Chicago Daily Tribune Newspaper, July 27, 1873, Page 6

E CHI GO DAILY TRIBUNE: SUNDAY, FASHIONS. Latost Chicago and New York DModes. Tho Rormandy Cap---Striped Silk ogoms Balbing, Yachiing, and Bquos- friun Costumes. S:a-Sido Plumage---Fanciful Feathers for Fine Birds. Velvet Petticoats--~Tho Disappearing of Bright Colors.--A Braco of Ball-Dresses, CHICAGO, TIE NORMANDY CAT, 80 called, which has boen 8o favorably racoeived, and rexlly has, so to spoak, bocomo tho rago in Ciiiengo, Lias loat nll its nntivo simpliclty, and Is I many casos as unliko the artlclo it ia jntonded to ropresont as it woll can bo, It was not origi- nally designed from the cap of tho Norman peasant, for that has a sort of wido wings at. tached to it, nol unlike the hond-dress worn by somo ordor of religions, It was renlly copied from those of tho Tronch '‘‘bonne,” nud is frequently scen upon tho honds of theso peoplo in our Eastorn citics. Dut okl nat “‘ITow the mighty has fallen," but how the sim- plohas risen! Tho simple cnp of cotton, with its cotton strings, was mado of finor mate- rinl, Tined with silk, edged with laco, and adoptod s ““ the thing " for tho babies, Noxt it tookupon [tsolf long stronmers of velvet or ribbon, and s bunch of flowers carolessly lknotted at the side, —duisies, rorobuds, or pansies; and those who still rejoicod in that “ beauto dos diablo " which, ia worth alf elso in the world to its posscssors, donned the pretty, becoming hoad-tire, and wont forth armod for conquost. Bat hore its simplicity and beauty ended, and all sorts of unorthodox materials wore brought into roqui- sition. 1t was mado—not pnly of black and white, but of all the colors of tho rainbow, and flowers of all descriptions, and foathors of overy bue, woro piled upon it, and still it was callod o Normandy eap. What would tho peasant who wears tho originnl articlo say to one of these ‘bedizonod things ? 8ho cortainly would not rec- ognizo it. Call them Liberty caps, if yon will, and then nssert the approprintoness of tho name by making them of any malerial, and trimming thom in =s outrs mannor as you ploaso; but It is cortninly arbitrary to dosignato theso monstrositics Normandy caps. Somo of tho now departurcs ato quite protty, others in- tolorably ugly, and wo are sorry to say that tho Inttor predomivnte. A varioly in shapo hadn small, slmred front, resombling tho old-fash- foned “calecko,” or ““ ugly " in miniaturo, This, with a roll of ribbon under the brim, was quile bocoming in shapo, and should bo mado of or- gaudy or Sriss muslin. Jumping from tho head to tho feot would bs quito an undertaking if Long Jobn Wontworth woro tho porgon whose altitudo was to measure the leap, or oven somo of thoso people they raiso in Maino, who aro always strotching up to look over hills and tall trcos. Not boing any of theao, but ouly somo fashionablo belle’s stature which wo havo to cousider, it will not boa weri- ous undortaking to lot our thoughts quiotly down from & dissortation on her Lead-droes to a cousideration of tho fashionablo COVERING FOR HER FEET. Blriped eilk lLoeo ware introduced some time ago, but did not meot with particular favor, ox- copt for oceaeional house-wear. They seem, however, to be guining in appreciation, and, for croquot-parties, archicry-meetings, “or out-of- door wportu’gonerally, aro in good tnsto. Ordi- narily, ladios profor cotton or Linle-thrond hose. The “latter, in fine unbloachod goods of tho stylo callod Opora hoso, when onco usod will searcoly ba repluced by any movelty. Thoy aro £0 cool nd dglicato for_summor-uso_that thoy aro, ns thoy desorvo to bo, worn by all who can aiford them. Tho striped hose, whothor in sill or woolen, will bo desirablo in 'winter, if they continuo in voguo. In this respect thio Fronch woman 18 woro sousible thun tho American. Blio does not walk forth in all weathors with trailing akirts and white stockings., Whe among our own lady-pedeatrinug hns not realized with ashiverof horror thocondition of hor hose above hor boot-tops whon, on some rainy dag, or whon tho strecty wore filled with snowy slush, or the mud *‘thick and slab,” sho has gone shop- ping, or been callod into tho stroot by imperative necedwity? 1f sbo wore galoslios, sho could not step with ker ordinary lightuoss, and the mud splashed. 1t, instond, she had hor foot encased in a thicl boot with n sonsible heel, still, unless hor skirts weve raised far above tho lovel rocont- 1y roquired by fashion, and slmost abovo that necossitntod by doconcy, thoy wera surc to gath- or up aufliciont filth to soil her shoos and satu- rato lor hoso. What mother's daughter among you cannot reeall how utterly demoralized you Tolt when in this condition! "You know that the hat woe stunning ; that tho paletot fitted you to & nicety, showing evory curve und sinuosity of your gracoful figura; that tho gloves woro oqual to the occasion; but, when you came to cross tho stroct and gave o pull at tho strmg of your dross-olovator, or . gath- orod the wholo maes in your hinds, letting & corner drop hore, o flounco touch thore, you folt it wns drawn up in another place until you disclosod to that groupof bipedain bifurcations, who wore staring at you Irom iho opposite cornar, tho entire naaty condition of thoso stock- ings for four or fivo inchos above the tops of your boots. At such a time all tho rest of your dino dress goes for notbing; and you inwardly rovilo tho mud, and wish nlternately that the ground undor you would open and cover you, and that those mon on tho corner meot with the fato of Pcoping Tom. Colored hoso would, of course, not act ns a proveniive of these diffi- culties, but thoy would mitigata the trouble somowhat, Lilkio the old woman’s dishes, thoy wouldu't #how the dirt tlulto £0 ohtrusivoly, and you would look and fool less liko the most mag- nificont Brighinmn of tho barn-yard when Lo hns been cought out in & wol-rain, It is o disconsolate condition of affalrs for both of you, but lot us hope your forlorn stato may bo mitigated ‘anothor year by Dright, protty, &uitablo hose—not by any means tho slute-colored abominations that ohtain in the ruinl districts, 'Ihreo kinds of drossos como particularly into notico during this soason, These nre UATUING, YAGHTING, AND EQUESTRIAN costumes, For the firsb of theso, fine, light flannol is decidodly proforable, although othor matorinls uro usod, among which tickings and Choviots are most 'worn. -~ Flannel, howover, is much profurublo, and in made, nccording to fan- cy, of cither white, bluo, or gray, and somotimos of searlot, Tho Intter is rathor too prononce for most ladies, 'Choy are made with blouso aud drawors; and, whon the fair wearor doos not ob- ject to having her urms kissod Ly the sun, short wloovon will bo found plonsant, as thoy give free- dom to tho arm, and, if tho bather dosiros also to bocomo & swimmor, makoe tho latior accom- plishiment moroe readily acquired. 'I'hat* afl women should ut lenst luow enough to koep thomsclves oflont whon in~ tho wator, owpecinlly thoss who enjoy aud Join in_nquatic sports, wooms ospeelally necos- eary, Bearcoly any son-coast but threntons him who ventures inta tho waves that dash upon it, with its clinging, morciless undartow. Only thoso who have experioncod it can roallze the feoling of horror which one undergoes whon, Just beyond tholr depth, the undortow catehos them with a grip liko that of Ilngo's dovil-fish, . and drags them away, One inatunt’s loss of prosencoe of mind, ono pulkc o terror yiclded {n, and tho monster has you. Thore is Lut one thing to do: 'Lho very moment that insidioun grasp I folt, throw yoursolf rosolutoly to tho surfuco of tho wator, und then you aro safo if you know how oither to float or awim but, it niot, it is hierdly safo to loave the guide-rapos on any of onr shoros. And now to got back to the dresn suitable for this onjoyment,—for no one who hns onco roulized 'tho exhilaration of sen-bathing but will loug for the sca- son to come in which it {a pousible to ronow it, Wearwhort sloovos, then, young ladien, if posaible, and do not have your blouscs mudo either too long or full, ‘I'hey should not all bolow tho knoo, and the drawore should not 2o gatherad Into n band, They hold too much ‘wator, and mako bathing an offort which Is too bxhaustivg. Mako thom, thon, sa light and scunt ag deconoy and proprioty will admit, and 4t you wish thom ornamentod, edd n fow rows of nliwmblnm, of n lmrmnnlzln[( or_ contrasting color. 