Chicago Daily Tribune Newspaper, March 7, 1874, Page 4

E B a—as T CITY MODISTES. | Gossip About Toilet Artistsin New York. Tho Extravagant Prices Charged by Fashionablo *‘Madames.* How They Treat Their Customers, and How Their Customers Treat Them. - Why Man-Milliners Are Topular---A Now , Hampshiro Genins in Dress. Tho Carcor of Successful Modlstes-n-Ins cldonts, Ludicrous and Sad. * Correapondence of The Chicago Tribune, NEW Yonk, March 3, 1874, “he city s & solar syatem in itsalf, and tho smodistos’ world slike crosses tho orbit of fash- ion snd of insignificance. It hios its codo, tradi- tions, and cliques. Its limits oxtond from the ghop-girl's garrot to my lady's chambor, and in- cludo the little * trimmor™ who, In her ono ailk gown, dances audaoiously at the TFronch mosked ‘all, to tho rupreme rospoctability of privato cs- tablishmonts, which chooso thoir customors ns aunctof grace, on production of character snd ‘podigree, and plumo themsolves on being much loss casy of accoss thano fasbionablo ohurch, not to mention tho Kingdom of Henven. Noither millinor nor dressmaor, loute seule, is rognrded by the sbove titlo. Fashionablo mil- linora deolaro THERE 18 NO NONEY TO BE MADE in their buginoss unless they sell drosses also, and the word modiata comes convenient to do- noto oither tho importer of bounots or of cos. tumes and elogant lingerio, or one who deals in both. It strikes tho spectatorat onco that, if o money ismade ou bonnels, drosses must h.° charged something over prico. But it is only tho leading modistes who complain that thoy make no money; snd & look at their priccs will induco tho thought that perhaps their idoss of making monoy aromoro onlarged that most persons'. Tho slm- plest bonnt on thoir stands solls for nof Tess than 220, without plume or flowor; and tho prico of ordinary bouncts—vary ordinery indeed to the fashionablo gossip who desires to 800 plume, laco, daggor, and rose-wronth at once on her boloved chigpoan—is $60. *You cannot got a bonnet of any sort for less than $50," snye tlio correnpond- cnt of modes; and gho ovidontly rolls the ex- travagant quotation a8 o rich morsel under hor tongue. Those who cover thoir hoads at leas thon that price are not supposod to wear bon- nots, in her ologant viow, Sho can afford to be critical, Hor bonnots cost *“ Thavk you" to the modisto whose wares sho puffa, If any ono is curious to kuow what sort of pricos REALLY ARE PAID by these most oxtrevagant ladies, he is roferrod to a bill for a lace dinner-cap at $45: toa violob wrenth-trimming for ball-dross at $16 8 yard ; 8 Park hat of dark straw ot $76, trimmed with vel- vat and long tropic fonthor of & rare sort, that cost the importor 925, and for which she unbesi- tatingly chinrges 250,—to got her money ‘back, she says; o Spanish mantilia of whito point ab €850, with rod roses at 34 apicco; and an opora- bonnot in the dnys when white bonnots wera sworn, tho little bill for which, rose-buds, mara- bout, peart and orystal drops, and drapery of Point d'Alencon, was $165. Think of these pricos frocly paid by womon to gratify their tasto for elegant trifleal For tho last five years, millions have com- plnined that-there wns no monoy to be made in thoir donlings. Wo have all heard of mon who declined to consider any investment which wonld not yield thom nt lenst 300 per cent. But por- haps Alencon and Chantilly are dear, nnd im- ort-dutles high, and tho oxpense of five-story Enuaes in firat-race poaitions 18 great ; and it is {mposaible for a first-claso milliner to make ag much as Adolina Patti ovory scnson. If Madamo the Modiate has tho ambition to make a fortune, sho certainly is following excellont examplor, snd nobody will quarrel with wer for making three profits, save thoso exomplary peraons who wouldn't be caught doing tho gamo thing them- wolves, What ato callod LIVING PRICES answer to the following ecnle: Tinchon, for yoars a leading contumer, as_tho tashionable world of New Yorl well knows, used to chargo 2600 for a buff gaze-do-Chambery ball- Qress, whoso ruflles, bound with satin, covered the train, and whose only decoratic: boaides was & berthn of amber-glass boads, without an inch of laco; tho wholo material for which, with the making, cost not sbove 125, Tho cheapost thiug in her rooms, a girl's walking-dress of mobiir, with yard or tio of bluo ailk in the trimming, sold “for 250, and fac-simiios at othor plncos wero $18. It is with no sort of oniiicism these figures are recorded, Thoy may bo more than matchod from the books of any first-class modiste, and, for the matter of thnt, they are completely ontdono by the extravagant rates of the socond-class houges, If blame rests any- whero in the mattor, it is more with ladies who E)mfor to buy evening-dresses, with tho air and ouch of an artist upon them, for €900, to the trouble of buying tho silk for $150, tho Ince for B300, and having it made up undor their owa oye for $50 by an oxport Amorican, Most ladios of wealth prefor to order their drosses dircot from sbrond, to paying the high profits charged for them hera; and the carcless remark, “I have my dresses all from Paris,” significs not 8o much free expendituros ns BHREWD ECONOMY. Those modistes whono word holds weight among exclusives in faghion earry on their busi- ness with much privacy, They profor highly-re- apectablo quarters, o fow doors off Broadway or the Lest avonues, ‘I'lio tall, gonteol houso, with its bowed ehnttors hung with wistaria, and ordi- nary door-plate, does no discredit to the resi- dencen around it A carriego or two is usuall In_waiting at the eurb from early morning tifl ealling boursat 8 p.m, Ataring of the holl the visitor is ushered into tho parlors, filted like ordinary recoption-rooms, witl bright carpots, and light, handsome sofas, with tho nddition of tall armoiros in the middio room and extension, and a long tablo or two, filled with honnots and lingorle. The mistress is ecldom Boon, unless by special request, her subordinate, with attractive air and manners, bolng skillied onough in shotv- g off tho latest mnoveltios, and vory likely knowing moro about them than the l’Kmv.lnmn horeelf. Tho hionsoe was the abodoe of the elito In its day, and looks quite reconciled toits chango of circumstances, with the sun stroam- Ing in tho back windows, over tho gay carpot and low couches, and the flowor-bed ‘of bonnets. Ono may have & glimpeo of a stout woman in white-linen jacket and sweeping nilk skirt, with hier hair dono up very plainly, stoaling through tho back entry, without a suspicion that she is TILE CREATING OENIUS® of the airy, srtistio robes which tho attendaut is E’Mio\mly showing. If tho propristor is gouu- oly French, thoro 1n always traco of colory: flavor, or the smoll of wine, in the buck parlor,— faint ndeod, but_authontio; on deteoting whioh san may surrondor {nmmr at once with confl- lonce to tho hauda of tho artist, suro that fm\r dress witl be &ll osprit, taste, and perfection, with charges corrpsponding, but that's nomatier, Ten to ono, the madame is plain ag doath; but her glance is acute aud comprehending; hor manner, if eho discerns s good eustomer, 50 suaye, 80 charming, that one \finlmu Lior patrons might tako lossons of her. To her richoat cus- totuars she it vory likely indopandenco itsalf,— Lnowing by instigot how little flattory will sorve Ler thero, and very Ennmhly foeliug that entire solf-pousosaton whick is drawn in with Americun alr, “But the most upstart, purse-proud mill- Inor will iomatimes take n fronlc of kindnoss and play tho amiablo for en hour to & young lady with limited purso but gentlo mannery, in s way that Thackeray would smilo to sco, French women of whabsvar grado leop their gracious TITLE OF MADASE ont of hubit and iy n brovoet of tasto; but the few Ameriean modistes who lead in style and castom koop strictly to their plam originuls, o8 Miss Pago, My Gednoy, Miok Bwitzor, M, Flint; snd this bit of good senka serven to distinguish thoso avtists from the Injudiclous womon who fanoy it raisos their valuo "to write Madamo Bill- {ugs'or Madume Pipingoord ou their cards and signg, Of two drossmnkera it in always snfo to chioose the one who writos horself plain