Evening Star Newspaper, February 27, 1892, Page 11

a FOR MY LADY FAIR. Imnst not forget to call your attention to the new shade called “pink green.” Pink here has reference to the flower and not the color. It seems that by artificial means the florists have succeeded in growing pinks of @ green i . lor. he ili shi for button Bich and Novel Costumes Designed | ftits. “Holchue wad autediie’ ase. to. be by Ingenious Modistes, SILKS, VELVETS AND LACES Are the Materials employed and the Mos Attractive Combinations Are Effected—A Handsome Dinner Dress Wraps of Chiffon Gad Feathers—A Modish Coiffure. Bpestal Correspondence of The Frening Stat New York, February 2 yellow with age, phanons tall fal fig springing out f ingredients w kingdom of Allmodea ces, such as admirably the red, blue or black of her gowns, while thick guipure lies flat upon dark grounds with lovely effect. And the Watteau fold, where will its popularity end? Already the ap- plications are infinite. I have noticed som: in embroidered gauze, in lace and in tran parent textures which drop with exquisite effect from between the shoulders and in no- wise conceal the beauty of the figure. Such Watteau folds are usually framed by two long Yelvet ribbons, one on each side. In one cade I saw a sup@rb reception dress of sky biue veloutine which had a Watteau fold of lace reaching quite to the end of the train. Theater toilets, too, it seems to me, were never 50 beautiful as they are this season. In fact, one sees toilets in the theater boxes nowadays which would not look amiss in an opera box. In my initial cut I set before you a charming cloak for use at theater or at an evening recep- tion. It ismade up of peacock green piush, over @ completely adjusted inner garment, with an embroidered piastron front and back. The pelerme has two large folds at the back 4nd is gathered on the yoke. The bottom of the pelerine and also of the cloak is trimmed with an embroidered band and the collar and fronts are garnished with mouffion. You may | line it either with yeliow or green silk. The pelerine must be up in two parts, both cut straight, and you must so join them on the shoulder as to scam with gathers, MODISH COIFFURE. Tast at present there are signs of new styles fm coiffure which will no doubt oust the Greek from its long-continued popularity. At danc- ing parties expecially is this noticeable—there being a manifest tendency to greater ornate- ness and intricacy—and yet itis an easy mat- ter to vary the classic simplicity somewhat and still retain its absolate grace. For instance, in my second illustration you will see pictured a very pretty style of dressing the hair for full dress. “You begin by waving the hair, using as little heatas possible, so as not to produc crinkled effect. Then you gather up the hair and coil it in = chignon, as represented, curling the ends and grouping them gracefully. ‘The usnal frizzettes go with this style. In my third illustration I present the back view of a very dainty little wrap for use at the opera or at a dancing party or evening r tin. It may be made up in Ince or embroid- ered chiffon. The back is gathered on a yoxe of pink feathers and set off with a large bow of pink ribbon in the middle, in whick place you mass the folds and cover them with two long ribbons springing from the bow. The fronts are sewed to the feather yoke and brought down across the bust and tied loosely just above the waist line. They are qnite detached frem the garment itself, which barely covers the arms. This light and gossamer wrap is of course more for ornament than practical use, although you make up the feather thick and beavy as to yield considerable Warmth. RAP OF CHIFFON ASD FEATHERS. I merely suggest the combination of white and . bat you may exercise your taste and in in devising others. m people are about all the average New York di m will hold, hence the woman of fashion fi it extrem difti- itto pay off dinner party obligations. But the next best thing to be invited to a swell din- r is to be summoned for the dance that fol- fag the decollete and encircling the corsage in three rows about equidistant. Silks are mach used for dinner dresses. In fact, silks are reasserting their old-time domi- nation. The changeable silks are especially in vogue. An exquisite buttercup yellow moire attracted my attention. It was trimmed with far in almost an original manner, at the bottom of the skirt and also framing the decollete, but it did not stop here. The lady wore a dog collar of pearls and there was a band of the far encircling it top and bottom. A very quaint idea, but extremely becoming to the particular wearer. For receptions and small gatherings the Jane Hadiug blouse is very modish. It is made up in white lace or in silk crepou, overhang- fuga belt of galloon set off with mak gema ‘The same gailooa frames the neck and the sleeves. In some cases these blouses are worn without sleeves at dancing parties, or for re- ception purposes you may add the Russian sleeve, which is double, a large puff ending at the elbow and the under sleeve being tight fitting and extencing to the wrist ICH SILKS AND VEL- vets, cobwebby Inces dia- gauzes, slender, grace- res banded with ribbons which drop their long floating " ick, Haniel wings from fair shoulders, trailing robes edged with far, such are a few of the eh make up » vision for | My Lady Clara of Fashion Castle, in the From her shapely oulders drop soft English | and Venetian point, whose yellow tone sets off treated in the same manner, and it will not be long before we shall find it itapossible to recog- nize these dear old friends of our youth in their new coats. It's too bad, really, to have these scientists changing the tints of flowers in this way, so that poor Mistress Mary will need be- come still more contrary if she attempts to tell how her garden grows. In my last illustration there is represented a very charming evening costume, two kinds of silk in combination, the bodice being trimmed with galloon—a bronze green ieaf on a lighter shade of green. The sleoves are of figured silk. The same mater: used to fill in the neck, but being wider in front, the galloon Tuuning to a point just above the waist line. What are we going to do when Lent comes in? is the question ‘now agitating the world of fashion. No more dancing, of course, but pos- sibly a quiet dinner party. "The modish thing, however. will be the musicale at which sacre music will predominate. The toilets will ali be in minor key, if I may so term it, toned down, but still discreetly rich. The fair penttents will Jook most charming in these Lenten costumes, which will strive for quaint and picturesque effects. The old composers—Gluck, Handel, wide