Evening Star Newspaper, August 18, 1894, Page 16

16 —__>+—__—. That Depends onthe Way Well Made Clothes Are Worn. CHEAP MATERIAL MAY LOOK STYLISH BoJices Are a Great Institution for a Light Purse. aka THE COMING OF THE BUSTLE — 2 ten Exchedvely for The Evening Star. Womes AY SAY OF my personal oppear- that se; they may > a fright, say that my nose is crooked, my eyes awry, my mouth too la and my fore- h uhey { too high, but if say in the end defSrmitiés and mis- fortunes. I have ‘a in sort of style, elf. l be beautiful, we can very few y. And what does either to in the end? Dimples grow to bieek hair seis rusty s and gelden hair turns to dun. A nt-lily complexion gét# leathery with a plump figure grows stout and a thin anguiar; but if you have a pass«bly good figure, know how to carry yourself, and have good taste in dress, you can defy a4 Time und his scythe, and even make Z believe that the famfly Bible lies.” It was one of the society women of Wash- In; who was talking, and the subject under discussion a young married woman, who had been celebrated for her good looks, but who had gone off dreadfully, and, not age, that undefinable thing called “she had dropped about 4 per cent fn the estimation of the society world, The Woman tatking rever Rad any pretension er to beauty, but she ts always so 1} dressed and so thoroughly «rgomet that men look at her and say “Tendo man, by Jov And lyk at her and remark enviously thot she Myust have a Jewel of « drew er. And fgn't the clothes at ull, but the “air with Sop well-chosen and well-made garments worn. 1 do wish I could impress this Upon women «0 forcibly that they ‘would heed It, and ne wo around looking Uke dlowdles, When there tx no cull to do vo at all, There ts an insane be € current ng women of limited means that only “rick” women can look stylish, because pnly costiy « nts can be m up into tylish ones. That is a fallacy long since Xploted. A simply made ‘print’ gowa wuld assume the elegance of “silk attire” en, because they would put it care end wear it with an “air.” ts aad and & &: would say at once that such a person becaus> she carries herself weld cious without effort. It isnot because of her station tn life, or beeaus\ of her wealth, however, that a calico gawn is kecoming to her. For calico her not a penny more than St does weman to buy, and exalted ot change the texture of the It is ouly she has her print gowns made as she does her satins theugh by the same methods - in fashioning yours, but she as neatly, and as painstaking- ugh they were the finest fabrics, t to be Worn at a state dinner. Don't think that because the material is cheap it fs net worth the while to make it up neatly, and so that it will fit. Retter Wear the old gown a@ tittle longer than ruin pew goods with unskillful cutting or fit- tine. I have-produced, especially to point the moral of this lecture, a pretty little gown that is about as cheap as one could y be made. The skirt is cream is made by the bell skirt pattern, which the favorite again, and is unlined. It u yards to make this skirt, full. and has all the gathers The waist is cream wool hen- @t the back For a ‘verenda Tea. rietta cloth, and cost fifty cents a yard. It fs made unlined, blouse fashion, with big sle ves, and will wash beautifully. Tue hu is the cheap but pretty bourdon, mad a cream satin ribbon foun- it can be basted to that f casily transferred to another, tf you Mike It reunds dewn between the shoulders in a crac ui fashion In the back and has tet lapels of cream satin in front. The belt is cream satin ribbon, which goes round the waist from the front, crosses in the back, and, coming to the front again, drops to the foot, where it is tied In a big bow N Rarden there Is a dress pretty enough for a arty, an afternoon tea, an evening a Carriage Kown of a promenade Yet its entire cost will It will be cheape> then a dress, for tt can be worn . and it is not half the trouble up. am HO Ba ruffles to tron and no puffs to torment the laundress, And y must adrsit that It is pretty. The hat that «with It Is made of some of the bourdon ©. gathered over and under one of the rimple wire frames, und has a bit of cream rotin ribbon and a I-cent flower on it. It comt SL, LE belteve. The whole thing—hat gown may be accomplished for $7 if ke Mt yourself, but, mind you, it wilt stylieh, of even pretty, though it if you do not know how to wear it *, “carriage” ix nine-tenths of battle In cowning one's self, and “pres. im every thing For « veranda ten—and this sort of enter- tainment grows im favor for the sultry Aievuet Gaye, When cae must entertain and STYLE [S THE THING] that despite all these | ith gray | . and it cost thirty-five cents a yard. | desires to do it with as little discomfort as possible—nothing prettier than one I saw on a hostess of last week could be devised. It was pale violet c1 , made a plain Skirt and a simylated overs! oag~ 4 ¥ a band of rich butter-color whic! was caught high on the right side with. bow of satin-lined black velvet ribbon, which had ends coming to the foot of the gown. The same kind of lace fell over the arm from the elbow sleeves and ran di- agonally across the front of the bodice from | under the quaintly caught-up ttle jacket Yellow Crepon a and its bow of black velvet. ja rice straw, lined had some stiff gra Hack Velvet. The hat was ith black velvet, and es and lace on the out- side. A frock for a country garden party 1!s pretty made of yellow crinkled crepon, with a jacket of the same, and lapels of black velvet. The tight under bodice 1s of yellow satin, with ruffles of narrow black lace around the V throat, and down the front under the silver belt buckle. The skirt has a ruffle of black lace about a foot | trom the bottom, and on the elbow sleeves. |The hat is of black leghorn, with yellow chiffon bows, and th nodding yellow rosebuds. Another pretty frock for coun- ry wear is made of wood-brown