Evening Star Newspaper, November 30, 1881, Page 2

DISTRICT. CITY AND I The. Gray and Noyes Partnership a ‘The Christiancy Divorce Case. A.SCENE EEFORE THE EXAMINER, oon Examiner gession in the Chri ve ‘oMice of Messrs. Cuppy and 1 ary F. Lugenbeel, the mother of Mrs. for cress-examination. some of the details of Mr. Chris- ‘Tro a ‘Thursday, Messrs. Cook and Cole for Edwin N. the defendant in the case in which George yes ts plaintiff for a dissolution of the part- é filed his answer, denying tzainst hin. The answer Lovejoy, at the 2 si, end all maturing ‘nd for them had conveyed to own name an interest In a mine property. vated by the indoten usiness of the es’ indolence and atten- on to his farm and personal interests, to the det- artnership, he devolved on Gray keeping the business a Later the trouble was a of Noyes and his Inatte nd because of d nd she (witness) took her and he sald he was drunk at reher testified that while In Lan- Mr. Christiancy and his sons were nearly all It was claimed that during the ratedly prompted When she referred timent of the c lve and in good conduc uy Mrs. Christiancy h that the firm has agrees to the ap- ¥_mode for the set- nent of the business, and says that repeatedly proposed to dissolve and settle seeking to avold this course at Law, Its. that when ‘the & Christiancy and bis Sons becoming drunk Mrs. ristianey made some : h remark as *¥ nl Said she in- first of the noies referred to becs repudiation of them would result in the Breaking estiblished and prosperous busi. that the notes should be mes $13,600, and having mveyed to the Mrs. Lugenbeel was at the jon, and her cross-examination was con- it the only fact brought out was that rences between | and that of the dancy denies sepia Se ‘The German Orphan Asylum Fair. out the diffe BRILLIANT SUCCESS—1 T OF LADIES IN CHARGE OF letters to Giro w A fair for the benefit of the German Orphan at Masonic Temple Monday S of the hall gave e nd careful prepa’ those who attended tha ae, Baron von Sell nd Commissioner Dent, besides man citizens of the District. % stoner Dent made briet ‘Theodore Poesche made rman, and Miss Rosa Poesche re- cited a German poem. Asylum was opened Amusements, &ce Haverty's Comedy Com- | Forp’s Orrna Hot Rut- | Were Seeret German Ministe dingly amusing, “rsof the com: font, and the It whl be rep Was almest continuous. ie Edoutn, Alice Ather- KS Company presented Drean alery, last night. The costumes attendance Jast night. The rharge of the tables at the Miss Amelia Gutte : burg, Miss Tilly Gable, Ligle Keiser and enced yesterday at ‘There will be no extra ‘charge for re: er the auspices of the Wash- | ntry, the two come ope tops.” will be presented at i needlework. No. 4 ¢, Six concerts will hureh by Dr. J. Manager Strakosch an- Ox! : furniture, groceries, Al assistants, Miss Ellen Rehm, b Will be given on Fi Miss Maggie Kelser, M nia Sarders, Miss Philliptne etch. K hood, lamp, worsted tiowers, set of fw bird cages, &c. No. 8, “Orph: Walter in charg: appini as Fer ‘On Saturday evening “Il “ance of the cele ama and Minnie Faney articles, exquisite h, 3 Miss Maggie Sn: large attendance. Iry, musical in: CALVARY BAPTIST CHURC! ‘k. No. 9, “EastWashington”— heuch, Miss Annie Neurath, Miss Susie Heater, Miss ‘Lizde Koons, Miss Carrie Hurlebaus, and Miss M. 5 benetit Cie Nort. cles. The’ floral. bower ts pi ast ditto, as will beseen . Drvex will celebrate the twentieth y business career in Washington, bullock to-morrow ier garden, to is patrons and y e ISS ing, Miss Minnie Giesking, and Miss Lillie Mille t office is run by Mr. Fr his assistants, Henry W Rom Dip Ir.—In the Pols ted Arthur Burzess was ratrunk srom Benjamin t last Satur: 1.C. Geisking, with HALL.—Monday night was the oj t ¢ fair at Willard’s Hall, tor P.E. church, giv Parochial Ald Society. Court yesterday a young mut on trial for A oft At is worth visit his store on 7th street. A ¥ testified to buying the trunk from the The young man took the st ed that he was drunk at the time and did mn bout the matter, a stealing a towel from’ a. nel nt the sane might. The court re- marked that this was a sad flustretion of the Pt bf rum, for he has had to put this young min, Who belongs to a very respectable family, under bonds, for being an habi “ase he will have to id n to jail for 30 days in the first. case, and 10 days additional in the second case, without AMERICAN BANK CASE onday, in the th DECISION IN THE GERM. boring restau Chipty, secured by a deed of trust on U of Mrs Hitz, corner of 9th and G streets. Subse- the purpose of Hauldating the debt, " £20,100 from W.P. Jeni hia, with the tinders the first incumbranc , Of Philadel ual drankard, Dut he was to have nd the tormer deed being Teleased, Mrs. Hitz was induced to deed the prop- eee & ‘The nearly exhausted appro- riation for the repairs of publie SSary to. disper i OvT oF a Jol schools renders ‘or Entwisle has 1 Of that work, 2 very reluctantly been obliged to recommend that the «i tered without t n Hitz, it is vota so far Afi ber interest is vc m Miss Crane are We ina: | dispensed with until the new appropriai implainants, Mrs. Hitz and eats Tenn. AssaviTIne Womes.—Owen Taylor, a notorious colored man, was charged in the Police Court Mon- ulting a white woman named Martha 0 testified that a colored girl ran southwest, and said a and soon afterwards 7 (1 cominenced to swear, and him out and he refused to go, and she sent 2 colored girl for an officer, and he struck at ster knife that he had in his hand, and then struck witness in the side with the and cut her dress, and had it not been for sets he would have cut her. $20 or 60 days for assaulting or 15 days for assaulting the colored girl. ee gee A WASHINGTONIAN’S SUIT AGAINST THE CITY OF ‘Sun of yesterday says: . Morgan, of Wash. mtractor with th Mayor and city council to recover $50. for an alleged breach of contract, W! Ob trial th the t the girl with an rday purt in favor of the plaintiff for being for one item of the e other Items being rejected by the court. Mrs. Hennessy and $5 ‘THE THIEVES ESCAre: 359 Pennsylvan suit of rooms t they were from Buitimore. time, they got w S Pn i thi Mr. Rothford, living at avenue, a few days ago rented a Some young men who represented Friday, in the night p and with the'aid other rooms in the house, and hing, mostly silk’ and Yesterday Detective G d the entire lot stolen, from a ored them to the owher. ped. ND PISTOL IN THE FAMILY CIRcLE.