Bemidji Daily Pioneer Newspaper, September 9, 1921, Page 8

PAGE TWO THE BEMIDJI DAILY PIONEER iy r—— oods in_Autumn Xodes By~ Marjorie. Hewe Dixon 00DS and modes—how inextrica- lvlgnml to wrap about one’s throat, to bly intertwined! The feminine mood—its name is Legion. The au- tumn mode, is it not also Legion?! Verily. For ‘cach hour of the day, each separate occasion demands its made—and within the mode lic count-| less variations of the mood. Variations, yes, thank goodnes: For a woman preserves her individu ality as she would her pearly teeth. Each fair creature demands the smart mode that is her self-expression. And she will not be stereotyped. Self-determination is not to be, seized upon by diplomats, to become their exclusive phrase. It has just as vital a meaning to the eternal fem- inine, and having once perceived it, she is not likely to let it go. What has autumn in store for this| marvelous modern woman? In what manner will the intrica- cies, aye, the subtleties of her mood become expressed? There are fur collnrcd tailleurs coats for the out-of-doors. When her desire seeks the qpen air, the shop- ping excursion, the long walk, she will resort to these. There are street dresses for the earlier fall, before the weather turns cold. Thcre are many, ! many pretty costumes for her after-| noons, indoors, whether she enter-| tains or seeks amusement in the homes of her friends. And loveliest of all are the exotic evening dresses, the tremulous, sub- tle or gayly joyous party frocks. For these happy times she need not con- sider subdued tints, nor firm prac- tical materials, but can shimmer forth onto the brightly lighted danc- ing floors, all one gleam of sequins. Perhaps her self-expression will de- + mand the bouffant folds of taffeta, with tight bodice and above it gayly flung bobbed hair. Then again she| may elect to stun all beholders with the severity and bold simplicity of black velvet. This Season's Contribution Each year a number of smart and| quite tailored dresses are designed. The business woman finds her daily| costumes amongst these, knowing as she does, that her clothes must be more severe in line and cut, than those worn at home. Such dresses are so very good looking that many of our feminine friends enjoy them, other than those of the office. Slip-over styles are to dominate, they tell us. A straight silhouette will result, although fullness will be| mtroducvd in large pleats at the sides,) over the hips. For materials poiret twill and trie- otine will be favorites. Many of the wool dresses will be piped with silk. Variety is especially noticeable in sleeves. ‘Some will be short, above the elbow. Others will be long, fair- I{be flung over one’s shoulder. Rus- sion blouse openings also will be used, buttening up on the side and high on the shoulder. Krimmer and Caracul fur are fa- |vorites, and in materials duvetyns, Isoft woolens and veldeens. One ma- terial for a coat is the rule, with |b raided collar or sometimes fur band- ing. One of the interesting styles for fall had a braided panel over the shpulders, reaching down to the front pockets under the belts. Two narrow belts crossed each other and buttoned. A high collar protected the neck, and two braided panels des- cended from the pointed yoke. A semi-raglan sleeve was also braided, as well as the deep cuff. Armther of the coats showed a iraglan effect. Its high collar was of squirrel as well as its cuffs, which boasted a band of the same fur. It opened on the side with bound button- holes and many, many buttons. One striking feature of this coat was the treatment of the pockets. These were long slashed affairs, not hori- \zon!dl but upright, bound with ar- | row heads at either end. 'Each had a line of buttons traveling its full length. | An unusual sleeve distinguished this smart model. Rows upon rows of braid descended its length to the cuff. A panel of braid made its presence known and the belt doubled itse!f and then buttoned. A tailored model in soft marvella cloth held to a simple style with a circular skirt. Its high crush collar fastened above a side opening. Deep cuffs and stitched plain panels were the other features. Among the suits, fur collars are popular and also long coats. * One of |these wore a deep shawl collar of squirrel reaching almost to its deep Iwaist line in front. Pockets stood {out over the hip tucked and button- 'ed. Apphque(l panels -in the back {ended in tassels. A novelty cuff with {a single large button finished the | sleeve. | Trimmings for Suits | Another attractive suit model in | velour de laine had an interesting col- lar. This was a crush affair of fur {and cloth, making a scarf to be flung lover the shoulder. At the back wide | braid below the beit went up over the |shoulder and down the side front making a distinct change from the| usual. As with others, it double bolt- ed itself and wore deep braided cuffs. | Buttons, large and square, are dis: tinctive on this year’s suit. What will be the mood of the af- ternoon dress? Will it flutter gay- ly and brightly, or will it demurely subdue its colors and lines? More About Trimmings Bead trimming is more concen- trated as to pattern and tends to ac- cent the lines of the dress. Ruffles of taffeta cleverly fringed by fraying the material are also used.” Rosettes and flowers of the material of the d are appliqued for decoration there Some eyelet embroidery is seen. Garnet thread is often used to embroider navy bluc. Canton crepe of a finer variety is popular among the fall materials and |: also georgettes and taffetas. Taffeta is the great favorite. Evening dresses this year will be filmy with wide laces. And praise be, the colors are to have it their own way. Dyed laces in ccru, grey, yel- low, raspberry, and orchid will add to the fairylike quality of the party frock. For.the youthful, bouffant taffeta in_gay colors- makes an appropriate setting. Trimmings on these are usu- ally appliqued fruits. . But to return to laces. Cascades of lace trail their filmy taffeta bo- dices with charming effect. Over a chiffon