Evening Star Newspaper, August 4, 1888, Page 6

LDS CAPITAL PARIS" REAL AND ROMANTIC DECADENCE IN ARTISTIC FRODUCTION—PAMISIAN PRESTIGE DEPENDENT UPON YOREION SCFPORT—PEENCH SUPERIORITY IN TASTE AND BCONOMY—EXTRAVAGANT AMERICANS, (From Our Own Correspondent} Panis, JUy 2% 1888, ‘There {s no more extraordinary sight im the world than that presented by oue of the great shops of Paris, itis a small world, which in the morning is neat and orderly. ‘The departments regularly laid out, stocked, and the goods arz, ranged to attract customers. Gradually tt begins t fll; morning customers saunter Joisurely through; look, examine, buy at theirease and with deliberation. “After 22 o'clock—the hour for de- juener, OF mid-day breaktast—the crowd increases, the rush begins. If it 1s an “occasion,” or day when prices are marked down tm special depart- ments, and nearly always :t 13 an occasion of some Kind of otuer, the excitement s doubled, English, ‘Freneh and Americans jostic each other, the jar g of tungues Is indeseribable, the attempts to Secure a coveted prize frantic, and attempts to discriminate between the desirable and the unde. Sirabie abortive. Sometimes a dry goods house ‘Will have an outdoor occasion. Passing one the other day, sbout 3 in the afternoon, a crowd of Women, Which extended the entire length of the front of the establisument—about a New York Dioek—attractea attention. It was composed Mainly of Uke poorer, laboring classes of women. rardly One ¥ ponnet, but all were gesticulat- ng Violently and eagerly pulling apart masses of dress: goods, ui nade-up sacques, blouse watsts and "un e exposed ‘outside ked in j ures, The uoder- ‘Wear Was hand-made, tucked neatly and button- Role stitched upon the edze of the scant rufites, It Was not fine and it was not very clean and it was one up in bundles of three garments each; but it Was well made and well cut, the drawers open ides aud drawn tn with tap for sale and m: st. 1 would Wash inio a ve mad be du point with the poor. Tne “pan! centimes Pachiss conte uch as that surety to make, ehemises and night resses were fro to francs, 25 ce THE DRESS MATERIALS were of irregular lengths and excellent quality, Dut varied in kind. ‘There were colored dress flan— els, soft finished serges, fine crepe cloths and nun’s vellings, narrow-striped and spotted wools in Diack and elegant shades of coior—gray aud peacock biue, bronze brown, dark bottle and olive greens and others. They” were wide, and the evs ranged froma 9 ceulimes per mever—several ches more than a yard— 5 conmmes he meter; the first being he second 30 cents; andother prices intermediate betwe two. "They were act ‘oods that the way frou50 cents yard in New York; bat they Were remnants, and might therefore b subject to yome reduction, - Still, materials of such quality are rai ld in remnants with us; and AU must be remembered Unt as for the “i Ineter, which t# coustus ore than our yard, and that in many of these remnants was abun- Gant stuff for adress. Oue could have picked out @ hundred pieces every Way desirable, if Uney could have been utllt yinpathized the crowd of nen, many hikiren hanging to their skirts, and uly reckoning the cost, wet g the softness and talking loudly, after the man- Ref of their class. PAWIS KEAL AND ROMANTIC. “I never Was so disappointed in my life as In the ‘Working women of Puri,” remarked one lady, an American, of course. “I had heardsomuch about the taste of Paris that I thought even the shop- giris and women tn the streets would show it in Supertor neatuess and style in their clothes, but They don’t look as nice as the Working women we see at home.” Another lady sald: “{ am so dis- appointed; I always thought of Paris asa.sort of S.orittea city, where every ihing would be found that was most beautiful Ihave only been here we days, it 1s true, but I have been to the Bon Marche And the Shops of the Louvre, and I Was not tempted to buy tn the least.” Naturally twodays was not much in which to discover the Deauty of Paris, nor are the shops of the Bon Marche and the Louvre the places iu Which to fad Ue costly novelties thal conter the prestige of Supreme fashion and taste upon acity. There 1s, however, an immense difference between the Paris of to-day and the Paris of even ten or fi. teen yearsage. ‘Then the working women had Rot begun tw adopt the prevailing style. They Dada neat and practical dress of their own, not ‘the peasant dress, Lut simple in construction "and free from cheap trimming and attempts at Sarapery.” Now their dress is cut after paper PAteFR Modes, is cheaply furbelowed and soon shabby. "The trim neatness and accuracy of cut has given place to attempts at finery, wich cannot be renewed often euough for cleanliness, nd whicis marks the decline in taste, wate has een neg! OF not cultivated i the right direction. “ CUT AND PATIENCE. ‘There ts now little of originality, for there 1s no one to stimulate, or pay for experimental efforts, ‘uch as are needed for the development of original and beautiul ideas, even in dress. ‘The ft of the Fruucu dressmaker is still the best ia the world; Dut it Would cease to ve so if it were not for her Russian, Amertean, English and German custo- mers. ‘The Eoglish, Lowever, are fast acquiring a of their own. It thelr knowledge of torm nd delicacy of touch were equal to their su ‘Uveness, their courage aud their originality they would quicaly obtain supremacy; but the French have two sources of continued ‘control; one is, a ut Which is instinctively good, which is easy upon ‘the head of the body, which does not press or disturb, yet Mts like a glove, shapes the ne outlines of a beautiful form and conceals, ore of less, the defects of a poor one. The other 48 patience in detail, quantity, and thoroughness of Workmanship, and command of labor at prices ‘Wat dety competition. Such work as is putin Parts upon ordinary garments swith us out of the Power of the majority, and 1s a perpetual source ‘Of comfort and satistiction. We have been ac- eustomed to think that we could beat the world Mcotton goods aud garments, and so we can in the raw material But we fail in the case of its parauion, and when We attempt cheap work it EXvrucat. "We only achieve good! cut it nent ‘and durability by paying enormous prices. Suort Underskiris of white cotton are marked re at from 3 franes, 10 centimes, to-4 francs (25, 6%, and $5 cents). Fur similar prices one may find’ very common, short White skirts at Lome. But thes? area little longer, a more practical length for grown women. They are made of a serviceable, Barrow-striped long cloth, aud fnisued with & ruffle, cut out upon the edge, and worked With a thick, deep button-hole sutch, Tne secoud Piece has several rows of embroidered dots or SpAgs above the Dutton-hole stitch. {admire the towels in my room at my pension. They are hot Hine, but they are a soft, absorbent, honey-comb Petlern, such as we buy in Amefica for §3 per Gozen. “but they are each outlined with a large initial tm red, or red and biue, and I admire iy landiady’s tndustry and housewitery care, in adding this ornamental and protective letter to every Lowel used in her great establishment. when I go to the Bon Marche I fad these sane towels in bundles of aduzen each, embroidered With every letter in the alpuabet and for sale at Six francs, ninety-five centimes the dozen ($1.39) It J only Ead them at home, 1 think. ‘Not souuch Decause of the difference in price—because where Bitses are low somebody sutters—but because of Vexture and the effecuve lettering. EXTRAVAGANT AMERICANS, Om the other hand, rich women and actresses come here from all over the world with orders for toe most extravagant tollets. A wedding dress qmade recently for an American oride cost 10,000 fraucs—$2,000 for the dress alone. 