Evening Star Newspaper, September 29, 1894, Page 18

18 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 1804-TWENTY PAGES. SOME DAINTY GOWNS What Fashion Demands in the Way of Skirta. COLORS THAT ARE NOW IN VOGUE The Sudden Popularity of Shades of Pink. MAKING A DRESS_ SKIRT Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. KIRTS FLARE, the fullness hanging in soft folds in front, with the back usually stiffened and stand- ing off well. There is mo tendency to widen the ekirt. The sides and front are well fitted at the top.” That is the decidedly vague man- ner in which a French writer de- scribes the new skirts. One would think that there had been no change at all in the shape or style, and that it would be an easy thing to make a@ dress skirt after those directions. The woman who tries it, however, is going to make a botch of her home dressmaking. I never advise any woman, I don’t care how skillful she is, to try to cut her gowns after the “latest approved fashions.” She is pretty sure to make a mess of it and spoil her material. It is always commend- able in any woman whe tries to make the best of what she has, but, like a gem that is a palpable imitation, a gown badly fash- foned after the latest freak in style, only shows that the owner is weak, and desires to “make believe.” But, like a pretty bit of glass in a unique setting, which gives it a@ new beauty all of its own, a daintily fashioned gown that is particularly adapted to its wearer may tell that it is not per- fectly new, and yet its charming Iindivid- wality makes you like it better than the Worth Jacket. one that fs elegant only because its mate- tials cost a great deal of money. If there ls anything hard in the world to get it is a skirt with “the fullness hanging in soft folds in front, with the back usually stif- fened and standing off well.” It just can’t be achieved by a novice. The soft fullness usually results in an exasperating flopp!- mess, and the stiffened back defies the wearer by slinking in round the heels. So if you are desirous of the Frenchily de- scribed skirt just go to a modiste who is mistress of her trade and pay her her price, which will be stiffer than the back of your frock, but the satisfaction you will derive from it will be cheap enough. Now here are some ideas on skirts. You can take your choice of them. The gored skirt has proved itself a favorite that could not be ousted. It retains its shape better than the circle or umbrella skirts, and is not s0 prodigal of material. Two things that make it dear to the heart of the average woman who has to make her own dresses. Then the gore skirt is not hard to make. The foundation once made, the ruffies and puffs and draperies can be adjusted on a pillow dummy, no other being at hand, and the home-made gown look quite chic. The organ-plaited back is much liked for slender people. The full flutings are made rather narrow at the top, and gradually widen at the bottom, where the stiff lining makes them stand out. On many gowns box plaits are seen on the fronts and sides of the skirts, and side plaits are quite com- mon. They are not particularly hard of ad- justment, but I would advise the woman who is not strong physically to leave the plaited skirt to her stronger sister, for the folded material does make such a heavy skirt. It drags at the waist, and when it has to be held up much it becomes a per- fect nuisance. It looks very pretty, how- ever, and a great many women are already wearing them. The double-skirted dress is worn a great feal. It is an economical gown, because two old dresses may be fashioned into one stylish new one. The under ekirt is usually sham, except where the upper skirt is fictea, and there you will find a plain skirt with bands of some kind of trimming, or ruffles of silk or lace. I saw an imported gown of heavy camel's hair in dark brown, with a sad stripe in red, which had a double skirt, the under one being of red camel's hair, with bands of seal, headed by coarse white lace. The overskirt had a bend of the seal and a band of the lace. It ‘was hideous, and it cost a heap. Overskirts are quite insistent. About half of the designs show symptoms of overskirts. ‘They are in points that come to the bottom of the skirt, and again are in box-plaited yeplum shape, ending about the knees. Generally speaking they are not pretty, but it is safe to conclude that overskirts in sug- gestion or actuality will be worn this win- ter. In waists round ones have the call. They are seamless, double breasted and plain. Some are box-plaited to harmonize with the skirts which are plaited to the foot. Others have a multiplicity of shirring and ruffles, while many are slashed to show puffings of @ contrasting material, and the draped ‘Waist is still a favorite with those of slender forms. Jacket effects and revers cut as many fantastic capers as ever. It would be quite impossible to conceive of anything in the shape of waist trimming that would not @o. You must only be careful to have everything exaggerated. Particularly is br ete the sleeves. They do not grow a it smaller or a bit more sensible. Because of the sleeves capes will be the wrap par excellence. The new capes shown are quite elegant in style, and are rather shorter than those worn last season. The triple cape is not so much