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REALWINTER DRESS Model That Will Look Well in Velvet or Velveteen. bulllon Designers Struggle Hard to |\ Retain Straight Line Frock Which Has Been Favorite for Past ' Two Seasons. / —_— ! To retain the straight line frock, mvhich has been such a strong favorite Kor the past two seasons and still make it new and distinctly of the 1917-18 vin- tage 18 a task that fashion designers bave struggled mightily with during two or three months. Many attractive ptyles have resulted, and perhaps an 8traight Line Frock of Velvet or Vel. veteen. ‘equal number that are not attractive, The ultra-tight skirt, on dresses in any event, 1s not approved, and comfortable fullness is let in either through the medium of plaits or gathers. The dress shown in the sketch would develop extremely well in velvet or velveteen, if it is to be a real winter dress. If for earlier wear velvet or velveteen might be used for the bodice section and the cuffs and crepe meteor or satin for the remainder of the frock. Or it might be developed in satin and serge. If the supply of black satin and navy blue serge holds out women need have no fear in regard to apparel for the coming season, as from present indica- tions these two are to be by all odds the most popular materials, The back of this dress is cut exactly like the front. The long pointed panel effect into which the bodice Is con- tinued is important in that it gives length of line to the finished frock. Touches of metal or colored embrold- ery trim the bodice, which fastens with small, decorative buttons in the center front. To make the dress one and a half yards of velvet or other material will be’ required for bodice and cuffs and four yards of any preferred material 36 inches wide for the gown proper. When consldering the cost of a dress or blouse on which embroider® 1s to appear a8 the trimming—if expense i3 a matter of moment—beads must be omitted. Beads have advanced in price from 100 to 400 per cent during the past few months, according to type of beads selected—that is, steel, chalk, glass, ete. Latest reports indicate their cost s still going up. However, fortunately, one can strug: gle alvng very well without bead em- Embroidery will undoubtedly be used to a great extent as a trimming the fall and winter season, but s braids are also favered, and pipin;ts in contrasting color or fabrie are béing used. Much Fur Next Winter. Nuch fur is to be used this coming winter in the up-to-the-minute ward- robe, though where all the skins are to come from has not been told us. There will be entire short coats of fur, bound around the hips in a2 new with knife-plaited or box-plaited skirts of cloth or velvet. One-piece gowns will have old-fash- foned dolmans of fur fitted across the front by broad straps that wrap around the waist. Capes of fur, lined with velvet or satin, will have deep waistcoats in front that hold them securely to the figure, and the skirt beneath will be plain or plaited. A Sports Skirt for Fall. A sports skirt shows red and gold stripes forming a plaid on a navy ground, light tortoise-shell buttons serving the double purpose of fasten- ing and decorating in unbroken row gown the fromt. Y Zor g wig =3 WHALERS AGAIN ARE I\(}'IF'IVEr Ancient Industry Has Undergone Note- worthy Revival in America in Last Few Years. News dispatches telling of the re- cent capture of three sperm whales by Grays Harbor hunters serve as a reminder that the ancient industry of whaling has undergone a noteworthy revival in the last few years. It is an interesting fact that this revival bas been due largely to the develop- ment of the battleship, one of the most modern creations of man. Hundreds of whalers from Ameri- can ports sailed the seas in the times before the Civil war, when whale oil was used for lighting. The discovery of petroleum caused a slump in the industry. Historic New Bedford and Nantucket became the boneyards of a once mighty fleet, and the race of bardy American mariners developed by whaling became almost extinct. The old romances passed into tradi- tion. But