'Che propor thing to woar down to tho shoro lnn!oufi olonk, mado of whito or gra Turkish towoling, with o long, polnted hood nm\l\‘huuvycon about tho waist,—n_sort o monk's roba ndaptod Lo the frivolity of Miss Me- Flimsy & Co. Your mnid of courso nocom- panles you, ond nwaits your roinrn, whon 8lo’ sgnin’ concoals your drippiug figuro With this robs, not of mortiflention, nor sanctification, but of somi-gloriticntion, o pecinlly whon tho whito drapory has scarlob bironds through it, searlet buttons, tnsaols, nod cord, But vomo of you oxclaim, * Wo havo no mnids.” Thon what aro you doibg ot fashion- oblo soa-aldo rosorta? But novor miud; you must dotail some good clinporon to take ilioso wraps In clinrgo, aud thon nenist cno another whon you loavo tho wator. It is alwaysn causo of wondormont to strangers who eoo _tho long oxpnnso of the lako-horo, with its sands aud its Dbluto water, that, although but an juland sen, noithor tho city nor any private individual has ovor turned it to acconnt in the way of a hugo opon-alr lavatory-nccommodation. Why have thore nover boon bath-housos creoted loro, as ou tho sands at Nowport, Long Branch, or Nan- tankot, with somo fashionablo hour to batho ? Chicagoans havo this luxury at their vory doors almoat, and thoy closo tholr oyes and pay no hood to its {uviting coolness as o pooplo. i’h is given up to tho sang-culottes aftor dusk, Noxt come YACHTING COSTUMES, and theno still provail in navy-blno flannel. ‘I'bin, bolng do roglo among real Jack-tnrs, Mid- dios, and oflicors, baconios naturally the uuiform, first of the malo tyros who arotrying thoir lande: mon's kuowledga of {ho sen, and thon of the dear oronturos thomsolyes who ‘““liko & stiff brooze, you know.” Ladics' costumes are sim- ply made with plain skirt, blouso waist, with rond sallor-collar and ensli; or, moro olabo- ratoly, with Kkilt-plaitings and rufiles, Bilver anchors, or tho ssme omblem ombroidered in silk, on tho collar and cuffs, {8 & part of the rogalin; whilo the sailor-hnt is of courso indis- ponsable, Polka-dotted fabrics aro sometimes usod, as also tho dark Napoleon-bluo linon; but * the Intter is not dosirablo, a8 it absorbs moisturo, elings to tho poraon, is chill- ing to tho touch, and vory soon loaea its stiffncss and looke dragglod, Ouo droun_consiatod of & Dlue flannel undorskirt, with kilt-plaited front- broadth, n“thh folds on the back, trimmed with white military braid ; o vast of whito duok, fastonod with anchors, and o jncket of fiannel, with broad sailor collar ; a sash of lighter bluo assing around tho luPu, and knotted low on the loft sido; silver chalotaine to which was attached » emall spoaking-trumpot, & miniature marino- glass, and a toy-quadrant,—tho two former nvail- ablo for servico, tho Intter purely ornumental ; Tinbagas lint, pitched well hack on the hend, and o gonoral air of don't-cara-u-tivouoss if the' sun doas brown and blistor one. Then there camo TIIE EQUESTRIAN COSTUMES, Theso should invariably bo mado by a tailor, aud, if possible, from cloth, Lightor fabric blow about too unai](. and no lady feols com- Tortablo on lioraabacl if, whon in o smart canter, slie fools thnt hor drapory s stronming bohin Do, whilo hior foot that s in tho stirrup, possi- bly tho ono ovor the pommel, are displayod in all their boauty or uglinoss, Much of tho charm of & woman on Amazous conslsts in tho fit of hor dross and tho fall of hor skirt. To be sure, theso will not atone for a bad soat, an awkward position, or unakillful horsemauship; but grant all the latter, and nnfiluul the former, and the tout onsomblo ia decidedly marrod. Black cloth Lis tho proforenco, cut after the English fashe ion, with short jockoy basque, hold down Ly but- tous, coat-sloovos without cuffs, and tho body fastened with cloth or hoevy sillc _ battons; flm’lni linen cuffs and standing collars, el with gilver shields, on which tlio wearor's monogram 15 en- graved. Loud young Indion wear oxydized sil- vor buttons, striped porealolingorio, and coral pin and sleove-buttons. ‘The gloves of chamois or uu- dresnod kid, proforably thelatter, nroout with long wriste, which are not now sawod on in gauntlot- shiapo, but aro of the ramo piceo with tho glove, aud fit closely. Tha bodies of riding Lnbits are ususally slightly wadded, or lined with a_quilted lining, which disguises hngularities, and gives n Iook of plumpness to tho form. \What & pity thnt that same loauncsy will aliways show at tho throat, tho jaws, and tho cheok-bones, T'at is beyond tho'tailor's art to disguise, though tho smporintondont of tho toilotte may somowhat conceal thoso dofects. Don't toke any modern Amazon's form on trust, then, any moro than you would tho flrfl:m’e shouldors of some of your masculine frionds. The tailor is o mechanic- al Talloyrand, who disguises form with artistlo clothing, tmstond of thoughts with words. t'or tho benefit of thoso of our friends who do not employ a fashionabla tailor, or who aro averso to shooking tho fractioual portion of bumanity in their village that makes the store- clothes of tho community, wo will tell them that tho right stdo of riding skirts should bo mudo lun‘ior than the loft, so_as to fall ovenly after tho log is thrown ovor the pommel of tho saddlo, —length from a yard-and-a-haif to ong-and threo quarters, with width at the bottom about threo- yarde-ond-n-half or 'a vory little wider. Hats aro proforably silk stove-pipes, with xolling brims, and onfiroly conconl tho hair, which i wound in o small coil on tho top of tho hoad. In tho country, straw hats sometimes supersodo the sillk “hat, and aro trimmed with s voll of black gronndino, or o long os- trioh plumo, Horo, also, dark blue and groen babits may be worn, Tho fair domoisello who talos hier oxorcige in Chicago, on its boule- vards, or out to its parks, will, however, prefor tho black habit and silk bat. That this subject should bo ono of intorest for our citizons, can admit of no question, In no city on this conti- nout is thore & bettor chance for ladies to bo- coms porfect Lorsowomon than here, and young Indios, at least, should enjoy it to tho uttormost, orican womon in the Enstorn citios. are fast omulating Buglish women in their love for tha enddlo, and, with tho present introduction into fashionable circles of lealthy, out-of-door exer- cise, wo think our noxt gendration will bo less whiny, piny women than many of thoeir mothers aro, A porfectly hoalthy woman i« an auomaly in this country, only countorbalancod by tho fact that the mon aro not in much bettor condition, Tho women are nervous, {ho mon dyspoptic, and all overworked in some wey, Whon "n littlo more real life is doveloped, and thero are fowor eacriflees to show and shams, then wo mny hope for timo to live. Now, our lives aro mostly spont in proparmng for that fil‘flflt condition, and then, liko the horso who ud just found' o singlo straw o duy sufficiont and Eatlsfactory diet, wo (\ulntly or resistingly dio, according to the ovigina) sin till in us, IN FMALLER ITEXS wo may odd that fans still grow, and, if they continue to iucroaso in sizo, wo sball havo to im- port somo choap Chineso lubor to make them avuilablo a8 o raieor of the wind, At prevont, whon it ig warm