Evening Star Newspaper, January 31, 1885, Page 3

* THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D. Cc. SATURDAY, JANUARY 31, 1885-DOUBLE SHEET. FEBRUARY FASHIONS. Coter as an Element tn Artistic Cox tume—What Constitutes Fa From Our Own Correspondent: New Yorx, January 30.—Some heated dis- cussions have taken place of late in regard to what constitutes “fall” dreas. {t is undoubtedly true that the custom ot wearing low bodice is extending, and increasing in a direction that ts Jeast desirable, viz: among young girls. Now there is no particular harm in the wearing of low, decently cut bodices. Forty or fifty years ago children aad young women wore them uni- versally, but there is harm in the wide differ- ence bet basques cut high to the throat and bodices which form a mere strap about the waist: there is immodesty in stripping a young girl so that the charm or her fresh young womanhood is forever destroyed. and her sense of what is right and proper. forever blunted. Dressmakers are mere at tauit in the matter than mothers, and could dy more to prevent fashion from prov- ing a ana They tell girls that it is pradish to object toa cut which leaves nd that fashionable lead wear them so, and so themother protest; she very often does, but fore the combined influence st exposed, and anthoritie: may utter he she is powerless b: of the modiste an! the desire of the girl, just entering lite, to represent the fatest sty and show her pretty person to adyan- tage. Yet it not unfrequently —happe: that such exhibitions are not only suggestively Indecent, but v It has been ifthe low are, with to soften the line of velvet or satin in its contact with the skin, no matter what the color. whether white or a dusky red. The soft- ness of youth and the grace of American triumphs over very severe circum- stances, but the charm whichthey exercise is in spite of whacks of an ignorant eaprice whi fashion: not aided by it. skins, so perfect In color rat the vi the neek and throat seems only the contiauation of the fine, firm body of the fabric. But these are so rare as to a the fashion 'y require a nd establish friendly relations ielding fabrie and the shrink- cate xkin, particularly when Ided fo that of texture. uot needed is eviden ‘y ball, at every evenin to sotten lines between and ur nner. They may be d, but they are mod- bodices are not neces- le, nor all high ones unobjec- er may be cut square or heart open so low in front that al- most any low bodice would be raiment for a ves- tal compared with it. There is nearly always more than one way of attaining an object, and if an exhibition of that kind ia an object an edict against low bodices would not prevent it. What is needed is self respect enough among women to draw the line and not permit any imasinary authority to interfere to the discredit ot their own judgment and sense of propriety. Fashion is made by the wills of many yielding to the ca- price ot one. Much as has been said about it, has been litt or even mod before ths wung to and fro, but the aker, and the distances shorter We recur eternally to the the simpler and more prac etting rid, more and round. or sq' est and womanly. sarily object tionable. Th cter; there is more than provisions which determine the ween the dress of man and the n, but we are certainly, and not- 1 that is said and done to the ally acquiring the knowiled: art in dress; and tie le of this is’ adaptation, differentiation. the third farmony. THE USE OF COLOR. The development of ¢ its employment is a reve tles of this ®% There have bee jor of late years®and fon of the possibili- the dress of the fature. eats of styles and ele- Sometimes ves; some- etimes the are all now and do not unwritten la’ ot th its alaptation to and tn monious employ Henry Irving tan Us the lesron the stage to armonize with the In Francesca di studies of color and all the more noticeable colors, and th ) greys, sea-blue, “i. Tinted white floating sleeves, pisk atiest wool, the flowing ines clasped at t aist with a belt of pale gold It has always been said with recard to colors Bpon the # that high reds and blues and lows were necessary to be ef! Nght. But that has been to the ac- Electrie lighting will the future upon = it favors bines, which in » green, In others black, by the use of colors, some shades are ina gasligit. Perhaps the prettiest figure pictures, so far as color is com i, are made upon the staze of Mr. 4 a In the adapta- ir not unfrequently transfers as atableau, or “situation” t of a dramatic scene; and the the environments, are then 4 and accurately copied. culties In regard to color In that art in color has not by A an manufacturers, after the limite atity of any choice rted has been e: ‘On the di of popular dress is t: Jet been attaines and ths shade or hi: 0 find it, or it by acci- it cannot be Is material Every one wn and sm mber and January a fruitle for these shades—in |; 1 dress fabrics, des of the . blue and cream, ordi- “d one or two nge, and of and greens are soon exhausted. ESTHETIC MODES. theticlsm, but while dropping absorbed the main Ideas into of modern dress. and the influ- especially as it comes is edon the stage. A ress of a “star” was a mere m the most expen- found; and it was in the newspapers of a performance, nt amount ex- has been rele- n finds arobe of aught of Liberty & euce is to us from t few y mployed to ey have re- deacy towards a dark, u: malized dress for the street, to wear and weather, and but the iudoor dress is be- @oming more an individualized with the Special needs and tastes of the wearer. We ave almost gutten rid of overskirts and drape- Which adapts Itse attracts no a Fy, except ion with tuile, and @ome of the short waiking dre gath- ers, box-pluti clusters of tu nore and = freer manshil and less snip- Ping and cutting into insizniticant parts; these are the obvious tendencies; and successtul work- ers Inthe depart: ‘of fine attire for zentle- Women will Le found studying pictures, and na- tural ¢: s of color, in order to satisfy of thelr best customers. The the revival of the double sleeve, was’ pat by Worth first, into the “Jans dresses of eve” March, ical of | and is so frequently employed by Ellen Terry, who has the donbie dress us the basis of nearly all her costumes; the reintroduction of the hip girdle and the ribbon belt, tied in front, the ends reaching low upon the middle of the skirt, nearly to its foot. All these, together with the pretty outside (chatelaine) pockets suspended at the side, the puffed elbow sleeve, tlie berthe, the pelerine cape, the open heart-shaped bodice, and the soft puffings used instead of flounces, are frag- ments possessing historic and pictured