Evening Star Newspaper, December 16, 1893, Page 18

18 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, DECEMBER i5, 1893-TWENTY-FOUR PAGES. FOR A FANCY BALL. for Small Bays CAN BE MADE WITHOUT MUCH TROUBLE Some That Are Simple and‘Others More Elaborate WILL SURELY MAKE A HIT ? Fu F HH H i Ry HF if E Li i i f I g ; E 5 i é go as a funny character rather than a Pretty one, and when so dressed they are much more likely to act out the part. For instance, one would never forgive a George Washington—this is always a popular cos- tume—for stuffing cake or some such simi- lar undignified proceeding, but one really could not expect much else from the darky @ude who forms the subject of the first 1l- Justration. In trousers of the checker-board descrip- tion, bright red necktie, huge chrysanthe- mum, gaiters and cane, he cuts a very funny figure as with the latest strut he en- ters the room, his miniature hat—which can be made from the cardboard roll which sash ribbon is wound around—perched on the side of his head. His face is blacked with burnt cork and his mouth is exaggerated by red paint. A Little Page. For the mother who wishes her boy to be handsomely dressed the little page costume shown in the second picture will be appro- priate. The colors in this costume are pale blue and golden brown. Of course elaborate materials will make this more effective, and With the blue made from silk, the brown from velvet, a beautiful costume is insured. ‘The flaring collar and the entire cape are ined with brown and the square yoke and skull cap are also of this color. The tights and remainder of the costume are of blue and @ small sword completes the page's guise, The Brownte. ‘The brownie dress is more easily gotten up. In double-breasted long-tailed coat of brown, tights, cap and pointed shoes to match, he aptly represents one of the mis- chievous sprites. A dark, dusty brown should be chosen for this and almost any material of light weight will answer. The Monk. The monk's costume ts effective and has that greatest of all recommendations at Present—it costs next to nothing. It consists ef a pointed hood cut to fall over the shoulders and turned under and gathered up around the neck by a shirring string. is cut im one piece, with full, sleeves, next appears. He looks much the same as ever, though a trifle small per- S party has its so the children will never be gtown folks. We —— have a at Party, too, and he gener- ally proves the life of wathering. Peppermint Stick. Sir Peppermint Stick—the next on the Mst—is quite an original character. With tight-fitting clothes of white cambric, and stovepipe hat of the same color, he is wrapped from head to foot in strips of pink eamoric, which are made to run in the same direction as the stripes on a stick of the children’s favorite candy. A big white ruff encircles his neck, and if he—or rather his mother—wishes he may carry a Christ- mas peppermint candy cane. His tiny handkerchief may be scented with oil of it to give @ more real idea of represents. peppermin' what he The ghost always enjoys himself very much at parties. It especialiy delights his boyish heart to terrify some small girl of four or five by wrapping his clanking chain about her. The ghost’s mother con- tulates herself on being let off so easy, for all that is necessary for her to do is to drape him in a sheet, provide him with @ white mask and an old chain and send him off one of the happiest at the party in his grotesque costume, on which mother @id not have to sew a stitch. The Devil. His Satanic Majesty next wishes an in- troduction, and stands before you in the eighth cut, fully conscious that he is more than resplendent in ll the glory of a pitch- fork ano long tail. About that tall the writer is not quite easy in her mind. When the picture was drawn it appeared to look all right, but some one has since said that if Mephistophiles walked across the stage with a tail curled like a pig, he would cer- tainly bring down the house; however that may be, any one more familiar with his appearance is at liberty to change it. Of course his entire costume is red, and is made tight, so that he will look thin. The wearer of this costume is insured an especially good time, as he will receive universal attention, The Evening Star. Last, but certainly not least, comes Lit- tle Prince Even! Btar, gaily attired in back numbers of paper. A sack-shape garment, flaring out at the lower edge, and with large crinkly sleeves, is cut from white muslin, over which is pasted and cut to fit copies of The Evening Star. A cap, made as in the illustration, is done in the game way, and in it is placed a black feather. large printed headings, with the name of the paper on them, are cut off and pasted across the front of the tunic, while another ornaments the cap. A wide pleated ruff encircles the neck and stands out beyond the shoulders. White tights and black velvet shoes complete this last character. There are many other ways of making costumes for fancy balls, which are too well known to describe; follies, clowns and countless animal costumes are to be seen by the dozen, and their merit is proved by their popularity, but it ts hoped that these few costumes shown here | Will assist some mother to add to her small , folks’ is caught around the @ piece of fine cord whole is made trom coarse sack- artificial this. wig and beard of snow ART OF ADVERTISING. First Principles in the Science of Se- ouring and Increasing Business. NEWSPAPER AND ADVERTISER Circulation of the Former of Pri- mary Value to the Latter. DEVELOPMENT OF ENTERPRISE By Joba Irving Romer. delivered before the University of °° © It ts @ trite saying that without its advertising patronage the newspaper of today would be impossible. How much of an impossfbility few of us, perhaps, realize. At least two-thirds of the income of the average newspaper is derived