canvas cloth, combined with brown taffeta. The plain skirt is of the canvas, and the long coat is of the taffeta. There is a pretty harness-like arrangerwnt of ribbons on the sleeves ani the front of the bodice, and one of the very fetching bows on the back of the neck. If you are desirous of getting a wool gown just now, you could not make a mistake in getting a brown one, for brown will be quite a favorite for fall and early winter wear. And if you want to trim it, try to have a few bows of ribbon on it. it dvesn’t make much difference whether there is any logical reason for their existence or not, bows are the fancy of the hour, and you should have some. Th particular fad in bows just now {s to spread them out ov. the back of the neck. They may be i front, too, but wherever they are, they reach out to the width of the shoulders, and stand up as high as the ears. In the ex- treme in which the ultra fashionable wear them they are not pretty, but made in a moderately spreading style, they add a great deal to the chokingly high-necked gown If you are doubtful about what to get for this midreason wear, let me whisper in your ear a little tale ‘of economy that will possibly help you out. You must have in your wardrobe a half-worn dark silk of semi-neutral shade, or some pretty wool that has got a little passe. Just leok some of them up, and make you of the new bell skirts that ace so piain in front and over the hips, but suggest a bustle in th back, and don't bother about putting an trimming on the bottom, unless it is dainty silk ruffle inside. If you have some rrow flat trimming that will hel to piece it out, or add to Its richness, without making too many shades or colors in it, then trim It. You ought to be able t of these, one Mht and fanc ugh for evening, end with a siikht train, the other for waikir«. Then just lay yourvelf out on Get new material if you like, but you can hash up something f bag.” Use sii and lace and ribbon, locn, fet E nu like, That sounds a good dea! like a recipe for meat ple, I know, but you just try It and sec a gul- Psat os DATS I Brown Canvas Cloth, how it works. You have to observe but one | rule in concocting such a confection—don't | mix colors too much. You may use black and two other colors that harmonize, or brown and two others, but after that you had better cling to two colors only, but | there is no place to draw the Ine on the | mixing of materials. I know women who have as many as four bodices for one skirt. One bodice made quite low makes an even- ing gown of it. A very high-necked one, with prim revers and no frills, transforms it into a church dress. A frivolous affair | of wash sik with a lot of lace fluffed about | it turns that skirt into a lovely afternoon | tea toilet, and a beautifully fitted bedice of the same material—which, by the way, 1s Wack bengaline—with some fine black lace on it makes it suitable for any occasion that | happens to catch its wearer in it. Oh, I tell you, bedices are a great institution for a light purse. Revival of the Bustle. A friend writes me from abroad that it Is true that some modistes in Paris are trying to introduce the bustle. Not in the cushion just yet, but in the adjustment of the kathers in the backs of the dresses. The shirts are growing more bouffant all the time, and the tendency {fe to throw this full- ness to the back. Large hips are once more a desideratum, and as so many women are minus those marks of a well-made woman, art has to be called in to ald fashion’s de- Votees. It is impossible to make a hollow- becked woman lock well with prominent hips, so the bustle seems to be imminent. Some women have always worn a kind of pad. And {f they would only stop right there, ihere would be no objection; but one cannot help viewing with alarm, as the Political platforms always say, the possible outcome of the new fad, If it becomes a mandate of fashion. My friend says that she does not agree with those who rave over the style of French women. She thinks that they copy, rather than originate. They catch up a Suggestion from some. one and adapt it to their own needs, and then send it forth as a French creation. French women do not walk well, and they do not know how to stand at all. Hence they are not as well formed as American women, who do both well, and to enable them to wear our styles they find that they must resort to artificiality. If the fad takes {t will not be long until we will be wearing French styles which are only an exaggeration of our own, and not at al suited to our strong-limbed, larger-statured wonen. As most women know who pay any attention to the matter at all, th in- skirted dress 1s a trial to any but a well- formed worran. One with any embonpoint, or one who 1s particularly angular, is simply a spectacle in the present perfectly plain dress skirt, “ ced by a foot ruMe or @ train, and the French woman has re- belled. The prospective result is a heavy- ap skirt, one of thone that drag the Ife cut of @ woman, and that must have a Mning. They are not pretty, any more than the floppy overskirts ai and they take such an awful lot of material to mak them. My friend sald of this that the & age? in trade was so great that tl jarge manufacturers would be to shut down Unless something was to fine tabrles, In conjanetlog” with fine jontets,"” untted to inflate the styles so ayantities of material would nee for & gown, and those wi wou! ren sal” need not buy 6s many gowns as heve to pay more than twice each = purchased than thus they were able to keep, of trade, A BOARDING TRAIN Senora Sara Has a Rather Tough Experience in the West. , FREE AND EASY TABLE MANNERS Culture and Good Manners Amidst Rough Surroundings. A JOLTING JOURNEY eee Spectal Correspondence of The Evening Star. ON THE WING, Arizona, August 13, 1894. NE RAILWAY Orc and a line of staggering telegraph poles, ending in a + dot and a blur on the horizon. Naw and again, for