Evening Star Newspaper, September 8, 1883, Page 3

UP THE ANDROSCOGGIN. a Charming Little Maine Village—Its Romantic Hi dians —A Muaker—A Chum of Ole Ball. Correspondence of Tae Evesisa Star. Berunt, Me., September 1, 1883. This beautiful little, but old, village is famed fn history, song and story. Just one hundred and two years azo it was bes and plun- dered by a savage band of Indians from Canada, who, painted and armed with guns, tomahawks | ng knives, attacked the place, robbed | d the dwellings, murdered some of the | inhabitants, took others prisoners and marched them on foot to Canada, where a bounty was Paid by the British government for their scalps Many of the ndants of those { tlers of the place live here to recount | idents and exploits of their fore- a with those times “that et tried me y have been handed | down to them, and many are the relics they have preserved of those terrible events, and many are the songs now sung of their honored brave. This Bethel, where hundreds from the more | of semi-tropical summer resorts | ually to imbibe its bracing, invigorat- | ying breezes. is 15 miles from New | n the banks of the meandering zzin river, on the line of the Grand | ‘Trunk railway, and is surrounded with a net work of monutain eminences frinsing the hori- zon in every direction. From many of these summits. on aclear day, may be distinctly seen Mount Weshinztun—thecrown of the monarchs, and the Mecca to which so. many true believers in the beauties of the White Mountain scenery invariably direct their steps. It is not too quiet. but just quiet enouzh. Not too near, but just hear enough to the “madding crowd” of the city. It is not too cold, but just cold enouzh to wear overcoats and mittens every other day, and make one wish they were in Washington again. The drives in the neighborhood are pleasant and diversified, and lead to many points of interest, among which are Grafton and Diecksville Notches, Rumford, and Screw Auer Falls, Sonzo and Umbagog lakes. Detained over night in Boston I visited and spent a pleasant evening with the celebrated violin-maker. L. 0. Grover, a workman whose products form an intere: picture, and whose Inysterious skill fashions rude material into in- struments which bewitch men with their melody and opens a book ot more absorbing interest than ever author wrote or printers’ art gave to the world. Mr. Grover very early in life im- bibed an attachment for the violin, which caused his parents (who had their oid-fashion notions about instrumental music, and especially the fiddle, as akin to devices of the devil) to think their son insane on the subject. but he very soon, when opportunity was afforded him to improve in his chosen art, conquered their pre- Judices and became the most successful teacher of such instrumental music in New England until attacked by diphtheria, when he was com- pelied to abandon that and adopt violln-making asa specialty, and he is now one of the most enthusiastic, skillful and celebrated mechanics in the country. He has a rare collection of violins from other countries, among which area genuine Gaspard Di Salo, by the first maker of violins, of which there are but three in the United States, his and two formerly owned by Ole Bull. The latter is an intimate friend cf Mr. Grover, always visit- ing him when in this country, and on one occa- sion of his last visits suzgested to Mr. Grover to make an instrument which would combine all the exceilencies of Gaspard Di Salo, Amati, Guarnerius and Stradivarius. Thishe did under Ole Bull's eye, and succeeded in producing an instrument of remarkable purity and strength oftone. His workmanship. in his beautiful res- idence on Union park, is indeed a oe A. a SOMETHING ABOUT SCRANTON, PA. 4 Busy Mining and Manofacturing To —Some of the Industries—The Pt Maguires—Their Reign of Ter- rorism Over. Gorrespondenc: of Tae Evextxe Star. Serantow, Pa., August 30, 1883. The city of Scranton is built in a succession of hills. The hihest eminence is Hyde park, which commands a fine view of tife city and sur- roundings. The city limits include tormer vil- lages that have been gradually absorbed In its rapid growth; and though a city of over fifty thousand inhabitants, it is not well built up and has the appearance of a long, straggling town. Its situation in an inexhaustible coal field, near Valuable deposits of iron, only 150 miles from the two great markets, New York and Philadel- phia, together with Improved facilities of min- ing and manufacturing. and rapid means of transportation, accounts tor its rapid strides in wealth, population ana prosperity. The manu- facturinz interests are great, but steel and iron have the prominence. Elghty thousand tons of steel rails are produced there every year, witha Promise of increase, as science and skilled labor ‘re constantly enlarging the capacity of these wonderful steel and iron works. Then there are breweries and bakeries, foundries and factories, and other inanstries too numerous to mention. But of these a passing notice must be given tothe Seranton Silk Manufacturing company and to the extensive business of B. and A. Galland, manufacturers of ladies’ under- wear. The operatives employed in these large establishments are almost exclusively ris and women. The companies in pth cases have availed —_ themselves of this cheap labor, which exists so abundantly in mining towns, where the fathers and brothers are at work in the mines and mills. And the employment of the female members of a family enables them to support themselves and add to the comfort of their homes. The coal miners are generally foreigners. Their work is hard; they see little of the sunlight, and accidents often occur, yet they are attached to their occupa- tion. Asthe temperature of the mines varies little during the year, they consider mining healthful. Asaclass. they are not provident, and their history has many dark shadows. But many of them are frual and thrifty and own theirhomes. A well-kept garden, a rose bush at the door, some bright-colored window plants, and clean, healthy little ones playing atound, nak pleasant pieture, frequently waxes are good, and if industrious te no ~pinched faces The operatives in the iron and prks are also foreigners, but being en- gazed in mechanical pursuits rank much higher than miners. are Welsh, German and Irish, and are valued by their employers accord- fag to nati y. They have organizations for their moral and fntellectual improvement, churches. literary and wusical societies, which are well suppo! The Welsh are passion- ately fond of music, and many spend all their leisure moments in improving themselves in this delichtful art. The favorite home instru- ments are the piano and organ. The children, born in an atmosphere full of harmony, atch the inspiration and become wonderfully at performers at an early age. The sh are devoted to their national airs, but Make themsely tiliar with the classical music of the best composers—Hayden, Beeth- even, Mozart and others. ‘The mantle of