Bemidji Daily Pioneer Newspaper, January 8, 1920, Page 7

”lee that it is the sort of thing that fliphces. The further the season ad “'lhave .trailed into years the straight 7 vignugly all the way downi¥; .{ave-as short as they were at the fall ,Lms of Gowns. Strainht Instead : ot ‘Puffed Out; According to Edgct TFETA_ GROWING W VR P.pul.rny of Fabrla Indicates That It AVill.Be Favorite for Spring Wear; ¥ Guaranteéd to Give Rea- Service. | ‘The latest fashion In Paris—to [which the eyes of persons interested in dress persist in turning’in spite of iwhat America now has to offer of ’m own—include many. useful hints to ithe woman who has still to think of ;winter clothes, states.a’ leading fash- on correspondent. In the first place, aris fashions are apt fo indicate what our fashions will be a season or two hence, and, in-these days of the high leost of everything, if one must buy la frock now, it Is only good sense to its to be instead of what has been or 18 ceasing to be. . One important assertion from a [Paris fashion authority is that the lines of the gowns that the Parisians have accepted for the winter are fitralghc instead of being puffed out in vances, she states, the more evident it becomes that the pannier silhouette i not so popular, at least in Paris, as it was expected it might be. For an ‘astonishing number of seasons that isilhouette has been the thing in Paris, iand it looks as though the French oman is determined to hang on to :a mode which so well becomes her. i © Keeping Clear of Extremes. . 'The Parislan, too, in her dressing is keemng clear-of any extremes in fash- She has always done this more or less. and she*ls still holding to the rule that her style once discovered imust be clung to rather than changed imerely for change's sake. The straight silhouette seems to suit the majority iof them. They all love it ‘and keep jon ‘wearing it. .We in this country .are taking up the style more and more a8 time goes on. Within fts limita- fions there are many variations possi- -ble. An infinite variety of the gowns jean be designed without depending ' jupon the idea of straightness. Sleeves In Paris are still short--very ghort, in fact—there being no disposi- ition to halfway measures. If they ijare mot very short, they are long and d‘ht and reach over-the hands, fitting Skiits; too, openings, which means not almost knee length, as they were. in.the summer, but |8.xo0d 11 or 12 inches from the ground ‘w hem. {’.Coats are medium length and are itimmed sparingly -with fur. Some- ‘Dn- of Black Taffeta and Monkey i Fur From Madeleine et Madeieine. |times the fur is used to give a slightly !gn‘uenud hip~line as it finishes the llmur edge of & coat. Then again it 1s employed only for a tiny cellar fit- ting the neck sougly. Trimming In Moderation. | The trimmings on the Parisian mid- {winter frocks are gorgeous and beau- tiful, but rather sparingly used. Littfe strips of gilded trimming edge necks and sleeves In clever fashion, end sometimes these edges are repeated on lpocket flaps or on the edges of long {slit pockets. Fringe is almost extinct, but there are bits of it seen on the wnds of flapping panels or to trim the abbreviated evening skirt of an other- {wise tightly fitting gown. Embroidery is more fashionable than ever, though {when the French do it they lean, espe- iclally just now, to rather inconspicu- ‘ous strips rather than to large and ‘heavy banding. Taffeta is fast growing in favor, -and every day from the couturiers icome new models .made of this mate- *the popularity of taffeta’ for spring Awvear in our own country. Taffetas mow are soft and pliable, and they are guaranteed, too, .to wear reasonably well, so'‘that:the purchase of them does not mean the taking of apy very daspente chances. ’.One'of the very latest of taffeta mod- els18 from- Madeleine et Madeleine, a house which is the recent rage of Paris. i|'stripes across the front are little tucks run in by fine hand stitches. Then there is a plaited frill of the taffeta about the neck, tied with a ribbon woven in bright green and gold threads. The overskirt, low in front and high at back, Is edged with a deep fringe of monkey fur. The sleeves in this | vyt Mabel Head, director of Town and model are short and puffed. The Parisian Waist Line. . The basque on this frock is one of the new decrees of Paris.” It does not reach as low a line as basques of the past few months have done. Street Frock of Black Velours. Skirt and Bodice Piped in Faille. It drops just an inch or two below the normal waist llne and fits rather snugly into the waist where it wrinkles slightly at the sides.' All the Paris reports received in the last few weeks state that this is growing to be the waist line more and more accepted by Parisians themselves, Another new French taffeta gown is made in shades of taupe, dark and light. The foundation skirt, 4 little bit fuller at the sides than it is at the back and front, is made of the darker ehades and so are the little, tight, short .sleeves. - Then' there is one- of -those basque waists:that:have just been:de- scribed. This is made of the lighter shade, as are also the straight panels which fall over the skirt at back and front. There is an embroidered medal- lon on the front of the bodice at the waistline and one on each of the lower ends of the panels, this being done in threads of the darker shade of taupe Plaited ‘taffetas and satins™ and serges continue to be created and worn to a large extent in Paris. There are plaited skirts with plain basques, and there are whole plaited dresses in taf- feta with only a fold of the dress's material at the neck to finish the thing off. Modest Evening Dresses. Evening dresses in Paris are, ac- cording to reports, taming their ways very materially. Recently at a huge reception where all of the smart peo- ple in Paris were gathered the evening gowns were of the simplest and most unradical type. In spite of all that bhas been heard of the low back or nothing at all in the back mode, the necks were only moderately low. -The skirts were only moderately short. Sashes of all sorts and descrip- tions are important parts of the later season evening gowns. They are used by the French literally to make a gown, for on the lines of the sash, the color and the manner of arrangement depends the effect of the finished cre- ation. On a black charmeuse evening gown, interestingly draped to follow ‘the line of the figure, a wide sash made of cloth of gold is wound about the low waist line, tied in a huge knot at the left side back and its ends lined with golden chiffon and tipped by weighty gold tassels hanging almost to the hem of the garment. Indeed, one end hangs below the hem. Charming French Hats. French hats for the mid-season are as plain as ever and so charming that 1t is hard to tell just why. For one reason they manage to fit the wearer as an adjunct to her features and as an accent to the other parts of her at- tire. The little, draped turbans that turn away from the face and slouch over the ears are the popular favorites, One of the draped velvet hats pe- culiarly French in the way it carries out the lines of the face is In dark blue and has for its trimming two bunches of a few coque feathers each, and they stream out over each ear in the most unstudied and careless fash- fon. Draped oriental turbans made of the most gorgeous of old and new brocades are much in demand. Some times they have things hanging over one side, following the line of the neck, and sometimes they are entirely plain. But they are done in the most inter- esting tones and colors, never garish,- irlal. 'This' would seem to indicate | but always carrying out exquisitely the genieral character of the costume with which they are worn. r—— The color is black and the | Aggociation Maintains 52 Town "selfishly and unstintingly, through Red with some gold threads. intermingled. {{ most astonishingly. 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