onough to need their air, it is quite too warm to use them, Parisiun drossos aro snid to fit closoly to the fguro, and to Lo without fullncss, and hold down’ by’ welghts in tho Dottom of tho dress. The polonaise atill lives, and is made of acru lzce-insertion nud Lauds of black volvet, to bo worn over black, bronzo, or mordore skirts, A Frou-frou brown dross in threo shades, trimmed with searlot, had a_ polonaino of volvet and ecru-yak inscrtion, caught up with a sash of biack aud light corus #etin. Thohead-dross was o Spanish vell, held by a bandoau of jet, with a searlet roso_ nostling under tho loft ear, nnd the points held on the Dreast by anothor roso with shadod brown loaves, Bloovoloso jackota of volvot, jot, and laca, still supplomont oo sillk costumes, ospooinlly black ones, and aro brightencd by col- ored bows, Freises and ruffy, liko™ fans, still inoreaso in wsizo; whilo the clhate- Inine-bodico is more fl'u}unu(ly introducod. Bracelots ara coming in and lockets going ont o littlo, Tarringo aro gold hulls or buttons. Veils must_bo worn In the atroot, unless you wish to dofy fashion. Don't uso cosmotics over-freoly, and have n littlo rogard for yonr oyosight. If you are fashionable, howover, you do use cos- motics, aud you would rather be blind in a month than not to woar a veil whon it is the {hing to do #0. Yon must wenr dark-greon gronadine for trayoling, pinkish-groy gauzo in the morning, and w sqiaro or_poitted voil of not, thrown over tho Lonnet, with the point hanging below tho ohin, for full dress. Yon may catoh tho ends togothor bohind with a Vonetian dagior ox an Indianpin of oxydized silvor, and thou go forth to counuer or surrendor, whieh ovor your fato may be. e NEW YORK, Irom Our Oun Correspandent, Niiw Yonr, July 24, 1870, 1t ono thing moro thau anothor is inspiring to tho wntor upon modes, It Is o sojourn at tho largest hotol of o fashionable watering-plico. Tho shops, the mantus-makers, tho millinors, 8Low you thelr wares [n sogmonts and {n wholes, in tho picco and in tho garment ; but tho idos you got of them thon, compared to tho idea you got when tho things aro worn by liviug, breath- ing, moving Lumanity, is a8 lookiug in tho twl- light und {u the sunshine of noon-day. In tho parlors and on tho plazzas of o groat hontolry, thoro Is such a porfeot panorama of dry goods that one hay only to obsorvo, annlyzo, aud—obroniolo, It that bo tho ond in viow. TIE SUMMER OAPITAT— fouse tho phrase of tho Lour—Iiy an oxcollont 8pot in whioh to obsotvo tho purely-fashionablo world, and to bo Ao inconnpicuous in attiro as to attraot mo nitontion ona's solf ia the way to ho thoroughly cutortalnod by tho peoplo In gonaral, Bhould tho feshion-odlitor of the Ifenolulu Ga- 2elta bo suddonly droppod from n bulloo in front of tho Ocoan or Weat Iind, he would need to ro- main but twenty-four hours to propare himsel? to direct tho 1awailan bellos in mattora of toilot for tho noxt throo monthe, Botwoon sunriso and midnight,—nay, batwoen considerably later than sunrisonnd midnight,—evory woman at tho Branch prosonla in Liorsolf an epitomo of tho sonson's styloy. Droakfast, dinmor, tho lounge on the vorandal, tho drivo, tes, tho hop, or ronding, or concort in tho ovening, all prosont now and ealiont poinis In dross, As DREAKFABT-COSTUNES nnturally coma first in tho lint, thoy shall havo priority of degeription. A popular, but orron- oouy, notlon is, that a morning-dross is simplo becanso it in o morning-dress, and also bocauso 1t is usunlly mado of washablo stuffa. But tho modish morning-dress Is a8 olaborato In its way a8 tho dlunor or ball-dress, and, whatover ita material, itis ns far from being washable, in fact, ns silka and sntina, In tho mattor of colors, macioty seoms to bo divided mto two pnrtics,—tho buffs and blucs. Tiast yoor, and n yonr or two provious, tho buffs earriod averytbing boforo thom ; but, this yoar, the blues aro in tho nscondant, and for tho fow pooplo who eannot wear any shado of blue, tho sonson may bo sot down as a failure. Even whito, for long years the favorite matutinal garb —i8s now eearcoly n peer of blue. Tho fabrics ara notably linen, Chrmbory, and plain or polka- dottnd cambrio ; and the shades range from sky to Napoleon and indigo,—~the lattor being tho ugliost and tho bost bluo to wash. The form is alimost {nvariably o polonaiso and skirt, thongh thore aro a fow charming designs with overskirts, and ono or two without any. An oxquisito snit of sly-blue, noft-finishod cnmbrio hua n okitt, which rosts but o fow Inchos on the ground, trimmod with fivo gradunted ruflos of the same—tho widost being ton and the narrowest throo inches. Thoso flounces are olaborately embroidored on the lower odgo and mealloped on tho upper in whito nun's cotton, and gathored on n large wolting cord an_inch from the top. 'Llio uppor dross, o short as bardly to be o polonaire, and too doop to bo & bauquo, is mado With & yolo,— tho lower portion of tho waist boing gathored on a.cord and sewed on the yoke (liko the old-fanh- ionod yoko-walat),—tho standing ruffla boing, of courso, scalloped_with whito. Th full portion of tho body, carriod about twolve inchos bolow tho bolt, s slnshod to tho waist, half & dozon times, nnd tho tabs thus formed ara embroid- ored to match tho kirt. This tunic 1y gatherod at the wais and fastenad to & band undorneath, while an elab~ orntely-wronght bolt of tho bluo, held by & duinty pearl bucklo, secures it outsido. Tho sleoves aro cont-ghapod, with embroidered euffy, and tho nocle as n fraigo, also ombroidered, and making 8o deep a V in front a8 to meet at the Towor edge of tho yoko. Bmbroidered muslin rufiles in neck and slooves are worn with this, A Frouch blue linon costumo 18 trinuned with fingor-and-n-halt-wido ?umngs, placad_porpon- diculorly from hem to knoo. Tho pufiinga aro mado by turning tho edge under an inch-and-a- half, and gathoring with two throads closo to- gothior, instond” of om n cord, an inch ‘from the odgo. Undor thoss tiny rafllos, or rathor frills, aro Inid scant ruffles’ of fina Tamburg work. Thoso vor- tical trimmings, which haye s fingor's distanco Dotween thom, fro honded by o puit and Ham. burg ruflles. Tho polonaiso to this suit ia of blue linen, with small whito dots, looped vory bigh on tho ips, and loss sio behind, hordered Dby n pufl of tho'plain and tho HMamburg work, and closed with pearl buttons. This is more striking, but not s protly ns tho othor, i which tho blonding of tho bluo and whito i admiras ble. The whito morning-drosnes are less noticeablo i stylo than tho blue,—thero boing fewor flut- ings and moro laca ugod than formorly, and tho fabrics being gonorally of tho softost, such ng nainnook, fine” cambrie, and barred muslin, in placo of pique and stifl eambric. One of the novelties of tho scagon, which was iutrodueed at Paris lnst surmor, is VELVET PETTICOATS, Thus it appoars to have takon sensfhla Ameri- eaa dames 5 wholo yonr, as woll it might, to con- cedo that volvot (belonging, if anything docs, to the coldost woathor) could be used in midsum- mer, Had thoy rojected it nltogothor, one would bavo estcomed it wiser in them; but * they have two things in thelr favor,—the coolnoss of {hose glorious days, and the practicability of remodeling a por- tion of their Inst wintor's wardrobe for warm woathor,—its serving o second time boing such amatier of moment to tho persons who woar velvet hinbitually. Velvot potticoats are goner- ally without ornamontation of any kind, and aro worn principally with light polonaiscs ' of ecru, or equully palo tints of gray, brown, and othor low colors, These heavy skirts aro_cliosen for promonndos as well as for driving, though why any right-minded woman should voluntarily chooso to walk in black velvet,—thoy aro chiofly black,—in July aud August, is past oxplanation, A thing that is