berthas of heavy guipure will look most charming on the dark velvets and the moire antiques will be in lively demand. It is fortu- nate that black velvet bows and streamers are so much used. They will chime with the Lenten gloom and may be worn with almost any toilet. | They look very coquettish attached to one shoulder, and then, too, the black satin slij pers now affected by those who make a study of the fashions come in very appropriately for Lenten purpose, with the additional advantage that they make the foot look very small. PIPES AND. TOBACCO. Something About the Weed That Soothes and Comforts Mankind, SMOKING IN ALL COUNTRIES. ‘Tobacco as Currency In the Early Days of ‘This Country—Different Varieties in Other Lands—Part the Weed Has Played in Diplo- macy—Royal Ladies Who Smoke. ‘Written for The Evening Star. : OBACCO, SAYS STOW in his chronicle, was first brought to England by Sir John Hawkins in 1565. It came from Carolina, and after the settlement of James- town it became the chief article of export. So rapidly did the con- sumption and demand increase that the plant- ers neglected all other interests in favor of the seductive plant. Virginia became very noted 88 tobacco state and many towns grew rich from the export. In colonial times tobacco at one time passed as currency and many salaries were paid with it or with notes representing 1t in the ware house. Tobacco ware houses used to be known a rolling houses, from the way of rolling tobacco to market before wagons came into use. It was packed closely in a large cask with a wooden spike driven into each end of the mass. This formed the axletree. Tires were placed around the ends of the cask and a split sapling used as shafts. In this way the Staple was carried to | | 4 DANCING Gown. Afternoon teas bring out some really charm- ing little gowns. One in particular attracted my attention. Itwas in crepe de chine bor- dered with oriental embroidery, and there was a little vest of emerald velvet, gold braided and set off with mock gems. The vest opened on a chemisette of erepon, and the inevitable Wat- teau pleat was represented by a bow of satin ribbon set between the shoulders, the ends falling down over the skirt. In the line of outer garments the long jacket, coming down well below the knee, will un- doubtedly hold on to its popularity way into the spring. They will be made quite tight or merely fitting at the back and straight in front, and with such a garment a glove fit, with little garniture, is to be Preferred to a poor fit with every seam covered with rich embroidery. The long jacket is essentially a hint taken from male attire, and should always havea tailor- made look about it. You will note that plain cloth skirts, when’! they are not tailor-made, are very prettily combined with velvet. ‘The latter, in the form of a deep band cut straight, ix fitted to the bot- tom of the skirt, and after the baud is tacked on the cloth is cut in fancy edges and a braided design carried out, producing, if tastefully wrought, very rich effects. The velvet band may be of any depth you choose, but looks best when about fourteen inches wide. —+2+_____ Fogs Over Great Cities, From the Youth's Companion. Among the practical questions with which men of science are called upon to deal few are more interesting than that of the origin and nature of great fogs. It is only about eleven years since the true cause of fogs was discov- ered. Mr. Aitken, an Englishman, demon- strated by experiments in 1880 that fogs arise frgm the presence of dust floating in the air. Each minute particle of dust, too small in itself to be visible to_ the eye, serves as a point of condensation for the moisture of the atmos- phere, and as the moisture gathers the particle Becomes s visible speck of mist, Millions and millions of such particles, each loaded with condensed vapag, constitute a fog. Careful investigations have shown that even the clearest air contains an astonishing amount of dust, while, as everybody can see at a glance, the atmosphere in the near cities is filled with | microse floating part frequently | rob it of much of its -y; but while rfectly clear air scems a thing exrnestly to desired, yet Mr. Aitken'sexperiments showed that but for the dust in the air we should prob- | ably find existence far more trying than it is | now. The dust particles being absent, the atmos- pheric moisture would condense upon the trees, the grass, the ground, upon our clothes and faces, upon the walls, floors and ceilings of houses, inside and out, so that during such times us the air is charged with an unusual amount of humidity we should be covered and surrounded on all sides with streams of moist- hat would probably be the form in which ould then get rain, instead of having it 11 in showers from the sky as it now does. ll, although it can thus be shown that dust in the air serves admirable purposes, it has, of course, many disagreeable and injurious fea- res. Not the least of these is its effect in pro- euch phenomena as the celebrated fogs ndon. ch fogs are not confined to London, but mally make their appearance over ail ze and busy cities, especially those where a great deal of ‘smoke exists. The smoke parti- cles not only form excellent little fog condens- ers, but they give to the fog that black and gloomy color which is especially noticeable in fogs of London. More or less poisonous ingredients, such as sulphuric acid, are also found in the fogs of great cities. It ix natural to suppose, and it has often been asserted, that such fogs largely increase the death rate of the cities afflicted by them; but recent investigations by W. J. Russell indicate that while many more deaths occur in London just afier a great fog, yet it is probable that the real cause of the increase is not so much the fog itself as the sudden fall of temperature by which it is ordinarily accompanied. He finds that fogs not accompanied by a fall of tempera- ture are not followed by an increase in the death rate. . By cutting off the sunshine, however, city fogs cause great injury to health, and their destructive effects upon some of ‘the plants in the great botanic gardens at Kew have proved arming that Prof. Thiselton-Dyer. the director of the Kew Gardens, fears that refined horticulture may become impossible in the vieinity of London if the fogs continue to in- crease in number and intensity. One remedy recommended is the substita- tion of some fuel in the place of coal which wil not till the atmosphere with soot and dust, soe What the War Did. From the Chicago Inter-Ocean. “Tt was after the fight at Pittsburg Landing,” remarked the old soldier, “and I was going over the field picking up the wounded. We passed # lot of dead men ina clump and over beyond them a hundred yards or so I heard a faint cry and started to see what it was I found it pretty soon. A man shot through the breast was lying in a little thicket groaning in great pain. ‘ater,’ he moaned. ‘For God's sake give me water.” “I put my canteen to his mouth, and as I knelt beside him I notieed he wore’ the gray and belonged to some Georgia regiment. He almost emptied the canteen before he took it from his lips, and as he looked up at me grate- fully the tears rolied down his cheeks and be stretched his hands feebly out toward the can- teen, which I was about to sling over my shoulder again. . “<It's pretty good, ain't it? I asked, when he bad given it another pull. “ “Good.” he repeated feebly. between market to be mspected and sold. The inspec- tion was very rigid, for upon the quality de- pended its value as currency. Such notes were in use in Virginia as late as the beginning of this century. In 1610 tobacco had come into general use in England and in 1620 there was a society of to- bacco pipe makers chartered in London. The members bore upon their shield a tobacco plant in blossom. At the theater in Shakespeare's time the Spectators often had seats upon the stage, where they were attended by pages, who fur- nished them with pipes and tobacco, Smoking was introduced at the English court by Sir Walter Raleigh and became very fashionable. It is a matter of history that he offered Queen Elizabeth tobacco to smoke. She was seized with nausea, which being ob- served by some of the enemies of Raleigh, it was broadly intimated that he had poisoned her. When the queen recovered she made the Countess of Nottingham and all the mi of honor smoke a pipe out among them. THE ARAB LEGEND. The Arabs have a beautiful legend in regard to the origin of tobacco. The prophet was once traveling across the desert of Yemen. It was winter, and all the reptiles which infest the desert were asleep. Suddenly the prophet’s horse trod upon a viper and apparently wounded it. Mahommed, full of mercy, got down from his horse, and taking up the viper put it into his sleeve, hoping that the warmth would revive it. The viper soon began to stir. Incapable of gratitude, like the serpent which in the beginning, it said to Mahommed: Reverend prophet, I will bite thee?” “Nay,” replied the mild prophet, “that would be the blackest ingratitude, poor reptile, to repay a good deed with an evildeed.” “Nevertheless,” said the viner, “I shall do it. Iswear by God the almighty that I will bite thee.” When Mahommied heard the namo of Allah he wodden or ‘The seasoning. of which ve ‘may be full of charms for the amateur. To the it simply in- now saturated with tobacco juice, and that it must be replaced by another one or throngh the fire to purify it na ia done in the coffee houses of Holland. 'Every old pil browned with long use, leaves on the lipe an tongue an acrid and strong-smelling liquid, which irritates the tissue and corrodes the mucous secretions. When it bas reached this condition the finest meerschaum is no better than the Irishman'’s dudeen. Turkish and East Indian pipes, discharging its smoke aid, arrest a large proportion of through a liq the poisonous ingredients e bowl of the German pipe retains the ‘ter part of the oily products; the Dutch and English clay pipes re- tain less, The metallic pipes of Thibet, becom- ing heated, carry to the mouth acrid nicotine, but also @ smoke hot enough to burn the tongue. THE BRIAR WOOD THE BEST. The briar-wood pipe, with good, clean cut tobacco, furnishes one of the best smokes inthe world. Whether it is a costly carved meer- schaum, whose rich color gladdens the owner's heart, ora lowly corn cob, so that itis mellowed with that fine quality known as sweetness, it has a charm dear to all lovers of the fragrant weed. you are r hard rabs it has helped you over and the plea- sant reminiscences it has shared with you. A’ friend always to be relied upon, discreet, faith- ful and sympathetic. It is not generally known that the word cutt; as applied to a species of clay pipe very much used, is a corruption of Kuteich, a city in A Minor, where @ species of soft white stone is found, which is exported by the Turks to Ger- many for the manutacture of tobacco pipes. From pipes we pass for a moment to cigars, and, we venture the assertion, that not one cigar smoker out of 100 is a judge of the mate- rial he uses. Follow the rules, as given below, the results of experience by one expert in hand- ling the finest of tobacco, and the complaints over poor cigars will be much less frequent. Never buy cheap cigars, there is no economy in it. If you can't afford good cigars,smoke less and enjoy your smoke. You cannot tell whether cigar 18 good or not unless you light it prop- erly. If your cigar goes cut be sure to blow through it as soon as possible so that when you light it there will be no dead smoke in it. Leave the ashes on your cigar until they fall off. Your cigar will burn straighter and taste sweeter if you don’t knock the ashes off. Never smoke in the morning or on an empty stomach. ‘Ihe best time to smoke is after din- ner—say 6 to 7 o’clock—and smoke straight ahead until bed time. Tobacco will never hurt the most nervous organjzation if this be fol- lowed out. Lastly, never give anybody a light from your cigar. Carry matches. SOME CELEBRATED SMOKERS. There have been some celebrated smokers in the history of the world—true lovers of the grateful weed—and Old Hickory was one of them. He cared little for cigars, but his corn- cob pipes were scattered from one end of the White House to the other, and when giving audience to the Russian am lor Gen. Jack- on held between his long, lean fingers his favorite reed stem corn-cob pipe. Gen. Grant when in his prime smoked fifteen cigars a day. Leopold Morse, the ex-Congressman, uses'a round dozen, and Gen. Butler has a cigar in his mouth continually, but never lights it, Vice President Colfax limited himsel!’ to fifteen cigars per day. David Davis and Sena- tor Kenna smoked continually. Senator Con- ger allows himself three cigars daily and Allison loves a fragrant Havana. The Prince of Wales smokes a cigar manufactured specially for him by a Cuban firm. The tobacco is the finest known in the trade, and a cigar when rolled and finished, and packed in highly polished boxes bearing Wales’ “Three “Feathers,” represents exactly four English shillings each. ‘The venerable Gladstone smokes pipe. so does Booth, Tennyson, ‘Thackeray ‘and ‘Bulwer, Charles Lamb “is said to have used very poor dared not prolong the dispute, but, bowing his head with reverence’ said: “His name be praised forever: yon and I both be- long to Him; from Him we both received life,” and he offered the viper his hand. A violent pain compelled him to fling the viper from his sleeve and to curse it in the name of Allah. The prophet then sucked the viper's poison from the wound and spit it out upon the sand. A magnificent plant immediately sprang upon the spot where the prophet’s sacred saliva had fallen. One of his disciples gathered some of the leaves and burnt them as an offering to God for the rescue of his prophet. Mahom- med and his companions were delighted with the splendid aroma of the burnt offering as its smoke ascended toward heaven. From that day to this all the faithful of Islam have taken pleasure in the plant, whose taste and scent partakes in aa equal degree of the bitterness of the viper’s poison and the sweetness of the holy i spittle. HOW THE TURKS SMOKE. It is not an uncommon thing to see a Turk smoke from sixty to eighty pipes daily. The pipe is the indispensable companion of the Turk in every occupation. In the supreme porte, in the “ministerial council, where the Turkish grandees debate momentous questions of state, the question was once discussed whether ne tschibuktschis (pipe bearers) suould not be excluded. Great was the difference of opinion, but the question was finally settled in favor of the pipe bearer remaining. And yet allthe members knew very well that the deci- sion was an unwise one, for the servants, while busy with the pipes, could hear many a secret of state, and before even the sultan and the offi- cial world obtained the result of the council's deliberations the decree has been made known through the pipe bearers, Consequently to diplomatic agentg and newspaper men the techibuktschi is ¢'man of no small importance courted accordingly. 0 and pipes in Turkey indicate the gradations of rank and importance of the holders. A musehir (marshal) would scorn to use a pipe shorter than two ells, while the offi- cial of alower order is shortened in propor- tion to his grade and standing. ‘Che pasha can flaunt his pipe in public to its full propor- tions, but the true believer of low degree must not expose more than the mouthpiece, which he holds inhis hand. The Turk of prommence can puff as he chooses, but the understrapper must emit small circles of smoke, which must not go in front of him, but turns backward. In the presence of a superior not to smoke is agreeable as a mark of respect. ‘This sign of respect a son is likewise expected to show hie father, and he is regarded asa well-trained and’ well-mannered” son who, spite of the repeated requests of his father, refuses to smoke. TOBACCO IN PERSTA. Tobseco in Persia is looked upon as one of the necessaries of life and the failure of the tobacco crop would spread dismay and con- sternation throughout the length and breadth of the land. ‘There are three different kinds of tobacco produced in Persia. The first. called “tombakoo,” grown in Shurez, Ispbam and Khoorasan, is used only for the nargile. ‘The second, culled “tuttoon,” grown in Azerbijhan, is used solely for the chibouk or long pipe, and is exported in large quantities to Arabia, Asia Minor and the Caucasus. The third, called ‘cigarette tobacco,” grown in the province of Ghilan and Mazanderan, on the south shore of the Caspian sea, is used for making cigarettes and is largely exported to Russia. There is another variety, though it décs not enter into commerce, grown in’ the vicinity of Sheeraz and known as “duekhter puch"—the maiden’s lait or eurl—taken probably from the resem- Elance to a young gitl's braised hair. ‘Tobacco ranks third in the productions of Persia and amounts to over 1,000,000,000 pounds annually. Persian pipes have a wide range in point of value, shape and decoration. it is a social institution and exercises a potent influence from the highest to the lowest circles and makes its power felt even in the business marts as weil as the seraglio. PIPES IN JAPAN. In Japan much taste and refinement is dis- played in the use of pipes. The most popular | type is small brass bowl with silken tobacco bags, and, from the lady of rank to the plod- ding coolie, all use the *Kisnu,” =. only in the style of ornamentation. Tip pipe is very small, the bowl holding but a tiny pellet of the fragrant Japanese tobacco. After tak- ing a few whiffs they refill the pipe, and never smoke a bowl empty, for, as they have it, “at the bottom of a pipe lurks poison.” Much taste and no little inclination of the wealth of the owner is displayed in the various types of pipes carried by the Japanese. Ladies of rank carry them in embroidered silk cases, with beautitully embroidered pouches attached by gold and jeweled clasp. len use s pipe sheata of metal or carved ivory placed in their girdle, ‘good, pardner? I should say it was. I've and the pipe may be an ordinary brass or an been crying for it for six bours, an’I never | exquisite work of art wrought out in bronze, — cryin’ for water; anyhow, not | silver or gold, with ornaments in lacquer or ri to drink. Bat, pardner, thi upset things so a man will do.” “He didn’t say it and then he laid back in a dead faint We took him in and he got well enough in three months to drink biamed war has | enemel. tobacco, and Isaac Newton lost his sweetheart through his absent mindedness in using his fingers as a tobacco stopper. Pope, Swift, Bolingbroke and Congreve were addicted to snuff, and Fredrick the Great had a snuff ocket made in his vest to satisfy his cravings. Nelson, Decatur and Farragut all took a pull at the pipe and were fond of the weed, as is Admiral Walker of the white squadron. 'Gib- bon, the historian, was a confirmed snuff taker, and Byron sang the praises of tobacco. Milton, Locke, Raleigh, Izaak Walton, Addi- son, Steele, Kobert Burns and Walter Scott all used tobacco, and Prescott was very fond of smoking. It injured his health, however, and when his physician limited him to one cigar a day he ran all over Paris to buy the biggest one he could find. NAPOLEON COULDN'T SMOKE. The Emperor Napoleon could never smoke, although when in Egypt he several times at- tempted to do so in order to please the people. On one occasion, when the Persian ambassador presented ta him, on behalf of the shah, a very valuable and gorgeous pipe, thickly encrusted with diamonds and rubies, Napoleon's attend- ant filled the pipe and a light was applied, but in the way the emperor went to work no smoke would have appeared had he held the stem the balance of his reign. He merely opened and shut his lips in the energetic manner of a me- chanical figure. The observant and grave at- tendant showed him the correct manner in which to manage the beautiful pipe. But the emperor was unable to manage it, until, tired