1t was made and desizzed by a modiste who has had the honor of making some garments for Mrs, Cleveland, who 4s, however, uot ui all so extravagant; and she 1s BOW Makias some beautiful costumes one of Roa red shk fora young lady of Brooklyn, N ard pelisses of changeable stik, which go to C land, © The red siik gowu has vest and wide Sash frout of Tull pink crepe de chine, and a sash Of the same 1s knotted on the side over the skin Which is simply draped upon the ‘front. Many. American wouwen ate Very much dissatist Cause the shirts ot the dncsocs shows bake eee Modistes are so nearly straight, and because tuey have seen before nearly ail Uacre is of design oS ded to gUWnS aud sarments, expected,” they say, “sometuing new ia Parla” “yet they not wear the Derectoire coat Or the short-watsted dress of the ive upon any consideration, ‘Thetr “new” ung must be both convenuonal and common p id 16 MUSE have been for such that “drapery” was Invented, and the eternal sect Saw movement Which marks the ordinary changes an What ts called fashion from one year toanotine 4s Worth once remarxed, “There Is a class of ladies Who are not s0 particular about what they get as hat it shail be diferent from what they have had Before.” After all, differences tn effect are $0 much a imatter of detail, of touches, of an eye to an attic Ue result, that Une best modistes rarely lan a cos ‘Wume entirely beforehand; they leave the flaish to be decided after foundations bave been laid and construct.ou taken place. TUS WORK-KOOMS OF GREAT MODISTES & no longer called shops, but studios, ateders; tor the combinations, forms, colors and the ‘Successful acquisition of aa harmonious tone or ‘Waote, are only obtained by an artist's juallties— aptitude, industry, perseverence, suill all een i blending of shades‘and colors, particularly requires these qualifications: and usually there ls one person in an establish: Inent—Dot always its head—who, without ba able to work in detatl, can detect uuerringly & ‘The other ut kinds of embroidered or: be applied to a nich veivet, with an ubdertove of @olor. She discarded three or for os ‘aAded vo the remaining one a point of ligane eveioped the almost Invisibie tone, and Dromces But | ‘they are used as eyes, or to produce certain effects OF spectal parts of adesign Of course they Te- quire the Investinent of capital and lavolye con iderable risk, that is, greater risk than the use of common beads and tinsel; naturally also they are reserved for special orders and executed by ex- Rert workers trom original and attractive designs, here is no end to he possibilities in the execu- Yon of lace and embroidery, aud it seems as if We gould not get beyond these’ two potent allies In the construction of beautiful and costiy dress. It 4s always oue or the other or both that puts the fnal toucheson any garment of unusual elegance CHARACTERISTIC COSTUMES. The finest work in Parts, the original and most Deautiful designs, are all done to order. They are Rot on exhidition. Once in a while it 1s possible {© find and purchase something that bas been used as a model at a comparatively low price, but ‘these are accidents, not to be relied upon. If you Order, and most Americans do who have money to spend and not much time, you pay a which uough less than cor the samo thing foiported into New York, 1s, to those who come from remote dis- tricts and” who are not accustomed to city exac- tous, high and even extortionate. But is always one thing to be considered, for high prices You get tue best materials—velvet that Is velvet, Slik “that is silks, fur that 1s fur, lace that 38, if not hand-made, fine, of all silk ahd embroidery put on the material with the Reedie, not turned off im gross by machine, There is also a difference, very marked, for those }iho have had experience enough to appreciate It, In cost of costumes bought at such houses as Emile Pasquiers and a corresponding house—it Such existed in America. IU 1s house that makes largely for French ladies of the best class, and a Tobe recently shown, to be worn by a French mother on the occasion of her daughter's be- trothal, was in the best possible taste. It was of Striped'satin and moire antique, in & pale shade of heliotrope. ‘The narrow front breadth, brought toa point at the waist, was of plain satin (exact shade) embroidered in arabesques, with silk cords and beads 1a mulberry, atuber and garnet. A dee pointed gore of e1abroidered satin was 1atrod into the Lop of the sleeves, which were shaped and descended below the elbow, and a fichu of Flan- ders lace was draped upon the pointed bodice, It was a strictly conventional costume, quiet but Tich, and in excellent taste. ‘The daughter's cos tume was pale pink silk, in a soft make of faille, with long front drapery of the same shade in pink erepe-de-chine, caugit upon both sides with waite inoire ribbon, the ribbon forming a large butterfly bow ou one side and loops and ends on the other. ‘The bodice Was ‘alow surpiice, the sleeves short; tuere Was no edging of lace “or tulle, but there Were abundant silk and lace quillings on the interior edge of the skirt. One tuing French gitis never do, and that 1s, wear artificial flowers in bunches upon thelr shoulders or any part of their dress. Even the tulle dresses powdered with vio- lets or rose lvaves would only be worn by young very yay married women. Of two dresses de by Madame Pasquier for a well-known New ork lady, one Was of fawn-colored cloth embrol- dered ‘in "gold and silver; the other a Mordore brown velvet made with a Directotre coat embrol- dered upon the sides of the front with shaded tea roses and worn With an embroidered satin walst- coat tn pale gold color. The skirt was plaited at the back, but hung In perfectly stralght roids, the front was draped but otuerwise plain, the long coattails narrowing toward the bottom, nearly covering the sides. “A novelty in basqués bas a back cut in a leaflike point at the sides, but Straight in the center, where it ts attached wo the fullness Of the skirt. ‘Thts shapes the back very stylishly if 1 1s well managed; and the points may be accentuated by passementerte, VELVET AND LACK THE COMING FABRICS. Velvet 13 to be the fabric of the coming season, and the coat, with embroidered walstcoat in redin- gote or Directoire form, the fashion for dinner dresses and afternoon receptions. Ewbroldery uupon velvet is done by hand, but 1t is usually ap- plied, mot often executed directly upon the gar. inent, exept upon such as are designed as well as made to order. ‘There 1s a tendency toward the shortening of the waist, because the Empire modes are in the ascendency, or at least strongly contest the place of houor with the Directoire designs. But bodices are usually cut somewhat shorter in Paris than in England or America, French women being usually short and rather stout, with shorter waists and necks than American’ and English Wouien. ‘rhe lace boa Wiici has been worn in Engiand fof two or three seasons, and been re- placed this year by the Wide and loi Ince scarts jn cream and Diack, have just found their way to Paris, and are to be seen iu profusion at the Bon Marche and ail the large shops. It 1s singular that they have not found their way to America; but they would never have been a success, for a boa in suinmer, even of lace, would hardly be bearable with the Wermom- ever’ at ninety. Cotton dresses are an English specialty. Nowhere else do they make thei at once so simply and so charmingly. In Paris they are elther negliges, fussed up with luce and rib- bons, or too formal This season, for the first me, the Parisian dressmakers have endeavored to follow Engiish models and produce a French Version of the full bodice, the belted waist and the full sleeve, ‘The last has been a dificult pill to swallow, and they would not have come to it it Worth had not set the example. As tt is, they lay the sleeves in nne folds or plaits, leaving it full only over the elbow, and they shape ayoke by flue folds also. ‘The vodice 1s not straight, but deepens av the back to a point, and the skirt f% laid in full, fine sige plaitings, and attached to its edge, in the moyenage style, the belt worn above or started trou the side seaius to hook over, with sash ends at the left of the front. AT THE BON MAKCHE. There 1s not much fashion ir Paris just now. ‘The world of Paris 1s taking its pleasure else- where; but there are crowds daily at the Bon Marehe buying gloves for 1 franc 95 centimes (39 cents) that are buttonless and very “swell” or Tegular Swedes, tn six or eigut button lengths, ‘This, of course, 18 an “occasion,” and an “occa- sion® at the Bon Marche 1s an event to all Paris. A short time since this house, which 1s more remark- able in its Internal systeui than even in its exter- nal size and complexity, had an “occasion” exclu- sively forthe sale of White goods and garments, ‘The one day’s sale netted 1,800,000 francs and Wok 100 Vans eight days to deliver. The Bon Marche feeds its own employes, 3,600, every day. Its Kitchens are a wonder, and its staff of cooks equal to those of several hotels. The whole region is a miracie of cleanliness and order, and the most perfect system, A hundred men are employed in Washing disues, and a second staff exclusively in cleaning kuives’ ‘The food 18 of the best quality