gspocially striking to . prac- ticed oyo in watering-place wardrobes iy the ATSENCE OF URIGHT COLOTS, which, a fow yoars ago, wero considered ho only suitablo hucs. In place of former bnos, greond, lilacs, pinks, reds, purples, we havo now the faintost tingoa of them ally and employ black, doop shados of plum, Qualer-drab, grays of overy dogreo from poarl to olophant, browns from uubloncheii to cloye,—in short, overything which canuot come undor tho hoad of high col- ors, Tho Intter aro oxcluded from overy style of dross, excopt for ovening. This is a long stop In good tasto,—tho oxumplo hiaving boon set by our models, the Fronch, somo timo ago. ‘I'he contrast of colors in an ordinary room full of lndles, a dozon years since, in some- thing forrfal to contempluta from our prosont advanced standpoint. Whatevor disharmonios wo aro pufferors from unowadays, disharmonies of color aro nov often among thom, Indood, even 1n full dross, vory brilliant tints aro rarel: usod, delicete shades taking thoir place in al- most all cases. T have chaerved this particular- Iy this season, and two or thrao of theno pale, spiritual-looking robos ave wortliy of description, A DALL-DRESS of pearl-gray Chembory gunzo and faille is ro- markably” protty. The skir law on the back- brendths threo flounces of the gruze rollod on tho cdge, gathered, aud headed by thickly- pluited, dosply-fringed ruchings of " tha silk, The front breadth is ornementod by five narrow fringed ruflas of tho silk, hoadod by puings of the gruzo,—the fringo boing o deep as scurcely to leavo any of Lhesille visiblo, 'The airy ovor- slirt {6 _odged by tho fringed slllc and gauzo pufl, and i loopod and hold i place by a superb artiffeial wroath of autumn-tinted woudbino, so lightly fustoned as not toscom sawed inany spot, The wnist of the robe, of tho gouzo Inid smoothly ovor the wilk, pointed doeply boforo aud bebind, is_ornamented in henrt-shapo, by tho fringo of sillc and gauzo puft, which, afior ).mm{ilui in front, crosses tho front, nud fautens witla buuch of tho bright leaves under the right arm, ‘I'wo or threo small lenvos nro also on tho bronst where tho pwiT meots. 1'lo nook in fillod with a film of Mechilu lace, us are also tho hnlf-flowing sloovei. A noekluco of ex- quisitely-carvod eornl, ear-drops, and bonds In tho bair, "comploto this lovely toilotte,—moro offectiva thun many thut are richer and more claborato. ANOTHER, An oxtromely oxponsivo dres I8 & tint of blun corresponding to Nile-groon : but T hiavo forgot ton ity tochnical name, Tho sicirt is trimmed round, instend of haviog two_ stylos, Around tho bottomn iv a ton-inch plaited flounce of tho wilie, 0\'0|Inpph|fi it I8 u beautiful lounce of Yulonclonnes, cight inchos wido, hendud by n band of ostrich-fouther trimming, tho color of tho dross, Thon a uurrow epace, uuother flounco of the wilit, not #o wido, tha rulle of lace fin- dshod by tho fonthor-band, and o up tho train till within twolve or foarteon inches of tha waist, Tho walst Iy cut in daop points, and low in tho neck,—tho shouldors being oon- coaled by u magnifloont fleh of Valoncionnos, which ~ crosson on the boson, passes under tho arms, uud toy once bo- Lind, leaving long sash-onds. Who uluoven, neurly tight 1o th olbow, havo a plnited rafle of wilk, with a foathor banud, and an imuor one of tho benutiful laco, A fino necklaco of wirung !mm'ln, enr-dropy, nud braceloty, and o u{rmy of en-roson and luavos on tho bosom, aro tho' fin- iuhing touchos to this queonly costumo, Thowo two dresses aro fulr examples of tho roully oxquisite tuste frequontly shown in com- bination with lavish nx!munlluu‘n of monoy. Awmoriean womon dress botor ovory your, Thoy spond oxtravaguntly, but Lthoy aro how spondiug 10 1 good ml\'mnngu, when, a little while ngo, thoy morely wastod, ' Quict’ elegance, Instond of worotricious diuplay, is growing to be the fu- stiuct aud habit of their life, TFunyerow, Miscellnnoous Fushion Xtoms. rom the New York Muil, Blondo halr {8 worth morv thau ita wolght in Rold, Tho motal costs nbout 818 sn ounco, while the hair solls for from 830 to 830, —Anglo-Tndiau * puggaroen’ axo.n favorito fominino hond-gonr at tho sonatdo. ~Tlowers made of mothor-of-poatl aro a nowly- inventad trimming for wodding-drosson, —Dogs of good socia] position atthe watoring- plncon wonr batisto garmonts, pmbroldorad wil amonogram, —O0Id fashions aro boing overy day rovived in Indies' dross, A an instance, tho prosont stylo of wonring the air dates bnck to & period prior to the invaution of combn, —Two or throo Cuban ladics hovoe created a broozo at Baratogn Ly smokiug clgnrottos on tha Drlcony of ono 0§ tho loading hotols. They wore quito {ndifforont to tho gazo aud sudiblo com- monts of promonadora, ~—Tavilions for oroquot parties sro tho Iatest. Thoy ara noat asnd jlnunty intonded to shicld spoctatora and partiolpants In tho gamo from tho sun. They are of whito canvas, snd aro orna- meontod with a profusion of buntiog. —XRodingotos for summor woar ar¢ now mado of Turkish toweling, and trimmed with wido black velvet, Thoy aro made doublo-broasted, aud, without fitting too closo to the figuro, the: outline tho form ufalontly to do away Wit Lolts aud sashos, — SUNDAY LAGER. Thia Aong you hoar o a song of the boor, To bo sung in tho nummer gardens tho Ingor sliops, ‘Which tho exciso atops To coddlo our grim church wardens, 1t 15 not song. Of tha spigot and bung Of thio flory whiskoy barreis § Nor tho ‘;nlmmmi in And tho hideous di And tho elirloks of murdoroua quarzels, This song of mino 18 not of tho wino On rich mon's Sundsy tabloa; Of tho costly Hock, Whoso ‘vrlcon ahock Tho poor with tho aenss of fables Nor tho winon of Bpain; Nor thio gay champagne To tho bonkor's brim that bubblos § Nor tha raro Tokny, Nor tho Madoc's way Of Ionding o balm to troubles, TEiaa songof tho boor, Whoso mild, sincore, And pleasant frothings cool us, A o shun tho heat Of tha bilsterod tract, Ana lot soft muso rulo ud, "Tis & nong af the shade In citics niado For thie poor to seck In summer, Wheu'tho foul air pont In the tenemont Tholr blood and souls encumbor. *Tia & song of tho freo, Glad barmony ‘That softeus tho wildest s irit, ‘With thoughts of the Lot And dronms of the reat ‘Which ouly thio pure inlerit, "Tin only a song, For tho rulo of tho wrong. Tholx‘mnr mion’s day has barr’d (o § s muslo s hushed, 1lis beer-mug's cruslicd, And cloded {s his Sundny garden, —Orpheua C. Ierr in the New York World, ——— * 'LITERARY NOTES, Rnufledqn, in London, bas published * Tho Book of Modern American Anoodotes,” edited by IL Paul. —Matthow Arnold has a new book in press, on “Mighor Schools nnd Univorsities in Gor- many,"” ~1'he Marpers will publish noxt mouth Benor Castolar’s ** Old Romo and Now Italy,” as trans- lated by Mrs. Artbur Arnold, of Englnud. —Fonter, Dickons' biographer, i said to be in poesession of avery manuseript of tho groat nov- elist's works, besideu lnrge collection of other intorosting MSS, —Tho visit of the 8hal i bringing bis conntry to publio attontion. An English translation of Dr. Lolal’s worlk oni Porain, published in Loipsig in 1865, will soon be printed in London. —Mr. W. II, Myora, Chiueso Socrctary to the British Logation it Lekin, han finished Liy man- ukcript dictionary of biographical and historical roferoncos, ombracing tho wholo of Chiueso llta:nmru from the oarlinst poriod to the prosont century, —It iu of Julian awthorno's novel, “Bressant,” that the Nation wny ‘It isbad becauso it Incka deconcy. In tho placo of genuina sludy of human boiugs, it gives us a morbid fingoring of uucloan omotions.” Tho Nation'snotico will soll & good many of tho books. —Tho Baroneas Tautphous, authoress of that charming sorios of novels o woll known to American rondors a8 “Tho Initials," * Quits,” * Cyilln,” &o., is an English womnn, daughtor of tho