interest and significance, which have been taken from their original environment and put to modern uses. If any young lady wants a pretty dress of embroidered muslin, of tinted cotton, on linen batiste, she may alternate clusters of fine upright tucking, with close insertion put in lengthwise for the front ot the skirt, gather the tracer. edge it witha fine plaiting, make a belted bodice, and place over it abroad soft sash, tied in a huge bow, with long ends behind. This is one. and a very pretty form of the pop- alar ‘“housemaid,” and it will be fashionable during the coming summer. SOME RECENT TOILETS. This has not been a “dressy” season, partly because it has been a “depressed” season in business circles, partly because the fluctuations of the weather have created uncertainty in re- gards to needs and possibilities. Still there is always pienty of beautiful and costly dressingfit ‘one only happens to be in the right place to see it. and it is this which must stand to represent fashion; not the plain black or patchy, made- over costumes, which constitute so large a pro- portion of the actual clothing worn by women. A noticeable dinner dress was of thick dull gold satin, made with a very long fuil-plaited train. and plain front, striped with wide fine barbes of exquisite blade chan- tilly lace. Between the-barbes were series of heart-shaped leaves of embroidery executed in chenille. shaded from pale gold to brown. The sides of the skirt were faboted with lace, fine as the barbes, carried back and tied over the train. The bodice was draped with lace and finished with a Medici collar, edged with amber beads, opaque larger ones forming a necklace, earrings and comb. To the necklace a superb cross of diamonis was attached. The lady who wore this dress carried a transparent fan of black ace, which was a of beauty, and dainty was it, the frame work was pure ivory, thin and enriched with flies and delicate leafage in Ja- panese gold. The dinner at which this was worn was for eight persons, four of whom were ladies. All the toilets were handsome. Ove was a short dress of thick biack velvet with heliotrope satin front, and vest embroidered with jet. Another was of plush and satin in two shades of blue. the basque of plush edged with pearls, and cream lace vest, the plush draped at the sides over the satin front. and edged with cream lace. The fourth toilet was composed of a princess trainof smoke-colored velvet, over a petticoat of pink satin and lace, and she worea corsage boquet of roses, half red jacqueminots, the other balf pink (Catherine mermets). At an afternoon reception a stylish short dress was of wine colored plush, with trimming of gray fox fur; and vest of gray satin, outlined with fur. The hat was of velvet matching the dress, and was trimmed with gray feathers and pouf of cream duchesse lace, in which was a garnet crown-shaped ornament. The lady wore aset of garnets as ornaments. Another dress was of rock gray satin merveillenx with velvet trimmings, and vests contrasting with sleeve- less basque of steel netting. This also formed the crown of the bonnet, over a full upright crown of satin, the velvet brim divided into two putfings, being further enriched with steel- embroidered lacé and a butterfly of transparent gauze with enameled wings. An elegant dress worn at a ball was of ivory white silk plash, lined with satin, and trimmed with cream lace and ostrich tips. The bodice y open and cut square, and the drapery was caught up on one side with ropes of pearls, smaller ones x the bodice. A lovely dress worn upon the saine occasion was of pale ash gray silk, trimmed with opalescent beaded em- broidery and lovely lace. ‘A great many spangled tulle are seen, and tulle sprinkled with pendant ornaments of chenille, and, of course, sleeveless, the gloves reaching nearly to the shoulders. Dancing dresses are almost invariably short, and while this isa great advantage to the wearer, de- cidedly appropriate, if she is young, and adds greatly to the enjoyment ot musical motion; it also demands much care in the dressing of the feet. Black shoes certainly do not look well with short white satin and tulle dresses, yet they are quite commonly and there is rarely the attention to the detail which renders the cos- even by those who represent taste, and to whom money Is no object. A re- mark similar to this was made to a lady very richly, almost too daintily, attired for the occa- sion, at an eveni) reception which occurred recently. “I used to be so particu’ar about my shoes, gloves, hate, furs, para- sols, and every detail of my dress, down to my handkerchiefs,” she returned. “But I have gotten bravely overdt; it requires so much time. not to speak of the money. The period when dress is of supreme importance { ort: it rarely survives one year of mar- je. Look at me! I was obliged to wear my wedding dress to-night because I have not to go tothe expense of anew evening d I hardiy dare to move because, well. under th tin and lace are biack shoes, and [ have so often criticised the wearing of black shoes by others with white satin dresses.” Few plain tulles are seen this season; they are spotted, spangled or sprayed with silver or che- nille dots or leaves, with small pendant balls or fruit. Those are preferred that are dotted with white chenille or silver; in colors they must be accompanied by a velvet bodice, the color of the chenille; and so striking a costume requires beauty and jewels as fitting accompaniments. 4 much admired dress consists of a sapphire ‘satin train, plain, but very bouffant at the top, where it is lifted, and divided into two huge bows by skilfull manipulation. A straizht bod- ice forms a sort of jacket, and Is edged with large pearl beads. A full lace skirt falls over a front of sapphire blue plush, with tiger stripes and white lizbts in it, divided into panels b; openings which disclose a satin petticoat, ruf- fled with lace; around the waist ina soft sash. The neck is furnished with a small spring collar, which ts edged with pearis, and covered with in- terior lace tinish of the skirt. The full lace fronts are, however, considered somewhat neg- lige; evening and dinner dresses are more fre- queutly made with open, heart-shaped, or very deeply — pointed —bodices, upon’ which luce, tulle, or emoroidered trimmings are draped. The back of the skirt is often puffed up and mounted in ridiculously shelt-like style upon the bodice, dropping below the protuber- unce in perfectly straight folds. The height of the shoulders and the straight lines, only broken by this ungracefal attachment, make some very fashionable women absurdly like old town pumps with two handles and a shelf for the drinking cup. The **Matador” pocket, cut straight on a line with the waist, not rounded off at the corners, and worn with a full skirt and turn-downcollar, aribbon tor tie, and a full straight, plaited or tucked skirt, is a charming costame for young girls. The pocket may be made in velvet, vel- plush or corduroy, and edged with nar- pid or silver braid or beads. The skirt may be thin ereain wool or cotton, and the skirt red, old blue or gray wool, plaited or finished with hem and tack. EW STYLES IN UNDERWEAR. The new rage Is fortucking, and it cannot be executed with sufficient fineness for the fastid!