no obvious reason to the outside mind, there was ,a town. Thenthe towns “gave ‘place to Section, _So-apd-So, then the wildern. took up the tale: Some of it was good ground—very good ground—but most of it seemed to have fallen by the wayside, and the tedium of it was eternal.” “On the prin- ciple that great minds often ran ‘in the same channel, I have ventured to quote Rudyard Kipling’s impression of this won- derful Rocky mountain region, for if I gave my fdeas in my own words it would seem such rank plagiarism that somebody woul] be sure to detect the thett. “On the Wing” is not even a “Section So-and-So.” It is meant to convey the ide. that I am not stopping anywhere in par- ticular, but that I am flitting wherever fancy and a boarding train engine will take me. Parenthetically, I would like. to say that very often these same, ensines will take you where you do not cure in least to go. Over the side of a precip’ for instance, or into a boiling mountain branch, Sometimes the mighty rocks thet came forth when the dry land appeared ar staken from their abiding piace, and the cbligirg engine pauses to be ground into kindling wood beneath the irre istibie forces of the lanislide. Not infrequently it is the other terror of this strange countr a snowslide, that does duty at breaking th monotony ef the life and the finances of the railroad corporation at one and th same time. I have discovered, however, that wherever a boarding train engine takes you you are pretty sure to “meet up’) with curious phases of life. My advent on a boarding train was made in rather a curious way. I met pressed little woman at the friend in San » who told lived on a train vsed in rey lroad and | away out in A When LT ¢ interest in’ lear mething Mee, she kindly { her, and r all 4 The Meave Pt “It 14 a lonesome life, and y tired of it, but Fd enjoy havi ep wald, almost wintfully » javitation, ora’# mother in Santa hard life idently educated aboy ita she Lax to lead, but her ease is 4 commen Western men and we: come from the ea than otherw ks Ke and backbone to leay nty, and all on friends and relattor to go into a new country to spy out toot BU and to face unknown dangers, and only men and women of grit and couraye such as inspired the Purlians when diy sed the wide unknown seas, Would ever dure to cross ® great continent, aud seck on the heart of its mountain iavines: hemes and fortunes (hat the overburder east denied them, There is a common ve that only adventurers come to this secu ly sterile region, But that is a great » take. I have found much culture and edu- cation, and the constant question preseating | itself to my mind ts how the women whom | I have met here can go on? Way u y do not relapse into the savagery of Ui aborig- ines I am sure 1 can't divine. Rew ad from churches and schools, society and panionship of their kind, they yet cling to the customs of fer-away days, and teach | thelr children lessons of le; endary things— necessarily legendary, because ‘the poor creatures have no opportunity to learn from actual experience that anything better than | their own narrow contracted lives is to ve found outside of the fabulous tales that are told them by their parents, “It is a lonesome life,” my would-be host- | ess had said, and but for its novelty I would | have found it so. It must have come to je | inexpressibly dreary to her, for she had | kazed on the same towering mountains and | Wave-wished canons for years. The black malpais wastes had tormented her tired eyes tll she could almost see the huge waves of molten lava heaving themselves in ever receding, ever cooling billows over the little valleys. She had listened to the screams of the prowling panthers till her | heart stood still, while she counted her | brood to see that ‘the almost human cry did rot proceed from one of them. Lonely, in- | deed, it must have been. And then’ the perils of it, filled, as the country was, with | Frowling Indians and lawless men. | The: had been ta danger “from lightning end tempest; from plague, pestilence and fam- ine; from battle and murder, apd from sud. ten death,” yet they had not lost confidenc in God or man, and went bravely on, in that faith which is “the substance of things hcped for, the evidence of things not seen.” | ‘Truly, the martyrs are not all dead yet! ‘The Train Was the Town. In the course of a long experience I have interviewed numerous boarding hous I presume the genus is more varied in Wash- ington than In any other city in the United States. I have eaten “dairy lunches"— though I never used the napkins—have patd the prices demanded at swell cafes and hotels with a reputation. On vartous occa- sions 10-cent lunches, 15-cent iunch dinners, and even 25 cents for the full bill of fare have caught me in Washington restaurants, but never in all my life did I cat food set out as it was put forth on that boarding train. The surroundings, the society and the circumstances could never be duplicated. Once is enough. I am not like the little boy who was fond of mashing his toes because it felt so good when the got over hurting. My ideas of a boarding train were hazy enough before I came in contact with the barren life. In this far western country civilization has pot = sufficiently wpon nature's domain to build unnecessarily, even for boom purposes. Where the board- ing train stcod “the wilderness took up the tale,” and the country in its rock-ribbed sterility, was the abomination of desola- tion. Had it not been for the twin rails that creep out across the narrow valleys, like shining threads of steel, one could not imagine that the primeval condition of cre- ation had ever been disturbed. These shining rails represent triumphs of engineering skill hitherto unequaled. They cross tiny streams that swell to ber, nt rivers and crumble even the “eternal hilis.” They have.made pathways under gm mountains and girded their steeps gridirons, They have