from adver- tising, and in many cases the proportion is much larger. It is true that there is not | It much sympathy existing between the “up- stairs” and down-stairs” factions, as the editorial and business departments are re- spectively known. The members of th editorial staff are inclined to take the view that to them alone belongs the credit for the success of the paper, while the adver- tising manager smiles pityingly as he re- flects that were it not for his vigilance the reporters might in vain present their bills at the cashier's window. In reality, these two departments are supplemental to each other, and the smooth working together of wach is essential to the greatest degree of success, The value of a newspaper to an advertiser is primarily and principally its circulation. No matter how brilliant its editorials or how excellent its news service, if a journal has not: succeeded in establishing ite cir- culation on a firm basis, the advertiser has no use for it. He is paying for the privi- lege of addressing the audience that the editorial staf! has gathered together. Here lies the great difficulty in establishing a new paper. Until it has been in existence long enough to have attained a certain pres- tige, the advertiser fights shy of it. it hi been said that the advertising patronage is the last to come to a paper, and the last to leave it. The advertiser knows that a good paper must be published for a long tme before it can be said to have acquired a steady clientage. When that event comes to pass he will want to use it, but not till then. Many newspapers starting out with bright prospects prove failures. The dis- tinguished publisher of the Chicago Herald, and president of the American Newspaper Publishers’ Association, James W. Scott, who has himself worked up from the ranks, recently made the statement that the ma- jority of newspapers in the couatry are to- day being conducted at a financial loss. The trouble is that there are too many newspapers for the population. In the United States today there are over 20,000 newspapers of different kinds being regu- larly issued. Great Britain has only 2 We Americans are a great nation of taik- ers, and like to air our opinions publicly. Some of us are even willing to pay for the privilege, as the great number of unprofit- newspapers bear witness. Many inexperienced men,in contemplating the launching of a new paper, count confi- dently upon the receipt of a large sum from advertising. But when the advertiser is approached he is found to be a cool, careful man of business, who utterly falis to en- thuse over oriluant prospects, and who has at his command an infinite number of ex- cuses for not compiying with the request of the embryo publisher. Statistics show that about one-tenth of the total number of papers in the country expire every year. I wel. remember the effect made upon me by the publisher of a certain daily supposed lo be pretty successful when he stated that if he could oniy get his capital out of the newspaper business he would seek some other heid of ployment. Yet it cannot be denied that some new papers do turn out to be successful, and when they once commence to make money they make it fast. Yet the proportion of New York Her- alds, Philadelphia Ledgers, Washington Stars, Boston Globes, brooklyn Eagles and San Francisco Examiners is exceedingly a * * * Advertising agents have become experts in judging newspapers. Circulation is their hobby and skepticism a part of their stock in trade. They judge of the size of an editiwn by certain earmarks which would never occur to the inexperienced. For instance, that handsome and expensive cover you have been so proud of will indi- cate to him right at the start that the edi- tion is smail. He knows that no paper printing a great many copies could afford to put so much money into its cover. A late development of enterprise as ap- plied to advertising by general agents is telegraphic advertising. Several agencies have established special departments for the conduct of this sort of business. ‘ine idea is to have a little advertisement ap- pear among news matter just as thoug! it were a regular press dispatch. Of cours @ previous arrangement must be made with the papers to secure the insertion of such items, and high prices are charged. Yet many advertisers seem to value specially this little deception on the reading public, and a considerable business of this kind has been done. Many of the dispatches that ha peared in leading papers an- nouncing awards at the world’s fair have been of this character, and the publishers have been paid for the announcement at so much per line. The third class of advertising men, the so- licitors or publishers’ agents, are continual- ly doing missionary work. They have a double duty: they must educate business men up to the value of advertising in gen- eral, and of their own papers in particular. Every paper has a number of canvassers going about in the local district, while the principal dailies through the country all have special representatives in New Yor! the center of the advertising busines: Some of these men earn incomes far larg than those paid any salaried editor. It must not be supposed that their work, of drumming up business, does not require ability, or that the chief qualifications are cheek and persistency. To succeed as a solicitor it Is not necessary merely to have @ certain amount of confidence in one’s self, but one must possess a large amount of tact and business ability. Th who succeed best at coaxing the elusive from the man of business are shrewd judges of human nature and are masters of the art of ingratiating themselves into the good graces of prospective customers. Business men ai sometimes slow to realize the advantag of a judicious use of printers’ ink, and the solicitor performs a useful office in awak- ing them to the facts. A