- ous tastes of the cuitivated. Cotton and linen underwear didplays an enormous amount of ex- quisite tuckings, some of it executed in clusters, and alternating with needlework insertion,sume done in alternate wide and clustered lines, and still other garments in what is known as the “all over” style, which Is ulways pretty, when neatly executed and always admired. Very new and delicate effects are produced by groups of fine lenzthwise tuck Iternating with a flat strip cut and very delicately stitched on in a diamond pattern. Lace insertions and lace trimming have given way to this new tucking, and needlework mania, particularly the tuck- ing, and stitching on of flat strips, cut out In some little olive, Greek, leafy or diamond de- ign. Tucking {s not only more used than ever before tor drawers, chemises, night-dresses and combination garments, but it is also in high vogue for cotton skirts, both dresses and petti- coats, and Is especially used in the place of fluted ruffles, which have been so long employed, that Mating has become an accomplishment cf tne most ordinury laundress. Rules are now only put upon the back of the skirt, ascending in a series to the waist, and these are no longer fluted, but simply gathered and ironed plain. Gray under- skirts, made of @ thin drilling, are floanced in this way, and gathered in siightly half the way down. with a casing and drawing strings. These quite eave the necessity for the disazree- able bustle or “‘improver.” Most useful skirts for spring wear and for traveling are msde of plain gray or biack sat- teen. The black are particu!arty good for wear with black silk and wool dresses, and are pleas- ant wear in summer with jadines. A pretty way of making them is with he:n and tucks in front and at the foot, knife kiltings at the back, the upper part plain, as the material lays fat, and should be worn with e ruffled skirt under- neath. LINEN CUFFS AND COLLARS. The narrow rim of linen cuffs and collar has held its own for many years, and though it is asserted at times that cuffs have disappeared, that cafes have taken their place, or that the edg? ot the sleeve Is left bare, for the glove to be drawn over, it is noticed that cuffs and collars still remain, are still in demand, and show their dainty edge beyond the dark line of the sleeves, exactly as they have done for years past. The truth is that there is nothing that is so suitable as finish, or that gives so much distinc- tion to a neat tailor-made cloth dress as a narrow rim of linen cuff and collar, and there is no raffle, flace or plaiting of linen. or muslin, that isa_ proper substitute. Ruflles are untidy upon the edge of a serviceable sleeve, and soon look soiled and worn. White lace shows every blemish, and is too frail asa finish toa thick cloth dress. As for the bare edge, it is very unbecoming when gloves are taken off, and demand the use always of gloves of a peculiar length and make. which are not always obtainable for every oné. Besides, as remarked before, when the gloves sre re- moved, there isthe objection of the dark un- finished edge and bare extended wrist, the sleeve now, always leaving the arm uncovered, at its least attractive lower extremity. The linen cuff undoubtedly has its disadvan- tages; it is stiff. it is usually made too deep, and too large, and the sleeve is often so narrow that it iswith dimiculty it is adjusted and kept in piace. A button, or fastening by which it could more easily held in place, isa great desid— eratum; but it is not easy to adapt an instra- ment so simple, as it would have to be. to the varying requirements. Men haye their shirt sleeves to affix their cuffs to, besides which their sleeves are much wider at the wrists. The best way we know of at present is to open the sleeve a short distance upon the back, and close it with three small buttons and button holes. This affords an opening by which the cuff can be kept in place without any trouble whatever. There is a good deal in the selection of the right kind of cuffs. The newest and best for a narrow sleeve are the “Jersey” cufls, which are not more than half the depth of the old fashioned cuffs, are reversi- ble; a small closety linked button, or hook and eye button, the latter small and fiat, or elongated, would be advantaseous, the large wooden, round or oval sleeve button being very much in the way. The present narrow straight collar, fastened with a button and attached to a small single yoke. is exactly suited to the high, narrow standing collar, which remains fashionable aa ever, andis more generally be- coming than any other finish for cloth and wool dresses. JENNY JUNE. BLOODY DEE! ‘TENNESSEE. Desperate Fight on the Brink of a Precipice—Two Men Shot. A special to the N. Y. World from Nashville, Jan. 29, says: Persons from Pickett county to- day brings reports of a double murder. Some weeks ago an illicit still, ran by the noted moon- shineer, Riley Pile, was raided by Deputy Mar- shals Philips and McDonald. and the outfit was destroyed. Pile pretended to submit, but wait- ing his opportunity, suddenly drew a pistol and instantly killed McDonald, making his escape. Pile hid out in the mountains detying capture. When the excitement died out he reappeared among the people, who knowing him to be a desperate man, made no attempt to arrest him. Pile conceived an idea that a farmer named Da- vison had betrayed him totheraiders. He went to Davison and made the latter give him a note for $75, the value of the still destroyed by the reyenue men. The note fell due the other day, but Davison declined topay. Pile said he would have blood or money, and would give him two days to settle. At the end of that time, finding Davison working in a field, Pile, at the point of a gun, marched him up the mountain side to where a huge ledge of recks projects over an enormous pit. Pile told Davison he was going to place the nute on his forehead and col- lect it by pushing him into the pit. ‘A woman living near by had seen the two men, and knowing Pile’s desperate character de- spatched