leaped over patois es and across mighty deserts, how be the a | cause of them men may bathe both oceans within @ week! enti —_ have cost their mal ns of money, yet for Ca ng their lines not a humen habitation keshifts can fou except farnishea by the aah for purpose sais uted tris t Rens is simply AX town on wheels. not just where one may iUaehs arene i Gene Ui aan jhad been these boarding traiha The railroads prefer them to houses, e in towns. If a gang setlled part of the fond It ts eomaparntively set Part ot ie fond, it com} vel easy to order the ‘Wwhiole train off, and the men thus have bed ‘and board provided. ‘The railroads furnish) the cars, but the peo- ple who take them do all the rest. train is usually | of condemned freight cars. The old-fashioned, low, nar- row ones that hawe been used for cattle and hogs—other than human. They have usually two windows on a side, so high up that a little woman: like Mrs. Lane will have to stand on ben. tip-toes or a_tumato box to se2 out. Theswide sliding doors at the sides will be framed in grease, a little- thicker and blacker on the lower edge and just as high up theypides as a man can reach with his grimy,hands. A rusty stove- pipe thrusts itself ip, through the roof of the kitchen, and g pile of emptied fruit cans will ornament; the earth on one side of the car, while a hummock of decaying refuse from the kitchen slop pail will fur- nish Incense on the other. So much for the general external appearance of a boarding train, Inside they differ, just as houses differ. If the means are forthcoming they can be made to look quite comfortable. The Lanes lacked means. Mrs. Lane was just returning from a visit to her mother in Santa Fe, whom she had not seen in four years, and she took back with her another baby to add to her cares and the brood of six she already had. She seemed so patient and cheerful; yet I know mothers who have pleasant homes, with only two, and often only one child, who make life a misery to themselves and every- body else because of their fancied “bur- dens.” Such poor, weak vessels as they are! Mrs, Lane weighs hardly a hundred, yet she is the-mother of seven children, ard she does uncomplainingly work t no woman ought to have to do—cooking for a thirty-five people. is a colleg: gi uate, too, and years and years ago, when she was as far removed from her present life as Mrs. Cleveland was from hers Mrs, Lane used to know “Frankie, which was the home name for Mrs. Cleveland. A Flying Switch, “Is she as pretty as ever?” Mrs. Lane asked me. “She used to have such a color. 1 wonder if she has much use for hei French? We once had the s.ime instruetor. And then she bent to socthe her-wailing babe, evidently without a thought of com- plain’ of the changes that time had wrought. “Our accomniodations are poor, but I trust the welcome will more than make up for them,” she said as she gave the tin wash basin a parting dusting, and got towels and a bit of broken mirror for my toilet table, which same was a dry goods box turned on cnd ant covered with a bleached flour sack. I never saw flour put to so many uses in my ilfe. My els were coarse flour sacks, with drawn < borlers and fringed The sheets on my bed were flour sacks neatly felled togeth and the pillow slips were of the fame accommods rt . I noticed as the two little L: knelt to say their ors at iron flour sack night L to dry the dis are 1 ner’s knee that they gowns, end when [ nes ia the morning wur sacks. They y bel of sweet- reak, when the began to get down to. bust- “4 and tooted, just outside rin Which I Was sleeping, } try to sleep une tert b rom inch planks set on tre: naged to dress myself and was lacing my boots, when tt med to me that th | whole end of the at must have eras! and I went sprawling in my now t niin hair ton 1 heard a fear ful crash of croekbey and tin, and just as I extricated it Mrs come run- | n y As she cant “1 ought wo when the + for the body or thine, nd ina f manner ch out alt the time wh ‘ hing. The sowiteh just now and a ttle harder n Soren 1 examined into rl alwa bat tt deal So ‘ viet with 1 to en you she turne conn thre tthe door in th 1 of the ca Phere is a terrible ness, but Ti have to watt tll breakfast Is over to clean it up, The Wreehed hiteh A terrible m ire enough! ‘That end of the car whieh we rxt to the hitchen | car had rows of shelve ach side, with slats in front, and it cooked food for the men wa The slats had evidently fatied of thetr purpax for that time at least, for all the contents of the dozen shelves lay upon the ioor, Stone jars of cooked prunes, pickles and one of molasses were emptied of cheir con- tents upon the floor, and the shattered stone ware was lying arcund in bits. Mixed with tis mess was @ part of a dish of boiled | rice, half a ham, twelve pies, a 5-pound can of almost liguid lard, innumerable cans of tomatoes, corn and beans, a dish of baked beans, salt, coffee, ter—in fa goods’ such as would last the Set away on che been bounced o:f by th: fearful up. Most of the tinned goods could be picked up, but the cooked viands were a hopeless loss. I picked up my skirts and stepped over the debris and the narrow plank that was laid frorn door to door cut in the ends of ot month or vin waking | the two cars and got my first glimpse of the inside of a boarding train kitchen. The long narrow car had been fixed up to the best advantage, but even that was poor enough for the purpose. In one stood the big range, sizzling hot, the sun was not yet peeping over the east- ern mountain tops, and from it came an odor of frying ham and of 5o!ting potatoes. In the opposite corner one of the small Lane girls was cutting nice white bread. She stood beside a chest-iike looking arrange- ment, just high enough for a table, and I found after breakfast that it was a “mix- ing trough” for bread. I discovered that when Mrs. Lane picked up a S-1b, sack of flour and poured half of it into