Miss or bra,, rathor than one who desocnds to thiy stupld littlo ploco of affaatation. “Wo une it to mark our rank as artlats,” was tho nmusing apology mndo by ono for calling herself Madamo, THE PSTREEM OF TIH PASIIONANLE WORLD, five yonts nyro, was protty woll divided botwoon Mudnme Virfolet, of Eighth stract, and Madamo Diodon, whoso shicld wns familiar on a largo, vino-hung house on Union Bquaro, It is wall kuown that thoro nover was anything this sido the world to surpass Diedon’s tasto in tho deap- ing of laco or of Cashmoro shawla; snd tha fin- isli and tngto of Virfolot's dresses woro some- timos compared by her ndmirors with Worth's, not to tho advantago of tho Inttor,—thatis, to such spocimons of Wortl's taste a8 ha chooses to sond to Amorica. In tho vestibules of ostab- lishmonts bolonging to theso Indios were brushed tho perfume _from skirts of high and mlght(y‘ poo{yleiudoud, such ladles ag the Aldamas, Wit thelr fabulous Cuban woalth ; Mrs, Isclin, tho Groek bavkor's wifo; Mrs. Fish, ond Mra, Roose- volt, and Mra, Souator Sprague, bad thelr morn- ing-gowns, and ball-drosses for thoir young la- dien, mndo at ono place or the other; and rich Sonatora' wives hnd thelr most splondid rocop- tlon-droascs thoro, and imposed thom on tholr r’nt attachos as Fronch tolleta, Bo they woro,— nion-8quare Frounoh. But Dieden Lias mado money and given up business and hor lendership to another, and Virfolot hs marrlod, sud_hor handsome slator, ‘Mademoisollo Jasunfxlnu, with the noble figure and walk, who susurinlundml tho sliow-rooms, is dond,—diod suddenly one day of apoplexy. Madame Forrero's good taste and Ronso gave her o high placo in her department of modos long ngo, and it will bo hora as long aa eho chooses 1o keep it, Tho old families of Now Yorl like lor, and tho quiot oarringes with handsomo horses that pause before her door bring the vory beat sort of custom, which uses gold in shoppiug out of lbit, and docs not always have ‘bills sent round to its husband's office. For, lothlyrecorded as it is, Fashion doos not always poy for ity finery with that promptnoss which could ba dosirod. As s mattor of course, the ao- counts of rosponsible customers are nllowed fromsix to nino monthe crodit at firat-class houses, where everything goos in & smooth groove of respoctability, and the modiste is dis- posed to be all that Is nccommodating. Theore aro two or threo MAN-NILLINERS, or Indics’ tailors, in town; who haye fair romh larity, ‘They finish oloth suits and clonks in the best porsiblo way ; but their ideas of trimming nro not always approved. Like most mon, the dolight in seelng womon splendidly drossed, with rather more color and contrast than ladiea ad- miro, who profor s certain resorved style. As to fitting, mon have the best idons of form, and most unfafling scenracy. The man-modiste tnkes the measuro of Lis subject and dismisses hor Tho noxt day or week, the bodice 18 half finishod, the outsido stitching done, the buttons put on, tho skirt hung on & bolt,—and s rehear- sal takes place, Sometimes an experionced fora- woman mukos the allorations needed, under tho ove of tho artist ; somoatimes tho pinning and shaping aro done by the foreignor's own doft fingors, Landies whom no one can accuso of in- dellency go 6 have their dressos cut by n Fronch- man wita as little concorn as thoy consult a doctor for their health, or havo boots fitted by a shoomaker, It is not uncommon to find men who are born artiste in dress, A, T. Stowart & Co. oxport bonnets to England that aro made and trimmed by o young, six-foot gontloman, who confesses that ho was fond of thimble and noedlo since Lio can romomber, and that ho used to keop thom hidden at school, and spend his half-holidnys workiug for a family of dolls thiat lodged nder a rock in a hay-field. In ono of Lor lecturos, Mis, Livormore tells of X OENIUS IN DRESS sho discovered nt_ Lobanon, among tho New Ilampsbive hille. Ho was the Chairman of tho Lecture Committeo, and Mrs. Livormore, stoy- ing at his house, will_lier habit of looking into things, found her way into the work-room of his millinery-establichment. Thero wore dozens of bounots Bo tastorully trimmed that bhor oyes, educated by the cthics of Boston, at once recog- nized the touch of an artist. 'flmm, too, wera drosses in evory stago of aamFlntan, delight- fully planued, Asking who trimmed tho bon- nets, tho worl-gitls told her, tho master of tho ghop. Who designed tho drosses? The same man, who selocted every yard of trimming, and attendod to the finishing of every dress that was sent out. His famo was wido in the hill-coun- try, and the Dartmonth College ladics thought tiiey couldn’t wonr '[). Dounet unless it came through his bonds, filo was autoeratie, not al- Towing his customors to dross alike, whothorlong or shott, stout or slim, but devised frosh atyles for ench, Going into tho parior.at his honse, tho Jecturess stooped to {:iok up an exquisito toa- rogo tossed on a_marblo slab on the table, and found it modoled in wax,—the recreation of tho milliner artist, Ho sketched in crayon, and painted in water-colors, His houso was full of delightrul trifles,—tho work of & man who bad earnod his own living sineo’ o was 8 years old. o GIICAGO, FOR A LONG TINT, Dad an Enghshman s business who gave lndios’ drossos & it and fnieh unsurpassed by nn women= dressmnkera from Van Buren streot fothe Boule- vards, Thoso who hinve onco tried it prefor the work of meu-drossmekers; and why? Because “mlv are more thorough than women, and moro polite. Donling with firat-clnss honres is subject to its limitations. One canuot go with a roll of sillk and have it made up for an occasion two waals off. A modiste of tha more exclusive #ort wonld foel that sho was losing casto to make up any material but that sho furnishes,—making donblo protits off the goods and tho work. Itisun- necessary to gay that the price of silk, laco, and trimming in bet hands is much highor than mer- chanta charge for them. To malke up for this, one js suro of gotting tho froshost sud best styles and choicest gnods, {8 o fnel that dresses brought on by the largo merchant-houses aro, without excoption, AT LEAST ONE AEAGON BETIND tho styles in Paris, Auy one who knows the fashions as they are worn abroad kuows that American importations, while extravagant in price, are socondary in every point of malerinl nnd getting up. Comparison of the styles offer- cd by leading mercantile houses horo with Paris fashions jonrnals of authority will establish thig. For example, the bed-ticking stripes and dark-blug linens havo boen worn sbroad for two sensons, but are now abandoued for fresh novel- ties; nud American traders aro impur(lngi the largo romnindor of foroign stocks of those goods, made to suit popular domand, but nelther 80 durable or well fluishad as when firat mads to supply tho caprico of the rich aud oxacting. Private modistes keep in bowing distance of styles abroad while at thoir best. "Then, too, ns dress is a nacessary of life, and fushionablo life demands mauy desssos, and oy women of stylo retaln their dresamuker as they do lawyer and dootor, by the yoar, & mo- dieto of sbility has full cluims on her time, so that 5 now cliont must wait hor chance to bo served, Regular customors, KELP THEIR ORDERY ANEAD,— a blue-linen for noxt Juno, two or threo gauzos for the hops in July, somo fresh suits for Au- gust, and a hoavy silk or two for Boptombor, when they will come home from tho watering~ Plnccu raher out of ropair. A forowoman of a eading house declares that ladics have loft dresses in her hands for #ix months, und timo bnd not been found to put seissors into them, But, when Madame A—, tho wealthy croolo, chooses rose-clored Sicilienno at 84 a yard for a broakfast-wrapper, and silk at §7 for her din- ner-dress, theso materials, boing handsome, do not lose style by keoping, and sha probably hog more_of tho sme sort thun get an aiving ull ronnd oncoe in & goason. 