distinguished editor, in addressing a college audience recently, spoke of journal ism as “a comparatively new profession. As advertising is an outgrowth of this new profession,” it is not a matter to be wondered at that it is still in a crude con- dition. Some of thi lvertisements put out by leading houses are ungrammatical, and wh poetry is attempted (and the adver- tising beginner has a fondness for poetry) it is usually extremely bad. A comparatively new field of endeayor for beers sag 8 men, and one which they are very far from considering beneath their dignity, is the writing of advertisements, The field for this sort of work has extended enormously of late, encouraged, no doubt, by the numerous “journals for advertisers,” which treat of the preparation of copy and advocate the most painstaking care in the arrangement of advertisements. Frequently the question is raised whether there is a chance for new men in this fleid. To such the only answer is, what can you do? If you can do only what has been done you are not wanted. But if you have original- ity, combined with business acumen, the chances are that there is some man looking for you. How shall you know whether you possess these qualities? * * * For a science whose real development is of such comparatively recent origin, ad- vertising has a surprising perspective. If we place the broadest construction upon the term, we may look in vain among ancient historical records for the first advertise- ment. When it became necessary for a tribe or nation to convey a certain piece of information to all its members, the natural means was the posting in a prominent place of an inscription. Thus the prototype of our modern sign board came into existence with the very dawn of civilization. It is known that in the first days of the children of Israel the utterances of kings and proph- ets were conveyed to the people through the medium of primitive signs. But the real significance of the word “advertisement” has come to be the use of publicity for bus!- ness purposes—for the purpose of inducing trade. Adopting this meaning, the earliest advertisements were symbols hung outside the doors of shops. In Rome a saw s0 placed indicated the carpenter, a bushel measure the baker, and a branch of ivy (eacred to Bacchus) marked the tavern. Frcm this latter form of advertisement we have our bs wine needs no bush.” The use of written characters in vertising for trade dates back at least ‘enty centuries. The excavations at Pom- peli have brought to light a sign at a street corner, which, being trai ted, reads: ;Visit the inn of Lianus, turn to the right.” The custom of advertising for lost articles also obtained then. Another inscription unearthed in the buried city reads: “A wine is lost from the inn. If any one bring it back there shall be given to him 65 ses- terces; if any one bring the thief who took it, double th wine shop ously in the early history of advertising, we may rerhark in passing, is more of a Feflection upon the people of those times than it is a discretit to the art of publicity. In fact, in no form of literature are the vices and virtues and customs of differ- ent eras more vividly portrayed than in ad- vertisements. Photograph the shops of a nation and you have a correct idea of its methods of living. What does this so well POLITICS IN KANSAS.|, An Attempt to Clearly Mark the . Party Lines. PROHIBITION AND WOMAN SUFFRAGE. Two Issues That Split the Republi- can Vote. DEMOCRATS REORGANIZING. apenas. Special Dispatch to The Evening Star. TOPEKA, Kan., Dec. 16.—The politics of Kansas are in a transitory state. The as an advertisement? It is the unedited voice of the people. As to the first newspaper advertisement, there is a difference of opinion. Some credit it to the ancient paper, the Mercurius Po- liticus, while others claim that a certain eld journal, supposed to have been printed in 1591, and on file in the British museum, —— the Spr One of these pioneer advertisemen: curious enough to quote. reads thus: : “That excellent and by all physicians ap- “proved Chinese drink called by the Chinese ‘Toha, by other nations Tay, alias Te, is ‘sold at the Sultane’s Head Coffee House “in Sweeting’s Rents, by the Royal Ex- “change, London.” Another early form of advertising was the bell man or town crier, which still exists in some old New England towns. The prob- lem of making up a fair rate schedule is one of the most difficult that confronts the ublisher of a new paper. He must estab- lish a rate which will insure him a fair in- come and yet not be regarded by the ad- vertiser as extortionate. As I have already intimated, circulation is the only true basis for advertising. Yet character of cir- culation is ig 2 taken more or less into account. if a cent per line per thousand circulation for dailies, and @ cent per line per thousand circula- tion for weeklies, is often spoken of as a fair price. But many contracts are placed on a@ lower basis. Agate type forms the usual basis of measurement for advertising space. There are fourteen agate lines to the inch. Some papers, inciuding the month- ly magazines, use nonpareil type as the standard. Nonpareil is the next largest Ss to agate, measuring twelve lines to the inch. Another point is, how a publisher can win and hold advertisers. ‘The way to do is to win and hold your readers. Advertising fol- lows circulation. Occasionally a publisher that has not yet acquired circulation will be able, by dint of much persistency, to force advertising, but it is at best a feeble growth, and is likely to fall away suddenly and leave the publisher high and dry. The advertiser is shrewd, and although he may be fooled at first, he will in the end find out the facts about an undeserving paper. The best way is for a publisher to base his ad- vertising rates on his actual circulation,and then make a plain, honest statement