peace has fallen where Mollle Maguires held tor yearsa reign of terror, as- fassins lurked in shadows, murderers boldly walked the streets, arson and rapine were com- mitted with impunity. They still exist, but so many have suffered the fall penalty of violated law that they are completely subdued. Now twenty policemen are more ti enough to preserve the order of Scranton. Rk A Snake With Two Feet. ‘From the New York Times. Mr. Richard Decker. a resident of Walkill | took a round-about way, and got there in an | you have a fine view of the Blumli’s alp. Coming A WASHINGTON BOY IN SWITZER- LAND. His Tramps There—What He Has to Say About the Mountains, Hotels, Customs of the Pcopi ae. [The following letter, written by a Washington school boy, who is spending his vacation in Switzerland, will a his schoolmates and the boy fraternity gener- ¥. Hevstricn, Switzertaxp, July 31, 1883. Dear Mama: Since I have been in Heustrich T have made various small trips throughout the country. My first one was to Reschi, the place which papa was telling you about. It is about thirty minutes from here by a direct road, but I hour and a half, having walked very fast. Ar- riving there I went to the Blumlisalp, the pic- ture of whieh we have in the library. You have axrand view from here of Interlaken and the Thuner Lake, also of the Nieder-hort and Schei- denfluch, two very beautiful mountains. The hotel is on a mountain, and not on a level with the lake as It is given on the picture. You get @ very nice meal for a franc. As it is very small, and situated in a dirty villaze, I know you would not like to spend a summer there. My next triv was to Muehlenen, about three- quarters of an hour from Heustrich. Yester- day I went to Reichenbach in the morning. This Is a great place tor cattle dealers. In the evening i went to Wimmit, quite a large town, situated in the midst of the Stock-horner moun- tains. I was accompanied by several gentle- men from Heustrich. We took a look at the Schloss, a very interesting place. From here back we were caught in the rain, and some of us got thoroughly drenched. ‘To-morrow I am going to Thun to be measured for a suit of clothes'to make my longer tramps in. There is nothing grander than tramping in Switzerland; everything looks green and fresh, the houses in= viting, and mouutains and glaciers on every side. Now and then you pass tourists; some- times a poor cretin, an untortunate being, with an idiotic luok upon his face, eyes bulging out of their sockets, maimed in one or more of his limbs. As we pass him we wond<z why he was so created. Sometimes we pass a wagon and the mail, each delivering its mail and releasing its human burdens at every little station. In the evening you see the Alpine-glow (Alpen- gluehen), a sight than which there is none More beautiful! How nice it would be if you were all here, and we could make these excur- sions together. When I get home I shall tell you of the beautiful fences and hedges that we +s and New Fabrics for her—Autumn Walk and Fittest—The New Trimming for Cloaks and Jackets—Bra! a New Mole—Healthtal and Helpfal School Dresses—Woven Garments. From Our Own Corresponéent. New York, Sept. 7—There is a universal complaint among the buyers who have returned from Europe as well as among those who cater tothe varying taste for clothes at home, that there is “nothing new,” “no novelties of,” only attempts to put a somewhat different face upon old acquaintances or merely call them by another name. This is, of course, a perfectly natural! and in fact inevitable state of things— the limits by which the majority are bound are soon reached and changed, except as asee-saw— or forward and back from left to right is difi- cult and sometimes impossible. The problem which the desire for novelty presents to the distracted caterer on the part of those who cannot pay for it, results in the queer Jumbles and monstrosities which appear in color and design, in fabric and in head gear. Fortunately the making of cloths and silks of cottons and linens, is fixed by the possibilities of looms‘ and machinery, and the absolute necessity of abiding by what they can turn out. in the way of elemental material untilsuch time as genius invents new methods. Novelty, therefore, consists only in a little more or less silk color—a little more or tess silk, cotton or wool—a different combination of these factors, and as much change in design as will make the fashion plates of this year look different from the fashion plates of last year. THE SURVIVAL OF FITTER AWD FITTEST. Women who have control of sufficient means and the inclination to spend it on dress are few innumber. While possessed of a larger liberty of choice, they are usually governed by a more refined and experienced taste, and by certain conventional ideas which are scarcely known, much less fully recognized beyond the limits of acircle. There is another class possessing money and making a larger capital out of the absence of scruples and a restrictive delicacy; and of this are the women who usually stand as the repre- sentatives of fashion, whose extravagance and sensationalism, fed by a doubtful class of men, are made the synonyms of American woman- hood. This false estimate is all the more hart- ful and mischievous because it affects the minds tee here, and perhaps we can put one around the farm. A hedge certainly would be an im- provement there, and there would be no ex- pense in keeping it in order; and how much beauty would it not add to the farm? As soon as we have fair weather (it Is raining now) I mean to go upon the Niesen. This mountain is right back of the hotel, and is nearly eight thousand feet high. _It takes four hours to ascend it. About 150 feet from the summit isa Senn-hutte, where those whohava ascended the mountain stay over night to see the rising of the sun, which 1s said to be a grand sight. After I have ascended and descended the Niesen I am going to make a trip from here by foot, rail and steamboat to Luzern. TAKING BREAKFAST IN THE WATER. Going from here to Leuk (by foot, of course,) thereI will stop over night, and in the morning will take a look at the bathers, who go into the water early in the morning and remain there a long time, taking breakfast and Innch in the water. From Leuk I will cross the Fueilen pass by rail to Luzern, and back again to Heustrich by way of Thoune, stopping at Zurich and Bern. We lead a De lly ered life here at Heus- trich, the hotel being all one could desire. We of young girls and furnishes them with a bad example when they need a high ideal, lowering their standard below the average when they should be inspired by every possible influence to raise it to a higher level. Notwithstanding all drawbacks, however, the actual science of dress ig gaining;the survival ofthe fittest helps here as in what are considered more important matters. There are constant additions to the stock of per- manent ideas, and the “revivals” which fre- quently take place are in the line of that which has adapted Itself