Evening Star Newspaper, April 1, 1882, Page 3

HOME MATTERS. aPOUT TOUGH MEAT—IOW TO MAKE TRA— THINGS USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL—HEALTH HINTS, A Prerry Way to arrange Easter cards !s to fasten them to ribbons of the same width as the card, and hang the ribbon on a little easel. Butrer Scorce—the children’s favorite—is Made of one cup of butter, one cup of sugar, and one cup of molasses. Boil until it hardens in cold water. Then spread it thinly in pans, and mark it in little squares or diamonds. Hanpsome Tisie Spreaps aremade of square or diamond shaped blocks of silk, pieced to- gether after the manner of the old-iime bed- spread, only in this case the seams may be or- Ramented with neediework. Put on a border of plush or velvet, and finish with a rich fringe. Tr You Wisu To Avorp having all the raisins you put in a pudding sink to the bottom, fellow this rule: Cook the raisins in alittle water on the top of the stove; then, when the pudding is half done, stir the raisins in. They wili be evenly distributed through it, and there will be prenty of time for the crust to form on the top of the pudding. A Faxcy or tHe Hour in the way of wall decoration is this: Cut a pasteboard founda- tion the size of a tea plate. Cover it with car- dinal or scariet satin. Around the edge fasten the tips of peacocks’ feathers; catch them with strong threads tothe under side. On this mat or plaque paint or put on in applique work a grotesque figure. These are to be hung on the Wall, or may be used as mats. Hicxory-xvt Drops, which are truly delicious for man or child, are made of one pound of white sugar, one pound of nuts chopped fine, the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, three tablespoonfuls of flour; all. thor- oughly together, and drop on buttered tins. Bake in a slow oven. Crease them with a knife when nearly done, so that they may be broken in pieces. Watch carefully, and do not bake too *“LEMON-RATSIN Pre” 1s a novelty for this sea- son of the year, when fhe storeroom shelves show many vacant jars and cans: Cut one lemon in two parts, remove the seed, then chop it fine, skin and*all, with one cup of raisins. Cook in | one cup of water slowly on the baok part of the | stove. Add one cup.of sugar. This quantity makes a small pie. Bake with upper and under crust, but make the upper one thin.—New York | "ost. Tr WILL Soon be time. if it isnot already, to look over the summer clothing, and put it in order. Stockings and gloves especially may now | be mended, and put aside again. if any of your | last season's lisle thread gloves were put away | soiled, they can be washed so that they will look | aknost as cood as new. Take warm water and | some whit vap—toilet soap will do. Put the gloves on your lands; rub the soap on them, and roceed exactly as if you were washing your | ands. them in clear, warm,water. Keep them ona few minutes; then hang them up to dry. If you have never fried this, you will be surprised at the result_—W. Y. Post. Certars Rvtes Asour Tea.—No matter what variety may be used, there are certain rales absolutely essential for all. To begin with, never use a tin tea-pot if any earthen one isobtainable. An even teaspoonfal of dry tea is the usual allowance fora person. Seald the teapot with a littie boiling water and pour it off. Put in the tea, pour on about a teacupful of boiling water, letting it stand a minute or two for the leaves to swell. Then fill w:th the required amount of water, still boiling, this be- ing about a small cupful to a person. Cover closely and let it stand for five minutes. Ten will be required for English breakfast tea, but never boil either, above all ina tin pot. Boiling liberates the tannie acid of the tea which acts upon the tin, making a compound bitter and metailic in taste and uafit for human stomachs: Our Continent. TovcH Meats THE Best.—Miss Parlos, in a lecture on -‘ Marketing” in New York City this week, explained the confusion that often arises when people learn where the sirloin, porter- house and round steaks are situated from ple- tares, and then goto the market and find the pieces of the beef there in positions entirely dif- ferent from those in the picture. She then Pointed out the different parts of the quarters as they are found in the markets and explained athe different ways of cooking them. She ex- what parts are tenderer than others and said that the tougher parts were the best; they were healthier, firmer and more nutri- tious, forthe reason that through them the blood flowed more freely than through the ten- derer parts, which were less exercised. ‘Cook the tenderloin for yourselves,” she said, “if you have good health, but don't give it to your sick triends under any circumstances.” Miss Parloa gave as the reason for the high price for what are considered the best steaks and roasts, even where beef is very plenty, the demand on the part of both rich and poor for those tender parts of the beef which form a very small part of theox. She exhorted her hearers to set the example to poorer people of learning how to utilize the more nutritious portions of the beef in soup “stocks,” by stewing and by “brazing.” Nasal Catarru.—a radical error underlies nearly all medical treatment. A salt-rheum ap- Pears on the hand. An ignorant doctor says, “It is a disease of the skin.” He applies an ointment. The irruption disappears. An ul- cer appears onthe ankle. The ignorant doc- tor says, “It is a disease of the ankle.” He ap — asalve. The sore disappears. There isa lischarze of matter from the ear. The ignorant doctor says, “The ear is diseased.” He prescribes an injection. The discharge stops. A case of nasal catarrh is presented. The igno- rant doctor saya, ‘*This ndse is sick.” He pre- scribesa snuff. The discharge stops. In every case the apparent relief is temporary. The difficulty soon returns and is worse than before. Harw has been done. Often, other difficulties have been added. In every one of these cases the ignorant doctor bas mistaken the seat < the malady. Of course his prescription is a Salt-rheum is not a disease of theskin. It is 8 disease of the system, showing itself in the skin. Catarrh is not a disease of the man’s nese. It is a disease of the man showing itself ia bis nose. But to return to the nasal catarrh. A man has a catarrhal discharge from his nose. He is mostly confined to sedentary habits. His diges- tion is weak, bowels constipated, head