Evening Star Newspaper, November 3, 1883, Page 2

CITY AND DISTRICT. UNDERGROUND WIRES. The Cable Now Being Laid in This City. OXF THOTSAND FRET COMPLETED FACH DAY— THY METHOD OF MAKING AND TESTING THR CABLES—A TALK WITH THA ELECTRICIAN IN cus ard Underround Cable company ace! laying their cables from the aud slong B street northwest, from Capitol street to tst street, and thence | t extend it hto the different parts in their permit granted 3 on the 9th of Octo! - ay at present about four niles of cable, with wires for + and two Morse telegrap rk. Oa 7 5 nwidred feet of cable and “t Phe superintendent about A THOPSAND FEET EACH DAY. f men they now have the iin a week orten days. have been in nse on “0 months They co: z te, said to be the | hown. and ences at an inch and a qu: ted trom the 1 they cag, in no with each other. now Th ARE MADE. bles are made at the company’s facto- a the process, the superin- dtoaSrar reporter, was very x all the force necessary to wires are conducted | The two men anifactare it be pressure of 3.000 pounis to pressure forces the liquid a the wires, forming the ave this been and an unlimited bumber lead aron cabie. As 1 united in might b Mr. Henry V: > coin n Hoevenberzh, the el the construction, told y that he had tested ali the cables 2 found them perfectly satis- in charze of TESTING THE CABLES. trument used ip testing the wires Is a alvanometer, such as is ‘ansinitiing messages across the At- and is attached to the end of the in the vaults of the Capitol. This instrn- th says, Is so delicate ‘tion in the once discov- that if there w ble at any y ilust jd be ote or s.nall the detect might . rate fius he placed one hand on the n the lead surroundiny it, and the tnsirument became “This cable.” he said. “is J and will never need to be disturbe vd. It will last indefinitely u~and years. It cannot be injured unless ne Cuts it.” iat edeet would a severe storm have upon i THE STAR. we Whatever ne it is: thi burg was in | «the and was not dis- in the lea “is that Fenders the head wires. “Could y cht wires under- aa the telephone tric ight wires won! T at would be the oniy pane wsed fur e! r. } the overhead wires? ‘The cables cost about three hundred dollars more, in the first instance, but in the Jong run I be that the cables are much ie tr. The rhead wires need constant attention, while these, once laid, are there for- ever. What do you think the prospect Is for this underzround system to become universal?” asked the reperter. “f think tm ail lai come 50, but that ¢ tion of the citles it 1s bound to be- pends greatly upon the ac- The telegrayh com not do away with their ly, though new com- prefer to adopt the un- . The city autho: f rreound & has able, will doubt- iting of the streets is - 4s the cuts are ney rep and hal? that wid. aud pounded over as fast } t a messaze as far by tel- le as by the overhead sys h farther. de seat at | there is u I think that a message could st 10) miles across the cable, as re wilt it.” ‘The War.” rof Tue EvEstse Stan: issue of Saturday last nimuanication, under the above itle. relative toe the noble and laborious duties fellto the lot of woman during cur iate and fer which she has never received ir and just compensation. Indeed, her val- uable services have not even been recoguized by any act of Congress, so far as 1am informed. 1 sonally acquainted with a most excellent iding in this neithborhoad, who red her services as a nurse in the Union 4 who, throwsh tatizue and exposure while attending to her arduous and responsible duties, became aflicted with inflammatory rhea- miatiem, from which she has been a great and almost helpless suiferer ever since. Now, can minded persoo doubt fur a moment but ly is as Justly entitled to a pension wer who ‘may have lust aleg or an the service, for she is more helpless by her suilerings are greater than nine- are se maimed? This is but could be cited at injustice has been done the wo- men who served inthe army in their woman! I therefore hope ‘the © ar ¥ | ect will be | attention of Congress, and } ation will be had in the mat- f wrong will be speedily re will be found in C mn tv tuke some action in h the womea do not hold the JS. H. ter by which thi: corrected. owe Standing Armics, apposed that a nation’s ae is improved by army life, but such is opinion of Prof. Mumphry, president of | sh Sanitary institute, who said in a re cent lectnre that under the most favorable clr- eumstaaces, and in spite of the good influence of drilt and discipline upon the physical and mental qualities of the men, a standing army was to some ex! ly & detervorata ch as by the selecting wiation the best speci- n the comunity just Te Tring upen the vigorous period of life, and they were subjected to a hich fate of mortalit ally from lune disease, which was attributed to what had been termed “vitlated barrack atmosphere.” as well as from ures of otber Kinds. The augmentation ot an . therefore, directly debilitated a nation and lessened its fighting power by the drain it made upon the best bone and blood of the fand. as serious as the drain which it made upon gold, even if we took into account nd tightly with cotton | ® | but th | d-enarge of dut ‘THE GOLDEN HAIR CRAZE. Ladies Left Stranded b: e Becedin; ‘Ride of Fashion. . THEIR PLAINTIVE APPEALS TO HAVE THEIR HAIR RES.ORED TO ITS NATURAL COLOR—A CHAT WITH AN AVENUE DRUGGIST, “It ts all on account of that horrid old Aureo- Hne!” she cried, as she flounced into a fashion- able drug store on the avenue. “I could just sit right down and cry,” and she stuck out her «ips, ran her Angers through her frouzy mud- colored bangs and looked miserable. After she had iad her say and gone a Star Teporter, who always takes an interest in dis- tressed females, asked the druggist what could occasion such anguish in one 80 young. uh, she's been using Aureoline to bleach her rand now that light hair is going out of lashion she’s ail broken up, 80 to speak. That is to say, she wants to make ber hair dark acan, and instead of getting to its natural colorit has turned out a dirty nondescript Lue, and she’smad about jt.” “Yosy thagand otter siintiar drugs. For the e or four golden hair has bs druzs for bleaching aveat demand. You would y r are mostly ed to women whose hair or who have paturaiy dingy, it de. “Is this not very injarious?” “Yes. Hair once subjected to these bleaching esecan never b restored to its natural And there's where the trouble comes in. hair is zoing out of fashion now, and all ; ars ayo were crazy to ye pmething to bleach us to give them someth to to restore th There are many. how- ‘who still cling (o their ty a great deal, andare very personal "appearance, made from their own formulas. J keep their hair always at that shade they most admire. These never give us any trouble about restoring the color of their hair. They know what the g when they dye it, and they let it stay trom simple. inexperienced w their hair just to see how it looks,’ or to be in fashion.” . Here he was interrupted by the entrance of a stylish-looking lady with black eyes and a pro- fusion of golden hair, who spoke very confl- dent!y to the clerk, and getting a little square bottle done up in pink paper. hurried out to her carriage, whieh was waiting