Evening Star Newspaper, June 2, 1894, Page 18

late an overskirt. For high colored ging- hams, madras and fags there are em- broideries on strong fine cloth done in colors and they are as pretty as can be. The pat- terns are not elaborate, just an edge, and dots and stars. In one of the big shops the other day I happened to be standing beside some cases from which new wash goods were being taken, and I think. I never saw anything prettier than some of the lawns. There Was one in satin and lace stripe. The lace stripe was an inch wide, in g-enadine effect, and the satin stripe had running through it @ bouquet clustered vine of moss roses in the natural colors. It was simply exquisite. THE SUMMER GIRL She Runs to Elegant Simplicity, Which is Very Expensive. SOME HOT WEATHER DRESS MATERIALS The Horror of the Wash Tub and How to Conquer It GOWNS FOR OCCASIONS Like an Apple Blossom. There was another with ragged robins, and a third with Scotch thistles, all naturally colored. A pretty girl would look like a Dresden china shepherdess in such a gown. Of course, it should never be profaned with starch, and the colons are “oil” and lasting. Decorated Ribbons. On another counter I found some new rib- bons, white, with. bouquets of flowers stamped on them, for all the world like printed muslins are made. They come in widths from one inch to twelve, and are quite the prettiest thing in ribbons that I have seen. They look so summery and Sweet, twisted into pretty little bows, such as lurk all over the new gowns. Some peo- ple call them “crab bows,” which is simply horrid! They are Louis Sieze bows, and be- long to the period of slender women with long throats and curling hair, the type of women represented by the Bourbon queens, who wore powdered hair and high heels. These bows are now a part of the hair garniture. But the woman who dares must be an artist! It should be a perky little affeir, self assertive, and piquant in expression, and the color must be se- lected with care so that. it wilt compliment the eyes, adding brilliancy or deepening their color; managed that way the bow in the hair is quite effective. But for good- ness sake, don’t go stick on any color of ribbon just because you want a bow. It must harmonize with your gown, your hat, your hair and your eyes; if it fails in any particular to do this you would better leave it off, for {t will look outre in the extreme. Summer wools were never prettier. An extremely graceful gown for early wear at the seashore is of ecru canvas. The skirt escapes the gfound entirely and is rather close-fitting, with the fullness at the back. The overskirt hangs plainly in the back and is cut longer on the left side, where it is draped in ripples lined with brown satin and caught with a pearl buckle. The bodice is round and draped over in double-breasted fashion, the trim- ming being bands of heavy silk Bourdon. The capelets over the shquiders are of brown satin and the hat ts of brown &nd Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HE SUMMER CIRL who has been budding for some time is now ready to burst into { bloom, and she is cer- tainly a thing of in beauty, if not a joy )) forever. The summer y girl is very largely a tailor-made girl in winter, and she hates mightily to give up her trim, neat suits, so she tries to form her summer gowns gfter the same fashions, and succeeds ad- tnirably. But Low she does fool the men! Men admire the tailor-made girl, but they @eplore the cost of her. They know what tailors’ bills are, and they know also that only the practiced hand can shape the ex- Muisitely modeled garments into which the costliest of fabrics enter, and they know, too, that the dainty boots, gloves and hats which accompany such gowns are of the Snest manufacture, hence, expensive. They @dore the summer girl.and give her fulsome compliments on the exquisite simplicity of her attire, not knowing that {t costs as Much again as the winter gowning! Ele gance of any kind costs money—lots of Money; but elegant simplicity is simply the = of expensiveness in gowning. But, you! you can’t make the men believe Ecru Canvas. yet those of them who wear white duck and cream flannel tennis suits ht to know something about it. The tailor-made summer girl's trosseau uns to duck, linen and white wools. The ick and linens are tailor made. Some- they are pretty and quite often they not. It is a pity, but a fact, neverthe- that cottons hog Hoey white ro be no Shey get grimy and have to be laundered or cast aaiie. With all the discoveries that Science has made, the art lies sleeping yet that will give to womankind a fotton that will not fade or “full,” or, to use the common term, “draw up” in wash- . The pretty duck and linen sults are so pting, with their plain, trim skirts and unty jackets, but when they come from @ wash tub they are certainly a sight. If material has been a bit twisted in the cutting, or the patterns have been laid on @wry, it all shows in the laundering, and often all but ruins the usefulness of the ent. A little care in the matter of se- ‘ting and cutting out would simplify mat- Recent Styles and Materials. A dainty visiting gown for a young matron is a shade of serge almost yellow in color. The long full skirt is open at the side over the plain skirt and draped up.with a bow of the black Bourdon which borders it. The round waist has a When you are purchasing be careful to Pelect only such materials as are printed Straight and that are not twisted in the ressing till the filling runs almost bias of ‘the fabric. A woman who is used to cut- ting knows what a criss-cross-cut-on-the- Dias it gives some materials to tear them @cross instead of cutting, and if you do Bot discover