to the general requirements, rather than of tolly, excentricity, and extrava- gance. You cannot get rid of the walking skirt, the lonaise, the cape, the ulster, the walking jacket or the whole-dress, because they are con- ventent and adaptable; while the basque,though cut up and down, in and out, has survived with- out an interregnum tor upwards of thirty years, and was then simply evolved or ‘‘evoluted” from the bodice with a short separate skirt, shaped and attached; and this from the ancient ‘“‘short- gown” which still survives in the house and dressing sacque, but has been improved by shaping. It is always difficult to make dealers in or makers of women’s clothing believe that any idea can obtain a permanent place. They know get up in the morning at about 7 o'clock, dress, take a drink of Heustrich water, and then ze’ ready for breakfast, which takes place at 8 o'clock, and every one is expected to be on time. After breakfast the band begins to play, but as the music is very poor, we don’t listen to It, but go into the read:ng rooms and read the papers, or look into the bowling alleys. We have dinner at 1 o'clock, and a grand dinner it is, too. It takes us a tfull hour to eat it during week days, and an hour and a half on Sunday. THE CANTON COSTUMES. You ought to see how they make the walting girls dress on that day. Everv one wears the clothesof the canton from which she comes, and every dress is rich both in color and material, each one different from the other. After dinner we go over to the casino, (a little tavern on the road to Thun, and a stopping place for the stage), to get acup of coffee. Then we come back again. Papa inhales for two hours, and I take a walk. At half-past 6 o'clock the omni- bus comes from Thun with guests, and a little later the mail. Papa has subscribed for an American paper published in Paris, and we will receive It daily. At 7 We have supper—a sup- per equal to the table’hote of the steamer Nurnberg. We spend the evening in the read- ing-room, or in the grand hall, where they gen- erally have a concert. Everybody has retired by 10 o'clock. I forgot to tell you about the Heustrich water. When you first drink, it tastes and smelis like rotten eges; but when you get use to it you like it—it 1s ice-cold, and acts upon the kidneys. You get a bottle of it every morning. The doc- tor of the steamer Nurnberg gave me an ostrich egg, and I will send it home; 80 you need not be surprised when it arrives. When you receive this letter I dare say it will be your birthday. I havn't anything now that I could send you, ex- cepting this small Alpine flower; but I know that It will be Just as pleasing to you as any other present, when you take in consideration that it came all the way trom Switzerland from your boy Jack. Ihope that you may be well, and that you may see many birthdays after this one, in which I may share and be present. I write this long letter because knew it would reach you at or about your anniversary, and because ifI go tramping in Switzerland I will only be able to write postals. JACK. ——-e-____ PHOTOGRAPHING IN COLORS. A French vention ‘That is Utilized in Art a Commerce From the New York Sun. “How soon can I have my photographe?” asked a lady who had gazed for the fraction of asecond at the camera in an establishment in 18th street. “In six days with all the colors” “She will get them in as short atime as she would an ordinary photograph, and they will show the colors in the fabrics of her di and her complexion. The process is quick and imple,” said the operator. ‘Qo you take the colors with the camera?” ‘No. The preliminary processis the same asin photography. We take the ordinary pho- tographic negative by Instantaneous photogra- phy. The patent lies in the manner of produc- ing the colors after the negative has been obtained. The paper on which the photograph is printed is covered with a light wash of colors according to the notes taken by the operator at the sitting. No skill is required to apply the wash. This is sensitized by a process protected by a patent. When we print from the negative on this paper the colors take up all the lights and shades, and the result is a perfect colored Photograph. ‘The process was invented by jonnaud. a Frenchman, and the photograph is called a Bonnaudtype.” “Do you confine yourself to portraits?” “Oh, no. We take photographs of houses, Paintings, subjects for advertising, and sam- ples. Here isa set of brierwood pipes and a set of lamp shades. Now the drummers for the firms manufacturing these, instead of taking the pipes and thelamp shades with them in thelr travels through the country, can take pho- tographs, or the manufacturers can mail the photographs directly to the retailers. This sample ph valley. in Ulster county, while working in his catfield recently,was surprised by a black snake which came at him with open mouth, his head elevated from the ground 12 or 14 inches. He succeeded in killing it with his pitchfork, and in measurement found it to be 5 feet 7 inches in Jength, with a diameter of an inch and a half at the largest part. The extraordinary feature of the creature, however, was the presence of two well formed legs with teet attached to the bod at a point about 15 inches from its tail. The legs were of a light pink or flesh color, without bone, and so elastic that when drawn to their fuli length and suddedly released they would spring back to their normal | position at the reptile’s side. The feet were about the size of a hazel-nut and were hoof-like in ap; ce and of a darker color than the limbs to which they were attached. Uponeach one of these feet or hoofs were 63 smal! claws, white and of a horny substance. The body of the snake, with the lezs attached, was seen by most of the inhabitants of the village before it was put into alcohol and forwarded to the National Museum ‘at Washington. Relative to the Russian scientific commission, which’ te be headed by Col. Prje- walsky, the Burlington Free Press says that they will do well to fasten the colonel’s name on the bow of the boat to crack the ice with, is b y isalarge branch of our pepe a a Post Cards. A correspondent of the New York Even- ing Post makes the sensible suggestion that it would be in every respect an improvement to call our “postal cards” by the name used in England—* ”. We do not say “goy- ernmental clerk”, out ‘government clerk”, nor do we call @ post office a “postal office”. “Postal” means, according to Worcester, ‘“per- taining to the post, “office, or malls”, and the expression ~ regulations” or ‘ facilities” is, of course, perfectly legitimate. But a post card is simply'a card carried by post, and the Eng.ish name seems in all res} superior to our American term. Besides, the former is a syllable shorter, and the general use of it would tend to do away with the barbarism of calling acard a ‘ ", thus making one Jess instance of an jective doing duty for an udjective and a noun. Aowaietne ggg tat The poeple of Brooklyn, Conn., deem thelr old oak the most beautiful tree Im New Eng- land. A hundred years ago its top was cut off to use in “bushing in” hayseed, and the young tree then put off many branches near the ground. Some of these have grown toa th of sixty feet and are very large. The trunk is 153¢ feet circumference. 