Bemidji Daily Pioneer Newspaper, March 22, 1918, Page 7

v FRIDAY. MARCH 22. 1918 WOMEN'S APPAREL - AND WAR PERI0 No More Criticism Is Leveled at \ the Short, Narrow 3 Skirt.: CAPES AND -CORSLETS NEW Short Zouave Jackets That Show Bril. liant Sashes, And In Conservation Ky of Material, the Watchword in America and Paris. New York.—The conservation of wool is an established fact in France and America. It is a fact that will en- tirely change our conception of ap- +parel. f ; Silk will rule. The world has a sur- plus of other materials, it would seem, from statistics, and yet the foundation stone of conservation will extend throughout the fashionable clothes “for { the period of the war.” ! The fundamental idea of saving has ! 80 penetrated the consciousness of our i people, the propaganda is so wide- Y spread and vital, writes Aime Ritten- N\ L d « 3 - 3 - hea i d K Jersey frock for young girl. It is of | black and white silk jersey with bands of black velvet embroidered % in silver. There are long, loose sleeves. house, that the historian of the future will surely look with extraordinary in- terest upon the psychological change that took place in 100,000,000 people in eight months. There are changes in a nation that do not create surprise when they are thrust upon it by an invading army In war, but the change in America is one of spirit. There is money a-plenty, men by the millions, industries at full speed, and yet, with wealth and re- [ sources, 100.000,000 people have turned a somersault in their attitude toward material possessions. Slirn Little Clothes. ‘The passion for conservation wiped out of existence ‘the fashion for flow- ing robes made of plenteous material. Whenever a slim silhouette has been thrust into the fashions, whenever an extremely short and narrow skirt had been offered to women, critics galore have risen in their bickerings and de- nounced women as immodest, indecent and vain to the uttermost degree. There is no such bickering today, however. The critics of women’s clothes remain silent. A man looks appraisingly at a woman gowned in a conservation costume and nods his head in approval, as though she car- ried a flag. rt There {§ no more talk about inde- éficy. The talk hinges upon the pa- triotism shown in the slenderness of silhouette and in the scarcity of ma- terials won. Therefore, fashion and inational approval go hand in hand. Unless we are mockingly indecent and ‘there is no chance of that today, there is none to tise and call us outrageous. L The excessive decolletage of two ye {5‘4 ago would create a storm of pro- ‘-;gg il any public place. Giggling, painted woten with mere belts held over thelr shoulders by slipping B:’md; of rhinestones, woild be frowned down by men in khaki and by those in ci- villan clothes, t And yet womed may go on the "street, with skirt® so short and narrow that they ciosely resemble trousers, ‘and laced a¥my boots or puttees that reach wWell above the calf of the leg, and not a glance is given them that ex- /presges contempt or disapproval. The new suits in Paris, as well as |these that are launched in America, iShow these skirts. Some aré so nar- i¥ow that they might cause discomfort §i 1t were not that their shortness gave - gfreedom of movement. Coats are short when they belong ito suits. Army capes ripple down the 'fighre when warmth is meeded. The cape will be exceedingly smart this season, so you who have one of {these garments tucked in the closel 3 i i , 1 SRR 5k 41388 FPEr45 BoBRGVCESOrnTRRY e fan CydBECE. cd¢bfeqda BBV RESS ee———— ] mtnd it well, for in a few weeks you may be able to swing it on with the bravado adopted by all those women who are in war activities or would like to be. The Exaggerated Waistcoat. Capes, and long waistcoats that reach half way to the knees, are sub- stitutes for coats in the absence of suits, although the really smart thing is the Eton or the bolero jacket, as far ns the American fashions are con- cerned. The early French clothes sent to this country before the present exhibi- tions in Paris showed the short jacket cut much after the manner of those worn by the French soldiers in Al giers, and often supplemented by the ‘I brilliant’ scarlet or yellow sash or an Immense sdede belt pulled through sev- eral buckles in front. The Eton jacket is not for the wom- |. an with hips, however, and unless she has been able to reduce her figure to the proportions of a planked shad, it is wiser for her to look upon other models with more approval. There are short coats that hang straight from the shoulders to a finger length below the waist and are slightly belted in such a manner that the waist- line is casually defined. Because of its limitations, this short jacket cannot be the ruling fashion. Mone know that- better than the French artists, so they have