8o the Indics and their modisto mutually oblige ; thoy wait for thoeir or- dors, and &ho waits for hor cash, Not nlways ia the modisto’s Pntlnnco rowardod na it should be, A cnse in point was whiopored about somo timo since, but hardly camo to the knovwledgo of soclety, A Maduma of dark com- ploxion, claiming high connections among the Spanishi-Amoricans in tho Caribbean Provinces, waa recoived inlo the best socioty of Now Yotk on tho strength of hor claims and tho remarka- ble beauty of her daughter, Tho latter WON A SUSOEPTIBLE ITALIAN PRINCELING on his Amorican travels to offer hor his most noblo and useloss hand, Thoro was & stormn ut court whon the news was carried to Nuplos, and dignitaries of tho Chutoh were sont to stap tho marriage. But the wily old half-Indian woman ‘was too muoh for tho priests, and, when the Cathollo clergy in Now York wore forbidden to marry the couplo, she whipped her daughter oft to Now Jersoy by midnight, and had the coro- mony thore, ‘This has nothing farthor to do with droseos thun that, on ucconntof the Prince and protty daughter, Now York Iudies adopted the wio, made wmuch of them, and introdnced tho Indios to their dreas- makers, with whom {hoy easily obtained erodit. To ploaso ono of hor highost patrons, who brought Madame to Llor, n modiste con- sontod to make up a sitk which Madame hud kopt by hor tor yours, It was fnjured by keep- Ing ; but it was made, worn, and tho Lill sont in, Thon Mudamo rofused to pay, charged the modisto with tuining hor sllk, threatoned to sne hov for ity valuo, and fairly ontstorined tho Tronchwoman, wha offerod tho bill—#ome buu- drads of dollars—to uny ona who could colloat it, Sha could not, for the adventurers hud made so many friends in Princo-worshiping socioty that to procoed to extromo measuron with thom would offend her best customers, snd sho could not sfford to do that. Btrong in thls sort of wocin! stratogy, Madame flonrisied in New York, aud hor career i written in the regrota of Fifth-ay- suue boarding-house-keepers, Royal rolntiven disownod tho Princo, and his aastuto mamma-in-law had to furnish the pair A LIVING BY HER WITH, A chnrnctoristio porformanco of hors once, whan roguested to loavo rooms for whioch she owed nino months' board, was to have tho aris- tocratio landindy of o Tifili-avenuo houso nr- restad by n police-officor a8 sho was goiug down staira in full toflot to proside at & diuner-party, on tho ohiargo of disturbing tho publio poace, bocause her child hnd o orying-fit in the nursory. The irroproachablo houtess was only too glad io dismisa tho soandal by Tetting tho Princolv fiueulu dopart In ponco without a hint of o bill, (his gossip I8 auchontle, Maro honest, but_rather unforiunate in hor Invish tastos, {8 a Indy Jm!wfl‘ but atill boautltul, whoso charms, assistod by ravishing toilots, aro colobrated in tho socloty of artlsta, Bho hos ologant taatos and facility for cradit ; tho conge- quenco of which is, that onco in nwhile tho sooloty-papora report hor as mnking a tour in Europe, Tho truth is, sho gots 8o deoply in dobt to hor drossmakor that sho hns to” lot hor handsomo house, furnisbod, and spend a season IN ECONOMY in somo obacuro villaga on the Fronch const. It 18 tho Rusalnn Princoss rotrontlng to a con- vont to aaye a yonar's incomo for the purchaso of a diamond necklaco. The lady who borrowsd Tor husbaud's coupons without nis knewledgo, to sny hor bills for dross, may soo this articlo, and will know to whoso forboaranco sho owes that this Isrnolitish borrowing was not oxposed nt the time, Madamo I——malos out this lndy's acoounts with cheerful scourity that her most audacious ciarges will not be soverely mquired into, with o whalosome momory of that transace tlon. You will nak how theso things como to bo known. It {s part of my oxperionco that thore is no such thing a8 o socrat in tho economy of Naturo. 80 long as thore sra crovices in our houses, and wo are not walled up to living death, our socrota will out, and tho finest of thom ulir out firat through oranny and keyhola, Tine Indies aro not above boing curious about thelr drossmalers sometimes, aud the goesip of 445 o'clook-ton™ somatimes owes its spice to tha rolation of - favorits modiste’s troublos. Why should not the objoot of thoirintorest return tha complimant ? THE CAREER OF BUCCESSFUL MODISTES 18 vory ensily traced. One or two of the heat in Now York are womon of good family, who, flud- ing their resources reduced, investad the rest in ‘businoss, and, solling the lacos and silks thoy used to wear, find rich roturus. In other cases, n clever forowoman succoeds, not only to the businoss, but tho station of hor prodecessor. In two of tho largest dressmnking ostablishmenty in Drondway, when tho mistress whose zoal and tasto had bullt up tho concorn toolk loave to dio, the husband married the forewomnn, leaviug tho ntylo of the firm unchanged. Ono or two houses havo what may bes called ltorary side-connec- tions ; for at least two vory well known fashion- correspondents and journalists have futimato ro- Intions with special establishments, Thero is o Xinahip botwoon journalism and fashion, Now- adays, in a family of gitls, thero must be ono artist, musical or otherwise, ane who writes for the Towspaners, and_the third, if thero is ono, ontora & modiste's business, or stays at homoand does drossmating in private for tho rest. Thore wns, & fow yoars 2go, o shop in tho contral part of Brondway whore children’s outfits of groat neatness and tasto wore found. It was kept by an Englisa family, who lived in the samo houso with flm shop, in honeat, Old-World fashion. Tho mother was n_kind, sagacious woman, of wide ronding, and charmingly ablo to talk of what she road, Soveral dolightful dnughtors, aud & nophow who wns o popular cssayist, drow about thom artints and nowspaper men, who found the unpretending homo 8o much to their tasto that dafly meetings grew o bhabit. Tho shop-shuttors closod, aftor dinuer that plain sit- ting-room BAW AS A00D C 08 one would find_in New Y Tho fan, the good singing, were unimpeachiable; for Nnst oud lis fellow-artists got \IK the caricatures and chnrades, whilo Parton cracked his dry jokes, or camo in disguino, whose charactor he'kopt up in faco of the whole eamlmuy without suspicion. 80 thorouphly did thoartista nppreciate tho prac- tical and kindly training of this homo that one or two, I believe, carred off wives from thoro. I nm suro any man worth choosing would profor a bright, sensible girl Lronght up to business, beforo ono of the unsexed ariists and wrting- women who infest onr cities. Ono of_{hio madistes who has been a atandard of Now York fashion for years came ovor ng Jady's maid in a rich family, married the Italian valot, and ot up in avico little shopin tho Bowery. Soon hor rooms changed to_the best nolghborhoods in the city ; sho gathiored proper- t]y. and bronght her family up well, sending hor daughters to school in Parls, from which they eamo back to & hnodsomo homo, Madamo hag WON THE RESPECT OP ALL who know lLier, not leas for har uualfectod good sense than for hor tasto and talont. She is to be soen at public bl acorsionally, dreased in bot- tor stylo thau half tho womon about hor,—carry= ing hersolf with the sama bo:thommie and inde- pondonco she weers in hor show-rooms ; and evory one applauds bor good fortunoe in a country whero the aaloswoman is valued a8 highly a8 hor oustomors. One or two other leading modistes were Franch Iady's moids, who como ovor with thoir mis- trosses and sot up business with their savings. Boing usad to the tastos of high-bred Indies, their quick taste knew how to attract tho bost cuatom. I forget what valot and lady’s maid it was who carried on & robbery of their employers fn small sums, uusnspocted, till they made enough to start a flourishing millinery business on thair ill-gotten gaing, Tho history of mil~ linory 1 not alwaya that of morality. A cortain Broadway Madnme, whose rooms are aure to bo fillod with bonutiful and showy dresses at tho most audacious price, was, befora the Fronch avatar, an Irish milliner in Division straot. Her atylea now ara MER EXTREME OF FABHION,— the longest trnins, the most decollote waists, and pronounced tournures,—got up, one must any in “justico, with n grent doal of handsomo taste. Thus her houso enjovs the patronsge of dnshing notresses,and woll-to-do membera of the demi-moude, who find in oxtravagent dress tho golnco of thoir