at the door. Asshe passed out the di the reporter and whispe particular about have com- their pounds ha A Tale of Two Cities. “Gath.” in the Cincinnati Enquirer., With all the abuses of Washington city, it Is & greater source of light and hope to this rezion of country than Baltimore, Richmond, Freder- ick and twenty such places pat together. Balti more city does not develop except as might be expected. If It is possibleto go wrong on any subject, that town is sure to go wrong. The strong baad of the zovernment preserved its nants trom the miseries of the rebellion, y never had any gratitude. Wash- ington has sucked from Baltimore apparently allowed. The the merits the latter once w: women of Washington to- than those of Baltimore. It use said that Baltimore had the best living; it has not a well kept hotel, and the restaurants nce were fared there have passed out. at least three restaurants for ladies and men in Washin which can serve ny thing better ti aurants of altimore on than timore. T went to the theater there with the wife of a promiment general in the army. It wasa theater where once a zreat convention met at the eve of the war. There were not in the house over two hundred per- sons. and the performance was a soulless imi- ation of a late piece iu New York. timore is the most » United ismore talk in it a and such thing, erees, town Is its s has the best, that it the-present day ali Know their pedi- But the shadow on the teousness, its belief that it cannot learn anything from T will give a conversation that 1 bad in Washington with a prosperous man on ‘t. He was an intense southern man, father. I have understood, was the courier who brought the news of Nat Durner’s insurrection fity years ago from the governor of Virginia to the President. Iwas therefore surprised to hear him say only yesterday: “1 went over to Baltimore to see Tom Winan’s new house. From what the Baltimore people said, I thouzht it would be a wonderful thing. Why. my dear sir, we have got fifty houxes in Wasi inston, that we don't brag about, that put it in the sround. Baltimore has got to be a very insipid place. The people come driving to Washington on all the railroads they can find, and [hardly see anybody who knows anytuing about Baltunore.” ee The Doctor. It ts the doc mark his easy grace, ‘The Lind!y statle that lehts a thoughtful face, Carefully bending over the well-wa bed, Where the poor sufferer rests his weary heady Dra ing the cu rial just a littie wider, {scarce disturbs the spider. And now ar we this morning? but so so. Wet Kome was not bulit ina day, you know; You step a Say, Dut poorly through the night, ut better owrd morning -that’s all right: ‘The movement of the pulse fs somewhat quick, But that one must expect when one is sick. Pray let me see your wngue. ‘There, that will do. Youll be 2 new mn In a day or two; YT ather is against you, damp whd raw— ‘The like of tt I tink I never saw; You want a Uttle rest and change of diet: Good nursing above all, and perfect quiet: Yes, on the whole, best’ keep your bed to-day, And don’t iet busthe-s trouble you, by the way. Your liver’ssomewhat torpid, noting more; Good morning, take your mixture as before.” jence Uo the parlor, writes a And. bowing Biandty, takes his itave—ana fee. Heroism ana Its Recognition. From the Montgomery Advertiver. In the quiet cemetery at Marion, tn this state, is a monument that few people, now liv- ing. have any khowledge of, thouzh it com- memorates an act of heroic devotion in humble life more worthy of commemoration than many that are heralded to the world by the trump of flame. It is a plain marble shaft, perhaps eighteen feet high, surmounting @ granite pe- destal, aliin simple and unostentatious style and taste. The inscriptions on the four sides of the shaft tell the story, and are as follows; On the west: D. “Harry, a servant of H. Talbird, D. D., president of Howard college, who lost his life | from injuries received while warning the stu- dents it the burning of the colleve building on, the aight of Qctover 1, 1854, aged 23 years."” On the south: “A cunsistent member ofthe Baptist church, he illustrated the chara Christian ser- acter of a vant, faithful unto deata.” ‘Un the east: “AS a grateful tribute to his fidelity, and to commemorate a nobie act, this monument has been erected by the students of Howard college and te Alabama Baptist convention.” Oa the north. “He was eaployed as a waiter In the college, and when alarmed by the flames at midnight and warned to escape. replied: ‘I must wake the buys dirst,” and thus saved their lives at the cost of his own.” This is all: bat “storied urn nor animated bust!" would teilno more or better illustrate lish devotion to trust and bravery in the than was displayed by this humble . The beroes of this life are uot ali found among the great men of earth. Seta a From Caztarl, Sardinia, comes the news that @ band of brigands attacked a train in the Bo- norva tunnel. It was a special train, and car- | Tied the pay of the railroad officials. On coming to a standstill in the tunnel the baadits tried to take it by storm. A company ot soldiers on board wanted to see them, aud their attempted “robbery a !'Americaine” was a sad failure. A Freneh inventor, who has patented-a ma- chine for the use of concentrated solar rays as a | general motive power, has set up three of his the diminution of gold-producing power eonse- quent on the abstraction from the labor market of so many inen in the prime of life, and it was less easily repail The Winnebaco Indi Pay rolls in Wisconsin. fi Of whom 624 are females. on tha government edwiadted to 1,174, | Maciines in Algeria for the French government. He is now carrying on experiments at the island ) of Porquerolies, near Hyeres, in France, where he is threshing Indian corn and raising water by the action of the sun's rays. Phillips Exeter Academy has, the Portsmouth Chronicle says. 2 student who boards himselt on fourteen cents a day. IN THE FAR WEST. Morals, Climate and Worldly Pros- pects of the Pacific Slope. WRALTH OF SAN FRANCISCO AND PORTLAND— INVALIDS ADVISED NOT TO SEEK HEALTH ON THE SHORES OF THE PACIFIO—THE STATE OF MORALS AND SIGNS OF IMPROVEMENT—THE STAR OF BMPLRE TO REMAIN KAST OF THE MIS- SOURL, Correspondence of THz Evewree Star. Benicia, Cau., October 25, 1883. This is the third year the correspondent of Tue Evextxa Star has spent on the Pacific coast, and during this period he has trayersed the immense tract of country extendins from San Franeiseo to British Columbia. embracing in its exteat California, Oregon and Washington. Territory His observations on climate, sce- hery. soil, products, population, &c., have been Presented to the public through the columns of your popalar jouraal; and now, before leaving this coast for Washington, D. C., he wishes to | indite afew more thoughts for the benefit of your intelligent and Inquiring readers. THE NORTHERN PACIFIC. The completion of the Northern Pacific rall- | road has inaugurated a new era in the history of this great northwestern world. It provides a t aad easy mode of transportation for the udes who are seeking homes in tnis vast . Where lands are cheap and labor profit- i; and, on the other hand, It opens the mar- kets of the