Evening Star Newspaper, November 3, 1888, Page 6

anttnont NOVEMBER 3. 1888. THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D.C., ‘written for Tax Evesixe Stan. has taken a fine residence on K street, a few ART IN JAPAN. showing us a wonderful specimen of gold lac- RENAISSANCE OF FASHION. satin and secured by gilded lock and | Mme. M: just before her to HOUSEFURNISHINGS. NOTABLE WOMEN. doors west of 17th. She has closed her resi- 5 quer cit ‘in cherry-blossoms and trees, with he .. The box is Sse mg for a jewel | young Mr. = September, 1886. ~ = — ——— — dence in Baltimore and comes to Weshing- | Day With the Expert Japanese | « river and houses in the distance, “is $940.and | The Practical Versus the Picturesque | box for the dressing table paper is 1 yas tating Chale: Gaugues, te Oo] Coonenn Bie, Gir: rete Gockat Temwmephe’ end Domestic |ton toe the winter ia (eno ner mrad Reus the? made the old Isoquer would —— stint “wrong 0 hall devoted tos. Academy of the Dramatic fhe | weeks of her life-long friend, Mrs, Hornsby, of | nme caaze FOR CURIOS IN THR LAND oF Tux | Cost 3600, but there would be no morket| rm maar cncLE— FRENCH rasmross axD| with ole, gamete, and semi-precious | art a score of young ladies who hed entered ie Fe ganar mene ETE Arras | Ciera Cental nad Sees of Geis | MOBMIXO—nOw tax nes cnrecrn ov ane ans | OFHLT 7 OT Saeco PESDSMEEASCS OF FR | St at Er stearate | he tnseten ab tee bogianing sf thefll eee WHAT WASHINGTON SOCIETY Witt Lose—ni | wan ao ‘much delighted with the life SEMIBFED—NABETS OF ABEIFIOESS AMD DEAL-| 4, rogarts the antiquity of the lacquer in-| T=". AuD “ommmcroms” sreuap—wies- trigs encrusted with snow, the inkholder ‘| term last Friday were being pat throngh their ‘COOKING STOVES ‘FeRN OF — LASE TO MAKE HER HONE | capital that she then determined to return for | =ES—CLOISONNE AND LACQUER MAKING. dustry Japanese chronicles' give the name of CLES IN MANY CHANGING COLORS. little, gl or other oe on his first lessons in a or the a On hated and for mabe r (NUTON. sensor e cs 1 ef x ‘ 4 haunches, moat a a i instructress, Mra. ae a GB Perea Cool map eet ar Sh Seetinr peewee hr amano SOU (TN 4s a revival in tho chints | 3!" Georgen, Aiaong the ‘new pupils. wan. & om ne oe 2 tment” un e an, Nov. i i 7 i The mdden change in the quasi-ofiicial re- | chat a he ox periences of the greater care Toxvo, August 27. ron we tc bee ia tee daveean ounlars | “aridiien fue once tees eosocttact con't cushions of ‘our grandmothers, which are | vcry earnest and intelligent-appearing young | ™b31 WASHINGTON GASLIGRT COMPANE. lations between the Governmeut of the United | States and Lord Sackville, the representative | of her majesty’s government at Washington, | taken in its social aspects, will be very eriously felt in the round of fashionable | eatertainments which have been contem- | lated im official and diplomatic circles for the coming season. The vastly in-/| ereased private revenues of Lord Sack- | ville, from his newly inherited estates of Kmole, Seven Oaks, Kent, aggregating 540.000. and his allowance from the diplotmatic | budget of his government, amounting to ‘$20,000 more. placed him in position to even | extend the liberality and elegance of his social | entertainments during the season, and particu- larly as it was his intention to retarn to Eng- | Jand in the spring to give his attention to cer- | tain legal formalities and signature of papers attendant upon the transfer of the baronetey | of Sackville, and might not return to the | United States. The attachment of Lord | VICTORIA SACKVILLE-WEST. Sackville and his dauchters for Washington » friends they have ville and his danght 3 to participate in the nuptials of Misa Flora West, the minister tarried in London for “several weeks, In conferen with Lord Salisbury. the subject of his trans- ler to 2 post of ambassadorial rank was dis cussed. when Lord Sackville expressed a desire transfe st two mont tain salons of ¢ canch benutified and i: rishings and embellish since the c tions of Lord Sackville ail these maguitivent prepar. will be lost to those fashionables who have a place on Miss | West's social jist. IN LOONING BACK over her seven years’ re ean capital, Miss West a retrospect of the n of fur- been added. 1 ization, st <ct between ad | since the de by inheritane at Washington, abandon her home in Baltimore and reside ‘here for the remainder of her day Every me er of Mrs. Johnston's family who is near of kin have th of her hrsband an: » child ren, some years ago, She has practically lived in retirement enjoying only the associations of « circle of intimate friends. Sho has also passed some time in Europe and now returns to Washington to enjoy the evening of her days smid the scenes of her social triumphs, HER YouTH. In her girl end maidenhood she was re- nowned for her beauty, and to-day, more than thirty years after she entered the Executive Mansion with her uncle, she is still a handsome woman. Her beanty belonged to that healthful endaring type, which ripens with years. She was the dangiter of President “Buchanan's eldest and favorite sister. Jane. James was the eldest of the family nd Jane Bachanan, being | but tvo years younger, their lives as children were passed together. - When Jane Buchanan married Elliott T. Lane, y part of the second decade ‘of the + husband was an influential mer- ged in trade, carried on across thi . in Pennsylvania, Harriet Lane Alleghani was th Her uncle er, and oeensions "that depth of affection Ter parents died nd, though weil off d a home with her irdianship. ivacious Taanners, a great mimic, robust and strong. AT cover. Her school days Jus ended. Harrict Lane went with her uncls, in 1852. to the court of James as minister under tho Pieres Admin- istration, and was publicly regarded the py ing lady of the There 28 & point o' mn the dow- | agers cud royal satel r place at { dinners or ether she should take her j or daughter, ‘The queen herself de questioa of Bre- by commanding that she take her she were the wife of the still young. she uncle, and sought hi American mir Her first | pro bag—yon 1 students, ne her un by the aman to