this defect and correct it be- fore starting on your work it will be for Baught, for nothing human could wear such garment with any comfort or self-respect. ven the end of the fabric by pulling a thread, and then you have a starting point. If the goods is dressed crooked, “pull” it till it is straight and then press it into shape with a hot iron. Lawns, muslins and @alicoes are more apt to be crooked than “ny other kinds of goods. Lay your pat- Organgi and Lace. ruffle and a belt of the lace, which also borders the zigzag fastening of the front. Full plaited capelets of serge fall over glace silk sleeves and the small hat is of black lace with sweet peas peeping out of its puffs. The old-fashioned barege worn fifty years ago is once more popular, and some of it is pretty enough, too. One that I saw re- cently looks like an apple blossom for daintiness. It was of striped pink and white, and is made with a very full skirt. A band of pink moire ribbons runs from the side waist line to a point at the bottom of the skirt in front, where it ends in a big Louis Seize bow. The bodice is cut on the bias of the goods, with a full back and front. Over the sleeves hang three cape- lets of white mousselaine de sole, edged with pink moire ribbon, and above them on the shoulders are great big bows of pink moire ribbon. The collar is of pink moire. The gloves are white suede, and the parasol is a shimmer of chiffon and white moire. The picturesque big hat is white, lined with black velvet, and has drooping pink and white plumes. A very elegant gown for a matron is black organdie over black satin, the or- gandie striped with a dull green thread, on which is hung clusters of rosebuds in pink, with green leaves. A simulated overskirt is formed of long folds of the organdie, caught at the foot of the dress by festoons 1s on the fabric With the straight of the . If you vary the sixteenth part of an ch from this rule your dress waist, par- cularly if it is plain, will run bias of your Back in the most exasperating manner, an | dress skirt will “hike” up in most un- pected places. Make your wash dresses without lining possible. Cut the dress skirt two inches ger ali around than required and turn in that much at the top and baste thi 4 on instead of stitching. When the skirt ts laundered—or rather before you con- it to the suds—rip the belt off and let wn the skirt, sewing the belt on tight. en it comes home you will find that {t just about the right length, but if it had ™ put on the belt in the ordinary way, With no extra length to fall back on, you ould have had a scandalously short dress gm your hands to be pieced down or cast ide. If the skirt has ruffles on it you can ke it with less trouble by fastening firm- on the belt as usual and then running tuck on the wrong side just above the ffle close to the heading, where it cannot discovered at all. Before washing, rip e tuck open and your frock will come Bome just about as good as new. If the Material is duck or linen, it is best to turn &t im at the top. The Laundry in View. Always make the waist and jacket of a wash dress a little large, and take deep seams. If fastened to a belt, leave at least two inches at the bottom; you will Reed it all after the first washing. It it Is & basque or jacket bodice, about all you can o is to run the seams down a little longer, Or, as the dressmaker says, “take them up” a little to make the form longer. You can rly ‘ays remedy these defects a waist by ruffles and folds or by trimming with lace, but a little care in ¢utting will save you a great deal of trouble later on. For a garden party nothing could be Do not trim wash dresses with puffs, shirrs | prettier than a full-skirted organdie, worn or plaiting. It makes them three times as | over robin’s egg blue silk, such as I caught costly to launder, and they never look as/a glimpse of yesterday. The skirt had a Well after one washing. Leave such garnt-| deep border of pink in scroll-like design on ture for the aft licht-weizht wools or silks,/a sheer white ground, and was caught to and trim your dimities and ducks with em- | the blue silk slip by big bows of blue moire broideries or laces. There is no prettier| ribbon. There was a soft folded girdle of trimming in the world than lace and em-| the blue moire, and bows of the same above broidery, «und they are extraordinarily | the shoulders, as Well as a fold around the cheap. of the summer fancies is to use| neck. Two rows of blue chiffon reached embroidery on wash silks. Two or three/ across the bust, and the hat was white pt of narrow embroidery at the foot of | crepe, with white moire ribbon bows and Por a Garden Party. of chantilly lace, extending clear around the dress. The bodice gnd sleeves are made very full, and caught"in harlequin fashion and are trimmed with falls e skirt, and sometimes it is used to simu- pink sweet peas set on the GOING TO EUROPE Senora Sara Tells All About Lady's Outfit. AVOID THE BOTHER OF MANY CLOTHES Land Travel. HINTS TO TRAVELERS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. ELL, MARY GOT away in good style, and we are taking a peeded rest. It is quite remarkable how much energy one may expend in get- ting somebody else ready for a trip, with- out realizing it until after it is all over. I think that if I had to get seven girls ready for an ex- tended tour, as they discussed for one awful half hour one day, I would beg to be sent to St. Elizabeth's instead. Of course, I managed to get mixed up in getting Mary ready, because the most of the planning was done at our house, Mary has a limited sum for expenses, and as Elaine has been several times abroad, and has twice made the tour of the world, Mary was glad