du and general condition altogether unsatisfactory. He comes to me with a long story about his catarrh, and finally wishes to know ifI have any confi- @euce in the advertised cures for this disgusting affliction; would be willing to take anything or do anything if he could only get rid of this hor- Tible nuisance, ete. sonal You do exactly wha will advise for s wee! “Yes; I wouldn't mind standing on’ my head for that length of time, if I conlt only reduce myself to the use of one pocket handkerchief a lat a piece of beefsteak half as large as your | designs hand, one baked and one slice of bread for your breakfast; a piece of roast beef as large ‘8 your hand. with one boiled and one slice of bread for your dinner; nothing for eng: jawed go to bed at half-past eight. P, if possible. half an hour before dinner. Drink as much cold water on rising in the morn- ing and on lying down at night as you can con- veniently swallow, and you may add draughts | for, young, slender, yet well-rounded women; Wash in two or three waters, and rinse | it NG FASHIONS. NewDresses,New Bonnets and New Par- asols for the Season—Effect of Esthetic Ideas on Dress—Crude Color Supple- mented by Delicate Shades and Har- monies—Esthetic Costumes that are Worn—The New Summer Satines—A Fortune that Can Easily be Acquired— Some New Traveling Dresscs—Summer Trimmings. From Our Own Correspondent. New Yorx, March 31. On the whole women may be satisfied with their clothes for the present and coming season. Among the designs that are fantastic there are quite enough that are good and sensible to pre- vent those who wish to walk on in the even tenor of their way from being obliged to part from their ideals—and, indeed, the “show” in much leas than it seems through the medium of exaggerated newspaper paragraphs, which are nothing if not exaggerated. Essentials remain very much as they were: that 1s, we have still the convenient walking skirt; the simple, durable class of materials; the freedom from bustles and tournures; and an entire absence of superfluous drapery. If dray is needed or wanted, hewever, the latitude of fashion is such that any amount of it can be supplied. We have still for spring wear the tailor-made suit, with stitching and buttons for finish, and the neat hat to match for those who wish them to serve for summer tray- | tw: eling and excursions. And, lastly, we have large hats and bonnets, for which women who have reached middle age, or suffer from neural- have coi to sai it to be oe mplexions ve, ought There has been some altering back and forth, asusual. Last year the jacket bodices were of brocade, and the trimmed skirts worn ith them were of solid material. This year the jackets are plain, and the skirts striped, checked or figured. Ayear ago the overskirts were long; now they are dra short, and the disposition continues to get rid of them altogether, or substitute the ecarf-sash or dra- pery. The “Jersey” bodice remains, notwith- standing the successful effort to revive the coat bodice, and among the most admired dresses for young girls are the striped and kilted skirts, the slender, perfectly-moulded bodice of the plain material, and the scarf-sash over the hi knotted or drawn through a ring on one side. The throat is easily and becomingly finished by a round collar of the stripe Ini pleats, to match the skirt. These costumes are made in pure wool of a fine, soft texture, and area study of lovely color and contrast. There are olives and browns,.old blue (the blue of old China), and a pure Bordeaux shade. There are browns and pinkish salmon, the darker color always forming the solid portion of the dress, and there are shades of red, with ficelle or twine, (a rattan dark shade of pretty color,) which are effective, the ficeile being used for the bodice. Of course, the “Jersey” dress is only suitable and, if worn without exaggeration or comietry, a perfectly modest and charmingly dainty It ought not to be worn ina single, semi-transparent crépy fabric, or by a large, very fully developed woman; because the first contains the suggestion of indecency—it looks as if the wearer would be indecent if shecould— while the second is vulgar and betrays the ab- sence of a refined taste. But it must be re- membered that the Jersey dresa, the upper part of which is fitted and lined and adjusted to seams, like anyother basque waist, is a very different thing from the Jersey independent bod- ice, which is knitted in a close elastic stocking stitch, and drawn over the body like a supple- mentary skin, This is quite as bad as wearing “tights” in public. It is disgraceful if it den't fit; it is indecent if it does. COLOR is an immense factor in dress at present, and a very fair test of the amount of art and culture which @ woman puts into her clothing, or at least how far she keeps in support with the most recent ideas in making her selection. Art and esthetic ideas in dress have done much for us in introducing a new world of color, a world of meaning, of depth of expression, such as of late years. previous to this era, we knew nothing. If any one wishes to be convinced of the trath of this statement let them compare the fine art shades with materials of to-day with those often, fifteen and twenty-five years ago. Every year the improvement is manifest and the- shades or tones develop @ more subtle consciousness, a growing character which contains possibilities of harmonious relations with the persons and influences with which it is brought in contact, whom and of which itis destined to become Bhat ery ssn Biorb is no color so significant, so le of tender, hel; ful, growing expression. _It is in the sul med art shades universally becoming; and it fraternizes with more colora than any other except those that do not auarrel because of their fixed and eternal neutrality. Who does not remember what were called the “grass” greens and apple greens of a few years azo? They were the ns of paper flags on St. Patrick’s day. these greens by the greens of grass and leaves, even at their brightest, and one will be astonished at the quiet depth, the delicacy and subdued character of the natural tint—and the garish tone of the artificial one— the immense difference between what we call nature and what is natute. ¢ The esthetic school have endeavored to get rid of the entire system of crude color, substi- bea: = it the patente of net tones— such colors as are found upon old china, tapestry, painting, and