the tcamint yeast in the cavernous depths of the chest. She was mixing bread for the boarders! In one corner furthest from the stove was a big cupboard built in the car, and as I came out another of the Lane ‘children—a boy this time—was taking a lot of broken dishes from the shelves. “Old 76 just everlastingly smashed things up this morning,” he observed cheerfully, as 1 paused to’ give nim good moming. “We allowed to have lots of things cooked up and be in good shape when mamma got back, so she wouldn't have to work so hard’ right at ficst,” he exclaimed, “but I guess we missed it.” The Ch!'dren Were Thoughtful. They were such old children. Jinnie was twelve, Bobbie ten, and then stairsteps from that down 'to’the month old baby, seven in all. The two older ones worked as though they fiiight have been twenty, and were bright, and courteous, though awkward and diffident. Not oné@ of them had ever been inside, of @ schcol room, yet they were great readers, the two older ones, and as soon as they got a chance told me with evideat pleasure that they were to take me to see the famous petrified forest only a few miles‘back; a trip which I did take, with them for éscorts, and the engi- neer for a driver. re made the trip on the engine, the forest, being only a half mile from the railroads « “We have read about the specimens in the museum in ington,” Jinnie told me, with shining ‘and we thought it would be so nice for you to see the where they came’from. Maybe you woul Lke to seo an Indian camp, real blanket Indians, and the dearest little Indian ba- dies! And, oh, we must let you learn to ead weeds with the In. me about the train!" tality for corner though aera tua Geet ete har tant ® that all the | Dee See anne sk emerale 018 ew feet were o1 pepper, mus- and vinegar in bottles, and sugar bowls ed by pitchers of diluted condensed milk, The viands were well cooked, I fou! and of fair quality. Ham, potatoes, cann tomatoes or canned corn, nice light bread, with hot cakes every other morning, my- lasses, good coffee, oleomargarine and oat- meal. That is the usual bill of fare for breakfast. For dinner the meat is beef, boiled or roasted, and there are three vesge- tables, one of which is usually baked beans. Always dessert, pie and “plum duff” alte:- nating. Boarders and Their Rights. “Yes, the men are pretty rough some- times,” was Mrs. Lane’s reply to my ques- ticn, as she gave me a chair in tHe kitchen, while she nursed the baby, and waited for the regular freight, due long before, to come alcng, so she could get water to make the manner, I don't often have any trouble unless I am sick, and have to get some man to come and cook. We can't keep a wo- man because it is too lonesome and the work too hard. Sometimes the bread is a failure, then they pick it all up and pitch it outdoor. If the butter is bad they will be very apt to decorate the walls of the car with it; and then I knew the why of those awful splashes of grease! “Once,” continued Mrs. Lane, in a reminiscent tone, “the cef- fee was very bad. I was ill, and there was a Mexican cook. The men did not Hke him | anyhow, and they discovered that the rea- | son the coffee was so weak was because he Lad only put in baié as tauea as nad vecu allowed him, and had sold the rest to the Indians. The men poured the whole boller- ful, nearly four gallons, In a washtub and put the Mexican in it and scrubbed him with a broom. If the vegetables are not cooked to their taste they amuse themselves by plastering the flunky with them.” But why do you allow them to do such awful things?” I asked in amazement. “We have nothing whatever to do with it,” she replied. ‘If we were to say anything some of the men would be apt to burn the cars about our heads. They are perfectly irresponsible, and the railroad company has no concern about how they act after they get their work done. The men say that they Fr for ‘good grub,’ and they mean to have it Imagine such a state of affairs about some of the boarding houses in Washington, where the “kick” coming might well be just as vigorous. It would probably have the effect of improving the table board. Anoth- er pleasant diversion, I learned, is kicking the table over if the meal is particularly bad. On the other hand, they roast a “tenderfoot” unmercifully, if he objects to the “grub.” The Animals Feed. Just as the new baby was dropping off to sleep the shriek of the freight whistle startled it into screams of fright, and the great lumbering train rushed up alongside of the sidetrack on which we stood, so that I might have touched it as I sat. A flat car with three great water tanks was halted beside the kitchen car. A hose at- tached to one of the tanks was immediately flung into the open door, and the end was | caught up by Mrs. Lane, and tossed up till it into the big iron tank in the corner opposite the dish cupboard. ‘This tank | held twenty or more barrels of water, and this was why no coffee could be made till the freight came along. They were out of | water, and there was none nearer than the railroad tank, fifteen miles away. Another of the amenities of boarding train life. When coal was needed, an hour later, the engine ran up beside the car and a’ few J chunks of coal were dumped off on the Kitchen floor. » the coffee was “boiled” the gave a stentorian whistle for t, and the wide doors of the dining were thrown open for the men to a@ good deal as hogs car enier, which they did wi to the trough, Mr, Lane acted as flunky—watter, In “United st it took the men’ about ten m “all | it # o'clock orders came for the train to a point about fifty miles west to HOUSEHOLD HINTS The Philosophy of Housekeeping Plainly Stated. A GOOD WAY 10 PREPARE SOAP FAT The Proportion of Cotton and Wool in a Fabric. " neared ccffee! I wondered, but waited. “When the a cooking is not up to their idea of what tt} CLEANING GILT FRAMES should be they object in a very emphatic es