worn—a semicircular cape or pair of them falling from a yoke being quite a favorite. The yoke is generally pretty well covered with beading or embroidery, which may be as giddy as you like, and scmetimes the upper cape will have stripes of the embroidery. The c: are nearly al- ways lined with some bright color that will harmonize with the gowns you wear on the street. It is quite the thing to have a frill of finely plaited chiffon to go around the neck of these capes now, and, if you like, another at the edge of the yoke. Probably fur will take the place of chiffon later in the seeson. For general wear the military cape will be most popular. It should be lined, and the handsomest ones have hoods, lined with bright silks or satins. Velvet capes Beribbed House Gown. will be much worn later in the season, made to harmonize with the gown, and trimmed with either fur or rich passementerie. For an outdoor costume I think I have seen nothing of more elegant simplicity than @ tailor-made cloth which has what is called the “Worth” jacket, which is not a jacket at all, but a tight waist. The ma- terial was Oxford suiting, and the six-gored skirt was lined and stiffened. Across the front there was a little fullness where it was sewed on the belt instead of the usual darts, a point that I hope women who are rather fuller than they like will take par- ticular pains to notice. It makes the skirt hang so much freer in front. All the rest of the fullness is massed in the back. The Worth jacket ‘as the fullness laid in two plaits—narrow ones—back and front, on each side of the center. Of course, there are no darts. The fronts and neck have a turnover and notched collar finish, with the shirt front above it. The sleeves are large French ones shirred at the arm hole, and at the wrist is a circular cuff. The belt is of the Oxford, stitched to make it as flat as pcssible. This gown would be very hand- scme made up with velvet or moire acces- sories, and the stitching to match in color. Ancther stylish cut-of-the-house gown is made of the popular chimay cloth. The skirt is double, the upper being slightly draped at the side, and finished at the hem with a band of woclen moire. The waist- coat is of plain cloth, double-breasted and pointed in front, with rever collar and two cute little pockets. A short jacket opens over the waistcoat, and is finished with widely pointed revers, which lay back over handseme epaulettes. The sleeves are a big puff ending under a pointed cuff at the elbow, with a tiny pointed cuff of lace. The bat is rough straw, raised high on the left side, with a wreath of flowers next the hair cid feathers on the outside. Ribbens are not retired yet. They still flutter and flap from every possible point, and some impossible ones; but then rib- bons do make a pretty and graceful deco- ration, so one can't help liking them. It is next to impossible to make them look stiff. A bertbboned house gown that is quite handsome and quiet enough to be worn on the street is of a dark shade of red. Seems to me they call it “cerise red” now, but, mind you, that term cerise is applied to everything with a rosy tinge, ranging from red brown to rose pink. This cerise hue was so dark a red that it was not unlike In Evening Costume. the heart of a black cherry. The plain round bodice had a plaited frill of the crepon—I forgot to say that it was crepon, but that can be understood; women have simply gone crazy over crepon—on top of each plait being a band of black velvet rib- bon, and the collar of black velvet fastened with a bow of the same in the back. The well-stiffened puffs of the sleeves were caught at the elbow with ruffles of narrow black velvet ribbon, and the ruffle falling to the wrist had a band of velvet. A belt of velvet was finished at the side with a long bow and ends. The upper part of the skirt fitted plainly about the hips, all the fullness being gathered in the back, and each seam was strapped with velvet rib- bon to the knee, where a box-plaited flounce banded with velvet was set on un- der a ruffle of a piece of black velvet. It makes a handsome gown, but it is heavy. For an evening gown or dancing dress anything daintier than this French “har- is” tollet could scarcely be devised. The colors are white and bright pink fallle. The six-gored skirt has the two side seams strapped in Vandyke fashion with white lace. Fhe waist ts of the plain corded silk, with a square effect in white chiffon, plait- ed to a fluffy fullness. The harnais is of pink ribbon, knotted on the shoulders and ending under a belt back and front, which is fastened under a bow. The sleeves are of pink faille caught up with lace-trimmed straps of white silk, and finished at the elbows with pink silk bows. I find that pink, running up into the very darkest reds, will be the fashionable color, with hunter’s green, a dark, rich shade, pushing it very hard for first place. You will see green and these red shades combined a great deal. Nature has set the pace for some lovely combinations, and if you will study the world of flowers, and the dainty differences in the green foliage, you will strike the artistic appreciation of the har- monizing of colors that on first thought seem to be incongruous. BELL BALL. —— Big Rings for Women. From the Manufacturing Jeweler. The latest