world to the immense products of these masnificent rivers, fields and_ forests. Puvet sound fs now but afew days’ distant from St. Pau! and Chicao, and the same sleep- ers run from New York to Portland, 01 Until recently Washington Territory and Urezon were reached in rough stages, over sandy plains and dai jountains, or by going a thou- about the same distance on the Pacitle an, amid the heavy fogs and boisterous winds of a recky coast anda proverbially perilous bar at the’mouth of the Columbia. But the disad- vantaze: and perils of frontier life are among things of the past, aud the conveniences and comforts of civilization are not only the blessings of the east, but of the west THE CENTERS OF POPULATION on this coast are first and foremost San Francis- co, which is daily growing in wealth and im- portance. Eighty-three of its citizens are mil- Honaires, whose fortunes are estimated at from $30,000,000 to $40,000,000. The site of the city is Not attractive, but it abounds in palatial man- siousand mammoth business hdus The wares of Uriental and of Occidental civilization will ever meet and mingle at the Golden Gate. Across the bag lies Oakland, a most reiined aad beauti- fal city of fifty thousand inhabitants. It is suffi- ciently remote from the damp fogs and cold breezes of the sea to render it healthiul and pleasant, and as a place of residence it possesses many advanta:es ov greater sister. Portland, Oregon, 1s said to be the wealthiest city of its size in America. Its streets and squares are projected on a magi nt scaie,and it commants a large share of trade and com- merce woth by land and water. The largest ocean steamers find easy entrance to Its fine barbe Olympia, Seattle and other places on Puget sound are thriving towus, and give promise ofa prosperous tuture. THY CLIMATE OF THE SLOPE. The air here, however, is damp and the winters ruzzed, Walla Walla, W. T., les east of the C jé mountains, in the inidst of a ricuitural rezion in the very heart of a of singular fertility and beauty. The te here cu:npares with that of your own capital city, with the £0 ad caprisious and therefore favor- able to muscular aad nervous disorders. ‘This young ¢.ty, with a population of gay five thou- sand, labors under tae disadvantaze of not being ed on the great ventral lines of trade aud travel Bnt there are several enterprises now in progress that wiil soon bring it into more direct relations with the great currents of nd industry, spowane Ful ld, is detizhifully Loe; a town only a few years ed on the main branch of the Northern Pac fic, not far from the Idaio line. It is surre has a iided by vast forests of timber, and aterfail, which in respect to volume, tum and majesty, make it a second i It is possible this may prove to be the sile of that vreat northwestern city which is to wlorn the annals of the twentieth century Various localities are competing for this pi The best climate | have Known in this brog beit of territory is found in southern California, wiere the winters are sinply exquisite, and where the summer heats are tempered by ocean breezes, and yet it must be confessed that the suddenness of climatic changes are unfayoraule tu healti aud longevity. from home on any day in the year without an overcoat or a shawl. If either be leit behind, the gentleman or lady is liabie_ to contract an incurable cold {in July as well as in January. The same cloth- ing is worn here the year round. Changes of heavy for light garments are utterly unsafe. Hence it is plain that the Pacific coast 1s not a desirable resort for invalids, whilst itis a charm- ing region for persona of bodily soundness and vigor. The long dry season extending from May till the middle of October produces heavy de- posits of dust which affect the sweetness and purity ot the atmosphere. The drinking water, especially in Calitornia, is miserable, whilst in Orevon and Washington Territory it is a clearer and cooler article. The absence of the phenom- ena of thunder and lightning is one of the attractions of this coast. The cheapness of land which in some sections can be procured in quantities for a mere song, is another at- tractive feature In the eyes of emigrauts. THE MORALS OF THE PEOPLE. Whether the soil naturally contains elements of greater strength and fertility than that of Pennsylvania and Ohio | cannotsay: and whether a larzer yield to the acre can be had here than there is problematical. But it is certain that the west will not yet compare with the east in point of social order, moral and religious cul- ture. The people aiong the Vacitic siope are generous to a fault. But to amajority of them the Sabbath is simply a holiday, devoted to fish- ing. hunting, horse racing, dancing and all Tanner of sports and amusements. Habitual drinking is the damnable vice of this popula- tion. whilst at the same time there are many noble examples of temperance and sobriety among this magnanimous people. Divorces and desertions are of frequent occurrence, aud are often based on the most flimsy pretexts. Men and women who had made shipwreck of fortune and character in the east, fled in early days to this wilderness world to rebuild their broken hopes, and many of these have since ac- quired wealth and social position, with very loose ideas in regard to the proprieties and mo- ralities of life. But there ts doubtless a steady advance of the public mind in respect to the purity of home life and the sanctity of the marital tie, and the constant importation of new and better elements will tend to create a higher type of social and moral excellence. THY STAR OF EMPIRE TO REMAIN EAST. After a calm and deliberate survey of the snb- Ject, your correspondent Is of the opinion that the star of empire will never move west of the Missouri river; that the people of the east will ever hold the balance of power in these United States. Thousands of miles of territory in the Rocky mountain regions and in the Sierra Ne- vada range are doomed to perpetual barrenness by reasonof the peculiar conformation of the country, and especialiy for the lack of necessary supplies of water. Moreover, when the mining resources of this region are exhausted Its prin- cipal source of wealth is gone, and with it goes one of the greatest elements of power. But in the face of these few disadvantazes we are per- suaded that the Pacific coast will always pre- sent a grand fleid for thought and enterprise. —o ‘The Modern Cinderella. © “Bring me a tiny mouse’s skin,” The boisterous tanner crieds “IL must be as a rose leaf thin, And scarce thive fingers wide.” ‘Then came a cobbler aide and detuy TIME that mon 3 hide it mouse’ Inw a pair of “Tell .” I asked, “O cobb! For whom these ingroauus Bote “A lover bid me build them well For his true love,” quoth ha, “Where dwells this maid with fairy fect” ‘The old man suited Eris seat— “Chicago,” he replied, mi —Evaorve Pomp. Grand Raplds, Mich, requires fanerals to move through the back streets, It Is not safe to go} AUTUMN ' FASHIONS, ~ The Gathering of the Forces for the Coming Campaign—Display of New Styles—Dinner, Dressing, Evening Wear and ‘Novelties in Ornamenta- tion, ‘i From Our Own Correspondent. New Youg, Nov. 2.