needlework; and tae certain extent they have succeeded. The best English and French manufacturers have been glad to adopt ideas which had all the attraction of nov- elty and all the force of tradition. Particularly where atmospheric influences are favorable, colors have been lowered, deepened, and the general tone greatly improved In this country it is more difficult to create a new departure of aj oe because the — eg the bites an lerness necessary to the production of the most perfect dyes; secondly, because the licy of the country is to sustain its manu- pended not improve its manufactures. Our art colors are therefore confined to imported fabrics and materials, and the price puts them out of the reach of any but the rich, or at least those who can afford luxuries. Still one good effect has been produced: Our manufacturers have been stimulated to the production of variety in color and to attempts at imitation. Unfortunately, the failures of the art school have afforded opportunities for exaggeration and misrepresentation on the of tl who never lose the opportunity to ulge im either, and instead of recelving the credit to which it is fairly entitled, it is individual follies the art schools ished by women throughout the country are doing much to eo! this false idea, and the wisdom is beginningto be ap) nt of the absolute standard which the New York Societ: of Decorative Art first created for itself, whi it has maintained, and which is fast raising it to the rank ofa true art school. In the experien- ces of this society ithas been found that the genius for the work among the women 1 this country who execute art-made work is far su- tina boon carried ta much great pers ign muel fo~ tion than with us. Almost the original come from the Kensington school— while in the execution of permanent art-needle- work it is essential to use English material, our colors and methods of manufacture not pro- ducing the necessary results. AN ART SCHOOL, FOR DRESS. What we need now is a school that will traly express art in dress and maintain as absolute a standard as the art decorative societies do in made responsible for and propensities. But and societies —_establ- of cold water, if you wish, before eating your meals. Live four to six hours a day inthe open air, riding inthe saddle and walking. Bathe tly, and every night, on going to rab the skin hard with hair gloves. In less Manxovp (Samy Barovpr) Pasma, who at this moment the first part in the needlework and decorative painting. Few wo- men know what words mean, and art terms and “esthetic” terms and the rest of it are constantly per writer the say 0} WEpa| other d raved over what he called “m¢ estheticism, ventional furnace the water if the likely to be put to the test. If American women are not all artists they are not all idiots,and many of them are intelligent as well as modest. Thus the announcement that “low necked dresses have entirely superseded high necked dresses” must be taken with many grains of allowance. The eewsor of women who have bought, or had made low in the neck—that is, not square or V shaped. but leaving the shoulders and back exposed,—to the whole number who have purchased or had dresses made, is less than five per cent exclusive of actresses; and ef those who own these low necked dresses, the number of times when they have been or can be worn is exceedingly limited. These results are upon abroad survey of the ergund, and take in others than the merely ex e and strictly fashionable or high priced dressmakers. It refers also to a season during which more low necked dresses have been worn than for many Seasons previously. . THE PRACTICAL AMERICAN DRES?. In fact there is too little individuality, too little differentiation in the ordinary dress of American women. Their dresses, cloaks and | aie are as alike as or mould candles. ‘hey are practical as their lives, and made to put to many uses. They are good in their way —somefimes, when not spoiled by ignorance— but essentially and, necessarily commion place jecet Bans made in dozens, or by gross, an stacked in piles of different sizes. A well known house sold this spring nine hundred costumes in these different styles, one silk, one combina- tion, one plain wool. They were all “medium” in style and quality; they were all dark and useful for general wear; and they went off be- een seasons with the greatest rapidity, be- cause a certain amount of thinking had been done upon them ; because they were unobtra- sive and could be worn any time and any where. The range of prices was from twenty-five to six- ty-five dollars, the first for plain wool suits, the ter for silks, or silks combined with satin or ® small quantity of plush. The “made-up” dresses, which are sold in large quantities, are meeps indistinctive—they must follow a model and strike an average, If a dress is to be made to suit the individual, it must be de- signed by- the individual, and made by some one capable of out a design which she has not seen and thi ee Lae il; and this in- volves still higher cost. The average American Woman therefore takes the best that she can find. within the limit of her means, and is*thankful it is not worse. There was a time, not so long ago, when a dress ready for wear could not be purotiaved for love or money. Now the regula- jon article can be prose of any description, from the cheap and untidy cotton wrapper for one or two dollars. to the trained and draped and paniered and fringed and vyerlaid party and ail costume, at from one hundred and fifty to five hundred dollars. What one cannot get ia anything out of the regulation style. ESTHETIC DRESS AND IDEAS. ‘We talk about esthetic dress, but in society there is only the dimmest idea of what esthetic dress means. The caricatures in “Patience” have furnished the only definite conception of what it truly means—and of these Mr. Gilbert (who supplied the designs) has said-that he had hever seen an “esthetic” dress, and that these were only his ideaof the “sort hing” itought to be. In reality the dress of the rapturous maidens is an unwearable costume in every day life, and no girl or woman who was sane would think of adopting it. The classic dress as worn by a beautiful young harpist of New York, Miss Maud Morgan, is on the contrary not only grace- fal, but wearable. It consists of an under dress with a straight skirt, ‘-baby” waist, witn the sleeves gathered lengthwise on the under part