of the number he prints. It important for him to see that his paper is properly rated in the leading newspaper directories, for these books of reference are much used by adver- ts .. The home advertisers should be cul- tivated by a publisher, rather than the for- eign or general advertisers. Although the character of a medium has considerable weight with advertisers, it must not be supposed that the journal hav- ing a constituency of the highest social class is always able to command the high- est price. This whole matter of advertising rates is today in a very confused condition, and the number of papers that actually con- duct their business on the one-price system may almost be counted on the fingers of your two hands. If publishers would only fix upon a fair price for their space and then stick to it (as is done in ail first-class stores nowadays) the advertising business would be greatly simplified. But the trouble is that the publisher is constantly tempted to allow discounts rather than lose an im- portant order. He figures that it will not cost any more to publish a certain advertise- ment than it will to insert reading matter— in fact, not so much. He calculates, there- fore, that wnatevez he gets for the ad will be so much clear gain. There is something peculiar about newspaper space, a respect in which it differs materially from drugs, dry goods or buliding lots. Space in a news- aper that has once gone to press is value- less. Absolutely nothing can be realized for it. It must be sold today or not at all. It cannot be laid a’ on a shelf until a cus- tomer is found at a fair price. While these | conditions continue to exist, and while the ability of an advertising manager is gauged by his success in breaking rates, the pres- ent sliding system of rates will probably prevail. Luckily, we have not yet cot to con- sider business degrading in thi ountry. The leisure class, as it exists abroad, which would be ashamed to acknowledge any reg- ular employment, has not succeeded in gain- ing a foothold here. Even our society men are men of affairs. As advertising is only a branch of business, there would seem tu be no reason for the contemptuous tone which is sometimes taken toward advertis- ing by persons who are not themselves above earning their living by an honorable and legitimate means. Of course, methods | are sometimes employed that cannot be | indorsed any more than those of the charla- | tans that creep into the medical profession, or the sensation mongers that occasionally find their way into the pulpit. The deface- ment of natural scenery that at one time threatened to bring advertising into disre- | pute has been generally abandoned. Every man in business is more or less of an ad- vertiser. The sign outside of his door, the | impression on his letter head, the “drum- | mers” on the roa: e all advertising him. Why should he with disdain on the highest type of all—newspaper advertising? I will not attempt to question here the gooa judgment of the doctors and lawyers, whose code of ethics prohibits advertising, which Position results in leaving for the most part to quacks and impostors this impor- tant means of hing the public. Mr. Edward Bellamy, in ‘Looking Back- ward,” retiects upon advertising as an eco- nomic waste. Perhaps when his ideal state of society shall have come into existence this criticism will be deserved, but at pres- ent the advertisement sustains import- ant economic relation as any other link In the social chain. Consider the case of the grocer who has on hand a larger quantity of perishable goods than he can dispose of in the ordinary way. He invokes the ald of the advertisement, and sells them be- fore they have had a chance to spoil; or the case of the property owner, who wishes to dispose of his suburban home. The or- dinary method of selling it would be to place it in the hands of a real estate agent, who would charge a commission of 2 1-2 per cent, which, on a $10,000 house, would amount to $250. But supposing, instead, it is advertised in the public press. The first, the second or the third advertisement may not seli it, but supposing that the twentieth announcement orings him a customer, at | an average cost of $1 per advertisement, he has paid out only $20, or saved a clear $230 by the employment of printers’ ink instead of a middleman. In the present condition of society the economic uses of advertising appear to be too clear to admit of question. Advertising is at best an uncertain sci- ence. The man who pretends to know all about it is looked upon with suspicion, like the quack doctor who guarantees a cure. Even the advertiser of long experience is obliged to admit that, in deviating from beaten paths, he is experimenting, and cannot hope to predict with any certainty the result. These conditions are all in fa- vor of young blood and new ideas. Dr. Johnson, years ago, when there was but a handful of advertisements in the papers, thought that the acme of advertising e1 terprise had been Peached. The advertisements of fifty years hence will probably show a wonderful improve- ment on those of today. The coming gener- ation will bring to tl task new ideas, greater enterprise and a broader concep- tion of the possibilit! of advertising. And it is certainly reasonable to suppose that the young men who come into the fields with a clear idea of the duties they are about to undertake, and with a training specially designed to fit them for their life- work (such as the university now affords), will be the leaders of the new school. ————_+ e+ ______ A Christmas Entertainment. The Sunday School Gospel Temperance Society of Fourth Street M. EB. Church held their annual Christmas concert Tues- day night, the lecture room being crowded with the children and their parents, the occa- sion being the opening of temperance bells. An interesting program was carried