her to the Lane is tration of | of its di | . ! h | es i the asperities of partisan ran- ) The visist of the Prince of W: ing | T regime was an historical event. After the ose of her uncle's padlic career she retired | him to_ the s¢ aof Whe: a { ears after mar nry Eikiett Johw:ton, | he her sis- | ad mother, the ath of | er husband, and the mer rat Lane pres: DATS. symmetrical pro- York with her d ting her | you might offer him £400, and a few days 1 Under the guidance of ”. | Lspent two di There is hardly a drawing-room in London or Paris or New York in which there are not one or two objects of Japanese art, and yet not until you reach Japan do you discover what the craze for Japanese “curios” really is, The second thought, if not indeed the first, of almost every globe-trotter who comes to the Land of the Morning is to procure some Japanese artistic antiquities, either to add to the beauty and in- terest of his own home or to excite the envy of other collectors, The air is fall of talk about “old pieces” and “fine bits” and “magnificent specimens,” and when two tourists meet almost the first question they put to cach other is, “Have you bought much?” Everybody buys something, either new or old, and needless to say in many cases the former passes for the latter. How the new is made, however, and by whom, or what chance there is of finding the old and ein great value may consist, the vast majority of travelers know nothing what- ever. I¥ RIDING AnoUT ToRYO you see a number of shops exhibiting collec- tions of curios and bric-a-brac for sale, but these are fifth-rate dealers to whom no expert buyer ever thinks of going, and their eollee- tions are not much above those of our pawn- brokers athome, Real objects of art. are never exhibited by the dozen. fm Japan, either by ts or private owners, A Japaucse = his collection carefull 5 y in boxes and cotton-wool, and when he has a guest coming he selects a few, according to the time of year, the character of the rooms proposes’ to place them, and what he to be the taste of his guest, A keeps his stock in a fire-proof go-dow tacked to his shop, and when you go to buy tes you 0 a private room, rranges cushions on the floor for you with tea and a series of _ compliments Utalk, and after twenty mimites or | half an hour Le claps his hands and his boys bring the pieces in one by one, extracting ach in taru from its box aud soft wrapper of | old brocade or cloth and setting it before you. Your inspection over, it is delicately wrapped upagain. These boxes are beautifally mad and are carefully preserved with the insc tions on thom and the. W all of whi furnish some evide ticity. ‘The ler shows you what he likes and does not em to care at all whether you buy or not. And it is not much use to ask him o show you ang particular objects; the | i8 a Kind of collector's Tucky- must sec them as they come of the warchouse, Nor is it worth while, soon discover to your surprise, 1 with him, except for articles of cons je value. If he shows you a screen for 38 ter it might be sent to your house for $450; but you would probably waste your time in offer- ing him #45 for a lacquer tray priced at $50. ‘The dishonest dealers are perfectly well known, nd few people trade with them except rich travelers who like to be told that the object fore them is exactly what they are looking for, while the honest dealors are above suspi- ion of extortion. AMONG WORKMEN, It is equally true of the best modern produc- tions that you cannot see them in quantity any- Whore ‘The makers of them are true artists in d to see them work you must follow | d watch them executing commis- aptain Brinkley among the artificers of Tokyo— 4 of the keenest ploasures of art study, of those whom we Visited lived on the ex tekirts of Tokyo, almost in the country, | ‘hin hix little home, with two or three | c him, Sworked away under umstances of life, and under itions giving the freest scope to his genius and fancy. The only place we visited — that ambled a factory was two di ALD. lacquered articles wore received in liew of taxes, and afterward, so great was the value set upon lacquer for’ the emperor's own use, that the making of it except in the imperiel hibited. In the lacquer could no longer be procured from the wil farmer was compelled, first, to plant from trees, lacquer department was eighth contury, as enoug) forty to eighty lacquer ond, to pay his taxes in lacquer-trees very hardy. extant is & box which held the hist priest who lived in A.D. highly probable that if workin mean work of the straightforward and cheap kind—was understood and coul other countries it would be found applicable to an infinite namber of useful purposes. For ex- xperiments are making in Yokohama at this moment to determine whether a coating of lacquer will not prove a perfect covering for ample, a ship's bottom, ‘THE ACTUAL MANUAL of tho Japanese artisicer seems remarkable to not strike his fellow-countrymen us, but it do as being much out of the cor deed the traveller in Jay transfer his wondor from nation. This extraordinary people w: z e toward them saw or pla pushing it aw sheir se who sit dowy who make 1¥ aston 0 will ofa “8 ) man-of-Wwa int ng will kn for the childre! ¥ little job anid manual do for you, To f you happen to be wnficring from that inful inflictior ko a ha y y to himself round the ,and with only a twit the whole of the discased and pa vourself remove flesh, JAPANESE IDEA OF NUMOR, What the ordinary Japanese his works of art is the quaint or comic telling of ing of a humorous incident, rving of the man carefully lifting the ich ho has put down over a rat, and yor dep 3 with uplifted club it comes ont, while the ra ay a corner, hus eseaped and is sitting’ on his back pri ‘h appeals to their fanc a great many photographs in Japan of sorta of people, instantancous street studies of dancers and portraits of geisha, row everywhere, as they are 6 oldest piece of’ Inequer-work ‘4 ran the other way from ours, the presence of a supe remark of Fespect, who blew their noses upon ud wrap their parcels in pocket-handker- wre born with # mannal dexterity that is ng. ‘Bhis is trne of everybody, 11 and women, low and high alike. Your knots, repair is vehic din anything you are doi cess over his shoulder—that is the spirit trees, every and lacquer. seC- Now scarf of a Budd- . 