colebrated Lord Erskine, formerly Lord High Chancellor of England, Shoisa cousin of Marin Edgeworth, and las lived for tho paat thirty Son.rs in Bavarins, where she married a noblemau, Uhamberlain to the King. Onoof hor 8011 i in tho royal honsohold 18 o pago. —Sonor Gonzaloz do In Rusn, o lenrned Porn- vinn, who is preparing cditions of somo fm- Eortnul.sumlnh manueckipts for tho press (the ondon Athenun: enys), hos mado an_intorest- ing discovery respecting one of Mr. Proseott's priucipal suthorities i bis Conqusst of Poru.” Tordly any suthor ia moro froquontly quoted in that work than * Barmionto,” whom Mr. Pres- cott supposed to bo o writor who bad himselt been long in Poru and an oye-wilnoss of thoe aconos ko doscribed. Senor do In Itoea is able to provo that tho manuscript in ques. tion In really tho second part of the * Chroniclo of Poru," by Cieza do Loow (hitherto supposed to bo loat) ; that Barmlonto was a lnwyer and Prosidont of tho Council of the Indics, who was nover in Awmerica in his lifo; aud that the docu- ment i8 merely indorsed as having Dbeen eent to him, Wo mayadd that a new cdition of Mr. Prescott's writings, editod by Mr. Forstor Kirko, tho historian of Chatlos the IBold, is in progs in London. S_Tho Harrison (0.) News oxprosses tho following sentiments: ~ *“If thoro it ono class of individuals more than another toward whom wo indulge & most wholcsome (or unwholosomo) disgust, and for whom wo havo pity that bor- dori on’ contompt, it is tho madern poot (7) or tho common grindor of very common doggorol. For instanco, who hina read Bret Harts or John Hay without fooling eorry for Lis relations, and uttering an Involuntary” thankegiving that thoy don't bavo the samno camplaint in thoir family | Why such “sorry, silly stufl finds its way futo firai-claus nowspapers, and oven commands o high promitm amiong tho literary journals, ia moro than we can concoivo; unloss, perhaps, for the unme ronson that lottorios nud other oqually moral (7) monoy-making mediums are introducod into cluirch fairy and festivals, The morbid man of socioly craves such stust, and their monoy will purchaso satisfaction. And intelli- gent, dignitied oditoru—who dio at 40 from ox- traordinury brain Jabor—are willing to descend to such disgraceful conduct for the sako of a fow pnltlg dollnrs! Pahl" —On the 8th inet. tho lbrary of tho Iato Mr, W. 0. Macrendy wns sold at aiiction by Mossrs. Christie, Manson & Wood, in London, = Among tho lots which attracted’ most attention and zoalizod tho highost figures wero tho following prosentatiou copios, botrlug tho autograph of Charles Dickons ¢ * Piclkwicl,” £7 3 “Nir.-llmlus Nickloby,” £16; *The Old Curiosity Blop,"” 46 108; ‘‘Amorican Notes,” £ 10s; *Tlo Haunted Mnn,” £8 105; * Rgorton's Thont- rical Remombrancer,” iuterlenvod with cor- rections and MB. and other additions by John Thilip Kemblo, £25 4a; * Calus Qrac- chus,” markod for rorrawntntinn £5 5n; Bhuk- spoare’s dramatic worls, & Dbiography, studics, &o., ton, £4 1083 Klni,' Jolin” “Ag You Like 1t," “ Richard IIL,” “ Houry V.,” and King Loar,” all marked for ropresontation by Mr, NMnerendy, 42 38. Tho original prompt books of * Ttomeo and Juliot,” * Corialanu,” “ Cymbelino,” &e., £2108; “'Les Myatetios do Puriu,"})rafinnlnl n copy, with autograph iogcription, A Monsiow Mnurnndg, Hommage, d'ndmirntion wineoro, Engone tue; Parig, 12 Janvioy, 18146," £8 16, ——— Roynl Shifte, A littlo history is rolated, and unid to hnve boon told by King Victor Lmmanuel himsolf. Tho Princoan Maris, duughtor of tho Empross of Ttuusin, was in’ tho drows-circlo nt tho Apollo Thontro, His Mujosty had not boon forowarnad, and was in his box, nccording to his usual ous. tom, in the most comploto neglige, As noon an ho saw her Imporial Lighness, ho boggoed tho prefeot, Comumandaut Gadda, to lond fils blacle drong-cont and whito cravat for a fow minutos, Of courso tho roquost was complied with, and His Mujosty, having put thom on in ono of tho Buloons, wentand paid his rospecta to tho Princens, ‘I'hin story in not rwltn #0 good as ono told by tho lato imporor Napoloon, 1{o mot Vivier, thy horn-player, at Vichy, and agked i to diinor. Yivior oxoused himuolf—he was traveling, and had no dross olothou, #Wo aro noarly of tho samo sizo,” snid tho Emporor, ‘‘Ask my valet, Loon, to lend you sonio of my ovanlng olotlion,” Aftor diuner tho Emporor compli monted Vivier on tho oscollont fit, adding, ‘Mind you restoro my proporty.” Vivier re- rllnd thut his honoot Intentions etopped with ho restitution of the olothes, and could no fay- ther go, Ho could not bring himsolt to restore the little rod ribbon in the button-hole, “ Koeep it," uald the Emporor, snd Vivier was gazotted & Luight of tho Logion of Honor noxt werning, _ Y 27, 1873 A LAKE TRIP. . From Chicago to Duluth and Baclk, on the * Peer- less.” TFrop Passos---" Seeing Ourselves ag Others See Us,” Amateur Artists---Human Gravitation- Personal---Journalistic. Juvenile Tourists---The Siclk.Man from Dubuque-~-The Steamer. Correspondenceaf Tha Chicago Tribune, This is tho way It camo about: Somo two months ago Iroceived a lottor from Gon. Roub. Williams, of tho Warenw Indianian (published at Warsnw, Ind.), ndvisiog me that Mr. Powall, the President of the Northorn Indiana Editorial Association, had dono mo the honor to include mo in n proposod oxoursion to Blsmarck, over tho North Paciflo Railroad, vin steamer Peerloss from Ohicago to Duluth. A provioua trip from Detroit to Ohicago, through squalls and fog, gave mo & norvous dread of the Jakes, and I was about to declino tho polite invitation of r. Powell, when a friond, who is craft-wiko, inquirod what steamer I intendod to tako, * Tho Peorloss,” was my roply. ‘‘Tho Peorloss " ho ecliood, and promptly addod ¢ * Commanded by Capt. MeIntyro. Thon you noed bave no heeitation about going. Tho Poorlosa is tho fincst stoamer on the Inken, and bor Oaptain is a splondid man, Hor wholo offl- cors and crow aro not to bo beat.” This was high praiso, and was taken with somo montal disconnt ; but I had onough confidenco in my friond's judgmont to mske up my mind to go. Particularly when, upon inquiry, I fonnd that wo would have to pay noarly round-faro rates, and I conld thus reservo the privilogo of spenking my mind if the aforo- ssid accommodation ehould prove unmorited, Liberty of specch doos not always go with freo pnases, you know. I cannot sea why, though, for thoy aro given with “ conditions,”—tho Lold- or “asguming all risks of sccidonts, and ox- prossly agrooing that tho Company shall not bo linblo, under any circumstances, for injuries,’ &c. Itisnbadrulo that doos mot work both ways; and it etands to reason that o railroad or otlier company giving o pasa should run ol risks of the truth being told. 