to avail herself of her ex- | Perience. Quite sensibly, Mary preferred to use most of her money for her journey, instead of spending it for clothes, which she would have small opportunity to wear, It is such a great mistake to start on an ocean voy- age incumbered with a lot of baggage. In most foreign countries it is vastly different from what it is here, for you pay for every pound of baggage you do not carry in your hands. The system of checking which ob- tains here is not in vogue over there, and you have to follow up your baggage every change that is made, and see that none of it is left behind. This paying for one’s “boxes” at every hand's turn is an expen- sive business, adding about one-fourth to the cost of your ticket, besides being troublesome. After being coached by Elaine, Mary concluded to “live in a valise and hand-bag” after she got across the “pond.” “It is so entirely unnecessary to spend a lot of money when traveling,” said Elaine. “It is our silly extravagance in this respect that has made us a laughing stock abroad. An American is considered legitimate prey everywhere, and pays three times as much for the same fun that an Englishman would. He always wants to travel ‘first class,’ which is snobbish, and the more a thiig costs the better, in his opinion. Experience is Worth Something. “Some of the very pleasantest incidents of my trips abroad were due to the lack of accommodations, which threw me with weil-bred English people, who, like my- self, were touring ‘second class.’ If one is going to travel for comfort oyly one might as well remain at home in che library, reading of the adventures of others. I like to feel things myself and to have experiences of my own. If I had been companied and catered to by my own chef on board the ship, us the Vanderbilts and Bradly-Martins are, when they go to Europe, having their meais served in their own dining room, I would have known Costumes for the Ocean and for |®°t across the ocean. Her traveling dre: SATURDAY, JUNE 9, 1804—TWENTY PAGES, through the brass rings sewed on for the Purpose, and in it sue could put all her tollet articles, shoes and such things, to keep them from flying around with the ship's rolling. She had alsoa steamer chair, ore of the high back kind, with a support a sa ppen teats She had her name put on it big letters, and got a handsome steamer rug. All these things she will leave at Queenstown until she starts home, the storage prices being very small. ‘Yhe Traveling Dress. Living ‘n a “grip sack” seemed a novel idea to a girl who was rather fastidious in her notions, but she concluded to try it, and packed it to remain unopened until she is the finest quality of blue serge. Elaine thought it would be the lightest weight Warm wool that she could get, and it is certainly the most serviceable, because the dust will shake right out of it, and it does not spot easily. It is made very plainly for service. ‘the skirt is tour yards wide at the bottom, is lined with silk, and has three Tows of heavy stitchug in blue silk. It fastens to the let or te front under a silk bound flap, and on the corresponding right is anotner fap, under which is a capacious pocket. “he waist is sligntly rounded back and front, ana douple-breast- ed, with two rows of dark pearl buttons, high standing collar, smail reveres of biue moire, and medium mutton leg sieeves. The jacket is a long Prince Albert, lined with Gark blue satin and faced with biue moire. ‘Ehe sieeves are perfectly immense mutton- leg, lined with biue satin, making it very easy to pull on and off. The hat to wear With this is a small toque turban of biue Straw, with pretty choux of blue moire rib- bon and a tiue pompon. Most girls would have worn the Ubiquitous sailor, but a smail close-fitting toque is much better, because you can sicep in it if you like and it wiil not break it or hurt your head. For steam- er wear she has a jaunty white yachung cap. That was the way Mary looked as she waved us good-bye, for it was a cool, rainy day, but she is fixed for warm weather also. She has to wear with the serge a pretty Waistcoat of blue moire, and then she has three shirt waists—one of tucked white silk, a blagk surah made on a tight lining, rather a dressy affair, and a blue and white silk blouse. “With ‘these, and a heavy blanket shawl, she is prepared for any kind of weather. She wore a fine black cloth petticoat, and has a black silk one also. ‘Those are all the petticoats that she took— white ones would be out of place. She has two suits of fine black merino underwear and three of cream silk. Then she had four pairs of cotton hose—silk and lisle-are not good to travel in—two dozen handkerchiefs, a black India silk night dress, two fine white night dresses and a gray flannel wrapper. The Extra Gown. Now I must tell you how she planned for an extra dress that would answer all cere- monious purposes. She got an elegant qual- ity of black satin duchess and had it made demi train, with three ruffles, only an inch wide each, on the bottom and no lining; that was to save weight and room in pack- ing, but it is so thick and heavy that it hangs beautifully. ‘The waist is made quite stylishly, with puffed sleeves and some fine lace garniture, so that it will answer for a visiting or carriage dress. Then she has another bodice of cardinal bengaline, made in regular evening style, with a lot of jet and lace on it. That fixes her with dresses for any occasion whatever, whether a din- ner, theater party, lawn fete or coaching trip. Mary's idea for a dress hat Is all her own, and I think she ought to get a patent on it. She made a band of buckram to ex- actly fit her head, wired it on both edges and covered it with