— of No. 10021 street. northwest, was Police Court Monday with making threats of personal violence to Henry Kropp, jr., his son, who testified that his father attempted to draw a knife on him, and he (witness) had to draw a revolver to keep his father from assaulting him. ‘The old gentieman testified that lately he had ali his property, transferred to his wite, his son gotangry and a court’ put them both under sonal bonds to kee} rans left with $15¢ we her the deeds, and to ‘Th colored man named ed, In the Police Court yes- ing « Colored girl named Lena Foster, who testified that she met this man in Mr. ed, Henry jr. afterward mother, Who aj ssault against her hy . The clerk told hee if he pin sent to the the promise that asyluin she could ‘om her, and on her re- ing with a trowel, and not Send him to the the warrant. THE LITERARY AND MUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT Monday evening, at Lincoln Mission, for the bene- fit of the Colored Congregational chureh, was a decided success. The entertainment was under the management of Mr. Reuben 8. Smith, and the i Was the program:—Overture, Madame Best Friend,” Mliss’ P. Ellin ading, “ Separate te Quarrel between Bri flicted, and the case was continued for Tor the defence. and Mr. B. Panne eee Mr. Calvin D. John: Cc jus, and Glostet Te enthusiastic nd,” Miss M. C. Struther, e solo, “ From the Depths, reading’ by Mr. James Carlle were highly com- ly applauded; di M The testimony Was conclu- und the ease was sent to the ‘The law in this Dis- ‘The Courts. Cover IN GENERAL TERM, Yesterday, United States at. mintss!oner of rompel the tssue of patent on label, as Light company; on hearing. Cmcvrr CovrtT—Judge Monday, Flynn et al. agt. {lip suzzested and Ch: administrator, made party. laintiff for $575 with in agt. Leonard; on hearin; for derendant. custom to not charge thei x Tel. Wilcox & an be sent back. Thi agt. Washington tS sentenced to one year in the and this was her first offence Is the first case of the pt to the grand jury. Uhis ts the meaning, if ns agt. Philip; as. Whittington, Halt agt. Cullinane; terest. Knoop ter, of the law agt. Young bet al.; verdict looe Bro. & Co, Judgment by default. Bow a: A Qu¥sE Parrsexsmr.—Wiliis Bundy, colored, ‘Was ‘charged in the Police Court Saturday with Stealing a stove from a colored y Jefferson, who stated that he came to her | ried off Another colored | ra woman named Winnte t Egurry Covrt—Ji t the stove on the part- shh ro, and aerend thee | Monday, Parson agt. should have the | married first | 3 restraining order T; do. In re. John Leonard; Clara Leonard appointed committee. agt. King; auditor's report confirmed. s sTymes; sale ratified nisi. Clark agt. t. Hughes; W. 8. ent agt. Ozment; appearance Corcoran agt. Cor- coran; trustee ordered to distribute cash on hand, K deed to Sarah nd the prison n the prisoner married the woman he | Got the stove too, and there was no larceny in Case, and she was discharged. of absent dete River Trape.— ster Sutton reports Crane declared front as follows: Hitz. Pepper agt. Shepherd; pntesso set aside with I Dennison end D. appointed receivers, Pouce Cover—Judge Snell. rt closed, Robert Bowle days in default of $5 for Henry Ruppert In Joseph Anderson, larceny of pistol, a watch and other articles months in jail Wm. nson, With 13) cords wood f Harbor master Sutton reports ar- | yonday, after our w comunitted for ce of meat from the O street market. FC Heath, John Francis, vith we « aprctirdgn Det Moore und Win, Reed forfelted collateral, Owen rk, 139 ‘Taylor, assault on Martha Hennessy : $20 or 60 days. Also, charged with assault days He was also fined ity. Emmett Scott, ac with, being incorrigible, choot during minori g Ida Butler; $5 or 15 or 15 days for profan— ored boy, Was charged and sent to the reform Isaac Kropp, threats to sonal bonds. louse; $25 or 60 days. Poiics Cocrt—Judge Snel. Tuesday, Alice Crook, and swearing, and was Maxwell, Was sent to the workhouse for 90 days for belug a vagrant and a white man, it of bonds for Kelty, 430 tons tce . Carter, Sommers, 111 tons coal, ry um Pr 100 tons coal, same; steamer Sue, | Kets Keeping a disorder tephenson Bros: sch, tons ice, Indepen- ed guilty to cursing $ or 7 days. Jerry in default of bonds, habitual drunkard. ‘John R. Sma! n for 20 days in defaul 315 tons coal, Stephe Jenny, Lo ae & Bros.: barge W. T. Calla tons coal, Fotomac og ed jones, $30 tons ston®, Miller; sch. How- Reed, wood, Carter eon days additi wood, koe ee Deunis Collins; do. nest brick ; dismissed. (3 Bross Silt | being a vagrantand Uppling house loafer. -ArtMUr tons coal, Ste- | belng & vagra Tunk from in front of Bens. a ae ee ee the larceny of a ‘Sandy bee Prederick f uee, Vian He with wood Tor various DECEMBER FASHIONS. New Lights Upom a Dark Subject— Beautiful Toilets for Beantiful Wo-, men—The Silk of America—The Clonk Problem and Previdence Bonnet. [From Our Own Correspondent. New York, November 29. The dress of women will be likely to have new light thrown upon it through electrici Thea- ters discourage electric Mghts because it dis- closes shams and pretences, coarse painting and bad color. It will do the same in our houses and compel us to be true, and it will educate us to a refinement of-which we do not now dream. The electric light in ball rooms has been found to be transforming. The sheen of rich satins in pale blue, pink and tinted white be- comes silyery in its lustre, and the glitter of fine pearl and white jet embroidery radiance itself. Some complain that the volume of white light produces ghastliness, but this will be remedied, when the electric light is fully understood, by placing it at a distance and transmitting it through tinted or colored glass. Already we see it broken up into clusters in our great syjuares and set high, so that from.a distance, or toa near-sighted individual, it looks like a diamond lamp suspended in the air without ble agency—and the effect within the radius of a to diffuse a clear. soft light, like that of hter, more tangi When these jz lights are transmitted through properly toned and tinted glasses, and are suspended by alinost: invisible means from the ceilings of ball-rooms and drawing rooms a new light will indeed be cast upon all the objects that inhabit them. We shall then