and 1s cooked deilciously. The pots are huge, spbner cauldrons, the baking pans larger tia the top of an ordinary stove. Everything shines, and the glass, sliver and china would compare Will aby ordinary hotel One hundred girls are lodged in the house. Tuey each have a Tocm to themselves, Of good ‘size and very nicely Turuished. ‘They are those who haye no parents or relatives living in Paris, and Madame Boucicault Look the spac? from her owa dwelling to provide for them, Whea the problem of their proper protec. Uon presented itsel. Their wages, over and above ‘Ueir living, are obtained from the percentage on their sales; and they often save enough to provide themselves with a “dot” or marriage portion. ‘The system of the Bon Marche is unique aud the resuits & marvel. By the death of the founders the enormous business has passed into tue hands of directors, chosen by tne founders from old em- pioyes, Who in turn choose @ council, from wich rectors Will be taken to supply the place of such directors as reach the age of Iifty, ag which period Uhey retire, by the terms of the will, from active { directorsiip, but with abundant intgus. In this Way the interests are carried on pretisely the old | lines, of giving the best possible thing for the least | possible money, and Ube ewploye a share in we rewards, JENNIE JUNE. A Country Summer Pastoral, | Written by a learned scholar of the city, whose knowl. edge is derieed trom etymological luctions, rather than from actual ex perwence:) I would flee from the city’s rule and law, From its fuahion and form cut loose, And go where the strawberry «rows oh ite straw, ‘And the gooseberry grows on its goose, ‘Where the catuip-tree is climbed by the cat, ‘As sise crouches for her prey— ‘The guileless and unsuspecting rat ‘On the rattan bush at play, Twill watch at ease the saffron cow dean ea Oa eh ray in ox 0 ‘On the wp of the cowalip tree: Where the musical partridge drams on nis drum, paps ie weodcliuck chucks his wood, oe devotes the dogwood plata, Tu tue prnftive nol.tude. : Ob! Jet me drink from the moss-crown ‘That was hewn from, the primphin treet Eat muah ond milk froma rural stump, From form and fashion free; New-gatherea uush from the mushroom vine, a jk from the Te ny Senay pena ith luscious piueapple from the ping— ‘Such food as the gous ight eat And then to the whitewashed dairy I'L ‘Wher the ‘maid hastening hies; Her ruddy and voldeu-red butter to churn, Frou the muk of her butterflies ; And (11 rise at morn with the early bird, To the fragrant far-yard pass, When the farmer turns his beautiful herd Of grasshoppers out to grass, ——-oo—_____— Household Breakages, From the Chicago Horald. | generally. itis an undoubted fact ‘that, taking the city by an ui and large, the house servants desteoy by sere neg! snd looking and looking-glasses are broken, all’because of tne carelessness of Une domestic servant, and at ue-tuird of thes@ articles have jto be replenished in every family ip the course of a year. The mestic thinks it a hard pull on her deducted from her wages on this account, there 1s nothing more certain thap—if it were Rabitually exacted—she would De all the moro Eg? ‘This justice's decision shows that she 1s lable for her e: ‘and it is the: ‘Row of all housewives to inform their ‘that when break a tumbler or a plate they must ‘Written for Tax Evexixo Stas. HUNTING AND SHOOTING. Etiquette of the Fashionable Sport of England, AMERICANS’ MISUSE OF SPORTING TERMS—SHOOTING AND HUNTING NECESSARY TO THE ENGLISHMAN— MIDING AFTER THE HOUNDS—THR ETIQUETTE OF HUNTING IN ENGLAND. (Copyrighted, 1888.) Our American gentlemen who gooverto England = poylters-gad boxes,” and to enter into the life the English sportsman, often are laughed at for ‘the phraseology which they use most inappropri- ately. They should learn, It 4s, therefore, from English books that the following hints are culled, for a knowledge of sporting matters and sporting terms cannot be arrived at by intuition, neither can it be acquired from “books” only, but rather by association with those thoroughly conversant ‘With the subjeet and with whom ‘sport has formed part of their education, as it does of every English- We need only read Charles Kingsley’s novels to learn how important is hunting and shooting to every English-bred man. Even the town-bred jan loves his day on the moors. Those who have ‘00 opportunity of acquiring a knowl- edge of the subject trom personal experience can hardly fail to commit mauy and various mistakes When brought toto contact with sportsmen and ‘tueir sports. The language of the hunting-fleld 1s pecullar. A sportsman would at once dub a man SB ouhorough cockney” were be to term the ‘nounds” When out hunting ‘the dogs,” and he Would even smile coutemptuously at a lady's ignorance | were she to cali one of a pack of fox hounds a “doy.” It would also appeat laughable in the eyes of a sportsman were a gentle. man or lady to speak of a fox brush as a wtail;” and in hunting circles it would be col inore than a solecisum, 1t would amount to a crime tn the social code, wore a gentleman to shoot a fox in mistake for a hare, a mistake whi inexperienced sportsmen have been known to per- Petrate. ‘To head a fox or to halioa to afox would Sis be a great offens in the eyes of the imaster of the hounds as tn those of the fleld, A man would notask his friend if he had had “a good day's hunting,” but “whether he had had a good run, OF he Wouid ask him “where did you find,” and le Would use the other expressions of a like charac- ter, carefully avoiding the use of unsportsian- toygorms When conversing on this papticular THE HUNT-BREAKFAST. All gentlemen riding to hounds, whether ‘Strangers to the host or not, have the privilege in England of entering any house where a hunt- breakfast is given and partaking of the hospitality Offered. ‘The breakfast, which’ partakes of the character of a cold collation with the addition of ale, bitter beer, Hquors, €c., 1s usually lad out in the dining-room, ‘and'no veremony whatever 1s observed, two or'three servants carving the cold Joint or row! and helping to salads, &c. ‘The gen- Uewen come and go at their pleasure, but al though ladies join the hunt it would not be eu. quette for thein to Join this informal meal If they did know the family. "The inistress of the house does not, as rule, preside at a hunt-breakfast, but recelves her fricuids tn the drawing-room, and the ladies of her acquaintance atveuding the meet either riding or uriving, would on their arrival make their way to the drawing-room, without en- tering the dining-room; any qeatieman, however, if tuncaing mereiy as a meiber of the Wunt would be expected to pay his respects to the ladies of the house, but ne would ask some friend to introduce him, We always see the green flelds of Eugland Speckied with the scariet coats of the huuters, what they call pink, Dut strangers being down for a few days’ huating usually hunt in & black coat, ‘The members ot the hunt Wear pink, of course, but they have a great horror of a new unspotted pink ‘They Consider tt “parvenu.” ‘The etiquette observed by Sportsinen 1n Eugland 4s Very strict, aud there are certain rules in respect Yo this sport Which aman wakes himself acquainted with betore attempting to engage tn Itin tue cou. Pay of sportsmen. Many good stories are toid of \hese inexperienced sportsinen, who, relying on a Superficial _knowieage of the subject, manage to count very serious blunders, For in3tance, they oftener thah not Violate ous of te Mrst ries of shooting, that of “never pointing a gun at any man, or dog,” a Violation of which rule made Mr. Winkle and Mtr. Tupman such poor sportsmen, ABOUT THE DoGs. The “dog” 1s a great stumbling block to the in- experienced “guu’—as the hunter 1s called, How many “guns” had you 1s equivalent to “how many hunters had you?” ‘The inexperienced sportsman Will Say to its dog, “Go and Mud, there's a ood dog. “Find tt sir, nud 4, there's a good dog!” ail of Wuich confuses dnd bewilders the dog and exaspe- rates the old “gun,” Who only says, “Hie! Seek! Steady!” A true sportsman uses but one expres. sion to indicate each particular duty required of Uhe dog. Again the inexperienced sportsman en- gages Lis party by exclaiming when the dog 13 Fequired to fail behind, “Come here, sir! come here, back; go behind, sir,” instead of using the one ‘word ‘of command, “ileel!” Dogs properly trained (and no sportsman Would take out one that Was not) thorougaly understand the short word of command given. A dog’s memory 1s so retentive