The Bismarck Tribune Newspaper, September 6, 1919, Page 10

Very early Jast spri Pertinen tPoin ters for Having sensed the independent spir- jt with which they have to deal, the tailors and manufacturers have de- creed moderate styles for the fall and winter which are fair enough and will no doubt be accepted generally. Our street skirts will be ankle length, or shorter, and they will cut to give plen- ty of comfort in walking. Separate skirts, by the way, of tweed cheviot, yelours or heavy silk will be worn with dark, embroidered blouses under the new straight coats of soft black leather. Some of these skirts will be knife pleated. Coats will be long and slim, and numbers of them will have huge arm- holes. Buttoms, braiding and cording will be popular trimmings, collars will be high and the most of them will roll. We will be tucked and pocketed and ssed up in both coats and wore or less like paper dolls. The final some of them, yet as said before there is a strong tendency to a narrow skir- ted coat with vé deep urmholes and a collar of the shirred material or of fur. O@ fur coats there is much said elsewhere. But: the general trend in cloth ones shows that in the coat ve wore last year we cannot go far. wrong, for the new lines are not so radical but that we. can remodel them a bit snd conform to the current demand. Dolmans, dominant notes of late win- ter and spring fashions, will still be with us ‘this fall, but it is not prom- ised that their popularity will weather the winter. As with suits, bright col- ors will lead; we will see all shades of brown, bright reds.and various blues and greens,-even in coats for daytime wear. «The separate blouse is no longer an a’suit.to wear with -it. Prices on the most delictable ones think nothing of raising themselves to three figures, in- deed many of them are far and above the hundred dollar mark. If one isn’t an adept with the needle or hasn’t a stand-in with a buyer or something, one is just plain out of luck, that’s all. After a look at the glass cases ond the royal. blouses inside, however, ibe average woman decides that she can sew. and WIL: NOT be put out a dainty waist by a price tag. ‘She pro- ceeds to evolve a.creation which does her eredit and elicits ohs and ahs from reredulous friends. Thus does she a few pennies for the new kitchen linoleum or a vacuum cleaner as the ease may be. For this clever woman there are given here a few descriptions which‘may be copied at comparatively low cost and; with marvelous luck. shown for winter wear in lovely..print- By Courtney Colquitt ed silks which. require little trim- ming. The trend of the styles is near enough to collared effects that if col- lars are more becoming they. may be added and we can still know we are in the mode. For morning wear with the tailored suit nothing is prettier than a straight coolie blouse of crepe de chine or Canton crepe, chosen in a bright ‘shade and trimmed with a simple chain stich or braiding. A. delightful affair is a waist of ecru net over a lace-trimmed. bodice of the same. The waist should have a shirred belt of the net which is draivn up along the edges with colored ribbon run through casings. The im- portant item in making any blouse is te be sure of a good shoulder line and properly set sleeves. These net blouses are apt to sag anyway, so they may insets’ of fine embroidery and ecru lace insertion, The colored ribbon which trimmed the belt was seen in small bows at the neck and wrists also. A blouse of dark blue chicon ¢loth had a square neck finished in braided band’ which was cut in one with-a novel bib-like arrangement which hung over the skirt and Was edged in bril- liant bead fringe. Ad infinitum could be reports! on the lovely afternoon frocks some of: which ure elaborate enough to wear — with Jacy hats for restaurant or dimer parties. Velvet combined with chiffon and silk mousseline, satin in’ lovely rich shades and the inevitable crepe georgette are among the favored fab- rics, and the somber dress which was quite the vogue la season is giving away to those of gay hue, red being one of the colors most favored -by de- it, bits of real lace are used on vests tiny straight sleeves of pastel chiffon and a many petaled tunic of the same completes an adorable whole. The chief charm of these flower frocks is that they are unlined and unboned. They allow absolute freedom in danc- ing and give a youthful impression which is very desirable but tricky if one is beyond the debutante pale. To wear stays "is to place oneself in line for the shelf, for‘it is hopelessly out of fashion to sive ‘the barest impres- sion or stiffness. ' Those who havn't the figure had better begin physical culture. - For dinner or istoall dances the frock of shot silk, made very simply. is coinsidered quite smart. The sleeve- Jess and V-necked Blouse should have -no ‘trimming unless it be a bracelet or two of glass bead$ attached to the _ ks and fronts’ will be @@junct; it is quite.a distinct person- Collarless chemise blo which ‘be fitted rather close! To return to signers. Simplicity of line, room. to fymhole and ver ight and aie and any fuln at Uity. “To: own: an impeccable blouse saw euch happy popularity in the sum- the ore under di: ion, it had a ja- step comfortably are two high lights ; ain, The ree ote te aly eatin the il £0 to our hips, so that we will look ‘one must'needs-Wonder if one can have mer are. still-on. the up-wave, being bet front.and a teeny vest which had and: wherever there is an excuse for full and draped, !'and_ should have either shallow yoke or a gathered v1 when the last rumblings os aban Byes winter, Bet thee