discover the hideous effects of was, its yellow glare and smoky exhalations. We shall walk and live in the light, and. this will disclose to us how much we have done that was un- worthy, and suffered that was unnecessary, be- cause of the darkness, which may perhaps have it to us, not having before known fort of human ¢ beauty and sweetness of the air that we breathe and the space that surrounds us. They will also change. or at least m many of the habits and cus- toms of our social life, and for this reason, if for no other, women should keep themselves well informed upon all subjects that relate to the improvement of the conditions which exert a formative influence upon our daily lives, and meusurably upon conduct and character. BEAUTIFUL WOMEN AND BEAUTIFUL TOILETS. This is an age of beauty, or, rather, of a ficti- tious semblance of it, and it is, for this reason, an age of temptation and perf. Form, color, glitter are beauty, and this beauty wins the ap- plause and rules the hour. Fai en ride in state, while good women weep in sackcloth and ashes. Modesty is declared to be mere absence of charm, of power to attract, and fashion justi- fication for any enormit: At the opening s and entertainments of the present season more low-necked dresses have been worn and a inore shameless exposure of person made than has been known for many years previous. It seems as though the absurd and irrational customs which tradition has kept up abroad, but which art probably giving way before modern intelli- gence and enlightenment, were to be revived and obtain a new lease of life here in communi- ties that ought to have freed themselves perma- nently from thi Women in society seem to have divided them- ives into three battalions—one showing more or less of what is considered the esthetic ele- ment; another conservative and w called “old-fashioned” prejudices; a third. ani- y figures upon which the utmost art of aker ix displayed, art that sometimes turns out wonderful, copy-book specimens nd loveliness, sometimes m y lays them with stuff and sezments of d that have no relation to each other aesthetic element, much as it may be ri at least decent; it bears stea: grace of the long line, to the beauty of simple Ids and drapery, to the exqu ense of soft- ness in fabric, and to the distinction of an en- Jarged and enriched sleeve. It has rehabilitated the ancient full and puffed sleeves, and has condemned the cut-up styles, which are hitehed and ruffied and tied back until all beauty of fabric is lost and form becomes a caricature. Doubtiess, the wstheticism which parades big sun-flowers, which expt self in tow: pus complexion, and craze for dirty ant wreens, is open to caricature; but these are fungi, not true xsthetic growths. for esthetic simply means the thouzht, the re- finement, the culture of dress, and expresses itself in the attire of thousands of women who never heard the name of ‘“wsthet.” ‘A lady wore recently at an evening party en- tertainment a dress of dark green vel made vith sleeves full to the elbow. but ter aclose, deep cuff. covered i he skirt was long and plain, with a triple plait the back and double ruche of satin vet round the bottom, but otherwise un- trimmed. The basque was deep, and formed a rounding poiat in tront, and what is known as the “‘lotus-leaf” shape inthe back. It had no trimming whatever, except buttons. But a ‘ze collar, of antique lace, was wi vith it nd amber necklace, of fine opaque and car fully graded beads, and an amber comb. The collar was drawn in a fold from the high tops of the sleeves, and fastened with small cameo pina. This toilet was perfectly simple, yet singulariy effecti It differentiated itself from others, and every one said. “how estheti ‘which was a great complim tothe es ic idea, for it was the most harmonious and least compli- cated dress present. On the same occasion a yi girl wore pink satin merveilieux. front of the skirt was a mass of white jet. The panniered boddice was trimmed with white Jetted lace, the sleeves being composed of it ¢ tirel The boddice was high at the back but niled in with gathered lace on the front, which w y low and square. A cluster of water lillies covered the space. At the side of the w nd a trailof the saine flowers looped deemed necessai the skirt, just below’the knee; into a somewhat jong but narrow train and bordered with a broche stuff in Indian cashmere colors or with art embroidery. A heavy cord forms the girdle. Fine cream, ire blue, primrose, pink and heliot cashmere is used very largely abroad for the evening dresses of young girls, ‘trimmed with cream lace. But here girls want silk. They seem to think that only silk is suitable for dressy wear, yet in reality ‘soft fine wools,which have depth, are much more becom- ing than silk with a giace surface. AMERICAN SILKS. The excellence of American silks is beyond question, and the leading manufacturers now produce satin rhadames,satin merveilleux, satin de lyon, armures, quadrilles and brocaded silks equal to any imported. This advance in mano- facture will stimulate the cultivation of the raw material which has now been made the subject of successful experiments in twenty-two dilfer- ent states. It isto the ladies of Philadelphia we owe the revival of this interest, which. if once established, will afford an opportunity for the lucrative employment of thousands of women and children in their own homes—for manufacturers will take the raw silk as fast as it_is produced, and with filatures for reeling within attainable distance the work can be managed as easily as taking care of plants and nich easier than managing bees. The en- couragement which the parent association has received has induced the ladies inter- h will be ested in it to propose a silk fair, wl heid the last week in January in St. rge’s | Hall, Philadelphia, where the silk of America,— from the smallest worm to the finished pro- duct,—will be abundantly exhibited. To this | fair “American manufacturers wil heir silken articles and fabrics of every descrip- tion. Silk growers from many different, states | will send their cocoon will send the sitk ready for u: embroidery silks, sewing silks, ribbon: handkerchiefs and the like. tive and other societies are preparing orna- mental work, e upon American fabri uted in American silk es and stuffs for upholstery, ‘The supreme merit of the