fashionable freak among wo- men who are blessed with pretty hands is to wear an immense ring, like a Roman Catholic bishop's, on the first finger of the right hand. It used to be considered the height of vulgarity to place a ring on the index finger, but now this decoration ts the dernier cri. The ring must be a superb one, and must not partake of the slender and graceful daintiness of the “Marquise” circle. It must be solid, big and respectably ecclesiastic in its appearance. The feminine mind, always destrous of presenting con- trasted effects to poor humanity,’sees the delicately sarcastic anomaly of: a little, white, . frivolous-looking hand. wearing a big, aggressively solid sort of rin, Her Revenge. From the Indianapolis Journal. When lovely woman stoops to folly, And finds too late that men beguile, She later makes us melancholy By taking to the stage awhile, HOME AND WOMAN What Makes and Mars a Home for a Man. ces THE MOTHER, SISTER OR WIFE Senora Sara on the Sweetness and Grace of Domestic Life. MARRIED BLESSEDNESS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. H ME, BUT IT IS pleasant to be at homeagain,even if the house is swathed in unbleached muslin and smelling of ‘“‘cam- fire’ and other atro- cious odors, I have seen so many kinds and classes of homes in my half-continent trip this summer that I feel as though it would be a hard mat- ter to appreciate suf- ficiently my own cozy abiding place, which, if it is not palatial, is at least roomy and comfortable, and is home. I never fully realized before the pathos of Payne's heart- hungry cry, “There’s no place like home,” and I doubt if any one can who has never known the discomfort of stopping at all manner of places, sleeping in all kinds of beds and eating all sorts of food. There are shades and grades in homes, of course. A Navajo Indian wouldn't like our homes at all. He would dislike the closeness of the atmosphere and the odors. And he would object most strenuously to the white man’s bed and the white man’s board. The dusky Mexicans would dislike our carpeted rooms, eye with apprehension our latrobes and ranges, our furnaces and steam coils, and die of starvation if the cook failed to put red pepper in the pastry. And so it goes. Home means much to those people who value it, but the measure of value depends upon the potency of the in- fluences that surround the home in ques- tion, and how far its comforts and con- veniences respond io the demands of our natures. Dick exemplified that view of it the night after we got home. Dorothy had gone off to see some of the girls, and Dick had come in for one of his “talks,” which usually mean a “smoke,” with his manly form in my favorite chair and his feet on my favorite cushion. “Now, this is solid comfort, Sara,” he managed to say between puffs. ‘The fel- lows who have no homes have my sincer- est sympathy.” I was struck with a sudden thought, and so I asked him what his definition of a home might be. “What makes a home?" I queried, watch- ing the glow on the end of his cigar, and wondering if a woman could get emanct- pated enough to take as Much comfort with an after-dinner cigar as a man. The glow brightened through the dusk in the room and then died in white ashes again before Dick replied gently: Home and Women. “A woman, Sara. It is a woman who makes or mars a home for a man. You may think that is a narrow view to take of the matter, but that is the way I feel about it. What do you suppose I cared about coming to this great barn of a house when there was no woman I cared for here to welcome me? A man can satisfy all the ccarser demands of his nature at the club or a hotel. He can be fed, get a place to sleep, and have even better service, if he pays for it, than he can get in the average home, but that does not constitute happi- ness, There is one corner of a man’s heart that nothing on earth can fill but a wo- man. At first it is his mother or the one who stands in a mother’s place to him, then it is his sweetheart, and last, and best, it is his wife. A good woman can make a hut a home for a man, if she tries, and she can make a palace a purgatory if e is so minded.” “Then Dick was called for, and went away, after bestowing on me one of his bear’s hugs, which he calls an embrace. Dick is such a tender, loving brother. He has never seemed to grow away from his sisters, as so many boys do, and he still keeps up the childish custom of a good night and good morning kiss. Not many young men who have cast thelr first vote for President can say that. Yet it does a mother so much good when her grown-up children show in almost the only way left them that they love her just as they did in childhood. I think, sometimes, that the present generation of chijdren are too mat- ter-of-fact in this respect. They take so much for granted themselves, and expect everybody else to do the same. I know mothers who would give a year from their shortening lives to have their big boys, their grown-up sons and daughters, come to them at night for the good night kiss, the tender, loving pat of the hand, just as they used to do when they were little and liked to be cuddled. “Since I have stood in the place of a mother to Dick and Dorothy, and long be- fore that, in fact, they have kept up the habit of coming to me in the twilight hour whenever it has been possible to talk over the events of the day, its pleasures and its pains. Often we have not five minutes to- gether, but, however short the time, it is one of those breathing places in the hurry of life that not one of us would like to skip. ‘I miss our evening talks,’ is what they always say when 1 am away from them for a day or two. I like to hear them say it, too; for I know that they will never get very far from the influence of home ties as long as they can come and talk to me as openly as they did when they were toddling little ones. The Mother's Kiss. “Once, when Dick was only seventeen, he had for a frienc a smart youth of advanced ideas. He called his father ‘governor,’ and styled his mother ‘the old lady.’ I didn’t like that boy, but trusted to Dick’s innate manhood to rid him in time of so undesirable an acquaintance. The youth was bright, and had thoroughly fascinated my brother. One night he came home with Dick to remain for a day or two. When we came to sepa- rate for the night Dick tumbled my hair and mussed my laces, in the usual fashion of big boys who embrace with the same en- ergy that they exert in base ball, and the youth laughed at him. When out of my hearing, as he thought, he called Dick a ‘mollycoddle,’ and asked him if he was al- ways going te be a baby. My! how mad Dick did get at him. “T'll never get too big nor too old to love my sisters,’ he said; ‘and as long as I love them I shall let them know it in my own way, and you can like it or lump it, just as you please, Will Felton!’ Then he got a little ashamed of talking to a guest in that manner, and sald, apologetically, to the youth: “You sev, Felton, my mother liked to have me kiss her, and she said when I was just a little fellow that as long as I could come and kiss her good-night she knew that my heart was all right. But if the time ever came when I didn’t want to put my head on her shoulder or touch my lips to hers she would know that I had said or done things that would grieve her, and would be ashamed to come for comfort to a heart that I had hurt! You can laugh if you want to, but £ tell: you a fellow can’t swear and cheat at cards and think de- basing thoughts and keep low company and then go and kiss his .mother good-night. She'll find him out every pop, and her sorry face will make him hate himself, even if she never says a word to him. He just makes up his mind that his mother’s hap- piness and peace of mind are worth more to him than all the rest of the world put together, and he quits trying to be a fool.’ The youth never darkened our doors again. I presume he thought us too old-fashioned. The Marry to Reform Business, In the main I think that Dick is right. “It is a woman who makes or mars a home for a man,” but the idea is an all-embrac- ing one, because without a woman there can bé no home. Men are pleased to have a kind of place which they style “bachelor apartments,” but they never profane the word by calling it “home.” To further show that they do not look upon such a place as fit to be so styled, they never take a wife to live in “bachelor apartments.” When the title becomes a misnomer, a new home is started on entirely different lines, and the secrets of those ‘helor apartments” die with the name. ise indeed is the woman who lets thei lie buried and never seeks to dig them up. In doing this she shows the first requistte of a home-maker. Women should demand of the men that they marry that theyzhave behind them as clean lives as they expect the women they marry to possess. What is not the standard now, but It will bé some blessed day. But, having married a man, a woman binds her- self at the altar to take him as she finds him. Vile though his past may be, she con- dones it when s| msents to bear the name he has perhaps made notorious. Marrying a man to reform him Is bad busi- ness, but foolish women enter into that kind of a bargain every day in the year, with their eyes wide opén. Having done so, they should abide by their choice, and seek to plan for a future fm which there will be no plague spots to cover up. Remember, the past is past. With that you have naught to do. Make the happiness of the present the aim of your life, and, my word for it, the future will take care of itself. Once a Lover Always a Lover. 1 hold to the idea that a woman should always keep her husband her lover. She can do it, too, if she tries, That is, it can be done if there ever was any real love. It is too often the case that men and women make grievous mistakes, then a life of en- durance is about all one can council, but even that may be brightened a great deal, if the two concerned are reasonable and reasoning human beings. I have heard women complain sometimes that their husbands were not as attentive as they should be, and after a more inti- mate acquaintance with the complaining wives, the wonder to me was how they could expect a man to love such unlovely creatures as they are two-thirds of the time. Men are gregarious animals, and they want to be interested and amused. A woman who wishes to retain the respect, to say nothing of the regard or love of a man whose friendship is worth retaining, has got to cultivate herself all the time. Now as to cultivation. In the first place @ woman ought to always keep herself tidy. I do get s0 out of