nad hardly been Summary of the situation is. that the and for infinitesimal collars, Gowis ‘pafting six inches below the waist, The stienced, Paris the brave, Paris the un- OUtline will be along classic” lines, are made without hook or snap, de- finishing touches dre supplied by a guenchable, flamed up with a perfect riot of new styles, strange colors and weird: silhouettes. The world’s great- est designers each proclamed his idea of the new era fashions, and each launched a hopeful number of their upon the boulevards, Am- s watched, purchased wa: ily and returned forthwith to have their heterogeneous assortment of modes accepted or rejected by the ulti- mate consumer. ‘American designers put a finger in the pie on their own aecount, and proclaimed their idea of what the next outline of milad, ure would be. So it went. Fashion magazines teemed with conjectures, even with positive prophecies, and dress designers threw up their hands and wondered. A distinct le wave has always followed every other war, and by all laws this one should have created its own positive following, But the designers reckoned without the women, who have found too much comfort in the war workers’ uniforms and the sane dress of the past few seasons. True, they owe it to the re- turning warriors to look their daint- jest and prettiest always, but they have discovered that it can be done otherwise than by following the whims of a few. while it may be said that for flappers they will be a little more along the classy. For the woman who desires long lines, I have in mind a style of suit which is being shown in many varia- tions and which will delight her heart. The suit which I thought especially pretty had a long shaped panel to the knees both front and back, which over- laid two side panels hanging to the rt hem. These side pan- ily braided. A_ rather wide shawl collar edged in Krimmer hed the coat, and the sleeves which were quite long and snug were trimmed in handmade button holes and self-covered buttons. This it was in one of the new bright brown shades and with it was shown a sur- plice blouse of canary satin bound in brown braid. > @ The slim straight lines of youth were evident in a suit of castor vel- enrs with strips of the cloth resemb- ling box pleats attached to the deep yoke with tiny arrowheads, and fas- tened invisibly at the belt and hem. A notched collar and a narrow belt slip- ped through a buckle of the goods gave a snappy effect to the coat, and the plain skirt had a wide crushed girdle. Separate coats are more voluminous, For Every Occasion The hunger for music has a way of stealing upon us at the most unexpected moments./ Music is a matter of moods, and moods know no time-table. They do not wait upon the rise of the curtain at the opera or the appearance of the concert star. At any hour may come your need for music’s comfort. ‘And the answer is al- ways ready in the home where there isa Victrola. Music sung or played by Victor exclusive artists—the greatest artists in all the world. A Demonstration will Convince “TUNUP” pending on the art of their making for their holding together. With most of us it is better, however, to ‘depend more on more stable forms of 'fasten- ing than to have such a simple, beau- tiful trust in a knot or two. Evening clothes will be more gaudy than ever in coloring. We will once more shake out our metal cloths. and renovate them so they will look fitting under our neW overdresses of chiffon, mousseline de soie or malines. ‘These sheer fabrics are embellished with se- quins, festoons of silk flowers with- out stammens or stems, or with’ color- ful embroidery. Quite good will be the draped frocks of satin or’ shot silk, which are made quite simply. Ai new idea is the petal dress, than which there is no prettier conception of the modiste’s art as it concerns the young girl. A straight slip of satin with a sleeveless blouse forms the foundation. : A round-necked gilet. and crushed girdle and 2 bunch of silk ficwers. OHIO RAILROADER HAS 1 BEEN ON ‘JOB 52 YEARS Toledo, O., Sept. 8—When EB. W. Purrell stepped off his train in Colum- bus'a few days ago’ he completed fifty- two years of railroaling, Purrell, now ‘70, ‘had been in service 52 years and for the last 36 way a conductor on the’ Hocking Vallty between Toledo and Columbus, * He began railroading at the age of 48 as a brakeman on the Lake Shore & Michigan Souther running between Toledo and Chicag.Three years later he'was made passenger conductor serv- ing in that capacity for ten years. For the next two yéars he was yard- master at Toledo forthe Pennsylvania. Special Exhibit All Week Brown and Beayer. os EXTRA SPECIAL Just unpacked forty Hats, showing’ the 3 H New York vogue in trimmings such a a ‘orney, Coque Feathers, Burnt Vulture‘and Ostrich, | ; “SEE OUR TABLE DISPLAY: | STREET HATS 8 OF MISS MARY BUCHHOLZ |. | - ‘4 MILLINERY 1 Opposite Van Horn Hotel A cata Bemniladys pharesh You A matchless selection of highest “quali “Velour; Hatters’ | A Foe may, want it—she will find at oul apelin anasto Hitast, ith Avenue fl : her milliner’s, those of the better class—just AAS crushed 1 the FISKHAT that meets her need. Sold On Easy Terms Velvets. All the popular colors, including soft shades of a Always dominating in style, whether a severe tailored model or an elaborate dress creation, the Fiskhat is selceted by those women, to whom the best is the usual. And the quality and workmanship, too, are fitting this creator of millinery vogues. ‘NIELSEN'S MILLINERY 420 BROADWAY Just received a splendid new lot of Georgette Crepe Waists You take no chances when you buy here. Bismarck, N. D.