and vexed with repeated _fail- ures, he at last desisted, saying: “Con- stant, do you light the pipe. ‘I cannot.” This was done and the pipe was returned to him with the tobacco burning at a furious rate and a tremendous amount of sraoke. Soon veiled in smoke the unfortunate Napoleon was again in difficulty; the smoke, which he did not know how to get rid of, went down his throat and up out through his eyes aud nose. As soon as he regained his breath he gasped the words: “Take it away! What an infection! What pigs they must be whosmoke! Iam so ill.” And ill he was for some considerable time, and renounced for evermore the soothing weed. Pipes have played an important part in French society ever since Nicot, the French ambassador at Lisbon, brought back to France a large quantity of tobacco and a choice assort- ment of pipes. Wooden pipes have long since been extensively manufactured in France, where their fine qualities naturally gained for them liberal patronage among sportsmen, travelers and others, but until a few years ago the “pipes en bois” were usually made of pear tree, of box- wood or of ebony. Some observing’ persow discovered that the peasants of the Pyrenees were in the habit of smoking short pipes of “racine de bruyere,” which they gathered and carved for themselves. These Pyrenean pipes became the vogue in Paris and a manufactor; of briar wood was started in the French capi- tal. So long since as 1871 thousands upon thousands of wooden pipes, the bowls of which were carved into the similitude of the heads of ‘Theirs and Gambetta, were sold in France, the root being brought from the departments of the Pyrenees, the Var, the Correze and from Italy. ‘The advantages of the ‘‘racine de bruyere” are obvious. It is the gly wood which does not become calcined DY contact with burning tobacco. ‘TOBACCO SERVICEABLE IN WARFARE. It wasu French general who first found out that tobacco might prove eminently service- able in warfare, inasmuch as it immediately allayed the pangs of hunger. Inthe campaign of Louis X1V in Holland, bis sage minister, Louvois, when the army was short of rations diminished the ration of bread by one-half and substituted for it an allowance of tobacco. ‘The heroic mariner, Jean Bart, one of the few French admirals who ever successfully met the English, was an inveterate smoker, and, if the tradition is to be believed, he declined when commanded by the grand monarque at Ver- sailles to describe one of the most brilliant of his naval successes unless he was first per- mitted to light his pipe. Then he began: “I formed my squadron in line and ordered La Victoire to follow me closely.” “And she obeyed you,” replied, with a gracious inclina- tion of the head, the politest sovereign in the world. So intimately was the pipe with the noted French sailor that the effigy of Jean Bart became as habitual an ornament of the old French tobacconiste as the Indian of | America and the highlander of England. Although, as has been stated, Napoleon was no smoker be made pipe sm ‘immensely pular in Paris by bringing back with him veral splendid oriental pipes, from t wer which Le datetbuted among his favorite erals. He presented a “pipe of hor meerschaum, the bowl of wi 7 | Puff away after dinner at a ®t, one of those with a straw and which is brought to coffee every evening inswla loves tobacco and Stretched on low divan at strong running through it, her with a cup of on a gold salver. smokes in an orient cushions of @ Gatschina she deftly chargts hookah, with its flexible and je fills her boudoir with fleecy, Her apartment is an exact represent; room in the Alhambra. Queen Margwiom Of ® Italy is another of the royal ladies hharm in the use of tobacco, Christ regent of Spain, is a great advocat Eis oonvanes @ laree, quantity of pd cigarettes filled with selected tobacco. The smoking paraphernalia of the beautital ex-Queen Natalie of Servia is magnificent ang The poet queen of Roumania, literary world ‘Carmen Sylva,” has # gold Cigarette case suspended to her chatelain. The Comptesse de Paris is addicted to mild Havanas, and her daughter, Queen Amelia of Portugal, is never without a supply of cigarcttes. One of the largest tobacco furnaces in the iln where all of found or that which is d and burnt to ashes. But why it is not sold for the public good is a matter of conjecture. The Oyatapok tribe of Indians in South America have an immense inclosure filled with tobacco, which is kept perpetually burning, and fully 200 of the natives the burning mass at a tim reed stems into the fragrant mass smoke an puff until satiated. Tobacco may doa great deal of harm, but it brings into the national coffers a vast ‘The annual expenditure for liquor in the United States, based upon the figures given by the National Temperance society, is $90,000,000; 600,000,000, while public education is repre- ith $86,000,000, The daily consump- New York city is over Perfumed smoke. veryelaborate. known to the pseudonym of world is called th will gather about and pushing lon; amount of revenu fobacco follows with tion of cigars alone There is German proverb that runs: “He who doth not smoke hath either known no great it Tefuseth to himself the softest conso- tion.” And true it is that tobacco, properly used, is a great boon to mankind.’ At home and abroad, in youth and age, in trouble or joy, TREASURES FROM THE ROCKS. Remarkable Curiosities at the Survey—How Mountains Are Made. “we ‘VERY REMARKABLE CURIOSITIES are placed side by side ona little shelf at the geological survey. One is a lump of chal- cedony as big asa child’s fist, white and trans- lucent. It is but a thin shell, and when held to the light is seen to be nearly filled with water, which flows about as the object is turned this way and that. What makes it in- teresting is that the water has undoubtedly been inclosed and hermetically sealed in this nataral receptacle for thousands and thousands of years. Probably it was there long before Moses was born, and yet not « drop of it has evaporated. Originally there was a cavity in the rock, formed by a volcanic bub- ble. Water percolated into it, briga- ing in solution silex, which was de- Posited on the walls of the little hollow in a coating of chalcedony. At length it would have been filled up solid with beautiful erys- tals, forming one of those “geodes,” as they ‘ste called, which are nature's treasure caskets, found concealed in rocky formations where Trant expected and revealing wonders of bril att color. Agates are made in the same ion. However, in this instance the small qhannel by which the water flowed in and out coms mo closed up in some way and so the pro- felt e7PPed. After the lapse of no one can taining tatty Centuries