--The late autumn is the beginning of a season, which this year promises to be full of Interest to the gay denizens of the bricht but fluctyating:world of fashion and so- ciety. Two “grand” opera houses, the presence of so many bright, particular musical stars, the advent of Mr. Irving, the leading light in the dramatic world, and the increasing azgregation of weaith in the metropolis combine at the pres- ent time to test the strength and resources of all who would hold a place in the moving spec- tacle—the magnificent show which the weeks and months to come will present. The life of the workshop precedes that of the drawing room and the street. and the elements of the brilliant display which will dazzle be- holders have been gathering for months past from Paris and London, from Vienna and Ber- lin, from cottages where the child and tie lamb share the same roof and lie down together, and | from attics and cellars where the huiman life is not half so human as this which meets and inin- gles with that of the beasts. But it will be a brave show, wherever it comes from, and we shall all be very proud of it. Al- ready tie advance notes have been sounded, like the summons of the bell to the early vintage, by the dry goods houses, who h begun-to see the unwisdom of the exclusive system practised for the last few es and have returned ty a more liberal policy— actually allowing the public to see some of the things which they have to sell. A. T. Stewart always understuod this. He was never afraid of taking the community into his confidence in regard to the character of his wares, and his colossal business was built up on that basis. The exclusive system is copied from “private” French iinporters and dressma- kers, whose clientele {s sinall and consists of those who oniy purchase imported designs or from order. A really great house—that fs, great according to modern ideas of size and comprehensiveness— cannot be built up in this way: and there is a future equal to the great fortunes made in the past for a dry goods and ladies’ clothing house that is at once broad and high—that can be re- lied upon, as could A. T. Stewart tnirty years ago, always to give to the ignorant, as well as the experienéed, the newest and best thing for the money. FEATURES OF AUTUMN EXHIBITIONS. ‘The employment of velvet for short costumes, Instead of plush; the use of fine gold braid and gold cord in the finishing and trimming: the en- tire disappearance of the overskirt; the substl- tution of fine kilting and triple box pleats, or au extension of the drapery at the back, from the close paniers of the basque; the peculiar “cornice” effects produced by flowing draperies lifted ut the sides and held without any evidence of being fastened down—the selvedge edye being allowed to appear. but showing a rich facing of satin beneath or a doubie of some rich fabric in a contrasting color; the revival of vel- vet vests buttoned at the throat, with cloth suits, but showing ruffies of lace between the throat and the fastening at the waist. The capes of these suits. also take on many new forms, some folding ower the chest and fasten- ing upon the shoulder; others formiug sleeves set hizh- and accentuating the brevity of the shoulders. The favorite trimming for these suits consists of large macearoons, made of silk cord, or close cord like braid, in the solid color of the cloth, or in two colors if it is a mixture, such as red with blue, dark brown with dark green, terra cotta with dark rock gray, and the like. The size and character of the brocaded fizures and desizns in imported fabrics 1s a constant subjec® for exclamations and paragraphs, and must soon exiaust itself for want of room to crow or additional nutriment to teed upon, for a group of enlarged roses or clustering hydr geas with long stalks or leafy continuations oc: cupies all the space there is upon a bodice to cover, and the absolute has, therefore, been reached in this direction. It is said that art c make even these overgrown patterns becur in bodice or basque, but it is not true, except in the ease of an unusually tall and willowy dure, and a flowing pattern which is graceful and less strictly defined than the majority. Granted, however, that an artist like Worth or Pinzat contd arrange these bold designs so that they would not impart their own character to the wearer, what is to be said and what is to bedone in rezard to the hundreds of handsome dresses which will not be desizned by Worth or Pinzat, but have-to take their chances with a paper pattern and a work-woman at from $1.25 (wash- erwoman’s wases) to $2.50 per day? Still it is very likely that tapestried and bro- caded designs are destined to further develop- ment rather than an untimely end. 2 only on the threshold yet of art, as sugvested by nature, in design, and there are mines of wealth in this direction yet to be explored. The yrowth and adaptation, the harmonization of these will necessarily occupy the time and test the skill of artists in dress, and their success will only draw the line more definitely between the skilled and unskilled, between the real and the imitation. Let the majority, however, those who cannot afford to employ great artists or to induige in a great variety of toilets, avoid very large-patterned fabrics, and thus escape serious risks and dangers. The application of silk and plush flowers to evening fabrics and the use of gold, chenille and beaded embroideries as accessories is frequently seen upon bail dresses, and is certainly effective; in sume instances, beautiful. Oc the large red plush or satin roses, outlined with gold and peart beads, and relieved by foliage in shaded chenille, not much is to be said, except that they are showy and the effect too much like pottery tp be distinguished, even when the work is beaatifally done. Their place is upon the Stage, and as quite a number have appeared among the costumes worn by leading actresses, their status may be said to be fixed. But there are other patterns which are lovely— | Inspirations only to be appreciated by a refed | taste, and which bear the most careful study. These exhibit showers of blossoms worked in chenille and silver or beads upon branching stems and tendrils traced in darkly shaded cord or chenille, and forming a tablier of flowering May or almond blossoms, with corsage sleeves, and shoulder bouquets upon thick tinted satin cream, rose pink, or delicate ecru. There is nothing more significant in the midst of all the finery than the novel tendency to white and gray in costume—the Dorothea col- ors. Large white felt bonnets, trimmed with white ostrich feathers. are faxhionably worn for adrive in Central Park, with “Sister Agnes” cloaks, long gray cloaks of pale gray chudduh cloth. lined with white silk plush or quilted white satin. und finished with large plush col- lar tied with gray satin ribbon. These cloaks are draped up with satin ribbon, to form loose sleeves, and though the design was originally intended for a traveling cloak, they are as driv- ing wraps extremely elegant. It should be re- marked that they are draped at the back und made in red and other colors, but the gray, with the large white felt bonnets, present decidedly the newest and most distinguished appearance. THE NEW TAPESTRIES. Undoubtedly the greatest novelty