unhappy lives, Roport is, that tho manners of Division stroet aro slill native to Mndame with the big chatelaino and long train, who wiil swoar like a pirate in the bower of orush-rosen, birds of Paradise, and straw lace sho calle hor show-room. If an order has not Doon filled to suit hor, the raving and damning that goes on in hor work-room aro only oxcollod by the contents of the prison-van at the Tombs. Anothor Brondway modiste, said to bo the protoge of an up-town merchint, nover appeared nve dressed in the hoight of fashion, with long silk train rich with Inco, and diamond ear-rings. She was & woman of tall, good figure, whoso gorpent-like brow, under hmwy, dark, crimped hir, dark-blue eves, and cold, unvarying man- nors, would have boen the modol for komne Lamia, mistroas of a Parision romancar, Col. Fisk and hin reigning favorite nsually figurodat hor open- inge, much to tho seandal, and certainly to the intorest, of respectablo Indics, who managed to value overy inch of fringe on Montaland's bluck toileta. IPANT A SAD STORY, - told oneo by o dreaamnker while she fitted my gown, concornod the wearor of o high and hon- orable namo, whoso fannly-mansion stood on the corner of o place from which tha old rosldents aro drifting, and tho grnooful seduisante show- woman of a modiste whoso louso waa on the pide-ntroot half-way down the long block. Tho honso wa# considored of the highest fashion, and tho firat [adiss of the city left thoir carriagos in front of it by the hour.” Very possibly tho General's wife patronized Madnme X- , and her dressos were triod on by Madomoisello Eu- genle, whoso sweetness of _ exprossion spoke & heart worthy o botter fate, I for ono, who saw Lor wbilo inspect- ing some splendid now tollots, was won by hor tender face and goutle boarlng; and it was bard to bollovo what the sewing-girls and the staid forewoman knew porfectly well, Hor lover was taken 1l one ovening at tlio house, and hurried _home in o carriago to die, Engenio mournad bim bitterly, aud bor creed knew no consolation but wine.” Sho drank often, and ouo morning wos found doad m her bod, Call Buch & life Pagan if yon will, with justico, Mateh it, Bowavar, with the history of an American woman fired withh tho ambition to GET ON IN THE WORLD, Bho grinds her \\'orkvgil'ln‘ cheats hor partnor in in business, broaks up* hor rivals, and is tho denth of n dozon reputntions, while shio accepts aid from all sorts of mon, is vonomous au vico,— in short, an epitomo of thin-blooded solfishneys ond falsity in an India Cashmore and brillinnts, You can namo a dozen such this minute, I pro- tost thoso womon scem to mo ns truly fallon, a8 truly to bo shrunk from, as poor Tugonie, Do- moralization is as complete by selfishnoss as by any ather vico, and ko 1t is writton in thewr facos, Qo slrinks from their prosence with the sama :i&l::;llng rocoil as from a reeling Cyprian in tho ‘I'his i8 too grave s subject, ‘Thoro are AINOK INMOKALITIEN in the trade, of whiuh most customors will think moroeriously of. ‘The mont common of theso 18 putting the trade-mark of woll-known Froncls housos on howme-made worl, I havo had olorks protosting bi' all tho doitios of trado that d_ruuuuu wora hnportod, when I know overy atitch was pug in thom iu the fourth-story work-rooms above, I was In w Fronoh milliner's ouo dny, when o lady solected an avening-bonnet, & prett #ffalr, whore dolioate rose-buds aud coquottis! xibbon woro the air of the Loulevards, even it tho snowy ostrich-tufts hind not beon jolnod with rure plumago unobtalnablo in Now °York. “Tho bonnet, lind beon Pmmmnd to nnothor Jady, who was to como for it the next day, and pay 837 for it, but the milliner had spuciel roswons for wishing to nblan tho present customor, and alio hiad not n thought of anytllng but kind- noss when sha offered n compromise, *‘Mlss H— fancies dis bonnot Lecauso it 1s imported. I willlot you have it for #47 and mnko her anothor liko it by to-morrcy, I cannotb geb dosa fedders in do oity, but I will make do reat jus’ lika; on’f it you will Jus' ho so kind s allow mo to take dis leotlo ‘mpur out of de bonnet to put on de odder, it will maka all right wid tho ymmF lady. If you ploase.” And tho gildod Inlel, Dbenring the namie of a craditable millinory-houss in Parls, was unpinned to aflix to Miwn U—'n now bonmol. Lot us hopo sho was satisflod alio woro an undoubted importation, and was proud of paying au oxtra prico for the label Thia trick {8 played over and ovor agaln in mont miliiners' shops in tho city, A dozon or two of Virots' sud Hoguot's bonnets nro imported and sold. Of conrda tho oustomor doos not want to carry homo' the bluo papor Iabol ou hor bounet- string, which is carefully unpiunod to do duty to tho enl of tho scason, on a dozon hats, ono after tho othor. THE LITTLE MILLINENS dosorve & slatel o thomeolves, Those small shops on Third and 8ixth avenues, with only wooder: sercon betwoon tho lace-hung show- room and the work-room whore the mistross makes hor eup of ton wud stows lor ovaters to anvo flre, and ovorything is on tho nicest seala of cconomy—hava sometimen_grand customors, Tha lndies of the groat Van and Dyko families aro ot avorao to_gconomizo, thomsolves, and thoy xip up thoir old bonuots, and trip with thom round the cornor, vory aarly of u morning, to tho 1ittlo shop, wharo the velvet will ba steamad, the faathors curled, the laco clonned, and all put to- gothor with s graca that will lead somo one thoughtlessly to say, **That sccond hat of yours bocomes you o well, I wish Iknow whora to got ong 13 protty;” and tho owner will enulo mystorlously, if sho doos not pay, with maznill- cout nonchalance, * Oh | you know 1 got my hats at Pago's_gonoraily,” Or, thoso grando damen, aristocratio onough not to bo ashamed of tholr cavefulness, will hava their rich dresses cut and fittod at fashionnblo bouso, and sent to & smuil shop to finish, unless they nro mae nt liome by thn family-sonmotress, ‘Who only thing to bo ashamed of in thoso contrivances in tho shamo that loads to menn decaption to hido them. RICK AND THRIFTY ACTIESSES algo bring their splondid ombroiderad sitka to bo made in & closot of & work-room that may bo a more booth bullt on the sidewalk, They kuow that, tho loss rent a dressmaker has to pay, tho cheapor sho can do hor work. Ouo will find Ross Eylinga's or Miss Neilson's whito brocade, flowered with roses in natural colors, or om- broiderod with 's;old thread, lung over the thread~ baro sofe, beaido o servant girl's uumlnly poplin, ut theso small places ; aud thnd clover forosizht saves tho ladies of tho stage thousands of dol- lara, n rule, opera-manngors find dressos for. . thoir leading charactors ; but those usunlly ro- quira 'iflcuty of nltoration and addition to mako agood appoarance, 'Thoy aro tho property of the rtage, and each singor must adapt them to awt horself. Dut Patti was not above wenring the traditionnl pink satin of the company-ward- robo, oven after her return from abroad. Lucen, tho ombodiment of thrift, hns nu excellent maid who makes hor drowses, sud tho donua hoya lively fancy of hor own, which sorvos hor woll in stago-toilots, though she is plain as any night- lu&lllu in her ordinary dross. ‘o roturn to the small shops: The visitor who stops tolook at her dross aftor 8 in the aftornoon, whon oflicess claso, will wonder what ‘business brings the curled and woll-dressed . TOUNG FOLITICIAY OR BROKER to loungo on the bost sido of tho lace-curtnina, Thora may be no purticular harm in his vapor- ing with tho girls, who humor and adoro him ; und it may bo tho only_ way of ‘disobliging his wife that isn't too troublesome ; but the broker with a rod rose in hia button-hole is o fact con- neoted with milliner-shops., I'he downy politi- clan may bo working some of thoso fine wires of ward-information from Tom, Dick, and Harry, the mechanics and truck-drivers whom the girls allow to come and sit with them of au ovemng after thoy have mado thomselves decent. Ho seoms to liko his work, our young man - with tho tall hat and tho sleok, Cuatom-FHouso look. What Lusinoss {8 it of ours? Pass anl K, LIFE ON THE FARM. Why Do Farmors, as a Class, Live so Poorly? Burrazo Grove, Buchanan Co,, Ta,, Fob, 28, 1874, To the Editor of The Chicaro Tribune: Bin: I noticed in Tue Weekry Trinuse of o racont dato s articlo from o correspondent, en- titled * Homes in tho City vs. Iomos in the Country.” Ho asls some questions, and makes somo statomonts, that I am disposed to answor and oxplnin. He nalks, ** Why ia it that formers, s a class of paople, live pooror than auny other peoplo?"