5 nothing of the law of development; and that, no matter how greatly retarded by ignorance and stu- Pidity,its action is inevitable, even in go shifting and changeful an arena as that occupied by mod- ern dress. ‘They particularly dislike the advent of useful ideas, as these mean less money spent. and less dependence upon their authority. WOVEN GARMENTS. The finest and most far-reaching development of modern times, in the way ot garments for women, consists In the woven garments of silk, wool, and silk and wool, which come in the form of underwear, capes, jackets and jerseys. The idea of woven garments,or garments formed of elastic cloth, is not by any means epheme- ral. Itis bound to grow. Already It produces caps, capes, leggings, basques, petticoats, vests and complete underwear, the whole garment covering the body evenly, and being finished in one piece. Persons who know how near human perfec- tion these union garments have been brought, how well they are shaped, how soft to the touch, how sanitary in their protecting and healttitul influence, will make no change in this respect at least, because change means loss and misfortune when you have got just what you want for your purpose. The Jersey to dealers was a caprice; to wearers arevelation. For the first time in their lives they could use their arms treely when they were “dressed;” for the first time raise, wave them, throw a stone, hit a ball, or in any other way exercise them without pulling up, disarranging, or dislocating some part of the machinery which girded their arms and waists. Does any one suppose they are such idiots as to give up this newly-acqnired freedom? The jersey may dis- appear for a time, though even that is not prob- able, but the woven garment, in that or some other shape, will survive and save the multi- | soos of costumes, the necessity which has eretofore existed for a special dress for boat- ing or ball-playing, for gymnastic training or any healthful exercise whatever, and has greatly hindered the practice of active games and useful arts by the majority of girls. HEALTHFUL AND HELPFUL SCHOOL DRESS. One of the most gratifying signs of progress isthe general awakening in regard to school dress. It has heretofore been considered enough to discourage a lavish display of jew- elry, but a girl could be thinly clad in cold weather; she could change from thick wool to thin silk; she could encase her arms in skin- tight sleeves and pull her dresses together within a quarter of an Inch of her life—and no one thought of protesting against her folly. But gymnastics in schools have accomplished something; they have established the fact that in the ordinary dress the girl cannot raise or use her arms, and it has at last dawned upon teachers and Intelligent mothers that she ought to beable to use them elsewhere than in the gymnasium. The appalling fact that there Is barely a single strong healthy woman or girl left in these United States has at last suggested that there may be some connection between health and dress; between dress and develop- ment; between the universal “nerves” and the universal anxieties, worries and tortures that assall women in regard to the ever recurring problems of their clothes. We talk of dress as “frivolous.” It is the most serious question in the woman’s life of to-day. and no girl or woman can accomplish any important work or poe who has not practically settled it for erself. The principal of one of the most fashionable schools in New York will not permit her pupils to wear a dress of any material save wool or cotton—the formerin winter; the latter in milder weather, if they choose. Agirl wearingaveivet suit one day was sent home with a m that her dress must be changed to one adapted for school wear. The mother of the girl returned a reply that it was a last year’s suit which must be utilized or it would be outgrown. The teacher was inflexible. She said the school- room was no place for cast-off finery; that the moral effect was bad and the final result worse than the present loss. The lesson was a salu- tary one, and if all teachers knew what was wanted {n this reapect and demanded it of their upiis much would be accomplished for the fotare generation of women. FIVE NECESSARY RULES. Acchool in Massachusetts recommends to its two hundred girl students a sensible school dress, of which the following are some of the features: First, it is to consist of single layers of clothing so that warmth shall be equally dis- tributed over the body; secondly. it should be sufficiently loose not to impose restrictions upon the free and active use of the muscles; third, the materials should be soft, unexciting in color and undistinguishable in pattern; fourth, the design should suggest rather than outline the figure, unless the material is elastic, and should be divided into few parts in order to be free from distractions; fifth, it should avoid Whatever 1s unnecessary or that takes time and strength that could be better put into work or lay. : . The combination Snes garnet of knitted wool or cotton, or both; the skirt of pleated wool attached to a lining waist cut with a sprin; over the hip, and a polonaise or woven “Jersey, supplies the requirements for such a dress. If the polonalse is employed, the lining waist may be extended so as to peume ent 6 oer flounce of the wool to bring it to tl length of a walking skirt, thus it Lt cleces cheaper. polonaise should be at the back, a of the fuliness being taken out of the and cut with @ whole sack front, which could be belted in. The sleeves should be cut very high, and somewhat fall,at the top, so as to surround the arm atthe,aocket and allow free movement. All ‘irts mae of wool should be attached te a hping waist, as this equalizes both warmth and weight. AUTUMN WAUKING DRESSES. All the new dresses for antuma street wear partake more or less of ‘the coat form, with a walking skirt, which J pleated and trimmed lengthwise, and so a¢ to. preserve its flat appearance upon the ront'and sides, and a puffed or draped back. The design is usually cut away from the front'more or less, and some- times forms long doubfe lappéis, and sometimes shows panels inserted,between the front and back of the skirt whdre it Joins the drapery. This last, however, is only Admissible with a combination ef materials plain and figured, the latter being used for the coat and front of the skirt, the rest plain for the rest of the skirt and the tucked upright panels. The most tashionable autumn suits are of plain cloth in fine qualities and beautiful shades and mixtares of dark red, wine, plum, garnet, mouse gray blue, brown and red copper. The trimming is principally braid—black or gold—and the fastening 1s executed with small stone or solid gold