Casper Daily Tribune Newspaper, January 22, 1917, Page 6

came ROE Paris Has So Ordered, and of Course American Women Will Obey. PETTICOAT A DEAD. LETTER Uniess of the Thinnest Material, It Will Not Be Worn—Outside Blouse - Grows in Popularity—Ribbon to Be Used as a Substitute for Embroidery. ‘New York.—Every cable brings from Paris the news that the skirts of 1917 will be narrow. All those in the watch towers have proclaimed the coming of this enemy to full skirts since last Sep- tember, but only in limited segments of society was the news acted upon. The manufacturers had the material for full skirts, the wholesale houses turned them out by the thousands, and it was only left to the exclusive women and their dressmakers to cut down the width and lengthen the hem, Even now there are skirts that are slightly gathered to the waistline, and these are coming from some of the best houses in Paris, but they are dropped over a lower skirt that is quite narrow. No matter what the fullness, every skirt clings to the fig- ure, as it did in the end of the eight- eenth century. Petticoats are dead, unless they are of chiffon, crepe de chine or jersey silk. The question which will soon con- front every woman is whether she wishes to change the silhouette of her skirt or go on wearing it until it is ready to be discarded. One cheerful feature of the return to the slim sil- houette is that a full skirt can be cut into a narrow one with ease. The Outside Blouse. That garment known as the outside blouse, which is merely a_ short, twelfth century chemise, has grown quite important and popular since the large shops copled the exclusive French models and placed them with- in the reach of the average purse. The new ones started at $85; you can now buy them for §5 or $10 In those shops where vast quantities of gar- ments are sold. They still remain at $30 In the shops that are neither de- partmental nor exclusive. Women like them. They are more becoming than the white shirtwaist and they do not make demands on one’s purse fer laundry. They have a thin lining of their own, which is a boon to the woman who has neither the time nor the money to arrange a vast variety of expensive underwear which shows through a thin white blouse. Skirts of Other Materials. These outside blouses are worn with skirts that are not of their material or color, so this makes for economy and comfort at once, So far, they are in chiffon embroidered in silk floss or bullion thread, but there are some very smart ones coming in colored satins, The sleeve is half length or long, but the latter should be chosen for every | occasion except one’s own dinner table, The seck is cut In the Renaissance fashion; in fact, the extraordinary high collar, standing or turned over, has given way to the flat, twelfth cen- tury neckline, This is. cut In many w . The dressmakers do not hold one down to the veritable Renalssance. Jenny has taken up the Italian decolletage for the daytime, which is cut in the form of a delta. A new gown which she sends over, which was copied from a Rembrandt portrait and which is of black panne velvet with girdle and arm pleces of black satin, has no or- namentation at the neckline. The vel- vet is cut to the base of the neck at the back, then out on each side to the armpits and goes in a straight line across the chest below the collarbone, It may be safely said that the thou- sands who are continuing to wear the neck arrangement of the last three years because it is becomlog and com- fortable, are not in fashion, The vast industries in this country connected with the manufacturing of neckwear will surely set up a howl of. protest HIGHEST OF NEW STRAW HATS. STREET CAPE COAT. It Is of Gray Cloth, Finished With a Wide Band of Ermine at the Hem— The Deep Shoulder Cape Is Cut in| One With the Coat and Drops to the Hem at the Uack. —7-~-—rrrrrerereraPOrO0OoOoOornrEeOrer>—™™ if this new style of the collarless neck makes strong headway. Ribbon Instead of Embroidery. There is a rumor that France and America in combination will present ribbons as a substitute for embrold- ery. It is possible that America is the father to this thought. The manufac- turers in this country have ardently wished for definite fashions from Paris that would feature miles of ribbon used in any way possible to cover the su -e of clothes, The demand for ribbon has been worked up in Paris some extent through Amer 1 expor® ers who represented factories that could turn out ribbon in this yuntry, but so far all attempts have failed to produce a real call for this kind of or- namentation, A minor fashion which has come into being and which calls for embroidery is the ornamented glove. A few wom- en have been foolish enough to wear hand-painted ones recently at after- noon affairs, but there will always be women foolish enough to do anything. The glove which is embroidered in a simple way will be at the height of style, because America has learned how to do it with the machine, instead of by hand. (Copyright, 1916, by the McClure Newspa- per syndicate.) COPIED FROM OTHER DAYS Present Styles Are a Mixture of the Best of the Known Fashions of the Past. The long-ago days and the styles worn then have been the Inspiration of many of the fashions of today. Modern dress recalls the Moyen age long waistline, the Victorian shoulders and the picturesque hat of Louis XVI. The pokebonnet, once more the style, recalls days gone by, while the apron, now put into the practical use in many of the modern dresses, re- minds one that back in the days of Mary Stuart the apron formed a part of the dress. Then, however, it was ornamented and of fine fabric rather than useful, as at present. The quaint fur shoulder wraps now so prevalent look much like the shoul- der capes of 1840 and fall off the shoulders in much