of the arm; the outer edge being clasped or but- toned on the upper arm. Over this a long tunic is held into the waist under a box pleat, by a belt which fastens under the tunic at the back also. The shoulders are simply clasped to- gether, the length forming an open flowing sleeve. The cut is exceedingly simple, but very gtacefal on a tall, slender young girl with a very beautiful figure. Cashmere is nearly al- ways selected for these costumes because it is the most suitable for softly flowing drapery. One exhibits an under dressof cream color, with a tunic of old gold trimmed with gold embroid- ery and fringe. Another was of salmon pink over cream. and a third of shrimp pink over cream—the cashmere trimmed with silver bands and the tunic with fringe. Buttens and clasps were of silver. For an evening dress Miss Mor- gan wore recently a tunic of white silk mull over an under dress of white satin, the under dress richly embroidered, the tunic finished with bands of fringe and gold. ~ There two other genuine styles of esthetic dress. One is the full short waist, with wide belt; short, straight, much rufiled, skirt; puffed or small leg of mutton sleeve. The other is the or mMoyenage bodice cut square; the skirt slightly gored in front and upon the sides, and gather to the fe of the bodice. The sleeves are full and divided into two puffs, by wide bands, one at the top, the other over the elbow, the lower part terminating in a deep ruff shaped to the arm. An esthetic looking costume worn at a recent evening reception consisted of a long Gabrielle or princesse dress of white, soft Rumchunder siik—a genuine artistic silk—cut square and sleeveless, but trimmed as a border upon the square neck, round the arm holes and round the bottom with swansdown. Another handsome dress was also a princesse, and was made of pure olive satin, the cool shade, with train of moire antique brocaded in a very large flower and leaf pattern, in cream tints mixed with olive. The satin front was cut up to the knee in three different places and knife pleated gores of cream satininserted;and thedeep low square atthe neck was filled in with full silk mull, shirredand finished with a ruche of the same embroldered with gold on the edge. The sleeves of this dress were long and were edged with gold embroidered silk mull. At a recent festivity the young ladies wore “early English” or “Patience” dresses—the early English mean- ing the straight ruffled skirt, the baby waist and puffed or short sleeves; the ‘‘Patience,” a very short striped or kilted skirt, a fish wife tu- nic, and square pointed bodice, with a long fall puff for sleeves and opera trimmed straw bonnet faced with daisies or small sunflowers. One Greek dress was pale blue, painted with Jacques roses, and one dress represented the “Byehe” in “Cinderella.” A lovely dress of pa'e silk was painted and trimmed with autumn leaves, and one of black satine, was almost cov- ered with blossoming wisteria. ne Esthetic ideas are @ boon for indoor dress, in- formal little parties, the summer dress of girls, end such times and occasions as do not demand formal or conventional dress. But one rule ought to be rigidly observed, and that is purity of material. No cetton velvet, or linen-backed satin, or mixed and linen, or silk and wool should be used for dresses made in the esthetic style. The material must be pure—cotton,wool, or silk, no matter which, but not seeming to be what it Is not—for the very essence of esthetic dressing is its truthfulness. A FORTUNE IN_PERSPECTIVE. There is money in any of our large cities for any clever woman who could open an establish- ment, on anot too large a scale, and make a specialty of esthetic styles and certain other de- scriptions of costume which do not change very materially; that are not subject to such rigid conventional laws as the conventional articles of attire, and therefore afford scope for individual taste and skill—morning gowns, for example; luating dresses; lawn tennis and he like. At present no one knows where to go or who to apply to for artistic material when an artistic dress is required. At least they do not in New York, and It is safe to predict that it will be some city- ‘Chi hat, the realization of this idea if it has not been initiated already. In London there is an artistic house—Liberly & Co.—where only artistic stuffs can be procured. Here is found the Umritza cashmere, in the thin and thicker makes, with the camel's hair finish—a = Indian fabric - peacock Rapp tien a Ines, sage olives, dead-l wns, old- gol ana t terra cotta and Venetian bed | used to convey the most commonplace, not to | and cream grounds, posite, ideas. A ner t belted double white mall Eee up @ Simple artistic manner and leave to the flimsy cotton cre} extton cheese eloths, the gauzy nun’s veiling: .d other thin stuffs which have no pattera tuspoil—and none to dfs- cover and take pleasure in—the task of forming innumerable small ruffles; being drawn off into een up into the inevitable THE RED BONNET. The bonnet, or hat, whichever it is, has be- come the most striking and distinctive part of the costume. The white straws haye almost disappeared, and in their place we have reds, olives, peacock blues, old gold, and lastly twine color open, solid and glaze. - It is strange, but the dark red straws, the old gold straws, and the olive and bronze straws aré not at all so loud and nounced as one Weuld imagine, and in their quaint or picturesque shapes, with ostrich feathers for trimming of the same shade, and a facing of velvet or eatin, are wonderfully distin- guished, especially with Nzht-or cream colored dresses, such as will be worn with them at gar- den parties and the like. Hats were in the first lace a protest against ‘conventionality, and have maintained their inde lence. Young women and women who are not young will the Gainsborough hat and the esthetic poke who enter the severest protest against any oe departure from the strictly conventional ideas. The large hats and bonnets are not, how- ever, universal. The small bonnets with crowns of beaded or gold embroidered lace, the fronts drawn or covered with lace similar to the crown, Teappear, and there are also many bonnets cey- ered with black or cream Spanish |: he gar- niture a cluster of richly shaded tulips or large crushed roses. Ribbons are made expressly for the large bow which is a feature of the modified poke, and the genius in making and placing