buttons. The most costly “stone” button is the croco dolite or cat’s-eye, but there are very pretty buttons to match every shade of cloth, and almost every mixture, and some that are engraved by genuine artists, aud are each one worthy of being worn asa gem. Gold braid 1s not usually put on continuoualy, but in straps of unequal length, pointed at the ends and forming a military front or border. Nothing white is worn at the throat or wrists with these suits, but round the throat is worn a dog collar of elastic gold or black velvet, with gold coins attached, and gold bangles cover the wrists, or long wrinkled gloves. Black braid and braided ornaments have ac- quired great vogue, but the effect ts only good upon the imported suits or with imported trim- mings. The reason is that heretofore we have had no braiding attachment to sewing machines that could be used by the ordinary operator without stitching it through, which reduced the value for ornamental purposes. The difficulty has been partly met by making braided trim- mings in close passementerie designs, as before remarked, and arranging them so that they could be used continuously, in sections, or a3 separate ornaments. These are, of course, ex- pensive it carefully made and of pure material, and it not they are not worth using. “Solid” suits consist of a skirt, as well as redingote of cloth, the front of the former lald in upright box pleats and enriched through the center with rows of chain braiding, or with “macaroons” of brald set closely together so as to form a stripe of any required length. The redingote is cut away from this front, and either forms a draperied back or opens to dis- close it, the trimmings being repeated in jacket or collarette form upon the bodice, and some- times upon the sides of the coat. THE TRIMMING OF CLOAKS AND JACKETS. Braiding, however, has never been as perma- nent or as popular as it might have been, forthe reason that at accessible prices braided gar- ments and costumes have always been more or less coarse and co! place, and the skill of the sewing machine operator has not sufficed to cover her stitenes or enable her to produce con- trasted or artistic effects. The absence of these qualities in home-made productions of this de- scription has been pripcipally felt in the orna- mentation and finish of cloth cloaks and jackets. These are very readily and effectively trimmed ifthe thick narrow “Hercules” braid be set up in knife blade patterns and the double fold braid arranged in supplementary designs and made secure without visible fastening. This, it isnow belleved, will be accomplished. A woman has invented a braiding attachment which does the work perfectly, and though it1s too late to affect the market for this season, it will prob- ably revolutionize the processes of ornamenting cloth and braid In the future. Velvet trimming is .to be very fashionable this season, particularly upon the all-wool checks and the combinations of checks with plain wool. A new design of this description is dark grey in tone, the ground shade of the check matching the plain wool. The bodice has folds of the check which are crossed in front at the waist line and fastened with a velvet strap or belt from which are suspended velvet straps that form a looping for the close folds of the panies, which, as well as the drapery at the ack, exhibits the plain material. The skirt is ofthe check, with upright panel of the plain upon the front, laid in straight folds ard alter- pating with broad box pleats of the check. The sleeves, as well as the bodice, are of thechecked material, but there is a piain tucked vest of the plain, which Is finished at the throat with a and and bow of velvet and an upright pleat- ing of the plain wool, inside of which is one of pleated muslin. This, from one of the best houses, 1s an indication that velvet will be used largely in the composition or for the ornamenta- tion of woolen costumes, and that the restora- tion of velvet, the most beautiful and becoming of all fabrics, is considered established. One of the graceful new designs in costumes— new Not in the sense of novelty, but of the sea- son—consists of a very dark plum-colored over- dress, looped high at the sides and ornamented with brandebourgs down the entire front, overa skirt formed of fine double kiltings fastened only part of the way down and having a ladder of heavy cords knotted over them at one side and cord and tassel like a bell-rope upon the other. A new tweed walls cloak or ulster is made with a plaited back and epauletted cape. Hoods are also revived, and are lined with the bright- est colors. A REAL LOSS TO WOMAN. Ladies who had an experience with the co- operative enterprise during its brief but pleas- ant career will begin to realize their loss now that the approach of the cold season demands warm clothing. In three respects it offered to them advantages they never had before so cer- tainly or to the same extent. One of these was in the varied supply of well-cut and “tailor- made” costumes at moderate prices: another was in the practical character of the cloak and outside garments, which are always one of the most disturbing problems in the whole range of the wardrobe, and a third the convenient read- ing and reception room which no dry goods house in New York can now afford its custom- ers, Lord & Taylor instituted one once, and diecontinued it; Mr. Stewart started one just before his death, but made a show-room of it; but not a single house in New York does for its customers what White and Jordan, Marsh & Company, of Boston, do for theirs, viz: provide a beautifully fitted suite of rooms with attendants, baggage-room, writing facili- ties, balcony views and every convenience and requisite for making time pass agreeably, or for ladies living out of town. Doubtless it is more of a necessity in Boston, where ladies live so much more in the suburbs than in New York; still there are a sufficient number, one would think, to whom such facilities would be a boon to make it an object for some large dry goods house to supply them. Well made cioth suits are at all times Inacces- sible to the majority on account of their cost. When strictly made and finished they are either imported or supplied by some tailor dreas- maker at as high rates as the imported, and there is the complaint in the latter case that the oe too rigid, and that no regard is paid to ion. THE STAGE AS: AN EXAMPLE. Stage dressing exercises ali enormous influ- ence upon the dress of women in general, whether for good or eyjl, and it is a pity that this potent factor was not taken more largely into account and made to feel its responsibility. Heretofore it has been either ignored or praised or blamed without discrimination, and without any sense or knowledge of the fitness or unfit- ness of what was eulogized or censured. The cost was the great point. If the wardrobe of an actress was made in Paris, cost several thousand dollars, it was taken for granted that it must be superlative, and glowing epithets