in fabrics this season consists of the silk tapestries, the matted groaud reproducing the old goblin ef- fects, and the designs artistically subdued and suggesting nature rather than ‘‘conventionali- zing” it, in nataral shades and colors. One of these gives us the Sowing nasturtium in shrimp pink and yellow, and another the outlines of exquisite pond lilies in shaded, yet luminous, rose pink and silver white. These fabrics are truly art, and those I have named are all the more to be rejoiced in as being purely American manutactures and truly what they seem through and through,’ There is a cloth of gold also. finer, more regal, pee @ny worn by queen or empress, which has Geen woven upon American looms, and is ready to make more beautiful America’s fair daughters. It 1s of pure gold thread and red and gold silk, the former of Japanese manufacture and sterling lity, but woven into cloth here. The solid slik reverse side ig hardly less beautiful than the more giit- tering olden side—it would not be correct to say surface, for all these splendid fabrics are woven of threads dyed when they are not of pure metal, before they are woven, and twisted and in. ‘The designs of the tapestries are so admirably blended that tl may be used for complete gowns by those who can afford them, though it is to be hoped that they will have the sense and intelligence not to torture or deface but. they are more likely to be employed for parts of toilets; for the front and or for a skirt, draped over a satin petticoat. gold cloth may be used for princess trains, with satin fronts R : a eapnng of, penta gauze or lace, very effective basques; for theater; for dinner wear. DINNER DRESS. ‘The majority of the elegant toilets ordered £0 tar have been intended for dinners and presum- ably for wear afterfvard at opera or theater. Among them was one which reproduced and blended all the autumn colors—red, gold and ett dead leaf brown—and presented a poem as well as a picture as the resu't. It wasa Worth dress and one of the most beautiful and completeever brought into New York. Another was of very rich black faille (preferred this season of plain satin) combined with full beaded gauze grena- dine, the heads thickly studded and forming be- sides pendant drops, which made a glittering fall, soft yet radiant, the entire length of the dress. The association of rich black silks, with transparent beaded gauzes, nets, and grenadines, is very new and-very effec- tive. It admits of the fuil skirt and doubted effects which are now so much admired and saves it, very light Jets being employed neces- bined with ruby, the latter forming a shirred and puffed front above two kiltings of the satin and suggestive linings for di nt portions of the basque, which was outlined at the throat with a double ruche of old embroidered gauze and lace. With a jacket of brown satin was associated a lemon colored skirt. the front ap- Plique with brown velvet shaded leaves. A Cravat of lewon colored gauze was crossed on the inside of the small square at the neck, which was finished with a quaint design in zold thread and brown siik, forming festooned coins. An economical idea has been seized with avidity, suzzested by the advent of the beaded silks, nets aud laces. A full tront is arranged of some beaded fabric to which is attached an upright band or narrow standing collar. This may be pinned on ina second over a dress that has become defaced, or whose buttons ortrim- mings require renovation, and a complete transformation effected by adding a ruche of lace edzed lisse, tulle or gold embroidered gauze. Of course the beaded fabric must match tn color. Pink will be fashionable again this winter, and for an opera dinner was made recently a basque of pink silk plush, exquisitely soft and delicate, over a skirt of shell pink merveilleux. The square bodice was outlined with pink feathers, and interiorly with a standing ruffle of fine Mechlin lace. A necklace of pink-tipped shells, with reversible wire setting, was worn with this dress, and gloves to the shoulder. The most beautiful black dresses, and quite a number are in preparation or haye been completed, are of “Antwerp” silk, very rich, and covered in front with jet and real lace, not jetted lace. The lace is a mixture of thread and guipure. the Jet t mings fine and pendant in form, upon a net- work which forms the foundation for these cas- cade effects. Feather desivns are much seen in embroidery upon black, and appear not alone upon the tublier but upon the bodice or basque. WINTER CLOAKS. These have somewhat sobered down. They are not at all so fanciful in shape or 8o striking in their combinations of color as during the past two years. The fact is, the majority always de- mand that a cloak shall be adapted to its pur- pose. They do not want a flowered dreasing- gown or wrapper—a showy costume over an- other costume—but a garment for warmth and cover, and the cloak is obliged to come back to this. Even the ulster has stopped coquetting with draperies, which were out of place and only rendered it unfit for its purpose, and has come back to its original simple form, with the hood lined with a color, if color is wanted for a finish. The finest cloaks for the street and vis- iting are of plush or velvet brocade, with otto- man, armure, or matted grounds. They are long, but not 80 long as last year; they are also more of the long paletot than of the dol- tan shape, though they often have the dolman sieeves. Apricot, primrose and amber shades are employed fur the quilted satin linings, in- stead of the hackneyed red and old gold, and the trimmings are very soft, and full chenille fringes and ornaments. Very simple, yet lady- like, cloaks are cut close to the figure and high upon the should from thick dull Ottoman satin. The sleeves are long and oven, lined with quilted satin and bordered like the cloak with a broad band of the black silk plush of which the collar is composed. It may be fas- tened with aclasp at the throat, cr tied with black satin ribbon, but tie front is held by large invisible hooks and eyes. Warm cloaks for elder y ladies are beautifully made out of tine, furry, black camels’ hair, lined | with black silk plush, and Anished with a peler- ine collar of the same. This obviates the neces- sity for furs except a muff. Instead, a ruche of lace ora fichu of crepe de chine may be tied around the neck, and is much more healthiul and pleasant. T soft, warm camels’ hair cloth has been made into autumn cloaks, which may be recommended for ladies in warm clt- mates throughout the entire season. It is, in etfect, along paletot, pleated in to the figure, front’ and back, in fine lengthwise pleats from top to bottom, and lined with an all-silk surah. The sleeves are set high, are alittle full, rounded up well and slightly flowing, two pleats being laid on the Inside of the arm, which sives a much more graceful effect nee the wrist. A broad belt is fastened to the back on tlie Inside, and broucht around in front underneath, thus holding the back well into the fizure. A full ruche of black lace is ar- ranged asa jabot around the neck on the out- side of a narrow standing collar, and this trim- ming is repeated on the sleeves. The fastening at the neck and