as ships, and particularly bat- tleships, grew in size and number it was found that for use in certain of the bearings in their ponderous en- gines there was nothing that would quite take the place of “case oil,” found in the head of the sperm whgle, which is strangely clear and does not disintegrdte under great pressure and heat. So whalers began to take the sea again. They are not so primitive as those of the older generation, but their cargoes are more than ever ip demand. BARBED WIRE A WAR FACTOR One of Peculiar Developments Is Use of American Product to Halt Armies’ Progress. The part that barbed wire has played in the war is reflected to some extent by the foreign commerce re- ports, says the St. Louis Globe-Demo- crat. This is peculiarly an American product, the Blidden invention having been first utilized on a large scale by John W. Gates at St. Louis. The de- scriptions from the front show the ef- fective use made of this simple inven- tion, which the late Senator Ingalls said wgs suggested by the manner in which the milk cows avolded bramble bushes. It was woven and twisted Into a barrier that seemed impregna- ble until the British developed the use of artillery in such amazing fashion. The study of fortifications has been followed from the beginning of human history, and it is a singular fact that a sinmle fencing device, designed for an untimbered country, should surpass every other obstacle to the progress of & modern army. Lighting Methods Improved. The great development of lighting within the last ten years is made ap- preciable only when the results are shown in figures. It is well-known the introduction of the metal filament lamps has reduced the consump- tion of current for a given amount of light to one-half or one-third of what It was before, but ‘here has been also a great improvement in the durability of the new lamp. A French authority, A. Boutaric, has investigated the rec- ords of 1,234 lamps in 26 establish- ments. In 1908, only half of the metal filament lamps withstood as much as 200 hours of usage, but in 1914 not less than 968 per cent endured for that length of time, and the percentage of those having a life of 1,000 hours had risen from 31.5 to 80. Besides their carbon lamps, the French were mak- ing 30,000,000 metal filament lamps yearly as the war began, the prospect being a large increase on the returo of peace. Marooned on an lsland. David Grootch, n stenographer of Jonesboro, Ark., who was found on a small island in the Shoshone river near Cody, Wyo., told a weird story of hav- ing been marooned for 22 days on the {sland within sight of a wagon road over which people were 'constantly traveling. During this time he said his only nourishment was water, Grootch sald he had been working on a ranch near Cody and went to Cody for a visit. He set out for a walk to- ward the river when his memory left him. When he regained consciousness he found himself on the island, 200 rods below a wagon bridge. He could not swim and ite current was too swift for him to wade. Finally, Grootch said, he hecame so weak he could not stand, and lay helpless in the under brush until a passerby saw him. He Caught Them. “Tommie. you were absent from &chool yesterday.” said the teacher. “Yes'm,” answered the boy. “Father wanted me to go fishin’ with him.” “But don’t you know it would have been more profitable to have come to school ?” “Why, we wouldn’t have brought home a durn fish if I hadn’t gone along.” What He Would Advise. “Would you advise me to marry & woman for her money?” “T don't know, but I would advise you never to let a woman know you had married for her money.” Mildly Curious. “Let’s price these orchids.” “You don’t want any orchids.”