black velvet. Where it is to join in the back she put a cute lttle bow of black velvet. Over the band, which is about an inch and a half wide, she put a full ruffle of fine lace, which is caught in rosettes with small jet buckles. In the front is @ spray of fine jet set in a choux of lace. This band she lays flat in a fan box, and when she wants to wear it all she has to do is to fasten the ends under the black velvet bow and straighten up the jet spray. She has tucked away among her gloves and veils a cluster of pink velvet roses, that she will use on the hat if she sces fit. Now I call it really a brilliant idea. Besides the thick soled fine boots that she wore away, she has a pair of still finer ones, her slippers, and a pair of walking shoes. It is odd, but no American squanders any money on foreign-made shoes if he can help it. The finest shoes in the world are made in the United States, and when our people nothing about the exquisite dining facilities | $0 over to Europe they always go supplied of an ocean steamer. If one has a full corps of one’s own servants to wait on one, with foot wear. Mary had also a pair of gum shoes, and a handsome rain coat. Her in one’s own suite of rooms, which have| Umbrella was @ fine black silk one, and been furnished with one’s own pictures, books, piano, carpets and curtains, as some tucked away in her bay was a lace cover for it, which could be aujusted in five min- rich New Yorkers travel, one gets none of} Utes’ time. It was black net made on a the new pleasure of an ocean voyage, be- cause there is always the air of home hang- ing around the surroundings, and it makes it all so unreal, “I know society women who go abroad two or three times a year who realize next to nothing of the reai enjoyment and pleas- ure of the Bohemian life that may be had aboard ship, if one is not too ‘stuck up’ seek it. Then, when they get to London, they know nothing of anybody or anything but somebody's shooting box or lord the ether’s country house. Of the historic part of foreign countries, of the mountains, ri ers or scenery they are as ignorant as a child. They carry silk sheets and pillow slips, and burden themselves with rubber bath tubs and gallons of cologne. Quite often their boxes get lost in the shuffle, and it is always the box that holds the neces- sary articles that is missing, so that the crumpled rose leaf is always digging into madame’s tender flesh in spite of her lavish expenditure of money. We who travel light have no cares outside of keeping our prec- fous selves out of immediate danger, so are always happy.” Mary had one of her big trunk: ch as she carries in triplets when she goes to the mountains or seaside, brought down to her room one day while Elaine was there, in- tending to have her oversee its packing. “My patience, child!’ she exclaimed, as the yawning thing was thrown open, “don’t you know that the cost of packing that trunk around would pay your expenses for two or three weeks?" Clothes for the Steamer. “Why, what can I take, then?” ques- tioned Mary, piteously. And it was that which brought forth Elaine’s remarks about the silliness of burdening one’s self with baggage. “Now, I would have a steamer trunk,” she said, “one of the kind small enough to slip under the berth and be out of the way. In that ‘trunk should be put everything that you will want to use on the steamer, and as soon as you are across you can put it in storage till you return.” “But what will I put in the steamer trunk?" questioned Mary. “Won't the Same things do for steamer and tour, too?” “No, indeed,” was the emphatic response. “If you care to be much on deck, and I am Pretty sure you will, there will not be a Stitch of clothing that you wear on board ship that will do to wear on land. Salt wa- ter, sea air, ship grease and fresh paint, which is all around, will make a mess of your clothes ip short order; add to this the splendid opportunities for depositing hot gravy and meat, scalding coffee and other viands on your lap, and you will see that a steamer dress has a troubled career before it. Now, here is about what I took on my second trip. I won't tell of my first one, for I made such an egregious fool of myself with my trunks and boxes, bags and bun- dies. I had more sense when I went a se ond time. I had a handsome cheviot travel- which I wore until the ship steamed out; then I packed it away until we reached Queenstown. In its stead I put on a heavy blue storm serge dress, made with Quaker plainness, which had seen a Season’s service, The Ocean Wardrobe. “In my steamer trunk I had a black bengaline dinner dress, which had al Seen good service; then I had a dark flan- nel wrapper, a heavy cloth ulster with cape, @ macintosh and gum shoes, flannel night dresses and merino underclothing, chamber slippers, walking shoes, long thick veil to tie around my head, thick gloves, a small case of medicines, hot water bag, a bottle of whisky, one of ammonia and several dozen lemons. I had a little bag with sewing and mending implements in it, and a case for my toilet articles. I found that these were all I needed on board the steamer. If we had a little concert, or im- promptu affair of any kind, my black sili made a pretty evening dre: When I was seasick—and I assure you I paid full tribute to Neptune—my flannel wrapper proved in- valuable, for I could slip it on over my night dress and not make a spectacle of myself, as a great many did. One thing that few women realize when they start on a foreign tour is the absolute necessity for warm woolen underclothing. On board hip it is the only thing that will make you comfortable on deck, and on the continent the changes are so sudden and so great that