scientific deyelop- | silken hangings and many kinds of goods ment of the d: is that they benetit us all, that | usually supposed to be imported will attest the they add to the value of human 4 to the com- | degree of skill and excellence which silk culture in this country has reached. Prosperous and progressive silk growing in this country med a source of wealth greater than that of th fornia gold and silver mines, and infini ter from the moral and industrial It means the keeping at home the millions of and the manufactured fabries, and it means also a farming and agricul- 1 comnuinities, which will fill the place of asocia- tive companies and establishments. Everybody and there are few Women without at least. one. silk dollars now sent abroad for raw mater pted to those that have been absorbed by great in this country, rich and poor, buys. sil dress in their wardrobe. Here. therefore, where the great market exists, should there be sources ot supply. ENGLISH WOOL. The movement of the Countess of Bective in favor of the English woolen trade is having some good results in stimulating English woolen man- ufacturers tothe production of a softerand more Yielding class of materials. cently sent to this countr el’s-hair cloths, some of which are as fine as chuddah: a “homespun” suiting in_ ti and heather mixtures, and a serge, the stiffness of which has been greatly modified by the intro- dnetion of a mixtare of Vienna wool. strange, however, that a crusade should be in England in favor of woolen es, for it is these that find the most consid- eration from the best class in the community. If the effort is to be simply in favor of alpaca, of compelling ladies to wear that extremely unbending and disagreeable fabric, it ought not bat if it results in winning the artisan to the acceptance of the in able, and teaches him to adapt himself to cir- cumstances and improve his productions in ac- cordance with advancing tastes, then it will, doubtiess, help to reinstate him in his own good opinion and that of the world. It is difficult to see the wisdom of the philan- thropy of wearing an alpaca overskirt trimmed with Alencon lace over white satin, as the Countess of Bective is said to have done. So nt a woman should have more sense of Alpaca is one of the most able of materials, the one, perhaps, best ted for hard wear and rough usa adapted for the uses to which white satin nor would tt be likely to be selected in who could afford richer fabrics. The chanee of successful revival of the British woolen trade lies.in the production of the class of manufacture which haye clearly supplanted the stiff mohair and worsted stuils. England and Germany are alike in their devo- ion to woolen dresses pure and simple. The tailor-made dress is,a product of London, and is not to be seen in, its integrity out of that city. Elsewhere there are always compromises— patches of contrasting colof, of trimming, ef- forts at fanciful looping and decoratin; London alone is the woolen dress perfectly trae nd simple, made absolutely without trimming except stitching, and finished only with buttons and facing, like all tailor-ma rt American lady in London wis vet collar and cuffs added to a tailor which she had siguified her intent The attendant expressed entire willi have anything that she desired, but assured her would spoil it asa specimen of @ genuine | tailor-made English walking suit. So the c ffs were relinquished. Only in Eug- and do young ladiés, the daustters and siste of the highest aristocracy, wear complete cloth suits—heather caps upon their heads, keather to their boots and not a scrap of feather or von or trimming to be seen about them any more than upon the clothing worn by their fathers and brothers. American women do not take kindly to 8, or even for indoor ¥ the graceful drapery of a pure ise, but it must be over a silk or velv and it must be enriched by revers and | wounting of silk or veh women quickly learn the art of reducing dress | : : terms, this bet sity of active outside work, as it is with men. But the for so much that 0 quickly loses its value, and is yet not worn or defaced. given away, of course; but they do not always feel that they can afford to do this or that it is oak and wrap question to a very large number tious women. Articles can be Ventriloquists and right, and thus the c! has become a of refined storie eoeely There was a time when two kinds of cloaks for winter wear were all that were made—the expensive velvet and the respectavle cloth. well-made and neatly-trimmed black cloth, which could ve bought for from fifteen to twenty dollars, was then considered enough for anybody; and the velvet cloaks, for which only rich real Lyons velvet, at ten and twelve dollars per yard, was used, were objects of aspiration certainly, but not atest of of claims to consideration. The silk cloak seems to have made all this disturbance in the ranks of our Silk for a cloak must be It must have a warm come lining, and a border or ornamen- tation of some kind, and therefore, by the time it isan 2ecomplished fact, it costs money. sixty, seventy or eighty dollars isa good deai for the woman who only has ahundred tor her own autumn needs, and those, perhaps, of one or more children, to expend on oneggarment, besides which she could not possibly afford to buy another, and silk taken out and worn com- monly every day looks in a yery few months de- This consideration puts silk cloaks out of the question for many women, but then the question comes back with force, what to have for a substitute, and how to make that one do the work of many. cloaks of almond tinted cloths, with dark plush collars and cuffs, for youn married women, but the: not sober enough for matrons. lies in the selection of darkest shades of velvet beaver cloth, made up with plush yelyet or fur cloaks are handsome and durable, but. they must be made by a first- class modiste, and the pattern nrust be chosen for | its permanent qualifications, not i In this way shade, tone. excelien fabric and design may give a kind of distinction hich would otherwise be merely respectable;” and respectability is assoc with a good, struggling woman who keeps boarders, and’ manages, by striving early and late, to support a famil position or outer garments. heavy quality. the old colored manand the Irishmanare still faced and shabby. ‘There are pretty