™ “True, but I'd like to know if they still keep ahead of vegetables in price.” Sarcasm. “It's almost impossible to get dyes nowadays.” “Yes; I've noticed you bhaven'l @anged the color of your hair lately.! BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL A. V. GARLOCK, M. D. SPECIALIST EYE EAR NOSE THROAT Glasses Fitted Gibbons Bldg. Phone 105 DR. EINER JOHNSON PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON Bemidji, Minn. DR. J. W. DIEDRICH DENTIST Office O'Leary-Bowser Bldg. Office Phone 376-W Res. Phone 376-R DR. L. A. WARD PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON Troppman Block Bemidji, Minn. DR. J. T. TUOMY DENTIST North of Markham Hotel Gibbons Block Tel. 230 GRAHAM M. TORRANCE LAWYER Miles Block Phone 560 DR. E. H. SMITH PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON Office Security Bank Bleck DR. E. A. SHANNON, M. D. PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON Office in Mayo Block Phone 396 Res. Phone 397 DR. G. M. PALMER DENTIST Office Phone 124 Residence 346 Miles Block, Bemidji TOM SMART DRAY AND TRANSFER Safe and Piano Moving Res. Phone 58 818 America Office Phone 12 b IDA VIRGINIA BROWN Instructor in VOICE DBAMATIC " ART Phone 633 1017 Minn. Ave. PIANO Bemidji THORWALD LUNDE CHIROPRACTOR Acute and Chronic Diseases han- lded with great success First National Bank Building Bemidji, Minn. Phone 406-W Hours 10-12 a. m.; 2-5 7-8 p. m. DR. C. R. SANBORN PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON Office—Miles Block J. WARNINGER VETERINARY SURGEON Office and Hospital 3 doors west of Troppman Store Phone No. 209 DR. H. A. NORTHROP OSTEOPATHIC PHYSICIAN AND SURGEON Suite 10, O’Leary-Bowser Bldg. Office Phone 153 —_— 1 S — Hair dressing, manicuring, face massage, scalp treatment, switches made from combings $1.50. Corns, ingrown nails treated a specialty. MINA MYERS 311 6th St. Phone 112-W W. K. DENISORN, D. V. M. VETERINARIAN Office Phone 3-R Res. 99-J 3rd St. and Irvine Ave. DRS. GILMORE & McCANN PHYSICIANS AND SURGEONS Oftice—Miles Block DR. D. L. STANTON DENTIST Oftice in Winter Block TUSETH SCHOOL OF MUSIC Teachers of VIOLIN, PIANO AND BAND INSTRUMENTS Phone 683-W 116 3rd St. THE DAILY PIONEER receives wire service of the UNITED PRESS ASSOCIATION HUFFMAN & O'LEARY FURNITURE & UNDERTAKING H. N. McKEE, Funeral Director PHONE 178-W or R RAGS Bring us your clean cot- ten rags--no buttons, bands or woolen cloth accepted. Pioneer Office OWN A Woods!tock It is a better typewriter Guaranteed for 2 years. MODEL 4 MODEL 5 $68.00 $100.00 $5 down, $5($5 down, $3 per month per month. CASH PRICE SOME LESS Bemidji Pioneer Phone 922 " gat a Nickle Plate Has your car a Bemidji em- blem? The Pioneer car has on the front of its radiator a neat nickle plate emblem design. The words BEMIDJI COMMERCIAL CLUB are neatly outlined. It shows that the local club is a mem- ber of the American Automo- bile Association and should be on every car in town. Order one from'the secretary of the Auto Club. Price 75¢. A Sign of the Best Tickets and Information from J. J. PEARCE, Agent Bemidji A. M. CLELAND, Gen’l Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn. Pineapple Jell The flavor is madefrom fresh ripe fruit, It comes sealedin & vial, so it keeps. The fla- wvor from half a ripe pineapple goes into a gin- They meet the most exact- ing requirements of girls gouig to college. The shoes illustrated here are absolutely correct in style. They have medium low heels, are splendid walking shoes and very comfortable. This store is featuring shoes for young people. Bemid;ji Shoe Store 315 Minn. Ave. Phone 172 W Specializing in Selz Shoes _ The-Town l!larket Furniture Co. PRICE. WRECKERS on New and Second Hand Furniture, Stoves, Rugs We Can Save You Money. Cor. 2nd St. and Minn. Ave. THE PIONEER ADS PAY The New Styles Are Here The new season has brought out new beauties in shoes. There are stunning effects never before thought of—color harmonies to please the eye and artistic lines to make more charming the choicest frocks. Utz & Dunn designers seem to have vied with nature herself in the use of fascinating shades. There are little mysterious touches of the shoe artist’s handiwork in these Style Shoes of Quality which will help you to be more modishly attired. Step in and ask us to show you what is in vogue, as we have just received several hundred pairs by express. Select a pair while we still have your size, in the style you desire. Knapp’'s Shoe Store Beltrami Ave. Bemidji, Minn M