540, It seems in lacquer—I Jd be practised ix SKILL mmon. And in- learns to ividual to the o puil the instead .of the threads of for asa finn) man yk at th off charming m by the how es intel ay Japanese > only one ex- . a boil, your pass ‘it by ge to most enjoys in to smash it as t, having eaten up his. slecve watching the Lh ws, di although some of them seemed to me rather | intorosting, ny Japanese friends did not care for them st all. But one day I took a picture of a very pretty girl with her arm round a large carved wooden Daruma—an effigy of the saint | who squatted in such a prolon; templation of the natare of things that his legs rotted oif—and looking teasingly into his face while his fixed see with an appealing look, gaze over her head appeal for help against the over this picture at Inst m: enthusiastic. “That is exce qitis delightful itis Japone fame of this photograph reac and a paragraph appeared in congratulating me upon it, and giving the name f the owner of the Darwna—a very sedate person—who was by no mea notoriety of that particular kind, IN PARTNERSHIP WITH FOREIGNERS. As soon as the treaty-revision question is set- lady of the ation to the Tais the young i more intitanic the time. relations wth toe social «de of the present Admin’ equally pleasant. | One of the ear: Sira. Clevelanc } e was to adiress 4 note to should she siends vieiting im the cis glad to receive thera, en i waive the formality of sending wn; for an appoiutmen a return for socialattentions from th lies, Mint West ususlh er- | nd Fair- | h their Ladies at a fegotion dinner. At | ion ball of leat winter. every branch jovernment was represented, | ta which were and Sackyille have been « ‘There will benno gayéties at the British le- | gation to assist in the social wind-up of the | Present Alministration. ‘TRE FUTURE HOME OF MISS WEST Hi where she will be queen | of allshe surveys, will Oaks, It ix on hour and’a half oat of |! London, and most beant toric estates of Eng land. It e of the show places of the edregion of Kent. The Fe revenues of the estate e. a8 =! over King ed. with the historic feeds of the dukes of y orset. ‘The mansion Ge, contams 134 rooms, 39 gq tsireases and 365 win- dows. A feature is the ~Stlver-room.” the state bed chamber in which King Jomes [ slept when — visiting . Iti a Solid construction of the argen- tiferoas metal. The grounds are large and the —thudenis frmed for th rare display 67 horticul- tural taste. The pictures and tapestrics of Knole ire rare and famous. The houschoid establishment includes many equipazes and a large retinue of servants. All this ele gance’by the elevation of her father to m rank will be under the direction of the yomg jy who will #0 soon retire from the fashion- s in ston. a tof these’ tions between the President and Lord Sackville has been followed by an almost overwhelm- ing receipt of letters and notes by Miss West ‘rom her friends in Washington and man; parts of the United States. ‘The family of Sackville is derived from Her-! brand de Saliavills. who, after having sccom- panied the Conqueror to England, returned to the duchy of Normandy in 1000, The descend- ants hay been members of the queen's privy council, lords high treasurers and peers of the realm. ‘being elevated to the earidom of Dorset. Baron de le Warr Feeeived hi» first sumutvons ur 1299. ‘The broth- ors and sisters of Lord Sackville are pro: im English affairs, The eldest. Visedunt | suficient data for a computation of the orbit | disearde: op tly for her st armed { nd iaken posses- asbin denve of Gen. P: which she the return belle of Kate etarning to pests at | -s0* The Lick Observatory. Franciseo Baillet n, Oct. 20, The work that is being eat the Lick ob- servatory is of a character to gratify. not only | the astro ave charge of the costly | instramen t the public, which looks upot the great gift of James Lick as in a manner ; erty. The success which | ed the labors of the | y and his k inch of sciene. possess the m_ the world, it has been abur eral important dis: ready. and new and ytill more in likely goon to be made, The it and mass of the binary st i m and powerful telescope that she now has portant ones ud, made eult to be neasured by less expert observers, A recent | observation with the great telescope afforded | of this int g binary star. This orbit been computed by F hacberle, who finds that the period of revolution of one of the com- bout the other is twenty the period of Saturn's Combining Pr: parallax of i the total ‘gran cot. ips, deft hand, and active limb, in & vesture tri nteen, age eports the queen. vilinge street a-down ‘To purchase stuf: to make grandma & c maid best be had at Kona © stall selected, what the price to pay? perous lin pulse and a gay ¢ price, my pretty miss, Js fromthe buyer for each yard & kiss, And the more yards you take the bet Said Emma, thankfully, And If this Cvening you come up our way, Cali in; ‘tis grandma's purchase, and she il pay.” | months,” he replied, ‘oisoune enemel waa being made, and unpleasant reminder of home’ was | due to the fact that an order for these en- Is tor the foreign market, sutlicient to oc- rs, had been recently re- 3 of making cloizonne is very irst the plain copper vase or taken between the knees of the aips off bits of brass, the six- | | euth of an inca wide, from # ug roll before | | | this ou him, bends them with tweezers and glues them 1 edge to the copper, thus making the ou BY lines and detail lines of the finished sketch | lying beforo him. An apprentice is putting | the simple pattern in this way upon the #i bottom of a tray, while the most skilfal work- man is poring over the delicate lines of the | eyes and feathers of a cock on a plaque. nis outline is next passed to a table ween two workmen, who fill up the eratices with enamel, still foliowing the d orizinal before them, from. fif little cups of colored pigments. Then the work is fired, again painted with enamels, again | fired. and so on till little is seen but a daub-like | the greatest care until the shining edge of tie brass strips is reached and at precisoly the | same point the samo colors are a perfect copy | of the painting. Cloisonne making ix labor of the most minute kind added to exquisite skill | nding and combining of pigments. | The result in its highest form isa painting more delicate than water colors, and more laste | ing than brass. | Formerly only geometrical | t decorative designs were thus mad: a | birds and fish and snow scenes have reached. IN THE TOME OF AN IVORY-CARVER. An ivory-carver sut in his room, open to his little garden, chiselling upon a magnificent | tusk from which the form of a very graceful female figure was inst emersing. ‘The ivory he held between his knees while his tools y his “How long | I asked. “About four | “And what is the pro- | portion between the value of the material and the value of the labor in such a work as this when completed?” “I paid $140 for this piece | of ivory, and four months’ work at 850 a | month is $200. Total cost about 350" —£54. Fancy one of the most skilful and original artificers in the world—for this men’s ivories are admired everywhere—simply estimating | his own labor at 50 silver dollars—less than £8 —a month, while at home our great painters do not hesitate to ask a thousand guineas for a pic- ture covering a few square feet. Is there any doubt which is the true temperament of the artist? “Are you not very sorry some- times to | aes with one of ‘these’ work that has been your companion and par of your life for so long?” He looked up 7 4 moment at a big white lily nodding above him in the garden, hen gently shook his head. “No,” he said; “Kondo no wa motte nigoto uo teumori de gortimasu—I expect the next will be more beautiful ‘The wood-carver, xeated’ with a dozen ap- prentices among his fragrant litter, knew that we were coming, and presented us each with a large sugar-figured cake in apretty box. Yet it take yo Dress Improvers Downed. Paris Dispatch to the London Daily Telegraph. Ladies" dress improvers are, according to an said to have been lately ¢ academies of fashion, to be future to the limbo of It eppears that the articles mn. efter having served the purpose heir e for a considerable peri e been cond: mned became they spoil the try of the female forma divine, Vulga: the apparently innocent and undoubtedly use- fal dress jm Jim this capital a u. the name by which those supernu- Merary seats in theaters which managers use 23 struments of torture in some houses of the drama are -d. The real : enished from scveral theaters, and the of millinery to which the same name was facetiously applied will similarly be by all those syiphs and graces who do ust want to put themscives out of the per- penéiculur. ‘he so-called dress improver. strapontin. or Lourrelet, had sometimes a fatal y to “slew” round, as sailors would say, relics of the past. in quest dy » Youngest is Hientenant-colu vi ‘Geards. His eldest sister, wife of the dake of Bedford, was lady of the bed-chamber to the queen, and later mistress of the robes. and was anccecded by the Hnchess of Buccleugh. the pres- ent mistress. Lis second sister was the wife of the second marquis of ary, the father of mi 0 yearsafter " the mt of Nis Benth so obe married the prover oat at Derby, and is one of the leaders of London se- ciety. as a peer oad “will cz approaching season is the réturm of Mrs. Har- riet Lane Johnston, the niece of James Buch- onan end pre idmg lady of the Exc utive Man- sien during his administration. Mr ; ‘fs | charming owner, and tha’ to impart of lopsidediss to its i he wonder, therefore. is the steapoutive were not eve ted long ago, ‘The number of these articles that will now be thrown on the market will encile those collectors of curios who organize museums containing the slippers of dauseuses aud other knickkmacks of the sort to add interesting objects to their collections. preci een ‘The New York Produce Exchange board managers has authorized the gratuity fund offer e reward of $5,000 for tng i late counsel. Wm. R. Foster, jr. The law of Baldwin & Blackman has been comnsel to the Produc cher eae fear betes twenty- yesterda; dexthe. Br. JE, Gran died of yellow at 4 ‘The convention of locomotive weceion at Ric! adjourned | the “Tam very poor,” he said with a smile, “for | Wood-carving is out of fashion now. Nobody | builds beautifal Japanese houses any more.” He had just been so fortunate, however, as to | get a commission for a number of pierced ven- | tilating friezes for the new palace. and one of } these he showed to us nearly completed—an | quisitely graceful design of flowers and fiy- | c storks. If rich English -and Americans | only knew for what t work for their mansions. far more beautifal | than they could get elsewhere for ten times— | Yes, fifty times the cost, he would not be poor | 8. | LACQUER MAKING. | The most interesting and elaborate process is | lacquer making, and its results, both new and , old, form a majority of the art-products of Japan, as it has been the most characteristic ‘snd popular Japanese art for 1,500 or 2,000 years. It is 40 elaborate only the most meager outline generally a tray, a box or made in thin white carpenters can make suc! are covered with m thin coat of lacquer, leer ine ‘ewnesyere, . Baus x accretly pro is stretched distant copy. ‘This is then polished down with | ki | tled, and it is easy for Japanese and foreigners to work in_partnershi tre nity artificers and the devel tion of this national ip. there produce very little in amount, that by those on the apped up cagecly spot. the producers remain ideas are the same from generation to genera- tion. But in such fields as wood-carving for | house decoration, the making of fine furni- | ture with decorative carving, chiseling of copper and silver and gold arti- cles for the tut for b ite por ese and many other be limitless opportun to supply the western world and usefal objects, to her own education and delight. To le, the weavi | this sort made now it is necessary first who can “make to find out a man no easy task, for the ind nm only to a very you mont it, 1 da ve and finally you and months before saw a silver beautifully chiseled an heavy silver after an old | amasterpiece of the silversmith’ Texp at sini between ci; these arts could ‘be brough izttion, direeted by a comp tern needs and prefere iB ct lett absolutely fr heir own profitable tha ous firm hes grown up it Chinese workmen, Y that the Japanese would do nger, of course, in such a scheme, the genius of the Japanese artificer to resist the ces of even a distant approach tory system, It will be an interesting probiem may nov be able fi to watch, Su SEE RS BOOKS OF THE AMERICAN WEATHER: A a Tornadons, etc, gravings and 24 Charts, '. GREELY, Chief Signal Officer, Now York. Dodd, Mead & Co.’ Washi Robert Beall. PANSIES FOR THOUGHTS, From the Writ ‘of Pansy—Mns. R.-G. ALDEN. Compiled and arranged with an appropriate text for cach vingston. Boston: D. Lothrop day, by Grace Lt &00. THE BATTLE OF THE SWASH TURE OF CANADA. « York: Charles ‘T. ton: Wm. Ballantyne & Son. THE LOYAL MOUNTAINEERS By Thowas WiLuaM Hues, 8.7.D. Knox- ville, ‘‘enn.: Ogden Brothers & Co.” Washing- toa: ‘Wm. Ballantyne & Son. THE MASTER OF RATHKELL' HAWLKY SMART, author of & Co. THE ‘TON by @., aus THE ADMIRABLE LADY BIDDY FANE. By New York: Cassell & FRANK BaKnErr. Washington: brentano’s. GOOD MANNERS. Metropolitan Serles.] New York! ho Butterker Pal ishing Co. : LA RRVE. A Novel. By Ewtte Zota. Philadel phia: T. B. Peterson & Broth mely interesting and profitable opportu- for the proper organization of lopment and direc. ngings and curtains, the making elain articles for table service— lual artificers are small circle; then oa have to teach him exactly wh tes-po tistic inspirations, both e the g et for furniture alone is 50 ex- large and prosper- Shang is t this is on Popular Exposition of the Phenomena of the Weather, including Chap- ters on fiot and Cold Waves, Dillinguam. Washing: “struck Down,”etc. New York: D. Appleton ISHING HISTORY OF TROY TOWN. ers. WAKZ. Volume Y. June-November, ed inward con- ms tempt yf to be anj| 3. And ‘spapers, ng grateful for will be an ex- these At. pres- poor and their the casting and | of splendid | directions there ities for Japan with beanti ng of of all it— get any t it is have to wait you can get t the other id beaten out of Chinese deaign— art. Butwhen | bio pets one or- iguer, | 4, and follow’ out Japan The | to iners. employing one Of the things | infinitely better. rading in- the face KY Nonmax, WEEK. Alzzards, Hat etc. Iustrated AND THE CAP- Samvri Baxro: OF TENNESSEE. A Novel. By ‘A False Start, Co. | coat are plain—pockets bein | made up of one mater ‘range, of course, in trimmings, But many of | happy use, whic! schieve, Fashion has been overshadowed for some time past by sense, by hygicnie, by prac- tical ideas, by the effart on the part of workers to niake themselves, their notions and necessi- ties stand for fashion. We have now a very large and constantly in- eredsing class whose wealth is not only fabulous in amount, but keeps constantly multiplying. To these people, in this new world, all luxuri- ous experiences are fresh and fascinating. The tich American has become the synonym in all countries for the fabled Crassus, who could ac- complish apparent impossibi He sails up the “Nile in a “house-boat’ ‘Thames; he floats down the Thames in an In- dian canoe covered with Eastern rugs; he wears the Tartan and a “‘deer-stalker” in Scot- land, the furred robe of a native in Russia, the conventional cloth and cut of « Bond street tailor in London, and he brings them ail to Amorica, with ways and habits and taste icked up in the four quarters of the globe. to 0 grafted upon the old Puritan or Celtic stock and build up the great race that is to be. AS THE MEN ARE, 80 ARE THE WOMEN: only moro so in certain directions, Their trunks are filled with ababel of sounds and voices, recalling the glary of Venice, the:days of Jorepizine mingling: with ‘the tailor-made tone of today: ‘The’ tri-color with wide lap- pels nd three -huge “buttons on the short vaisted front of its coat, sitsdown on’ gilded chairs and sofas with Malmaison brocade, and pokes the eighteenth century ‘fire with bras cast in Louis XIV molds, It iaall a dream of enchantment to be able to do it. We have revd our stories. But to live them! and in this prosaic age, too, Is it surprising that fashion is illusive, when it has so much to draw from; cr that it is at once the most picturesque and charming, the most capricious and way ward, the most varied and the most limited force in existence? Tor while it draws in turn from all the world, itis recognizable only by the distinctness with which a certain mood is accentuated, bE AL OF THE DRESS OF NAPOLEON'S COURT. This season, the novelty is the Directoire coat; the adaptation of the dress of the empire to more modern ideas, and the hat with sweep- in; nes, in place of the stiff, little, upright wings and ornaments, A typical suit has a straight skirt of fawn grey cloth, braided in front in shades of fawn and brown. The Direc- toire coat is cut as a redingcote, short across the frout, which opens upon the braided por- tion of the vkirt, and shews also the band of beaver fur across tue bottom, ‘he sides of the optional—2nd the wide, pointed resers turned buck from th front are faced with far, and shew a ided vest with high collar to match kirt. A variation from this consists of what is called the “Medici” collar, which can be worn outstanding and shewing the fur from the inside or laid flat, Tho front of the coat, | below the revers to the waist line is double- | which is most serious of all andleast successful breasted, or has that effect, and is fastened iti: three large carved mother-of-pearl or oxy- dised buttons, The Directoire coat is a very adaptable little | garment; useful as a walking jacket, yet ele-| of amusement, it being a dull show, in \ gu ough. in the proper materials and with certain conventional modifications, for formal dinners and the evening wear of matrons. The Empire” gown is more youthful. It is usually le in soft silk, with full, crossed, surplice t, showing a pointed