Bemidji Daily Pioneer Newspaper, January 10, 1919, Page 3

FRIDAY EVENING, JANUARY 10, 1919 QUICK CHANGE IN - Women Must Catch Ideas Quick- ly or They Will Be Lacking in_Fashion. - NEW DECOLLETAGE IN VOGUE Queen Elizabeth and Queen Anne Are Sponsors, for the Neckline Now In . Favor—Delta Becoming for Evening Wear, New York.~—It is time to change & few things in women's apparel, asserts a prominent fashion authority. Wom- en are leaping from uniforms into medieval gowns of gold, and crystal, and: tulle in brilliant colors, and into smashing furs and red street apparel. .new decolletuge which.was prophesied in this department weeks ago and .which {8 coming Into view as smart women exploit it. Half a dozen new ways of. cutting the neckline have leaped Into existence and a dozen new collars claim the blue ribbon of ex- cellence. © No matter whether we dress differently about -the hips and feet, we are dressing decidedly differently about;the neck and even the wrists. . It fs-in these significant changes that the great mass of women are in- terestéd who do not.feel that they can afford.entirely new gowns for the mid- season. +The,artist-who said that all changes in fashions for women consisted in the placement of the bulge, or the ab- V.shaped decolletage in back of a black velvet evening gown whigh is cut high in front. This idea Is worked out in many types of gowns, eyen, those. for. street. Delta decolletage shown in new brocade evéning gown in white and gold. This neckiine originated in thesElizabeth ‘sence of it, should have added that the| hugs the side; of; the ‘open spaces in costumes were second in, importance. Cut .to the bone, there is no doubt that he was right. The contour is the thing. It is where a garment goes in. or out that determines its fash- fon.. Few women there are who are brave :enough to go against the contour of the hour, even though it may not suggest the best there is in their figures. New Decolletage. The change in the neckline is per- haps the most important to the aver- age woman. She has belief in herself . when it comes to cutting a new Kkind of neckline. She feels that a good pair of scissors may be the medium of. transforming an old gown into a new gown by the simple process of turn- ing an oblong neck into a round one, a square one, or a U-shaped one. All history is filled with rapid changes in the neckline, and so-far we have not had anything new. We have Tung the bells of history all over again. That is all. When Edward II was king of England the women wore the geor- gette, which wrinkled about the neck and spread outward over the chin and the back of the head. This was intro- duced to fashion a few years ago through a dancer and her clever de- gigner. It is still worn by women who go motering, and they make it of dark blue crepe or veiling, rather than of white satin. When Richard II was king his French queen brought over the . fashion of the low neck, and so, after }centufles. women dropped the neck- :=hand of the gown from chin to collar ~bone. When Elizabeth was queen of Eng- land the delta dacolletage was invent- ed, and it ran along with another neck- line that exposed all the chest and half . the shoulders, and then, as If by a sudden spasm of prudery, hid the neck | and ears by an immense ruff, When James I came to the ; throne of England his queen intro- duced the very decollete, tight bodice with its immense, flaring collar of wired lace at the back, and when Charles I allowed Henriette of France to lead the fashions for There are significant changes work!] ing up from the ground, There is the his court, there was tue low, round Immerse in benzine and go over @ meckline that dipped well downward Vf'!tb 8 brush, in the back and was fi deep vandyke collar that extended over the sleeves, In the picturesque days of Queen Anne women introduced’ the_ low,. square cut decolletage, gulltless of col- lar, which our women have worn for two decades; and in the middle of the. elghteenth century, 'in the Georgian | era, women used a simple decolletage in a rounded V outlined with a wrinkled handkerchief . as & part ‘of. their street attire. YiE 2 Running the d over . ; slight summary of hls::‘rlllul chm:% Inéfin decolletage, it is easy to see'that we | have done nothing new; but here.is what we are going to do at the imme- diate moment: Revive tl:(eé delta_of the Elizabethan times, the deep, i of Queen Anne, wlth'lhzl, tuhm line at-the side of the neck, a U-shaped decolletage. of .the, end. of. KNEW NOTHING OF WAR UNTIL PEACE Aged.-Woman Now Wants to Pun- ish Kaiser. Because of Her Age, Eighty-Nine Years, Her Son Did Not Tell Her of Great Conflet, but When Peace Cal; ebration Ocourred It Was Impossi- b s Kopg MiantzoTall. of & Wronge. Perpetoated en_the P medieval . seyerity in the is; th nysuAl ‘record. of ‘Mrs, Women haye’alded nature wh gertfi’e s:.n,bl“filgfiy lln,l ¥ them. ugly or, cheated; ngture. which.| G¢ ¥ '§ ,now living in Ne made theni beautiful by ‘going abgut | ¥ Her..age. kept. her.'son. from without ‘any, softening effgét at the | 'telling hep , the horrors of the in- neck, by wearing coat-collars.of heavy. "fim“ E; %olz'fim ;!ndfl?