the stony mass con- conte tee chalcedony chamber with its liquid 's was broken open and it fell out, being The other curio us object above referred to through Beers to be a petrified oster, ent half shell, jut as it would legk when: opened custo Frade formed Somer It waa found in chalk bivalves, probably many. oye among them. The so-called “heart” of the animal, which is its big muscle, and all the other parts are Wonderfully distinct, ‘There is even asmall pearl in it seemingly. Yet itis not an oyster at all, but merels’cwe of thoes marvelous imitations} which nature woken ot her own works in freakish moods. The government rock sharps find many a surprising curiosity among the rocks whic br is their business to investigate. Just nee ct the office of the geological survey they mova gaged in building imfation mountal purpose of studying the way in eternal bills were formed by the crumpling deg to the contraction of the earth's crust” The coal basins and other valuable mineral deposits in many parts of the United States have under- gone just such crumpling, so that it will be what pleasures, what comfort, lies in theuse of “Then smoke away till a eet ‘The blows of pain’ profitable to ascertain the laws governing it, These imitation mountains are built of wax, hardened or softened by mixing it with other substances, so that it shall resemble in con- sistency the brittle rocks near the surface of the earth or the plastic rocks which are in that condition because of the great pressure that exists even at depths of only two or three miles, as the case may be. The mixture is cast in layers of @ given thickness by melting and flowing it in a wooden trough. When each layer has hardened it is taken out and anumber of the layers thus made are one one upon the other, like layers of jelly repre- senting geological strata. The next process is to place the layers in a machine, piling shot on top of them to represent the force of grav- ity, after which pressure is applied from the ends very slowly by a piston advanced with a screw. ‘This causes them tocrumple up and under the artificial contraction they are found to take precisely the forms of mountain ranges like the Alleghenies. pantera AWFUL SHRIEK OF A BOMBSHELL. A Brave Man Tells How He Was Affected the First Time He Heard It. From the Pittsburg Dispatch. ‘The talk turned upon personal courage ina conversation { had the other day with an aid- de-camp of Gen. Alexander Hays. The veteran, who had the name of being the most daring aid on Hay’s staff, said: “Youask me how I felt when I first smelt powder, soto speak. Well, after the lapse of all these years I'm almost ashamed to tell you. I was panic stricken, scared out of my senses, my courage vozed out of me in an instant, and small boy could have captured me without trouble. This awful experience came after I had been about a year in the army. The regi- ment of infantry in which I was was preparing to go into camp. We were a few miles outside of Yorktown, which was in the possession of the confederates, but none of us, noteven our officers, realized the proximity of the enemy. ‘There were some cattle with the army, und somehow or other some of my comrades and I were part of the crowd that drove the beeves to the place where they were to be slaughtered. We formed a circle, a sort of bull ring. and fell toskylarking and firing at the cattle as they Tan hither and thither. Itwas all laughter and shouting. “Suddenly, without the sound that we had never above the clamor. It was a sort of whirring howl, lasting a few seconds only, but long enough to strike terror in our hearts. The men who hed been as gay and noisy as school boys a minute before were dumb. I don’t re- member how they behaved. My own affairs kept mo busy. I felt as if my boots were nailed tothe ground. They wouldn't move, neither wonld my legs—in fact I had lost con- trol of my body. I was perfectly iimp and my knees sagged out. That w: strange sound, as of some bird fly ly you, that that enemy was shelling us. All I knew for sure was that somehow my life, which I had enjoyed so much a minute before, was in danger. I wanted to run, but my legs wouldn't obey me. Two shells passed over me before I could shake off the paralysis. hen Iranas I never ran before or since, with a professional sprinter's speed, to the shelter of the woods from which our regiment had only just emerged. A second terror seized measI reached the first scattering trees. I had selected one, a big fellow, as my refuge, and when I reached it three other men who were crouched behind it pushed me violently away, saying there wasn't room for more. Sheils were still in the air, and with terror I ursued my flight. When’ at last I fell ex- Bausted upon the ground beyond the range of the enemy's artillery I almost lost conscious- ness tor a while. ‘Novody was killed by those shells, but the srebs’ must have laughed tosee us run and laughed louder yet when our cattle ran into their lines as they did. I felt more or less un- comfortable always in going into battle after- ward, but never again lost my nerve as I did at my fire baptism before Yorktown. ——__+e-—_-___ The Thought Transmitted, From the Detroit Free Press It was the seventeenth time that he had made a visit in the hope that he could collect the entire amount of the bill or at least get something on it, but as he entered the door he was greeted by the debtor with: “I know would have bet my life on it!’ “On what?” asked the collector. “Mental telegraphy. It's a clear case—the best illustration of thoug bt transmission I ever saw. I've had you in my mind for two hours, wanted to see you awrully but didn’t know how to reach you, 80 I just took a seat and thought of you and how badly I wanted to see you and here you are.” “Why did you wish to see me?” “I wanted to tell you that I can’t pay you anything on that bill untila week from next Wednesday. Just think of it, by the utilization of air currents and electricity in conjunction with mental force L brought youto me. Rea- sonable, isn’t it?” “And that’s mental telegraphy !” tries, or ‘better yet, we call it thonght- transmission. It is the most recent marvel in ‘and tho most remarkable because, while we know that the power exists we do not know its form, we have no comprehensions to is operaticy and we cannot analyze it." “Um-m. wife the other day when s man met them and very effusively shook his hand. “Ah, how do you do? How do you do? How RATS AND RABIES. The Brains of Dead Rodents Furnish the Germs of Hydrophobia. (TSE Laresr pEvELOPMENT OF DIB- ease prevention and cure by inoculation is the disease and do not take it when inoculated with rabien Ob- viously, it has not been considered