down the front is effected with dull satin ribbon. These cloaks are not very expensive and are very useful. They are soft, light, yet warm,have a look of distinction with- out being what ts called “dressy,” cover the dress, and may be used as @ morning dress if one tires of the cloak. The most elegant plush and seal skin cloaks are trimmed with otter this season, and there is a notable absence ot patchy “ornaments,” so called, which are anything but ornamental to a really rich garment. Aiuillettes, cords, mac- caroons, and the whole zamily of hanging passe- menterie decorations are so fey reproduced in shams as to be almost instantly vulgarized and made despicably common. The tendency therefore among women of real refinement is to get rid oftrimming, except that which always has value, original designs in handwork, whether it be lace, embroidery or painting. Quite the newest thing in evening and 0} cloaks are the Paisley desizns, with gold thread woven In with the delicate yet richly blended colorings upon cream or tinted grounds. These are bordered with a full silk and gold tape fringe aud lined with apricot or cream colored silk plush, or with gailted satin surah, and are half dolinan, half mantle, narrow in the neck, with shoulder pieces, and long ends in front White mantles will, of course, be fashionable (they always are). White sicilienne brocaded velvet, corded velvet, ana corded silk satin lined and embroidered with silk and silver. Per- haps these last are thedaintiest of all.as they are the costliest, for the materials are very rich and the work always done to order, and after special designs. Many handsome and distinguished looking mantles are made of *Persian,” “In- dian,” and brocaded stuffs insilk and wool, or of materials really foreign and distinctive in their design; and it is always to be remembered that what is rare is more valued than what is com- monplace and conventional, though the latter may be rated at a higher money value. TUCKING AND PLEATING arearage. Among some very novel breakfast dresses just imported are long gowns of finest cashmere—in cream, peacock and electric blue, shrimp pink, strawberry, and rock-zray shades— that are tucked lengthwise from top to bottom, back and front, and trimmed with cascades of tinted escurial lace in which are flats of satia ribbon. Silk cords confine the waist. The sleeves are a little fulland slizhtly flowing, easy upon the arm, andtrimmed with lace. Another style of mourning dress is cut with a moyenage waist. which clearly defines the waist and hips. The skirt is laid in very fall, small perpendicular folds around the elongated center of the back of this bodice and to the sides, which may be panelled or simply made to meet a front formed of two kiltings, with a rim of rose embroidery between in solid, self-eontracting, or varied colors between, as prefe Certainly uj white white is more elegant than any color, especially if the hip-elt, which covers the edge of the bodice and defines it, is of black velvet. Still another morning gown is of gray surah, the faliness laid in lengthwise pleats upon a straizht lining, which strictly outlines the fiz-. ure, but is easy as wellas graceful. The hip press mes Sebi tae piaii f the leats, reap upon in of bodice, am the color is re) in the cas- cades of lace which are carried down the tront. It Is very common now for ladies to adopt the European custom and breakfast in their boo- doir, generally a lovely secluied room, with stained glass Di ipairted an open fireplace, and perhaps rose silk ins to give a becoming tint to the complexion. ak icles for boudoir peers ra those with os moyenage lice are particularly women of stately, figare. atin was com- | vet bands, which are adapted young women of sporting proclivities. The wrought Jewelry shows exquisite flower i designs in pink and white enamel, sprinkled with precious stones, apple blossoms, a minia- ture pond lily, with white diamonds in the cen- ter, and others. The lotus flowers figures largely in the fancy articies, which are beginning to arrive in anticipation of the holidays and the season of gifts. There are lotus claret Jags, | Coffee sets, individual condiment sets, inkstands. A lotus leaf forms a pretty candlestick in: white or colored broaze, with an insect alight upon it. Vienna sends some Jeweled photograph trames in fanciful shapes—tan, butterfly, palette and easel. Some pretty menu staads are seen in | Royal Worcester china, and constitute also in- | dividual pepper and salt bolders. Two acorns | with perforated tops are intended for red and white or black pepper. Between them and in front of them an acorn cup star dy to Te- ive the salt; and two’ daiaty cak leaves at the ck form the support of the stand, in the slide hich the menu card is placed. Ww dessert dishes take the form of curled leaves with fruit attached to the handle or under the turned edge for decoration: Plums, peaches, green figs and other truit are made to look very naturel, and show great manipulation. J NEWPORT AS A WINT of Why Married Ladies Tarry in the City by the Sea. ‘Newport Correspondence of the New York Times. It is generally believed that several well- known New York ladies are residing here for the purpose of securing divorces from their hus. bands under the very lenient laws of this state, which simply require parties to be residents of the etate before securing a lezal separation. Many names are freely used at the Casino, the clubs, and upon the street, but as yet none of the ladies have officially made known their intentions to the clerk or the court. -Mrs. Henry Turnbull, of New York, who is a great favorite in social circles, arrived here yesterday with her children, and with no less than 20 large trunks. She has taken a year’s lease of the cottaze on the corner of Kay and Bull streets owned by Mrs. E. W. Mr. Turnbull was accompanied from New York by three servants and by Col. De Lancey Kane and Mrs. Kane ana Mrs. Walter L. Kane, sister-in-law of Col. Kane. It is alleced that Mrs. Turnball will be allowed to secure a divorce at the proper time, and that satisfac- tory terms have been agreed upon between her aud the hero of the Union Club scandal. Mrs. Turobull is rich, while her husband is not pos- sessed of any means to speak of. Shortly after the Union Club sensation he secured a position as clerk in one of the departments at Washing- ton, but it is learned that he only retained the Position a short time. It is aiso understood that he is heartbroken and has lost al his ambi- tion. Mrs. Turnbull was met at the wharf by her 12-year-old son, who had preceded her. It is admitted that Mra. Oliver Hazard Perry ; Belmont, nee Whiting, of New York, is deter- mined to apply fora divorce. Belmont is the son of August Belmont, the banker, and re- signed from the navy last year. He was mar- ried to Miss Whiting in December tast. The wedding was a brilliant affair, and was duly chronicled in the Times. Mrs. Belmont Is the mother ofa daughter, born a tew weeks ago. The trouble originated while the newly-married couple were spending the honeymoon in Eu- rope, and it is alleged that Mrs. Belmont has good and sufficient grounds for @®kinz for a separation. Her case fs in the hands of William Sheftield, one of the ablest lawyers in the state. Mrs. Belmont while abroad resided with her mother, Mra. S$. 