én ;1_: sinklng homespun unrelieved by te, and by,| of the Lu , He wish her | the use of v-m;’:d lines: «heavy'vgl» ‘to W x{;{?x:lfl:‘tr:;, tl;; i veteen.and crepe. which. fashion. k; the, day. peage. demon- unadome?i: ; m PR Fo stration ?Jfide it impossible” to keep True to history, this, was, byt.ngt | silent. The old .lady hesrd the teus 1o art, - Thah mmwgg.w bz J:ll'ltles blowing . and.’ the crowds who looked their best in such sever- | cheering, and she demanded to know ity. Today collars returp slowly. what- it was .all--about. . When they. told her she raised fier hands in a ges- ture of imprecation and, said: There are still those who tell you they are mot smart, byt at the 1 “Oh, it only I could get these two hends’og that kalperI” exclusive house ,there is a .tendency to put precious lace on the new neck- tha £ Oppressive Taxes. . Mrs. Spandau lived in Richen- line. It is not &, V-shaped neckilne; walde, which is a Ifttle town of about,| it is a deep U which calls for a soft- ening” outline, and an extremely soft t mmme. According to her de- on and that, of her son it 1A, arrangement of lace or tulle across the : al .:l%& like the'German towns that you. bust. o The Queen’ Anne decolletage which M used to see on the stage In the days they were banlshed from it, 3 “;gere were carved wooden houses and storks and narrow streets and a town hall and a belfry with a sweei-toned But this was not all. There were taxes to be-pald, and. when yon have six; children German taxes are noth- to be muk!‘ned at. If you cannot y ‘them an. officer. or an under offi- ‘cer comes into the - house and{’ looks over all’ your things. If you haye two clocks, says Mrs. $pandau, ~|.0r: two tables or even two._chairs, the tax officers take one of them., They | 'hold. them for a few days and then if | you still- do not-pay, the things are sold at auction and you may be sent to |- prison. : If your children are not sent to “| 'school, ‘and 1t is not always easy to *I"do " this when. there is _nothing" for them to eat, you or your husband may be set to work .for.the govern- _|ment,. breaking.stones..or .chopping |- wood, and again you may be sent to . prison. ; [ Not a Happy Life. - |- Besides this, ‘Mrs. Spandau said, /|-her. husband. was & German soldler. Evidently, even fn those days, a Ger- ‘man soldier did not have a happy life. rs. Spandau, spid. he was in such fear of the government that he made her promise, before he died, that none of his five sons would éver wear the -gray uniform. ‘They never did, Sol Spandau. explajned, though. there is a ew wearing the United States uni- £6rm, over in Erance. 1 Mrs. Spandan was disgusted by the kaiser’s flight to Holland. She asks what have the kaiser-and.his six sons done_that they draw. a salary of 6,000,- 000 marks from the day they are born, while other bables have to work for thejr living. And who pays for all the richness but the German peo- iple2” ; t.“No. one,” sald Mr. Spandau, the son, “has been more patriotic than die matter. She says: that she is sorry Abhat_her sons are all too old to go and that her grandchildren are al deughters. 5 CHINESE MADE EASY New. Phonetic Writing Enables Illiter. ates to Learn In Month. China has adopted a system of pho- nétic writing which Is expeeted to rev- olntionize elementary education of that nation and reduece existing illiteracy, it wus announced at New Haven. Conn., by Eawin C. Lobensteine, who has been in conference with the Yale-in-Ching home office. “'he system invented by the Chinese themselves, and spproved by the gov- ernment board of education at Peking. coysists, of unly'th{rly-nine symbols Any sound in the language can be rep- resented by combinlng two or at the most ‘three of these symbols, and ex-| periments made with hundreds of In:}’ dividuals have conclysively shown that an adult illiterate man or woman can learn'to read hy the hsq of a system of this kind in three or four weéks. It 18 now being taught in all the govern- ment higher 'normal schools in the country. days. eck and runs down into a narrow L-shaped opening is extremely smart, and it 1§ banded with fur and then filled in with fine folds of silk net. . s It is felt by those who have thelr hands on the pulse of fashion,that the oblong neckline of, the. Renaigsance {s |/ no longer smart, although' it is worn by some well-dressed women., - Double Néckline, o There is a disposition on the part of some designers to make a double neckline, and, this they do by, a subtle arrangement of thin fabrics. A cer taln~ designer has mqu out a re markably brilllant. gown of raspberry chiffon ‘having a deep U-shaped decolletage. outlined with chinchilla which “swings the chiffon - with the movement of the figure, as though™it were a necklace. Benpeath.it, and hug- ging the, bust. in_the_eighteepth .cens tury manner, is a bodice with a round- ed decolletage, There will be an oplong neckline that reaches from shoulder to shoulder, cut on a tight satin bodice, and over that will be swung & looser bodice of colored chiffon or tulle which is high at the back and naa' a long, rounded line in front