a boy in search of Davison’s brother Junk. The latter was found, and, accompanied by afriend named Oliver, was soon on Pile’s trail, arriving in sight just as Pile was about to shove his victim over the precipice. Oliver acci- dentally slipped, attractinz Pile’s attention. The latter instantly turned aud fired with his rifle, mortally wounding Junk Davison, who died in a few hours. The other Davison took to his heels, making good his escape, and leaving Pile and Oliver alone. Ol red with a pistol, severly wounding in the arm. A running fire ensued for three quarters of a mile, Oliver reloading his pistol three times. Pile finally Juinped behind a larze rock, and Oliver, afraid ‘to approach, gaveup the chase. Pile was joined the next day by his brother. who is equally well Known as a desperado, and both are now out- lawed. Citizens have organized parties and are searching the mountains, declaring they will lyneh the Piles as soon as caught. The mur- dered man stood well in the community. SARASATA’S ASSASSENS. The Society’s Existence Known ‘Througno Fiorida—Threa:s and Counter Threats, A special to the New York World from Tampa, Fla., Jan. 29, says: Despite the allegation of a Rochester, N. Y., gentleman that the Sarasata Assassination Society is a myth, the detalls al- ready wired are true in every particular. Nearly every paper in Florida 1s now denouncing the or- ganization and admitting its existence. Sarasata is on the Gulf coast, about seventy ities south from Tampa, far remote from railroad or tele- graphic communication. It now transpires that A. B, Bidwell, one of the organizers of the so- ciety, formerly lived at Baffalo, N. Y., and Dr. L. F. Andrews came from Kansas. They hada ritual of the most terrribie nature, and when an initiate objected to the devilish oath adminis- tered the blind would be taken from his eyes and his attention directed to a duuble-barrelled gun standing conveniently near. He would be informed that he could go oa or take its con- tents then and there, The latest Information from Sarasata is that the people were greatly excited by efforts to se- cure a change of venue for the prisoners. Ru- mors that an attempt would be made to rescue the captives were met with counter threats that such an effort would be apt to end in the lynch- ing of all the accused. Steps have been taken to secure further details, which areexpected to- morrow. 7 ee A Boys Death from Hydrophobia. Little Willie Smallman, the 12-year-old gon of abayman at Flatland, Long Island, was bitten by a vagrant cur about three weeks ago, but ap- parently recovered from the effects of the bito. On last Tuesday night, however, he was attacked with all the symptoms of hydrophobia, and de- spite the effurts of Drs. Smith and Zabriski, of Flatbush, who was called in, the boy died in the greatest agony early Thursday morning. Se US tla Snak: From the London Globe, According to official statistics, out of a grand total of 22,905 numan beings killed last year in India by “wild beasts,” no fewer than 20,667 fell victims to snake bites. But man had his re- venge on his ancient foe. In the Bombay Presi- dency alone rewards were paid for the deaths of nearly 300,000 venomous serpents, and the Pun- jaub, which had previously been rather apathetic in the matter, brightened up and gallantly slew its 50,000. The other divisions did not do so well, and the result is seen in a very high rate of death by snake bite in both Madras and Ben- gal. Europeans very rarely suffer harm from snakes, thelr boots protecting their feet, the part of the body which is struck by most ser- peats. The corbra rears itselfand strikes higher, when there istime to take up that attitude of attack, but by 80 doing it becomes plainly visi- versus Men. ble, and can be avoided or killed without much risk. In spite of the recorded sisughter, no meation is made that the snakes show sigus of becoming scarcer. Nor will that be likely to happen until the jungles which afford harborage to the enemy are cleared away. Soe A Different Tone. Friend—“T should think you would know the prices of all your drugs by this time.” Draggist—“Why, I do, of course.” “Then how does it happen that atter vou filled that prescription for that gentleman you spent such a time looking over that book before ou could tell him the pert You were try ing 2 find out the cost of the drags, weren't 00; 3 “Oh! no. I was looking over a commercial directory to find out how much he could afford to pay. Stonewall Jackson’s War Horse. The widow of General Stonewall Jackson hay- ing consented that his war horse Old Sorrel should be exhibited at the New Orleans E sition for the benefit of the Confederate diers’ H he began his tra Richmond to-day la charge of Malor 4-2 THE LAND OF MONTEZUMA. The Fever-pingued City of Gaaymas— A Great Commercial Pert of the Fu- ture—What Mexico will be Some Day Different Views of: the Mexica: Character. E Correspondence of Tax EvExIxG Stan. Borpers oF MexiC0, January 17th, 1885. Your correspondent, after traversing the mag- nificent domain which extends from British Columbia to the Mexican borders, and having embodied the results of his observations in brief letters, from time to time, to THe EVENING Star, has to-day siezed an hour from other duties to indite a tew lines on the land of the Montezu- Mas. Starting at the town of Benson, more than a thousand mile: below San Francisco on the southern Pacific, the Sonora railroad in less than twenty-four hours carries you with com- fort to the city of Guaymas, the chiet port of the state of Sonora, situated on the gulf of Califor- nia. This important Mexican city is shut in from the breezes of the guif by a succession of rugged or barren hills, which in the hot season reflect the burning rays of the sun upon It until the heat is like unto that of a huge oven. The country around for a semi-circle of a hundred miles is a dreary desert, destitute alike of wood, water, and grass, and only capable of supporting @ feeble growth of cactus and mesquit. The harbor of Guaymas ia one of the finest on the Mexican coast, aud but for the frequent visits of of the yellow fever the city would be the center of immense traffic and travel. Despite of this dreadful scourge, however, it is destined to con- trol a vast trade, on the completion of certain trans-continental lines, and especially, when by the agency of ocean steamers it is brought into close commercial relations with Australia and China. MEXICO'S FUTURE. But without dwelling longer on the mere de- tails of prominent localities, let me observe in general terms that Mexico Is a mighty empire lying on our southern borders, and that under the new civilizing