Written Exclusively for The Evening Star, I saw a floating item the cther day that every mother ought to keep beside her to read when the restless questioning little ones have worn her patience threadbare. It said: “Every question asked by a child's mind is a reaching out toward the soul of things, and every question rightly a and every law understood, stimulates the growth of the child's mind toward the worid | | around it.” Watch your children and do not let them sit or stand in a constrained position. An erect carriage is one of the greatest beauties of & human being, and the time to acquire it is In youth before the fault becomes a set- tled one. It is folly to wait tl a child is ten or a dozen years old, and then begin pecking and fuming because it has acquired bad habits of standing and walking. If you had been attending to your business proper- ly it would never have needed the correc- tion, Gilt frames may be cleaned by simply washing with a small sponge wet with hot spirits of wine or oll of turpentine, not too wet, but sufficiently to take off the dirt and flymarks. They should not afterward be wiped, but should be left to dry of them- selves, oe © @ The Berlin Medical Society recommends the following compound for purifying the atmosphere of the sick room: “Oil of rose- mary, lavender and thyme, in the propor- tons of ten, two and a half, and two and @ half parts, respectively, are mixed with water and nitric acid in the Proportion of thirty to one and a half, The bottle should be shaken before using, and a sponge satur- ated in the compound and left to diffuse by evaporation.” rails compound i said to ssess extraordinary roperties > ling odors and efftuvias ee hat consumption ts t linble to pass from father to daughter amd from mother to son. Life insurance com- perios are guided by this rule, ard if rents who are rearing @ family of children krcw of any consumptive traits in either side and would watch their children they might be able to nip such a direful disease in its incipter It is stated 1 . es 8 Rubber jewelry and brooches, hairpins and such articles as have faded can be re- stored to thelr pristine black by rubbing them with a paste matic of rottcnstone ard sweet oil, - & * 6 If your neighbor is not lovable, you need not love him, but you can do him Kood, all uld you find an opportunity, ae. oe Cotton and wool are so mixe: fabrics pretending to be ali woel that pur- chasers should be on their guard. A good text ts to Reparate the Warp and woof and hofd them in the flame. The pure wool be- comes & shapeless ash and ts extinguirhed 1 together in repair a bridge Phen everything h Olrectly it is removed from the flame, Cot- | taken down off the walls, the dish ton or Hnen thread, however, burns after | in the cupbe : y= oval from the flame, and tts form ts thing that would slip or side had to be | plainly distinguishable in the ash. Thread Jenchored, for a boatding train ia rough | eof a mixture of woul and cotton burns enough at best. Mrs, Lane then got her | !regularly, If you are not quite sure of Pbrvod around her und counted noses, “1 | the quality of the fabric, take & sample of xplained, “and the | IC home and test it, had to come on w followed us very soc at play among the rocks.” Think of that recor] for a six-' r-old girl, Yes, it is a hard life,” sald Mrs, Lane, reflectively, as she scraped potatoes for cinner, with the boarding train lumbering long at the rate of fifteen miles an hour, | “harder than T once though I could endure. t on the freight She had been but you know the ‘buck fs fitted to the burden," there are things that might be worse, We can all be together here. We would Hke to put Jinnie and Robbie tn school, but can't, so T teach them as well as I can, They are very fair readers, and | their father teaches them mathematics; they have excellent opportunities for study. ing natural history and botany, and have a small knowledge of Latin and French from me. Of course, they naturally pick up Spanish and many of the Indian dialects.” What a lesson In patience and submission! SENORA SARA. NAPOLEON'S DAINTY ‘TOLL! After His Morning Shave His Vv Scoured Him With Eau de Cologne. One of the most interesting articles found among the recent numerous essays upon the private life of Napoleon is on the toflet | of the emperor, which, it appears, was a most important matter, and regulated down to the smallest details with mathematical brecisicn. When awakened it was Napol- €on's custom to glance over the papers while the fires were Ht. He was sensitive to cold, and a fire was prepared in every room, even in midsummer. Then of dis- Unguished people awaiting an audience he would designate those whom he wished to see, after which he would rise and take a hot bath, lasting about an hour. The dally shaving was the next duty. Ordinarily his physician, Corvisart. would be present, chatting and securing favors for his friends. Napoleon's greeting was usually some bad- inage, such as, “Ah, charlatan! How many patients have you killed this morning’ And the physician would reply in kind. Two valets were necessary for shaving, one holding the basin and another the mirror. The emperor, in a flannel robe de chamber. then coverd his face with soap and began to shave. Throwing off his robe, Napoleon was next deluged with eau de cologne and subjected to a thorough scrubbing with a rough brush. The valet then rubbed the whole body with linen rolls saturated with eau de cologne—a custom that Napoleon had acquired in the east. The scrubbing was none of the lightest, either, for he would call out from time to time, “Harder—rub harder.’ When the scrubbing was over the emperor dressed himself. A curious detail of his costume was the religious care with which he kept hung round his neck the ttle leather envelope, shaped like a heart, which contained the poison that was to Uberate Bo in oats nein irretrievable re- verses of fortune. owas proper ed after a recipe that Cabanis had given to Corvisart, and after the year 1908 the em- | aad never undertook a campaign without ving his little packet of poison, ——_o+—_____. The Immortality That Is Now. house depends upon c- + 2. 