out. ‘Those who took part were Misses Bertha Mahoney, May McLean and Ella Dement, Mr. J. H. Altemus, Misses Mabel White, Hattie Berkeley, Clara Belt, Martha Garth- Pearl Halley and Stella Forte, ana rs Tom Hendricks, Willie Appleby and Raymond Otterback. the pledge, and the collection from. the temperance bells amounted to a good sum. Neglect of the hair often destroys its vitality and Santa Claus and | his wife appeared and distributed presents | and oranges. Thirteen young people signed | recent disastrous defeat of the populists in the county elections has caused a stam- pede among the leaders, and they are un- able to agree as to the course to be pur- sted in the future. Many of them advise the abandonment of the existing organiza- tion for the purpose of forming a new party with a one-plank platform—the free and un- limited coinage of silver at the ratio of 16 to 1. They believe that such a party would take into its membership all popu- lists and the wings of the republican and democratic parties which favor free coin- age. If that combination were possible the Proposed new party would indeed be formid- able in Kansas, but a great many populists oppose the scheme, believing they can yet rally on the old people's party platform and score another victory. On local state issues, too, the populists are divided into innumerable factions, each charging their reverses to the other. With these conditions existing it does not seem possible that the populists will be able to make a very strong campaign next year. But if harmony and unison are lacking in the people’s party they are also wanting in the republican and democratic parties. With prohibition and woman suffrage as live issues there is little prospect of the republicans getting together. The anti-pro- hibition republicans in 1890 bolted the ticket to the number of 21,000 and voted for Chas. Robinson, the democratic nominee for gov- ernor, because the republican pi form de- clared in favor of prohibition. They will do this next year in still greater numbers should prohibition again be made a test of republicanism, as now seems certain. Un the other hand, should the convention adopt the iowa plan and fali to adopt a declaration in favor of prohibition, the radi- cal wing of the party will bolt and go over to the straight prohibitionists, as they have already threatened to do, and that to 40,000 strong. Woman suffrage may be kept out of the platform, but if it is incorporated, it will form new complications. It would seem that the republican party of Kansas is be- tween two fires and is lable to be scorched, no matter which way it turns, On state issues the democratic party is a unit. its members are unanimous in their opposition to both woman suffrage and pro- hibition. On party policy or expediency they are divided. Many of them favor any combination with any other party which will promise defeat to the republicans, while another wing, composed of those who stand by President Cleveland and his administra- tion, Insist that the party should act inde- pendently and make a straightforward fight regardless of the chances of success. This wing is steadily gaining in strength, and there is little doubt that by the time the campaign opens, it will embrace all the democrats in the state. The democratic organization is badly demoralized. The chairman of the state committee, W. C. Jones, abandoned the recent local campaign in Kansas and spent all his time as an office broker in Washington. For this, and the further reason that the democrats fused with the populists in 18vz, it has virtually lost its identity and must be completely re- organized again, which work 1s now in the hands of a number of leaders, who intend to oust Jones and the old committee and put the party management tn other hands. With very little work the party can be ral- ed and put in good shape for the coming campaign. Everything considered, the dem- ocrats are in much better shape to make pronounced gains than either republicans or populists are to hold their own. An alysis of the vote of recent years demonstrates this fact. The total vote poll- ed at last month's election was 85,000 less than the vote of 1802. Estimating that the exodus from Western Kansas caused by crop failure and the opening of the Chero- kee Strip took 25,000 votes out of the state, there remains 60,000 voters who took no interest In the campaign and did not go to the polls. There is good reason for believing that two-thirds or three-fourths of these 60,000 voters were democrats. They felt that there was little at stake for them this year. In many counties they had no tickets and in others they realized that they were hopelessly in the minority, and made no effort to get the voters out. In many in- stances democrats, appreciating the fact that their own ticket could not win, voted with either the republicans or populists. When the campaign is opened next year, all of the stay-at-home democrats, the fu- sionists and straight-outs will be in line in ene compact organization ready to enlist re- cruits from the anti-prohibition and anti- woman suffrage republicans, as weil as from disorganized populist forces, While it does not seem possible that a straight democratic ticket can win in Kan- Sas next year, still there are good politicians who believe t! such a result is more than possible the outcome of the unsettled chaotic condition which now exists. David Overmyer, a well-known lawyer of Topeka, is already conceded the democratic nomina- tion for governor, and his friends say he can be elected and Kansas redeemed if the national committee will help kim. In 1888, 102,000 democratic votes were polled in Kansas. In 1890 Charles Robinson, the democratic candidate for governor, received 80,000 votes, or about 25,000 less than the populist candidate, and 30,000 less than the republican candidate. It would require