that he never forgets a word he has been taught or the application of it, although he may not have heard it tor haifa dozen years. Nuniberiess. good stories are told in print and out of it of the 1guor- ance displayed by embryo gentlemen apropos of dogs, sucu as the following: A sportsznan on being told by hls host that If he followed the dog, a well trained pointer, he would be safe to hive’ a good day's sport, did’so Literally, and huuted him from field to fleld; and when at’last ne came up with him, when “ona point,” he deait lim a sinart biow to drive him onward, exciaiming, “I have Ured you out at last, have I'7" ETIQUETTE OF HUNTING. Itts difficult to make a would-be sportsman comprehend the strict etiquette maintained be- tween the owners of the manors; that is to say, he would think nothing of crossing the boundary Of his hosv’s manor if he was following a bird or & hare he had wounded, gun tn hand, oblivious of the fact that in the first place the greatest punc- Ullgusne3s 18 observed between gentlemen tn the matter of trespassing en each oiher’s land when out shooting, and unless the greatest ¢ntimacy existed a spdrtsinan would hardly veature to pick up his dead bird if it had fallen on a neighbor's manor; he would on no account look fora wounded one. ‘Then he must carefully leave his gun on Lis own side of the boundary; he must certainly not carry it with him on to his neighbor's laud. Tuese are points which strangers invited for a few days? shooting are very apt to be ignorant of, thus caus- ing much annoyance to. weir hosts, who are hid responsible for their mistakes. These petty ob- Servances are apt to seem idle to the man Who has shot over our boundless prairies, but they are very important in a thickiy-settled, small country like England. When a London mau Is asked down TO JOIN A SHOOTING PARTY, he would not take bis “loader” witt: him, as his host would expect to find him a “loader,” for no man loads his own gun in England; it 1s’ the duty of a servant; but if he were residing in the country he would expect to take his “loader” with hit, and he could ‘shoot with two guns;” that 13, he would bring two guns, as the deiay of waiting for one to be loaded might lose him a tine suo Ivis considered a great offense in England it a man 1s “noisy” when Out shooting—loudiy talka~ ‘uve or boisterously merry, or given to exciama- tons When a bird rises or when a bird 3 miss-d; a true sportsman observes a strict silence. A man “icoks” for a hare, or “picks up” his hare; he does not “track” it unless it is lost in the snow, while totrapahare 1s an offense only worthy of a poacher. A gentleman would not doit even on iis own land. ‘Every one “tips” the head game keeper from one to tive pounds, according tothe number of days’ shooting or” the extent of the. bag. Lord Cholmondelay gave to Mrs. Patterson Bona parte a xed code of words to use Which may be appended here, Say “shooting,” not “gunniug;” say “drive,” not “ride” (it it be in avarriage), Never say “dined off hain,” or “off” anything. ‘Say “give me some Maderia or sherry ;” never suy wine, except “port wine.” “Hunting” means riding aiter hounds, “shooting,” killing with a gun. We might go on indeftaltely’ with these differences be- tween the Englisi and the American purascology, It 1s impossible, however, for au American accus- tomed to the iilimiable prairie or sea ‘une freedom given to all men to shoot everywhere, which has’ led to the extermination of the Buffal> alinost, to realize the nicety with which game 1s Preserved ia Europe. ‘THE STATISTICS OF GAME killed in France in one September were given in the #igaro with great solemnity. Given 30,000 ‘communes in France, and in each commune were Killed ten hares, total 300,000 hares; seventeen rtnnages, total 612000; ourveen quail, Tota $40,000; one rail in “eact! comunune, total 20,000 a Imagine Iilinots or North Carolina keeping such fa tally of game; ‘we who boast that 00/000" gs birds are secured in one summer at one club house. ‘The love of hunting in England has led the wits to declare that the pheasant is the sacred bird of the English as the Ibis was of the Egypuans. It Is certalaly very much moe Gramaane Maas " ‘the sculptor, once shot a pal put them in marble for his host, ‘The bishop of Ox- ford made a very pretty verse on the: : “I{fe and Death in mystic ‘Game to the feathered bane, Death from thine unerring shot, E i F Hunting for the wind ts one of the most exciting sportsof the season. After you have gone from oom to room in vain to find it, you try the stoop. By the time you are on the stoop the wind has gone into the liprary. ‘Then you go on, outside of bs the Same itis still Aeon <9 Teun ene bea eee on your arrival, can’t find it, country house ts ‘Ww have a coul corner somew} ‘Dut ifit has itis hard to fads, eniess cn "ot the refrigerator in the cellar. only time Can find @ cool spotina country house ts during the winter, when you can sit on a stove and freeze Be ren, tng, te eal bor ber ‘We used to hear muéh of ” ‘to be as hard wo: PROGRESS PRESBYTERIANS. There Were Some at the Recent Gene= ral Conference in London. ‘VIEWS THAT WOULD HAVE BREN ACCOUNTED HERETI- CAL HALY A CENTURY AGO FREELY ANNOUNCED— A LIBERAL SPIRIT TOWARD WOMEN—INTEREST IN FOREIGN MISSIONS. From tho New York Sun, “Pan-Presbyterian” is the popular name of the great Presbyterian council which a few days ago closed its sessions in London. Its official title was “The Fourth General Council of the Alliance of Reformed Churches Holding tue Presbyterian Sys- tem.” The gathering was a representative one, with delegates trom every civilized country, a8 Well as from the heathen lands where missiona- ries are the only representatives of Christian civilization, Although bearing the somewhat formidadie title of council, its actions were not ofticial, But, considering the number of emi- nent Presbyterians present and their exalted character, the resolutions of this voluntary assembly carry more weight than some of the per- functory deliverances of stated ecclesiastical bodies.“ The number of delegates was about 300. But, by @ strange coincidence, they and their friends who accepted the hospitality of the Duke of Argyll, numbered exactly 666, "This number happens to be the one mentioned tn the book of revelation as ‘the number of the Beast.” ‘Those who study the mysteries of unfuiniied ‘prophecy are wondering wnat 1s the significance of tis coincidence. “The Duke of Argyil's garden party ‘Was not disturbed by the Wonderings of the pro- phetic students, for the count Was not announced ‘until the next day, 4 PLEA FOR LIBERTY OF CONSCIENCE. An incident significant of the progressiveness of Presbyterianism was the fact that the Rev. Dr. J. Oswald Dykes was the preacher of the opening sermon. Dr. Dykes, who ts one of the most _popu- lar of London's clergy: has for three years eon chairman of the comulstes on the revision of the Westminster Confession of Faith, ‘The articles of faith which this committee recently adopted and sent to the English churches for review and ‘discussion, contain some radical departures from the teachings of the Westininster theologians of two and @ baif centuries ‘Had such teachings as are now put forth in these articles of faith bea published iifty years ago the authors and pro- movers would have been tried for heresy. But the Yery spirit in which this great council was called Logether precludes the Idea of heresy trials for the event. Church people have found that they oan uploy their Ume and brains better than in quar- Teluing over bits of doctrine and formulas of faith, Dr. Dyke's sermon contained no allusion to here- stes It was an earnest plea for liberty of con- sclence and for the breadth of Christian spirit Which will be productive of true unity among all religious people, SIMPLE MUSIC, ‘There was one little evidence of a disposition to adhere exclusively to the old style of thought and action, ‘There are certain families of the Presby- terlan faith who sing nothing but the old Scotch Versions of the Psalms, ‘They consider the use of these rhymes to be so tmportant that they will aMillate with people who sing anything else. They gave out in advance of the meeting of the counell that If other devotional lyrics were to be sung they would absent themselves, ‘To avold hurting thelr feelings and driving them away, the committee in charge agreed tat noting ‘else should be sung. ‘Tis cuv out the uss of ail mis- sionary hymud, ali modera hymns, and all the hymns on Christian work and duty wita which the hymnology of the present day 1$80 rich. Or. gans caine Under the same ban as uninspired hymns, Not a note of instrumental music was aliowed at the couacil. 