that drops to the walst. Black and seal brown velvpt after-, noon gowns have the Queen Anne dec. olletage, which follows the exact line where the neck Is placed on the body, until it gets to the.coflar bone, where it dips into a straight, opén ce half way to the waist. This is outlined with fur. Again, it may be outlined with Venetian point. The delta decolletage is cansidered the most becoming of “all for, evening wear. Get out any picture of Eliza- bethan times and you will see, what is meant. In that gorgeous the women wore a jeweled plece of open net over the shoulder to the base of the neck at each side, and then the decolletage spread downward and out- ward to the arm-pits. " Take this change In the neckline seriously. It will govern the clothes of the next few weeks. (Copyright, 1918, by McClure Newspaper Syndicate.) ssance Mining Town Eveless. The old mining town of Derrick, Cal., | high up in the Trinity county moun- tains, g today as Eveless as the North poleg.. The only woman who lived there hag departed for Sacramento to spend the roughest part of the winter, and does not expect to return until the rob- ins nest ifi the spring. Auto_for Rastor. The ancient custom af “donation par- tleg:' or “pound parties,” ete., his been 51, nted by the mémbers of the Bap- tist Tabernacle of Aflanta, G, who have just presented their pastor, Rev. John W. Ham, with & new six-cylinder ‘Sutomobite. To remove smoke stains from fivory, THE: BEMIDJI'DAILY PIONEER T A ———————————————————— . “Judge, he hasn't worked for about six months,” testified an elderly wom- an In city court recently. testifying against her son, age seven- teen, who had been arrested on a charge o! vagrancy. oW “d0es he “spend his lelsurg time?”" asked.the prosecutor. “Sleeping,” was the reply. When the boy took the stand he dey nled that he had been out of employ ment for six months, and said .hf mother had erred as to the iength of | time, as the last work he did wag “about four and one-half months ago.* “How many hours a day do yot sleep?” which the defendant replied that he didn't “sleep ail the time but just when he felt like it. ! “Ever been in jal}?” eaid the judge. ? a. few dayg’ work on the roads, will. do and costs, and you can la® It out in | Jall."—Indlapapolis News. According to 'the ‘camp poster at amp. Lewis, Awerican Lake, Wash., camp record blanks were found lnsuff-| H . g clent to accommodate. the 'address of , ; § an Australian ‘who came {ndirectly .- ) i | ! ' assuming name of the individual, Llan- tnlrpwllgjvypzyllogogogoch Jn the coum ty of Anglesey, North Wales, he jotned-the-wrmy he held a resi~ | [T TN TN TN AT O e TR R AT e T O T o LT T dence at Waenarlwgdd, Swansea road, ¥ 11 Goverton, South, Wales, TheTruth --instance when .up the dearly loved cup of » ~.lows however PAGE THREE Regular Hours Now, OUR COAL STOGK NOW ADEQUATE For Stoves and Furnaces ‘ _———————— Anthracite, Nut, Stove, Egg and Buckwheat Pocohontas and Anthracite Briquettes : Hocking Screened Lump West Virginia Splint Youghiogheny Lump and Stove Coke—Nut, Stove and Egg Sizes She was asked ~ Judge Pritchard, tc the elghteenth century, with ita by Government Officlals., “No esty plece of lage. £ ¢ T “Well, they lave regular h B Return of Lace Collars. To have ltved through the great Warj .. e .o ors v haiie BY 3 ours; - g Jare # that golng on | | el ere an elieve regular hours We haye. gone through. and nof JAhat it was | Pl QUR COKE IS THE CLEANEST AND HOTTEST FUEL QBTAINABLE you good. T will Bz vou $18 swn«‘s‘ Name! ° Phone 100 When b DVIET IIT153 L B A % o Good for the Whole Family “Granzy” Chamberlain , “A good cough remedy is one that can be depended upon to cure coughs. Not one that cures some particular cough, but coughs in general, It must be a cough remedy that can be relied upon for all the different coughs that are so prevalent. While the causes of all coughs are primarily the same, yet the condition of the patient is what makes the difference in the nature of the cough itself. Coughs of healthy persons are easier to cure than the coughs of invaYids. ‘The ‘powerful convulsive cough of a large man is harder to cure than the cough of a baby. If you get a remedy that will cure a large man's cough and yet not be too powerful ** for the baby, you have a good cough remedy. Chamberlain’s Cough Remedy is just this kind of remedy. It is good for any member of the family. It relieves coughs of all kinds. It is the product of much thought and study to l;:ro::duceam ideal cough remedy. It iscom- posed of things which cure easily and soothingly without harm- ing the most delicate tissues of the throat. It acts as easily and Jel{ on the young as on the old, and is the ideal remedy,for coughs, colds, eroup, influenza, whooping cough and bronchitis.” is sometimes ainful. For ‘the doctor says one must give coffee.” 7., Happiness fol- when one finds out how s»» delicious and health making is the pure cereal drink INSTANT POSTUM Y HHHHHH I HEHHHE NUTMARGARIN /4 70752 4 75% :1007 15% $Hastins 0 PURE & DELICIOUS AT LEADING GROCERS | ‘MARKETS-DELICATESSENS NORTHERN COCOANUT BUTTER CO-MANUFACTTRERS - MINNEAPOLIS R P