patience with some of my women friends who think that “any- thing is good enough for home folks.” A surer way of making home a place to eat and sleep. only could scarcely be devised. When Dick said that a woman was neces- sary to make a heme what it should be, he was not thinking about a slouchy frump of a woman, who could write for the maga- zines, but couldn’t manufacture a pudding; nor a slipshod creature who could talk politics with him, but who would wear clothes that would be a reproach to a pawn shop. A woman answering to either de- scription couldn't make a comfortable home for a Digger Indian. A woman who starts out to make a home has got to put the home first, and everything else must be made subservient to that. She may have her clubs and societies, be wedded to art, and devoted to music; she may theorize about advanced education for her sex, and champion the ultra ideas for the emancipa- tlon of women, but first of all and above all she must put her home, and give to it the best energies of her soul, or she will be @ failure as a home maker. I have always said, and I always shall, that the woman who marries, I don’t care how high her station in life, how exalted her name, or how vast her wealth, should be mistress of all the details of household affairs. In these days of shifting values, the unexpected is the thing to prepare for, and the woman of wealth today may to- morrow be called upon to sacriiice every- thing she possesses to save the good name of which she is proud. This has practically happened to several women who have held high positions in the social life of official circles in this country in the last two years. It has been my experience to know two women who joine@ their own wealth and family in marriagerwith men of like wealth and family. How those women could en- tertain. It was like reading of the famous French salons. ey were keen of wit, broadly educated, fas¢inatingly brilliant in every way. In a financial panic, both had to give up all that they owned.’ Not even the art treasures that they had gathered were left to them. ‘They began life again. Two Typical Cases. One in a flat, the other in a little frame cottage. Both were literally crushed to earth by the misfortunes that came thick and fast, and it was a question whether both would not die of broken hearts. In less than a year, one of the women had gathered around her a circle of delightful people, and her little ¢ottage was the scene of most charming Informal _ receptions, where her friends were as glad to be wel- comed to a cup of tea and a biscuit as,they once were to her elegant banquets. Though in middle life when misfortunes came, she applied herself assiduously to the acquire- ment of that knowledge of household af- fairs that had been left out of her educa- tion, and had mastered every detail. Econ- omy, bald and threadbare, was plainly writ- ten all over her daintily kept home, in which her own hands did most of the work, but she held herself well together, and kept pace with her husband mentally’ and phy- sically. She was his helpmeet, in every respect, and in the genial atmosphere of her loving watchfulness, her husband's less hopeful nature found the stimulant it need- ed, and he began to build anew, for her sake, when his own disposition was to give up, and drift with the tide of wrecked lives. The other woman was one of ‘the high and mighty kind,with “blood” and a family tree. She had never worked, nor had her mother or grandmother before her. She positively refused to lift her hand to as- sist her husband in retrieving his fortune, and withdrawing from her friends, she shut herself up in the dingy flat, where she made life one long torment to her husband and children, as she bewailed her “sad” lot. She neglected her person, and her house, and when I saw her last, although her health was perfect and always had been, she looked like some scrub woman, sour- ed, sneering and unlovely. But saddest of all, her husband had lost all sense of man- hood and her children were a disgrace to their father’s once honored name, The Center of a Home. I have spoken cf these two homes, simply to illustrate how a woman may make or mar the divinest inst.tution on earth, the home. Men and womer sometimes marry for money, often for reasons of state, and not infrequently for business reasons. Such merriages are simply freaks. The average marriage 1s made through a feeling of sen- timent, and it rests with the woman to keep that sentiment alive. She should make her home so cheery and pleasant that her hus- band will hate to leave and long to return to it. But she must remember that its pre- siding genius must also be bright and at- tractive, so as not to mar the pleasant pic- ture. Practice all the little arts that you used before marriage to attract, and learn some new ones. Keep your husband won- dering what charming new pleasure you are going to spring on him next, but strive in all this to cater to the better instincts of the man. Men are hard to drive, but easy to lead. You must not let them know that you are trying to do either, however. It is best to let them think that they are the mainsprings of the universe, because they don’t get cranky then and do unexpected things. The making of a home Is a great respon- sibility, and it falls, heaviest on the woman