80 MANY AMERICAN CLERGYMEN and elders were present that it seemed almost lke an American gathering; the more so as the Americans were alowed very large Lberty, many of them furnishing important papers, An American clergymay 1s a very different sort of betag from the average British cl-rgyman. The Briton is naturaily wore full of clerical pomp and dignity. He affects clerical apparel far more than his American brotier. Of the two the Briusher may be the more learned, but he is less effective with his learning. ‘That ‘vigorous business alr with Which so many American clergymen make themselves lively and Welcome Is a stranger to he Brush clerical mind, ‘The British clergyman ex- pects to be listened to because ho 1s a clergyman, even If hiy discourse be as heavy as lead. AS for the men from Bohemla, Italy, France, Hungary and the otuer non-English speaking countries, few Of thein could make themselves understood By an audience largely composed of men who speak En- glish exclusively, THERE AWE SEVENTY-EIGHT BRANCHES of the Presbyterian Church, ‘These are not neces- sarily hostile to each otuer. Some of them have had theirorigin in splits,secessions,and squabbles, many of which were so long ago that the present generation forgets exactly whut Uiey Were about, Some; are ditterent because in different lands, ‘Tne Northern and Southern Presbyterian Churches were both ably represented, although at their re- cent assemblies they concitided that the tine had hot yet come to repair the breaches made by the stavery sculsin of war times, ‘The whole Presby- Verlan membership represented was about 3,600.- 000. ‘This does not seem very large when it is re- inetnbered that Ubey are the Presbyterians of the Whole earth, and there are in the United States 1,130,000 of these meinbers, THERB WERKE NO WOMEN DELEGATES inthis All-Presbyterian Couacll. A propos.tion to introduce them would have raised havoc. But the council showed tts interest in them and their work by taking very prohounced action regarding a pro- dorder of deaconesses, Dr. Charteris, of Edin- urg, led off In a telling speech about what wo- meu had done both in ‘ancient times and in the Present. He traced the history of the deaconesses of the early Caristian centuries, and of their ab- Sorpuion into nuns under the influence of priests, who Wanted absolute dominion, It was, there: fore, proposed that the active women of each chufen should now, as far as possible, be organ- ized into a board of deaconesses, armed with power todo ofcially what they now do of theirown accord. ‘The suggestions of Dr. Charteris were warmly endorsed by Dr. Join Hall and a dozen other American clergymen, ‘The council passed resolutions, Which will carry much moral weignt, in favor of the deaconesses, and yet, as a Tenes see clergyman remarked, the American Presbyte- rian Chureh bas ali tuat 1s asked for in the dea coness line except the name, One of the subjects most. effective in arousing enthustasm was that of toreign missions. ‘The zeal felt in this cause throughout the church ts so great that the announcement of a missionary meeting with a sample of returned missionary always draws a crowd, Faious missionaries were the couneil from Calcutta, Canton, Yokohama, and 4m Ube Pacttic Islands, ‘The veteran Mitchell, who has been a tnlssionary for hait a century, inade & profound linpression, Missionary Macgregor, from China, Was distinguished a8 the delegate from the first bauive church Which was gathered from heathenism and Incorporated tn the alliance, LIBERTY IN WORSHIP. ‘The Rev. Mr. Bersler, an eloquent French minis- ter, made a hearty appeal for liberty in worship, both in prayer and praise. He denounced the singing of the old Scotch Psalms, and declared tt to be the result of a misconception of the duty of the Christian Church, He wanted more inusic ‘and more responsive service in the regular church worship. Several other clergymen iollowed Lun with pleas for more attractive service and more lively inusic. Of course there were some vener- bles who could see no good in any other service than the old style, one composed of three hymns or Psalms, a long ciapter, along prayer, and along sermon, The drift of opinion to the council was in favor of services {n wach the people can take part; services which are made attractive by plenty ‘of good music, and in which the sermon 1s not the overshadowing attraction, SKEPTICISM, ‘The Rev. Marcus Dods, D.D., of Glasgow, came near throwing a firebrand into the council. His paper Was an inquiry into how far the churches are responsible for the skepticism which exists in the community. ‘The doctor says that the accept ance of all parts of the Bible as equally inspired Is @ great stumbling block to outsiders who would lke to become Chri: but do not see their way clear. He claims that it is hardly fair to insist on the infalitbility of a record which mentions as well pi vo God the sanguinary tragedies enacted by Joshua in the vanquishing of tne Original land-holders - of -Paiestine. br. pods polnts out the difference between the teacia of the New Testament and the Old, drawing the contrast more sharply than {t 13 usually drawn, He divests the gospel of much of what has for generations served as wrappings, and urges that the current ake ticism of the day is something which must Go met with a very different treatment trom any it hag yet recived, ‘The discussion which followed Dr, Dod’s essay Was by far the most spirited of ‘any in the council, Several prominent Presbyte- Tlans scented heresy in the essay, and Te. Duked its author. ‘The doctrine ‘ot the plenary, Word-for-word Inspiration of the whole Bi Genesis to Revelation, was brought for- ward. ‘The holders of the Ins} view are very firm tn their ‘They contend that Af tt cai be proved that a single word of the whole Scripture is uninspired, the Bible falls to pieces held tn Toronto tn 1882. The ‘then will be immense. Presidents Without Middle Names, ‘From the Cincinnati 5 ‘The Sanitary Marriage. RULES OF CONDITION WHICH SHOULD BE COM- PULSORY IN NUPTIAL UNIONS. From the Boston Herald. ‘The day when true sanitary marriage will be- come tue rule is a long way off. The need must ve made more plainly evident, In this country We are developing, trom the amalgamation of many strains, a race wholiy new to the world Our immigrants, as they intermarry with those who have preceded them, produce descendants of A quicker and more agressive mental type than ‘their own, and it is noted by Darwin that the Dodies and limbs of these descendants are very notuceably mg than those of their ancestors. During our civil war the uniforms manufactured to At the av Aterican soldler—including Pah foreign = a though born here—were lor as a rule, much oo long for foreign- “fs BCH nav area are we sl we lear and toap- Ply, the laws of proper selection in our Tact ought to be second to none in health ’and physi development; and that in- Vellectual advancement. A wide step toward the needed reform has becn taken by us as a people, for far more than ever before are we interested in physical culture, upon which health so cleariy de- pends, There ts a promise that It will yet have the high place in the curriculum of education which it deserves, Our schools now, on account of the absence of a proper system of physical culture, are constantly Sending out into the world young ‘men ‘and young Women who, by reason of their infirmities, never ought to marry, And again, our ill-ventilated counting-rooms and factoriés ‘are generauing an army, the offspring of which must present every hase Of bodliy imperfection. The remedy for this physical cuiture, and the sooner it ts recognized by all, and particularly by our educators, the bet- Yer. Sociai reformers and philanthropists have here a wide field for cultivation, Let them impress ‘upon our growing youth the importance of healthy bodies, harmoniously developed by proper exer- Young women, perhaps even more than young men, need encouragement to strive to secure bodily perféction by proper exercise, They must realize that mere beauty of face, while it attracts and Possibly excites the admiration of some, does not alone constitute true beauty, Which cab only be founded on perfect health. Another tuing which young ladies must remem. ber: No matter how richly nature has endowed ‘hein with outward charms they can retain them only as long as they enjoy good health, ‘They