6 Thore thrifty houxekeepers who make thetr own soap for kitchen use will find it gieatly to their advantage to prepare the. fat that is to be #o used in the following” manner: No matter how smail the quantity of tallow and suet, it can be clarified and made ft for use. Even if the grease in the ran seems burned, you can use it. As soon as you take the pan from the stove, after lifting the meat out, whether it is botled, baked or fried, pour a quart or more boll ing water into the pan and set it on the hot stove to botl up. Then set it where it will cool, and whcn the fut has hardened on the top of the water you can lift the cake right off. Sometimes there will be bits of the meat and fragments of the veg- etables clinging to it. Put it into another pan, and put more hot water on it and let it boil up; then cool as before. It will gen- erully come out clear the last time. Put it away in a stone jar or tin bucket in a cool place till you have collected enoagh. Some careful housewives never buy an ounce of Kitchen soap, but make it all. It has an- other advantage, in that it is perfectly pure, and most of the soap that one buys is not. By using borsx and a little per- fumery you can make an excellent tolict scap. ee se ee If you have an old muslin dress that ts perfectly good, but faded, boll it in a strong sal soda water, and then put‘on the grass and keep it dampened for a few days. It will bleach out white and be as nice as ever. Calicoes, lawns and mulls can all be bleached this way. oe © we “I simply detest housekeeping, and I don’t intend to wear my life out baking and broiling.” That was the remarkabie utterance of a few months’ old wife, who has recently married a clerk in one of the departments on a salary of $1.00 a year. Anybody with half a mind can easily pic- ture the probable outcome of that mar- riage, unless the man is a saint, and he {sn’t. No man who would marry such a foolish woman could have sense enough to be a saint. It is disgusting to hear a mar- ried woman say that household duties are distasteful to her. They may be untnterest- ing, for most of the necessary occupations of iife bore us, unless we take an abiding interest in them; accordingly, as we do this, they become bearable, even if they are not agreeable, and when such tasks are duties from which we cannot escape, and which we are bound to perform, it is surely the part of wisdom to try to render them as little distasteful as possible. Un- der most circumstances and at the best of times housekeeping ts a disagreeable oc- cupation, but as ft is impossible for one in moderate circumstances to evade it, the best plan is to exact from it every atom of interest, which it t« capable of ylelding. It is surely quite possibile for any woman of average intelligence to become. after a few months of cxperience, a perfectiy capa. ble housekeeper, even if she is not a “born” And if she fails to do 80, it is safe to wager that her home is not well kept, and her husband is uncomfortable in it, if not unhappy. A womau has no right to con- sider only herself in the matter. She must re- member that the comfort of the whole a said that memory ts 1 Household, her gulp nd pieasure should _ fe. uty al nd that, though dead, men are altve: be to add by every means in her F to from ote the comfort of all beneath her root, "A wo. Jive because their works survive, man who has not made up her mind to That ‘imme : endure all the trials of a housewife and to That though ou: parts are brought sccept all the duties that the title “wife” reunite with all render obligatory upon her is a fool to yt et live marry at all, and the man who is so unfor- ee eet on ox tunate as to get her is to be pitied. Bteroal fe to every Po web of things Be joined by lines se ered, | excuse for being sordid. In point of fact, “hard times” are always, in part. the ree sult of people not spending, for it no one spends, no one can sell, so all suffer, and hence “hard t . . . Teach your girls that a calico dress fits better than a silk one unpaid for, Teach them that a round healthy face displays greater hutelligence than fifty pale lacks dairical ones. Teach them good common sense, self trust, self help and industry Teach them then an honest mechanic im bis working dress ts better ditted for a hus band than a flashily dressed dude whose clothes are unpaid for witely accomplish: in with you ca) music, paint arts, but Jet them be secondary Teach them to reject all shams » appearances such © your hi Giris who grow Wisely enforced, we art ack Sometime: ou can g of delicat wis in the foll ma or Saturate the material with be i rub it gently, then put a piece of blottiag paper r it and two pieces over ! a bot nit and jet it heat the several layers through for a few moments A friend of mine says that this ts the best washing fluid in the world, Holl three gallons of soft water and pat | pound of unsiaked lime pour off; add three pounds of and mix with lime wa bing soda When dis- solved use one-half coffee cup to a patiful of water. ¢-@-e © A nice ent easily made in a hurry of terials always’ at hand, ts styled a bread crumb omelet.” One pint of fine dry bread crumbs, a. te: nful of dried parsley, one spoonful of finely minced om- fons, two egics int of good xweet milk, one tablespoonful of butter and pepper and salt are the ingredients. Beat the ees to @ froth and mix with the milk; then add the other ingredients, Butter a pan, put the crumbs in if, and pour the over it. Bake to a light brown and at once. . +. + 6: Cyclists will be pleased to learn this remety for a balky wick in the lanterns that Woshington laws make ary to have burning whether the moon shines or not. Immerse the wick in a strong solution of salt, allow it to dry, then dp it a second time in the salt water, to which has been added a lke quantity of oil, Then take it out and put in the lamp. It ix said that @ wick so treate! will not smoke, and that it gives a much brighter light, as well as burning more sparingly. 