forces which are now throb- bing from centre to circumference its future rowth and grandeur will astonish the world. in round numbers its present population ranges from ten to twelve millions, one-half of which consists of Mestizos or “mixed” people, and the other half is composed of Creoles and Indians. When Cortez conquered this country in 152 there followed a commingling of Spanish and Aztec elements of character. so that the genuine Mexican is a mongrel, with the blood of both the Spaniard and Indian flowing through his veins, and. as some have said, embodying the vices of both races with the virtues of neither. But this broad statement requires qualification. These are two extreme views of the Mexican, with the truth occupying the golden mean between them. The English traveler, Ruxton. represents the lower extreme. He says: ‘The Mexicans as a pcre. rank decidedly low in the seale of human- ity. They are deficient In moral as well as physical organization: they are treacherous, cunning, indolent, and without energy and cow- ardly by nature. inherent, instinctive coward- ice is rarely met with in any race of men, yet { affirm that in this instance it certainly exists and Is conspicuous.” The other extreme is sometimes advocated by the civil and ecclesias- tical rulers of their people. who claim for them the highest type of civilization, which in point of fact they do not possess. Many of their social habits and religious rites are to me simply re- volting, and in their present state of intellectual and moral culture I certafnly would not desire to dwell among them. ‘But then all reasonable allowances must be made for their early educa- tion and existing circumstances, ANOTHER VIEW OF MEXICAN CHARACTER, Brantz Mayer alludes-to them in the following well-considered words: “I think it,” says he. ‘ex- ceedingly reasonable tliat the Mexicans shonid be shy of foreigners. They have been educated in the strict habits of the Catholic creed, the cis- toms of the country are different from others, the strangers who visit them are engaged in the eager contests of commercial strite, and besides, being of different religion and language, they are chiefly from those northern nations whose tastes and feelings have nothing kindred with the impulsive dispositions of the a'dent south. In addition to the selfish spirit of gain that per- vades the intercourse of these visitors, and gives them no character by permanency, or sympathy with the country, they have been accustomed to look down on the Mexicans with contempt tor for their obsolete habits, without reflecting that they are not justly censurable for traditional usaves, which they had no opportunity of im proving by comparison with the progress by civilization among other nations. Yet, treating these peeple with the frankness of a person ac- customed to find himself at home wherever he goes, avoiding the egotisiws of natural preju- dices, and meeting therm in a spirit of benevo- lence, I have ever found them kind, gentle, hos- pitable, intelligent, benevolent, brave. I speak, however, of the Juste milieu of society. wher in resides the virtue and intellect of a country. When you meet a Mexican at home y e sire to be greeted with his familiar phrase ‘my house and all it contains is very much at your disposal, sir;” a kindly sentiment which those of pro- feasedly and higher civilization might more often cultivate to their credit. RAILROADS AS CIVILIZING AGENCIES. % The vast and comprehensive railroad system ot Mexico is proving one of the most powerful eivilizing agencies by affording direct and speedy transportation for all kinds of imports and exports, and thus bringing the population into contact with the various forms of foreign goyern- ment and education. Those who enjoy the facilities of these great hizhways of travel nat- urally acquire principles of taste and habits of dress and deportment which tend to elevate and liberalize the publiemind. No peoplecan be thoroughily civilized apart from physical as well as moral cleansing. Windsor soap Is one of the best civilizers of the world. A religion of dirt is alweys degrading. There is @ great deal of distilled wisdom in the old maxim, ‘cleanliness is next to godliness.” Those American cap- italists who have expended $60,0:0,000 in the construction of Mexican railways, whether they reap rich dividends or not from their invest- ments, have certainly contributed largely to the premotion of useful knowledge, and sound mo- rality among the dusky denizens of that count ry. DIVORCED JUST BEFORE DEATH. A Peculiar Contest to be Made Against the Will of Charies E. Hill. Syracuse, N. Y., January 29, 1885.-—Mrs. Elizabeth C. Hill, of Syracuse, N. Y., wife of Charles E. Hill, who died tn Yokohama, Japan, on October 9, and was buried in Jersey City last Sunday with high Masonic orders, will take steps to contest his will. In China, where he was largely interested in the exportation of tea to this country. he amassed a fortune of a mil- lion and a half. He obtained a divorce from Mrs. Hill only three days before his death on the ground of desertion, sie not putting in an an- swer, as she claims that the papers were not properly served on her by his attorneys from faine. Mr. Hill came to Syracuse on a visit In 1861, and met Mrs. Hill. who was then Miss Lizzie C. Adams and a society belle. After his return to China she left home and sailed alone for that far-off country, where they were married by an English clergyman. After twins had been born to them she left him and returned to Syracuse on account of cruelty,’as she alleged. “In the meantime one of the twins died. Three years ago Mr. Hill came to Syracuse and abducted the boy. who was then fifteen years old. He went to New York with him, and from there to New Haven, Conn., where the boy escaped and made his way back to Syracuse. The litigation in the case promises to be as noted a’ the famous Yates will contest, which occupied so much time in the New York courts. t ——_—po0—___ Cremation in Japan. One very old country goes.in for burning the bodies of the dead, and thabis Japan. And in Japan it is done in a most simple and inexpen- sive manner. One who has ‘recently witnessed a Japanese cremation thus describes it: It took piace in Tokio, in a little quiét house in an out- of-the-way place—a house with a tall chimney, and looking like bd aly Berd foundry. Within this building the writer found a couple of small tubs resting upon a pile of fagots, whlch tubs contained each a ly. Over a brisk fire the two bodies, with the receptacles in which they , Were soon entirely consumed, nothing remaining but teeth and. bones, which relics were given to relatives