front of lace or em- broidery and narrow breadth to match, in front t. The bodice is cut the natural Jength, but it is somewhat shortened in ap- pearance by the full, soft sash, which is knotted or tied at the sides and hangs down in two long, unequal ends. ‘This style is quite as pretty made in thin, fine wool as silk, with silken sash and embroidery upon the wool, and is then not at all expensive. Simple gowns ia] and in one color are always more youthfal in appearance than those that are combined of two or more stuffs or colors; but with lace skirts or thin tissues draped over silk, it is still the fashion to make a firm, undraped bodice of the richer material of the dress, or of a still handsomer fabric in the same color, than to use the thin ailk and cover or drape it with lace like the skirt, as formerly. ‘The lovely tints in evening failles jend themseWwes charmingly to the formation of such bodices, and can be matched perfectly in the less expensive silk for the skirt, but not always in wool. Flowers from one shoul- der, crossing the bodice and trailing off upon the side of the skirt, are used; but if they are not of the best make and artistically arranged they are better omitted and a sash substituted, THE ACCORD OF COLOR IX DRESS SCHEMES. An important feature of present fas one that it is necessary to keep in mind, relation of trimming and all the accessories of the toilet to the body part of it. Color strikes the key-note; and nothing mest be allowed to interfere with whatiscalled the general scheme, Bunches of roses have disappeared from the corsage borders, and iasses of dead white lace from black and colored dresses, and embroid. jetted ornaments, and color lines or sug- gestions are substituted. Many people desire how to make a black dress dre: very best way is to put the prin- part of the cost the “silk, ve that rich, the form simplo, and add a litt tle real thread ince to the neck and sleeves, and if likod, in j2bot form, to the sides of a nar | y vest front,” The usual mode is to trim a cheap silk with cheap jet, the most common form of common-place. "It is a less vulgar, be- cause less showy method, however, than to put a cheap, coarse Ince over a color and in con- junction with « common cheap silk. “When ack i a color, and in conjune- i Il the material should be of such quality as will bear examination and impart to them an air of refinement, If jetis used it should be handsome, but it is better employed upon fine cashmnere than cheap silk, cate h sili does not require it, FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC FURS, The furs of the present season are in great variety, but the preference is for the deep, long-haired brown, gray and silver fox furs, Chinchilla, once so fashionable, seems to be relegated by common consent to children and elderly ladies, Young women profer seal and bekver; and the married, who can afford to in- dnige thoir tastes, the fox furs, lynx and seal for a permanent investment, There is greater these, to wh hi py es names are at- tached, are the pro luct of domestic animals; a rids us of many pests, or at least prevents their repid multiplication.” It is dangerous, however, to make a fashion in any one far, "The American mink acquired an abnormal value in this way. Roso to inflation, then sunk almost to ‘extinction, and. is | now never even inquired for. ‘Seal has | popularly taken its place, but the cost always limits the demand and confines it to garments and articles — which arg insures | rather” than 0 Furred linings are more distinguished just now than farred outsides, Seal skin is the only fur that is used for cloaks, coats, mantels, and jackets; and this in the same way that India Shawls are still a purchase, as an always good and highly respectable thing to have on hand. For very rich and fashionable , ¥plendid brocadea, velvet upon which the broidorer’s art ‘can be exercised, even handsome cloths are preferred, with | linings of plush or i down, and wide collars and borders of rich fur | which may be changed or removed. Tho style | and fashion of some of these wraps recall all | magnificence. the old Venetian traditions of F found very comfortable. Cushi those brilliant tours de force which of late years | favorite gift this year, for one cannot have too we have not given it credit for the power to | ™8ny- ‘taken from the | for mueilage and ink-erasers should defeat Cloveland on election day? If a current queer story is to be believed (and [ candidly confess will be a lady of plump and petite figure, whose “sho curls clustered around a face which ‘was ‘very interesting if not strictly handsome. This young lady is Miss Ethel Sprague, whose mother, Mra, Kate Chase Sprague, camo to this | city from Washington last week, Wednesday, to place her daughter in Mr. Sargent's school. She passed the entrance examination with great credit, and from the enthusiasm with which she ente her and the atte details I should bevy of young ladies to achiev career. “In dramatic art, as well as in every other profession and trade, it is close attention and perseverance that count rather than those | indefinite qualities supposed to be “born” in | one, There is much of interest in the everyday work of New York's two schools of acting, Mr. Sargent’s aud the Madison Square school. pre sided over by Dion Bouctcoult, and I will give Tue Evestxa Stan readers by and by a de. scription of the routine work and methods of these two imstitutions. Juxxy Joye. re ‘. A NEW YORKER’S NOTES, Mucilage and Ink-Erasers to Influence the Presidential Election. THE FATAL LACK OF JINGLE IN “THE YROMEX OF THE GUARD"—A WASHINOTON Boy's STAGE © ‘RECL—I8 MRS, BLAINE, JE., TOGO ON THE STAGE? --ETHEL SPRAGUE IN A DRAMATIC SCHOOL, Corf-spondence of Tar EVeNtne Stan. New Yorx, November 2. Wouldn't it be queer if a consuming appetite I don't believe it), such an appetite may eaail do the job. The appetite aforesaid was en- couraged by one Costigan, who had the con- tract for the New York city printing, and whose vouchers for seventy-five ink-erasers for one clerk, 136 bottles of mucilage for another clerk, and like liberal quantities of