it fs just as necessary there. J ‘Thus it happened that Mary made ready for her journey under the efficient aid given by Elaine. She got a steamer trunk and packed it as Elaine told her, adding a )few things, such as had suggested them- selves to her mind; among others was a | wall pocket. It was simply a yard square, | of blue demin, bound with braid, with three rows of pockets on it, the strip at the top having six, the middle four and the bottom only two. This was to hang on the wall of her state room, where it could be tacked | { | foundation of gauze, the same principle as the lace covers for cab canopies. It had a big molre bow at the top where the ferule goes through, and a butterfly bow at the point of each rib, concealing the black sefety pin that fastens it to the umbreila. Of course, she had a full set of the neces- sary toilet articles, with wash cloths, soap and brush broom. She had, too, a small medicine case with several simple remedies, such as are so necessary, and everybody knows how to administer, In Place of a Valise. At Elaine's suggestion she got one of the tiny alcohol stoves, such as come in a tin case and could be carried in the pocket, but which will cook an egg or boil a pot of coffee in five minutes, and a tin pan and some candles. Mary was nearly paralyzed when Elaine made that suggestion, but she explained that the hotels in many of the foreign countries were of a primitive kind, with no fires, baths, or lighted except as you paid for them extra, with a penny or two every time you turn round for service, and that often the getting of a pitcher of hot water or a light was a work of time. So the stove and quart pan were added to the list.Mary was in despair when she got all the things together beside her big new valise, and tound that it would not hold the half of them. The girls were sitting helplessly around viewing the situation, when Elaine arrived. She unrolled a long package and tossed it down beside the valise, threw her hat and jacket aside and knelt beside the pile of things. “Just give me your flannel wrapper, boots, Satin dress, those extra waists and that Petticoat. After I have disposed of those I will see what I can do with the other things: I knew you could never get all the stuff in that one bag, so I brought this over; it isn’t so pretty, but it is very handy.” The girls were fairly tumbling over each other in their efforts to help, and see what Blaine was going to do. The article she threw on the floor and proceeded to fill up was one of the most convenient arrange- ments I ever saw. It was made of dark blue canvas, one solid piece, a yard long, and not quite as wide as long, lined with blue satine, and bound with braid. Six inches was left at one end for a lap, and rad four straps with buttonholes; on the other end were buttons to correspond. On the lower end were three pockets, each about twelve Inches deep, made of satme, and above, covering the other half of the space, were two pockets, all made slightly full, with a rubber tape in the top. On each edge of the canvas were seventeen brass rings, those at the top being sown just below the six-Inch lap. In the center, between the two rows of pockets and at the edge, were two long tapes; these ran right and left through the rings at the sides. At the lower left hand corner was another tape, and still another at the upper right hand corner. After Elaine had filled all the pockets ‘to their utmost capacity, folded the thing together, laced the ‘oO ends together, over and over, like a boot, and tied the tapes at the right hand corner. Then she caught the end tapes ard drew them tightly together, tied them, buttoned the laps over, and the thing looked like a nice fat sofa bolster! A Trim Figure. “There,” she said, as she sprang to her feet. “All you have to do now is to fold your shawl around it, fasten it with a shawl strap,and—there you are! Now for the valise.” And in ten minutes she had every- thing in it and room for more! Mary soon supplied the “more” by discovering her Portfollo on the couch, her soap box on the window seat, towels on the rocking chair and novels in the hammock. How Mary's face did beam as she bade us good-bye! She was as trim a figure as you would care to see as she ieft for New York to meet her Aunt Betty and Uncle John. “Have you lost your watch already?” asked Bobbie, as she missed the familiar bit of adornment, while we stood waiting for the gates to open. “Indeed, I have not!" she exclaimed, in- dignantly. “It is very bad taste to wear jewelry when one is traveling, so I have hung my watch by a black tape around my neck, my diamond earrings and ring and my necklace and brooch are in a chamois bag inside my bodice. My smelling salts are in my pocket and my money—well, if anybody gets that my shoes will have to be unbuttoned. Anh! there is the gentleman who is to place me in Aunt Betty's care, I wish—you were—all going! Oh, I believe—I —am going—to—to cry! Good-bye—I'll write from—" and the rest was lost in the shriek of the engine wii! SENORA SARA. FOR OVER-INDULGENCE Use Horsford’s Acid Phosphate. Think of you: head in the morning after a night's hard labor, aud Horsford’s Acid Phosphate for speedy relief. IN THE OPEN AIR How French Women Enjoy Them- selves in Fine Weather. NEW CUSTOMS BEING INTRODUCED Many of the Old-Fashioned People Are Anxious. SOME OF THE SPORTS Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. PARIS, May 15, 1894, ENCH WOMEN FE taking to the open . They swim,yacht, shoot, walk, play lawn tennis and go riding on mail coach- es; while in the as- tounding sight of Paris femtninity on wheela—the new bi- cycling —_craze--old- fashioned people see a serious danger for the future