but a slight change to swell Robinson's vote into a plurality. Many democrats believe that party can win in Kansas next year, while republicans, of course, laugh at the idea. * —_——_— A MINIATURE REPUBLIC. Its Authorities Were Bothered About a Too Big Piece of Artillery. From the New York Tribune. The rulers of the miniature repubiic of An- dorra decided recently that the country should possess a cannon. Krupp, therefore, was ordered to manufacture one of the most modern type. The great gun arrived at its mountain destination a short time ago, and was placed on the highest point in the “country,” so that the citizens could see that the valley was well protected. A day was appointed to try the cannon, which was able to send a ball 18 kilometers. Just as the two artilierymen of Andorra were ready so fire it occurred to one of the prudent cit- izens that the shot might cause some trou- ble. The territory of the republic of Andor- ra does not extend over more than 6 kilo- meters. To direct the shot, therefore, to- ward the surrounding mountains would be the same as firing at France or Italy, as the ball would necessarily fall on the territory of one of these countries. A war might re- sult. It was then decided to shoot the ball in the air, but some one suggested that it would endanger the lives of too many people in its descent, and possibly bore a great hole in the republic of Andorra. Good council prevailed and the two artillerymen were commanded to unload the gun. The shot has not yet been fired and the good republi- cans are uncertain what to do with the ex- pensive gun, ———_+oo___. Pulse Coolers, From the Philadelphia Record. A lady residing in the older part of the city, fond of all the comforts afforded by the latest discoveries in the arts and sci- ences, holds a theory regarding healthful temperature of the body which she has car- ried out in a practical manner. During the summer she wears what she calls “pulse coclers,” her theory being that the entire blood circulation may be raised or dimin- ished in temperature by proper appliances at the wrists. The “pulse coolers” are com- posed of spheroids of rcse quartz, about an inch in diameter, linked together with fili- greed silver and forming a handsome brace- let. The spheroids were cut by a local lapidary, and their quality of absorbing cold in preference to heat is remarkable. For winter, the pulse-warming bracelets consist of a strip of asbestos, a noted non- conductor, an inch wide, enveloped in gold- embossed velvet, buckled with a loop of | diamonds. The lady claims that when wear- \ing these she is proof against any suffering natural hue and canses it to fall ont. Before It ia wo late apply Hall’s Hair Renewer, a sure remedy. caused by extreme variations of the weather. ENGLAND WAS TO HELP. Story From Honolulu of British Aid to President Cleveland. A story comes from Honolulu by the way of Victoria, B. C., that British Minister Resident Wodehouse has lately stated to different persons in Honolulu that there was an understanding between President Cleveland and the British government that the monarchy should be restored. In private circles in Hawaii, on the an- nexationist side, the opinion has been free- ly expressed that the presence of the Brit- ish cruiser Champion was owing to the fear of the English foreign office that President Cleveland would not be able to carry out his policy. This theory reached the executive and an advisory council's special session was held, in which Mr. Brown introduced the follow- ing resolution, which was unanimously — mended by the councils to the execu- Resolved, That the executive council in- quire of the American minister whether his instructions were covered by and in harmony with the letter of Secretary Gres- ham to lent Cleveland. If so, whether be was instructed to use force. Resolved, That should the answer be M% the affirmative, these councils recommend that Mr. Willis be immediately given his Passport and the ex-queen be made a pris- oner of state. The fear of the council seems to be that the British will offer protection to the ex- queen in case Cleveland fails to restore her. This is the chief reason the notice stated has been given foreign officiais not to land troops without permission of the provisional government. To a Them Both Home. In an interview with a member of the cabinet the facts developed that in case of further trouble the executive council will at once carry out the recommendation of the advisory council to hand Minister Wil- Ms his passport and declare the ex-queen @ prisoner of state. From semi-official sources it is further learned that should the British minister make any attempt at interference, either on behalf of the ex- queen or England, the recommendation of the advisory council will be extended at once, and Minister Wodehouse will also be his will refuse to See id will be bl: faim an pro! before he will carry out Cleveland's ‘restora tion policy. commerce will remain crippled so —- present political excitement con- Biount's report raised a furore of indigna- tion in both the annexation and royalist camps. The royalists denounce Colburn and the annexationists claim the report is one-sided and garbied. Minister Damon de- rae i ogee direct questions which unt pul were ex-parte testimon: and have been published. < The following from the Hawaiian Star, an annexationist organ, of December 2. throws a side-light on the present situation there: “Yesterday a Hawaiian lady of the city, whose name we are not permitted to give to the government, in private said that George E. Smithies had declared himself for restoration of the queen. Smithies, as many know, is one of the suspects in the finance office, whose removal by the annexation party has been urged in vain. The lady states that at a native gathert: a few nights ago this $250 per month de- nounced the provisional government