stationery for other clerks, were signed by the mayor, the controller and the corporation counsel in big bundles at a time, and Mr. Costigan got the money for them. ‘The: story says that half of Costigan’s doings, and ‘wonsiderable of | the democratic municipal carelessness, have not yet been made public, but that the full details of the embarrassing circumstances arc known to leading republicans, who have secured any quantity of local democratic votes for Harrison in return for keeping mum about. facte which would work disastrously to Mr. Hewitt’s ele tion, It is certainly true that the presidential élection may be decided right here in New York city, so if the story is true its con quences may be as powerful as they are alleged tobe, The republicans could almost certainly elect Erhardt mayor if they cared to now that there are so many splits among their oppo- nents, but they seem 80 ready to trade local power for the national result that Mr. Erhardt is recognized as a defeated candidate if the mucilage story is true. . . “The Yeomen of the “Guard,” Gilbert and Sullivan's new opera at the Casino, is a disap- pointment, as you have already heard. Gil- bert's libretto has com firme mages hint of the jingle and jollity of his earlier works, and most of his wit in “The Yeomen” is reminis- cent. Sullivan's music is considerably more ambitious than anything he has heretofore done, and in this very fact lies one cause of the | dissppointment, It is sad to say it, but the popular liking for Sullivan's music has been inverse ratio to its strietly critical worth. Pinafore,” all jingle, is Sulli ; “Patience,” mostly jingle. » e Pirates of Penzance,” with littie ji thir: janthe,” mostly serious, fourth: Sorcerer,” almost wholly serious, fifth, and so on through “Princess Ida” to “Tho Yeomen,” 934 F St. N. W. ‘We conduct the Pisno and Organ business in all ite Henn fayseabie tere : WS rent nox, in City or Conntry, for any lepeth of the decired, take Ohi — aaa sent for New Qnes, Deut Pisnes apd Onrans, with the option , end <ive careful atiention to Tuaiug apd EES > Sgs8 MEK und the Pores euperiot HAY MNTON Pucson. Ipstruments for Fentapd sold ou lustaluuenta, We offer thy Danesiua in theelty. = “oes aia 3.8. MILLS ON THE KRAKAUER PI Sind tiem exceulent in every perticulsr. G. H. KUHN, Genoral Agent, Also for “Pease” Pianos and Burdett Organs. _se15-6m = 407 10th at. ALLET & vis’ PIANO ROOMS ARE NOW open tor Pe rede. Choice lot of Pianos for sale gud reut. Special sale to make chanies | Barguine BOL SUMNER S21 test TANG fe NE 1UCH. WORKMANSHIP XD DURABILITY. Special attention ot )urchasers “New Artistic Styles,” _ HIGHEST DEK 4 promivent makes at elipries, $PASOB POR EEN ‘ coh, PLAS ‘ ‘Wal, KNABL, & CO. my! su T. S17 Market Space of all, Two things will make Mr. Rudolph Aronson’ investment in the opera a success, however, One is the popularity of the Casino asa piace d, that won't fill this pretty theater for a ten weeks’ ran, and the other is the f: phat Gil- bert and Sullivan are the fashion, and it is the proper thing for everybody to seo every opera they manufacture. If you gan only be in the fashion you may be as or uninteresting as possible, Z . And speaking of fashion as an element it tendance at theaters, it counted huge Coquelin-Hading performances here. vastly amusedat the people who tried to appear engrossed in the French jokes of Mascarille, aud the French pathos of Frou-Frou, and who made frantic efforts to read their books of the play and look at the stage at the same time. It is a positive fact that when the curtain felleach night upon the last act, unconscious sighs of relief could be heard from all of the house. The dear people who attended the per- formances, because it was the proper thing. bad imply seerificed their comfort and enduredtwo hours and a half of boredom for fashion’s sake. Userecevexten Arrractios: OVER A MILLION DISTRIBUTED, LOUISIANA STATE LOTTERY COMPANY. ‘of the present State Constitution in 1870, ‘erwiveliuiue poplars GRAND EXTRAORDINARY DRAWINGS take Place Bemi-An1 ran (June and December), and its GRAND SINGLE NUMBER DRAWINGS take place ob cach of the other ten months ip the year, and are all drawn in public, at the Academy Music, New ‘Orleans, La. “We do hereby certify that we auperviae the arrange. menta For all the monthly and semeAnnual Drawcingred The Lenwava Stute Lottery Company, and in. person inane and contros the briwinos themceiees. and. that (he same are conducted with himesty, 'airness and in (gon farth toward at yeartves, and we authorise the Come tae th eith ftc-atmilee of our tached, tn te adcertioimentas” vans A young Washingtonian, in whom I have taken considerable interest, is winning his way to fame in the histrionic profession. Four years ago Mr. Tim Murphy made his debut on the National Theator stage, in Washington, at an Elks’ benefit performance, in which he did clever imitations of distinguished actors. He showed such appreciation of nice points in churacter that I predicted success for im as a comedian in certain lines, Two years later he came to New York with the determina- tion to adopt the stage asa profession. He found it a struggle even to get a start, as so many other actors have found it, but he was Prepured to struggle as so many other would-be actors are not, He wasn't the sort of chap that thinks he is cut out to play Hamiet or Bob Acres ata jump. ‘Tim was sure he couldn't, but he meant to be able to do the most famous comedy roles some day, and meantime he took the first chance that came along, which happened to be mall job at the Comedy Theater (now Dock- stader's) with a variety troupe, giving imite- tions o? McCullough, Raymond, John Mackay and others, Tim kept his and ears wide open, didn't lose a point in the show busi and just worked right along from one another, doing the best he ki always ready to go on and dos turn at a benefit, which helped him with the public and widened Commissioners We, Banks and Bankers will al priscsaranen in fhe Lewtetann State Lotteries eich: | nay be preented at oure-unters. Biphate UNSKCX, Brew. ene at A, BALDWIN, Pres. New Orleans National Baik, CARL 'KOMS; Pres. Cuion National Bank: GRAND MONTHLY DRAWING IN THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC, NEW ORLEANS, ‘TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 1888, CAPITAL PRIZE, @2300,000. 