customs of their daughters. These are the same old-fashioned people who have trained their daughters up to look upon their sex with thoughts which would seem strange to Anglo-Saxon girls. The mcre progressive and more liberal Frenchmen look upon the movement with mixed doubt and hope. Will mademoiselle become more frank, less conscious of her femininity, less oriental in her ways and works? lt is a bard thing to believe. Octave Uzanne has given a hint of his impression in an aphor- It is to Wear au Amazone, ism: “All sport becomes, for the contem- porary Parisian, a plausible pretext, a trav- esty. Suppress the amazone, adieu the horse. Withdraw the boating dress, the bi- cycle costume, the hunting regiment and the fencing tights, and all the manly sports of femininity will disappear.” To the Pa- risian this explanation fs most comfortable. In comparison with the bicycle (bicy- clette), the more aristocratic art of jorse- manship is called “gentlemanlike” in French. They have imported this, with many other English words, into the lan- Guage of the best society. “Sport” (pro- nounced “spor”’), “lawn-tennis” (“laf’n-ten- nis"), “‘five-o’clock-tea,” (which becomes simply “fev-uh-cluck”), all show the Eng- lish influence at work. There is more An- slomania in high Parisian society than in New York. And so the art of horseman- ship, which has been lost to the French national taste since the commencement of the railways, maintains today an only ar- tificial vogue, because it is an English cus- tom to be imitated. Outside the army, it is @ pure and simple sign of social smartness. Think of the natural disposition of the Paris girl, the very essence of true physical in- ertia. Why should she leave her book, her chat, her perfumes, her religion and her bon bons except to find a husband or a lover; except to show herself to more advan- tage? On the other hand, the mail coach (the word has become French), is a “hygienic distraction” peculiarly well fitted to the temper of the Parisienne. It is not true that the mail coach comes to Paris by way of Mr. James Gordon Bennett. The public coach still starts from the Herald office, fifteen francs, go and return to St. Ger- main, or Versailles, including breakfast. It is a pretty trip for tourists, and several gen- tlemen of good family and fashion have found a cheerful occupation in conducting them. But this is not the coaching of the Paris gigh-world. For a picture of the true article, one must frequent the road to Fon- — or read the Paris Figaro, as fol- low: true aquarelle of Dubucourt, evoking souvenirs of the epoch when dawning An- glomania changed the Comte d’ Artois into On the River. an English milord, and the young duchesses into Clarissa Harlowes * * * * “The mail coach stands before the Hotel de 1’ Aigie Noir, itself a souvenir of Louts XVI. The ladies, with their large hats, tight waists and flat skirts, recall a Rey- nolds portrait. The mat) coach, in the old style, is painted a heavenly blue, relieved y bi: The servant, in red livery, sounds the horn. “They bring a little ladder. The young snobs grouped around look with malicious Interest at it, for it will let them know the colors and the contours of those stockings, Vain hope. The long skirts hide che stock- ings. “The costume of M. de M——., the gentle- man-conductor (another English word im- ported into French), leaves nothing to de- sire. He has a white redingote, pink vest with gilded buttons, a cravat of Scotch laid, and a plug hat. He speak: horses or the scenery when the little lad- der is brought out. Yachting, trom the nature of its expense, and lawn tennis, trom the necessity of a garden, are also two aristocratic female sports, which will not have much influence on the customs of the great mass of the people. It is in the latter that the French girl shows her real capacity. Lawn ten- nis in virtue of the secluded nature of its practice, in high-walled suburban gardens and villa parks, is the peculiar acquisition of unmarried French girls in these new times. For those who do not dream of mounting on a bicyclette it is an opening wedge for freedom in the relations of the Sexes. From such impressions as a foreign- et perceives the whole affair appears to be @ humbug. It seems that French girls ne- Fencing. tually dislike their tennis and only welcome it as an occasion to put on a fetching cos- tume (until they marry they are not given many gowns), and for the opportunity they find to flirt with those young men who are permitted to play with them. Their oppor- tunities are so small and few that flying round a tennis court with mamma on a chair beneath a tree is next best to a ball (a French unmarried girl gets scarcely two or three in a whole season). The true test is to see the girls alone at their lawn tennis. They sit all cool and fresh. They do not run and sweat. They chat, and if you knew the things they chat about! These young French giris are so secluded, so well guarded (unlike those bold Americaines) that their own mothers see no harm in gos- siping with then about the bottom myster- jes of a wicked caplt As to the way in which the Paris world large regards lawn tennis, the following ounsels” are from an ultra-aristocratic humorous weekly: “Great intelligence is not necessary, even wit is not indispensable. But one must have, above all things, well- shaped extremities. Your movements must be supple and graceful. Above all, again, il faut soigner sa lingerie. If you are very, very well made do not wear a corset.” As to boating, the whole life of the river Seine is tinted with the presence of the athletic cocotte, the first of all French- women to learn the value of a strong, fresh, glowing body. Here is