'Tho truth novor hurts tho blamolosa, It is no plensant to have elbow- room, as tho witty Donn Piatt said whon ho wag & boy. DONN PIATT IN A BUGAR-TIOGSIEAD, Tho story goes that he bargained with a Iot of othor spalpeens to bo tho first to loso himself in tho fat eides of an empty sugar-hogshend. Tho ‘moment ho bad made good tho swoob passage, and tho othor hungry urchins crowded after, Lo struok out on either side, erying, *“ Give mo ol- Low-room! give mo elhow-room, boya!" FREE PASSES. Spenking of freo pasacn, it ia worthy of re- mark that they are oftencst abused by thoso loast worthy of holding them. It was thus ox- pluined to me by ono of the most respectablo editors {n tho present oxcursion: Ilo smd thoro woro at least half-n-dozen flrat-class business- mon who had promised to join tho In- diunn editorial oxcursion without fail, At the last they begged off, and arrangomonts Laviug boon mado for a cortain number, others woro substituted. It is tho old story of tho rich man's fonst, which is endly in- complote by not telling how ungratefully ob- streperous tho lamo, Lalt, and blind, no doubs; behaved, An o goneral thing, T was told, shippere have a grouter dread of oxcursionisto thun railrosd companics, Moro Is oxpocted of them, A pleas- ure-party cannot always bo made to undorstand thet timo is money to a stenmbont company, especially {0 o lino that doponds upon tho profits of froight instead of pnsucngor transportation. DAYATD TAYLOR. An instanco that ralbor surprised mo was cited. Yonr bofore last, n party of authors aud journalists mado tho round trip from Detroit o Duluth, Bayard Tuylor was tho most distinguishied ono of the numbor. In tho words of my lovely iformant : “¢ My husband and I bad always had the most onthusiastic admiration for Bayard Taylor, and T eannot toll yon how disonchanted we wore to find a boer-dfinking Amorican. But that was not all. Aftor making tho trip, ho wroto a lotter abusing all tho oflicers of thoe ateamor ; which, howovar, wos not a4 bad a8 o caricaturo e drev of threoolderly ladies aboard, Thuy weromaiden- Indios of culturo and refinomont, and it was & ehamo to ridicule them. The troublo was the Dbont lind not stoppod at one placo ont of the many desired. You eannot imngino the disordor thero was on bonrd. The party made all sorts of unreagonable domands, ordered thoir monls at all Liours, and bebavad generslly liko o Bot of un- ruly boys. There were oxcoptions, of course. There wore tiomo who woro porfectly ugrooablo, aud who could not concoal thoir wortification at tho bohavior of tho rest. ‘' SEEING OURHELYES A8 OTHERS REE US." As my party—if two make u party—onterod the Indies’ cabin of tho Poorloss, wo woro yery much surprised to find it overrun with musical ingteu- ments. T'he sofus and easy-chairs woro occu- pied by burloy-looking men in uniform, and thero was positively no placo to sit down, On the uflux-&fcuk it was etill worro, Other men, in Lrasg buttons and blue frook-coats, monapo- lized all of tho chairs that wore not occupied by alot of studonts, supposed to bo off on n lark, Thoy hung over tho guard, tilted lack their chairs, and apat on tho floor. Evorybody—that in, bluo and brass and the lads—spat on tho flaor, until it was disgusting boyond description, Inn fiwnp of Indien, with ukotuh-huo}m in their muds, and ap much armor a8 o dragoon wears flnu&’llnf from their belts, wns a pale-facod, blue- oyod old gontloman, with tho unmistakablo look of a “colloge-profensor, and my nttontion wag stil furthor” druwn to him by & romark ho made, to-wit : '*Some of theuo crentures on board nre Indi- ana editors,” All doubtn of his profcssion wore quickly dis- polied by scoing him gather the youths Loforo mentionod around him, opon a ‘largo tin-box, and, with botany in hand, proceod to the analysis of hnlf-n-bushel of woods. Wo saw him aftor- ward at Dotour, whore ho andhis elass lind their tout pitched on tho sido of the,hill by tho dock, He wis ag brown as a nut, and had collected all sorts of specimens, that ho wns shipping by tho barrol-full to Chiengo, AMATEUR ARTISTS, It would make s proily chaplerif I had tho art to deueribo thut bovy of skotchors, throo in number, on board. I'wo woro young and very fuir, and their offorts woro tho morest pnstimo, "tho third had passed tho first_bloom of youth, and wau somowhnt componsnted by an air of in telligonco and resolution, Sho could bo neon, at all hours, with & sketeh-book in hor Jandy wid, whow dhowas ot comw- ing from 'naturo sho wrole up iho jotirnat ito had promised hor frlonds ot parting, With an industry that would makae tho foriune of & nows-reportor. ‘Fownrds tho last of her jour- noy (she got off at Marquelts) sho submitted £ha sleotohios to the Captain and Mato, who both pronounced thom excollent, Alas! for tho loved one nt homol In hor linsto to lonyo tho bont, 8ho toft hor skotchi-bool on the broakfaut-tublo, wnd that is tho last that was soon of i, 1t musb havo fallon into tho hands of an approciative porson, As, however, tloro aro any nnmber of capital storooncopla viows of all the places of fue torent ou tho ronto, neither sho nor her friends should be inconsolablo, HUMAN GRAVITATIONS, It didnot tako long to clausify the party on Loard the Poorless,—tounting two profussors, ouo pronclior, seoro of editors, one Silvor Tand, hoalth-yeckors, aud bridal purtion, It was astons ishing Lo obsorvo how woon the conglomorato mats of humanity found its lovel. The mon in bluo and brass that wore not gentiomon got tirad of giving ovorybody to undorstand thiat thoy wero boua fido” gontlonion, loft off swaggoering, and rotirod to the fore part of tho bont. Tho gontlomou of tho Bilver liand loft off tho blue und brams, and wero noxt koen in_ quiot, social converse, or writing for. s favorito nowspapor. It required & dsy and s half to offock this . heppy result; but i wes -of Austrinn, nearly a wook bofore ronlizod thoy wonld live another day, ond minglod with tho crowd, Tho proacher was n Inn{;or timo afMlintin with Liis follow-pinnors, and nothing on m\rbfi was ablo to shako tho [:mrcasnr with's class out of his groovo, The other profongor wns alao o ministor of the Gospol, and bolonged to the lmp? numbor of bridal Sm‘tiun. In n crowd ho would havo beon not down ns a foroignor—n German reliolar, without doubt, He had n cloar- eut, handsonio faco, sot off by lon, Lalr, and tho gontle, meditative ux[;ronu on of hig coun- tonance was Intonsifled by the dovotion at all timon oxprassed for tho Innocont, lovely young brido ho was Plud({ml to lovo and churiu{x. Bho was bonutiful in more than the combination of rogular foaturos, good comploxion, and natural curla, 8ho had tho graco of culturo, and tho rare swootnoss and freshnoss of mannor givon by grnunrvnflun from rudo contact with tho world, hio was unapoilod by fasbion and untonchod by caro, Judging from apposrances, hor lino of lifo, na the suoth-sayors havo it, lins not boon #worved out of plonsnnt places. = Weo did not bo- como porsonaily acquainted untll tho vory last dnr' Dbut folt an intoroat in thom long bofore, and uolcod tho parting by tho hopo of seolng thom ‘whenovor we go to-8t. Lonis, 1t isso unusual to find & profosser and proachor in ono that is lib- oral ns woll as enrnast, and altogother compan- lolnnbln, with tho oxtra nttraction of n charming wite, PROFESROR CLARKE, Bponking of profossors, from Marquotto to Duluth wo had tho pleasuro of boing accompanied by John W. Olarko, of Washington Hoights, orlc County, My firat _improssions wera do- lightful. Ihad beon on dock taking & parting look at tho picturesquo harbor of Marquotto, and, whon T entored tho cabin, thero was a now light in it, 8o to speak, It was illuminated by & now progonco, Ousting m{y oye along tho full length of tho salon for tho causo, it rosted upon an animated faco, and clonr, sonrching, luminons eyes, that wero cnough of thomsolven to upsot tho Darwininn theory, Buclh firo and Intolligonco could nover have emulatod from n lowor order of orontion ; thoy borrow their light from tho divinity thero ia in man, Happily I did not know ho way a distingmabiod sclontist, and tho hour we paseed in convorsation was porfectly agroeablo. Ii aftorwarda hod tho 0 fortuno” to bo smcated near him on tho bridal partien dock, 08 wo mndo tho pnssage of tho Dotour River, and tho information ho gavo mo in respect to tho faco and charactor of tho country would make a charm- ing lotter, if I could give it in bis own lan- gunago. It would then want the attraction that wna givon by tho beautiful sunset, thomoon on tho lake, fhe rocoding land that he told mo WwAB Immiul like tho first viow of tho slopes of the locky Mountaivs, and the oxcitomont of passing tlirough s rivor so narrow and winding that tho boat scomed to bo always running into thosbhoro, oUR CoUNT, For vory much of our cnjoyment we are in- dobtad to Bir. Henry ¥. Loopold, of Ohleago. Ho was