for sepulture. The cheapness of the process certainly recommends it tothe Japanese. There are three classes of cremation in these Japanese crematories. The first cornet $6.75; the second, $2.40; the , ——_——_+-¢ > —______ Suicide of a Week-Old Bride, ‘Thursday evening, in Jackeon county, Geor- iatng fous a jlat in treatable Her mated ns a ler namegras eth Healy, she had been married aw being a wid- ower with new relation proving TRICKS OF MACHINES, ‘Tbe Snaccountable Stops and Starts which Puzzle Mechanics—A Locomo- tive’s Queer Freak—Watches, Engines and Sewing-Machines That Have Only Needed a Little Hest. From the Philadelphia Times. “There are times,” said a well-known machin- tat yesterday, “when nearly all machines get cranky. The trouble fs often a simple one, and is not infrequently owing to the machinist not knowing his business, But that is not always | the case. The very best mechanic in the world gets hold of a nut sometimes that is difficult to erack. A machine, no matter of what kind. may work perfectly for months, and then one day something goes wrong with it. The machinist looks at it, examines it, perhaps even takes it to Pieces and puts it up again, but of no avail; the machine remains like a balky horse, which noth- ing will make go. At last the machinist gets tired and goes home, sick of pottering with the troublesome thing. “He comes to work the next day, perhaps having forgotten the previous troubles, touches a handle here, a wheel there. drops a little oil in half a dozen places, turns on the steam and off she goes without a murmur, as if nothing had ever happened. No, I can’t exptain it—neither could he, The only conclusion to be drawn is that he omitted on the occasion ot the stoppage those little necessary touches of handles, turning of wheels and droppings of oil. . But there are cages of a slightly different nature. 4 MACHINE THAT DID NOT CUT STRAIGHT. “For instance, [had an order a lttle while agoto make a paper-cutting machine from a certain pattern. I made it. When it was put to work it was found that it cut the paper with acurve instead of straight. Now, of course I could remedy that by a mechanical application, and did. However, I also went to work and made another machine exactly like the first in every respect. The second machine is perfectly successful. Yet if youtake the two machines to pieces and place every piece of each machine alongside of the other I'l venture to say there is not a hair’s-breadth of difference in them. I can’t account for the difficulty with the first. I only yew how to overcome it, and I did over- col “Now. here is a case of a trouble I had with an lustrument, the mechanism of which I was not very well acquainted with. A short time ago my telephone wouldn't work. I couldn't converse through it at all. The only thing I heard was aterrible buzzing noise. I called up the operator at the central station, but he couldn’t account for it and sent @ man around. He came und looked at the instrument, got con- nected with the central and went away. Pres- ently I wanted to use it again, but I found the trouble was as bad as-ever. A second man was sent around to discover the cause. Afterawhile he found out that the connection with the ground wire had become disturbed. The wire was loosened, and only formed just sufficient circuit to convey sound. The shaking ot my engines and machinery caused a vibration, which made the buzzing sound. The man reconnected the ground wire. the circuit was completed and strengthened, and I have now no more trouble with the phone. Almost all the troubles with engines, machines and complicated instruments of all kinds are caused by just some simple mat- ter such as this. A thoroughly competent man may overlook the cause and another «may walk up and ‘spot’ it instantly. WHY WATCHES STOP. “Watches are so small and their mechanism is s0 delicate that it requires a careful inspec- tion to find the cause of any trouble,” said a jew- eler. “The causes of sudden stoppage are very various, but among the most frequent is want of oil, A drop of oll in a watch will last from eighteen months to two years as a lubrica- tor. At the end of tliat time the works become dry and considerable wear ensues. watch may run for five years before it stops. If a watch is brought to me I cannot always say instantly what is the matter, though I often have to make some statement to satisty a tad, or an inconsiderate man. Sometimes I 1 had a watch to ‘cure,’ and have taken it to pieces, but do all I would I could not get it right. Then I lay it on one side and go to work on somethi . When T come back to the wateh it is just as likely as not that everything will slide into place as easily as possible. | course, the reason of my troubie has been a lit tle nervous Lhave been tired or anxious, 8 before returning it to the owner in good working order. Then per- haps in two or three days he brings it back stopped again. That metimes a poser, but in such a case I put the watch in my pocket and carry it round with me fora few days. Hang- ing a watch on the rack, which is perfectly still and of even temperature, is not. a fair test. By carrying it in ny pocket I often discover the trouble, which is generally a very simple one.” AN 01 ATE SEWING-MACHIN: “Sewin’-machines are jest as pesky an’ cranky as old women,” said old Tom McClane, one of the oldest shoemakers in Piitla phia. ‘I'ye worked/em all. There's Mackay machine you've heerd so much talk about, the that lias a royalfy on. Leastwise there's ation on that matter goin’ on just now. About fifteen years ago I was workin’ at James A. Stevens & Bros.’ place, on Filbert street. Old Jimmy Stevens died a year or two ago, and then his brother gave up business and went to Bos- ton. I used to work at one o’ Mackay’s, and was considered a pretty good hand. I thought I knowed that machine like a book, but it went ack on me one day. It played possum for two days. It went so stiff that I coulda’t do nothin’ with it; then it broke all my threads, and at last it took and tore about an inch and a half into one of my uppers. “Well, I couldn't find out what was the mat- ter. I guessed the thing was bewitched. Any- how, I went out and bouzht some spirits 0” tur- pentine and cleaned up every part of it; then I oiled it afresh and let him be for a whole day. I "member me an’ my ole woman took a holiday that day an’ spent it on the river ina De are steamer, Well, I don't know what did it, whether it was the rest had pat it in good humor, ortie cleaning, or the oil, bat when I went down to the shop next day the old thing went along like a house afire, as though there hadn’t never been nothin’ the matter