the rock on which most outdoor sports for girls in France are lable to split—the demi monde. The demi monde is rich, progressive and of great intelligence. By reason of this fact the Trouville bathing ts half surrepti- tious and boating on the Seine (for any but the English and Americans) is almost not Tespectable. It has taken a rich American in Paris to show what faithful revivals of the Borgia feasts may find their place upon a crack steam yacht; and nine times out of ten at Trouville, when you see a lovely | The Mail Coach at the Aigle-No' racer flying the French colors, you may guess she has a freight as frail as any east- ern slave ship ever bore. Only these nymphs are witty. When one pretends to climb a mast and make an exhibition for the philo- sophic seamen she will cry: “Now watch me, I'm an English girl, oh, how I love the sea!” As for the rest women sel- dom learn the right name for a single block or rope. Their interest is in what new things they get to eat on With fencing it is different. Its exercise is private, done in good faith, out of old French habit. Skating each year becomes @ more and more Parisian amusement; not on the winter ice alone, which seldom lasts more than a week, but on real ice, though srtificially created, in such rinks as the Pole Nord and the new Ice Palace. The Palais de Glace, indeed, has become a very nest of fashion. At the last Mi-Careme its fancy*dress assembiy, all on skates, had mcre of the pink of wealth and taste than the great Opera ball. It is true that of a morning the Palais de Glace is patronized by young girls of good family, accompanied by their parents; but even then they have to fight against the richer demi-monde, who are much more of az attraction. The young irl bites her lip with irritation when Mile. milienne d’Alencon, Mile. Otero, and Mile. Liane de Pougy come by gliding. So here again the demi-monde, well-dressed, well- lacious, work to monopo- ttention and outshine the married lady and the jeune personne. So young girls find no more pleasure in their Skating than at a public subscription ball, accompanied by unique drawbacks. If it were not for the bicycle one might be tempted to pronounce that the practical emancipation of the French girl from the hideous narrowness of her first twenty years is rather likely to come through the Politics of the woman's rights developers (dim hope) than through any spontaneous growth of out-door sports. But with the bicycle a whole new vista opens. A new class has been tapped by the ma- chine, the lower middle class, which here- tofore had no real chance at sport. Living always, however comfortably, in cramped apartment houses the bicycle makes a strong appeal to mothers and daughters, as weil as to sons and fathers. The cheapness of the bicycle and the temptations it offers vo these Parisians who adore the country all the more because they do not often see it, combined with the glamor of an English custom, incline these honest people strongly to the wheel. All the world of employes has welcomed the bicycle. With it they get in actual touch with country life, the roads, the vil- lages, the fields. it is pleasanter than the regulatioa Sunday railway trip out to some small town, with its aimless walk around provincial streets out to a weary wood, to sit there blankly, feeling out of place and cramped by city shoes and garments, wish- img vainly for a carriage. To all this world of commercial employes and government clerks are added large contingents yearly from the upper middie ciasses. Parisians like these, sure of themselves, quite inde- pendent because they have but small pre- tense of fashion to keep up and already awakened by twenty years of radicalism in the public schools, can make bicycle rid- ing, if they keep on pedaling, absolutely emer for their wives and daughters. hen this is done the whole Parisian world may fall in line upon the future of the daughter. Lite by little the mischiey- ous influence of Irench mothers on their girls may change for something more in Keeping with the spirit of the times. The mothers of the present day are of the old school—the old school, lacking its religion. The daughters can scarcely be otherwise than what they are, trained up as they have been. Still, rumors of the different lite of English and American girls and even German girls come to them, and they won- der, with derision or regret, as may be. If mothers could always gvarantee their daughters husbands before their youth had been matured into a rancid spinsterhood, the cooping up which the French girl now undergoes might seem less painful to a foreigner. Such 1s notoriously not the case, however. Young men in Paris grow more and more fastidious as to the dot, and even old men give themselves the airs of valu- able partis when they have no fortune worthy of a true temptation. The bicycle is new. With it, for once, the respectable world has been as quick as the great fashionables on the one hand and the encroaching demi-monde upon the other. The demi-monde has also taken to the wheel. The hope for the respectable young ‘irl is that in this case she is up to date. it is admitted that a change of some kind should come somewhere, sometime. Per- haps the change will come with wheeling. STERLING HBEILIG. — tee The Pathologic School. From Peck. Mra. Gramercy—“Do you exercise any su- Nothing need be added to make clear the patent fact that the mail coach's highest function in the Paris great world is as a stage to show off ladies’ costumes; and that Frenchmen are not interested in the | pervision over your daughter's reading?” | Mrs. Park—‘“Certainly, my dear. It is quite necessary at the present day. I never | let ner read a book