— stating that they dony thomuelves many of the commoneat luxuries that are in tho reach of all; and that they roquira thoir help to work from daylight to dark, oftontimes upon short allow- anco, rnd giving no time for bodily rest or mon= tal culture; and closing with tho nssortion thnt, if farmors would make thoir homes agreeable by cheorful surroundings, * lots of poople from tho cities would seck a home in tho country,” Having spent all my life of 45 years on & farm, eithor in Now York or Tows, Iamdisposed to ad- mit that your correspondent’s statetnont of tho caso is mainly correct. So far ag my obsorvation and experionce go, the labor of the farmer in in- cossant. He allows nolthor himself nor bis help much relaxation ; luxurics are not common on |’ Lis table ; and Lis home, in its genoral make-up ‘and snrroundings, is suything but attractive, To :.u this, however, thoro are some happy oxcop- ions. Moreover, I boliove, that, from the first set- tlomont of our country to the present time, tho condition of the mass of Amorican farmers has, in tho maio, beon unchangod. Uf courso, our system of agriculturo has changed; but it has brought with it no coxmepnmung amelioration of the condition of the farmer, Tlo samo un- ending unrelaxing toil ; the ssmo sclf-douial in rolation to tho luxuries and rofreshmonts of cul- tivatud socioly,—sre s nocossary now s a hun- dred yoars ago. Now, why is thisso? Why is it that, while the country has grown rih, and while the condition of every other class in socio- ty haa improved to a very groat extont, there is 10 corrosponding changa in tho coudition of the farmor ? ‘I'ho answer to this question would properly require moro space that I am disposed fo Ral for; o L will briofly suy, it is becauso all indus- trics, trades, arts, aud “profosaions have, by n long systom of carefni nursing, built themsoives up ; and, not only this, they have called for and recoivod of tho farmer asaistance in securing logislativ protection. Railroad companies, morchants, meohnuics, munufacturers, baulers, ond politiciang have asked of the farmor protac- tion and subsidy, 'Tho furmor has heen told by philanthropists and pbilosophers (bat his owu proeperity deponded upon tho careful nursing of every intorest but his own; and 8o, Christian- like, when nsked for his cont, ho has givon his cloak also. ‘Now, whilo evory other clasa finds ensy access to the refinomonts and luxurios of a cultivated, jutollectnal, and sociallifo, the farmer secs theso advantagos drifting farthor and farthar from his ronch, end finds thaf, while all tho world around bim has moved, and he bas helped it to move, hio himsolf has stood still, Why does not the farmer surround himsolf with comforts and lux- uries, and malko his bomo attractivo? Why does honot turn bis sttention to intollectual pur- suits_and tho cultivation of his mind? Wy so wordid and groveling? Beeauso, with fow ex- coptions, hio caunot do or bo othorwise, And out of this maze of difficultios which surrounds the farmar, thero appears but two ways of es- capo: Tirat, by dlsnonosty, which always kaops an opon daor, aud points to s soomingly ploasant and short way,—n path, moroover, well trodden b{ thio honorablo of the land ; sooond, by cxces~ sivo and protracted toil, aud a total abstinonca from nuy comfort or luxury that costs money. And I now stato, as tho re-ult of ot loust thirty years' obsorvation upon this poiut, that I have %nown of but very law casos whore sucooss Lias boen nttained by eithor mothiod, but that it ro- quires o happy combination of both the firat and second mothods in order tomake s person's busi- ness-lifo o fuaucial success, 1t in n fact, ucon fvom this standpoint, that there is no aconpation that culls for so much solf-donial and 80 1nuch toil, and presonts eo fow aliractions, in tho common meanlug of the word, a8 the farmor's, In tho other ocoupa- tlous,—mechanical, meronntilo, or professioual, —whethor finunolul succoss is tho result, or atharwiso, n man's life pusses moro sgraonbly; tho socioty in which ho moves, the almosphoro Yio breathos, and all bis surroundings, uro moro congeniul; litorature, Bcionce, aud tho arts lluminato his puth ; and, 1f not & financial suoe cons, his existeucs liag boen o ploasure, 1t'is hoped that now the farmors uro awaking to & seuse of tholr wrongs) und to o bottor un- dorstauding of tholr rights, tho timo may not bo vory far [ tho future when o farmor's Lowmo may be attractive ovon to ono who {a acous- tomed to the amenitics, refinomouts, and oloe gances of oity life, AQRIOOLA. THE GRANGE. A Denunciation of the Sccret-Society ¢ Dusiness. Is Congressional Regulation of Rail ways & Reform? The Patrons of Husbandry Prac- tical Freo-Traders. Euuning the Sccrot=Socioty Xusinoss into the Grounde-=ls Steuinting Rallways by Congress o Eekorm } To the Editor of The Chicano Tribune: ks Bin: ue Tninune—wlhich had the indepen- doncato review the Grange-platformon its morits, and theraby draw tho flro of the Administration’s epecinl organs, whoso editors woro unablo to ro- straln their oxuborant joy because the National Gravgo didn’t commit itsolt in opposition to thelr dominant party—is doing somo good worl for the favmors in o quict way, by giving THE TRUTI in rogard to thoso socrot moctings, Ro far as it is “ comentablo,” Tho Baturdny number was cs- pecially goad in this direction,—giving, as it did, Mrs, Wynkoop's full explanation of tho ' Advo- catos of Justice,” and tho prococdings at Dr. Earlo's organization of **Boverclgus of In- dustry.” THE PRIMARY MOTIVE for oll this organizing was very well presented s fow days since in n communication by Alr. Whitaker, of Iows, who ovidently known o thing or two sbout the workings of the original Ordor of Patrons. Your roportor at Dr. Enrlo's meeting also gives the giat of it slong towards tho closo of his report, when ho states that &15 of tho first initintion-focs zoos to tho * Grand Council” (is it Mr, aud Mra, Earle ?), and 815 to £20 to Mr. Earlo for persoual sorvices and trav- oling cxpenses, ‘The new Ordors ato ovidently more economical in their ideas than the Grango, pince the initiation fees nre sot at only 2 for mon and $31 for womon. Now, is it not pertinent to inquire,—and do not such inquiries naturally ungzeui thom- solves,— WIO 18 MR, EARLE, and Who conatitutos the * Grand Council,” and Whio hos eleceed Mr. B, as tho ** Grand Muater,” and sont him forth with all this anthority to or- anizo tho * working people ' aud collect dues rom them ? Theso questions, a8 Togards the originators of tho Grango institution, aro still conxiderably mooted ; and it is doubtful if wo shall have any clntmnnt for the honor in tho later casos just at rogent. Now thab this thing {s getting popu- ar, and as it evidently pays, what is to hinder every man who is smbitiotis to win & name, sco tho world, and male money, from launching out in this line of business? 