it is exhibited in contriving that the scrawly design shall be ¢learly traceable in the large oops and ends, if one has curiosity enough to look for it. For those who do not like the dark hats, there are some lovely light manilla straws, which are faced with delicate shades, shrimp pink, straw cdlor, and pale blue. Pale gold and cream, straw color and pale blue, the faint i known as shrimp and lichen green (the ightest shade), make lovely combinations in Tich trimming. But it does injustice to color effects now a days to simply speak of crude com- binations, for shades are so toned, and’so many melt into one color, that the bald statement does not represent the facts. THE NEW PARASOIS. Parasols are even more pronounced than the bonnets. ‘They are large, they are in very high colors, some of them, though the majority are aseverin black, cream color, or the shades of pongee. The new features area shirred rufile, lined and edged with deep lace, very original sticks of natural wood, English ash, box-wood, twisted roots, bamboo, and the like, and a large spray of artificial flowers att@ched as a supplc- mentary decoration to the center of the scarf bow, with lace ends, which ornament the top, Nothing could be imagined more characteristic of the flam boyant character of popular fashion at the peat juncture than this great spray of artificial flowers on the top of a parasol. The materials are moire antique, red, and old gold, often covered as far as the ruffle with handsome black Spanish lace; satin, satin rhadames and narrow clustered striped satin and moire. Cream-colored surah is used for summer para- sols on very narrow pinked-out ruffles, alter- nating with cream Spanish lace. These parasols have a very soft and pretty effect, lined with Be pink, blue or straw color. The flowers are uttercups and daisies, shaded violets, yellow cowslips, lilies of the valley, hedge roses, and thelike. Some large black parasols are made of satin and lace in the same way and lined with heliotrope, red or old Le The flower garni- ture may be Scotch thistles or. variegated roses. Pongee is always used for quiet summer para- sols by a very refined class of people. They are lined with white or some delicate color, and have a deep border of Spanish point lace. The sticks are bamboo, with a twisted hoop handle. PONGEE DRESSES. Pongee is the one artistic material we always possess, and there is nothing more lovely or more useful for summer costumes. It is cool, yet close, 80 that it does not need a silk lining beneath, as do many of our summer fabrics; and, though pure silk,- it washes like a piece of white cotton cloth. It is easily laid and kept in fold, yet drapes gracefully, and has coolness without the chill of linen ‘or thin lustre silks, and more firmness than the gauzy crepe mate- tials which in silk are so expensive as to be out of reach, and in cotton are uncertain and every way detestable. For several years pongees in the plece have been accompanied by an extra length, embroid- ered for trimming, occasionally in a very good design, but which greatly enhanced the price. Quite as often, however, the choice of colors in the embroidery renders it unfit for use. Shades of amber, of olive, of old blue, with the minut- est touch of red, are effective and harmonize with the general tone of the fabric; but when the embroidery is executed principally on red and warm browns the cool, resttul sentiment of the dress is destroyed. A pretty way of making these costumes is to put a moderately deep knife pleating round the bottom of the skirt. Acrogs.the front lay a scant flounce of the embroidery between two deeper, but scant and falling, puffs of pongee. Above the upper one, and directly in front, lay a small apron of the embroidery. and arrange the small side pantersof the basque, which should be of the embroidery,so that a festooned effect will be obtained. A fan shaped pleating with embroidered border should be inserted in the back of the basque and fall over the slight, irregular drapery, which is short, reaching only to the top of the kilted flounce. A round shirred collar of the embroidery finishes the waist at the throat. Pongees make very cool and pretty wraps for summer wear, and may be utilized with white or any other dresses with which the almond- tinted cloths may be worn. _ The simplest form is the best. A small rounded mantelet which obtains a visite effect from a strap, which is a continuation of the lower part of the shoulder- piece, ana whose opposite end is fastened to the sides of the back, forming with the shoulder-piece a sort of sleeve, while the back is held to the figure without a belt for the pur- pose. A bonnet of manilla straw—open, faced with pale amber, blue, or shrimp pink; the exterior trimming cream lace, shaded bronze leaves, cowslips, cornflowers or hé roses— should be worn with pongee dresses; but being @ cool neutral and artistic materialdo not wear with it beaded bonnets or unnatural conven- tionalized flowers, BOME NEW TRAVELING DRESSES. Some very charming traveling costumes have been made recently for southern trips, which are both useful and distinguished. The dresses are fine camel’s hair or Umnitza cashmere, in very dark myrtle green, olive or bronze, cut whole, of ae, ‘of walking length, ‘and trimmed we open euleoines on ee ee This open embroidery is very deep in its great- est width, but is “Traded ruffies across the front, and to outline a or jacket if required. This simple dress, which is all in one piece. is accompanied by a cloak of corah silk of the same shade as the wool, which completely envelops the Itis ‘Mother Hubbard,” or rather a modification of that jue past. cluaks are made of camel’s hair to match the dresses and lined with corah; and this is un- doubtedly a more usefal method. The ulsters or cloaks of fine twilled silk, however, wear for warm weather . For ocean travel, dark blue and wine-colored in which are plenty of suitable and circular 1 suitably for scant | to RELIGIOUS NOTES. — The‘Lutheran charges at Jennertown, Pa., and Boaisburg, Centre county, are now vacant. —Rey. A. T. M. Handy has accepted # call to the pastorate of the tist Farwell, Loudoun oot Rae ee — Rev. J. T. Lassell, who has taken charge of he Ninth-street M. P. church, finds this church Clear of debt on the church building, but, the parsonaze property adjoining is eacum! — Rev. E. C. Cowl, pastor of a Methodist Protestant church of Pittsburg, Pa.. has