sent over loose coats of silk poplin, and the American designers have turned out a new cape which reaches to the hips, is slim in outline and fastens at the ‘neck with a high rolling collar. The Revival of Lace. Stacting out with the foundation stone of the new Paris fashions, which are based on the conservation of other materials than wool, and remembering well that you must not bulge or flare or to provoke discussion as to your extravagance in the usage of fabric, then it is wise to go on to the minor adjuncts of fashion. . The revival of silk poplin is a bit of news that appeals to the majority of women. You know, this fabric makes admirable coat suits, and with the modern activity of aearly every woman in this country, there will not be such a wide demand as usual for trocks that need constant cleaning and laundering. The late =pring and summer will probably usher in, a vast array of women' dressed in silk poplin. Shan- tung, the ~thinnest gaberdine, salin and dark foulard. The tailored suit which is adopted by such numbers of women doing active relief work, has already set its impress upon the fashions, and it is quite probable, despite the talk of the dressmakers, that coat suits of silk poplin in black, beige, brown and blue will rise to unusual heights of popularity. Let us hope this may come about. Dinner gowns are of black, white and cream lace, and they are elabo- rately touched up with threads of sil- ver and gold. Scant lace flounces are draped over slim linings of satin and taffeta. NN T s ST | i | bt Gown worn at the Folies Bergere. It was exploited by Mile. Montvilie and (s of midnight blue satin with paillettes of satin. Note how it is caught at the ankles. Lace bodices will be returned: for usage under coat suity, and blouses that fall below the waist and are -gir- dled with vividly colored ribbons, will be added to suits of white flannel, matelasse and jersey. By the way, white flannel has sidled into the limelight. Palm Beach up- proves of it. Smart women say they like it better than jersey. Once upon a time, it was (the accepted summer garb of our leisure millionaire class of men, but we have no such class today, and the decks of yachts and other pleasure craft have been placed in the category of things that were. (Copyright, 1918, by the McClure Newspa~ ner Syndicate.) BEMIDJI DAILY PIONEER LADIES’ SUITS Ladies navy blue poplin suit, jacket full . silk lined and trimmed with 34 smoked pearl buttons, white silk pique collar, price $35.00 Ladies brown men’s serge suit, jacket full lined with soft silk, belted style strict- ly tailored, price $35.00 Ladies tan gabardine, silk lined suit, trimmed with buttons, 2 small pockets in jacket, finished with buttons, price $37.50 Ladies gahér!dine suits, tan and navy, full lined jackets. Price $35.00 SPRING SHOES The latest styles in dependable shoes, black, brown, grey, white and all the combinations of grey and .blnck, white and black, etc., a pair . $6 0 $13.50 1 Ty —t I If Your SuitorCoat Expenditurels limited,Come and Examine Our Exceptionally Fine Garments SPECIAL SALE OF WHITE WAISTS There are about 50 of these waists, all new spring styles, made from good material, we have an- other lot cn the road and do not need both lots, so offer this lot §115 Limit—Two waists to customer. LADIES’ & MISSES’ GOATS Ladies’ extra size co.ats. made from all wool serge and Chudda cloth, price $25.00 Ladies’ navy gabardine coat, trimmed with black silk, a belted garment, price $25.00 Ladies’ blue serge coat, a plain garment but full of value. Price $22.00 Misses’ Coat of Sammy velour, military style, a very charming garment. Price $28.50 Misses coat made from roekie poriet twill. Price T : e KID GLOVES . You should not delay selecting your Easter gloves. Kid gloves °- are very scarce, especially colors, we have a fair assortment of black and whites and a few colors, a pair A New Neckweaf at New Collars and Sets in Vogue Models plain, tailor, ripple back, Bolero, Eton, braid, bound and military models. Exclusive Women's & Misses’ Outer Apparel Phone 850 H.H. COMINSKY, Mgr. Bemidji DISTINCTIVE ASTER FASHIONS ‘ Women’s and Misses’ New ailored Suits NEW WAISTLINE AND TAILLEUR MODES Materials Tricotine, men’s wear serge, poirete, twill, More New Blouses $5.95 Worth More Colorings Belgian blue, Rookie pearl, Tan, navy and Delhi, Gabardines and poplins. Black. $25, $35, $45,$55 New Spring Coats Every type of model shown, loose fitted and belted models. $25 to $55 Many inclined to show the military idea. Materials are Arr_ny cloth, Jersey tweeds, Covert Crystal Cloth, Poiret twill and Silvertone. Easter Frocks | } Smartly Tailored Frocks. Beaded and hand embroidered. Geor- | gette, Taffeta, Crepe de Chine and Foulard materials. | | | | | $25, $30, $35, $40, $45 See what “Betty Wales” has to offer.