the same way. Likewise Japanese and Chinese influ- ences are very noticeable in many of the modern styles, Our styles taken as a whole are a most pleasing combination of the best of the styles of the past and the most interesting of the modern tendencies, FASHION’S FADS Eggplant-colored satin is richer thin black, and has all the quiet distinction of black. The girdle of a charming gown is crushed and rather wide and tied In a large bow at the side. Gray velvet trimmed with seal and buttons to match the velvet describes a charming suit. Underwear need no longer be in sim- ple white, but Colors are used freely; nile green is the newest. Rose-colored chiffon draped over a foundation of silver cloth makes an evening gown of rare beauty. A transpnrent hat has an edge of skunk, the black net of the brim being embroidered with golden flowers. The finer skirts for large women are usually smooth over the hips, though apt to be full below them. Satin Is Not for the Very Stout. A man who has devoted ie tast few years to making clothes for the typical American matron, that is the plump woman, has come to the decision that satin is not her fabric. All of the ereeps, the rough texture cloths, vel- vet, but not the stiff “stand alone” variety, and of course brocades, are adapted to her fn all the various com- binations, but satin with its glistening and metallic surface but accentuates her generous proportions, ° THE CASPER DAILY TRIBUNE Season’s Skirts Must Be Narrow! GERMANS ARE ALWAYS READY TO SALUTE Prisoners Instructed as to An- swers to Be Given to Cap- tors’ Questions. SHOOTS TWO RED CROSS MEN Wounded German. Who Committed Outrage to Be Court-Martialed When He Recovers—Officer Gives Bed to Prussian. By JOSEPH W. GRIGGS. (Correspondent of the New York World.) British Headquarters in France.— There is no underestimating the Ger- man soldier at the British front. There has been considerable underestl- mating of him by laymen in London and other parts of England. There are German cowards, German scoundrels and brave Germans to be met with in this war, Judging from the talks which I have bad with British of- ficers and men at the front. In a hospital which I have been en- abled to visit and talk, with some of the wounded German Iifinates there is one redheaded German who Is being nursed back to health who is charged with having shot both the Red Cross men who had dressed his wounds on | the battlefield just"a moment or two before he ts asserted by a number of witnesses to have taken their lives. “He will be court-martialed later,” was the calm declaration of the offi- cer in charge of the hospital. We have others here who are ve nt fellows. You may talk with of them.” I entered a ward where a few days before a number of Saxons had raised such a rumpus about a Prussian officer in their midst that, for his safe- ty, he was removed to another but. Several of them spoke English, and they aided me in my talks with others. Salute on All Occasions. In the corner of the room nearest | where I entered was a big blond fel- low, handsome and reflectively silent. He was a Prussian, He raised his hand to the salute. de any “It's extraordinary the way those fellows ure always ready to salute, no matter under what clreumstances,” said the officer of the camp. The Prussian could not speak English, and, my German being negligibie, I crossed the room to where one of the Germans who could speak English lay. I told him my nationality. brightened, and he said: “I'm from Hamburg. I've never been to America, but I've had much dealing with American chemical concerns in SAVED FROM PEDDLER’S CART Veteran Pet of the New York Mounted Police Retires to Quiet Farm. New York.—“Loughlin,” after twenty- three years of faithful service in the police department of the city of New York, will not end his career drawing His face a peddler’s cart. As a result of the kindness of E. P.-Crissman, a retired real estate dealer, and ofthe “Bide-n- Wee” home, “Loughlin” will spend the remainder of his life on a quiet farm in Connecticut, the property of his last “cop” rider, John L. Wendell. “Loughlin” is twenty-nine years old. During his twenty-three years of police service he has stopped many runaways tnd done his duty “like a gentleman.” In all police parades he was the mest admired horse, taking many prizes, For the past six years the police de- partment’s vyeterinaries have looked askanve at the old horse, but the plead- ings of the mounted friends of the horse have kept him from the auction block. At last the final ukase went forth and the old horse was put up for sale at auction, The most miserable man at the sale was Mounted Policeman John L, Wen- dell, who for three years has daily rid- den “Loughlin” over his Central park detail. His sadness changed to Joy, however, when the auctioneer an- nounced that charitable New Yorkers would buy in the old horse and when he asked as a personal favor that bid- ders refrain from bidding on the horse. “Loughlin” was “knocked dow at The photograph, taken just after the old horse became his propecty, shows Patrolman John L. Wendell and “Loughlin.” New York, Chicago, Philadelphia and Baltimore.” I asked him where he had been fighting when wounded, and he re plied: “On the Somme front. I wes wounded In fighting near Thiepval. I have been fighting at different parts of the western line for eighteen months, and nearly ull the time against Cana- dians and Australians. They ere fine fighters; the Canadians are fine sol- diers.” All Well Fed. In another part of the ward lay two German soldiers. One of these had been severely wounded and it was feared one of his legs would have to be amputated. His face was thin, of- fering a contrast to most of the pa- tients, who were prospering ~n the liberal allowances of food which they received. But