2. 2 6 The indiscriminate diet a! 1 children by their mothers is a most prolific cause of stomach anf bowel complaint. For ine stance, in the most of families, «hildren not ever two years of age, or ax soon as they are able, are allowed to sit at the table and indulge in all the kinds of food that may be thereon—hot rolls, hot buttered cakes, sausage, fish, Lam, cucumbers, new potas tces, and all other vegetables, pastry of all kinds, preserves, cheese, sw ats and fruit—not one of which ts fit for a very young child to eat unless expecially pre- pared for it. It is a marvel if the digestive | Organs do not break down under a diet that will make a grunting gout-ridden creature of a grown man if persisted in. Mothers would save themselves much care and suf- fering, perhaps heartache, if they would | have a little more care about what they let their little ones eat. Th: is « fearful mortality of children between the years of two and five, and mostly in bowel com- plaints. A professional man of over forty years standing eaid to me the other day that there is much more sickness among very young now than there was a third @ century ago, and he ts of the opinion that the mothers are to blame, primarily, because they are xo careless of what their | Hutle ones ent. Irregular eating in with healthy digestion in a child ¢ than it does wit mothers their hours of the day, end eat quantities candy and fruit between tim say that it is the will or ordering of I [idence when death steps in. Provid | haw enough to bear without shoving jit the burdens of Lens, os, and Ton pur Own Witting carelesn To take a Kreare xpot out of a cart, do | not use water and soap. Sprinkle over st an inch of buckwheat flour and let it for veral hours. Sweep it up on the dust pan y again; it may take several ap- plications if the spot is old, but if you will persevere the buckwheat will do the busl- ness, The genticman must always be presented jto the lady. This rule is invariable, except | when the gentieman ts very old and the | lady very young, when deference to age may prompt a reversal of the rule. A youn man should always be presented t> the | one, and a young man to an elder. Be sure to enunciate names distinctly, and if titles are used, be sure to give them so that they may be understood. It is always pleasant | to say somethirg concerning ones In- troduced, 80 as to start convers: on eastl If one is of the army, and the other a statesman, or one a writer of books and the other just a common man, it is the part of @ tactful hostess to make known the talents of her guests. . er * 8 © « In catering to sick people remember that hot things ehould be very hot when they @re for a delicate appetite. Likewise cold things shoull be very cold. Lukewarm anything, whether food, sentiments or labor § is most detestable of all things. The Bible is bitterest against the “lukewarm,” and it seem: have set the pace for the world in everything else. oe 8 . Hot milk is one of the very best stim: ulants for a person weak from hunger or long fasting. It goes right to the spot quicker than anything else, and helps build up at the same time. A salt poultice, moistened with vinegar, is one of the best things in the w wld to relieve pain from the sting of a bee or wasp. A paste of common earth and water 1s good alro, se ee French dressing is recommen dle every kind ef salad, and here is the way it is made: Put one-half of a tecspoonfil of salt in a bowi-and add three tablespoon- fule of off; stir til the salt is dissolved. Then add cne tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, gradually, stirring all the while. Stir til the vinegar and oil are thoroughly mixed. Serve at once. ACQUIRED FAGIA L EXPRESSION. Effects of Will and Occapation Upon the human Countenance. The compressed lip, so Joved (and so often misinterpreted) by novelists, is a sign of weakness rather than strength, says the Popular Science Monthly. It tells of per- petual conflicts in which the reserves are called into the fray. The strong will is not agitated into strenuous action by the small worries of the hour, and the great occasions which call for its whole forces are too few to produce a permanent impress of this kind upon the features. The com- manding officer, assured of his men’s obedi- ence, does not habitually keep his lip mus- cles in a state of tension. Look at the sea captain, the most absolute monarch on earth. He carries wegag Ad power in his face, but tt resides in eye and the confident assurance of his easily set mouth. Every spar and shaft and muscle in his age > By aap must obey him, and he knows: it. pd py @ Teason why the sea captains the engine drivers show a cer- tain similarity of type. The engine driver can make his ve giant, strong as 10,- 000 men, obey the pressure of his finger. His lips are usually calm, like thoxe of the statues of the wielder of thunderbolts on Olympus. Who ever saw a man command- ing @ man-of-war or driving a locomotive with the contentious ~$d Ay ny § The typical expressions of the mem| those three liberal professions which Bir Thomas Browne says are all founded upon the fall of Adam are well enough recog- nized to have been the prey of the caricaturist, The se distinctive traits of each and the possible causes which xive rise to them are too complex to be dealt with In a et article. Speaking very is indicative of authority (of the thin-lipped kind) and of a dignified sense of the sanctity of his office, The doctor's jaw and mouth are tear rigid, yet tell of decision. His eye is vigilant pect ‘Jonveye the idea ete unt’ of, une goaverst a fun un-