become a Unitari an, and succeeds Rey. Mr. Miln as pas- tor of the Chicago Unitarian chureh. — The Rey. J. Harry Chesley, late of Mary- land, has arrived at Hampton to do the important mission work at Newport News and other points around Hampton, Va. r —Boston goes west for her ministers now. Tremont Temple lately went to Denver for its pastor, less recently the Park street congrega- tion called an Indianapolis minister, and now St. Paul's Episcopal church calls Rev, Frederick Courtney, of Chicago. —Dean-Farrar has contributed to tlie Confem- porary Review a strong article on the Revised Version, in which he stakes his reputation as a scholar and his faith as a man on its final suc~ cess, and roundly compares the criticism made upon it with the assaults leveled at King James’ version on its appearance. — According to a resolution passed at its an- nual meeting in Boston on February 8, the New England Divorce Reform League has addressed a circular to clergymen, throughout the country asking them to preach‘on the approaching Fast Day sermons with respect to the evils of polyg- amy and divorce, — Nothing is more demoralizing than gamb- ling. Church rafiies are the devil's infernal ma- “chines; they come in like harmles amusements, but they appeal to the same passion which fills the gambling saloon and the policy shops. Art raffles, likechurch rafiles, are Satan coming as 2, angeP of light.—New York Onristian A te. —The Rev. Dr. James Houston Eccleston, now pastor of Trinity church, Newark, N. J., has been called to St. George's Protestant Episcopal church, in New York city. He was born in Chestertown, Md., In 1837, and was or- dained in St. Paul’s church, in Baltimore, in 1865. He is unmarried, and is one ofthe most widely known clergymen of the Protestant Episcopal denomination. —The Rey. George H. Austin, who forged a note at Madison, Ind., and escaped with the money, says that he resolyed never to preach again, because he deemed his crime a sufficient reason for quitting the pulpit. He went to Texas, and engaged in school teaching,” under an assumed name. After several months, however, he was offered a | job at lecturing, and from that he went into | preaching again, which led to his identification. —dJohn G. Craddock Is the gray-haired editor ofthe Zrue Kentuckian. For many years he has sipped his mint-julep and drawn solace from the depth of the Bourbon bowl. On the even- ing of the 11th instant Mr. Craddock arose in the midst of a meeting at Paris, , and told Mr. Barnes, the mountain evangelist, that he had been born again, that he saw the light shining in the streets of New Jerusalem, and that his soul was saved. —Bishop A. Cleveland Coxe, of Buffalo, N. Y., and formerly rector ot Grace church, Baltimore, is undergoing a painful ordeal by the publica- tion in the Chicago Tribune of an alleged poem under his sacerdotal signature, entitled “The Avenging Czar,” containing a fierce denuncia- tion of our German citiz The bishop is rea- sonably indignant at this forgery—all the more So because he has received numerous condem- natory letters from exasperated Germans. — There has been a split in that division the Salvation Army which has been trying to evangelize Ireland. The new organization is known as the Hallelujah Army. Its general is naméd Gault, aud its methods are about as wild and sensational as those of the original salva- tionists. The Halleinjah Army has its head- quaters in Ballymena, and carries on its opera- tions in eight or ten towns. It issues a weekly paper, which begins to have a large circula- tion. —The North Carolina avenue Methodist Protestant church, which at the recent session of the Maryland annual conference, was left without a pastor, is endeavoring to secure the services of Rey. J. W. Trout, who very accept- ably served the church a few years ago. Mr. Trout was recently appointed*to Eutaw, Balti- more county, Md., and it is understood that if the president of the conference can send a minister there Mr. Trout will settie at the North Carolina avenue church. —Nonsense, the hint that any minister ts likely to get into trouble from ordinary parish visits, because he is so apt to find only the women at home. Let him only behave with proper reserve and dignity and he needs no acci- dent insurance pe icy to warrant his safety; but let him be a fool, and go around grecting the young women with ‘a holy kiss” and making long visits where he ought to make short ones, and his business becomes far more dangerous than that of a Gloucester sailor.—The Cdngrega- tionalist. — One of the most astounding things in the religious world is the extraordinary growth of the Methodist Episcopal church since the open- ing of the present year. .The Methodist has been keeping a careful account of the conversions reported by all the churches which consent to send their reports. Thus far 1,294 of the churches have reported that 30,653 persons have been converted since the ist of January. This is the more wonderful in view of the fact that there are 17,656 Methodist churches, and that the total number of additions to them during 1881 was only 25,892. Ifconversions and addi- tions go on for the rest of this year as they have begun, the increase will be the most phenomenal on record. —The changes in the pastorates of the various Methodist churches in the District have been effected, and the new ministers have made the acquaintance of their congregations. Last Sunday they occupied their pulpits for the first time, and this week they have been arrang- ing to move their families. On Wednesday next Rev. Dr. France, of the Fourth-street church, will move to this city, and on Tuesday Rev. Mr. Weech, of the Union M. 5. church. Rey. Mr. Webster, of Georgetown, will move some time during the coming k. Rev. Mr. Reed, of the North itol church, and Rev. Hagey, of Grace church, have already moved. The churches, under their new pastors, are working admirably, and the ministers have been cordially received. —At Melrose, Mass.,a new plan has been tried as to the eatables at the church sociables. It had been the custom of the ladies to contrib- ute the food and to serve it. Now it falls to the Het ok ene uae ee takin one some of them are at serv: les, yt proved be liberal givers as regards auntie: They provided without that delicate attention to pro- tions which is generally ‘are responsible for arepast. Of some ar- ticles there was @ great excess, while others