer got them for me. Julia’ Marlowe gave me the silk to cover this. It ought to make you sentimental, for it is made of a bit of a gown she wore as Jullet. If I could only get one of Ellen Terry's old gowns, I think I could die happy, and I have a promise of one—but that's a secret. Im the Historical Line. “Just fency what possibilities there are in my fed, my dear! Why, if house roow holds out, the collection [ll have in a year or two will be worth coming miles to see. There's simply no limit to the interesting souvenirs I can have, and they're valuable, too. I wouldn't take a fortune for this one, for TI have documentary evidence that Martha Washington wore it. I have one pillow, a gift from a cousin of mine out in Illinois, that is covered with silk of a dress Mrs. incoin wore. I met a «irl at Harbor who has a pillow covered with the neckties of men who have proposed to her, but do you know, I think that Is a deal too much on the order of scalp locks. I have two pillows that I made to use, but—well, when they were done I had a sudden fit of sentiment, and to this day I haven't brought myself to use either of them. One of them is a Washington plilow, and ts covered with an American flag. Do you know, I couldn't reconcile my patriotism to the idea of having an emblem men have died for under the elbow of a lazy woman, or under the head of a loiling man. My other sacred pillow cover ts made from my mother’s wedding gown. A Fistic Memento. “This ponge: cover, with the pine branckes in outline, is from Maine. I gathered the fir balsam myself, with the ald of a man who quoted “This ts the forest primeval’ every time we went into the woods, and it wasn’t either. I sat be- hind Corbett going into Portland a fort- night ago, and I did wish } had courage to ask him for the rash he wore when he fought Mitchell. Think what a pillow that would make, to go with my Queker cushien and the pillow from Vassar.” She Paused to squecte @ Lit of lemon tn tea. “But, my dear,” said her viaifor, ‘not one of thesé Is really the pliilow-your own Pecrats to, and bedew with your tents, cod an wi fll that sort of thing. Show me that one s | one you ~~ - woman enrugged SS wet. end-of-the-contury “There isa’t any,” she ecid. “1 never slcep on one”