written by a woman un- til I've looked it over carefully.” HOUSEHOLD HINTS Advice to Girls Who Have BadCom- plexions. BENEFITS OF A CHANGE OF I |Kiss the Baby, But Not in the Mouth. TO MAKE GOOD JELLY ‘Written Exclusively for The Rvening Stas, ‘Those who do not like to use ice aa fally as some do like “cola” it without the ice. If you have no all, put the amount of tea pitcher in the morning ana only enough water to cover it: for three or more hours and that all the flavor is extracted leaves, When you wish to serve, water, a8 cold as can be obtained, upon the tea, and you will have a delightful giass of tea, with none of the bitterness tea about it and sufficiently cold, 7 . Eat all the strawberries you are most excellent medicine, to say of their nutritive qualities. Do with less meat and spend the money for strawberries while they last. They are @ splendid com- plexion purifier when eaten in quanti and some celebrated beauties have what they believed to be beneficial crushed strawberries. They ecid wash for the face and {rice for the teeth. * se A few drops of benzoin ter will make it look like will smell like the fir or cool & sunburned face an: tors call “tone” to the skin. . A Rice woman doctor said j “Oh, these giris! They are always i Hi f i a. i ‘ eRe F Lage ¢ le fi | 8 & : be you can impress i i e k i il i E Serves to be given the Soup. She upsets her Wonders that her Soon, wuieh i hich is mometer of her stomach, it does. To get a clear skin properly, exercise well and in Sood order. A clear white beriectly healthy, but a There ts not a bit of senbe in rece mg a wash to clear the for th ble lies below. Visit your doctor ane his instructions to the letter, for he knows } Your weak points. Live , take pien- ty of exercise, sleep in a room and dress comfortably. word for it, eng — be a different Deing insine te mon unless your ancestors bieme for inherited ilis.” gates - se 2 Lady Wilde ob; to much’ black. “She ‘saya: seem to have a fatal predeliction toward biack, and, having reached the middle term, the mezzo-camino of life, generally retire into the black alpaca for the remainder of their days. They ought to remember that variety of dress and the preference fee ie ul i i The sensible woman for a few weeks at least needs the relaxation and to get rid of her for a appreciate her worth. and new brushes and stimulates the ami have run down in the humdrum housewifely duties, which are exacting. Then, too, many a has gone away from her home narrow life she was living and circumscribed has come has a home to come much better than some We get our ideas of val ‘son, and often cheapen do not know how rare a thing Of course everybody wants baby. It is human nature, want to touch with our Lips things in life; but the mother w! will see that her bairn is not mouth. It is one of the easiest ways convey disease, and fatalities often happen from it. If the kisser has consumption, catarrh, sore throat or fever it is an easy matter to convey it in a kiss. Then tt is an unpleasant fact that few grown have sweet breath. It is simply torture to impose on a little helpless child the awfully tainted breath that some carry around with them. I have seen the little things actually gag when finally from the clutches of such il tel é i is 4 £ is i &) Ha} il i i é s uF e hee if | ts rt | i 8 3f pled knees, but in the name of humanity do net kiss it on the mouth. ee © © An artist who ought to know says thet blue in a ceiling gives the effect of and in @ recess of a room it gives the effect of distance, so if you want your apartment to look spacious do them up in light blue. Dark blue kills light. Yellow is said to lower the light and counteract the recess. Red leaves @ room just where it finds it, neither adding to nor taking from its appa- rent size. - 2 © «© If the baby is not strong and does not digest well the little food that it takes, try bathing it in cod liver oil. The stuff smelis horribly, but it will generally strengthen = weak person after a few applications. Rub the child's body all over with it, just as you would grease it for cold, but use more of the oil and rub it in well, then wrap it in clean linen. This treatment has proven quite efficacious for adults who could not take the oil inwardly. . 2 ss «6 If you have gone without food till you are pongo hungry.feel that your stom- ach would rebel against anything strong, have a cup of weak bouillon made and drink it quite hot; if you have none in stock, and no ‘soup, have a cup of hot milk in which a small lump of butter has been melted, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Drink it as hot as possible; don’t put crackers or any- thing else in it; in five minutes’ time you Will feel like a different person and able to eat barbacued ox. * es © @ A woman who has made lots of jelly, says that in making quince and pear jelly you must be careful to abstract all the seeds and cores of both fruits before cooking. a8 there is a mucilage in thein that will make = jelly milky looking, and impair the vor, To keep nutmegs from splitting before half used up begin grating at the stem end. Small nutmegs are more finely fla- vored than the larger ones. c “7. 8 8 Mosquitoes detest the odor of penny- royal—and so do fleas. Rub it on your dog and cat and fleas will flee. Rub it on your- self and the mosquitoes will give you a wide berth—and so will everybody else | who is not likewise perfumed. Bunches of the herb hung ebout a room are not so bad and will answer almost the same purpose. “ee we © An excellent wash for the summer maiden’s face is buttermilk that has bad tansy steeped in it. It is good to efface freckles and soothing for sunburn. ——2——— “Her Eyes Fell.” From Life.