may algo be assured that beauty founded on pertect health continues even to old age. Noone desires to see Spartanism revived tn these times, but we may learn valuable lessons from it. ‘The Spartans wor- shiped the beautiful and useful, and they took means to secure them. Bodily perfection was at- tained by enforced, well-appointed exercise. There Were but few sickly men and women among thei. None sickly were allowed to marry, and all in health were compelied todo so; if they refused they Were punished, Bachelors after a certain age Were shut out of the society of women, and once a year were shamed in public, Neither boys nor girls were allowed Uo inarry before maturity was Teached, This Spartan system of marriage, purely for the Welfare of the state, continued tor 500 years, and during that time there were produced & succession of the stro1 and bravest men ind the most healthy and beautuful women that the world has ever known, ‘There is a remarkable and_self-1mposed family law which popularly prevails, we are told, through. out Brazil iu relation to matrimony. It is recog- nized among all the higher classes. ‘The man who 45 about to tnarry 1s required to furnish a certin- cate from oue of more physicians that he is tree trom diseases of 4 certain character, and that ne 1s free also from all cigns of any of the diseases Which are Hable to be transmitted to the offspring. Not only that, but the physiclans consulted must testify that, as far as they can learn, there exists no reason t belteve that the union ‘will be other tuan In accord with the laws of sanitation, “coe Credo, ‘Trusting, I learn the whole— ‘Phat lito is the fruit of death, ‘Ripened by God's own breath, Upou the unfleshed soul. Seo! here within my arms My little child is pressed; Iclasp her to my breast, And southe her yrief's alarms, My faltering words she hears ‘She cannot understand, But, clinging to my band, ‘Looks up, aud nas uo fears, the darkest days, 5o, through {oct God's tender silo: And can but Love and praise, joan but love —Sakan D. Hozanz. Men and Women Writers. SOMETHING ABOUT THE BEAUTIFUL ONES AMONG THE WOMEN—THE BBST LOOKING OF THR MEN. ‘Time was when all military women were sup- posed to be homely, says Current Literature. To- day beauty is becoming fashionable in the clan. Maud Howe, Amelie Rives Chanier, Dudu Fietcher, Mrs. Burnett, Blanche Willis Howard and Mme. Lanza are ali handsome women. Maud Howe, ot rather Mrs, Elliot, has a Juno figure and her eyes and hair of rich, warm brown. She is much given to mstheulc gowns of sad-colored green, and taagies up water lilies in her nair, She has ‘the carriage of an empress. Amelie Rives Chanler has biue eyes, golden brown hair, and @ pretty complexion, She disdains fowns upon ordinary occasions and winds herself up in yards of nun’s veiling or camel's hair. Duda Fletcher has a wonderful head of guiden ‘hair, black Hashing eyes, and gets her gowns from a French miliiner. “Mrs, Burnett is a striking brunette, and also affects the wstnetic. Blanche Willis Howard 1s described as having an unusually fine presence and attractive face. Mme. Lanza (Dr. Hammond's daughter) 1s a blonde of the pures type. Her hair is reddish, her eyes dark gray, her skin fair, and her features strong, but feminine. She wears her hair short and much {rizzed. She dresses like the he society Woman, and is addicted to white urs, Jullan Hawthorne, Marion Crawford, Thomas Bailey Aldrich, Henry James and Edgar Saltus are the best looking of the men. Hawthorne is nearly 6 feet and measures 48 inches about tne chest, He has a strong, dark, rather stern face, and wears his hair long. Crawford has black hair, blue eyes and a good figure. He Was a great belle before he Was married.” Aldrica has a splendid pair of darkeyes and a carefully waxed mous- tache, Jumes has dark hair and beard, a fine, calm, profile, tuougutfui eyes and an intellectual head. "Saltus is dark as an Indian, and Wears his hair as carefully straight. His nead 1s remarkably well shaped, but he las a spoilt, pouting, boyish face, He does not look twenty-five. All of these mea dress like rational individuals, Btet_ Harte used Uo be one of the good-looking men of fiction; but his method of living has put beauty away for- ever. ———_-+o+. How Three Men From the Louisville Post. Recently there was a gathering of young mar- ried couples at the house of one, and the conversa- {ion turned on the manner in which the wives had secured their husbands, Each one had a different story (o tell, and some of the experiences related ‘were very amusing. One had paved the way to the altar by making a face at the fated one be- cause she thought he had stared at her im) dently. He admired her mettle and sought an in- ‘troduction. : acquaintance of the man who and Wives, Another nade the is now her husband by accidently sousing bin with a pan of dish-water which she tossed out of the kitchen window into an alley Just in time to catch him as he was passing. She was, of course, very sorry for her thoughtlessness and insisted on. repairing the damages as far as she could and did At so deftly that he determined to have her clean all of hts clothes. ‘The one that Was, however, voted to be the most novel was the experience of a young man con- nected with the municipal governmcul, The latter ‘was in the hablt of passing, on his way home, the residence of the young lady who 1s now his better half, and one evening out of a spirit of mis- chief she “accidently on pt ” turned the hose on him. He faced about, blushed violenuy and stammered a “thank you” in response to her roguish smile, and from that moment he knew was fated. A Michigan Parrot, ‘From the Detroit Free Preas, July 15. ‘There 1s a parrot at the Barrows House in this city which is a very knowing bird. A few days ago some telegraph men were nailing on some C1 and usii eens, “thy BOE aE ong When ready'Let. her go," and Poly haf boon listening with close attention. Suddenly the work- men heard a stentorian voice cry “Let her go,” and threw the rope at the wrong time to the annoyance of the man below whe sald: a didn’t give any order, It was that —— Pithe bird belongs to a leutenant on the revenue- cutter Fessenden. She is a gray African And much adiatred for her’ beauty and clevernest. Avery dign! tleman one , and thepira was put under the table ana vit ‘some- thing of bis expericaces aurng long a and wien ne nnisued, te momentary silence was interrupted by a sepulchral voice calling out Americans Sit Down Teo Much, From the Albany Journal. An Albany physician says that Americans suffer more generally from Bright’s disease and nervous i i : z* fit if i il : ul fi 4 EY 5 4 t i i Nerves in Summer, From the New York Commercial- Advertiser. ‘With the exception of afew short spelis of in- tense heat, the present summer has thus far becn more comfortabie than it is the habit of American Summers to be. Yet ithas been flery enough to ‘cause many men who are not accustomed to the use of violent language to waste much of their heatness on the desert swear, and especially has ‘this been the case with those of us who have the misfortune to be what is called “nervous,” which is the exact opposite of what ls meant by the word “nervy.” It means Laermer yi and as most people are more subject to lassitude in summer than in the other seasons, naturally they are more nerv- ‘ous, and those persons who are nervous at all times fall to a very low ebb during the heated term. Then they are pretty apt to vecome great nul- sances, Doth to themselves and to other ‘Then the jopper becomes a burden more unbearable than the punishment of Cain, and wherever the man of nerves sees he curses him yom the tp of bis antennmw to the end Of his tail, sharing wings, nor abdomen, ‘Ror membranous ‘spaces, and particularizing with t Vehemence of objurgation each Joint of that fasted and sheol-bound insect’s toes, the Jegs Yith which be abominably goes headiong.str dling through the air, and the organs with which he emits the turkey-trodden, sed, splay- footed and biear-eyed steam-whistle of a noise loud enough to wake the dead and stop the town clock, And yet the 4s an amiable ttl being, whose praises have been sung by Anacreon Of old and Tennyson of new. Nobody has a right Yo curse him save the farmer, and the nervous man is not a farmer. There is nothing out of the Way With the sweet cicada, who is seized upon by the man of nerves as a proper subject for curses merely because the nervous man happens to see 0, For this man will, when he is in one of his tan- trums, accuse