roundly, and rejoived at the alleged good prospects of the queen.” A private letter received by the Oceanic Says that the officers of the (United States naval forces in Hawaiian waters have made no concealment of their sympathy with the cause of the annexationists. “If we are ordered to land,” said one of these officers, “TI hope that the forces of the Hawatlan government will drive us back to sea.” a MR. BUCK OBJECTS TO SCALES. While, o1 e Other Hand, Mra. Hough Doesn't Favor “After the Rall.” Lawyer Jerome Buck, who lives at 108 West 132d street, New York, has taken issue with his next-door neighbor because of a piano. Lester B. Hough is the neighbor. Mr. Buck says the piano is sounded morn- ing, noon and night, disturbing his peace of mind. Mrs. Hough, who plays the piano, says, on the other hand, that the Bucks are not the most quiet neighbors tmaginalile. The New York Times says: Tho lawyer says he hears nothing but humdrum scale and exercise playing at all hours of the day and night; Mrs. Hough says the Bucks have @ piano, too, and that some one In the house is making rapid progress in mastering the chorus to “After the Ball.” Mr. Buck reported his alleged grievence to the board of nealth yesterday morning, and entered a complaint against what he claimed was a uuisance. He is abca: the fifteen hundredth New Yorker to ask the board for relief from pianos and other musi- cal instruments. He was told about all that could be done would be to send a man and ask Lirs. Hough to remove the piano from the partition wall. Mr. Buck apparently thought this was some- thing in his favor. At his offices, 203 Isroad- way, Mr. Buck said to a reporter for the New York Times yesterday afternoon: “I have been very patient, but it seems as though 1 couldn’t stand that piano any longer. Its ‘tum, tum, tum’ is going at all hours, early and late. It is the last thing I hear when I leave for my office in the morn- ing, and the first thing to greet my suffer- ing ear when I get home at night. “That sort of thing wears a man out and makes him wild. It is like a Nemesis, from which there is no escape. “I wouldn't mind it if my neighbors wou'd only play music, but I heam only scal: and down, over ang over J ca ieee “We pound on tae partition wall when the }piano is particuiarly unbearab'e, but there is no escape. ‘he more wa pound the louder the plano rattles. It is dreadful. I might endure it if I could res: on Suaday, but even then I get no rest. “I believe I could get out an iniunction, restraining the piayer from using tha: plano on Sunday, and I have half a mind to do ‘t.” Mrs. Hough is a woman of refined appear- ance, and in the home over which she pre- sides is every evidence of good taste. She expressed herself as much surprised by the course Mr. Buck had taken. “Why didn’t he speak to me about my playing in a quiet way?” she said. “Since he has taken a different course, I will say that we have endured no end of annoyance from him and his femily. Mr. Buck is very noisy, and we can tell the moment he comes into the house. We are kept awake nights by the noise and uproar in his rooms. “There is a piano in there, toc, and who- ever presides over it plays ‘After the Hall’ and such pieces. Mr. Buck and his fam are forever pounding on tne partition wail and annoying us. “One day last summer I was playing on the piano when I heard som one shout- ing, apparently out in the yari. When I looked out I saw Mr. Buck !euning from a window, and when he saw me he suid, “Give us @ rest,” and then popped his head in and began pounding on the wall. “I have studied music since I was a It- tle girl. I do play a great deal. but never late at night. I don’t play scales much, and do all my technical work in the mcrnings. Evenings I play classical n:usic. “When it comes to making complaints und getting out injunctions, 1 think I might also take a hand at that game.” Mrs. Hough said « gentleman from the board of health called on ner ¢uring the afternoon and heard her story. “He di4n’t ask me to move my piano,” she triumph- antly added. ——+o- Meeting With Reverses. Use Horsford’s Acid Phosphate. ‘The tired professional and literary men wil find hotbing so soothing and refreshing ws Horsford’s Avid Paosphate. "Pate 1< the te tumoay of thoa- Sands of Liese classes uf wei ART OF GOOD APPAREL. Passion for Dress is able. ee The Fitness of Things Should Be Studied, However— The American Manner of Wearing Jewels. From the Chicago Herald. it has often been said that all women tn- terpret themselves by their tire. It i certainly the fact that a woman well dress- ed according to her ideas is more «ympe- thetic, agreeable and serene. In her very consciousness of being well gowned she inadvertently becomes self-unconscious. All ‘Women possess a love of dress and adorn- ment, but such sentiments ¢o not come solely from vanity; hers is a passion for all things beautiful. She delights in all tex- tiles; in fact, all woven stuffs. An old bit of embroidery or a jewel becomes essen- tal to her; she delights as keenly in these feminine luxuries as she does in the song of @ thrush or the perfume of a rose. Such is the inheritance from Mother Eve, who wisely chose the exquisite and velvety fig jeaf for her raiment because it had beauty of form and color. There are, unhappily, few women who seem waxiing in a delicate Sppreciation of all things lovely, but they, too, can become susceptibie to the beauties of nature and art, if they only will. There is danger, however, in over educa- tion in this direction, but with a moderate Understanding of the fitness of things the sensual will never dominate the intellect uml; and a desire to dress well is by no means the worst desire that can fill the feminine heart. Fashions in dress and ornament are very like history, constantly repeating them- selves. Today we have a style that is decidedly composite. It combines