were almost entirely omitted. The waiting on the tables was done in a very through manner, and indeed somewhat forcefully when two or three of the waiting would unex- pectedly come into collision, while eatables and drinkables. The ladies enjo; the fan of being served by the men on whom they had often waited. — On the much-vexed question of liturgy for the Presbyterian church the Rev. Dr. Henry A. Nelson makes a vigorous appeal for freedom from all do not think want of ven in which to utter bat of LADIES’ GOODS. uot ® STHSTneeTs NORTE “XD TR, ‘Will open on WEDNESDAY NEXT, THE 29TH! INST., several cases of UNTRIMMED STRAWS, Fe GA Lal se OS Bishop E. 0. Haven, known to the entire land, was Unaecountably awakened one nicht out of a sound sleep end lay awake until morning. His mind seemed unusu- ally active, and he not only reviewed his past life, which ‘had.been an eventful one, but iat extensive plans for thefature. He did not feel especially fll, but could not account for the unusual activity of his brain nor for the restlessness which seemed to possess him. In the morn- ing he had but little appetite, but was apparently well in otber respects. In a few days, however, he beean to feel restless and morbid, although he tried earnest'y to My Sttea Rorrest, a 608 9th street, opposite Patent OMice, Bee cyened-e choles adlection of chine tely eal DRESSES, ROB! MERINO AND MARSEILLES CLOAKS, Tack AND SHIRRED CAPs, and all kinds of CHILDREN'S FURNISHING GOODS. overcome the festing which had taken possession of him. | qfisgant ine of HAMBURG ETCHINGS and But try as he wonld the shadow of some evil seemed to | beaded FRING! TGMMTSGS nd BU follow him,and he was conscious of axradualsinkineand | lane and new stock of HOSTERY, LISLE Wasting away of all his physical faculties. Hehad bem | 299 SILK GLOVES. HAND! an earnest and dilizent worker, and im his zeal fre- ee = = quently overtaxed his strength. and being sbeorbed in | QPRING OPENING.—MRS. ©. V. SMITH. No. 618 his duties fai:ed to obzerve the common symptoms with Sintra STREET NORTHWEST, will to which he was aflicted, tins permitting the work of de- ene RIG HATS aD DONaENS Be struction to oon unheeded. But the end finally came | SuamiS1. FN@ MATS AND BONNETS, MARCI in a most peremptory manuer. Shortly before bis death he wrote a letter—the last one he ever indite’—in which ho speaks as follows: “*A belief that death isnear a‘fects minds differently, but probably all who are in a fair condition of physical and mental strength instinctively ehrink from it with an indefinable dread and horror. A sing man is no more able of himself to foresee his own destiny or the destiny of those he leaves than he was before he began to die.” The recent sad and sudden death of Hon. Clarkson X Potter is one of the most serious warnings ever given in the long list of innumerable cases of fatal neclect. It is graine SPECIALTIES. Suite: Drees Trimmings, and three Style at cost until closed out. M. WILLIAN,- 907 PENNSYLVANIA AVENUB. SCite Treview, Paris. Entire Stock of GLOV! not sufficient to say that many other brilliant men, in- potas = cluding Everett, Sumner, Chase, Wood, Wil on and Nom axD r Carpenter, were swept away by the same fatal trouble. CONTINUATION ‘The question is, were these men sufficiently careful of their health, and could they have b#en saved? The Albany Argus, in speaking of Mr. Potter's sudden ill- ness and death, says: P “‘One of the physicians who attended Mr. Potter here was interviewed last evening. He stated that Mr. Pot- ters inability to converse had for some time served to beffie the physicians in their efforts to determine the root of his illness. Itsecms, however, that Mr. Potter, come two years ago, suffered a slight attack of kidney divease. Unwire dependence upon 2 robust constita- tion and naturally perfect health, and neglect of proper clothing, doubtless sowed the seeds of a disease that needed but some such personal neglect as that of Tues- day morning to develop. From the symptoms at first shown, it was thought that his only trouble was nervous prostration ; but his long continuance in a semi-uncon- scious state led to the belief that his illness was seated in a chronic difficulty more mysterious and danger- ous.” Up to the latter part of last year Mr. Edward F. Rook, member of the New York Stock Exch business in Wall street, OF THE GREAT SALE OF LADIES' UNDERGARMENTS, TWO CASES MORE | = OO SAENEE Ad Baan SunRRA Baa DOUGLASS’, Nixta Srrerr. ES: 2; BRUCE, No. 499 orw STREET, NEAR F, porthwest. Stainping, Vanbroideriag sind terials. Art Needlework taught, privately and by skilled artists. Dresses and Clo Ladies’ and Misees’ Corsets of the best Dr. Waruer’s, the Thomson Giove Pitti Waist for Children. Sole for celebrated Abdomint i M' ME. WASHI BR AKING AND TRIMMING SPORE, 1211 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., ‘Suits, Costames, Cloaks, &c., mafe In eupe. rior style at short notice, “Ladies cau have Dresses out and basted, and « perfect fit cuaranteed. ‘ME. VON BRANDIS, MODISTR, Victim of unaccountable uneasiness, His experience as | $36 Pennsylvania ave.,over Dempeey"s Stationers Store, described by one who knew was as foil “tAtunex- | Formerly with Lord "& Taylor, New York, and Wim pected times and on occasions wh: had the greatest reason to feel Joyous he was irritable and haunted with strange feelings of discontent. He endeavored to check these feetings and appear pleasant, but # required a great eifort to do so: efter which he wou!d again relapse into his former morbid mood. ‘This for a number of months, when he bec: anadded sensation of lassitade. He was tired even when resting, and although experiencing no acute pain, had dull, xching sensations in his limbs snd various parts of hisbody. Short'y afterward his head began to ache most frequently and his stomach failed to digest properly. Being told that he was suffering from malaria he consulted an eminent physician, who informed him thst his kidneys were slightly affected, and gave him medicine to restore them. Bat he grew worse instead of better. He then consulted otuer eminent doctors of another school and was in- Tra Con St T Bridal Trousseaas, Doumane ati Suite, ‘a tae at Tae a notice; ject work, superior fitting; sutiefs kuarantewd. : 226-6m, __ GENTLEMEN'S GOODS. Sa a WE AE UNDERSELLING EVERYBODY Im DKESS SHIKTS. Lenen Collars, Linen Cuffs, Silk Neckwear, Cotton Socks, Undershirts and Drawers, New styies