ladies and young are too youthful and One solution ill contribute tablished filatures » by the manutac- turer, and factories their varied specimens of collar and border. to a garment but not at all with Two of the most elegant cloaks imported this Season were shown me as a fa at the Co-operative Dress Association. had been purchase: ; therefore had not y long coat of Shetland sea lected, and forming a mazniticent garment, fit for an addition to an imperial wardrobe. It was made up with the utmost care, lined with the richest quilted satin, and finished with collar and cuffs of the finest dark beayer. was four hundred dollars, and it was not dear, for not more than one of a thousand could be turned ont of the aggregate of even costly ma- terials like this perfect production. Teason it was instantly seized. the one person in the world to buy the one ex- ceptional thing, the unique obie culty is in finding the people to purchase all the The second cloak was a large Russian in in black silk plush, with a wonderful lined with crimson plush. character of the cloak was obtained from the signers of clothing or dreas- makers understand the distinction that is given by the sleeves alone, when it is marked by de- cided form or ornamentation. the narrow back of the cloak was plain—only crossed low down by thick passementerie cords of rich silk and fine jet, with a long slide and ‘1 on the con- trary, set high and of the long. narrow, dolman , Were exquisitely embroidered upon the plush in rose and leaf patterns, the outlines in solid raised stitch, the veining and filling in the finest net beading and net work. The fasten- ings and finish were as rich broidery, and. with the rendered this garment as di r the other day 1 as soon as open ved. One was a every inch se- There is always The peculiar Some samples re- show handsome cam- In this instance Tt seems fine as the em- mbroidered sleeves, inctive in plush as mistake to. mass trimming or the principal features of the design upon the boddice orskirt of the dress and then add a common- place sleeve; it reduces the level of distinction at THE LARGE BON has been a god send to women with large teatures and of a pronounced type, women who have been forced into small bonnets, whi ‘h cheek bones expo: to compromise with turned up or fioating brims, which only emphasized the points that needed Many women have been made beautiful by the protecting shade of the soft beaver brims and the distinctive finish of the vithout any mixture of frippery the broad face or hi toning down. ostrich feathers, Feathers are in the ascendant this winter for ornamentation, and are more suitable than flowers for the season, although with country gainst black or grey or But long slender and wonderfally uch preferred for the ks, and shaded ostrich holly berries look well shaded feathers are very ign in rich brocaded sil thers are made with pearl and shell or amber ichest fans—fans and fan-shaped bunches of peacock feathers are used for wall decorations; humming birds for looping up white - Fand water green satin dresses; and not only are these hats and bonnets wholly of feathers, but sets consisting of pocket muff and coachman’s | cape, which are made of small over-lappin: feathers of the most brilliant as well as the most ‘The long, pale tan color and mastic gloves are for dress than any other, and have superceded both black and w are always very well worn. Orn always more or less of several narrow being the prettiest and amentation on the gloves i vulgar, bracelets consist has not yet adopted the London en to nine capes ¢ coats, but it has hose, of black an addition to or dark brown silk, in which are inserted tiny blocks consisting of red and dark green. These are the colors of the ‘Prince of Wales,” plaid said to have been invented by him and used by the Princess for herself and chitdre The professional | oe eee MAGICIANS’ ARTFUL WAYS, N — nch-and-Judy Shows im Demand. THE COST OF PROVIDING AMUSEMENTS FOR THRONGS IN QUT-OF-THE-WaY TOW! ARION- ETTES BECOMING POPULAR—TRICKS SELLING Low. From the New York Sun. “The regular magical business is not so good. as it once was. Tricks cost less, secrets are few, and there is less interest in sleight ot hand than there used to be,” Prof. W. J. Judd, the manu- facturer of magicians’ supplies, said. “But there is great activity in ventriloqnism and the Punch-and-Judy business. I never saw such a demand for yentriloquists’ figures as there is now. stock, but now it is as much as we can do to We used to be able to keep the figures in keep up with orders “Has any novelty been introduced that has caused this popularity ? ‘No new figures have been brought out, but “4 most popular, and an old man or an old woman come next. The Chinaman wasintroduced, and it was thought that he would do well, peci- | ally for frontier business, but he doesn't take ‘y well somehow, and some of my customers who took a Chinaman have painted his face black. The negro in a fright isa big attraction. t me show him to you. foot puppet was shown, It had jet expansive eye-whites, and a spi ninouth. ‘The pull of a wire made ar lock of hair to stand on end. them down south,” the profes- | When Paddy here (pointing to ared- headed puppet in a green coat) threat whip Sambo, up goes his fright wig, his eyes roll, his jaw drops, and the people tumble of the benches a-t: These are all good fig- ures—regular kid mouth a see.” The old style of res had a detached jaw that worked into a cieft to represent. talking Figures are now made with kid jaws oyer thi wooden jaw bone, so that the motion of the outh resembles human act he far west and the south are the best fields fo: ‘| busine men makina good deal of money by going | around from one mining camp to another with a colored an, an Irishman, and afew Punch and Judy figures. They make the figures talk mining slang, and they don’t often strike a blind lead or a worked-out vein. 1 knc one ventriloquist who makes a good bit of money with only one figure. The traveling quack doctors down south make use of ven- triloquial performances a great deal. Some a they used to get a man who could pick the banjo and sing a song. Now they get a ventriloquist, and when he draws a crowd they their medicines. When the crowd thins, the ventriloquist. begins again the ventriloquist can do so much advertising. | Paddy or Sambo get sick