a stone wail of being a perjurer, a thief, @ murderer and a liar. It, because of the un- Sreness of the oor on which ft stands, a table is unstable, the victim of nerves Will not hesitate to break gréat vials of wrath on the ancestors of the table ‘unto the “most remote generation which came into existence in the carboniferous age, and he will let fy at the pig-spouted, lo} Tupk- head of a carpenter who, Dullt tbe table as well as that other beer-bursten, Ic im million dye who laid the floor, and bulit the house in the confounded ramsbackle modern man- In ancient Rome and in the Middle Ages the mantelpiece, one side in the spittoon and the other up the chimney as your modern architect Goes, Wien they put a floor down, it stayed put without having to be tacked down every five min- Utes, and you were not obliged to put matches and nickels under a table's legs to make it stand Straight, and then as soon as you had stopped any wobbling and bobbing of the table, if for any Teason it didn’t stand steady in those old days, you didn’t have a big brute beast o a Italian come around and play hurdy-gurdi accordions under your window to drive you IU musi, be—nay, It 1s—a verrible thing to bea mat of nerves in the dog days, or, for the matter Of Uat, at any time. Let those Of us who have no nerves, but who are all brain and brawn, sound the loud timbre! and chant the mighty pman of praise to kind nature for all that she has done for us. Butif we have any regard tor our skin, let Us not do so in the presence of the man of whom the poet once wrove: “A oe ines ©; uainrt he gotauerve!™ eee The Eskimo and their Home, ‘Frederick G. Schwatka in the American Magazine, Way human beings have been found living in ‘this lone land of desolation hes given rise to no Uttle theorizing and speculation, the buik of which seems to be that they are eruelly forced to abide here by the sup- Posed greater strength of the savages to the south of them, My own ideas are with the “respectable minority,” which believes that they are found in ‘these regions for the same reasons Uhat we find the reip- fer, the, mmUMK-Or, and the walrus; that (suits their peculiar temperament and dispo- sition better than any other climate or condition possibly could, and they are no more forced into Uhe frigid zone by other savages than the animals named are held there by the ‘antelope, buffalo, or caribou of lower latitudes. When are taken from thelr Hyperborean home they are as rest- Jess to return as the castways in their own land are to get back to civilization, and singular enough, despite all thelr deso- late surroundings, they are the most happy and contented race, savage or cl in the four corners of the ‘earth; althoug! aad corner. The tale toid by Captain Hall of the deep longing of the sick and sinking Eskimo, Kudlago, to ‘see his land of ice and snow before he died, and his Joy on being carried to the deck of the Aj nd ‘ship when Uhe first iceberg was sighted, is as pa- thelic as any ever told of urn of Arctic Tefugees to their land of flowers and forests, and clearly shows that patriotism and love of home is circumscribed by no parallels of lai itude nor infivenced by climatic conditions, Wherever the Indians and Eskimo have come in contact in an aggressive way, Ube north- ern nomads have steadily pushed back thelr cop- per-colored neighbors, and the only places where ‘Uthey—the Eskiino—have penetrated far inland to reside, 1s along the Yukon and Kouskogutin rivers of Alaska. Here they have elbowed out the Indian living on the swarming Ssheries of these streams, on the sw: Their homes were cold and cheeriess in the ex- treme, but they had powers of resistng it that seemed phenominal far beyond human endur- ance a8 we have found it limited in our own zone. I have known ove of these cold-weather cavaliers Uo take a reindeer hide that had been io ‘the water, and that was frozen as stiff as a piate of boll and put it against his bare 3 holding‘it there, not only until it was thawed out, ‘Dut until it was perfectly ary. The skin was vo bé used as a drum-head for singing and dancing exercises, and had to be dry and hairless to answer Liat purpose, the shaking ridding it of the hair, while there were apparenuy ho oUher means of drying it than the heroic method From the large number of reindeer killea by Eskimo they are abundantly suppiled with skins tor bedding and clotning, and in the making up of Unese necessaries they Lave displayed so much tact and talent with the limited means at hand that they are the best dressed natives in the North. Frow one of their fancy ‘on certain gar- Inents—the boot-tops—they yet their distinctive tribal name, the Kinnepetoos, ge = A Western Club for Women. From the N.Y. Graphic. ‘The Atheneum, at Milwaukee, is the beautiful home of the Woman's Club of Wisconsin. This club, @ lterary and social organization, had exist. ed for ten years When the need of larger accomo- dations was felt, Accordingly seventeen ladies, Tepresenting the wealth and culture of the city, met and formed themselves into a joint stock com- Pany, whieh is believed to be the only organiza. Uon of the kind in the world which 3 composed exclusively of women. The object was stated as follows: “For the pury promot ‘best ractical methods’ for securing the educational, dustrial and social advancement of w ‘and as a center for literary, scientific and musi ture in the city of Milwaukee, and for put such real estate as may be necessary or conven- Jent for the lawful or proper use of the mezabers of said corporation, and erect ‘building thereon, nd ‘for the purpose of estat ising, furaishing, equipping and managing the ‘building as lay be deemed expedient.” The ng Toomsattached, to be rented ‘by the stock com any as a means of revenue. “It is so warm,” the maiden sighs, “Don't ask my help, mii naLSat cam And plays lawn tennis halt day. ‘am sure your medicine cured me, and I ‘mend it to any one suffering from any blood ‘Yours truly, THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D.C.,-SATURDAY, AUGUST 4, 1888S—DOUBLE SHEET EDUCATIONAL. _ Ree (MD ] ACADEMY, SIXTEEN MILES Sy Pe aS eS ov Sis Geiapti Nite Sk wre as oe mate ween = Ha eae eetera ne reece ay f Rev, Dr. C.K. BELBUE, 5 September 1. Birookvile Monuromery County. Md NLARE! FOR GIRLS. Cetreney HIN TO males Washirton. ‘Smrion begiba Sept 20. WORTHINGTON. Principal, Box $1, Alexandria: Ve References: Kt Rev. AM. Randolph, D. "De ker H. McKim, D. D., Gen, W. i. FP. Mr. Frenk Hime. “= ‘us. 1223 15m Sr. ‘The MISSES KERR'S School for Young Ladies and Little Girls willopen WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 26. Ac ‘commodations for «limited number of Boarding Pu- pila, Until September address NIAGARA FALLS SOUTH, a2l-3m We MEDIOAL, DENTAL. AND PHARM. cal Departments of Howard University will berin reular afirem CB PURVIS, MD- Secretary. rene CB PU a . CSL tocd SDSS ath at EW WINDSOR COLLEGE AND WINDSOR FE HORTHAND REVOLUTIONIZED. A NEW ERA | Siscese ‘Actie Pho taurht in 16 simple ftaived in three tiomtha oar Sp JOHNS COULEGR, ANNAPOLIS. MD. K1GHT Departments and Four Courses ef Stags, Student Eiodernta. Preparatory‘ Schoct cttasbek ‘Specad st ‘ool attac! fe tention vivea to Atting boys to enter cellage, the un Yernity, oF the ilitary of naval schools. of Grnmeut. Situation tost beautiful and Bealthtul For catalogues address President THOMAS FELL, aM 3y25-2m N ATIONAL MEDICAL COLLEGE MEDICAL AND DENTAL DEPARTMENTS OF THE COLUMBIAN UNIVEKSITY. ‘The stxty-seventh winter session will bein October 1, 1888, and end March 1, 1889, in the new College Building, 1325 H st.n.w. For circulars and informa- tion of both departments address ‘ e Dr. AF. A. KING, 726 13th st. n.w., Washington. D.C. _Telephonecall 885.024 MAUPIN S UNIVERSITY SCHOOL. “er.icoTt City, Md.—Seventh ~essiou opens 19TH SEP. TEMBER "For ° Catalogues ‘CHAPMAN MAUPIN, M. AL, Princip: __ay28-s&w. Sin" ORTH BOARDING AND DAY SCHOOL FOR GIRLS, 122 West Franklin st., Baltimore, Md, Mrs. H.POLEFELVRE, Principal. ‘This schoul will re- ‘open ob THURSDAY, the 20th of SEPTEMBER. The ‘course of instruction embraces all the studies included ima thorough English Rducation, and the Preuch aud German languages are practically taught }y25- wise" E. SCHEEL, TEACHER OF PIANO, ORGAN ¢ and Singing at aight. Particular attention to be- ginhers, as well as those wishing to be qualitied for Yeachers or performers. 734 12th st. uw. 3y18-wesim* CEW EN ‘BOS TO in the worl ND CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC . MASS.—The largest and best equipped 3 100 Instructors. 