1t requires no capital tostart it, aud is proving s perfect *tub-mill” for finaneial rosulta, A judicious line of appoint- ments,—with duo care, of coarse, to get as far away from hiomo a8 possible,—so that n Couucil or & Tomplo & day can bo averaged, makos o sure thing of Jv.; and oven'15 a day is protty good pry for s working man, My word for i, thers aro enough who ENJOY DEING GULLED, oven among furmors and workingmen, to danco and * pay tho fiddior ” too, even though it takes tho Jast dollar in the house. z Of course, the * Declarntion of Purposcs " must deny anything political or religious ; but it Is ontirely in order to discuss tho pi¥nciples and science of government, und to just intimute, when advocating tho beaucies of co-operation, # What o power wo will wield when we get edu- cated and got grown.” This iden of education is espeeinlly good, and it works charmingly so long a8 the Order is restricted to tho commoners who don't know any more than thoir soif-constituted tonohers, % 1T WON'T ANSWER, thongh, to tale in auybody who knows enough to be 1nischiovous ; and editors, of sll othels, must be rigidly excluded, 'The Intter class may Do soothing-situped by a fow subscriptions and a littlo judioious flattery. Indeed, it pnysthe 4 Qrand Council” first-rato to instituto somo good outside ollices—business and commission agouctos, for instanco—as sedatives to tho class of popers who were never *‘subsdizod” boforo —bocauso their intluence was never worth nav- (ni‘, and not to bo feared. ut, seriously, WIIAT 18 TO BE _TIE END of all this nonnonse? **Crand Councils” are very likely to becomo grand bumbugsa, nnd tuose who worship at the inner shrino of the *‘Femplo ™ may come out even—it they are sharp enough. T bave baon frequontly charged a8 in opposi- tion to the Order of tho Patrons of Husbandry. Until tho mooting of tho National Grauge at St. Louis, it was an unjust chiargo, True, I did ob- ject to, and oriticise somo of its foatures,— among them that of ecorccy,~but mnover with o viow to tho bresking down of the organizntion. Binco that mooting, Lowover, natablo for ita grand doclaration of purposcs ithout any provision for their realization, and for the postponcmont of action upon all of tho vital questions which camo boforo it, oven upon the busincss-vystom for which so much was ox- peatod, I should bo false to the cause to which T lmva boon dovoted for the past two years were I to fail iu the expoxnre of THOSE WEARNESSES in tho organization which throaten the utter do- font of Efiu reform movement, which had been 8o auspiciously iusugurated. Take the trausportution quostion a8 a case in point: tho Natiounl Grange adjourned with no. oxprossion save that of Worthy Mastor Adame, which, in substauco, was & mora ndmission thu ho could not comprohend the quostion, and, thoraforo, askied Congrass to tako 1t In hahd and “ regulate " it, We bayve soen Cougress and the Stato Logislature daucing attondanco ail winter to the Grango-magnatcs, excoodingly sux- 10us to curry favor with its million (#) of votes, Thoy cortainly must bo delighted—ns woll as tho railroad mon—at this oxpression of Master Adams, which was in no manner modifled by any public oxpression of the Grange. It is THEF, EASILST VICTORY 2 that the railrond-kings and their legislative nbettors aver won, Tho big companics were gotting tived of Stafe leglslalion, Leeause thoy found it offectivo ; and their only hope was to got the higher power to interfero in thoir be- Dalf, Just mnt?i how plausible is the proposi- tion that Congross shall togislate for tha long rondy which run from Stato to Btate, while the Btatos may reservo tho powor ovor thoe short roads, Will anybody with a grain of seno protond to_cleim that the regulation of tlo phort roads, which sro practically con- trolled iu tho intorest of the through lines, and which would bs at once cousolidated with them, would meet tho requircments of tho poople of Illinols ? 1t is tho long lines, and their wealthy and unscrupulous managers, which neod ropu- lating,—aud thoy sloue. ow, if Congyees : maunnges the long lines, which practically muu= ago thio short lines, is is not quito urg{mrnnt thnt 1o Siate logislatiou—which uocessurily ylolds to national logislation—is at all practicable, OR, INDEED, POSSIBLE ¢ But it is not my intontion heto to discuss thia question. I bavo only suggested it to show tow cusily on immonse aud powerful organization,—whioh has boon to the' prosent timo kept well in hand,—through Its syatom of myatiticstion and moaningless mummorics, may bo committed to thoe ill-digested views of w singlo individual, and that man ono who las nover had porsonal exporionco of “the subjcet which he presumes to trout. I Congrasa s nll go forward and tuke such action a8 tho “ test Yolo" indicated waa their purpose—tho over- whelming majority cloarly iudicated that the railronds wora not oppolug it,—the country will have A POIRONOUS PILL yon though it 18 sugare &ca'i'l‘"“fi.‘f °1:hnlod *Roform.” Wurn wo aro suftering from ity offccln o may hear our logislators taunting us, as they oo ey faro: with tho nssortion, ©Wo did_your | bidding. Your groat Grango, through its Warthy Master, demandod that wo sliould vote for [iftr] mousuro,” And note how ul.torl{ Imposmblo it i8 to cen= trovert such action, ‘LI'io Councll pracoedings Doing seorat, tho discussious, tao, belug eune flned to thoso who represout ono side of the quostion ouly,—how can thelr fallacious ronson= 1ngs bo mot and tho publio mind bo really odu- catod ? : In couclusion, thon, I do now sot my face squaroly against 1118 GRANGE-MONOPOLY and, feoble tlough my offorta = may be, I will opposo its. further enoroaohmonts upon the province of freo, upLn dwousslon, to tho oxtont of my nbuu?v. As sl rosent officorad and conduoted, it is far maio lLyoateniug to the publio welfure, totho use tional lifo, than auy vallwey-corporation thut hus evor baon droamed of, Not that I ohm[u agalust its ofiloers any wrougful intont, but that they aroas “blind leadlug the biind,” and thas they aro closer upon tho banks of the “‘ditch” than thoy suspeot, Moreanon, Oumas, W. GUEENE, Grangors I'ractical FreoaTradors. Bentiony Hoxr, L1vINos1oN Co., 1ll,, Fob, 23, IH‘IC.} To the Edftor of The Chicaao Tribunc’? Bim: On Bnturdny, as tho Master of our Grango, wo recolvod at the dopot over 8200 worth of gracorios purchinsed in your city, and ordored by the mombors of our Grange, While recelving our goods, Mnsters of two othor Granges wero rocelviug similar consignmonts, which, they in- formed ug, amounted to $700, Ifore was an In- stauco of DIREOT TRADE amounting to nesrly $1,000, ‘What has lod tho Grangor to cense building up nnd ** enconrsging homa-industry 2" Tho ob- Joots of lifo aro bocoming bottor undorstood. A Guangor has ot Inst discovored that food and clothing aro his first wants. Aftor thoy nra suppliod, thon ! protection to Amer- fcan industry” moy bo cousldered, Tho Grangor has algo discovoroed that the tes, coffes, sugar, and other uvocessaries for which ho has boen paying o profit of over 25 por cont, and vory often 40 per cont, are no botter than the samo urticlos which ho now buys in your city at on advanco of not over 5 per cont upon the lowost wholesalo ratos. Thisiucludes the froight. Consoquontly ho Is now buying in the cheapost market,—not following tho examplo of ono mor~ chaut, who preaches one doctrine, but practicos auothor. Wo think o GREAT POIST 1AS BEEN GAINED, both practically and politically, The question of ** Free-Trade and Direct Taxa- tion " will noon bo ogitated, and withs moro vigor thun ever bofore. No stronger argument can thus bo brought forward than to ask tho Grangor t0 lot common sengo be used in tho place of old prejudices, and to nduw: tho sama plan for nn- tional atfairs a8 he has boon practiciug in bis in~ dividual transactions, PrownoLpER, THE FARM AND GARDEN, Calcimininge«The EFrult-Prospect in thp Seuth Lart of thestntes-Shipping of Chorricss=Pruning of ApploTrees ssCutting.Back of Smalf=Fruit Bushe csmepenfeituds and Fruit-Ituds, and Their Relution (o Each Other=-Thin= ning of Fruite=0il for Polished Im= fioney-nA New Plum, and Ity Rea murkable History =- Measuro Ves Warght==The Freight Law Unjust. From Our Agrieuitural Correspondent, CramratoN, IiL, March 5, 1874, OALOIMINING. Waragia, Tll, Fob, 20, 1674, M “Runar"—8im: Why not glve us hourckeepers a littlo information, us well as tho farmer ? In n long scries of yeurs, wich thelr anmial house-cleaning, you must have learned somotbing of whitowashing and calclmining, 1f 5o, plouse toll us about it Mns, P. W, We aro’ annunlly imposed upon by n class of calciminors who ohent us boyond endurance, Thoy givo us tho “silvor-polish™ at 25 to 40 conts o pound, which thoy purchase at the drup- stores for b to 8 conts under tho namo of Parig white, and which they transmute fato ** silvor- polish.” If you wish to do your own caleimining, you will find tho whole operation a very simple ono. To ton pounds of Paris white add half a pound of bost white glue. Sonk the gluo for twonty- four hours in o tin