with it.” AN ENGINEER'S STORY. “Ever had any bother with my engine? Ed. Murray, an engineer on the Pennsy? railroad. ‘No, 1 can't say I ever did; but I've heard old Jake Finlay, who used to run the ex- press between Philadelphia and New Yort;, tell & queer story of a trouble he got into once. He was considered a good engincer, and was un- doubtedly a thoroughly capable man. It was one winter a good many years.ago he was run- ning his usual engine on the evening express. He reached Trenton safely and stopped there twenty minutes for refreshments. The rest was over, the passengers all seated, the line signaled ‘clear,’ the bell rang, and old Jake took off the brake and turned the steam on. The engine gaye a sort of a feebie kick, and the big driving- wheels revolved halt a dozen times, but didn't grip the rails, and the train didn't move. Jake thought the train was too heavy, so he backed It a littie to gain an impetus. Then he put on the steam full in to go forward; but the old engine just kicked again, and the driving- wheels went round again, but the train never moved. Jake got mad at last and got off the cab to look for the trouble. He shouted to the fireman to turn on steam. His order was i obeyed, and without the slightest trouble the engine glided out of the station as if she were on @ soaped board. Jake was so worried that it preyed on his mind, and about six months after he resigned his position. 1 haven't the least idea what was the matter, but I guess Jake had forgotten something he ought to have done, and the fireman being just told to let her go, went through the proper business. Jake thought the engine was bewitched, and died in that belief.” ee Horses to be Watered Before Fed. From the London Ficdd. Bearing in mind that the stomach of a horse is small in proportion to the size of his frame, Still the | under a with A BATTLE IN A JUNGLE. ‘The Story of Stewart's Victory. A BRILLIANT STRUGGLE AGAINGY THE GREAT ODDS OF TEN TO ONE—THE CAMP ON THE NILE—TUE MAEDI'S CAUSE PRONOUNCED HOPELESS. Loxpox, January 29.—Gen. Stewart's forces are strongly entrenched on the Nile, and are confident that they can hold their position against great odds. They have the river at their back. Gen. Gordon's steamers are securing supplies and material, and another British col- umn is on the march to join them. Metemneh is still held by the rebels with a small force, and Ollivier Pain, a Frenchman, is said to be in com- mand. It is said that the mahdi sent 12,000 fa trovps to annihilate the British, and has .000 more on the way; but all the prisoners agree that his cause is hopeless now. It is re- ported that he is sending away all his valuabies To a place of safety, and this is taken as an indi- cation that be himself is grewing doubtful of success, From the eastern Soudan, however, intelligence is received which indicates that Os- man Digna, the rebel chieftain in those parts, has nv intention of giving up the struggle. Spies wno have been mingling with the hostile tribes report that he is resolutely determined to. continue the war. They say that he is even re- sorting to the desperate measure of arming the women and compelling them to do military service. TROUBLE ON THE RED SRA. The news concerning the operations of the unfriendly Arabs along the Red Sea, too, con- tinues to grow more serious. Massowabh is al- most in a state of siege, with gloomy prospects of relief. The Arabs make attacks in force al- most every night upon Suakim, and during the dark firing against the garrison is almost con- tinual. The garrison has been greatly strength- | ched by the arrival of 400 British troc N has been received of a desperate attack upon the Galavat garrison, in which 100 of the garrison and 800 of the enemy were killed. Advices re- ceived at Hamdab at eight o'clock last night concerning the expedition which left there tor Berber on Monday last under General Earle stated that the Biack Watch and Staffordshire Regiments arrived at the Kabdel-Abak cataract. Betore reaching the cataract the cavairy scouts, who were two miles in advance, excha' fire with some hostile natives. The Arabs made the attack, but were soun driven back by the cavalry and the camel corps when these came up. Soon after this these two corps captured the village of Warag. A number of cattle and sheep were also seized. The Arabs retreated in the direc- tion of Birti. Further news from General Earle states that his total force amounts to 2,500 men. They are proceeding, partly in the whale boats up the Nile, and partly by the road on the river bank. force started for Abu Hamed, two days’ march distant. ANOTHER STORY OF THE FIGHT. A vivid description of the battie m the desert on the 19th is given by the correspondent of the London News, who telegraphs from Geueral Stewart's camp, near Metemneh. “We sighted the river at daybreak,” he says. “The enemy were gathered about the ridges opposite on the banks of the Nile, about an hour's march from us. We were burning to make an d¥tack, but were anxious to save the men, after their lonz march without food. General Stewart selected the best position possible, and formed a square which received the enemy from all sides. the rebels were seen swarming and advan toward us. Within half an hour they opened fire on our front, right and left, and until long past midday continued to assail us with a per- fect storm of bullets. In spite of the con- tinuous fire comparat British were wounded. Genera! Stewart was wounded early in the action, when several other officers at men were killed. Having strengthened our po- sition and repulsed the eR | prepared to adva ¥ ng ert returning the vol s the rebel hor: ve, but were very steadily foot attempted to mowed down cach time. The rebels splendidly sustained our fire. At last the square reached the river bank and fortitled one of the villages. Some of the men then returned to bring in the wounded. THROUGH A DENSE JUNGLE. The first part of the march was orderly, quiet ‘and steady. Later the route lay: thro! dense juagle and groves of mimosa, wiv confusion and upr the of the native drivers de- layed progress a couple of hours and put the The rebels, concealed in Yhe Brit- enemy on the alert. the tall grass, kept up a valling fire. ish were gradually worn out, being to strike back. Stewart's wound delayed the counter-a the square until 2 o'clock in the afternoon. Rebel riflemen possessed the heigits, while their horsemen closed the roads in our rear. A! the square moved slowly from the zarebva all fe} that their fate depe When the square ste deliyered yolley afte y ness. At last the eriticat m rebel spearsmen ad against the little square. itish never Wayered a