8S. Whiting, who isa daughter of the late Judge Swan, of Ohio. Mrs. Whiting was so indignant at the unaccountabie and pro- longed absence of her three mouths’ old son-in- law and with his conduct that she packed up and took her family to New York, arriving early in June. This step was determined upon while Mr. Belmont was absent from their apartments. Mr. Belmont returned to New York on the next steamer and caused to be pub- lished throuzh the Associated Press a denial of the report that he and his wife had separated. The Whiting family came immediat to New- port and took possession ot their home here. Up to this day Mr. Belmont has never been permit- ted to call upon his wife or ebild. It looks as if he Intends to show fight, as he, too, announces that he will “spend the winter here.” He is here now, and intends to reside upon hisfather's farm, Uakiand, in the town of Portsmouth, about five miles from this city. A relative of tue family caused an announcement to be made inthe local paper to the effect that Mr. Bel- mont would “permanently reside here.” Other names are viven, but at present there Is no visible proof that they intend to ask for the untying of the marriage Knot. Efforte will be made at the January session of the | la ture to reform the marriage laws of the state in @ manner which will not be relished by those who contend that Rhode Island is ahead of Chicago in the matter of getting divorces at short notice. ——_+e-_—_____ In the Syren’s Embrace. Joseph Medill in the Chicago Tribune, “Do you love me truly, Harold?” Lurline Neversink was even more beautiful than usual as she stood in the soft, mellow light that streamed from the chandelier over- head, and, looking down fondly upon her, Geo. W. Simpson felt that to wreck forever the hap- piness of her young life, to plunge her soul into the turbid depths of despair and hold it there by the heels, were a crime than which none could be more black. He knew that this girl, whose weird, passionate nature made her heart @ lute for every passing joy or griefto play upon, had given to him the one best love of a ‘woman's life—her first. It was something to be tenderly proud of, this iove—something not to be worn lightly on the sieeve where all might | shed of a man’s soul. secure alike from carping criticism or cruel jest. And yet as George W Simpson gazed tenderly into the dark, lustrous eyes that were aziow with hopeful expectancy, he felt that the maelstrom of passionate adora- tion into which Lurline Neversink had allowed herself to be drawn would one day cast her young heart bleeding and torn upon the jazzed rocks of bia refusal. [t was a terrible, madden- ing thouzht, and it came with awful force to George as he stood in tnat pallatial mansion. his feet sinking into tne velvet carpet until he was in danger of becoming cock-ankled, and heard the words with which this chapter opens. Bending tenderly over the girl, George kisses her in a chaste, New Haven, Conn.. manoer, but does not trust himself to answer in words the fateful question ahe has asked. And then they pass into the music-room, which is se; from the hall by a portiere of navy-blue velvet. The windows of the room are shaded by cur- tains of the same rich color, and the walls be- tween them are covered with paintings. Statues of Mozart, Beethoven and Guido filled niches, while over the low mantel hung a full-length rtrait of Maud S. No word was spoken until Purine had seated herself at the piano, aadthen it was simply a request that he hand her a cer- tain piece ot music. As he stuoped forward to comply the outlines of his face were brought into strong relief against the ruddy background of hisleft ear,and Lurline gazed at him fa- tently His was such a countenance as one sees in old Italian portraits, in some Vandykes, show- ing power stranzely blended with passion. His mouth, beautiful as 8 woman's. with its smile generous and rare.ag a split codfish, was tightly compressed and as bloodiessas marble. His eyebrows, dark, straight and finely penciled, met over his dark-gray eyes, and in the latter there was a fixed. resoluteexpression that boded no good to a square meal if he should happen to meet one. At last the music was found and Laurline be- gan to sing. Carried away by the inspiration of the moment, she sang on and on untilat last she paused from sheer exhaustion. And then. see- ing that George was not at her side, she turned to the fauteuil at her left. ‘There he lay—dead in all proud grandeur of his glorious man- hood, while on his forehead fell the “golden dawuing of a ." He had died at the moment when he was passing the stone that marke the loftiest point on life's hizhway—died where mant ’s morning aimost touches it, and while the shadows were falling towards the west. The mellow light from the chandelier stole into the hushed chamber of death and wan- dered over his stately form that lay powerless and stricken, over his noble, handsome face, , even in death, of the deathless love he ‘He had forgotten to plug up his ears. Really fine gemsare now mounted as nearly! Engacep ro Etaurcen Grnis.—A as possible in an “4nvisible” setting and rubies, | y ang Ain Salk ee, before Justice cate-eyes and others, are much preferred to the Moog ong core es Zemneeent, ey . diamond. This is not surprising, for a flawless ‘and under r raby is worth five times as much as potatarsaced paca wnrones pending of tho same size and equal quality. A ruby The girl afterwards learned that her Harry was Ting is now the first cholce for an engagement |>ngaced to seventeen other girls, of whom he ring, ora smaller roby may occupy the center | nad borrowed similar sums, 80 the match was a sapphire on one side and a yellow dia- | broken offand a attempt made to recover the mond on the other. fly presen money. form of a clover leaf. and a happy (dea Is to In gommunication to the Academle des Sol- make it four-leaved clover. A novelty im brace- | ences M. Krechel has drawn attention to a new lets consists of rough gems set in nuggetsof} method of aduiterating milk. It consists in virgin gold connected with cable chains, and in adding to it an aqueous solution of hav- silver are Jockey caps pendant upon black vel- ing the same density. Saturn Is morning star untM the 28th, and@ then evening tar. If we class the planets ao- cording to the Interest attached to their move- ments during the month, Saturn will andonbt- edly win firet place. On the 28th, at 11 © in the eventag, Saturn reaches his culmins point in size and brilliancy for the present year. He is then opposite the sun, rising when the eun sets and setting when the sun rises, This Is the point in his orbit when he is nearest to the earth, thus accounting for the aplendor of bir Appearance. A straint line drawn from the sun to the earth would,it extended pase through Sa- turn. Tnstead of being 1,014.000,000 miles from the earth, his distance at bonjunction Is S31, 000,000 miles. Put his nearness to us is not the reason for his beautiful appearance. His are open nearly to their widest extent, and he is approaching perihelion which; while ging hin more than 100,000,000 miles nearer the sun than