drop, a single full skirt of lace will fall, for the direct purpgse of intriguing the beholder. A softly draped lace neckline was roses, jnoticcable on some of these costumes while others wore long loose sleeves of lace. Generally, dresses for "the ball ruffles andlcnrefully omit sleeves, occasionally they are careless enough to let a nar- row .band .of taffeta cross the upper arm. But, s ttange to say, thh these sleeveless gowns.are many high necks. A fitted round ‘effect is the usual treatment. Apparently the very low down-to- the-waistline back is to ‘be omitted. Let those who were shocked at our past season’s frocks take!hope. . Sports costumes 'this fall are self- .complete wardrobe, serve sympathy. FRIDAY EVENING, SEPTEMBER 9, 1921 expressive as all our other autumn moods. Black and white are com- bined in many, many ways. Sleeve- less jackets for the early scason are great favorites. Smart Sports Outfits A three-piece suit in jersey seems especially wearable. A straight slip- over jersey dress comes in jade, grey, rose and black. With this the sim- ple hand-made blouse is appropriate with its fresh collars and cuffs. To the cestume a sport jacket 1z color offers its soft com- Jjust where s hand wi'l ca ly find them, A cater with a plaid skirt makes a pleasant combination. Because of their gay bright colors, sports things are so very attractive. If among the wonderfully designed and beautifully colored clothes of- fered this fall, you cannot select a exactly fitting your perscnal needs, you are indeed an unhappy woman. You do not de- But you are rare. Most of us will find ourselves cmrect‘y and smartly gowned in this year’s frocks, fitting as they so perfectly do, the every need of the busy day of the modern woman. — An Eye Test by Ear. Apropos of the oral method of in. struction at present in vogue, a bach- elor professor in one of the San Fran. cisco medical schools tells a story on himself in connection with a clinic pa- tient turned over to hini for an eye ex- amination, Doctor Blank put the chart on the wall and commanded a small and shrinking six-year-old to read what he saw on it. The child began painstakingly with a strange assortment of grunts and hisses. “Guh! Buh! Tuh! Br-rrll " Here the doctor interrupted. “No, no!” he commanded impatient- 1y. “Don’t make those sounds! Just read—read what’s up there.” The little boy looked grieved and be- wildered, and evidently decided he was not putting enough steam into his per- formance. “Duh!” he ejaculated explosively. “Puh? Kuh! U-rorr!” The poor child was red in the face, azd the doctor about to hand him over to the office nurse to be taken down to the neurological clinic as a probable idiot. when the mother gently inter- fered and enlighiened the ignorant bachelor., Her little one had been taught to read by the phonetic method. German House Pipes in Demand. The:early German “house pipes” are much prized by collectors. They are of formidable size, some of them hold- Ing as much as a pound of tobacco. These .pipes are usually of porcelain, beautifuily molded and decorated. T TR L [T } [ I I IlliflI[[I]]II]III]II]II[[IHI lIlIJII[lIIIII]]flJIJJ T T I T A I PER 20 New Fal $55. lllustratmg How Stop at this rack if expert in simplicity. which quite overshado ture. Fur CO& ts CENT Featuring the Gordon Furs Offered in Sterling Quality and = Style at This Price a suit that proclaims itself the work of an or untrimmed, these suits have long, ly cut coats, the dignified tailored lines of Ot I Suits 00 Much Can Be you are looking for Whether [trimmed severe- w every other fea- New' Fau Dresses. $25 ONE LOT OF FIFTY DRESSES — ALL THIS SEA- SON’S MODELS HANDSOME- LY TAILORED OF CANTON CREPE, TRICOTINE, BO T- ANY SERGE, POIRET TWILL AND COMBINATIONS— YOUR CHOICE : at ’ Our Anniversary Sale OUR FIRST ANNIVERSARY SALE ENDS SEPTL2 | S OUR BIRTHDAY SALE HAS BEEN A SUCCESS, SO FAR—And we want" ever; = Bungalow = Aprons |Woman and Miss, whe care about style and saving opportunities, to come in and view ou: | Biack, brown = = $%§g showing of this Season’s Newest Ready-to-Wear. Prices have been purposely reduced fo; | 0 "~ - = $1. this occasion. % $1.00 = =] = A SALE OF = D TE T e m ‘SILK HOSE U [ I I (I They are the kind of suits that - will not scon go out of fashion, and that, however long they arc ly wide, in kimona style. As a rule, Regardless of the brilliant tones set-in sleeves will predominate. This|worn by the leaves in the fall of the| seagon' wili show us some circular|year, the afternoon dress chooses the skirts. Hems will be scalloped again,|more soembre colors. Among these $25 sometimes contrasting both as to col- or and ‘cloth. Skirts will be about ten or twelve inches from the floor. The hosiery manufacturers will be glad, we pre- sume, that they are not to lengthen greatly Tnmmmgs will be more delicate this year in tracery embroideries in narrow braid and chain stitch. Ac- centuating the lines of a garment will be their chief duty. Coats and suit coats are characterized by length this autumn. Coats will reach to the hem of the dress, elaborately braided and em- idered. A low waste line will be b »xlthesble and also narrow belts. Scarf collars with tassels are de- putty is the gayest—though would one call it gay?—while navy blues, dark browns and French grey also) appear. Dark grey is another good| color. One brown tunic skirt had gus- sets of rust set in, as if it weren’t content to stay too subdued. Trimmings are interesting and va- rious. Moire ribbons, beaded effects, | and rosettes and ruffles of the mate- rial are some of these. Moire ribbon is put on in fascinat-| ing clusters of tabs about four inch-! Georgette, Crepe de Chene, hand-made Lin- gerie Blouses, values to $7.50; some slightly soiled—priced for quick selling at es long, peeping from under tucks. A its hem. horizontal. Generally the trimming i georgette dress boasted a deep band| of these tabs, all set on in rows at (E $3.95 worn, will be dressy. S R P BLOUSES $3.95 Wi LSON 2.C YOUR CHOICE Of any Spring Suit or Coat at a big saving— || A (I B M, [ T