and complain a great j deal. The doctor gives some of his medicine, and they get well and tell how much good the medicine has done them. The crowd laughs at their funny talk and gesture, and the doctor | cuts in h, ‘Now who'll have another bottie? These doctors pay from $15 to €30.a week and expenses. Every now and then I get a letter from some one of them to engage a_ventrilo- quist. They go from town to town, hire a car- riage and go through the streets, and I guess | they make a good deal of money. “Punch and Judy business never grows old. Outtits cost from $30 to #65. Two or three men ough to 3 money in places that could not support t companies or regular shows. A full Punch and Judy outfit now includes a great many ficures. There are Punch, Ju the baby, the ghost, Scaramouch, the kicking horse, the doctor, a negro, a negress, a Dutebman, an Irishman, pretty Polly, Jack Ketch, the devil, and the snake. It is only of late years that crowds would stand anyt and the act in whieh h his misdeeds, was and callous heart. He kills his wife, the doctor, Scaramouch, and nearly every else. and yet the spectators always laugh ove hiscrimes. Then when Jack Ketch comes to | hang him they roar to see him hang Jack | Ketch instead, and even at church fairs the peo- ple shout with delight when he whips the devil. Some showman thought it would be only right to have the devil carry of Mr. Punch, but-the people wouldn't hayeit. At last anact was in- vented in which Mr. Punch buys a mysterious box from a foreigner, and a biz snake comes out of the box and swallows him alive. The audience roars when Mr. Punch goes scream- ing down the red throat. “Punch and Judy shows go everywhere. There is a man with headquarters at Mauch Chunk who has a regular circuit through the Pennsylvania mining regions. No church fair is complete nowadays without a Punch and Jud: show. A fine show was given at a Ne a church fair not long ago. The price for church entertainment is from $10 to $45. The price paid for the Punch and Judy show at Dr. rf Tyng’s church some time ago was $30. During the summer a big business was done by Punch and Judy men in circus side shows. During the fall county fairs gave them a harvest; now church entertainments are good fields. Punch takes everywhere. I send outfits as far away as Australia, some to Cuba, even to South America. It takes a little practice to learn to use the squeaker, which is held in the mouth to give Mr. Punch’s talk and songs their charac- teristic shrill tone; but a clever, dexterous man learns to manage the puppets. arionettes are becoming popularagain, and are used a good deal in connection with Punch and Judy shows when a hall is used. The ‘Babes in the Wood’ are a good attraction now for church entertainmens. There are puppets rep- resenting the cruel uncle, the ruffians, the two children, the birds who cover them with leaves, and finally the angels who bear them to heaven. As the puppets move the story is repeated from behinds the scenes. It comes in very effectively as a pathetic interlude between the acts of Mr. Punch’s diabolicat revelries. Living marionettes have been recently brought out. In this the per- former puts his head through a slit in a velvet padioeks in’ mak their own accord vlunge” and win is con- the traditions of the English turf ¥ good reasons. The book-makers, net The chances ar therefore, appeared in began betting large quantities of What was known inthe slang believed in Enge nd to be American as his ned certain that, whatever e in the spirit i welcome his de: origin, sources of length of his purse. Very t about him except that he was an American, put a legend soon sprang up to the effect he agent of the owner of one of this owner being a gentle- man who carries on his operations in Wall street, and is recognized as a “monopolist.” If the book-makers had known what a Wall street “monopolist” is, how he is able, by putting this stock up or the other stock down, or by | cornering wheat. or iron, or lard. to take out of ‘iness community just what his “squeezing” power is limited simply by his own sense of justice or mercy, they would never have gone on bet- stranger after they had thought, that he stood in the reiation of agent to one of the pockets of the b sums he pleases; the other hand, t be on remarkal eysied to the circulati chances of ai take, and he won b; and then returns the end to its place. Thus t! lid of the box on which the committee expended their exertions remains undisturbed, “Spiritual tricks,” the Professor said, “ taking well this season. They are worked by means of mechanical padiocks, and require very The reporter was shown some of these pad- They seemed to be but in some a toueh par ticnlar rivet throws them open. and others have clockwork in such a mauner Uhat they open of in a fixed time, Bound by just like ordinary such padiocks, it ix an easy thing for any one to show spirit hands or faces throngh the hole of a cabinet as soon as its doors are closed, and be found sitting inthe same position as securely bound when the doors are opened. made his appearance in England whose career there has created an unparailelled amount of ex- citement and curiosity. The newspapers have ents from week to week, and icles have been written jim, and philosophical articles ex- & popular nickname has been dismal prophesies have been rd to his future, and ing Crowds have him when he nt out to take attention and up distinguish or a noterious criminal. d while in Bi at mad portant a place vet very large sums, in vily. and that he app Anybody w can easily be a his money, are the f a regular busine i allan their favor just as the of the bank at’ Monaco, or They live and their profits are economi- governed by the same causes the profits of any other 8 dollars” on Ameri- might be, he was intheend togo home bankrupt, and | the book-makers accordingly made him wel- which Captain Rook makes young friend Mr. Pigeon. But instead of losing, he continued to win and. asthe turfis the great national | sport in England, to become an eminent person, | their feeling about him began to change, and the iries were instituted asto his revenue and the probable le could be found much about on, thinking that he or his utually come to the end of Meanwhile the mystery of the success led, as any such success al- ways dees, to the belief a the im public who