of Percale Shi the very best quality, only $1.25. ~ Fine Percale Shirts, only 75 cents. Finest Dress Shirts to order, elegantly made, only $2. ‘Six fine Dress Shirts to order for §9. All goods are guaranteed to give satisfaction in every formed that he hada brain difficulty somewhat in the | 3,2 EGINNISS", 1002 F street northwest. nature of a tumor, batin spite of all efforts to the con- — = a trary he continued to grow worse. ‘At this time his oon- | J\HOMPSON'S dition was terrible. What were at first simple symp- shown when the’} toms had developed to terrible troubles, He was flushed and feverish. constantly uneasy, and yetalways weary. DRESS SHIRT MANUFACTORY Hehadanintense appetite one day and vers little the — next, His pulse was irregular, his breathing labored, MEN'S FURNISHING EMPORIUM, and every moment of existence was a burden. These 816 F Street Northwest. disastrous symptoms continued, his ace and body be- NECKWEAR, came discolored, his heart was irrgular in its action, FOOTWEAR, and his came in short, convulsive gasps. He amaxvses HANDWEAR, grew consiaifly worse, notwithstanding the utmost pre- | Readymade SHIRTS st following prices: oo. cautions of his friends, and finally died in the greatest eat the Ee anniensa. O5c.. ‘Sie. szony. After his death an examination as to its actual | Boy's Wammatta’ usfinichea: 606. ‘Toe. 320 cause was made, when his brain was found to be in a perfect condition, and the reason of his disease was of an entirely different nature” ‘The experiences which have been aged above all had a common cause and were each the result of one disease. That disease, which so deceitfully, yet surely removed the people above mentioned, was Bright's disease of the Kidneys. In the caseof Mr. Rook the exaynination after death, while showing the brain to be in perfect condi- tion, revealed the terrible fact that he was the victim of Aslight kidney trouble, which had gone on unchecked, until it resulted in acute Bright's disease. ‘Fhe leading phsyicians and scientists of the world are fast learning that more than one-half the deaths which occur are caused by this monstrousscourge. Itis one of the mos ¢ deceitful maladies ever known to the human race. It manifests itself by symptoms so slightand common, as to seem unworthy of attention; and yet these very in- significant symptoms are the first stages of the worst complaint known in the history ef the world. Thous- ands of people have died from troubles that are called heart disease, apoplexy, pneumonia, brain fever, and similar diseases, when it was in fact ht’s disease of the kidneys. The ravages of this isoase have boen greatly increased from the fact that until recent years no way was known to prevent its be- ginning nor check its increase when it had become once fixed upon the system. Within the past two sears, however, we have learned of more than four hundred pronounced cases of Bright's divease, many of them much worse than those above described, and most of whom had been given up by prominent physicians, who have been compietely cured. ‘The means usd to ac- complish this end has beon Warner's Safe Kidney and Liver Cure, manufactared in Rochester, N. ¥., arem- edy that bas won its way into the eon idence of the pub- Iie solely upon the ble merits it possesses. AB a result, it is more widely used and thoroughly praised than any medicine which hasever been before the American public. Indeed there is not adrug store in the entire land where it cannot be found. Although Bright's disease isso common in cities, it is still more prevalent in the country. When eminent physicians in the largest cities are not able to recornize Bright's disease, it is only natural that in the country, where there are few physicians of any kind, and those few so unacquainted with the disease as to call it by some other name, it should rage terribly ana yet un- known to the ones who are suffering with it. Thou- sands of people can look back and recall the deatn of friends from what was supposed to be some common complaint, when it was really Bright's disease, and no one knew it, The terrible pleuro-pneumonia which has been so dreaded, is usnally the result of uremic or kid- ney poison. Lung fever can be traced to a similar source. Most cases of paralysis arise from the same difficulty, as well as innumerable fevers, lung, throat, head and bowel troubles. A vast number of ladies have DUBREUVIL BROTHERS, MANUFACTURERS: FINE DRESS SHIRTS 1112 F Sreeer Norrawesr, Wasumatox, D.C. ‘Dress Shirts to order. orde: Bis of the Finest Six Extra Fine Bhirte to ‘Six Fine Shirts to order. PIANOS AND ORGANS. | S AND ORGANS T E SECOND OFF! SPECIAL BARGAINS IN PIANOS AND ORGANS = CHAUNCEY J. REED, (SUCCESSOR BO SIDNEY T. XIMMO,) 483 SEVENTH STREET NORTHWEST, is as follows; No. J.-A anagnificent Upright Crbi Gran PIANO, new, and warranted for # years: wanufsézured’ and for sale ob uecount Of one of the mort celebrated plano makers in Balti- more: very low for cash, or $50 cash and balance monthiy. No. 2.—A Double Round Rosewood Square Grand, Isrand New, and in every respect, PLANO, by saine maker as No. 1. Terms, ditt. of those celebrated Chickering Bicol and Cover. ‘Ler, aa Bro No. 8.—A: PIANOS, wit $150. . 4A 1 Ban used Ouly sit muoutng Iya alize at once; $170. Ternus, $50 cash, ». 5. ood PIAN celebrated Yor maker, P6990 caoh: balance menage No. 6.—A genuine Double Reed, Smith AMERICAN ORGAN, “Gash, 45. oviak wat ay mn Pam ace moutaly. cause have been known, it would have been found to be ‘Bright's disease, masquerading under another name. In marked contrast tothe sad cases which have been above described are the experiences of many prominent people who were as low as any of the persons mentioned, but who were remarkably restored to former health and vigor by this same remedy. Among this number are the following promivent names: Col. John C. Whitner, Atlanta, Ga.; B. F. Larrabee, Boston, Mase,; Gen. ©. A. Heckman, Phillipsburg, N.J.; Rev. D. D, Buck, D.D., Geneva, N.Y.: Br. F. A. McManus, Balt 3 ‘Davenport, CHAUNCEY J. REED, Seen ee eee ALLET DAVIS & C0.°8 H UPRI PIANOS. BARD} Prescott, North Union, O., who is prominent member | "VEE STIEFF. THE Ri jon, Ov, apr A AC bpresed -owlaieinae G. L. WILD & BRO., Bole Agent, ‘700 7th street northwest, near @. Piance and Organs for rent, tuned and repaired. and thst the dangers which swait negloct can only with difficulty be removed. * at SS Fifth Avenue and Fiftieth Street,