moment. When they saw the foes coming they cheered lustily and delivered a fire £0 deadly that the Arabs dropped in the lines ad recoiled and retired in broken array. Mean- while another dense mass of rebels from the south was stopped by shells from Norton's guns. At this juncture theenemy’s redoubtable reserve of horsemen, standard-bearers and fanat- ical followers rushed azainst the square, but was again repulsed by the withering fire delivered by ourmen. Their retr this time was final, for they renewed the attack no more. TEN TO ONE. “‘1n themeantime the men left behind in the zareba to guard the wounded watched the Square disappear over the hills and were un- aware until next morning whether the square had reached the Nile sately or had been oyer- whelmed. When the men were seen returning 't day they were greeted with loud and heart- cheers. “After reverently burying the dead whole force marched to the Nile. where they vere allowed to bivouac in peace aud unity, the enemy making no sign beyond the beati: drums during the whole night. A European was cleariy distinguished in the rebel ranks. The British have captured the unarmed rebel boats. which will be yery userul to them. All the officers and men are in excellent health and sprits. The British square numbered 1,200 and the force of the enemy was estimated at near 12,000. When the square returned to the zareba the day after the fight many of the garrison wept for joy.” In the fight, which oceurred within three miles ot the Nile, many of the British troops were in alriost a fainting condition from lack of water. small detachment of cavalrymen to obtain a sup- ply of water from the river by cufting their way threugh the enemy's forces. This dangerous movement was accomplished with less loss of life than might have been expected, and enough water was obtained to revive the troops and enable them to continue the attack. THE ARMY HOSPITAL. After General Stewart was wounded he was cartied to the fleld hospital by a party of officers and men, who were moved to tears by the sight of his sufferings and the fortitude with which he endured them. Mr. J. A. Cameron, the Standard correspondent, was shot in the back while he was kneeling behind a camel. He was buried on the fieid by bis -omrades. General Wolseley telegraphed from Korti this morning that he had received reports from the surgeons at Gubet, stating that General Stewart is doing well. No attempt has been made to extract the bullet. The bullet entered the thigh, and is now lodged in the region of the groin. The hospital for the wounded and disabled of Gene- ral Stewart's command is pitched on the bank of the Nile. They are all housed In cosy tents and are provided with comfortable beds ob- tained from the natives. In view of the many hardships and depriyations which the wounded men have had to suffer and the almost constant moving to which they have been subjected, most of them are making wonderful progress towards recovery. In the cases of about two- thirds of the wounded the injuries are very bad, and among this class a great number of surgical be Sipe ye are still necessary. AS many as pos- sible ofthe wounded have been sent back to Gakdul wells. Supplies in the vicinity of the s it he requires feeding often, and, though three times a Gay is sufficient, four times is better. Unlike human beings, horses should drink be- fore they eat, because, owing to the contorma- tion of the horse, water dces not remain in the (rapt through it into a large in- e cecum. If a horse be fed fit ing through the stomach woul with it les of food, and sel at Gubat are plentifal and the army will ve to make no demand on their base of sup- he A the natives continue to bring their pro- luce in. ————__—_-+-_~____ A Word for the Rink and Rinkers, From the Lancaster Examiner. Girls who do not bake bread must have some- thing todo. Far better the rink than nothing. A sensible man would not go to askatingrink to horse drink much as he likes. | find a wife, but: aremen who do. The world isa four sae Gay ke Wil aaror aleraaameoleak stan eee For this bed ric ias hg aiding el Tee Be ors Pe ee as Pee oe Mood, and this, with the strong work done a] Websters or Carlisles. The syn has its spots. bunter, always prodi feverishness, which a After the capture of the village of Warag Earle’s | Colonel Sir Charles Wilson ordered a | Rep star coven cure RED STAR COUGH CURR CONTAINS NO OPIATES, CONTAINS N) OPIATES. CONTAINS NO OPIATES, CONTAINS NO OPIATES. Dr. JaMES A. STEUART, M. D., Commissioner of Health, Balumore, Maryland: “It contains no mineral matter, opiates, poisons or emetics, and It happily supplants the objectionable, and not um frequently harmful features of other cough mix- CONTAINS NO POISON. CONTAINS NO POISON, CONTAINS NO POISO¥. ‘AINS NO POISON, con’ Dr. SAMUEL K. COX, D. D., Practical and Ana- lytical chemists, Washington, D. C., says: “IC 18 enulrely free from polsons, opiates, and emetics— a thing which not one cough medicine tn ten can boast—and must prove aboon to thousands es pecially to mothers who justly dread these danger: | ous drugs.” CONTAINS NO EMETICS. CONTAINS NO EMETICS, CONTAINS NO EMETIC8, CONTAINS NO EMETICS, Dr. D. F. PEN NGTON, D.D.&, Balt Maryland, says: “{ have used RED STAR COUGH | CURE tn my family and found it a prompt and sure Temedy for cougis and colds. I experienced none Of the bad results which accompany the use of other cough remedies. - A FEW DOSE: A FEW DOSES CURE. CURE A FEW DOSEs C A FEW Dos Second National Bank, Wash- ington, D. C., writs: I heartily recommend Rep | Stak Covey Cure. A few doses suMced to check and reiieve a violent cough. 3 CURE. Mr. F. A. STIE! AGREEABLE, PROMPT, SURE. Mr. EDWARD WILSON, the popular actor, late ofthe John MeCutlougu company: 1 used Rep Star Coven Cunt for a severe cold and hoarseness, | A few doses cave Instantaneous relief; its contlue | ance cured me. ILis agreeable, prompt, sure, NO BAD EFFECTS. NO BAD EFFECTS. Col. ROBERT G. KING, for ten years Deputy Collector U more, Mary Used tt in my | excellent and free from the depressing effects of the opium and morphla preparations whlca are ite variably given for coughs. SAFE AND RELIABLE AND RECIABLE. AND RELIABLE SAFE AND RELIABLE. SAFE SAFE The RED STAR COUGH CURE 1s the result of mostextensive research and experiments on our Part, with a view of obtaluing a purely vegetable Specific for the cure of coughs, colds and the throat and lung affections—a remedy at once prompt and Teliable as well as positively safe and harmless, Such a remedy we guaranteesRED STAR COUGH CURE to be. A single trial will prove the truth of Unis claim. 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