were parting with their spare cash to the book-makers, from whom he was winning e must have some secret or system by means of which he was ev rules and make sure of success in advance. fact that he was observed to imate terms with the jock- pn of an unpleasant rumor that he wasnot viving the book-makersa “square however, being aware that envy and ways follow in the path of success, paid no attention to this Idle gossip, but con- to bet assiduously, and to win contin- led to defy ordinary He has now returned home and has given to® reporter an account of his operations on the other side, which shows how curiously simple they really were. He is, it seems, no agent of a monopolist, but, as he ‘says, a plain business man; in fact, a e his “outside operations of this kind heralded about any more than any other man.” He makes a public statement of them now, he says. simply because they have been much talked about, and “they may as well be put straight.” He did then, as a matter of fact, with £953.000 of British gold, or nearly half a million in our money—an addition, by the way, to the wealth of this country as well as his fortune, of which no true American can. complain, as it calls for no export of bonds, or ifactures or grainin return. The explana- tion he gives of his success is that he beat the English book-makers at their own game simply by making a better guess as to which was going to be the winning horse than they did. The y one horse winning in the same season three of the great English races are so remote that it would hay fectly safe to predict that a “plunger” who uid take such a risk would absolutely ruined. But this was just the chance he did Wy it £75,000 of his £93,000. As to bribing the jockeys, he says that he only promises alarge sum toa jockey to win, if he has a large amount on the horse he is to ride. According to turf ethics able, while giving money toa jockey to lose @ race is of course a fraudulent proceeding. This prietor,” who does been considered per- believe this is allow- the drapery wack. This dress was a mi. ture of ideas, none of which were carried out. It showy, and might have been beautiful had it been content to be one thing or another. Seeing the water lilies, people again aid “how esthetic,” but there was nothing esthetic about it except the water ill and they were out of place. It was a conventional design, which should have excluded the richly beaded and embroidered tablier, and used silk and beaded lace as a trimming instead, as more suitable for a short dress. The gorgeous front and trails of flowers would have been very well for a rich, trained and elaborated ball dress, but were more than a short dress of satin merveil- which is not an expensive fabric, though 'y soft and pretty, demanded. A dress, which was very rich, and, at the same distinguished by good taste, was a combi- nation of amber satin and amber and gold bro-4 cade in a smzil fower—what is known as ‘*peri- winkle”—pattern. The brocade formed the plaited train, the jacket boddice and the bands which divided the zathered front into scant puf- fings, The bands were further enriched with an embroidery of amber beads, which were so worked in with gold thread about the flowerets that composed the pattern of the brocade that they became a part of it. The sleeves were ar- ranged with two puffs of satin, one at the top, the other over the elbo divided by wide e broidered bands of the brocade and terminating ina coy cuff, turned up with old point lace. 4 shell jabot ot the same lace finished the neck. These combinations of satin and brocade with beaded trimmings are more popularly worn than any other. Moire sometimes takes the place of brocade and sometimes it is used for the train only—the bodice being of velvet or gold cloth, and beaded passementerie being used for bands or other isthe | Black toilets are very distinguished when the combi- nations are enriched by fine jet trimmings, and “al luce for the interior as well asthe ex- erior finish, and it may be said with truth that the best and most useful reception and evening dresses for ladies who are no longer in their | first youth, are black, white or colored com- | binations of two or more rich fabrics. with no more contrasting color than the beautiful effects in the bested “trimmnligs offer. One of the effective in color of the season isdark green and red. Put crimson berries against holly and see the effect. ‘This will sugzest of what the taste- fal union in fabric or decoration is capable. But broad sptashes of red upon dark green are not beautiful.while ruby intermixed with the bronze and bright and dark sttades of the passementerie upon a handsome dark green toilet is charming. A winter waiking dress, displayed at_a recent art opening, was good--without being in the least conspicuous, and illustrated the red and cloth, trimmed with frogs, and opening a few inches infront over a dark green velvet ski Gnished with a rarrow mented with a robin, red breast was in high contrast to the grey and green of the | “Indian "asort of bronze shade; ts the “art” green, aud is used for indoor dresses and woraing costumes by ladies of esthetic 8 American woman who shops and calls and drops inte afternoon teas and attends matinees and day receptions is not professional and de- tests woolen dresses. THE CLOAK PROBLEM. The multiplication of designs and materials for cloaks has added another to the many prob- lems which afflict women in connection with the dress question. cloaks there are no end. There are cloaks, too, that gre moderate in price,as well as cloaks that are expensive, but fashion now demands the appropriate garment for every occasion, and this discredits the one that was formerly deemed suitable for many occasions; besides which it is not easy to find the lady-like cut in inexpensive materials since the range has become so large and wide and the standard of prices risen to a higher level. If money is no object, the most fastidious taste can find satisfaction in embroidered plush, superb brocade plush lined,or a Shetland seal with beaver collar and eufis, but in addition to this a secondary cloak Ot cloaks and materials for will be needed, not common and not so expe sive, an ulster for travelling, a water proof for rain, a dolinan or mantle for between seasons, one or more shawls, and a couple of mantles of silk and lace