were upon it accordingly. It will be curious to observe the impression made by Miss Ellen Terry, whose exquisite dramatic art Is papplementea by an ;instingt for dress that amounts to a elxth segse. No matter in what character she aj er dress always seems to be an absolute part of it, and to belong to it so entirely that one could not imagine it clothed in any other garb. The dresses designed for the character of “Vera” in Mr. Oscar Wilde's play of that name, show an excellent eye for color and much re- finement of taste. The evening tollet of mag- nificent ames co ee ae cee Radar groupes of large flowers held loosely together looped at the sides over a rich petticoat of Otto- man satin, the looping effected by heavy silk cords from which are suspended on one side an open ne ket Stee with Lor tebe oe isa peasant dress which ts perfection In way—so simple and charming in color—with its okt of possock blue; its bodice, the upper part brown, he lower showing shaded stripes; and the white waist with its full sleeves, The black and id is academic—very and very rent from the ordinary domino. And there is a classic dress and mantle in two shades of red that would make a suitable garb for the fair Helen of Troy. more than the merely mechanical sense,though, indeed, that is not to be despised—that, inshort, Possesses artistic character, which means that it Sveaks for itself naturally, and says no more than it means. The stage, as one form of art, ought to preserve to us our ideals, or farnish them if they are lost. It is not exclusively a trade or means of making money. Constantl; before the public, actors and actresses shoul be stimulated tobe always at their best, and women have the double opportunity of suppie- menting the mimic art with the art of dress, and of showing other women what can be done in the way of making it a medium of varied ex- pression. English women, it has been thouzht, could teach American women nothing in regard to dress. Nor can they, so far as the conven- tlonalism of tashion is concerned, or the fre- quent changes, of which they care little; but they are much more courageous and truthfal in following out an idea or presenting a type, and can, therefore, teach us much in regard to the expression of character through the medium of dress, either on or off the stage. A costume photograph of an English actress lately attracted universal attention in a Broad- way window from the free expressive carriage of the stately figure, whose dress ot white bro- caded satin was covered with a long black cloak of figured plush clasped at the throat and held open by the arm in motion. The cape turned a Uttle back, and the whole action of the figure— its beauty and simple elegance suggesting Dorothy Vernon as she opened the door upon the “pleasaunce” at Haddon Hall, when she es- capedifrom her home to marry her lover, Lord John Manners, It is not probable that this was Just what was meant; but this or something akin was what was suggested, and it is some- thing to suggest a character anda story by a dress, a mantle or a turn of the head, a move- ment of the armand a glimpse of a foot em- bodied instantaneously in a photograph. There will bea great deal of costume and character studying during the coming winter, for society is distressed at being considered inane, and it wantsto get up a reputation for ideas. It will therefore ransack libraries and investigate the poets for materials to work upon. But it takes brains to properly use brains, and if all the fools that fall into the clutches of so- ciety are as completely denuded of the beauty and very essence of their thought as some that have been experimented upon heretofore the gain to art in any direction will not be great. A MODERN NECESSITY. In the meantimé there are ladles whom the question of dress does not greatly disturb, who order their annual walking dress of wool, visit- ing dress of velvet, and dinner or evening dress of satin or brocade, without troubling them- selves about minor changes, leaving all that to be settled by a competent dressmaker. But there is one costume which has come to be con- sidered of the tirst importance. It is the short or walking dress for day receptions. Afternoon “teas” in the season are now more frequent than evening parties, and the short dress is recog- ized as more suitable than a train, as it is infl- poy. More convenient and comfortable. But the dress must be handsome and completed by a bonnet, and the bonnet must bear its proper relation fo the dress; and as these conditions are permanent it follows that there must be a corre- sponding continuance of essential qualities in the dress itself. An obvious costume for this purpose is of velvet throughout, or velvet com- ined with satin, plain or brocaded. or satin lain and satin brocaded in combination. There an objection to fur astoo warm—and to plush, as too heavy, and to both as effected injuriously by heated air. Ladies who do not walk. who possess carriages of their own, rarely wear cos- tumes on these occasions. They prefer a dinner tollet, walking length, which can be covered and protected during the drive by a fur-lined wrap. It is cooler looking and more at homein a drawing room. Very suitable dresses for dinners or receptions are made of satin duchesse with pleated fronts and broad trimming ot Irish point, turned over flat and extending around theneck and down the sides of the dress, which is edged at the bottom with three narrow knife pleatings. The trim- ming also forms cuffs for the sleeves. Another method of arranging the same design is to cut the edges out in lanceolated leaves and put pleatings of lace under them. Of course any lady could cover such a toilet with a wrap and wear-{t for walking as well as riding; but it would be less suitable for such a purpose, and less generally useful than a complete dress that may be utilized for theater parties, calling or other purposes. ODDS AND ENDS. - Brocades for evening wear are magnificent. The patterns are large and combine ottoman and armare effects with satin and raised ines that look like embroidery stitch. The skirts of such as have been made at this early date are long and looped at the side over petticoats of Ottoman Muscovite satin. This latter fabric is thick, close, ana resembles duchesse, except that the loop is shorter, and it is therefore well adapted to combinations and for trimmings, be- cause it Is not liable to fray. Half low bodies and short sleeves have disap- peared, and for young girls charming at home dresses are made of French gray wool, with square necks, trimmed with black velvet and filled in with white muslin and sleeves puffed over the elbow—a sort of “‘ Marguerite” dress which is simple, graceful, and universally be- coming. Cloaks are to be long, and high on the shoul- der, with a modification of the dolman sleeve. Muscovite eatin Ii gy. with plush, is very nand- some, but the br®aded velvet will probably take the lead, lined with rich plush or quilted satin. Quilted silk is now sold by the