ncquainted ™ with most of tho ladios nboard, and was untiring in his efforts to please, Tandsome, young, and clovor, ho was dubbed tho Count by common consent, and won the title bravely, He must have been somothing to tho firm of Leopold & Austrinsn, aa his namo mado tho first, aud he hud an unclo by the namo Ttolative or not, Lo was vory agrooablo, JOURNALISTIO, Of tho editorial party, Mr. Powell, of tho La- porto Zerald, was tho most conspicuous, having tho managoment. o is o courteous and intelli- gont man, and succoeded in giving porfoct satis- faction to all parties. Ho was nccompanied by Lis wite, & handsomo and agreonble Indy. Gon. Williaws, who conduots the Ingest newspaper in Northern Indians, was nccompaniod by his daugl- tor, & wweat littlo'girl in hor toons, Then thoro wora tho Thayors, and tho Tones, aud o dozon other ontorprising nowspaper-mon, who date from Chicago 0 fur ns shopping and deponding upon tho nows go. Perhnps tho bost nowspaper- nian in tho lot is Mr, Wadseworth, who has built up a Domocratic paper in Itopublican Tn- portoe by dint of persounl indopendonce and undoviating regnrd to the local interests of Liis rondors. Brod @ farmer, ho tekes to jour- nalisw_intuitively. People’ in Chieago or olsc- whero might not sco nnything in the Argus (his papor) to admire, but evorybody in Laporte reads it, and that mnkes it 4 succoss, or what . Medill would eall **a good conmr)flpnl)ur.“ Another quiot worker, that does with diligence what his hands find to do, is Dr. Thomas, of tho Winuemne Democrat. A deop thinker aud closo obsorver, ha is o practical cditor; but ho sticks cloger to tho old Democratic landmarks than 3r. Wadsworil, who has about arri: ot the conclusion that * Principles, uot mon,” is httle 1more than an empty yannt. Dr. Thomas was sccompunied by Lis vifo, o lady of storling worth, SOUNG TOURISTH, Thoro was tho usual varioty of children on bonrd. Ono family from Chicago was n model. Tho father and mother woro uncommonly pleas- ing, nud their throo children were mervols of Jrobrioty und lntelligenco. But thoro was ono tllo follow, also from Chicago, that ran so mauy visks, aud 'was so dostitute of fear, thnt tho pusecngors oxporionced n Bonso | of dis- appointmont boewuso lo did not fall overbonrd. Thoy consod Lo oxpect it when his father romarked that ho was just that way when ho was & boy. THE RETURN. To mako theso notes as porsonal as Marlk Twain's account of the Shub, an attack of illnens provented mo from going from Duluth to Bia- marck, and I roturned on tho Peorless. 'Chero woro nob mmny passongers, aud the large stonmor Liad n deserted aud forlorn appoaranco. What we lacked in nuwmbers, however, was mrdo up in iucidont, espoecially the third day out. Thore was {fhroaten of a storm the day wo neared Marquette, and wo found that enterprising city almost waslied nway Dy o rain thnt had fallon tho night bofore. Tho water pourcd dowa tho hills in s flood, wiping out tho railroad-tracks, changing the courso of the Orinunn River, doluging the houses with water, covoring tho sidowniks with sand, tumbling houses into the river, and throatoning solid blocks of buildings with dostruction, The bay was still so disturbed that it was not ploas- ant to laud. By the timo wo slarted tho wind rose, and, 88 WO wero sortod at tho dinner-table, tho stcamer bogau to lurch from sido toside. Tho first fow swolls sont noarly every passongor to his or Lor stato-room, and tho confusion that followed was beyond description, Tho tabloy, thnt bad beon placed on castors for fair wailing, danced from oue sido of tho cabin Lo tho othor, to the utter destruction of thodishos, Tho dinner was mixed innmass on tho carpet; and chinirs, wniters, tablos, and sofad wero incxtricably confused. In lcos thau twenty minutos from tho timoe wo sat down to dinnor, the cabin was doserted by the passengora; and the waiters had succceded in turning chairs, tables, and sofas upsido down, and gathoring up the broken dighes, TILE SICK MAN FROM DUBUQUE. Tho amount of sca-sicknoss was awful. Afl of tho model party from Ohieago woro sick. First the wife, thon the children, and then the busband, who mansgoed, withal, to care for the rost. Dt tho most divarsion was furnished by Lho slel man from Dubuque. My attontion wun drawn to bim and his wifo ‘and dsughtor whon they camo abosrd ot Dululh. Ench one of them carried & lemon hand, and _ thole whole conversation was of sor-sicknoss. Io waa o groat, big follow, with n woff, fair faco, that would have boen handsomo {f it Lad not looked so dintressod. Tho firut shock to bis norves wan whou the steamer changed its courso in tho wind, 1o was abuo~ lutely paralyzed with fenr, and bis wifo oxelaim- od, n# #ho wrung hor huods ¢ “Iamnot scared, but my husband Is so afrakd of tho wator, He did not want to como | 1o did not want Lo come 1" Her foars wore quioted, but thore was no such thing ns oalming the mat from Dubnquo. Tho Inst scon of Lim, ho was struggling through tho oabin with o lifo-prosorvor fnhia haud, implor- ing the waitora or * somebody, for tho lovo of God,” Lo show him how totioit on, 'The poor waitora had as muiok ug they could do to right up the eabin, nond a suddon” qualm of the stom- ach lod him to oboy his wifo, who was shrieking to il from tho stato-room to come to bod, Whal pasoed within that rotvoat is wncrod; bnt, nftar midnight, whon tho wind bad subsided, he olimbed to the Lurricanc-decis to ask tho weathor- roports of tho Mato, who, in_his tantalizing wuy, nesurad him it had not boon much of a storm, and would not acmit that it was over, “I'ho noxt moruing, ho was veon going around tho nards with & rod Dlanket around him, ut ho would mnovor Lave boon takon for a Comanche brave. It is mafo to #ny that he did mnot enjoy & momont's ponco whila ho ntayed on bLonrd, Tho mnoxt night, ho did not undross, and spont the waary haurd on a sofa in tho Indios’ cabin, which wub intonsoly hot. 1lian conntenanco was a modol of dospair ult tho noxt dl{l{y' and that night, at 12 o'olock, ha bundlad of tho hoat_ut Ailwaukeo to take tho cars for his native hoath, A good doctor from l'ittsburgh took ue quito to task for Inughing at him, and explainod that the foar of wator in his oaso was constitutionsl, o was as bravo as any mun in overy other roapcct. Wo did not say tho doctor nay, but wo had our own thoughts about it TIE PEERLEAS, In all our trip we found no reason to discredit tho recommendation which Lad been givon us of tho Loorloss, Bho i roally a splondid stoamer, and tho entorprising firm of Loopold & Austrian havo ovory ronson to congratulata themaelvot uqon thoir rolootion of officers and mon, Ablot oflicors and n botter-diciplined crow aro not to Do found, tho wido Aona ovor. Evorythin. mover liko clock.worlt, and thoro la a Pnrmct abyonce of bustlo and profanity. It ia nok too much 1o sy, in fino, that tho steamor I8 poerlors in fact at woll as Iu namo. LAuna Reax, —_— IMPERIALISM IN CHINA, I0ts Minjenty the Emporor During Xis Visit to the IRoyal Tomb nnd After. | fwardn, Pekin Correspondence of the Shanghae Courfer. A fow daya ngo it was gonorally roportod that, whon tho Emporor was loaving tho eapital to visit tho Imporial tombs, ko had asked, as ho traversod tho dosortod stroots, in whioh overy Qdoor and window was closed, whoro all tho poo- plo woro? Ho waa told by bLis attondant Min- intors that thoe oyes of tho vulgar had pgvor beon honorod to gozo on tho faco of hn tow beatified Imporial ancostors, to which -she ‘* Bolitary Man " ropliod somowhat irrovarontly that hio ** did not co why tho Peoplo should not 800 him,” Tho Lint waa considored enfMolont to warrant the {ssuing of orders againat hia return that tho straots wore not to bo oloared of people whon tho Imperial cortogo passod along them, ond tho fnot that thoso ordors woro carrled ont givos conflrmation