252 Studeuts fast year, | Tho istruction in Vocal and lustra- menial Music. Fiano and Organ Tuning, Fine Aris, Oratory, Literature, French, German, and Italian Lan- eygres Eneiet ranches, Gymnastics, &e. Tuition, Mo $25; Bourd and ‘Hiootn with ‘Sioa Heat atl lectric Light, 83 to $7.90 per week. Pall Term ‘Septeniber 13, 1NSk. "For Illustrated Calcuda®, giving full information, E. TOURJEE, Director, Frank!in Square, Boston, Mans. NOTRE DAME OF MARYLAND, COLLEGIATE Institute for Young Ladies paratory school for Little Girls, Embla P.O. three mules from Balt! PROPOSALS. Deenuing it conducive te toe Cole fxtends se Dist shat {oon 33 to 6B feet. the, oun 33 to 8 feet Os have bed the route surveyed. of prepared, sued filed im this cdoe "Tat not Ia. te Siver of the proposrd @idraing of 0 Sforecaid andall pereons who have chject) Seut torreto are cated ron attend et this oteh at TMHUL OCLOCK Mon TUSSDAS, the Foti ENTH DAY OF AUGUST: INBR, 1 Stu Commoners wil ee beat teres WB Wh, Se WHRATL KAYMOND, Comminsonera D.C. X, D.C. AUGUST 1, I8S8.—SkAy rnish 125 tons of furmisce ated 35 (othe National Assocation for the Reiiet of Destitutet olored Women and Children wilh be revived at tbe Preedinau’s Ho wi ata by cB - until AUGUST BINT. at TWELVE OCLOCK. B. PURVIS. Freed- REASURY DEPARIMENT. OFFICE OF Sit SUPERVISING “ARCHITECT SEALED PRO- POSALS will be Feceiver at the fii of the Super’ ing Architect of the ts Treasury Deparuseut at Wash DC and spened at 2 p.m of the dat dey of SEPTEMBER 168k for fuculatine Sut ete St the freight deyot at the ‘of destination.” poet ce lock bones aud drawers ‘with three keys deck, ae re same may be ordered by the, Guverunent dyeing the fecal year ending June 3, L480" ihdaers seust submnt fohuniete plata ahd specifeation of ty some rruction «if their bones, Ae. aud the method of jie fag them in the screcn, towsdlver with samprien of eames Arawere keys, locks atid other tecemary: btthugn, state ing he price at which dupltace Reye ad ote ‘will be tpruiehed when ordered by the Govern Bide must state the price per bow, drewor kena te Sccompamed by Scertifed check for ome hudneh ere jare (e100), drown to the order of the Treasured the United Staten After the contract ts swarted the wuer consful bidder will be furnshel Gagrams showing umber, arrangement method of uumtertow, ot iota any -tuer saformation upon applicsiion te WiLL". FREE, Supersistue Architect " FINANCIAL J ‘W. CORSON. 20, w MACABTNER CORSON & MACARTNEY, GLOVER BUILDING, 1419 F ST. Now. Bankers and Dealers i Goverument Bouda, ote ee a Beude aiod wil Loval Kallrusd, Gam, ineurancy, aod Tele Amernan bell Telephone Stock bought and sold jy 1S = LADIES GOODs. Fevora Davss Surerps " AE THE BEST IN THE WORLD. Manufactured by AH. Briukmann & Oy., Baitinore ‘aud-cosia, \ HAVE NEVER BEEN EQUAL TO PRESEST MAKE MORE POPULAR THAN EVER 4 PERFECT FIT GUARANTEED, more, Md. Conducted by thé Sisters of Notre Dau Send for catalogue. 230-m,was-2m ANNAH MORE ACADEM¥—14 OFFICERS AND teachers. Careful training, thorouxh instruction. aud influences of quiet Christian home iu healthy nelahberhood, Kay, A. J. KICH, A.M., M.D. Keistor- stown, Md. 525m, ween OSE POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. TERRE Haute Ind. A School of kugineering Well en dowed, well equipped departments of Mechanical and Civil Eneineering, Electricity, Chemistry and Draw- fut, Extensive Shope and Laboratories, (For Cats. logue, address T. C. MENDENHALL. Pres.jy141uw-4¢ (CHARLOTTE HALL scHoo!, ST. MAKY'S COUN. Tx, MD. Will commence its 115th year SEPTEMBER 3, 1888. Situation unsurpassed for health. Exteasive grounds, iiitary trainine: Tecme {$100 for board aud tuition for ten months, Pardeulars, ad:iross jy26-u,uem KW. SILVESTER, Principal. RR SCOPAL, FEMALE INSTITUTE WINCHE: ter, Va.—15th session of this well-known, socessi- ble, and thorows: tember 17. pant vs MAGILL SMITH, MA. Ps (or ai : na Princ pal dy2 lol w' = WARTHMOKE- Ov! > i) NSW AUTHMORE, PA. ‘9th month, 11th. Thirty minutes from Broad Fae. Phil: phia. Under Ko Cae 3 Nk, sea diterey. tiny ayaiajen trump aa 0 Extensive buildings and avparatus. For catalogue aid full particulars. id-cotm EDWARD H. MAGILL, LL. D., President. (HELTENHAM ACADEMY—BOALDING SCHOOL for on Chelten Hills, near Philadelphia: ex- tensive ings. chapel and gymnasium ; lange play grounds: military drill; prepares for colioge or busi- 218th year bevine ver ess igi Jelecoaue heey. br: CLEMENTS. Oponte ut Paula, 3) MAPLEWOOD INSTITUTE, FoR nor senes, Concoruville, Pa.” Propara fusiness Graduating. hugiish Graduating. “Scionti Sia dignly "nesoenmenaea by ‘eecene' Sou bose eeotuine , silOniifbde Gale. a Pe ALP RATES FOR SUMMER ONLY —ELOc TION, ORATORY, VOICE CULTURE. Est UKE AND GHACK. Eventing ‘Sessions. Sumner, Classes Fesume on 1UESDAY EVENING, July 31-a07 pin for two mouths’ course. Tuition ieee for course #8 yward, deycuding on the Dumber of studies pursned, (Colteriate courees in locations Gratosy of keting commence October 3. Terms #5 per year) Cire firs, Oatalogues tnd Journals, PSARTEN COL Lege OF UTION AND ORATORY, 313 6th atin w aug WARRENTON. VA. fons its 28th annual session Ncpt 13, 18B8, Situated in the Piedmont region of Virgin's. Unsurpassed for ies Deauty and healthfuiness; only 50. antves trom Wash: beton Sty, ema branch ofthe Richinond and Live ond. the sero res in all ave taste‘ Inia ‘out, The building'is ove of tue Seat school eal fBcee ‘Terms very reasouaie. For cata: loguce address GEO. G: BUTLER. A My Prin, -eovm JRORDENTOWN FEMALE COLLEGE. NJ ‘Charming location on the Delaware. Healthful, ‘Ghristian, “Superior facilities tu muse and ‘ary flcalthtugunerm and morals corefully Jelb-eoSzt Mav WM. C. BOWEN, A.M. Prost. T PEEKSKILL MILITARY ACADEMY, PEEKS- ill-on-1 wend for catalogue. FS judson, New York. Send ‘JOUN'N. TILDEN, M.D. 3.A.. * Brinetpa_ YEAR-SHORTLIDGE MEDIA (Pa) ry ACADEMY.—Boys College or Business, Broad $500 sain. tr. st. station, Phils; 24 trains daily. SWITHIN C. SHORTLIDGE, A.B, A. M., (Harvard) Proprietor. aaiiaad }e30"Sim ‘ORAV M ‘Bethlehem, y's experience, combi with best modern methods, affords facilities by few and excelled by none. ay ‘ASHINGTON CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC, ST. ‘Cloud Building, uth and F sts uth ._ Ninetors Piano, Organ, Voice, Violin, Flute, Cornet, Rivaniares: 0. B BULLARD, Director. iy Nae ) INSTITUTE-SELECT. . D. CABELL, Principals. Fer summer Bond Testion eldrew are 'W. HALSEY, Norwood, Va. HE FREDERICK FEMALE SEMINARY IS DE Dire ‘uated in the beautiful and healthful THRER LENGTHS SHORT, MEDIUM 4XD EXTRA LONG. TWELVE GRADES. HIGHEST awanDs GRaNTED. THE BEST GOODS AND CHEAPEST FOR QuALITY, FOR SALE EVERYWHERE THOMSON, LANGDON & CO. New York, Sole Manufacturers mb3-emé&wOm Mux M, J. Praxoi 1900 F sf now. (Mrs. Hunt's) FINE FRENCH HAIR GOODS. A selection in ser ORNAMENTS, “Mair Dressed aud Banes Shimeled. - — SUPERFLOOUs MAIK | DESTROTED. LEAVING electric needle uo trace by any newile proves, eudorwed bY every prominent physician. Ten yearw practtor tn thie city. Lreatuient {or ladies and children, 2y6-lur MiB, Dit. GABLIEL, 1321 Get. how, TRENCH DYEING, SCOURING AND DRY CLEAN. ING ESTABLISHMENT, 1203 New York ava, iret-clase Ladies’ aud Gents’ work of every, tion ANTON AND CAROLINE: LieOk. with a. Fischer and Maison Neiewe, Paria. juste “ANION FISCHERS DRY CLEANING ESTAR LISHMENT AND DYE WORKS, 906 G st. nw ALSENE AXb pte wonky sonar. na LS - Ladies’ bveming LL 4 Dipectal ! years’ experssacs, Pesees ee Renee aeee ee LL-WOOL GARMENTS MADE UP Ok RIPPED, Sjed wgued mourning tines: Asa 4. FISCHER, 206 Gate. FAMILY SUPPLIES. Wu Is Trar Scere, Sroner SOMETHING * ‘That bas caused everybody to sound the praise of BRIDAL VEIL FLOUR? ‘Try it and seo, and you will use no other, Forme by the following well known grocers, JOHN H. MAGRUDER, 1417 New Yorkava, CHAS. L_ KELLOGG, Masonic Temple, ¥ehet, GEO, E_ KENNEDY & SON, 1200 F st. \. E. ABBOTT, 1721 Peunsylvania ave. K A WALKER, 1600 7ch st. E. M. BURCHAKD & BKO., Penn. ave.and 4igat, @. W. & H.W. OFFUTT, Georgetown. A. 0. WRIGHT, 16% dal d-wiee ——SS—— OS PIANOS AND ORGANS, K: xane Prasos EQUALED IN TONE, TOUCH, WORKMAN@GHIP oe ind DUWAuILEDy Special attention of Purchasers is invited t our Ne OHIGNEOT vicumaTive Ani, ERCONDsAND. V1ANOS. nabos at HOUSEFURNISHINGS. _ B GS. Me have just received a large crinsignment of new spring patterns. "W Sil Tbe: white tia i (for loc. Jer piece, Gilt Peers rot Te. 1090. Entonmed aly froun Spas Tiutine ee ‘ “SB LEPREDX & BRO, 508 stew. 7th street care pass the door