yard for the ning of ordinary cloaks ; but more costly styles must have special linings. Ladies returning from abroad bring with them and exhibit with great pride “old mas- ters’? hatsof black lace, trimmed with a mass of feathers anda jeweled buckle, or other or- nament. The lace is real thread, and falls over the brim, which is slightly bent. The crown is rather high. The young ladies wear flexible felt ventilated hats, soft and very light in weight, the perfora- tions made, not in the crown, but under the trimming, which is of soft silk in solid or mixed colors. JENNY JUNE. Eng Ladies at the Races. At the opening day at Goodwood, says a cor- respondent, the d‘splay of ladies’ costumes upon the lawn was exceptionally brilliant. The royal stand presented a perfect blaze of color,though, as is frequently—nay, almost invariably—the case, her royal highness, the Princess of Wales, was most plainly dressed of all. She wore a close-fitting navy blue silk and a black straw bonnet, merely decorated with two or three scarlet feathers. The portly Duchess of Teck affected a costume of the nondescript hue, termed “oatmeal,” a tint somewhat resembling curdied cream, while her highness of Saxe-Meiningen was resplendent in 8 garment which bore a strong likeness to an overgrown flower bed, so chaotically mingled were its colors. Fortunately for lovers of the beautiful, some of t! washed-out looking tints, which have been so popular dur- ing the summer, seem to have had their day. There were no ‘‘grocers’ blues” to be disce The circumstance was cheering, inasmuch as Jadies who once patronized that line of garment well nigh led me to believe that they had tash- joned their apparel from second-hand butchers’ smocks, which had suffered badly by repeated visits to the laundry. The “crushed straw- sed with, and thie s a métter slncerely to disper with, ant is is & mi jncere! be deplo: Seek ie nee a cole whichiexater s may part to allude to the matter, but, as soberly chroni- Cling facts, I most observe that Good: has ever been notorious for its display of ladies’ This, no doubt, shocks many lady readers, but they may rest assured that their sex on this side of the water show no compunc- tion of qualms of conscience in contributing to the exhibition. Ladies, as a rule, occupy seats on slo] at pee oon, raised about subject further, or it may be imagined Tete ee tah rhc ta paiedigraitalan eres English Land Owners in America. From the St. James’ Gazatte. Sir Edward Reed, M. P., owns no less than 2,000,000 acres in America; the Duke of RELIGIOUS NOTES, CHURCHES HERE AND ELSEWHERE. —Rey. Dr. Mills, of the 9th street M. P. church, continues his revival meetings Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday event and tents are at the altar at wo kina power pre ge por Sunday, as the first fraits, he received seven members, — The revival mectings at Rev. J. C. Hagey’s charge, North Capitol M. K. church, are still in progress, and numbers are at the altar nightly. Thus far some twenty-five converts have been reported. The many friends of the pastor will be glad to learn that the extra work entatled upon him by these meetings has not tind a bad effect on his health, but on the contrary he is getting stronger daily. — Bishop Turner, of the African M.E. church, is preparing @ revival hymn-book for the de- nomination. — Rev. W. H. Davenport, a Wesleyan Metho- dist, of Michigan, has accept. @ call to the her Brainard Congregational church, Minne- Bota. —The Christian at Work gives Bishop Lee as authority for “the opinion that ‘fasting’ in the New Testament is unauthorized and due to as- cetic bias.” — The Joyful News, the new evangelistic pub- Ncation under the sanction of the British Wes- leyan conference, has already a circulation of 50,000 copies. — The Friends at Winthrop, Me., are building what will be the finest Quaker meeting-house in the country. Are the Friends, too, becoming smitten with pride like other people? —The First Congregational church at Oak- land, Cal., has voted to pay the superintendent. ofits Sunday schoola good salary, so that he can devote his whole time to the work. — Rev. Dwight Spencer has obtained the $10,000 needed for the erection of a Baptist house of worship at Salt Lake City, and re- turned to Utah to superintend the erection of the building. — The tenth anniversary of the organization of the Reformed Episcopal church will be cele- brated on December 10, by special services in the “various churches of the denomination throughout the country. — Rey. Harlan P. Beach and wife, of South Orange, N.J., who are under appointment as missionaries of the American board, Presbyte- rian, were givena ‘‘farewell” by the South Or- ‘ange church last Sunday week. —The United Presbyterians have held an anti-organ convention. It is plain that on the subject of church music they are dis-United Presbyterians, and likely to remain so. The or- gan seems to “have come to stay.” — The Washington and Alexandria Society of Free Methodists will hold camp-meeting at East Falls Church, Va., commencing September 13th, to last eight days. The Free Methodists hold their camp after the old-time plan. —At its recent meeting in Albany the gen- eral synod 6f the Reformed Dutch church adopted resolutions urging a revival of interest in domestic missions. The committee reported that only 300 new churches hed been organized in fifty years, — The Board of Home Missions has appointed Rev. 8. E. Wishard, late of Chicago, to superin- tend its missionary work in the synod of Ken- tucky. He has accepted the appointment, aad will enter on his new duties September 1, eatab- lishing his family home at Danville. — The American Bible Society has over 20 colporteurs now at work in Indiana. Some of the results of this work in Western Indiana tor the last four months are: Families visited, 5,671; families found destitute of the Bible, 918; families supplied by sale or gift, 671. — Mr. Quintin Hogg, of London, has given $350,000 for the purchase and endowment ofthe famous old Polytechnic in Regent street, as a home for his Youths’ Christian Institute. It has a membership of 2,000, and classes attended by 4,000 pupils, with over 1,000 others awaiting vacancies. — Upon the question “Why Don’t They Go to Church?” the Christian Intelligencer thinks it proper to say “that the number increases of those who, whatever may be the freeness ot the water of life, are deterred by the cost of the water tax required to keep the reservoir and pipes in order.” —The Christian Union says, upon the effect of opening the public museums and libraries on Sunday: “In those communities where the library and the museum have been opened they have done neither the ill that was dreaded nor the good that was hoped. they have emptied neither the churches nor the grog shops.” —Dr. Newman Hall argues against the pew- renting system, on gospel and upon economic grounds, and comes to the conclusion that it is not reasonable, not equitable. not expedient, and beyond all question unscriptural. If