pail containing balf a gallon of warm wator. Lot it atand noar the stovo to koop warm, When about ready to mix up your materials, sot the glue-pail in o kettle of boiling wator, aud stir until it is all dissolved. The Daris white i8 to be put in n pail that you use for the work, and hot water stirred into it until it {s thin enough for putling on with a brush; and the gluo is then mixed with it, whon the materinl is ready. Itcan be Eut on with a large-uized common painter's rnsh, in the ssme mannor thatyon spread pnint; oruse a whitowash-brush. Tho large brushes used by the calciminer may bo had at the drug-stores, and cost from 34 to '$8, but will do no better work than a common round brush, as stated above, and which will bo the best in the hands of nn amatour. A vory thin cont is tho best, as & thick ono ma crack, you will havo to thin the matorisl wit hot wator from timo to timo, If you aro cave- ful, thero is no noed in seattoring the wash over ceapots ana farniture, Dip the ond of the brush iu a8 you would in paint, and you will bave no dripping. Many years ago, in & small New York villngo, thoro vwas o dissipatod painter, who did tho villago whitownshing, for caleimining was thon unknown. IHe used glue and lime, and Rns it on with a lorgo-sized painter's brush. o earpets or furniture were romoved, and there was 1o rubhing off of the whitowash. Tho so- cret-was _in thoroughly dissolving the limo so that tho thinnest possible contlng was applind, During the sonson of houso-cleaning ho kopt sobor, and pave groat sotisfaction; but to got him to do n job of painting at any other time was o mafter of grent uncertainty. Ho was gotting old, and Lnd boen tho villago-white- washer for s zeneration, Ono time I bronght home & $6 caleiminin, ‘brush; but, aftor using it a day, tho hired-gir Enb it in & pail of water to sonk, and the noxt lay it was ruined, Clean your brush when dono with it, and put it away dry. If put in water, sco that the band doos not got wet: and on no account permit the water to roach the up- per ond of tho brush, You must bear In mind that an excoss of glue, and sizing of flour that m:rmo ‘peopla use, will make the whitowssh acalo off. ‘When ono resides in tho country, it is often ‘88 trouble to do your own work of this kind then to.got an oxpert, especially if you have to pay him what ho nglks,—gonerally two or threo Ppriccs. FRUIT IN EGYPT, Coppex, Uniox Co,, Iil., Fab, 20, 1874, Mg, “RorAnL”—Sm: I om glid to say that thus far the winter bua been 8o mild and pleasant thot not a ainglo bud has beeu killed, Wo will, therefare havewitl favorable weathor for fivo woeks—u full crop of all kinds of fruft, Tho number of acres in strawherrics {s not an average; so wo may not have enough to Justify the raiiroad ‘company in_ putting on a frufi-train for that spocial product, “Nor do I thiuk that tho fruit-growera of this acction want a fruit truin 80 long a8 tho through froight-train loaving Liero at 9 g'elock p. m., runpdig through {o Ohleago in thirty hours, can tilke all the products, Yours truly, D, Gow, Tt will bo of interest to the north part of the Btats to lenrn thut they aro to have their regular supplies of {ruit from the south part of tho Stato, As wo go north from the * Grand Chain," the prospeck for a peach-crop is lees * must be rojocted from tho packago, as chn{ i ly in € romising, on account of the dessruction of tho roos by froat and drought in tho winter of 1878, It is found that mostmost garden and orchard Pmducm can be safely amgpud on the through voight, a8 suggested by DMr, Gow, and at o large eaving in freight. Btrawborries must go on & fast train, for they will sourina short time. At Ccbdon they ara ehipped in tho tore part of the day, and shipped so as to reach Chicago or othor markets by b a. m, tho follow- ing day, wlnlo tomatoes; raspborries, penches ears, anrly apples, oto,, may go on the lower roight, arnving in the market after thirty-six hours. For auch long distances the fruit must, of necessity, be picked before fully ripo, an ripon upon theroute; but, whon the distance is sty the frult should be fully ripo before 1ckiog, B In tho SHIPPING OF OMERRIES, Ihave learnod that thoy ship well whon very Tipe. As thoy begin to srink s triflo, they ap- poar to be less_julcy, and the skin, being' len pussed, is loss linblo to burst 4 and, it put in the ! gukngu firmly, #o as notto mbrado each other y thy friction of tha cars, thoy will ship all the botter. .In ehipping the BMuy or Early Richmond cherry, it has been the prac- tica . to _pick thom & triflo before fuily ripe ; ‘but it has boen proved that, in that Stats of mnturity, thoy ara moro lisblo to mod | in the boxos than when fully ripe. In this con- neetion, it is mflar to state that chorrios must bo pleled wltE the stems ; and, in pleking, tho + operator must not take lLiold of tho fruit, buk ct the atom ; and all those that have lost the utcxfi wil often turn sour and bocome miold: welvo bhoura. PRUNING OF APPLE-TREES, Invina, Kan,, Feb, 27, 1674, Mn, * RURAL"—BIR: Please stale how much prun- ing or cutting-back is roquired for S-or-4-ycur-old ‘applo-troes, ut the time of satting in the orchx;:nl. The doctrino of the booka is to cut backthe | Lranohes Ko 08 to balanco the cutting back of tle roots in tho aot of taking up. A firat gight.th s thoory is a plausiblo one, and nlmost universally counceded; but, in practice and in | theory, i8 orroncous. Whon a treo {s trane- Lumcufl, tho firat ifort of growth comoa of tho uds,—tho loaf-buds and the root-buds. In the formor thora 14 the ombryo loaf, with ita ample storo of food to fully dovelop it. Thaso, acth.g directly on the small numbor of roots romaining, urgo them into growth, and thus tho normsl coudition of tho troo {s restored, Ir ou out off the buds, you doprive tho treo of gd, B0 oasentinl ita luy 10 propare the fo0d that is weut back to the xoats and stom, that (s to bulld the vaseular syates tho treo and add to ita solld tissues, piack ot About ton yonrs ago I sot an orchinrd of over 700 troos, lato {n the autumn. Many of thoso waore 3 inohes in dlamoter, and with fixrgn hieads, A part of ono row I carafully ent bnek aceording to the uaual standard ; but, tor want of time, tho othora woro doforred unill wpring; and, whcn that camo, tho pross of work was wo great that it was again put off to summor, I wan suc- prised to weo how the troes not ent back had rro\m, and how those eut back had laggod bo- hind, ~ ‘Thoy have nover come up to the unprunoed troes ; and, for nomo yeare, [‘hn Aiffer onco was vory marked, both in growth of woud and froit. Tho fact is that the cutting back of the branolios 8o impaired the vitality of tlie traon that thoy woro a long time in rocoverire, Bince *_that ‘timo, have not out bak the hepd of & freo ab tho thvo of transplanting, oxcopt to form tho head prop:r- 1y : and, in the pruning of the oichard, Ido n ¢ thin out at all. I havo notlcad that a cloa, shook-ondad troo s not & good boarar; and | would nvoid all traes of the fastiginto or npright form. While all sprending, open-headed trees, of tho form of the Greoning, Winesap, or Liltlo Tiomanite, are not as good bhearors, vot I have nover scon an upright, shook-headed apple-troo produce & good erop. If ono will obaerve this, ho ean alwaya point out the lient ln:lu-lnfv orchard. TPeople who know no bot- tor are liablo to soloct thoso upright, fino-loaka ing troes in the nursery. The round-hond:d troes, liko Bon Davis, Rod Astrachan, and Wile low T'wig, are good bearers, but soldom over- bear; sud these noed no thinuing anw of tho hends, Bwoot Yam and Benoni are of the fastiga into form, and are of 1ittla value in the orckard, as tho fruft is undor. mize, unless it s thiuned out soon aftor sotting; but eulting ont the branches, ia not g0 valuablo as to_thin out thn fruit. Asmde from this, thoro is & Invgo amount of pruning, to cut back tho suckeva nt tho baso of tho treo, and keep the hends in form, 80 that thoy may be appronched eitlier with tho plow or for pathiering the fruit, The culting bacl of blackberries and rasp- berrios is for tho purposo of putting the fraits buds in o more campact form, and {0 compel # atocky habit of - tho