because shé is essentially the center. Around her all the structure is built, her tastes and desires dominate it, her will is its law, her rule ig. supreme. If the home life is pleasant, its atmosphere healthy, its institutions abiding, you may be sure that the wife and mother understands herself and does not underestimate her accounta- bility to a higher power for the talents in- trusted to her keeping. She knows that God put her here for 2 purpose. He gave her a full complement of senses, and the power to improve them as she saw best. She realizes that if the world is to be made any better, the improvement has got to be- gin in the home. ;Her children must be trained up to be law abiding citizens, and She knows that only the watchful care of a mother can keep their willful feet in the right path. It is not until she is sure that they have graduated from the home school into the big busy world to make homes of their owp that she secks to extend her rule to Bara-boola-ga. - I think that was the kind of a woman Dick meant when he said that -a woman could make or mar a home, and I am sure | that it is that idea that most men have be- fore their eyes when they ask one sweet woman to forsake all others and cleave to them alone. It is over the shards, flints and pebbles of these shattered ideals that so many false structures are built, for ideals can no more be constructed in fact without capital, perseverance and patience, than a government building cen be con- structed without congressional intervention and appropriation, SENORA SARA, = eee Not Reportable. From the Cincinnati Tribune. Jack and Jill went up the hilt To get a pail of water— But the things they said when they fell cown, They really hadn’t oughten | in an earthen pot. . 8 HOUSEHOLD HINTS How the Poor Suffer Through the Economy of the Rich. RESPONSIBILITIES OF PARENTS Suggestions Which Housekeepers Will Find Helpful. SOME USEFUL REC IPES Fa Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. If you would keep the little ones healthy through the cool mornings of the coming autumn season clothe their little bodies in wool. A wooien undershirt over a gauze one, and a flannel skirt, with the legs and feet kept dry, will probably save you much anxiety and a gcodly sized doctor's bill. Until about 12 o'clock the flannel should be worn. When you go to dress them for the afternoon, leave the undershirt on, but you can safely remove the other heavy cloth- ing. Put on the thick clothing when the sun gets low, and you will have no malaria in your family. The same plan would hold good with adults. ee oe Good children are the hardest of all crops to raise Reverting to nature’s laws, it will be found that here, as in the agricultural world, it is impossible to rear a crop of anything but weeds on impoverished soil. If parents are lacking in mental or moral stamina, but through the restrictions of so- ciety have been ile to keep it hidden, you may be sure that it will crop out in their children. There is more truth than poetry in the remark that mothers so often make, that it seems to them that their children were “born bad.” To have been born so is certainly a misfortune, but not the fault of the child; it is rather that of the parents or of the more remote ancestors, who were noted, pechaps, as wild, undisciplined crea- tures, whose only use for law was to break it. If grand juries might sometimes sit in judgment upon the fathers of the criminals within their jurisdiction they would, nine times out of ten, be obliged to bring in a true bill against the parents as accessory before the fact. The wise parent will study the laws of heredity, and as far as lies in his power, at least, correct the faults of an ancestry that has defrauded him, seeing to it that his own offspring has a fairer chance so far as he is concerned. When mothers and fathers begin to realize their moral responsibility, and their accounta- bility for the acts of their children, then the worll will grow better, for children will come into the world endowed with a greater sense of discrimination between rignt and wrong, and greater strength to resist temp- tation. en Se a ee As a rule, it is not the poor who practice small economies, but the rich. It would be wiser if the reverse were true. One reason why the stress of hard times falls so crush- irgly upon the working classes is because the rich in attempting to economize cut down their charities, and consequently cut off the revenues of their beneficiaries. The first cut that an economical rich woman n.akes is to remodel her old clothes, and in so doing she takes them to a fashionable mediste, thus depriving some deserving poor women of her former donations, and rede- priving them when she transfers her pa- trenage from her needy dress maker to the ncre fashionable one. When times are flush, she keeps a sewing woman or two busy all the time altering and freshening up her wardrobe, giving away, without stint, the gowns and wraps that have become at all passe. When the times get close, she discharges the sewing. woman, buys fewer gowns and takes the old ones to an artistic designer, so that she may present the best appearance possible in her made over toi- lets. Instead of giving away the cast off finery, she hangs it away against a day of pcessible need, which she knows