he made a motion as if to salnte, which was copied by the of- ficer In the next cot, a short man with Vandyke beard and youthfully florid cheeks, ‘ # nurse who had spent considerable time in America was in charge of this ward, and she moved about among them as sympathetically as if treat ing the wounded of her own race. It has been found that many pris oners, wounded or otherwise, who are captured, have received instructions regarding answers which they should make to their captors. Among the lower classes of the Germaus there is & widespread beliaf that their cap- ture by the British will be rewarded with tortures. One of the most tnteresting stories which I heard about Prussian pride was related to me by a British colonel. He said that a Prussian officer had been captured, and, preparatory to his being sent to a regular camp with oth- ers, was invited to share the mess quarters ,with several British officers. He refused to sit down with them at the table. Later, he complained that he should have fitting quarters in which to sleep, In the meantime one of the British officers had voluntarily given up his bed to the man and in- tended spending the night on some blankets on the floor. When this incident became known to the Prussian his complaining stopped, his features relaxed and he burst Into tears. INFANTRY ATTACK Zesult of Forty-Five Years’ Train- ing Thrown Into Scrap Heap by French Army. NOW MOVE IN OPEN ORDER Neglected Lessons of the South Afri- can War Are Recalled—Com- panies in France Now Op- erate as Separate Units. French Front—The result of 45 years’ infantry training has been thrown on to the scrap heap by the French army. At the beginning of the war the French infantry, like that of all pther continental nations, marched shoulder to shoulder to the attack. Soon, how- ever, the power of the very numerous machine guns with which the Germans were provided—outnumbering ct least four times those of other armies— brought about the adoption of more open formations and recalled the les- sons of the South African war, which had been neglected. Change Their Tactics. After the battle of the Marne, when the Germans dug themselves into deep trenches, the French found it impos- sible to carry out successfully any in- fantry attack in the formations until then In use without losing a number of men disproportionate to the advan- tage gained. They increased the num- ber of their machine guns, but those of the Germans were placed in posi- tions which enabled them to sweep away any frontal attack even before it had been properly developed. At the present no infantry officer of the old school would recognize an in- fantry unit going into action, so much has everything been changed, The Associated Press correspondent was present recently at a demonstra- tion of the new infantry formation at na school. Instead of, as formerly, a battalion belng composed of so many hundreds of men armed merely with riffes and bayonets and intrenching tools and dependent on artillery to clear the way for it during an advance, the battalion is now a little army per- fectly equipped for offense and de- fense and able at all times to take care of itself without any assistance * IS REVOLUTIONIZED except in the case of an attack on a fortress or strongly fortified fleld work. _ Not only the battalion but each com- pany is able to act independently, and the various smaller units are so composed that when acting together they form a complete whole without any confusion. Hand grenadiers, rifle grenadiers, marksmen with automatic rifles, bom- bardiers with bombs and ordinary in- fantrymen with rifle and bayonet com- pose each unit. The specialists have companions in action to carry their ammunition and able to replace them in case they sustain a casualty, while every man in the section, even the simple rifleman, is trained to do one of the special tasks. TO MARRY AMERICAN ARTIST re Miss Iris Tree, daughter of Sir Her- bert Tree, the great English actor, who is to marry Curtis Moffat, the Amer- fean aftist. The wedding will take place in New York in a short time. Dog Is “Property.” Atlanta, Ga.—To kill a man's mon- grel dog Is to unlawfully take away his property, according to a decision of the court of appeals. The lower court had held that a dog was not “property.” _ FRENCH MOTOR MACHINE DIGS TRENCHES ie 43,000 persons employed in the Swiss hotels, it seems strange that only 80,000 are Swiss, Red Cross Bag Blue makes the Iaundress happy, makes clothes whiter than snow. All good grocers. Adv. Government Aids Turkish Farmers. The Turkish government has made a special appropyation of $1,980,000 to be used for the purchase of seed grains for needy Turkish farmers in the Turkish dominions, A MINISTER’S CONFESSION Rey. W. H. Warner, Myersville, Md., writes: “My trouble was sciatica. My back was affected and took the form ef lumbago. I also had neuralgia, cramps in my mus- cles, pressure or sharp pain on the top of my heat, and nervous dizzy spells. I had oth ersymptoms show- ing my _ kidneys were at fault, so I took Dodd's Kidney Pills, They were the means of saving my life. I write to say that your medicine ‘restored me to _ perfect health.” Be sure and get “DODD'S,” the name with the three D's for dis- eased, disordered, deranged kidneys; Just as Rev. Warner did, no similarly named article will do.—Ady, China will teach paper making in a government school. Balsam wood is the lightest of ell lumber. THE HIGHEST QUALITY MACARONI 36 Page Recipe Book Free SKINNER MFG.CO., OMAHA, U.S.A. AARGEST MACARONI “ROUGH ONRATS ’Diesciecr isend ‘A GRIPPE 2 Ask for and Get ___ aw coated Pea. ponent 2808 ‘at am. Oot 20D, Denver Directory MACHINERY _ New and Used BUY, SELL or TRADE — Send for list The Morse Bros. M. & S. Co. 1732 _Wazee St. Denver, Colo. STONES SE a