he is when in aphelien, briags him also nearer to the earth. He will theretore, be 3 superb object for observation during the month, being above the h Pleiades and Aldebaran. ers who can detect one or more moons with the naked eye, may seehim in an elonzated form, on account of his widely-open rings. A telescope of moderate power will cive asurpassingly lovely pictare of the rng-zirdled i devery one interested in astronomy possible, obtain a view of this wonder ofthe heavens. Jupiter is morning starthroughont the month. Though he now vielis the first place to Sevura, he fils the second withsuch distineutsty that when his princely head appears abo’ eastern hills star-gavers pay involuntary hom- age to the nobiest member of the san’s family, Observers will now obtain the first this planet about halt-past ten o'clock evening. As he rises four minutes earl evening, being, like the stars, carried westward by the earth’s motion in her orbit, be will rise about half-past eight o'clock at the close of the month. Those who desire to ovserve a planet in a stationary aspect will find a brilliant fine tration in this beaming planet, for he scarcely changes his position during the month. Mars ts morning star. Though he contributes Ro incidents to the annals of the month, he wins the third place for the interest he excites. His increase in size and ruddy color are plainly apparent, for his diateter has more than dou- bled since the Istof October. As he rises now twenty two minutes after Jupiter, he may read- fly be found from his proximity to his more brilliant brother. Mars illustrates direct motion during the month, that ‘, he is moving east- ward according to the signs ot the zodiac. Venus is evening star during the month, the only planet playing this part without change. She will not long remain low on the list. bat will soon put forth her claims to notice as the fairest of the winter stars. Though set- ting now forty minutes after the sun, ai the end of the month she will be above the horizon alittle more than an hour after sunset. She must then be looked tor two degrees and a half south of the suaset point, and she will be both dim and small in the glowing twilight. Neptnne is morning star until the 12th, when he becomes evening star. He retains his pre- eminence until that time among the planets on the morning roll. as the Orst to make his appear- ance tn the field. On the 12th, at 4 o'clock in the morning. the event in his career most inter- esting to terrestrial observers takes place. He is in opposition with the sun. As the word tin- plies, he is opposite the sun, being 180 degrees in longitude from him, and also at bis nearest, point to the earth. An observer on the sun ep- dowed with visual power to take in the system. ata glance. would behold the earth, and Nep- tune far beyond directly in line. He would also find, jast betore Neptune's opposition, six of the ‘seven planets, leaving out the earth on one side of the sun, and Venus as the sole planetary representative on the qther side. The movements of the planets as . from the sun would be far less compli- when they are seen from the earth, by the same laws that govern the sun's whole family, Nep- tune at opposition is under the most favorable conditions tor being seen. He ts now among rs of the constellation Aries, neat line of Taurus, and nearly west of Aldebaran, the only bright star in his neighbor- hood. * A yood telescope sweeping the fleld where he lies will quickly detect his presence, for a small, ill-defined spore with a perceptible dise will suddenly spring into beng, while the snrrounding stars still remain as mere points of Neptuutan every an tronomers have an advantace over terrestrial ones, and can find little difficulty in measuring While the earth the distance of the fixed stars. has only 180,(00,000 mil orbit—for a base line, vantages to counterbalance this advantage. It takes Neptune 165 of our years to go once around the sun, and Neptunian astronomers must wait more than eighty years to make measurements in opposite points of the orbit. The sun as seen in the Neptunian sky measures 64”, a little more than the greatest apparent dl- ameter of Venus as seen from the earth. Our glorious orb to the Neptunians 1s but a brilliant star, giving only a thousandth part of the light we enjoy. Mercury is morning star until the 26th. and evening star the rest of the month. Onthe 26th, at 1 o'clock in the morning. he isin superior conjunction with the sun, passing beyond and below him, and reappearing on his eastern side as evening star. He takes no active part in the 1 events of the month, but speeds on his way, the { smallest and the awiftest, as well as the nearest j to the sun among the planets. THE MOON. The November moon futls on the 14th at fifty- j three minutes after eleven o'clock in the morn- jing. On the 6th, the day before the first quar- see it, but tucked carefully away in the woud- | ter, the moon occults Beta Capricorni, a star of the third magnitude in the constellation Capri- cornus. The disappearance or immersion of the star occurs at five minutes after eight o'clock in the evening. Washinzten mean time, and a! twenty-four minutes earlier according to Pre dence tme. The emersion, or reappearance, takes place at four minutes after nine w'clock, the occultation continuing Mfty-nine minutes. The phenomenon isa beautiful one, aud worth taking pains to see, while the hour of the exhl- bition is convenient. As the moon travels from new to full with her dark edge toremost, the dark edze will first overtake the star. Ob- servers will see it apparently blotted from the sky. as it disappears behind the dark portion of the moon's disc. Nasby. Leander Richardson in John Swinton's paper. Thave not seeu Nasby in New York for some months. There's an odd fellow for you. He can work harder and steadier, both at a demi- john anda type-writer, thas any other “liter- aryfeller” in the country. He never travels without both the articles mentioned as his side companions. His method is to hire a whole section ina Pullman. have the curtains drawn and the table set up, and proceed to business with the type-writer on top of the table and the Jug underneath. He takes a drink to a pace, and his eagerness f.r the jug makes him rash off the page at a very lively yait. Nasby"s tace looks Like the moon before a storm, and his garments lovk like a second-hand store alter a cyclone. He thinks whisky heaven's best gift toman. For some years past he has been trav- eling abroad getting material for a tistory of the world. It will be sold by the cord. He has made a great deal of money, and through pra- dently buying his liquor at whole-aie and fell- ing it to himself at retail, he bas saved up @ fortune by saving the balance. He ts short, fat and fifty, and he smokes five-cent cigars when he can get sevep of them fora quarter. Now Tell us About Oshkosh, From the Chicago Tunes A German paper explains the origin ot the name Kalamazoo by declaring that the first set- tler in the place wag a German; thet he had a son named Karl; that he kept @ saloon, which be closed, lawfully, every night at 9 o'clock, his injunction to his son being rezutarly made at that hour in words: “Karl, macht zu!” The Indians took