very well is tever Hable to come to her. It is only a mall nature that will practice such kind of eccnomy. es © © © @ If the top of your oven insists on being too hot for your pastry or bread, put a pan of water on the grate above the bread that is ing too brown. If the grate has been removed to make room, take a big sheet of the common brown wrapping paper, fold it and lay over the bread or p.es or whatever it may be. If that is not at hand use a newspaper. Fold it to as many thicknesses as necessary. The thicker it is the more protection it will afford from the too hot oven. Of course, it will brown and crisp, but you have only to be careful about slip- ping it out when it has answered its pur- pese. o£ ie. © If you want your pie crust to come out flaky and nice and not take up the juice of the fruit or other filling, brush the under crust with the partly beaten white of an egg before putting the filling in. eae cara diy To make the crust of bread crisp and brown, brush it well with melted butter just before you put it in the oven to bake. Be sure the butter in “pertectiy fresh. * 8 8 To clean the pretty plaster casts that are often as artistic as the costlier ones, make a thick paste of starch—cold, of course— and spread it on the cast with a brush. Af- ter it dries, remove it by tapping the cast slightly, and then rubbing with a dry clean cloth, id * © © ee You can clean paint brushes that are dried full of paint by putting them in an old tin can of coal cil. Let them soak several hours, and if they have been neglected for some time it may take a day or two. Plenty of patience and petroleum will accomplish oe * 2 © © Perhaps you are getting ready to put up your stoves, and are in despair about the smoky mica in the doors. Slip it out and put it to soak in a dish of vinegar for a few hours, then remove and polish with a soft dry cloth. You will find itas bright as ever. oe . Irons are pretty sure to gather rust this damp weather and cause a good deal of bad temper in the laundry. Heat them hot, then run them quite forcibly over a flannel cloth that has a liberal sprinkling of salt on it. This will remove every bit of the rust— be sure and rub the edges also—then run the iron over a greased cloth, or a cloth that has a little white wax or beeswax on it, then treat it to a vigorous rubbing on a per- fectly clean white cloth. They will trouble you no more till next time, . * © © : Change the oil in-your lamps quite often it you use them infrequently. I don’t know why it is, but I do know that it is a fact that when the oil remains a week in a lamp that has not been used in that time it gets to smelling old and rancid, and will scent the whole house. Constant vigilance is the price of a sweet smelling coal ofl lamp. It is a long way ahead of whale oil dips, but is quite as far removed from the ideal of per- fection in illumination, . 8 © ee Motives of economy should lead to the often shaking of carpets, for the dust and dirt that gets ground into them wears them out more than any other agency of de- struction, Carpets that are a long time fastened to the floor without shaking. get to smell musty and moldy, too. They should be taken up every spring and fall, if not oftener, ee © © If you are tired, take a cup of tea and a cracker about ten minutes before eating a heartier meal, and it will be much less apt to disagree with you. Make the tea as the Chinese do. Put a teaspoonful of tea ip a hot tea cup and pour boiling water over it. Set the saucer on top the cup for a mo- ment, then put in the sugar, and drink by sipping slowly. Coffee is too heavy for a tired person. Tea exhilarates, while coffee soothes to inaction. Tea, improperly made, is rank poison, and that is why. so many people suffer from too much tea drinking. It should never be boiled, and is best made . 28 e@ To fresnen a stale loaf of bread, put it in a steamer over a pot of boiling water, and steam rapidly ‘for fifteen minutes, and then tear apart and eat while steaming hot. Serve from the steamer as wanted. It can be brought to the table this way by placing the steam2r over a chafing dish. Another way is to dip the loaf in cold water and put it in the oven, with a pan turned over it, till it is softened clear through; then re- move the pan: and * the crust crisp. : Until a woman is fully competent to man- age a houschcld and a family she cannot truthfully say that her education is com- pleted, "2 © w © Whisper scandal and it rill echo itself, Rice cakes are good. A half a cup of milk t a ~ of boiled rice, two eggs, salt to taste and a teaspoonful of suger, all mixed well and fried like batter cakes, only a bit thicker, and eaten with sweet butter nd sirup, will almost make a hungry man forget sirloin steak. If eggs are scarce, use but one, and less milk. The batter ~eonreg be a little thicker than pancake ter, se © © © An ancestral pedigree is not necessary to exploit your good qualities, nor will it ex- cuse the lack of the same. os 8 8 If you find that coffee disagrees with you, yet are unwilling to give it up, try drink- ing it without sugar and cream. It is said that the combination of coffee, sugar and cream is bad for a person with impaired digestion, but that clear coffee may be taken without disturbance. oe 8 & © Do not say to yourself that if you were rich or