practicable to make this test with people, but it is gen- erally admitted that what *pplies in this way to rabbits and guinea pigs may apply to human ‘Two Italian savants, Profs. Tizzoni and Cat- tani, have recently isolated germs of lockjaw and have not only rendered guinea pigs and rabbits immune from the diseaso by injecting a Rolson derived from them, but have cured xix aman beings attacked by the complaint by | means of inoculation. As is well known lock- | PEARLS FROM THE OCEAN. Some Methods Sugcested for Making Them by Artifica—Items About the Fisheries. VER SO MANY EXPERIMENTS HAVE been made with a view to procuring the manufacture of nataral paris through artifice, For thousands of voars the Chinese have prac- ticed a method of introducing foreign objec into oysters and other peari-bearing mollusks for the purpose of coating them with the beau- tifal nacre which adorns the inside of some initiated numerous efforts to improve upon them. Quite recently « distin- Frenchman discovered a way of a0- complishing the result, which he has declared to be susceptible of development into an im- tindustry. Now that the pearl market of the world is seriously menaced by the threatened exhaustion of the fisheries, it ia high time for buman ingenuity to step in and pply the demand. The process adopted by the Frenchman aforessid, M. Bouchon-Brandely, is simply te bore holes in the shells of the pearl oyster with ‘a cimlet, introducing through these perfore- dow has hitherto been considered almost inevit- | tions little balls of glass and stopping ably fatal. The germs of the discare sccm to | hermetically with corks. After four weeks be found in the surface soil, s0 that immense | time the balls of glass are found to be covered numbers of them may exist’ in anybody's gar- | den. Rats can be given lockjaw by simply mixing a little garden earth with their fo. That is the reason why a wound from a rusty nail is apt tocommunicate the trouble. It not the rust that is responsible, as is com monly thonght, but rusty nail is @ dirty one, “and — presumab) lying on the ground. ‘It has lockjaw germs on it and they inoculate the victim. Such a burt in the palm of the fiand or the sole of the foot is likely to produce the trouble, because in gither place there is a bundie of nerves. The disease is one of the nervous eystem. A regular hatchery for rabbits and guinea piss, is maintained near Washington by the ureau of animal industry, where these unfor- tunate victims of science are raised in large numbers for purposes of inoculation with un- Pleasant complaints, With the same object in view many rats are trapped wherever they can becaught. It is rough on them, but in this Nays knowledge of methods for ‘treating ani- for hog cholera and other destructive dis- eases is being obtained which promises to ef- fectively wipe out these afflictions within a Very few years. The germs of each disease Produce « special and peculiar poison inci- demtally to feeding upon the tissues of the beast attacked. This poison is got in a pure state by an elaborate chemical process, diluted [ith water and injected with a squirt.’ Koch's lymph is a preparation of this description, from reneamption germs. All of these germs are teria of different species, microscopic veg- Organisms, which act as destructive par- ssites. Likewise it is with the germs which Produce diphtheria, pneumonia, carbuncle, Giligen,t? Phoid fever, &c. They are all studied iScntly by science the world over, and it is Suly @ question of « comparatively short time when their operations will be to a great extent with a th Of pearl. In six monthe the | layer bh: = toe of a sufficient thickness to be and the bigness of the, jewel thus 4 is in proportion to the pet apse. Of course this has ite limi | tations, inasnuch as the wee, ae posit nacre indefinitely, its only object protect itself trom irritation by the intradem The expert quoted believes that pearls can b® Mace of various colors to order by selection. TRALLS OF DIFFERENT COLORS. This siguifies selection of the molluske ems Ployed for the purpose. Each one naturally deposits its own sortof nacre. Even peasl differ im that respe ‘ording to the part of the ani where the nucleus makes its lodgment. Conchs of a well-known variety form pearls, wty form vinl as do also certain fresh-water muse _ that there is anything in M. RouchonEiwam- delv's theory, one can get any color of pearl wishes by making a choice of shelley Berge experiments made by the United States commission show that marine moilus kinds can be kept ndmirat although previous notions have been feld the contrary, and thus there would seem to be no good reason why every one should not maintain his own pearl fishery on « small scale, collecting a valuable crop at suitable in- tervals, Agreat deal has been done with mat pearis by artifice alread, soo some time ago found out outer layers of these ge: that wae within and render them marketable al big prices. ‘Those which were found imbedded in the mother-of-pearl of the shell they discov- ered a process for extracting, treating them qUccessfully antagonized. Thus great di to the health of mankind will be reasoved. or 60 far modified that th Tite will beast the average length of Laman NECK AND NECK. ‘Two South African Giraffes Engage in Desperate Battle for Leadership, 2 From the London Graphic, To the south and eastward of Lobengula’ capital is situated Macalaca Land. It was con. quered by that doughty monarch’s father, Mos. ilikatze, and still remains subservient to the Matabeles. The approximate position of my camp at the time I witnessed the scene 1 will | endeavor to describe was latitude 21° south, | longitude 32° east. ¢ ‘S me was marvel- ously attractive, although only sand, very sparsely covered with bush, therefore totall useless for agricultural or ‘, but through the flat veldt's surface, at irregu. lar intervals, rose copjes of immense Liockeut stone, piled one upon the other, that resemble. the debris that might have been left after ‘These eruptions from beneath the earth's surface were covered with purasitic plants, decorated with most attractive fruits. gorgeous blossoms. A species of aloe, too was numerons, the upright stem which bears ss flower having a very striking resemblance t. civilization’s unsightly telegraph This country is not destitute of water, as is and leopards that frequent the copjos and the eer. zebras and guinea fowl wander over the flats. Possibly the indigenous Bush. men know where to find this necessity of life their secret from me and m: le. I riding slowly along admiring the besutifol car broken by an unknown sound, which echoed }oed from the surrounding crags. was not the honest bark of the baboon, or