to tho original rumors, Acoordingly, on the day officislly aanonncoed for the Emperor's ro-ontry into Pokin (tho Bth April), in company with somo othor foroignors, I sought a likely placa of obsorvation, Proceod ing along the expeoted lino of procossion, we found tho stroots crowded with an unueual con- courso of mandarins and soldiors, and ot longth tho hoad of the Imporial pro- cession appoared; & company of soldiors, onch with what seomed to bo a matohlock slung naoross his back, covered with yollow cloth. Bo- hind camo nn umbrollia of yellow ailk, fringod with gold, carried botwoen two mon on horso- back, Ataebort Interval cnmo n cavaleado of nlxllozon :r #0, carrying speara tinted into tho all-porvading Imperinl yollow, and hav tho top o tufe of urlmnu;-dynd' la, foatenod b which o tigor's tail hung down—tho intontion being, no doubt, to suggost their courngo, though tho result’ was somowhat differont to & foreign obsorver., Thon eame mandarine to the numbor of ahout fifly, nearly all of tho crystalor bluo button grado of raulk, These woro nrmed with hows and arrows, and rode in o most promiscuons 6ityle; and with tho procoding tigora' tails, trang- formod tho whola array 1nto o burlesquo, Immedintely tbohind this mob of officialy, 8o sadly ropresontativo of tho state of things ovor which ho has begun to proside, camo tho Em. poror, iu & chair coverod with yellow gatin, and carrlod by elght bonrers, woaring the usual crimson uniform dottod over with yotlow ntchos, thoir turbans fastonod with® yol. ow inssols, Immodiatoly opposite whoro our party stood, .n halt was called, to enablo tho chiair coolies to bo relioved by others, who had como along on horsoback, This gave us tho opportunity of having a deliborato look nt tho Emporor. His Mafinnty wag nsleop, Ho looked tuch oldor than ho ronlly is, Bomo going tho longth of Bnyh)g Lo lookod 1iko ‘& men of 40; 1is faco is long and pointed, and has o worn ox- prossion ; in fact, ono of our party esid ho has a dissipated laok, ~But, of courso, & man doos not look his boet when ho iu aslcop and just roturn- ing from a journoy. Butif 1fiw Majosty renlly wished to seoaud boucon by his poople, his slumbors woro unsoasonable. During tho pause occasionod by tho chango of ohnir coolios n mnn who Lad Somo griovanco mado & rush to got near the Emporor's chuir to present a polition, 1lowas, howovor, enught, chnined, beaton, and then carricd off to prison. Aftor ' tho Tmporial chair n bady of cavalry closed this soction of tha procession. Subsoquontly tho Empress-Dowagor pasaod along, carried in n yollow chair, followad by tha Empress-3othor, Whoso ehalr 'waa groon, oth having oight boarars, and boing escorted by tha samo attondanco of bow-and-arrow mandaring and tiger's-tailod spearmon ns His Majeuty. At a shiort intorval eamo a long array of oigh- teon yellow-covered carts, said to contain the concubinos of tho Iato and prosont Emporors, though some peoplo said tho carta wore ompty, and that the concubines had been gont round to o difforont ontrance of tho palaco. Dut what a talo of malndministration and misory had those aightoen yollow carts fo tolll - Eight daga bo- fora thoso wagons had loft tho city bright and now and woll-appointed ; now thoy pasked slong broken ond Dbattored, bospattorod over with mud, and tugged slowly alon, by an inadoguate nuimbor of wrotched, siarved ponios. The oxplanation givon was that largo numbor of tho pouies had starvod on the way, aud villagors andsoldiers iad to bo omploy- od to aagist thoso that remained to draw tho wagons hack into the city. Wo saw somo of the carts with only ono wrotched muloattached to jt, its Inols of traction power being mado up by coolics, whoso dirty clothes, and trousers rolled up over their thighs, and logs plentifully doubed with dried patches of mud, looked anything but fmporial. Tho Chinoso say that 10,000 horaes woro collected by tho autlioritlos and loft Pekin for tho tombs: buk commigsariat arrangements woro so defective that this immonse cavaleade spoadily oxhausted all Hu‘ilpllcs on tho routo, aud thon largo num- bors died of starvation. To add to tho wrotch- odnoss, tho frogt broke up and the rain cama Gown o duy or two aftor thoy sarted, and the road becamo one continuous quagmiro, Porhinps it is junt as woll that the youthful monarch should have, porforco, loarned a lLittlo of things ng thoy ar gzl THE WIDOW OF NAIN. “Tho only son of Lfa mother, and sho was & widow." Tho dust on thelr ssndals lay hoavy and white, Thetr gurmenta woro damp it Hio tssa o o night, Thelr liot foot awuary, and throbbing with pain, Aathoy cuterad tho gates of tne City of Nain, But, lo} on the pathway a sorrowing throng Tregsed, mournfully chanting a funoral noug, Aud 16 5 sad monotony, coutieless aud slow, Tho voico of & woman eamo ladon With woo. Whatneed, stricken mothors, to tell how ahe wopt 7 Yo read by the vigils that sorrow liath kept, Yo kuow, by tho travail of anguish and puin, Thio desolate griof of the widow of Nain, An howho wns firat of the wayfaring men Adynuced, the nuto burden iaa lowoercd, and then, As i tonchod tho whilto gravo-clotia that covered 'th hier, TTho boarers shrank back, but the mother drew near. Tor snow-rprinkled tresses hnd loosened thelr strands, Great tenrs fell unchecked on tho tightly-claspod ands 3 But hushed tho wild aam.lmi‘, and atifled her cries, As Jesus of Nozaroth Ufted hin oyes. Eyea wot with compassion as slowly thoy fell; Lyca potent ta soften grivt 's tremulous swall, Ai, sweotly and tondorly, “Weop not,” ho suid, And turncd to thio passionless face of tho dead, ‘Whito, white gloamed ufs forohead, looso rippled tha I, Bronze-tlited, o'er temples transparently fair; And a glory stols up from tho carth to tho skics, As lio callod to tho Voiceless one, Youug ma, arisot* Tho hard, rigil ontlinea grow fervid with breath Tho dull eyes «:-losod from tho miduight of deat] Wenp, weep, baopy mother, and fall st his feot | Lifo'y palo, blightdd promiss grow bopoful aud swoet Tho moruing Lad passed, and tho middoy hoats urnod ; 9nco more to tuo pathway ho waytarars turmed. Tho conqueror of kligs lind conquored agaln ; Thore waa Joy in tho Louso In tho widow of Naln, ~—Cuthotio World, o P S ‘I'he Poycholoygy of Porpoises. " In n gonoral way the psychology of porpoises would bo rogarded au n rathor unpromising flold for obsorvation. Yot a writer in Nature contro- vorts tho position takon by Prof. Huxley, that though tho brain of tho d[mrqolsc 18 quito won~ dorful for mass and for dovelapment of gorobral convolutions, it is hard to beliove that the cren- turo Is troubled with any oxcoss or intollect. “ho writor imaginos, on the othor hand, that Lo fins suftloiont rorson for croditing porpolses with somothing of tho intelloct uttributed to thom in tho story of Arion, and quotes his obacrvations mado on & voyogo to Conatantinoplo in proof, whon tho ship was lruqunnu{ bocalmod amid shonls of thoso ereatures. * Tho sailors assured mo," ho #ays, “that no sharke woro iu tho noighborhood whilo the pnr[\;lunn woro noar, and I frequontly plunged overboard and swam to- ward the porpolsos. Tlioy usunlly surroundod me in a uearly ciroular shoal or company, and direotod towards thoir unusual visitor anamonut of attention which I may vonture to digmfy with tha titlo of ourionity. - ‘hoir romraiery moou- sitios prooluded any long-continued seruting , but, aftor dashing ujwarda for_ thoir ountomei sy snort, thoy cominonly rosumod tholr fuvestiy k- tions, somietimes appronohing uncomfortaloly near, and thon darting off to the oircwmforefuca of {ho attondant circlo. I om not sblo to\do- goribo tho oxprossion on the feafures of s plor- polso, but my rocollootion of that of tho oyes of iy swimming companiona I8 vory different from what I havo sinco #oon on tho largo vucant orh‘u of aquarium coddshos, ’