100,000 Tickets at ‘Twenty Dollare cach: Halves €10; Quarters, ¢5; Tenths, 82; Tweutieths, 1. LIST OF PRIZES. 1 PRIZE OF @300.000 1 PHEE OF *Yo0.000 00 | 50.000 60,000 | — eats ’ ) Caneers: Convers: Canrerse: We are daily reeciving our Pall supply of BIGELOW, LOWELL & NARTYORD WILTON CARPETS, BODT SSEES, MOQUETS, VELVETS, TAPESTRIES, THRER-PLAB INGHAING, and AKT SQUARES, RUGS, MATS, CURTAINS, and DRAPINGS in great variety. An inspection of our stock is solicited. 25m HOOK, BEO. & OO, 1826 Fat, JOR A FIRST-CLASS ue. Foes ones Baars B (Pormverty with Pt. orwerty with PWanacn Hiss & Go.), WALL Farris We have ‘jouat Hhaonats thee suru teers earn Tapers na fron Te 80. Hoshi ase, $ork uatwuterd ret heen. Fron Vaivaieg Tintin « apes tatey pennies 7th street sare peas tian cus . myt RATLROADSs keaT TEXNSVL ante ORD WH STEIL MAILS. MAUAI ie rter Raves NASHUA TUN. PROM Stari CENER SIXTH AND. by rheets Ae Th For, ttabung amd the Wert, Chicago Lin: n Wet itnajoa ¢ ‘D0 am. dar No ROUTE ND SOUTHWEST. DUD sc x AAT bg nd Prone ‘daly Peat isburg with thre A Mengphis. decltic is. for Pittabame AND POTOMAC RAILROAD, Kocheater. daily: for Boat. sey Satianday,. 10 4K) 9, Sleeping Gaur Washington to koches Lock Raven, and Eltuira, at) 50a, 20, 9-00, 11-00. and band 11 Putnam, Pe daily.exoejt Sunday, aud 34d pe mite Cas ROME Chase, 00 pm. ever For Brooklyn, N. ¥..all through trains comaect hi. Jor. atndiine fey CHey with boate ibe ¥ yg double cet tract rh For Pintadelphia, 100, sna a2 nd 1120p... On Suns 00, 4.f0, 6-00.20, 1 ¥ 00, 11-40 & (00, 4:10, 6.400, 10-00 aud Ui 4 all Parlor Care, 94: with Dining 40am, 00. exer) For Aunayeline 720 and #00 agn., 12 Bom, daily, exoupt Sunday. 4:20 pan. ALEXANDETIA A! BAN, AND RAILROAD, Por Alexandria, 6 12°04 noon: 36.08, dy 5 8 ta Aconsnmodatton f Por Kichwead id vis Routh. oe. Yo ‘and 6°00 p. Gally. except bandas ‘Traina leave Aloxamdtts at the often, northeast com ne aft for the checking of san or the chee rly ad een via, Newark, ‘Wiinington, 30 a, *p. tu, dally, exvvrons petits between Baltimore and po amand t3 15 p. ‘aod takermedinte’ oiute, $7.30 em, £10-00 pis Pyarch train leave Washington on Sunday « 1:15 p.m, stopping at sil stations on Metsopulltan 20 2.10 nd 4 ree ally oS Leal o Dam, trom 2 isbure daily 3's a Gooner | And Wilmington, 2-50, A ns van. daily, and 12-15 an. Sundays mins Jeave Baltimore for 6.80, 3°25, 9500,0-05, 10-00: (eam pew 1 15, 8700, 9°10, Bob. 8 i “Daily, {Sundays onl checked at hotels and rea Heke" ticket offers, G1 nad 50K Painve LF ASO. Sot a CHAS 0. ON: ville. +Bxoey Gen, Prom Aste, ] AF — between Kuoxv lottery, and i. iL Or his acquaintance with actors and re. At ~ 190-000 | Ioan. “alten itactou to New Orieana. length he became known and talked about, and | “TT'24 A. M—-Past Mail Dolly for: Warrenton these. now he is holding a responsible position ina responsible company, and is one of the very cleverest of the clever people in the troupe. Tim however, as he hasn't by any means reached the point his ambition is aiming for. At present he divides the comedy honors with les Reed, an old favorite in nogro minstrelsy, in Hoyt's successful “Brass Monkey,” at the Bijou ‘Theater. : 5 Some day Washington is gding te be very Proud of Mr. Tim Murphy, comedian, Mr. John W. Albangh, who is well known in your town, has his spectacular “Midsummer Night's Dream” at the Star Theater in New York this week, and judging from the packed houses there Monday and Tuesday nights, the two evenings on which I took it in piecemeal, he will go away next week a big winner. He hee solved for me the, mystery of Wilton Lac~ kaye’s double, to which I alluded some weeks ago. Mr. Lackaye played Demetrius in Mr. Albaugh’s company until the Chicago engage- ment, when he left to join Rose 50,000 | 20,000 | 100228, do, 100 are. 3,134 amounting to. 81,054,800 theres tickle Semen CS ‘ino eno ene aetred rhis teritly bs tae’ olersagsans cheery Sistine yous reabtace, with Wats, Quanty aise saat Nuwber. More raptd return mail delivery will be as- — your enclosing an Euvelope bearing your full oR ber eo oi Y (at oar expense) tw" A. DAUPHIN, = "Now onsing, La, 4 tree agitate mn MEW ORLEANS MATEQRAL BANK, ’ REMEMBER that the presence of Generals Beauro- gard und Early, who ero in chenge of the drawings, is ‘& cuarantee of ebsolute fairness aud integrity, that the chances are al] equal, and that no one can possibly di- Vine what number will draw « prize. “REMEMBER also, that the payment of prizes is GUARANTEED BY FOUR NATIONAL BANES of New There ie no-one mere heonly alive to the | Ccissns, and the theta ese sigued ty the Premaant af value of notoriety than the society amateur contemplating the stage as a means to achieve fame and fortune, was Mrs. Ye who went into tho business on the notoriety of her beauty and the story that she had been suf- ficiently chummy with the Prince of Wales to ico-cream down his back. Of late the draw: fe i Hast i Hf Hi i till on the lookout for something better, 7 iP wd | don ‘with Jota alle, Gomdubeville, Stations Ches & Miu’ houte, Lyne jocks Moubt, Danville and Stacione be: geen Layette gpd Belle Urectsinans hack, Charlotte, Coline, Atiaita, dienatag” ham, Montcom t California, Pa hawt cummte- Rlespars Monuramers "wo New '(r- fF Slespers for Birmituhar, y and. Pablinan sleeper Danvihs to wba ghd Solid trains Washington to aul ‘not for C. & O. route jwiute Sunidaye. 2: P.M Day, Sunday, for Manassa Pes Wertern Daily for Warrenton, fie, Leuiwvilie, Chnciunett Pullman Slerpers apd bolt Louisvilie, aim, ees mefee a toe ;Mewphis, Little 7 — ide an all southwestern poise, Daily fe - we RS er Pa, ane ie me ulnar Conca ne Vie Atlanta end Mont Weshingion to August, nd Oko dean ave ands leans and iOS Ai. Dually and 1 38 re “14 1 eerelgrasingd jaxhington & 30 proact towiive froan the Seruth via Chartte, Dap Shir aater 3 iy ocd at 9:87 AM. at 940 : gar rhrerked a ax. {$00 Pea Palironds Oth and Bate San ke TAYLOR.