the reverberating voice of the lion, or the hyena’s them, uttered in quick, successive gasps. On inquiry of my follower he informed fee thet kameels (giraffes) were the originators of the unknown sound. The Massara begged me to follow him. | This I did. and so becume witness of one of the most extraordinary sights in wil life that I had ever seen. Those who heey dwelt in the distant east have doubtless seen male camels fight and noted with what ob- stinacy, power and vieiousness they try to maim or disable one another; how they shrick with Tage over each advantage that they obtain and yeil with pain when they are severely burt. A giraffe duel much resembles a camel's, as will be seen from what I proceed to state. ‘The rivals were not well matched—the taller was out of condition and very old; the other was in splendid form and in the prime of life. Jeoncluded that a fight was imminent and ha: no difficulty in deciding which would be the vietor. They ronred in unison, as if each were trying to drown the other's voice; sometimes this would cease for a few momenis and then begin again with renewed strength. Presently the belligerents came within a few yards of ‘each other. Then commenced a Scene that batfies ail description. Some peo- ple might call it ludicrous; it was far more, it was side-splitting, and but for my desire to see the end I must have given way to convul- sions of laughter. Although the giraffe pos- sesses a certain beauty when at rest it loses its grace when in motion, and the greater its speed the more ungainly does it appear. But when two mature bulls in to waltz and dance vislently aronnd enct other, each en- deavoring to outdo the other in agility, at the same time mumbling their jaws and emitting fearfully discordant roars, it is certainly one of the most absurd sights human oye ever looked upon. I have often seen # crane dauce—a function common enough north of the Vaal river; it is more than funny—it is ridiculous — but cannot for an instant be compared to the antics of these two mammoth brutes. Their height added to the grotesqueness of their ior, buteven if the beasts had been no bigger than goats or sheep the absurd manner in which they swung about their feet, con- torted their bodies and swayed their heads must have moved the most p) ic. We lay hidden and quiet wile the rivals were getting closer and closer to each other; at length, when they were nearly within strik- ing distance, simultaneously each ped. upon his knees and commenced to twist and twine his long neck about that of the other, with the evident purpose of ‘seizing his ad~ versary's throat. ‘This lasted several minutes, but both were “skilled of fence” and ulti- a Ee Ht gdesk il ER il HT tf He Le Se HRT i i i 4 i alt i a i i! misery; Pastoral purposes, | ® gigantic city or mammoth for. | attested by the numbers of baboons, monkeys | ors of this distant landscape. In close attend. | *sked with ance was my Massara guide. My reverio was | PreP&Fation than x few intlations of theirlanps. afterward acid and rendering them of value, In a similar fashion they transform pear-shaped ones into perfect epheres. Like- Wise they have found means to make pearls of any color black in a bath of nitrate of silver or to turn them into rose color, lilac, gray or what not. However, experts know how to detect all of these deceptions. PRRISHABLE VALUABLES. Pearls are very perishable. They cannot be considered a first-rate investment, like dia- monds. Afters time they decay. Sometimes fine specimen will lose its luster and beauty within @ few months, so that the possessor of such treasures does well to keep them put away in @ sealed piace. They are very made, consisting of thin films overlaid one upon another, with more or less animal matter between the layers, and it is no wonder that ey deteriorate. After being buried in the | ground for @ while they are found worthless. Those which are dug out of Indian graves— { them of great size and doubtless of rful beauty when they were new—are even were they not pierced. & pure and evanescent m which seems better to be- » than any other sort of jewel. much in value as ‘pearie, n_wflects the market con- es white ones are songht, at interealsare in demand. For some years past binck pearls have beon the Eao Audits "Pecimes wartn 000 will Tetok | $1,000 pertiaps af another can matob it perfec i eer | Neverti beauty about t | come the maid Nothing var | With them ta: *tantly. THE PEARL DiveRs. | The most skillful pearl divers in the world are those of the Tuamotu Archipelago. ‘They think nothing of staying under water for three Minutes on occasions, and they carry no weigh but these astute savages carefully concealed | 2,27 them down to the depths, as de the fishermen of Ceylon. Unlike the intter they @o not stop their ears and nostrils with cotton but descend with no other lowever, they do wear a sort ead- Te | 27e8 with spectacles of ginsa, by the which they ere able to look down many fathoms into the clear water discordant laugh, but a combination of all of |SD@ Mark the oysters which the a togather. Forty years ago it was pomible to buy with @ gallon of ram or afew handfuls of flour in those South Sea islands most bewutifal molluscan jewels, but siuce then the fisheries have been ‘so overworked that ously threatened with cxbaustion. it is believed that pearl uy > fully propagated. “In that warm region they spawn during all the year, and with proper measures taken for breeding them there 1-0 reason why they not be made more Profitable than ever. The most valuable mother-of-pearl, which is.@ product incidental to the peari-fishing industry, is obtained from Macassar and is used for tmaking sumptuous furniture. it is worth €1,000. ton, Life on a revenue cutter during erule- ing is one of hardship and danges, tt nnn of constant exposure to all kinds of weathen, and is so trying that only men of strong aud robust constitutions can safely undergo it Even in these not infrequently ere sows tie Ps ‘This he has to perform in all sorte of Fog, snow storm, cold, high wind or is scldom considered # sufficient glecting to board « vessel bound eign port. Such « vessel has boarded while under way—a very dangerous undertaking, requiring of expericnced judgment. Breat coolness and considerable plsek’ on board the vessel, examining her certifying to her matifest, &¢., she ably carried the boarding officer or three miles from te el iid a 4 no unusual thing for ti ‘A paper company at Niagara Palls finds it ne easy task to decide how the terrific power from the 190 feet head of water which is to be at their ‘disposal shall be utilized. At a recent confer- ence of the officers of the company about twenty wheels and methods of