outside garments for summer wear in additian to a summer ulster of silk or linen. The list of outside requirements sounds absurd to men yet, it is really very moderate for a woman who is obliged to meet the demands of society, and it does not include the necessary opera cloak or fur-lined wrap (sleeveless so that it can be easily thrown on or off) which is esse tial for a lady who goes to parties and recep- tions, to ballsand entertainments, in lace sleeves ornosleeyesat all,exchanzing thesummeratmos- phere of her home for frosty air and piereing wind and snow. But querists will naturally remark that all this is only necessary for the wealthy woman, the woman of society’ or | posit#on—it Is not necessary or suitable for the middie class woman, and therefore presents no prone is her“for solution. This is, how- ever, a m ie. this country we have no middle class womehi, ‘and we have few, very few, considerable amount only ones are the single - ‘The wives of men who f wealth are often the pied ergs money, wealth, of it in their own Ht, the majonts te put the disposition‘? it practically out of own hands. Of course, this condition is, grada- ally improving; but especially in conservative ‘at she must for safe-keep- transferred fygin the control of her father to that of some otizer, man, and naturally the pringsabout its results—if a itted to use its limbs, if and tied down circles it ff still nt ta & woman is inca) and white ar tions, and th the colors for Christmas decora- efore peculiarly appropriate at this season, which perhaps my reade mit me to wish may be most happy to every ———— {For Tue Star. Bells of Christmas, Bells of Christmas soon will chime, And their tuneful notes will Ny From the steeples white with rime To the clear star-frosted sky. Soon the organ pipes will blow Strains triumphant, loud and long, And the happy choir arow Fill the whispering church with song. Soon the pungent scent of pine WIN perfume the chilly hall, Holly sprays and cedar twine Precious pictures on the wall. Soon the Christmas fires will fare With a consciousness of light, And home windows everywhere Flood with golden mist the night. Christmas bells, prepare to ring, Let us have a joyful time, From your lofty rafters swing ‘Till the angels hear you chime. Cricket on the poor man's hearth, Get ye ready with a twill ‘That shall sing of Joy on earth ‘Till his heart with laughter fill Eilfins dancing at my side, Now a secret word with ye: On that happy Eve abide ‘With the children in their glee, And when midnight hour shall fare Out each lamp of heaven blow, And in sfience fill the air With a tinkling shower of snow. JOHN HENRY BONER. me SE ES Licurina Sars sy Evgcraicrry.—The report of Commodore Walker, chiet of the bureau of navigation, Navy department, gives ap account of practical and selentific work aecom} by his bureau during the ar, snd soys: “The question of lj merns of electricity di some European ships 4n use for some time, also on some of our’ rould of the large field. lished lemands sttention. Lr ae naval ‘vessels = screen and a puppet body is attached which gesticulates as he talks or sings. here area great many rezular magicians traveling about, and, while business is not what it used to be, many of them make a great deal of money. "The Troy Opera House is owned by 2 magician who says he made all his money out of nine tricks. A magician of con- siderable celebrity out west, Prof. M. Williams, isadeaf mute. One would think it would be the last business in the world fora man to un. dertake who cannot talk or hear, but he has a man to talk for him while he does the tricks. ‘The last J beard of him he wasat Leadville. The tricks snown now are mostly mechanical, as the Hner sleight of hand tricks which demand the greatest skill are not showy. The prices of tricks are low in comparison with what they have been. The time has been when as much as $500 would be charged to teach aman the Indian box trick, and now the price of it is only $5. Mechanical tricks are generally variations of a few pieces of mechanism.” The professor showed a small wooden box, of asize convenient to hold a Tad — Siriclrd appearances it was an ordinary box, ing with alock. One way in which it is often used is for the magician to borrow a watch, have one person put the watch in the box, and lock it, taking the key. Themagician hands it to another person i hold. “Do oes = = watch tick- ing?” the magician will ask, the person holding the box will hear it distinctly by put- ting his ear to the lid. Finally the watch ap- around a pigeon’s neck, or hanging to a chair back, after a pistol has been fi of many ways, acco ician. One sells The Indian box trick, which is with magicians, is sim; Tough bar is dad eeleg ‘ iny gz S528 throughout, that the “plunger” says he never does. He gives a most amusing and at the same time pathetic account of John Astley, a well-know who, after imploring the “ to make bets with him, which, persumably, turned out to the baronct’s disadvantage, sud- ly pon his benefactor and asked him in very profane language why he did not stay in his “bloody country.” To this the “plunger” replied with the dignity and forbear- ance that seem to have marked his behavior e supposed that England was a “free country” and that “when the num- bers go up it’s public property.” To this Sir John broke out more offensively still, again suggesting a return to the United States, upon which the “plunger” turned his back upon the baronet, and has *‘never spoken to him since,” and “would not any more than to a dog.” It will be seen that the of the legend, There prose liant writing about the “plunger” which has been produced during the summer, we find that Mr. Walton is commonty known here as “The” Walton, and is obviously simply ingratitude of Sir sporting baronet, junger” not in vain eality falls far short inful descent from fer reading the bril- -maker book. himself, who has had the advantage of an ex- ary run of luck. He has established himself, however, in the type—the origin, means of livelihood and con- nections are all involved in profound mystery; whose resources and nerve are unlimited; @ gambler by nature and habit; who wins or loses with an unraffled countenance, end always wins more than he“loses—a sporting ing that Phileas |, the American,” which is admirably adapted to the stage, , but who in the see on the