plant, for the purpofo_of culture. Bo of the grapo, to chango ita habit, by Induelng & growth of frult instoad of wood, All plauts have TWO FREDISPOSING MARITS: the growtli of tho plant. and growth of the fruit; and thede can bo so direotod that ore of them mny romain almost dormant while the ofl.cr is nearly doubled. A frnit-bud s & modificd lenf-bud. Thus all fruit.buds aro at firat Iiaf- buds. This is tho first stago of plant-lita,— wood-growth; and the next 1s fruit-growih; but, when 'this oceurs, it is apparentlv st tho expense of wood-growth. Tla fruiting of a tree thus checks wond-growth euf- ficlently withont calling in the aid of the saw, shoars, orknifo; and, if we would increaso the Bizo of tho fruit, tho botter way is by thinnirg it out, and not to intorfora with the wocd- growth, as I nave shown that the fruit-prowth in o sufficiont chack (n that dircotion. What wo have to fear tho coming scseon is n dispositicn to overbear, tho frult-buds predomiuntii ovor the leaf-buds. Tiie groworsof fino penckci will iavo plonty to doin_ thinumg tho fruit, ar d tho apple-orchardist will do well to think of shaking off tho excess of numhors on hi trees. I trunt these fow ramarks will o sufficiont lo call tho attontion of farmers to thoso pointy that ‘have beon go carclesaly overlooked. OIL FOR POLISHED TOOLS. - Nrooa, TiL., Mn. #RunaL"—Sm: Durlug tho win and cultivator-teeth hoenme rusty, aud tank to put thent in order. Ono of my nolglbe:s veea linseed-oll and white lead, but that is about s kad 1o got off a5 the rust, Is thero some ofl or ather sule stanco that 1s chieap aud of easy application? A miztare of rosin and tallow may bo ured; but the most conveniont and best of all is.a pound or two of whiting put in a quart of kerc- #ene. This may bo pat on tho polished partwith a brush or old rag, and will como off at onco when put to use. I have used this mixture fer soveral years, for plows, sondes, and other im- plomonts, Plows should be put undor cover 1t nifhc, wiped dry, and this kerosens-mixture ay- plied, The dow and rains will often rust (ha low 8o that halfaday is lost in gotting tto scour. Ingoing to nud from tho fleld, T uso a shoo to tho plow., made of hard wood ; and the plow is_never loft fu tho flold, but put - under cover, when it gots a conting of kerareno, and {t is always ready for use. In the nursery, tho spades aro clenned and put up at night in the same manner; and thus the use of rusiy !{:nflun i8 avoided. ~ Xoroseus is one of the best thinga to tako off Tust that wo havo; and thi, with an oil-stone, i3 the.best thing with wlich to polish up a rusty plow. A NEW TLOM, PiuaTiA, Fla,, Feb, 26, 1874, Afg, “RonAL"—Sm: T havo fonnd f,—a nei plum, T have bren looking aftera nlum-trco that s curcuiia and black-Jmot proof, and I have it, One day in win. ter, T was Eunting in'tho _tivor-timber, aud ot ny way, After wandering about in tho woods unt!l neerly dark, I eame to & emall clearing, fn tho middle ol whioh wan o aumil, shanty-liko houne, I madu nu dee Iny in renching tho liouas, snd found it accupled by a hormit, who had not been amonyr his kind “for n than thirty years, People sometimes pald hin o visi and brought him old clothes; but Lo never atiired ovie side of the forest. Ho lived on the vegetabler of hin mrdnn, and plun -plinng ripo and plims dried in 10 BuD, n-liko prunos, 1 bad obserecd mome Invge troes near tho door of the Lut, sud thewe the hermit told me were BWAN PLUMS. Here {8 the history, ns Fo gave it to me: *“Twenty- eight years ago,” Rald ‘he, ‘‘thero camo n peck (f swans ono night and alighted right in my door and re- mained until morning, This was in Februury, dur- ing a warm spoll of woather; aud, in April, rhout a dozen plum-trecs eamo up whera tho swans had tar- rled over night, and T named them tho Bwan plum, Tho third year' they commencod bearing, The fruft ‘wae largo and almoat white, like the swung,cnd are very rich, Every spring, aftor tho fruit is as largo 18 « poo, there come swarma of curcullos about ny plume frooe; bt they can do them no harm,and thicy #ro s CURCULIO-PRIOOF ; nd, as tho frult is vich und good for drying, ns you can ee, for thuy now constitute a largo” sharo of Wy food, it is the most valnablo plum that has ever been roduced, Thio troes bear Immonso sunital arong, rud inve always been froe of tho black-knot and all otker dirersen,” I begged o few clons, aud last pring grafted them, and now have sbout 200 frees, what Tdesire to know Is, how I shll bo able to he most of this groat discovery. I havo Dbeen thin ing that T might get o silont partnor who wrl'es fcr the agricnltural papors, and who could properly et forth’ the merits of this great plum to flo ublie, without being suspecied of auy er- Bob " motives for, —at (bis time, jeryle are very suspicious of all new things, ond capeeial’s (£ now varieties of fruit. Of coursg, my story wri'd have no weight, a8 Tam intoreated in tho sale of (Lo treoas and it §8 very important that you, or some 1o in wliom the public havo confidencs, fhionld ) ut {1’ valuablo now plum on the market, I have so'd n few clons at s doliar each;_but thoy Acll lowly, on necous of tho suspiclons, na'1 have statod, I havo thouplt some of holdlng it from salc, ond plant out 190 acrca of the treca; but then peopla will steal tho clons, end 1n that way I shall bo chented out of the manopoly, 11 will bo o raro chonce If any person_slhiould stumble, 8 I did, on tho original treea; and, if tho matter 4 ‘propely manngod, » fortune for two or threa patlics might bo made, What say you tos partnombip: o «can you recommend a good, rellablo man, who is ftted for l{m undertaking? Yours truly, J. 8, Nunixa, No doubt this is a wondorful plam, and sone ono should atep forward in this now enternriso. Sond a atamp for tho Post-Offico address of Mr. N. “Tho Farm and Gardon" hna never been connected with speculations of this Lind, and, though the temptation is great, yet it must de- clina tho proffered offer. In a private noto from Mr. N., he saya: '* Any party wishing to invest will bo taken to tho origin! trees in the forast, and bo_fully con- vincod of tho truth stuted in rogard to’ Lhem, The old heimit has concluded to put 300 burhcla of tho plums on the market the coming sonson, to convinca the public that tho plum-trees are tho genning Bwan plums. o i anxiona to }mc:w what kind of packago is bost to ship them n," 1t is probable that tho threo-pock peach- baskots, of the Michignn, Alton, and Cobden rumh-dlatrluts. nro tho best. This baskot now holds, if made hoaping full, eizht wine-quarts that is, thoso mndo for 1873; but it is posalla that another splinter has boou taken off for 18’ But, with this littlo drawbnok, they aro the bi for the shipment of plums, cherries, graper, and similar fruitn, that is now on the market; and, when covered with tarlton, mako a Yruuy Bhov'= ing of tho fruit, ‘This ie & progressive nge, a1.d you it s nq.l\‘\esllon if 1t would not be safa to aps Pply tho brakes o triflo, or wo may go a little too fait. Winc-measuro, beor-measuro, and budhol- monsure have long sinco como to bo & dolusion § and wo have got to OALL TN THE BCALES. in the nale of fluids and solids; and tho foaming baar, tho EM“ of whisky, tho box of berrier, and tho bushol of corn, must all como to tho same standard of paunds and ounces. Will tho Board of Trade, or the consumors, ariso in their might and make the practios universal ? RAILTOAD FREIONTS, If the Legielature would adopt tho froight- gohedulo as & maximum of rates, and nllow tho Taliroads to chargo as much lower as thoy chioaso to do from any station, without regard to ruv other station, the wholo quostion would be met. Inthat crse, no ono is ovorcharged ; and, if the road chooro to carry for othors at o losing rate, let thom do 8o, Undor the prescnt law, no ono is benelited, while the great mass of the produocers suffor, and all businoss-mon ero rut ot o disndvantage. It may be a matter of ndfferonce to the farmers whothor {hcir grain {8 sont to Chioago or Baltimore ; but thoy want Chicago to have an equal advonts instend of having our Legislaturo discrumin against our own paople, At loast glve us jute 400, eyen I fanaticsoan't 8oo ity Rouaty