influential, or had you executive power, you would do thus and so for the amelioraticn of mankind, or the assistance of your friends, but put your shoulder to the wheel and do the very best you can for yourself and for others in the sphere in which you have been placed. The tiniest thing that exists has its influence upon something. So have you. The sphere may be small, but action will make it wider. Whatever we are, wherever our place, we have an orbit and a whole system, tiny though it may be, is disarranged when we fail to do our part. Remember, “Do with thy might what thy hand findeth to do,” and the reward will be as great in propor- tion as that of the man of power and wealth, 7 2 © © © A pretty idea, which originated with a bright, young hostess, pleases me greatly. On a strip of white satin ribbon, which hangs from a tiny brass rod in her guest chamber, she has written the hours for the meals in her house, the hour for arrival and departure of the principal mails, and on the back of it there is pasted a perpetual calendar. Now, there is unadulterated sense for you. It saves a lot of questions, insures punctuality at meals—if her guest has any sense of honor—and helps a recreant mem- ory, when important communications might be neglected but for this gentle inspiration. . ._. 8 Don’t eat anything acid just before going to the dentist to have your teeth cleaned or filled. Acid fruits make the teeth tenderer and more liable to hurt under the manipu- lation of the dentist. —_—— He Hoped Not. From the Cincinnati Tribune. “Do you believe,” asked the iong-haired man of his vis-a-vis in the car, “do you be- lieve that death ends all?” wouid be pretty tough on me if it answered the other min. “I'm the coroner when I am at home.” “3S ONE ENJOYS Both the method and results when Syrup of Figs is taken; it is pleasant and refreshing to the taste, and acts gently yet promptly on the Kidneys, «iver and Bowels, cleanses the Syrup of Figs is the its kind ever pro- duced, ear ol ggasi of table to the stom: its benedlial fa i its action and truly in fesithy ae pine” Sy sin mary excellent qualities commend to and have made it the ppencrened known. syrup of is for sale in and $1 bottles by all leading gists. Any reliable ist who may not have it on will pro- for any one who me thal ns "ie not accept any CAL'FORNIA FIG SYRUP CO. substi:ute. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL, “WE, KY. WEW YORK. &. SHE! !—hasa vw’ ‘1 « Charming o 1 mu FIGURE «. f oy «gi by the & iW) of the F r the French r C.P.Corset Al srhich postive : Stes workman, © CAN WE HELP YOU? It-you have Furniture or Carpets to buy, we surely CAN. Your promise to. pay is just as good 8 cash herc—no notes to sigo—no interest to pay— not a distasteful feature in the whole transaction. Furniture and Carpets for every room in your ON CREDIT. Pay us a little money once a week or once a month—let us arrange the payments for you—they will be so small that you -will scarcely miss the money. Don't forget that we make and lay all carpet free of cost—don't even charge for waste occasioned in matching figures. What's the use of paying cash—wben you can save nothing by doing so? PLUSH OR HAIRCLOTH PARLOR sUITEs— CHOICE, $22.50. . SOLID OAK BED ROOM SUITE, $13. SPLENDID BRUSSELS CARPET, 50c. PER YARD. RELIABLE INGRAIN CALPET, 8c. PER YARD. MADE AND LAID FREE OF CosT. SOLID OAK EXTENSION TABLE, $3.50. 40-CUND HAIR MATTRESS, $7, WOVEN WIRE SPRINGS, $1.75. YOURS FOR A PROMISE TO PAY, GROGAN’S MAMMOTH - GREDIT MOUSE, 819-821-823 7th Street Northwest, Between H and I streets < = * 3 i 3 A BRUT fe iu i 5 ' ! li ‘ jz rt a mixture of Salt Powder. anserupulous “ lareet profit they yield. Take the = > 1° imported x ural remedy only, which has the signature “EISNER & MENDELSON ©0., Sole Agents, New, York,” on ever bottle, Write for pamphlet. —— Consult If your pet Us {Bird or Animal Is ailing. Expert advice free. 4 All kinds of Bird and Dog Medicines and Foods on hand. Schmid, The Bird Man, 4 221 Pa. ave-—_—_—_—1z 12th st. 4 we wwe ~~ Bargain In Hair Switches. $2.50, Was $5.00. $4.50, Was $6.00. $6.50, Was $10.00. In all shades; also largere« ductions in Gray Switches, Hair Dressing, Cutting and Shampooing in best manner by competent artists at S. Hellier’s, 720 7th St. (Our First Shipment Of New Fall ‘GLOVES = Seah Ste "Ba (Latest French Tints, New Shade Modes, ‘The New Tans. (Delicate Golden Browns. (Plain and Embroidered ‘Glace and Suedes. ‘New 4-Button (Mousquetaires. ‘Our old lar prices on every- thing. We claim to ask the least for the best and fill our claims day. Every pair of Gloves evs tried on and warranted at oor HIBBERT’S GLOVE EMPORIUM, 606 11th St. Ain-co “EGGS,” = °° ees don't have a chance to get °° °° stale here, for what we receive to- day are sold tomorrow, and we get them direct from the benneries. We oe oe ee °° We also carry in stock Apjiles, * * Ontons, Potatoes, Butter and Cheese. ard PRICE &. 944 Louisiana ave. "Phone 293. e028 STORAGE. ‘We have a large warchouse, one story of is devoted to the storage of household | Littlefield, Alvord & Co., 26th and D Sts. N.W. $y81-tu,th&s3m = | clean whatever store with us will be well r constant- iy. Boome from §3's mouth up, 3. 10S Hats cover brains.” The Fashionable 3 “Dunlap.” ‘The best dressed men meet clubs, in the hot aa eo