the modes of thirteenth century with those of teenth century. Today are worn every outline of their figures. hats are those that once graced the beads of Rembrandt's subjects, Napoleon's noble brow and the charming head of Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire; as well as the smallest of French bonnets that may aptly called a confection. It would seem as i, with so many periods of fashion to se- lect from, the women of America might be — Rpt however, their gowns are objectionable than their manner Wearing jewels. The wearing of a gem as an embellish- ment to a cloth frock amounts in this nine- teenth century to a mania. Such a custom Savors of our predecessor, the red man. His nature reveled in many colored glass beuds nd quantities of them. He wore his prim- itive ornaments as frequently to ad: blanket as his dusky skin. The wea: flowers is a pretty custom, but th occasions when even these most sv: earthly gems cannot be discreetly ornament. It was not an uncomm currence during the world’s fair, the penings of which are still fresh in our ories, to see a woman costumed in a tailor suit and chic bonnet wearing throat, or on her bonnet strings, a pin of great value. This style of one of the notable features of the oc: of the assembly rooms in Jackson Jewels A z & Ff] aE b4g3 $828 f Hee i : : ‘he average woman of ¢ency is to diminish the charms of @ beauti- ful woman, and to cali attention to the glaring defects of a homely one. One of the first lessons a woman learns is to the value of beauty; if be denied such heavenly gifts, she must learn the art of softening her misfortunes, and uot exagger- ating them. Fashion is a relentless ty- rant, it may be, but her laws are not ea- trely despotic, ‘There Has been of late too promiscuous a mixing of various colored gems. The blend- ing of stones with different costumes should be as harmonious as the notes of color that help to compose a lovely picture. The cora- bining of many radiating stones in one ard- cle of jewelry usually terminates in a garish result. The placing of opaque gems with those of great brilliancy ts always exquisite. Occasion should govern desire in this mat- ter of jewel wearing. Superb ornaments are only permissible at the most formal of social functions. It is a serious breach of good breeding for a hostess to bedeck her- self in costly gems. There are moments when the observer of Women's costumes wishes profoundly that the “somebody” responsible for the fash- jons of the civilized world would turn the Wheel of his imagination backward, and re- turning to a former custom, prescribe an established dress. The worst feature of woman's Gress today is that which is « transcription of the wearer's regret that she was created other than a man. Such a woman carries her sorrows not only on her garments but in her expressions, which, if the truth be told, defile even ber mannish clothes. The wearer of such @ costume is habitually seen at luncheons, afternxn teas and receptions. She is the most con- Spicuous person in the room. If she ne- giects to take her umbrella into a room her hostess is to be congra’ She grasps the hand of a friend and envel- opes it in a soiled walking glove; it is bed form to wear clean ones. The other hand is either in the depth of a pocket or resting ca her hip. If there was raison d'etre in this masculine costuming its existence mffht be pardoned, but so long as women cun- tinue to wear petticoats it has no advant- ages. Its plea is its comparative cheapness and comfort; such excuses have all the con- istency of &@ soap bubble. In such raiment @ woman completely effaces herself. There are in Chicago many women who dress extremely weil, but aot so well us they did several years since. It is now fad to buy costumes and head coveriags New York. Before the distance between Chicago and Gotham was made only a mat- ter of twenty-four hours, our women were content to purchase their spring and au- tumn outiis here. They then considered each frock and its appropriateness to their individual style. Now they go to New York look at so much in a limited time that their ideas become confused; they forget even their own cast of features and form. They have lost their fascination, which consisted in their originality. It is but the repetition of the ideas and the habits of the New York women who consider themselves badly gowned if their clothes are made on this side of the water. They accept and wear costumes made in Paris and London that the women in those cities would consider passe. Shicago wi re dressed in New York inaoe SR. came Guahenant system, Why not be individually stylish? oo Army Orders, The following named officers will be re- |ieved from duty pertaining to the world’s Columbian exposition January 1, 1894, and will join their proper stations: Capt. Walter S. Schuyler, fifth cavalry; Capt. Edwar3 J. McClernand, second cavalry; Capt. Joha Pitcher, first cavalry; Capt. William A. Shunk, eighth cavalry; First Lieut. Lewis H. Strother, first infantry; Second Lieux Guy H. Preston, ninth cavairy; Second Lieut. El A. Helmick, fourth infantry. The leave of absence granted Maj. Johan C. Maliery, corps of engineers, is further extended three months on surgeon's certi- ficate of disability By direction of the President First Lieux Viiliam E. Shipp, tenth cavairy, is detailed professor of military science at the Davis School, Winston, N.C. The leave of absence granted Maj. Joha M. Hamilton, irsi cavairy, is extended one month. eee Progressive Dinner Parties. From the Boston Record. Progressive dinner parties are finding ty of admirers in Boston. “If the gli a take In ts slow, ali you have to do is to take your wine giasses, your bread a... your napkin, and go to other fields. The | worst of it is you can stay buc one courre when you strike retty an] interestiag i> the way ome Wao has Uved it puis the case,