for no other reason than that it makes improper distinctions In the house of God, he argues that it ought to be abandoned. — Bishop Loughlin, of Brooklyn, preaching in the cathedral In that city, recently. asserted that the Roman Catholic church discounte- nauced excursions on account ot the moral ruin they bring to many, closing his sermon with this sentence: ‘It is in my power to retuse the whole sacrament of the church to those who disobey this command.” The bishop's ani- eyed to excursions is based largely on the fact that quantities of liquor are sold to boys under age. — Rev. Dr. A. G. Haygood, of Georgia, presi- dent of Emory College and of the John F. Slater fand, believes in the fgture of the negroes. In an address at the Chautauqua assembly he said that the cersus showed that the negro did not die out. but increased largely, and there might be 70,000,000 of them in a hundred years hence. The Interest that southern Christians are mani- festing inthe education and elevation of the negro population is among the most encourag- ing signs of the times. —The Faith Cure convention at Old Or- chard, Me., has closed, but prayer-mectings will be continued three times a day for several weeks. About 230 persons attended the con- vention. The most striking cures in answer to prayers during the recent session are allt to have occurred in the case of Miss Gibbs, of Oshawa, Canada, whose cerebro spinal menin- gitis ot six years’ standing was suddenly cured, and in the cate of Miss Jennie C, Ciark, of Ber- wick, Me., whom heart disease scarcely allowed to reach the convention. — The practice of setting apart one or more hens, with the view to give the proceeds to the mission fand, has become very common in Eu- rope, and has begun to prevail in Africa. One missionary writes that at a place about ten miles from Cape Town, knowing that many were poor, he suggested each family should set apart ahen for missions. The year the proceeds of the missionary hens amounted to over twenty-five dollars. One lady always calls at her home on Sunday, “‘mis- sionary eggs,” and the proceeds always go to county, Md., Rev. Harvey Stanley, D. D., rector, is about to be repaired by the putting on IST OF LETTERS REMA’ THB L WASHINGTON CITY POST OFF on SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER &, 1883. Fw-To obtain any of thee Letters the applicant must tome ‘not called for within one month they will be sem: FRANK B. CONGER, Postmaster. ire Mary Mrs = Sizwinie Mrs = Necey — aris ire 7 Sarah Baskerville Mary Miss Jackson Wicinie aie, coo jarman ise jefferson Mattie Miss ‘Carrie Mins johnson Lillie Mrs ey Lucinda Mrs ob ton Nellie Mra johnson Mary Mes Blake Josie Miss Ferouse Kate Mise alow Mamie Bogan Mary Miss tham Fannie Miss Boston Louisa Mre Leftwich Mary Mrs Brady Mi KM Lemon James Mre rent Janie K Lewis Caroline Mrs M ‘areball James Mre jathew Eliza Mrs (ool) Medley Nora Mrs jerchant wn Thomas J ‘Luis Miss Browne Sarah ier bliza Mins Buchan C Mise Diiler John Mra Burke India V Mrs Butler Jane orrie Mi ine Byrne M Mra Morrison Henry Mew Caldwell Cora Miss Morse BH Mew, 2 Gallen Goorce M Mire uns Fannie Mre Campbell MJ Mra lurray Helen Mee Gariems Mary Mise Scholls doe Mia mens Miss choles E Miss Clement Gracie Miss Orheally Mee Cobaueh Boasie Mi Parker BW Mre ‘Conner Annie Misa Nereon Henrietta Mie rump Cora Miss Pauey Mary Mre Peives Anna Mew ingen lenrictta Vinton MissPerry N I Mre Davis Jennie H Powell Hattie J Mrs Davis Nancy Miss witt Mra reon Sarah Mies = Prince Mamte Mins y Frances Mira ay sor Blanch: Miss Duckett Martha Miss Hattie Mrs Epetectae «| Ecect me E ia L Mire inde Lon Tetin Buillecn, Mary Mise obinean Bettie Mra rs ers dna Mire ning Herman Mrs Roeeu! Ferris Vios Miss Mre ie Miss Carrie Mrs r Clara Miss Bands AL Mise Hitchin Josephine Miss Roott Mary Miss,2 a Kate. ‘Binge Annie Miss Ford Sallie Mins Bimms« Suede Mra Frazer Anuie Mise Smith Kate Miss Gallagner Jane Miss Bmith Lizzie Mies Gry Annie Somers Wn Mrs Spears Jeanie Mig Sterns Alisa Stewart Fla Bose fone Ln Tebecea Mine ton George Mrs Tip er Auntie Mrs ‘Trocedaie Clara Mise Hampson 8 Mrs Yeazic Mary Jane Miss Hawes sophie M We shington Rosie Hawkins Mary E Mire Webster Mary Miss Hen Mi Wheeier Missos ‘Heuson Sarah White Minnie Mica Hern Kate Mins Wilber Amy Mise Hiul Mrs Wilhams Adoline Mre Hoskins Mre Willams Catharine Mew Isby Chappell Mrs Wilson Mrs 4 Belle G tre Wilson Kate Mise GENTLEMEN'S LIST. jcorn CI johnson | Armetead Churchwell Jolson Mr Mr Johnson Walt 8 Bisckmore Abrom Kempier ryant Clarence Berry © Enateg x Batten Ke tthe x zi — Becigalupe Gio Batta = King Mortimer Butler Jas mul Burne A, Beunett Michael a Benson 8 B lin Alonzo ME Brooks Saul Ea Blane 5H & Go Moutoye 8 Banks Wm jartin Boswell Wm Moore J Cramer BD Jon: Carter Col Geo W ilieson Lawrence ® Gampbelt Jas 3 Matthews tezelder as, news ti ‘Coliius Juo F Biller ‘Clark Joun, 2 Corner John air icLonald James Clarke NG ny Cordier jewton Jefferson: ‘Clifton Koss, Nephew J Chambers 8 T n Ji Comuar 8 @ O'Connor Patricks Cardin WT yn Arthur Davton Chas 1 Decker Isaker o Frankiin Dow iichie A tJ F Dillard Wn Mt isiey Louis W Eldridge Ben) a ‘Michael Ervin ES comers F Edwards G W Roberts Mil Eastwood Jamio Koss Win Henry Finehatr Chester A Rowe WE. ‘ard F Btrous aC Foster Fred L Bhieids AW Ferry James Smith Clinton Farmer John Equires Cor, Farrar Mr Smith Dr E Fitzsimmons P F inkfeld ~am E@ —— fe ray Chas: nuit Gray Chas Shiceder Gerrit & Godwin Mr & Mrs F Symonds i Garland Spencer John Graff Geo Bomerviile Jas A Gray Jno B Belvell Sno M Gariner J Stard Mr Gray Jno & Sweet sullivan O Georse J rhomnon J Glover WT plett kT Guilagher ‘obet F, 2 Houston Alex M, 2 Valentine James Heath Jerry Wade Alt Heary IW Whinwen Maj AA Humphrey John Wisson Hi Robt Wiilis Geo E. Harrell L F Wackerman Jno 8 Harley Willie Wootson Ji dues Wan Witmer Joe joues C reigeht Jackson Henry b meer aed jones Henr} jarren, Jones Semen Warde 1 (MD) Jones James Ware Maj Wm Jonnson J. Ws mit LIST OF LETTERS REMAINING IN THE GEORGE. TOWN, D. C., POST OFFICE, Sarurpar, Szrrempen 8, 1883. LADIES’ LIST. Barker George A Mrs Welb Ellen Johuson Sarah A Mrs Williams Eliza L ‘Lee Mary,2 GENTLEMEN'S LIST. William Rolter W: Davis Edward Small Nath Fluberiy b G LIST OF LETTERS REMAINING IN EASE CAPITOL STATION, Sarvapax, Sxrrewsrn 8, 1683. LADIES’ LIST. Bell Ketio Mise ‘Simms I Miss ‘Hill Mary J Mies ‘Bkinner Josephine Miss NEW DESIGNS IN GAS FIXTURES, And are selling single and doubie Swing GAS BRACKETS, ‘In Brass and Gilt, at 40 and 50 cents each, and other goods proportionately low. ‘We have a line of COOKING RANGES at variow Prices, from $8.60 to $150. TRON TILE FIRE-PLACES, with BRASS FRAMES, from $12.50 to $75. BRASS ANDIRONS, from $5.50 to $50 per pair. PORTABLE BUCKET GRATES, from $5 to$50. PARLOB GRATES, from $10 to $100. GAS BURNERS and GLOBES at LOW PRICES, EDWARD CAVERLY & CO., ‘Plumbing, Heating and Ventilating, 1425 New York avenue. J. W. SCHAEFER’S, Javanese cnouta, vara ETC, and Decocnlive Pickares, J, Say Gould, (2190104 mtd